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I N FORMATION 


AND 

DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS 

ON THE 

CONTINENT. 


/ 

BY MARIANA STARKE. 


FIFTH EDITION, 

THOROUGHLY REVISED, AND WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS. 


JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 



MDCCCXXIV. 






LONDON: 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES, 
Northern bertand-cout f 







ADVERTISEMENT. 


AS some of the public prints have announced a circumstance vefy 
alarming to Travellers, namely, that disbanded soldiers, "converted into 
banditti, infest the post-roads of the south of France, the Alps, Apen- 
Yiine, and countries bordering tin those mountains, especially the con¬ 
fines of the Roman and Neapolitan territories situated between Terracina 
and Mola-di-Gaeta; it may not, perhaps, be superfluous to mention, 
that all the above-named countries, except the tract between Terracina 
and Mola, are now, and have long been, exempt from so serious an 
evil. Highway robberies, indeed, are quite as uncommon on the Con¬ 
tinent at present, as they were formerly; and with respect to the ban¬ 
ditti who have recently infested the confines of the Roman and Neapo¬ 
litan territories between Terracina and Mola, they are not merely a 
troop of robbers who plunder, because they have no other means of 
subsisting, but a whole nation, the people of Abruzzo, who, when at 
variance with the Pope and the King of Naples, sometimes raise con¬ 
tributions upon Roman and Neapolitan Travellers going post , but with 
Voiturins these freebooters appear to be in perfect amity, as persons 
who travel en voiturier are never attacked: and English Travellers, 
even when going post, have rarely been robbed, unless owing to im¬ 
prudence on the'ir own part, or on that of their attendants. 



*** Any Corrections, or suggestions for the improvement of this Work, 
will be thankfully received by the Publisher. 


t 


INTRODUCTION. 


I submit the Fifth Edition of the following- Work to the Public, 
under a new Title, and much diminished in size ; though considera¬ 
bly augmented with respect to useful information ; as it contains a 
full and faithful account of all the large towns and post-roads in the 
most frequented parts of the European Continent; (many of which 
roads are only just finished ;) ample, and I hope correct Catalogues 
of the most valuable specimens of Architecture, Painting, and 
Sculpture, which adorn France, Germany, Italy, fyc., together with 
the opinions of Nardini, Venuti, Winckelmann, and Visconti, on 
some of the most celebrated works of Art*. I have likewise con¬ 
siderably enlarged my description of Pompeii, and other Antiquities 
in Magna Graecia ; doing the whole in the hope of exempting my 
Compatriots from the necessity of encumbering themselves with 
those numerous and incomplete publications, which are sold in 
every large foreign city. 

I have subjoined an account, (founded on very long experience,) 
of the Climates of southern Europe ; at the same time endeavouring 
to point out to Travellers every thing most likely to contribute 
to their comfort: and I have also given an account of the ex¬ 
pense attendant upon various modes of travelling, the distances 
charged from post to post on every great road, according to the 
post-books last published by royal authority; and the average price 
of ready-furnished lodgings, provisions, #c., closing this part of 
my work with a short comparative view of Family-expenses in va¬ 
rious cities of the Continent: so that persons induced, by pru- 

* In the following pages the Reader will find that several of these works of Art 
are distinguished, according to their reputed merit, by one or more exclamation- 
points. 



V! 


INTRODUCTION. 


dential motives, to reside Abroad, may not experience the disap¬ 
pointment of finding their plans defeated by impositions frequently 
practised upon Strangers. 

Accommodations for Travellers, during the last twenty years, 
have been materially increased in France, Switzerland, and Italy, 
by the augmentation and improvement of inns ; by the erection of 
fine bridges, which are almost universally substituted for inconve¬ 
nient and dangerous ferry boats ; by the sums bestowed to make 
roads smooth and level, which were heretofore rough and moun¬ 
tainous ; and by the consummate skill exerted to render those Alps 
which were only practicable by means of mules, traineaux, and 
chaises-a-porteur, so easy of ascent that post-horses, attached even 
to a heavy berlin, now traverse them speedily and safely. With 
such judgment, indeed, have the sinuosities of Alpine roads been 
managed, that crane-neck carriages, once absolutely requisite in 
passing the Alps, are at present needless: and I cannot dismiss 
this subject without adding, as a further proof of the great im¬ 
provements which have lately taken place respecting roads on the 
Continent, that during more than one journey of fifteen hundred 
miles, through France, Switzerland, and Italy, I never found it 
needful, except while ascending the Alps and Apennine, to put 
more than three horses to my own carriage, an English landaulet, 
nor to carriages of the same description belonging to the friends 
by whom I was accompanied. 

Other circumstances which contribute to the comfort of tra¬ 
velling at the present moment on the Continent, are the increase 
of ready furnished lodgings in large cities; owing in some measure 
to the poverty of the Nobles, who often let their palaces to Fo¬ 
reigners ; the improvement in mechanics, and consequently in 
furniture, throughout Italy ; the introduction of lamps, by which 
the streets of every large town are tolerably well lighted; and 
the stop put, by this circumstance among others, to the dreadful 
practice of assassination. 

But although the comfort of travelling has been thus con¬ 
siderably augmented, the expense of residing on the Continent 
has been augmented likewise; owing to taxes which, in capital 


INTRODUCTION. 


• 9 

VI r 

cities, are oppressive; and still more owing 1 to the great in¬ 
flux of British Travellers: nevertheless, as the necessaries of 
life are not materially enhanced in price any where but at 
Paris, it is still possible, nay, easy, for persons who understand 
and practise economy, to live with comfort either in the French, 
or the Italian territories, without incurring- a much larger expense 
than would have been needful twenty years since. 

With respect to modes of travelling to Italy, I would advise con¬ 
sumptive persons either to go by sea, in a vessel bound for 
Leghorn, thence proceeding up the Canal of Pisa to that city; 
or by sea to Bordeaux, and thence proceeding, by the royal Canal 
of Languedoc, to Marseilles; where vessels bound for Leghorn may 
be heard of daily. 

Persons in health, who wish to travel economically, might find 
their purpose answered by going with the Voituriers belonging to 
Emery ; whose carriages set out, almost every week, from London 
to various parts of the Continent: or by travelling in a public 
Diligence ; preferring that called The Coche d'eau, whenever 
attainable: but persons blessed with health and affluence should 
travel in their own carriage ; going post through France; and, 
generally speaking, going en voiturier in Switzerland and the 
Italian States. 

The most frequented post-road from Paris to southern Italy is 
through Lyons, and over the Mont-Cenis to Turin, Bologna, and 
Florence: but the most interesting route is that to northern Italy, 
by Dijon, the Jura Alps, Geneva, and the Simplon *: 

Those persons, however, who wish to trace the revival of the 
Arts, from the period when Gothic, or perhaps, more properly 
speaking, Arabesque architecture w'as brought, by the Crusaders, 
from the Holy Land, and fostered at Pisa, should first visit that 
city ; proceeding afterward to Florence and Rome : and in order to 
accomplish this purpose, the best route from Paris is through 
Lyons, Avignon, Aix, Nice, and Genoa f. 

* The road from Paris by the Simplon and through Milan to Florence, is ninety 
miles shorter than that by the Mont Cenis to Florence. 

t See page 102, first part of the following Work: and u Route from Nice through 
Genoa to Pisa,” Appendix, page 387. 


viii 


INTRODUCTION. 


Pisa may with truth be called the Cradle of the Arts ; for Buschetto, 
a Grecian, so early as the eleventh century, erected the Cathedral 
which still adorns this city ; Diotisalvi, during- the twelfth cen¬ 
tury, erected the Baptistery ; and Gug-lielmo, a German, aided by 
Bonnano, Pisano, began the Campanile about the year 1174. 
Niccolo, Pisano, his son Giovanni, and Andrea, Pisano, revived 
the art of Sculpture, in the thirteenth century ; and not only ein - 
bellished the buildings already erected, but likewise added another, 
still more beautiful, the celebrated Campo Santo. In the begin¬ 
ning of the thirteenth century also Giunto Pisano revived the art 
of Painting ; and was succeeded by Giotto and Cimabue. Those 
persons, therefore, who contemplate the productions of the Greco- 
Pisano School as the earliest efforts of the reviving Arts, cannot 
fail to be highly gratified ; especially if they afterward proceed to 
Florence and Rome, and trace the gradual progress of these Arts 
to that state of maturity which the parental care of the Medieean 
Princes at length enabled them to attain. 

I will now close this preface by saying, that, in the hope of being 
serviceable to those of my Compatriots, who, in consequence of 
pulmonary complaints, are compelled to exchange their native cli¬ 
mate for the mild temperature of Italy, I have ventured to make a 
few observations relative to health, and the result of twelve years’ 
experience ; during the greater part of which period my time and 
thoughts were chiefly occupied by endeavours to mitigate the suffer¬ 
ings of those most dear to me : and highly gratified should I feel if 
the little knowledge I have been able to collect could so far inform 
Travellers, as to guard them against those serious inconveniences 
which too generally retard, and not unfrequently prevent, the reco¬ 
very of consumptive persons*. 

Exmouth , September , 1823. 


* Since the following sheets were printed, two afflictive public events have 
occurred at Rome, the conflagration which reduced the venerable Basilica of Saint 
Paul to a heap of ruins; and the death of Pius VII., one of the most amiable and 
exemplary sovereigns who have occupied the papal throne. 


INFORMATION AND DIRECTIONS 


FOR 

TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 


CHAPTER I. 

FRANCE. 

Calais—Best Road to Paris—Abbey of S. Denis—Paris—Most prominent improve¬ 
ments—Musee Royal des Arts—Musee du Luxembourg—Ecole Royale des Beaux 
Arts—Public Libraries—Musee d’Histoire Maturelle et Jardin du Roi—Academic 
Royale de Musique, and other Theatres—Manufacture Royale desGlaces—Manufacture 
Royale des Tapisseries aux Gobelins—Colonne de la Place Vendome—Arc de triomphe 
de l’Etoile—Port S. Denis—Port. S. Martin—Tribunal du Corps-Legislatif—Basilique 
de Notre-Dame—Basilique de la Nonvelle S. Genevieve—Garde-meuble—Hotel Royal 
des Invalides—Institution Royale des Sourds-Muets—Hospice de la Salp6tri6re— 
Hopitai des Enfans trouves—Observatoire—Palais du Temple—Palais de la Bourse— 
Greniers de Reserve—Abattoirs—Halle an Ble—Halle aux Vins—Marche k la Volaille 
et au Gibier—Bridges — Fountains—Burial-places—S. Cloud — Sevres — Versailles— 
Present State of Society at Paris—Passports. 


On revisiting 1 Calais, in May 
1817, after an absence of twenty 
years, 1 discovered no apparent 
change, either in the town or its 
inhabitants ; except that the latter, 
at least the lower order of persons, 
have acquired a habit of smoking 
incessantly, like the Germans; while 
the former boasts a larger number 
of good inns than it possessed 
under the government of Louis 
xvi. ; and has been ridded of 
all its conventual institutions, and 
likewise of the host of mendicants 
by whom travellers were formerly 
annoyed. 

Understanding that the route 
through Beauvais to Paris was 
smoother, less hilly, and shorter 
by three posts, than that through 
Amiens, I turned off at Abbeville, 

(a) Travellers, who go by way of Beauvais 
to Paris, lose seeing one of the handsomest 
churches in France, the Cathedral at 
Amiens; and frequently experience bad 


(where the roads divide 21 ,) and 
pursued my way to Granvilliers ; 
passing near a mound which com¬ 
mands the adjacent country, and 
is denominated Caesar’s Camp. 
The entrenchments are well pre¬ 
served ; and medals and other 
antiquities have been found on 
this spot. Granvilliers contains 
3,000 inhabitants ; the road from 
Calais thither is excellent; and, 
owing to its great breadth, perfect 
straightness, and thickly-planted 
borders of trees, possesses an ap¬ 
pearance of grandeur for the same 
reason common to most of the 
high-roads in France. The coun¬ 
try had hitherto presented nothing 
remarkable ; but, after quitting 
Granvilliers, I passed through fine 
sheets of corn, interspersed with 

treatment at Granvilliers; where the pro¬ 
prietor of the only tolerable inn the town 
can boast (l’Hotel d’Anglettrre ) is neg¬ 
lectful and imposing. 



2 

convents transformed into manu¬ 
factories of various descriptions ; 
objects frequently seen now in 
the French territories ; and, ge¬ 
nerally speaking, disadvantageous 
to a landscape ; but this disad¬ 
vantage is counterbalanced by the 
improved state of agriculture, the 
increase of towns and villages, and 
the air of comfort which pervades 
even the humblest peasant’s cot¬ 
tage. 

Beauvais, seated on the banks 
of the Therain, is celebrated on 
account of the siege it sustained 
in 1472 ; when Jeanne Hachette 
headed the women of the town, 
and defended it against an army 
of 80,000 men, commanded by 
the Duke of Burgundy, whom she 
compelled to abandon his enter¬ 
prise ; and, in memory of this 
heroine, there is every year at 
Beauvais, a procession in which 
the ladies take precedence. The 
Cathedral, though unfinished, me¬ 
rits notice: it contains the tomb 
of Cardinal Forbin, by Coustou ; 
fine painted glass ; and good spe¬ 
cimens of the tapestry, for which 
Beauvais has long been famous. 
The Church of S. Etienne is 
likewise ornamented with fine 
painted glass. 

From Beauvais I proceeded 
through avenues of fruit-trees, 
and a country rich in corn and 
vineyards, to Beaumont, plea¬ 
santly situated on the left bank 
of the Oise; and from Beau¬ 
mont through avenues of fruit- 
trees, and well cultivated plains, 
to S. Denis, whose venerable 
Abbey has long been celebrated 
for containing the burial-place of 
the monarchs of France. During 
the Revolution, however, this Ab¬ 
bey was stript of its treasures, its 
church was unroofed, its altars were 
levelled with the dust, and its royal 


[Ch. I. 

Dead torn from the depositaries 
of departed greatness. But the 
Emperor Napoleon having deter¬ 
mined to restore the church to its 
pristine use and splendour, re¬ 
paired and improved the royal 
vaults, securing them with gates 
of bronze, and at the same time 
re-establishing the subterranean 
chapels, in which he erected three 
expiatory altars ; one dedicated 
to the Race of Clovis, another to 
that of Charlemagne, and a third 
to the princes of the Capetian dy¬ 
nasty : he likewise ordered prayers 
to be offered daily at the expiatory 
altars : and no change has been 
made in his plans by the present 
government, except that the bronze 
gates, with which he secured the 
royal vault destined to receive 
himself and his family, have been 
removed for a door of black mar¬ 
ble. The Church is repaired with 
elegant simplicity, and contains 
two old monuments near the great 
door, and two of less ancient date ; 
one being that of Louis xn., near 
which is a kneeling statue of the 
Duchess d'Angouleme. Good pic¬ 
tures adorn the Sacristy, and the 
conventual buildings of the Abbey 
are converted into an Establish¬ 
ment for the gratuitous educa¬ 
tion of the daughters of the mem¬ 
bers of the Legion of Honour. 
Strangers, who inquire at the Sa¬ 
cristy-door for one of the Swiss 
Guards, (always in attendance at 
S. Denis,) are conducted by him 
into the royal Burial-place ; where 
Napoleon's classic taste has sup¬ 
plied the tombs destroyed by re¬ 
publican frenzy ; thus making the 
three dynasties complete, twelve 
princes excepted. The remains 
of Louis xvi. his Queen, his 
Aunts, and the Duke de Berry, 
have been deposited in this royal 
mausoleum. 


PARTS. 


3 


PARIS. 


Ch. I.] 

Between S. Denis and Paris, 
(almost one continued street,) the 
splendid dome of the Hotel des 
Invalides , Mont Martre, Belle¬ 
ville, and S. Chaumont, are the 
most striking - objects ; the second 
still exhibits marks of having- made 
a desperate stand against the allied 
armies of Europe, when they 
united to dethrone Napoleon: 
and the two last were bravely 
defended on the 29th of March, 
1814, by the pupils of the Ecole 
Poly technique. 

Paris, anciently called Parisii 
vel Lutetia, is watered by the 
Seine, anciently Sequana; and 
previous to the dethronement of 
Louis xvi., was supposed to con¬ 
tain from seven to eight hundred 
thousand inhabitants ; but, since 
that period, the number has been 
considerably diminished ; and the 
population now does not amount 
to six hundred thousand. The 
improvements this city owes to 
Napoleon are innumerable: and 
on entering the Place Vendome, 
(adorned with a fine imitation of 
Antoninus’s column,) on advanc¬ 
ing to the Garde-meuble, and the 
palace of the Tuileries, viewing 
that superb edifice, its princely 
gardens, and the magnificent fa¬ 
cades of the Louvre, (deemed one 
of the most perfect specimens of 
modern architecture,) then con¬ 
templating, from the Pont Louis 
xvi., the Palais Bourbon , the 
front of the Tribunal du Corps 
Legislatif, the Champs Elysees, 
the stately dome of the Hotel des 
Invalides , the noble quays of the 
Seine, and the beautiful bridges 
thrown over that river, (which tra¬ 
verses Paris from east to west,) it 
is impossible not to think this me¬ 
tropolis the rival of ancient Rome ; 
especially when we recollect that 
the vast and splendid apartments 


of the Louvre, though recently de¬ 
spoiled of many treasures, still 
boast one of the largest and finest 
collections in the world of paint¬ 
ings and sculpture. 

At Paris, however, grandeur is 
more common than consistency; 
for ere the eye be sated with gaz¬ 
ing on the above-described mag¬ 
nificent panorama, it discovers 
streets narrow, insignificant, and 
filthy; disgraceful, in short, to any 
capital. 

Among the most prominent im¬ 
provements made during the late 
reign, are the noble Gallery in¬ 
tended to unite the immense pala¬ 
ces of the Louvre and the Tuile¬ 
ries ; the triumphal Arch de l’E- 
toile, (not finished ;) the Hotel dn 
Ministere des relations exteri- 
eures ; the Exchange, (not finish¬ 
ed ;) the Establishment for the 
Orphans of the Legion of Ho¬ 
nour ; the Observatory; the Tem¬ 
ple ; the Fountain of the Elephant, 
on the site of the Bastille, unfi¬ 
nished, but worthy of the colossal 
Mind by which it was projected ; 
the Storehouses for Grain, called 
Greniers de reserve; the Slaugh¬ 
ter-houses, called Abattoirs, mag¬ 
nificent in size, and particularly 
beneficial, as, previous to the reign 
of Napoleon, there was nothing of 
this description at Paris ; the Cu¬ 
pola of the Corn-market; the ge¬ 
neral Magazine for wines; the 
Poultry and Game Market; the 
great Market; the Market of S. 
Germain, of S. Martin, S>-c., tyc .; 
the Rue de la Paix; the Pont du 
Jardin du Roi; the Pont de la 
Cite; the Pont des Arts; the 
Pont des Invalides; the new 
Quays ; the Fountain of the Es¬ 
planade du Boulevard de Bondi; 
and the already mentioned Co¬ 
lumn in the Place Vendome. 

The triumphal Arch in the 


PARIS. 


4 

Place de Carousel , also, ranks 
among' the embellishments of Pa¬ 
ris ; though devoid of that magni¬ 
tude and simplicity which distin¬ 
guish the Roman edifice it was 
meant to imitate. 

But what especially charms 
the eyes of strangers in the 
French capital, is a beautiful Belt, 
called the Boulevards, which en¬ 
circles the town, and consists of 
drives and walks, bordered with 
forest-trees and gardens, and 
which, from the number of shops, 
and the profusion of flowers, where¬ 
by it is adorned, has a peculiar air 
of gaiety during winter; and pos¬ 
sesses, during summer, a salubri¬ 
ous coolness, rarely met with in a 
vast metropolis. The circumstance 
of all others, however, most con¬ 
ducive to the healthfulness of Pa¬ 
ris, is the purification of the water 
of the Seine; which, though per¬ 
fectly wholesome now, was seldom 
drank with impunity in its natural 
state. 

Judging by appearances, I 
should think Paris as much im¬ 
proved in wealth as in magnifi- 

( b ) For the benefit of travellers restricted 
in point of time, I shall mark (as I have 
already mentioned) with one or more 
exclamation-points, according to the merit 
of the work in question, those productions 
of the chisel and the pencil which are 
generally deemed most worthy of notice 
in the public and private galleries of the 
Continent: and, for the use of Travellers 
who may visit those galleries, I will here 
subjoin a short account of the origin of the 
Art of Sculpture. 

Asia seems to have given birth to this 
Art; but its progress appears to have been 
slow in all countries; during its infancy, 
in its native soil, the heathen divinities 
were represented by nothing more than 
square stones. Grecian sculpture began in 
a similar manner; after which, Bacchus, 
and other pagan gods, were worshipped 
under the form of a column. The next 
improvement consisted in placing the re¬ 
presentation of human heads upon these 
columns: Hermes was worshipped under 
this form ; whence comes the word Hermu. 
The most ancient representations of the 
human figure, at full length, were of potters’ 


[Ch. I. 

cence ; the shops being far more 
numerous, and far better stocked, 
than in time past; the manufacto¬ 
ries greatly improved ; the hotels 
(which amount to three hundred) 
furnished with an elegance here¬ 
tofore unknown; the coffee-houses 
displaying the most expensive em¬ 
bellishments ; the tables of Restau¬ 
rateurs abounding with luxuries ; 
and the opera-house exhibiting a 
splendour, with respect to stage 
decorations, which no other theatre 
in Europe can boast. 

Having enumerated the most 
striking changes in this metropo¬ 
lis, I will now enter into a few 
particulars respecting the objects 
best worth notice. 

Musee Royal da Louvre b . 
This immense collection of sculp¬ 
ture and paintings is placed in the 
magnificent palace of the Louvre: 
several rooms on the ground floor, 
princely in size, and rich in mar¬ 
bles and mosaics, being appropri¬ 
ated to the efforts of the chisel; 
and a suite of splendid apartments 
up stairs to those of the pencil. 
Among the sculpture are the 

clay. Dedalus, however, and, after him, 
Domophon, worked in wood; following 
artists worked in ivory; and their succes¬ 
sors made statues of bronze; hut, during 
the infancy of bronze sculpture, the compo¬ 
nent parts of statues were fastened together 
with nails; this is exemplified by six fe¬ 
male figures, found in Herculaneum. After 
bronze, stone was used; and last of all, 
marble; but,for a considerable period, the 
heads, hands, and feet only of statues were 
marble; the trunks being wood. This cus¬ 
tom prevailed so late as the days of Phi¬ 
dias; and even when sculpture had reached 
its zenith of perfection, several of the finest 
statues of marble, instead of being cut, each 
of them, out of one block, were made in 
separate pieces, and subsequently joined 
together. This is exemplified in the cele¬ 
brated Niobe and two of her daughters; in 
the Albani Pallas; and in the Faustina, 
found near Ostia, among ruins supposed to 
he the remains of Pliny’s Villa, called Lau¬ 
rent um. Very ancient statues were fre¬ 
quently painted, and sometimes draped 
with real stuffs, like the Madonnas of mo¬ 
dern Italy. 


PARIS. 


Ch. I.] 


5 


choicest treasures of the Villa Bor- 
ghese, and many other highly va¬ 
lued works of art, which once em¬ 
bellished Rome. 

Vestibule. No. 1, colossal bust 
of a vanquished Provinces—5, 
ditto of Domitian d .—6, ditto of 
Alexander Severus e .—7, statue of 
a Barbarian Prisoner f .—9, colos¬ 
sal bust of Lucius Verus.—II, 
statue of a Barbarian Prisoner s. 
13, colossal bust of Jupiter Sera- 
pis.—18. Vase adorned with bac¬ 
chanalian emblems h ! 

Arcade leading to the Hall of 
the Emperors. No. 19, statue of 
Apollo, called Sauroctonon t or 
Lizard-killer; supposed to be one 
of the finest imitations extant of a 
bronze statue of Apollo, by Praxi¬ 
teles 1 !—22, statue of the Genius 
of eternal sleep k . 

Hall of the Roman Emperors. 
No. 26, statue of Marcus Aure- 
lius i.— 26, a Barbarian Prison¬ 
er m .—28, bust of Vespasian.— 
31, statue of Nero.—33, ditto of 
Trajan 11 . The Rasso-rilievo on 
the Pedestal of this statue repre¬ 
sents a husband and wife dining, 
and reposing on their couch; and 
is curious, because it exhibits an¬ 
cient Roman costume.—34, bust 
of Claudius. —41, Basso-rilievo 
found at Rome, and representing 
a religious ceremony performed 
before the temple of Jupiter Capi- 
tolinus ; of which the three doors 
indicate the three naves conse¬ 
crated to the three associated di¬ 


vinities, Jupiter, Minerva, and 
Juno 0 .— 42, statue of Trajan P. 

Hall of the Seasons. No. 46, 
statue of Venus Genitrix !—47, 
bust of Commodus.—50, statue of 
a wounded Combatant<b—55, an 
Egyptian divinity, in oriental ala¬ 
baster 1 !—59, bust of Venus s !— 
65, statue of Euripides M—73, 
ditto of a Nymph.—74, statue of 
Bacchus 0 .—75, a Sarcophagus, 
representing the Voyage of the 
Good to Elysium.—76, basso-ri- 
lievo of Mithras, (a Persian divi¬ 
nity,) the Genius of the sun, ac¬ 
complishing the mystic sacrifice of 
the bull! Mithras was worship¬ 
ped by the Romans, who erected 
altars to him ; and this basso- 
rilievo was found near the Forum 
Romanum. — 82, Basso -rilievo 
taken from the Temple of Minerva 
at Athens ; it represents the Pa- 
nathensea, and was composed by 
Phidias, and executed under his 
orders v ! 

Hall of Peace. No. 85, a Can¬ 
delabrum, taken from the Vatican 
Museum. —89, statue of Posido¬ 
nius w !—92, ditto of Demosthe¬ 
nes x !—95, ditto of Trajan y! 

Hall of the Romans. No. 97, 
bust of Geta, very rare z . — 98, 
Inopus, a fragment found at De¬ 
los* 1 .—100, statue of Augustus b . 

101, bust of a Roman Warrior 0 . 

102, statue of Rome.—111, ditto 
of Tiberius, found at Capri: dra¬ 
pery fine, head restored. —113, sta¬ 
tue of Augustus d !—115, bust of 


c) From the Villa Borghese. 

d) From the Villa Albani. 

e) From the Braschi Palace, at Rome. 

/) Vil. Borg. (g) Ibid. 

h) Ibid. (®) Ihid. 

k) This statue does not express the idea 
s intended to convey. 

l) Fiom Gabii. ( V ) Gabii. 

m) Vil. Alb. (?) Vil. Borg. 

,,) Gabii. (r V»|- £ lb * 

o) Vil. Borg. («) Vil. Borg. 


(0 Vil. Alb. («) Vil. Borg. 

( v) The Panathenaea were festivals in 
honour of Minerva, the patroness of Athens. 
(tv) Vil. Borg. 

(x) From the Museo Pio Clementino. 

(y) Vatican. (a) Gabii. 

(«) Inopus, a river of Delos, supposed, 
by the inhabitants, to be a branch of the 
Rile. 

( b ) Vatican. (c) Vi] Borg. 

(d) Mu. Pio Clementino. 


6 


PARIS. 


Faustina the elder e .—116, colos¬ 
sal bust of Rome f !—118, statue 
of Julia, the consort of Septimius 
Severus.—120, group representing 
Thetis, S)-c., and worth notice, on 
account of the ancient galley on 
which the goddess is placed &.— 
123, bust of Lucilla h .—121, sta¬ 
tue of Chastity.—126, bust of 
Antinous, found near Frascati! 
128, Metope, taken from the Par¬ 
thenon, at Athens! 

Hall o f the Centaur. No. 130, 
statue of a Roman, name un¬ 
known.—132, herma of Alexander 
the Great, found at Tivoli.—134, 
group of the Centaur!!! This 
master-piece is supposed, by the 
Chevalier Visconti, to have been 
executed in the time of Adrian, by 
Aristeas and Papias, natives of 
Aphrodisias, in Caria 1 .—135, co¬ 
lossal head of Apollo.—138, ditto 
of Marcus Aurelius k .—140, ditto 
of Lucius Verus 1 .—141, statue of 
Germanicus m .—142, ditto of Clau¬ 
dius 11 .—144, ditto of Achilles 0 .— 
146, statues of Fauns p. —149, 
bust of Lucius Verus q.—150, sta¬ 
tue of Sextus Pompeius, found 
near Tusculum, and executed by 
Ophelion, a Greek artist!—151, 
one of the largest and most beau¬ 
tiful Candelabra of antiquity, found 
in Magna Graecia. 

Hall of Diana. No. 154, sta¬ 
tue of Bacchus.—162, ditto of 
Minerva.—164, bust of a Roman, 
name unknown.—165, group of 
three Nymphs suspending their 
wet garments on a column r !—167, 
statue of Thalia s .—16S, Basso- 
rilievo of Hercules stealing the 
tripod of Delphos.—170 1 , bust of 
Rome.—171 u , statue of Venus.— 


(e) Braschi Palace. 
(/) Vil. Borg. 

(g) Vil. Alb. 

( h ) Gabii. 

Vil. Borg. 


( k) Vil. Borg. 

(l) Ibid. 

(m) Gabii. 

(») Ibid. 

(o) Vil. Borg. 


[Ch. I. 


175, a Greek Basso-rilievo. —176, 
Basso-rilievo representing the Su~ 
ovetaurilia, a sacrifice among the 
ancient Romans, which consisted 
of the immolation of a sow, ( sus ,) 
a lamb, ( ovis ,) and a bull, ( taurus ,) 
whence the name. It was usually 
observed every fifth year.—178, 
Diana a la BicheH so called be¬ 
cause the goddess is represented 
at the moment when she has res¬ 
cued the celebrated Hind with 
golden horns from Hercules, and 
reprimanded him for molesting an 
animal sacred to her. This beau¬ 
tiful work, found between Genzano 
and Aricia, amidst the ruins of a 
temple consecrated to Diana, is of 
Parian marble, and stands upon a 
Pedestal ornamented with fine 
bassi-rilievi: that part which re¬ 
presents three cities, personified 
by three female figures wearing 
crenated diadems, is particularly 
admired!!!—180, group called Ve¬ 
nus victorious v ! The Basso-rilievo 
which serves as a Pedestal to this 
group is in the Etruscan style.— 
182, basso-rilievo denominated the 
Conclamation ; a ceremony which 
took place at the funerals of the 
ancient Romans, and consisted in 
calling the Departed loudly and 
repeatedly by name ; and likewise 
endeavouring to rouse them by 
the noise of music, in order to as¬ 
certain whether they were really 
dead.—185, group of Venus and 
Cupid, supposed to be an imitation 
of the draped Venus of Praxiteles! 
192, statue of Minerva! This fine 
piece of sculpture is supposed, by 
Visconti, to be a copy of the bronze 
Minerva of Phidias, surnained 
The Beautiful w .—196, bust of 


(jj)Vil. Borg. 
(?) Ibid. 

(r) Ibid. 

( s ) Ibid. 


( t ) Vil. Borg. 

( u ) Ibid. 

(v) Ibid. 

(tv) Ibid. 


PARIS. 


7 


Ch. I.] 


Marcus Agrippa*.—197, statue of 
the Lycian Apollo!—199, statue 
of Diana.—201, bust of Demos¬ 
thenes, supposed to be one of the 
best likenesses extant of that phi¬ 
losopher y.—207, Fountain in the 
form of a tripod, found among- the 
ruins of Adrian’s Villa. 

Hall of the Candelabrum. No. 
208, a Candelabrum, which, if 
found in its present state, would 
have ranked among- the larg-est 
and most beautiful ancient works 
of its kind; but, thoug-h the mate¬ 
rials of which it is composed are 
antique, they were put into their 
present form by Piranesi.—210, 
bust of Venus 2 !—212, basso-ri- 
lievo of Antiope reconciling- her 
sons Zethus and Amphion a .—213, 
statue of Diana b .—214, an Altar 
consecrated to Diana-Lucifera, or 
the moon c .—215, bust of Isis.— 
216, statue of a Dog-, found at 
Gabii!—218, statue of Pollux d .— 
220, Tripod of the Delphic Apol¬ 
lo, found at Ostia !—224, statue 
of a Wild Boar, being- an antique 
copy of the celebrated boar at 
Florence e .—229, Tripod, found 
at Gabii.—230, statue of Mar- 
syas !!! This is deemed one of 
the finest pieces of sculpture ex¬ 
tant ; and, like every other an¬ 
tique representation of Marsyas, 
is supposed to be imitated from a 
picture by Zeuxis, which Pliny 
mentions as having- graced the 
temple of Concord at Rome f .— 
232, basso-rilievo of Jupiter e. 

Hall of the Tiber. No. 233, 
statue of iEsculapius h ! — 234, 
statue of Antinous in the charac¬ 
ter of Hercules, found near Tivoli. 
238, statue of Flora *.—241, Chair 
consecrated to Bacchus k !—242, 


(x) Gabii. 

(2/) Vil. Alb. 
(z) Vil. Borg. 

(а ) Ibid. 

(б) Ibid. 


(c) Vil. Borg. 

( d) Ibid. 

( e ) Ibid. 

(/) Ibid. 

(g) Ibid. 


statue of Ceres K — 244, statue of a 
Bacchante m . —245, Chair conse¬ 
crated to Ceres n !— 246, statue 
called the Diana of Gabii.— 249, 
the Tiber, a colossal group] found 
at Rome, on the site of the temple 
of Isis and Serapis, near the Via- 
Lata °!!! This fine group, tog-e¬ 
ther with that of the Nile, (in the 
Vatican Museum,) adorned two 
fountains which embellished the 
avenue of the temple. The Tiber 
is represented in a recumbent pos¬ 
ture, resting- his rig-ht arm on an 
urn, near which reposes the wolf 
of Mars, with her nursling-s, the 
founders of Rome: the oar in his 
left hand indicates that the river is 
navig-able.— 251, four statues, call¬ 
ed Caryatides, which once adorned 
the Villa Albani. 

Arcade which leads to the Hall 
of the fighting Warrior. No. 258, 
statue of Antinous.— 259, basso- 
rilievo , representing- the birth of 
Bacchus P. — 260, statue of Mars. 

Hall of the fighting Warrior. 
No. 262, statue of a Warrior, call¬ 
ed the Gladiator of the Villa Borg- 
hese!!!! He is represented as 
combating- with an enemy on 
horseback ; his left arm bears a 
shield, with which he is supposed 
to parry the strokes of his oppo¬ 
nent, whom, with the right hand, 
he is about to wound with all his 
force. The attitude of the statue 
is admirably calculated for this 
double action; and every limb, 
every muscle, is said to wear more 
precisely the appearance of life, 
than does any other master-piece 
of the Grecian chisel. The au¬ 
thor of this transcendent and ini¬ 
mitable work was Agasias of 
Ephesus; whose name is engraved 

(h) Vil. Alb. (i) Vil. Borg. 

( k ) Mu. Pio Clementino. 

ll) Vil. Borg. (m) Ibid. 

( n ) Mu. Pio Clementiuo. 

( o) Ibid. (p) Vil. Alb. 


8 


PARIS. 


on the trunk which supports the 
figure; and whose design, accord¬ 
ing to Visconti, was not to repre¬ 
sent a gladiator, but a warrior. 
Winckelmann is of the same opi¬ 
nion ; and says, that the statue in 
question appears to have been ex¬ 
ecuted before the period when 
gladiatorial shows were first exhi¬ 
bited in Greece. During the com¬ 
mencement of the seventeenth 
century, this chef-d'oeuvre was 
discovered at Antium, where the 
Roman Emperors had a Villa; 
and where the Apollo of Belve¬ 
dere was found about a century 
before q.—263, statue of Mercury r . 
—267, bust of Clodius Albinus s .— 

269, bust of Marcus Aurelius t .— 

270, a Sarcophagus representing 
the death of Meleager! u .—272, 
group of two Romans in the cos¬ 
tume of Mars and Venus v .—276, 
statue of Adrian ! w .—279, ditto of 
Cupid, in the character of Hercu¬ 
les 3 *.—2S1, statue of a wounded 
Amazon ! The upper part of this 
figure is said to be an antique imi¬ 
tation of the wounded Amazon of 
Ctesilas ; but the sculptor by whom 
it was restored, in the sixteenth 
century, has deviated from the cos¬ 
tume appropriate to female war¬ 
riors.—282, statue of the Venus 
of Arles, so called, because found 
at Arles, in Provence ; and, sup¬ 
posed to be Venus victorious, the 
device of Cresar.—284, statue of 
an Infant Mercury y.— 287, statue 
of Lucius Caesar ! z .—290, group 
of a Faun and a Satyr: the Pedes¬ 
tal is supposed to have been an 
ornament with which the tops of 
ancient Wells were sometimes em¬ 
bellished 8 .—297, statue of Mer¬ 


( q ) Vil. Borg. 

(r) Ibid. 

(s) Vil. Alb. 

(t) Vil. Borg. 
(«) Ibid. 


(v) Vil. Borg. 
(tv) Gabii. 

(x) Ibid. 

(.v) Vil. Borg, 
(z) Gabii. 


[Ch. I 

cury: the subject of the Basso - 
rilievo on the Pedestal is taken 
from the Odyssey, and represents 
Ulysses in the Shades Below. 

Hall of Pallas. No. 299, sta¬ 
tue of a Female, petitioning the 
gods b .—The sculptor who restor¬ 
ed the hands of this statue, has 
converted it into an Euterpe.— 
301, statue of Ceres c . —302, ditto 
of the Genius of Bacchus ! d .— 
304, bust of Trajan e .— 306, sta¬ 
tue of Polymnia, upper part mo¬ 
dern, drapery antique, and very 
fine f .—The Muse of Memory, and 
the Inventress of Harmony, seems 
stationed to watch over a Sarco¬ 
phagus, numbered 307, and called 
that of Homer ; because the Fa¬ 
ther of heroic Poetry is here re¬ 
presented as conversing with Cal¬ 
liope, and indicating, by the two 
fingers he holds up, that he com¬ 
posed only two epic poems. Fi¬ 
gures of all the other Muses adorn 
this Sarcophagus ; which was dis¬ 
covered, at the commencement of 
the last century, near Rome, on 
the road to Ostia.— 310, a colos¬ 
sal statue called, The Pallas of 
Velletri, because it was found near 
that town, in 1797 ! !! The god¬ 
dess is represented as possessing 
the dignified beauty which accords 
with wisdom ; and, though armed 
with her helmet, aegis, and lance, 
she seems, from the mildness of 
her countenance, to indicate that 
the arts of peace are not less dear 
to her than the glory of war. This 
statue is of the finest Greek work¬ 
manship ; and the Pedestal on 
which it rests merits observation. 
—314, statue of a female Musi¬ 
cian, supposed, by the costume, to 


(«) The receptacles for the ashes of vic¬ 
tims in heathen temples seem to have been 
usually thus adorned. 

(b) Vil. Borg. ( e ) Vil. Alb. 

S Ibid * (/) Vil. Borg. 

(d) Ibid. 


PARIS. 


9 


Ch. 1.] 


have been executed in the time of 
Trajan, or Adrians!.— 315, Sar¬ 
cophagus, called, that of Acteon h . 
—317, bust of Adrian A—31S, sta¬ 
tue of Nemesis k . —319, ditto of an 
Infant Hercules 1 .— 321, statue 
supposed to represent Hope. The 
Basso-rilievo which adorns the 
Pedestal, displays the formation of 
man by Prometheus, and Minerva 
giving- him life, under the emblem 
of a butterfly.— 328, the cinerary 
urn of Clodius ; Egyptian work¬ 
manship, as appears from the hie¬ 
roglyphics™.— 331 ,a triangular Al¬ 
tar, representing three of the signs 
in the zodiac, namely, Virgo, the 
Scorpion, and Sagittarius,with the 
three divinities, Ceres, Mars, and 
Jupiter n .— 332, a Grecian Vase, 
executed by an Athenian artist, 
called Sosibius 0 .— 339, a sepul¬ 
chral urn, which contained the 
ashes of Fundanius Velinus p.— 
310, group representing a Pea¬ 
sant cutting up a Deer<i.— 341, 
statue of Euterpe r .— 343, Basin, 
or Bath of Porphyry. Baths 
were sometimes used as sepulchres, 
when properly shaped for the pur¬ 
pose s . 

Halt of Melpomene. The floor 
of this apartment is ornamented 
with Mosaics, chiefly executed at 
Paris by Belloni, and representing 
Minerva in her car, followed by 
Peace and Abundance ; with river 
Gods, fyc., forming a border to the 
picture. No. 344, bust of Isis.— 
345, statue of a Female petition¬ 
ing the gods, and supposed to be 
the portrait of a Roman Empress t . 
347, bust of the Nile.— 348, colos¬ 
sal statue of Melpomene, supposed 
originally to have adorned Pom- 


(g) Vil. Borg. 
(7i) Ibid. 

(i) Gabii. 

(k) Ibid. 

(/) Vil. Borg. 
(m) Ibid. 


(«) Gabii. 

( o ) Vil. Borg. 

(p) Vatican. 
(y) Vil. Alb. 

(r) Vil. Borg. 

(s) Ibid. 


pey’s theatre, and found on its 
site 11 !!!— 351, bust of Jupiter- 
Serapis !— 353, altar consecrated 
to Diana.— 354, statue of a Ne¬ 
gro Slave v . 

Hall of Isis. Four columns of 
Spanish marble are placed in the 
four corners of this apartment, 
and serve as pedestals to four 
Egyptian Statues ; the most re¬ 
markable of which is an Isis, with 
a lion’s head, in black basalt. No. 
359, statue of Isis, found in Adri¬ 
an’s Villa.— 361, statue of an 
Egyptian Priest.— 363, ditto, in 
green basalt w .— 367, statue of an 
Egyptian Priestess kneeling, with 
the throne of the gods in her 
hand ; found near the Via Flami - 
nia, about ten leagues from Rome. 
—378, large Altar of twelve gods, 
supposed to be a production of 
the iEgina school!— 3S0, statue of 
Venus, supposed to be an antique 
imitation of the Venus of the Ca¬ 
pitol x . 

Hall of Pysclie. No. 381, Al¬ 
tar of twelve gods, found at Gabii! 
This valuable piece of sculpture 
is adorned with busts of the twelve 
principal divinities of the Greeks 
and Romans, namely, Jupiter, 
Minerva, Apollo, Juno, Neptune, 
Vulcan, Mercury, Vesta, Ceres, 
Diana, Mars, and Venus ; the two 
last of whom Love is uniting: it 
is likewise adorned with the twelve 
signs of the zodiac, and with sym¬ 
bols of the divinity supposed to 
preside over the month which 
each sign indicates.— 3S3, statue 
of a dancing Fauny.— 387, sta¬ 
tue of Psyche ! z .— 398, statue of 
Minerva, supposed to be a pro¬ 
duction of the iEgina school.— 

(t) Vil. Borg. 

(m) Mu. Pio. Clementino. 

\v) Vil. Borg. ( y) Vil. Borg. 

( w ) Ibid. (s) Ibid. 

(x) Ibid. 


10 


PARIS. 


399, statue of Cupid trying 1 his 
bow ; probably an antique copy 
of the bronze Cupid of Lysippus a . 
—403, statue of a dancing 1 Faun. 

Hall of the Augur. No. 417, 
statue of Cupid b .—418, basso- 
rilievo, representing the funeral 
of Hector c .—439, basso-rilievo 
representing one of the Roman 
Augurs consulting the entrails of 
an ox, and unique with respect to 
its subject d .—442, statue of Com- 
modus, found at Gabii. 

Hall of Hercules and Telephus. 
—No. 450, a colossal group of 
Hercules and Telephus e .—458, 
statue of Minerva f .—461, recum¬ 
bent statue of an Hermaphrodite : 
this seems to be an antique imita¬ 
tion of the celebrated Hermaphro¬ 
dite in the Hall of the Caryatides. 
The mattress is antique 8. —462, 
statue of Diana, formerly called 
the Zingarella h .—465, statue of 
Julius Caesar, found at Gabii.— 
456, statue of Pertinax. 

Hall of Medea. No. 470, group 
of the Graces; the heads are mo¬ 
dern 1 . —478, basso-relievo repre¬ 
senting the vengeance of Medea k . 
—488, group of Mercury and Vul¬ 
can 1 . —491, a sleeping Nymph m . 
496, group of Cupid and Psyche n . 
—498, statue of a Muse °. 

Corridor of Pan. No. 501, sta¬ 
tue of a Priestess of Isis, found at 
Athens.—504, statue of a young 
Faun P. —506, statue of Pan q.— 
514, bust of an Egyptian Priest. 
—517, hernia of the Indian Bac¬ 
chus, found at Rome.—522, sta¬ 
tue of Urania. 

Hall of the Caryatides , so call¬ 
ed because one end of this immense 


(a) Vil. Borg. 
! (/>) Ibid. 

C c ) Ibid. 

(d) Ibid. 

( e) Ibid. 

(/) Ibid. 

(. S ) Ibid. 


(A) Vil. Borg. 
O') Ibid. 

(A) Ibid. 

( l ) Ibid. 

( m ) Ibid. 

(n) Ibid. 

( o) Ibid. 


[Ch. I. 


apartment exhibits four Carya¬ 
tides, the work of Jean Goujon. 
No. 523, a triangular Altar adorn¬ 
ed with bassi-relievi representing 
three Lacedaemonian Virgins r .— 
526, herma of Socrates.—527, the 
celebrated Hermaphrodite of the 
Villa Borghese, supposed to be 
the finest imitation extant of the 
bronze Hermaphrodite of Polycle- 
tus!!! This statue was discover¬ 
ed, at the commencement of the 
seventeenth century, near Dio- 
clesian's Baths. The mattress on 
which the figure rests was done by 
Bernini, who, likewise, restored 
the left foot.—528, herma of Ho¬ 
mer, from the Museum of the 
Capitol. — 530, herma of Dio¬ 
genes.—533, statue of a Lion, 
in green basalt 8 !—559, statue of 
Hercules ; upper part fine t . —560, 
herma called Hercules ; but sup¬ 
posed, by Winckelmann, to repre¬ 
sent Xenophon,—592, herma of 
Thucydides.—593, statue of Sa¬ 
bina, the consort of Adrian v !— 
595, statue of an African Fisher¬ 
man, heretofore denominated, the 
death of Seneca u !—596, a co¬ 
lumn of red porphyry, surmounted 
by a fragment of a statue of Mi¬ 
nerva, apparently of the iEgina 
school.—597, Choiseul Marble, dis¬ 
covered, at Athens, in the year 
1788. — 622, statue of Livia.— 
623, herma of Zeno w .—655, herma 
of Pittacus.—657, ditto of Epi¬ 
curus x .—6S1, statue of Venus 
rising from the bath y.—682, bust 
of Tiberius, found at Gabii.—684, 
statue of Alexander the Great z !— 
The Basso-rilievo fixed in the 
wall, above this statue, represents 


( V ) Vil. Borg. ( v ) Vil. Borg. 

(?) Ibid. (w) Ibid. 

(r) Ibid. (*) Ibid. 

( s ) Albani collection. ( y) Vatican. 

(t) Vil. Borg. (z) Vil. Alb. 

(u) Gabii. 


Ch - I ] PARIS. 


Achilles arming- himself for battle • 
and was taken from the Villa 
Borghese.— 694, group of a Child 
strangling- a g-oose, supposed to be 
an antique copy of a work in 
bronze which Pliny mentions as 
having- been executed by Boethus, 
a Carthaginian sculptor! This 
group was found near Rome, on 
the spot now called Roma Vec- 
chia, the ancient Pagus Lemonius. 
— 698, statue of Venus rising-from 
the bath; supposed to be an an¬ 
tique copy of a celebrated Venus, 
by Polycharmus, which adorned 
Rome in the days of Pliny !— 699, 
bust of Marcus Aurelius a .— 703, 
torso of Jupiter, supposed to be 
an antique imitation, in marble, of 
the famous Jupiter-Olympius of 
Phidias ! —704, statue of a Disco¬ 
bolus, found in the Via Appia .— 
705, 706, and 708, Vases found at 
Marathon.— 709, group of Silenus 
with the infant Bacchus!!!! This 
master-piece of art was discovered, 
during- the sixteenth century, in 
the gardens of Sallust.— 710, sta¬ 
tue of Jason, improperly called 
Cincinnatus!! This chef-d’oeuvre 
was found at the Villa Negroni, 
and is thought to be in the style of 
Agasiasthe Ephesian.— 711, Vase 
of the Villa Borghese!! The bassi 
rilievi on this beautiful Vase, which 
was found in the gardens of Sal¬ 
lust, represent a Bacchanalian ce¬ 
remony.— 712, statue of a Roman, 
in the character of Mercury, and 
improperly called Germanieus !! 
This chef-d'oeuvre, which appears 
to be the work of the younger 
Cleomenes, does not, in point of 
features, resemble any of the sta¬ 
tues, nor any of the medals, of 
Germanieus: it was found in the 
Villa Negroni. 

(a) Gabii. 

(b) Engravings of a considerable num¬ 
ber of the pictures in this Museum have 


The staircase, leading to the 
apartments which contain the 
paintings, was built according to 
the design of Fontaine ; and con¬ 
sists of four distinct flights of steps; 
two leading to the Gallery of Apol¬ 
lo, and two to the Exhibition- 
rooms of living Artists, which are 
interesting, because they contain 
a greater number of historical pic¬ 
tures than do our Exhibitions at 
Somerset-House. Beyond these 
rooms is the Gallery, called Italian ; 
in size one of the most magnificent 
apartments existing; and adorned 
with columns, mirrors, candelabra, 
altars, busts, ancient and modern 
vases, all of the most costly de¬ 
scription ; beside eleven hundred 
•and fifty odd pictures; which clothe 
its walls. This Gallery is divided 
into nine parts; the three first 
containing the works of the French 
School; the three next being ap¬ 
propriated to the works of the Ger¬ 
man, Flemish, and Dutch Schools; 
and the three last to the Italian 
Schools b . 

French School. No. 11, the 
descent from the cross, by Bour¬ 
don.—20, the Nativity, by Le 
Brun.—22, the blessed Virgin pre¬ 
paring a meal for the Infant Jesus. 
“23, Jesus served in the Desert 
by Angels.—24, the Magdalene 
renouncing the vanities of life, 
supposed to represent Madame de 
la Valliere!—2S, the dream of 
Anne of Austria.—30, Pentecost. 
—31, the lapidation of S. Stephen! 

•—and 34, the tent of Darius ! all 
by Le Brun.—46, a Painter’s Stu¬ 
dio, by Cochereau.—54, the last 
Judgment, by Cousin !—60, Joas 
acknowledged king of Israel, by 
Antoine Coypel,—65, a Kitchen, 
by Drolling, a self-taught Painter. 

been taken; and proof impressions arc 
sold, for the benefit of the establishment, 
at the Calcographie du Musee Royal. 


12 


PARIS 


—75, David anointed king over 
Israel, by Claude Lorrain!—76, 
the disembarkation of Cleopatra 
to present herself before Anthony! 
—77, 78, 79, and 80, all by 
Claude.—97, the descent from the 
Cross, by Jouvenet. — 10S, La 
Vierge a la Grappe, by Mignard! 
—Ill, S. Cecilia, by ditto.—119, 
portrait of Nicolas Poussin, by 
himself.'—120, the Deluge, a par¬ 
ticularly fine and poetical picture. 
—122, the preservation of the 
Infant Moses.—130, the Judg¬ 
ment of Solomon !—131, our Sa¬ 
viour, the blessed Virgin, S. John, 
Elizabeth, and Joseph!—134, the 
blind Men of Jericho!—137, the 
death of Saphira !—139, the as¬ 
sumption of the Virgin.—141, S. 
Francois Xavier recalled to life ! 
145, the death of Eurydice.—146, 
Shepherds of Arcadia.—147, Time 
rescuing Truth from Envy and 
Calumny, and bearing her to the 
regions of eternity!—and Dio¬ 
genes throwing away his tankard ! 
all by Nicolas Poussin.—172, S. 
Paul preaching at Ephesus, by 
Le Sueur.—173, Simon, the Cy- 
renian, coming to the aid of our 
Saviour, who is represented as 
sinking under the weight of his 
cross, while S. Veronica offers him 
a handkerchief, which receives the 
impression of his countenance !— 
and 174, the descent from the 
cross ; both by Le Sueur.—224, 
Antibes, by Vernet.—225, 226, 
227, Toulon. — 228, Bandol.— 
229, and 230, Marseille.—231, 
Cette.—232, and 233, Bayonne. 
—234, and 235, Bordeaux.—236, 
La Rochelle.—237, Rochefort.— 
23S, Dieppe.—242, a Sea-port at 
sunrise !—243, a Sea-port at sun¬ 
set !—249, a Sea-view by moon¬ 
light !—250, a tempest.—251, a 
Moonlight scene ; and 252, a tem¬ 
pest ; all by Vernet. 


[Ch. I. 

Flemish , Germany and Dutch 
Schools. No. 310, view at sun¬ 
set, in Italy, by Both !—321, the 
Garden of Eden, by Breughel.— 
327, a Landscape, the figures in 
which are by Annibale Caracci, 
the other part by Paul Brill.— 
338, Lcs Religieuses, by Philippe 
de Champaigne.—339, the Repast 
at the house of Simon the Phari¬ 
see.—340, the last Supper—and 
345, a large Landscape, likewise 
by Philippe de Champaigne.— 
354, a Landscape with Cattle, by 
Cuyp!—355, a Gentleman mount¬ 
ing his horse ; and 356, the same 
Gentleman returning from his ride ; 
likewise by Cuyp.—358, the drop¬ 
sical Woman, by Gerard Dow!! 
(this picture is deemed his chef- 
d’oeuvre.)'—373, a Philosopher, by 
the same Artist!—374, the inte¬ 
rior of a Guard-house, by Jean le 
Due.—377, Charles i, of Eng¬ 
land, by Anthony Vandyck.—379, 
Isabella, daughter to Philip n, of 
Spain.—389, sketch of our Sa¬ 
viour dead in the arms of the 
blessed Virgin, and Angels weep¬ 
ing !—390, the Infant Jesus re¬ 
ceiving homage from a Saint and 
a King !—and 392, {Ex Voto) 
the Infant Jesus receiving ho¬ 
mage ; all by Anthony Vandyck. 
—396, Hagar banished to the de¬ 
sert, by Philip Vandyck. — 408, 
an Angel announcing the birth of 
the Messiah to the Shepherds, by 
Flinck.—414, a Landscape, by 
Glauber !—431, a portrait of Sir 
Thomas More, by John Holbein. 
—432, a portrait of Erasmus.— 
433, ditto of an Arch-bishop of 
Canterbury.—434, ditto of Nicho¬ 
las Kratzer, Astronomer to Henry 
VIII, of England ; and 437, the 
descent from the Cross, with two 
other paintings in the same frame, 
all by John Holbein.—443, the 
interior of a Dutch dwelling, by 


PARIS. 


13 


Oh. I.] 

Peter de Hooeli!—443, and all 
the intermediate numbers to 455, 
by Van Huysum.—457, the Cruci¬ 
fixion, by Jardin!—475, the De¬ 
scent from the Cross, by Lucas 
de Leyden. — 4S3, a Jeweller 
weighing gold, and his Wife ex¬ 
amining a book illuminated with 
miniatures, by Quintin Matsys.— 
529, interior of the Cathedral at 
Anvers, by Peter Neff!—530, 531, 
532, and 533, by the same Master. 
—534, a Landscape, by Aart Van- 
derneer: the cows in this land¬ 
scape are attributed to Cuyp.— 
540, S. Carlo Borromeo adminis¬ 
tering the sacrament to persons 
infected with the plague at Milan, 
by Van Oost the Elder.—541, the 
Family of Adrian Van Ostade, by 
himself.—54S, Travellers stopping 
at an Inn, by Isaac Van Ostade.— 
553, an Angel announcing the 
birth of the Messiah to the Shep¬ 
herds, by Poelenburg.—558, por¬ 
trait of Guillaume du Vair, by 
Probus the younger.—564, two 
Horses fastened to a trough at an 
Inn-door, and a man bringing 
them water, by Paul Potter!— 
565, Cattle, by ditto!—568, a 
Landscape with Cattle, by Pyna- 
ker.—569, 570, 571, and 572, 
portraits of Rembrandt, by him¬ 
self.—575, head of a man with a 
fur cap.—576, head of an old per¬ 
son with a long beard.—577, To- 
bit and his Family prostrate before 
the Angel of God !—57S, the good 
Samaritan.—579, our Saviour at 
Emmaus.'—5S0, S. Matthew writ¬ 
ing, and an Angel dictating to 
him.—581, Venus and Cupid!— 
582, a Philosopher in meditation ; 
and 583, the interior of a Trades¬ 
man’s dwelling; all by Rembrandt. 
585, a Wolf devouring a Sheep, 
by Rosa di Tivoli; the landscape 
in this picture was painted by 
Tempesta. — 587, Lot and his 


Daughters leaving Sodom, by 
Rubens.— 5S8, Elias succoured 
by an Angel in the Desert.— 5S9, 
the adoration of the Magi.— 590, 
the flight into Egypt.—and 591, 
the blessed Virgin and our Saviour 
surrounded with groups of Chil¬ 
dren ; all by Rubens ; as are 
twenty-four pictures, taken from 
the Luxembourg Palace, and re¬ 
presenting the life of Mary of 
Medicis. The first number is 597 ; 
and the most striking of these fine 
pictures are numbered 608, 611, 
617, and 6IS —the portrait of 
Richardot, numbered 621 —and 
the representation of a Village 
Fete, numbered 625 ! are likewise 
by Rubens.— 830, a Landscape, 
by Ruysdael, with Figures and 
Cattle, by Berghem !— 831, an¬ 
other Landscape, by Ruysdael, 
with Figures by Wouvermans!— 

632, a Tempest, by Ruysdael!— 

633, our Saviour at Emmaus, by 
Santwoort!— 634, the Holy Fa¬ 
mily, by Schalken !— 647, Ani¬ 
mals entering the Ark, by Sney- 
ders.— 851, a Kitchen, by ditto.— 
657, the inside of a Church, by 
Steenwick !— 669, the Tempta¬ 
tion of S. Anthony, by David 
Teniers. — 679, head of an old 
Man, by ditto. — 703, a Hare 
and other Game, by Weenix the 
younger.— 704, a Peacock, Game, 
and a Dog, by ditto ! —706, Pha¬ 
raoh’s Daughter finding Moses, 
by Adrian Vander-Werf! —70S, 
an Angel announcing to the Shep¬ 
herds the birth of the Messiah !— 
709, the Magdalene in the Desert! 
—and 711, Nymphs dancing ! all 
by Vander-Werf.— 718, an At¬ 
tack of Polish Cavalry, by Philip 
Wouvermans. 

Schools of Italy. No. 756, the 
Infant Jesus embracing S. John, 
by Albano.— 759, Venus impa¬ 
tient to try the effect of her beauty 


14 


PARIS. 


[Ch. I. 


on the heart of Adonis.—760,Vul¬ 
can reposing at the feet of Venus, 
while the Loves forge arms for 
the latter.—761, the Loves, while 
sleeping after their labours, disarm¬ 
ed by Diana’s Nymphs—762, the 
Loves after having recovered their 
losses, and become triumphant, 
conducting Adonis to the feet of 
Venus ; all by Albano.—778, the 
blessed Virgin and our Saviour 
listening to S. John, who is pre¬ 
sented to them by Elizabeth.— 
and 779, Charity ; both by Andrea 
del Sarto—794, the blessed Virgin, 
by the Cav. Batoni.— 804, the 
resurrection of Lazarus, by Boni- 
fazio.—S16, 817, and 818, views 
of Venice, by Canaletto.—820, the 
blessed Virgin dead, and the 
Apostles weeping, by M. A. Ca¬ 
ravaggio.—822, a young Woman 
telling a Youth his fortune, by 
ditto.—829, the Nativity, by An¬ 
nibale Caracci.—832, the blessed 
Virgin recommending silence to 
S. John, that he may not disturb 
the repose of our Saviour!—836, 
our Saviour ascending to Heaven, 
after his resurrection.—839, the 
Martyrdom of S. Stephen.—and 
840, the same subject, all by An¬ 
nibale Caracci.—852, the Infant 
Jesus and his Mother, by Lodo- 
vico Caracci.—858, S. Cecilia, by 
Cavedone.—863, Jesus presenting 
the ring for his mystic marriage, 
to S. Catherine of Alexandria, by 
Antonio Allegri, da Correggio !— 
865, Antiope asleep, Love sleeping 
by her side on a lion’s skin, and 
Jupiter standing near, transformed 
into a Satyr, by ditto!!—870, 
David vanquishing Goliath ; a 
double picture on the same sub¬ 
ject, by Daniello da Volterra c — 

(c) It said that Monsignor Giovanni della 
Casa, a Florentine prelate, employed Da¬ 
niello da Voltera, to model a group in 
plaster of David vanquishing Goliath; and 
then desired him to represent in painting, 


871, Jesus consecrating the bread, 
by Agnese Dolci.—875, a Land¬ 
scape representing the flight into 
Egypt, and attributed by some 
persons to Domenichino, and by 
others to Ann. Caracci.—878, S. 
Cecilia, by Domenichino 1—885, a 
Concert; attributed to Leonello 
Spada.—901, the Adoration of 
the Shepherds, by Spagnoletto.— 
907, Melancholy, by Domenico 
Feti 1—912 and 913, portraits of 
Benvenuto Garofolo, by himself.— 
916, a mystic subject, likewise by 
Garofolo.—917, a Landscape, by 
Gasparo Dughet, called Gasparo 
Poussin.—924, the Messiah ac¬ 
cepting the instruments of the 
Passion, by Luca Giordano!— 
931, a portrait of Guercino, by 
himself.—935, the blessed Virgin 
and S. Peter deploring the death 
of the Messiah.—and 943, Circe, 
both by Guercino.—947, the Sa¬ 
lutation, by Guido.—94S, the In¬ 
fant Jesus sleeping on his Mother’s 
knees.—951, Jesus and the Sama¬ 
ritan.—952, Jesus giving the keys 
of Heaven to S. Peter.—953, Jesus 
crowned with thorns.—956, Jesus 
in the Garden of Olives.—957, the 
Magdalene.—958, the same sub¬ 
ject.—and 962, an Allegory repre¬ 
senting the union of Design and 
Colour—all by Guido.—969, por¬ 
trait of Giulio Romano, by himself. 
—970, the Adoration of the Shep¬ 
herds, by Giulio Romano.—982, 
portrait of Monna Lisa, a cele¬ 
brated Florentine Beauty, by 
Leonardo da Vinci d —983, S. 
John Baptist!—984, S. Anne, 
the blessed Virgin, and Infant 
Jesus !—9S5, the Infant Jesus 
blessing S. John—all by Leonardo 
da Vinci. — 987, Jesus receiving a 

the two sides of the model; which seems 
to have been done in this double picture. 

(d) Francis I. of France gave for this 
picture 4,000 gold crowns ; a sum exceeding 
45,000 francs. 


PARIS. 


ir> 


Ch. I.] 

cross of rushes from S. John, 
School of Leonardo da Vinci e — 
990, the Holy Family, by Ber¬ 
nardino Lovini, more commonly 
called Luini.—991, the Messiah 
sleeping-, by ditto.—1001, the 
blessed Virgin shewing- the Mes¬ 
siah to the Angels and Shepherds, 
by Carlo Maratta.—1004, the 
marriage of S. Catherine, by ditto. 
—1015, the Infant Jesus, on his 
Mother’s lap, playing- with a chap¬ 
let, by Murillo !!—1016, God the 
Father, and the Holy Ghost, con¬ 
templating- the Messiah while he 
receives a cross of rushes from S. 
John!—1017, the Messiah on the 
Mount of Olives, presented by an 
Ang-el, with the Chalice and the 
Cross.—1018, S. Peter imploring- 
pardon of the Messiah.—and 1020, 
a young- Begg-ar seated !!—all by 
Murillo.—1027, the blessed Virgin 
and Joseph presenting the Infant 
Messiah to be adored by a Shep¬ 
herd, Palma Vecchio.-—1044, the 
Messiah sinking under the weight 
of his Cross, by Paolo Veronese.—• 
1058, the blessed Virgin, with 
the Infant Jesus and S. Martina, 
by Pietro da Cortona. —1060, 
Faustulus, the Shepherd of Amu- 
lius, presenting Romulus and 
Remus to his wife Laurentia, by 
ditto.—1071, portraits of RafFaello 
Sanzio d’Urbino, the Founder of 
the Roman School, and his Master 
Pietro Peruzino, by Raphael f — 
1073, portrait of Count Balthasar 
Castiglione. — 1076, the Arch¬ 
angel Michael vanquishing Satan. 
—1079, the Holy Family, called 
La belle Jardiniere ! —and 1080, 
the same subject, painted for 


Francis i. of France!!—all by 
Raphael, who finished the last- 
mentioned work only two years 
before his death.—1081, the In¬ 
fant Jesus reposing—and 1082, 
the Infant Jesus caressing S. 
John ; both by Raphael.—1094, 
a Sportsman shooting a bird, and 
Soldiers reposing on a rock, by 
Salvator Rosa.—1097, the Infant 
Jesus sleeping on his Mother’s 
knees, with Cherubim in the an¬ 
gles of the picture, by Sasso Fer- 
rato !—1098, the Apotheosis of 
the blessed Virgin, by ditto.— 
1099, head of S. John Baptist, 
by Schiavone.—1100, the Holy 
Family, by Schidone.—1104, the 
blessed Virgin visiting Elizabeth, 
by Sebastiano del Piombo.—1110, 
the Prodigal Son imploring his 
Father’s pardon, by Leonello 
Spada.—1116, portrait of Tinto¬ 
retto, painted by himself.—1122, 
portraits supposed to be those of 
Titian and his Mistress, painted 
by himself8.—1124, portrait of 
Cardinal Hippolito of Medicis.— 
1126, portrait of Alphonso d’Ava¬ 
los.—1127, portrait of a man 
dressed in black.—1131, another 
Portrait.—1132, the Soldiery in¬ 
sulting the Messiah at the door of 
his prison!!—1134, the Messiah 
carried to the tomb!—1135, the 
Pilgrims of Emmaus h .—1136, the 
blessed Virgin, the Infant Jesus, 
S. Stephen (the first Dalmatian 
martyr,) S. Ambroise, and S. 
Maurice!—1137, two Angels wor¬ 
shipping the Messiah.—1138, the 
blessed Virgin holding a rabbit, 
for which the Infant Jesus seems 
to ask.—and 1139, S. Agnes pre- 


( e) Leonardo da Vinci founded the Milan 
School. 

(f) According to some opinions this pic¬ 
ture represents Raphael and Pontormo,and 
was painted by the latter. 

(g) Titian (Vecellio Tiziano) was one of 
the Founders of the Lombard School. 


( h ) According to tradition, the pilgrim 
on the right of our Saviour represents the 
emperor Charles V.; the pilgrim on the 
left, Cardinal Ximenes ; and the page, Phi* 
lip II., of Spain. 


10 

senting her palm of martyrdom ! 
—all by Titian.—1150, the mar¬ 
tyrdom of S. Irene, by Francesco 
Vanni!—1152 .portrait of the In¬ 
fanta Marguerita Theresa, daugh¬ 
ter of Philip iv. of Spain, and 
of his consort, Maria-Anne of 
Austria, by Velasquez. 

Several pictures belonging to 
this magnificent collection have 
suffered considerably, from being 
ill-restored and over-varnished ; 
and several statues, belonging to 
the Museum of Sculpture, are, in 
appearance, still more hurt, by 
having been partially cleaned. 

Admission may usually be ob¬ 
tained, gratis, to the Musee Roy¬ 
al, every morning, holidays ex¬ 
cepted, from ten o’clock till four, 
by Foreigners; provided they 
shew their passports. Admission 
is given to the public in general 
every Saturday and Sunday, from 
two o’clock till four. 

Musee du Luxembo urg. These 
Galleries, formerly adorned with 
the works of Rubens and Le 
Sueur, (now removed to the Lou¬ 
vre,) are at present destined to 
receive the works of living Artists: 
and, in addition to the most ad¬ 
mired pictures of the three last 
Exhibitions, here are other cele¬ 
brated works of the modern French 
School. 

JEcole Royale des Beaux Arts, 
Rue des Petits Augustins, ci- 
devant Musee des Monumens 
Frangais. Monsieur Lenoir, to 
whom Paris was indebted for the 
last-named Museum, arranged, in 
chronological order, all the sepul¬ 
chral monuments he was able to 
rescue from the sacrilegious grasp 
of the infatuated leaders of the 
French revolution: thus exhibit- 

( i) The portfolio of Gaignieres, contain¬ 
ing a collection of the costumi of the 
French nation, from the days of Clovis to 


[Oh. 1. 

ing a series of memorials of the 
most distinguished characters to 
whom France has given birth, 
from the days of Clovis, to the 
present era: and, at the same 
time, forming a history ot the com¬ 
mencement and progress of sculp¬ 
ture, and the art of painting upon 
glass, among his countrymen. But 
since the re-establishment ot the 
monarchy, the tombs contained in 
this repository have been replaced 
in the churches whence they were 
taken ; and the remaining part of 
this interesting Museum is destined 
to enrich the Musee Royal. 

Bibliotheque du Roi, Rue de 
Richelieu. This Library, (per¬ 
haps the finest existing,) contains 
above eight hundred thousand 
printed volumes, seventy-two thou¬ 
sand manuscripts, five thousand 
volumes of prints, and a Cabinet 
of Antiquities, enriched with Isiac 
Tables, Pagan Deities, and the 
most rare and valuable collection 
of Medals in the world. The 
Gallery appropriated to the Manu¬ 
scripts is adorned with paintings, 
by Romanelli; and the Apartment 
next to the Cabinet des Estampes 
contains a portrait of King John, 
considered as the most precious 
relic of French painting in the 
fourteenth century*. This Li¬ 
brary is open to Students every 
day, festivals and vacation-times 
excepted ; and to other persons on 
Tuesdays and Fridays, from ten 
in the morning till two in the af¬ 
ternoon. 

Bibliotheque Mazarine, Palais 
des Beaux-Arts, Quai Conti .— 
This Library, which originally con¬ 
tained about sixty thousand vo¬ 
lumes, has lately been enriched 
with the Library of the Institute ; 

the present period, may be found among 
the prints. 


PARTS. 


17 


PARIS. 


Ch. I.] 

and possesses a fine terrestrial 
Globe, by Buaclie. 

Bibliotheque de S. Genevieve, 
Place S. Genevieve, Batimens 
da College Henri IV. This Li¬ 
brary contains an hundred and 
twelve thousand volumes ; and is 
adorned with Busts of distin¬ 
guished Characters ; among - whom 
are Jules Hardouin, Mansard, the 
Chancellor Letellier, bv Coyse- 
vox, and Doctor Arnauld, by Gi- 
rardon. Here likewise may be 
found a plan of Rome in rilievo, 
executed by Grimini, in 1776. 
This Library is open to the pub¬ 
lic every day from ten in the 
morning - till two, festivals and va¬ 
cation-times excepted. 

Bibliotheque de l' Arsenal, Rue 
de Sully, a l'ext remite du Quai 
des Celestins. This Library, sup¬ 
posed to contain an hundred and 
fifty thousand printed volumes, 
and five thousand manuscripts, is 
particularly rich in history and 
Italian poetry ; and open to the 
public every day, festivals and va¬ 
cation-times excepted, from ten in 
the morning - till two in the after¬ 
noon. 

Bibliotheque de la Ville , Place 
du Sanhedrin, dewier e l' IJotel- 
de Ville. This Library is open 
to the public every day, Thurs¬ 
days, festivals, and vacation-times 
excepted, from ten in the morn¬ 
ing - till two in the afternoon. 

Bibliotheque du JMuseed' Ilis- 
toire Naturelle, Rue du Jardin 
du Roi. This Library, particu¬ 
larly well stored with books rela¬ 
tive to natural history, and like¬ 
wise with herbals, and drawings 
representing plants, is open to 
the public on Tuesdays and Fri¬ 
days, from three in the after- 

(j) The Library of VEcole Poly tech¬ 
nique, that of I’Ecole <les Mines, and that 
of la (Jour de Cassation, are accessible to 


noon till dark, during autumn 
and winter ; and from four till 
seven, during spring and summer. 
Students are admitted on Mon¬ 
days, Wednesdays, and Satur¬ 
days, from eleven in the morning 
till two. 

Bibliotheque de la Faculte de 
Mkdecine , Rue de l Ecole de 
Medecine. This Library, rich in 
works on the art of healing, is 
open to the public, Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from 
ten in the morning till two j. 

31 usee d'Histoire Naturelle , 
et Jardin du Roi, Quai S. 
Bernard, et Rue du Jardin du 
Roi. The Botanic Garden, be¬ 
longing to this Museum, contains 
a large collection of plants from 
various countries ; together with 
buildings which serve as dens for 
wild beasts ; and a menagerie, so 
constructed that tame animals, 
not natives of France, and birds 
of all kinds and countries are pro¬ 
vided with habitations analogous 
to their modes of life : and in the 
midst of this appropriate spot the 
French naturalists have erected a 
modest monument to Linnaeus. 
The Amphitheatre of Anatomy 
stands in this garden ; as does 
the Museum of Natural History ; 
on the first floor of which is the 
finest collection of fishes in Eu¬ 
rope ; together with lizards, ser¬ 
pents, shells, minerals, fossils, &c. : 
and on the second floor the most 
magnificent assemblage imagin¬ 
able of Birds and Quadrupeds, 
preserved to admiration. 

The Botanic Garden is always 
open to the public, gratis ; the 
Museum of Natural History on 
Tuesdays and Fridays only, from 
three o'clock in the afternoon till 

Foreigners who apply for leave to visit 
them. 

■* 


C 


IS 


PARTS. 


five : and the Menagerie on Tues¬ 
days, Fridays, and Sundays, from 
two o'clock till seven, during the 
height of summer ; and from two 
till four, at other seasons. Ar¬ 
tists, and Students belonging to 
the Museum, are admitted from 
eleven in the morning till three 
in the afternoon. The tine 
bridge of Austerlitz, now called 
Pont du Jar din' du Roi, is a 
great ornament to the Botanic 
Garden. 

Academie Roycde de Musique , 
on lOpera; Rue Lepelleticr. 
This Theatre, which is spacious 
and sonorous, presents the most 
brilliant spectacle in Europe, 
with respect to scenes, machinery, 
dresses, accuracy relative to cos¬ 
tume, and excellence relative to 
the composition and execution of 
the ballettes represented. It is 
open on Sundays, Tuesdays, and 
Fridays. 

Theatre Frangais , Rue de Ri¬ 
chelieu. This Theatre is dedi¬ 
cated to the representation of 
French dramas. 

Theatre de I'Opkra Comique, 
Rue Feydeau. This Theatre 
contains two thousand two hun¬ 
dred spectators ; and is well cal¬ 
culated for music. 

Theatre de I'Odeon pres le 
Luxembourg. French dramas are 
represented in this Theatre. 

Theatre du Vaudeville , Rue 
de Chartres S. Honori. This 
Theatre generally exhibits a va¬ 
riety of little dramas, songs, &c. 

Theatre des Varietes , Roule- 
vard Montmartre. 

Ma n vfact 11 reR oyaledesGlaces, 
Rue de Reuilly. This Manu¬ 
facture is well worth notice; as 
it employs eight hundred work¬ 
men ; who have attained such 
perfection in their art as to make 


[Oh. I. 

Mirrors of 122 inches in length 
by 75 wide. 

Manufacture Royale des Ta- 
pisseries de la Couronne , aux 
Gobelins, Rue Monffetard. This 
Manufacture also is well worth 
notice : as it exhibits the most 
beautiful Tapestry existing; and 
may be seen every day, from ten 
till one o’clock. 

Colonne de la Place Vendume. 
This stately column, 133 Paris 
feet in height, and 12 in diameter k , 
is made of the cannon taken from 
the enemies of France, in the 
battles fought by Napoleon and 
his Generals: it represents those 
battles in bronze bassi-rilievi; 
and on its summit originally stood 
a colossal statue of the Emperor; 
which, after his dethronement, 
was taken down; and has, ac¬ 
cording to report, been carried to 
M oscow. A winding staircase of 
176 steps, leads to the top of this 
column ; from which the view of 
Paris is beautiful. 

Arc de triomphe de I'Etoile. 
On the 15th of August, 1S06, 
Paris began to erect this fine 
Arch, in order to perpetuate 
the fame obtained in Ger¬ 
many, by the French Armies, 
during the former year: it was 
intended to he 135 Paris feet in 
height; but unfortunately is not 
finished. 

Port S. Denis. The con¬ 
quests of Louis xiv., in 1672, 
induced the city of Paris to 
erect this magnificent triumphal 
Arch to perpetuate his fame. 
The bassi-rilievi represent mili¬ 
tary trophies, (remarkably well- 
executed,) personifications of Hol¬ 
land and the Rhine, the passage 
of the Rhine, and the taking of 
Maestricht. 

Port S. Martin . The eonti- 


(A) A Paris foot is nearly thirteen English inches. 


PARIS. 


19 


Ch. I.] 


nued success of Louis xiv., in¬ 
duced the city of Paris to erect, in 
1673, another monument to his 
fame: this Arch, though less 
adorned than that of S. Denis, is, 
in point of architecture, equally 
harmonious and dignified. The 
bassi-rilievi represent the taking 
of Besangon, the triple alliance, 
the taking of Limbourg, and the 
defeat of the Germans ; figured 
by the god of war repulsing an 
eagle. Great artists were em¬ 
ployed in executing both these 
Gates. 

Tribunal du Corps Legislatif. 
Opposite to the bridge of Louis 
xvi., rises a magnificent Peris¬ 
tyle, formed by twelve Corinthian 
columns surmounted by a trian¬ 
gular pediment: a superb flight 
of steps, adorned with colossal 
statues of Minerva and France, 
leads to the entrance of the build¬ 
ing ; and opposite the bridge are 
statues of Sully, Colbert, l’Ho- 
pital, and d’Aguesseau. This pe¬ 
ristyle forms the approach to the 
Hall of the Deputies. 

BasiliquedeNotre-Dame. This 
ancient edifice, surmounted by 
twin-towers of a majestic height, 
contains some good paintings of 
the French school, and a descent 
from the Cross (in sculpture) by 
the elder Coustou. 

Basilique de la nouvelle S. 
Genevieve , ou Le Pantheon. This 
elegant building, erected by com¬ 
mand of Louis xv., alterthe design 
of Soufflot, in the form of a Greek 
cross, is 340 Paris feet in length, 
peristyle inclusive, and 250 feet 
wide : in the centre rises a dome, 
nearly G4 feet in diameter, sup¬ 
ported within, and adorned with¬ 
out, by pillars, which produce a 

(l) The Church of S. Eustace is hold and 
light in point of architecture ; and the 
churches of S. Roch and S. Snlpiee, built 


pleasing effect. The exterior 
height of the dome is 282 feet; 
and the interior height of the 
nave 170 feet. The peristyle 
consists of 22 Corinthian columns 
58 feet high, and five and a half 
in diameter, supporting a trian¬ 
gular pediment. Under this 
church is a vast receptacle for 
the ashes of the great K 

Garde Meuble de la Couronne, 
Place Louis XV. This deposit 
for the furniture belonging to the 
crown, is worth notice. 

Hotel royal des Invalides. This 
edifice was erected by command of 
Louis xiv., as a retreat for old 
and deserving Soldiers of the 
French army; and exhibits a 
magnificence most honourable to 
its Founder. The dome, deemed 
a master-piece of architecture, 
was designed by Jules Hardouin 
Mansard ; and (measuring from 
the pavement to the cross on the 
top of the lantern) is 300 Paris feet 
high: the lead which covers it 
was origiiitilly gilt, by order of 
Louis xiv.; and re-gilt by com¬ 
mand of Napoleon. Round the 
interior of this dome are six cha¬ 
pels. In the great cupola Charles 
de Lafosse has painted the apo¬ 
theosis of S. Louis, and likewise 
the four Evangelists, placed be¬ 
tween the principal arches. J. 
Jouvenet has represented, on the 
ceiling, the twelve Apostles ; 
Boullongne painted the chapels 
of S. Jerome, S. Ambroise, and 
S. Augustin, in which the liistory 
of these Fathers of the Church is 
given ; and the Chapel of S. 
Gregoire, painted originally by 
Le Brun, has been retouched by 
Doyen. The ceiling of the Sanc¬ 
tuary, painted by Nicolas Coypel, 

about the middle of the eighteenth century, 
are handsome. 

C 2 


20 


PARTS. 


[Ch. I 


represents the mysteries of the 
Trinity, and the assumption of 
the Virgin. The groups of An¬ 
gels, forming concerts, in the em¬ 
brasures of the windows, are by 
Louis and Bon Boullongne. The 
inlaid pavement of the dome and 
chapels particularly merits notice. 
This building likewise contains 
the monument of the great Tu- 
renne ; who is represented dying 
in the arms of Victory ; while 
Wisdom and Valour stand on each 
side, deploring the loss of the 
Hero. In front is a bronze basso- 
rilievo of the battle of Turckeim ; 
and the only inscription on the 
monument is the word, “ Tu- 
renne.” The remains of Marshal 
Vauban have been honoured with 
a place near those of Turenne. 

The Hotel des Invalides, which 
gives shelter and comfort to seven 
thousand Veterans, is open to the 
public every day, from ten in the 
morning till four in the afternoon. 

Institution Roy ale des Sourds- 
Muets, Rue S.Jacques. The bene¬ 
volent idea of teaching the Deaf 
and Dumb to speak, was formed 
by the Abbe Epee, who, with a 
fortune of only twelve hundred 
livres per annum, maintained, at 
his private expense, forty scholars 
of the above description; and thus 
founded one of the noblest chari¬ 
ties in France: but all the sacri¬ 
fices he was compelled to make, in 
order to accomplish his purpose, 
would, at length, have proved 
fruitless, had not his talents and 
virtues been renewed in the Abbe 
Sicard, who brought the plans of 
his predecessor to such perfection, 
that he enabled the Deaf and 
Dumb, not only to read, write, 
and cast accounts, but likewise to 
understand turning, working in 
mosaic, drawing, and painting, so 
as to get their own livelihood: he 


also taught them French and Eng ¬ 
lish grammatically; geography, 
history, geometry, and metaphy¬ 
sics ; and, at the conclusion of 
every month, his Pupils had a 
public exhibition, to which Stran¬ 
gers were always admitted, on 
applying to the Director of the 
Establishment for tickets. 

HospicedelaSalpetriere, Bou- 
levard de IHopital pres le Jardin 
du Roi. This vast and well-re¬ 
gulated Hospital, nobly endowed 
by Louis xiv., and enriched by 
private contributions, is capable 
of containing nearly eight thou¬ 
sand persons; and receives females 
of all descriptions, incapable of 
earning their bread. 

Hopital des Enfans-trouves et 
Hospice de la Maternite , Rue de 
la Bourbe. The exemplary Vin¬ 
cent de Paul erected, in 1G40, a 
Hospital for Foundlings ; which 
was afterwards greatly assisted 
both by private and public bounty ; 
but, nevertheless, in 1792, out of 
eight thousand children, placed in 
this asylum, four thousand died ere 
they had attained their second 
year: and to check the course of 
this afflictive mortality, Monsieur 
Hombron conceived the happy idea 
of uniting the Mothers with their 
Children • and thus preserving 
both: ceasing, therefore, to make 
a lying-in Hospital of the Hbtel- 
I)ieu, the h rencli Government 
formed the Founding-Hospital in¬ 
to a double establishment ■ the one 
part for pregnant Women’ and the 
other for deserted Infants. 

Observatoire , Rue du Fau¬ 
bourg S. Jacques . This building 
was erected by the order of Louis 
xiv.; and has, of late years, been 
much improved in point of con¬ 
venience, and amply furnished 
with astronomical instruments. 

Palais du Temple, Except the 


Cli. I.] PARIS. 21 


Palace of the Grand Prieur, no¬ 
thing- remains of the edifice which, 
about the middle of the twelfth 
century, belong-ed to the Knights 
Templars ; and was given, after 
their abolition, to the Knights of 
Malta. The Palace of the Grand 
Prieur, however, has been repaired 
at a large expense, and is worth 
notice. 

Palais de la Bourse, Rue des 
Filles S. Thomas. Paris has long 
wanted an Exchange worthy of her 
riches and extensive commerce ; 
and this fine building, should it 
ever be finished, will do honour to 
its architect, Brongniard. 

Greniers de Reserve, Boule¬ 
vard Bourdon. This immense 
Storehouse for grain, whose ap¬ 
pellation alone bespeaks its im¬ 
portance, was begun in 1807; 
and, such is its size, that the ex¬ 
pense of materials and labour only 
has amounted to twelve millions 
of livres. 

Abattoirs, ou Tueries . Those 
buildings, constructed by the Ro¬ 
mans to give health to the ancient 
capital of the civilized world, were 
not more magnificent than the 
Abattoir or Slaughter-house of 
Mont Martre, situated at the top 
of the Rue de Rocheehouart: the 
length of the building being 1078 
Paris feet, and the breadth 385 feet. 
It contains a large number of courts, 
watered by the Ourcq, four sheep- 
pens, four ranges of stalls for oxen, 
commodious slaughter-houses, and 
ample storehouses for fodder, &c. 
The Abattoir de Popineourt, si¬ 
tuated in the Rue des Arnandiers 
S. Antoine, already boasts seven 
sheep-pens, and seven ranges of 
stalls for oxen. The Abattoir 
d'lvry, less vast, rises rapidly on 
the outside of the Barrier des 
Deux Moulins: the Abattoir de 
Vaugirard is likewise building 


on the Place de Breteuil, and pro¬ 
mises to equal the others in con¬ 
venience and extent. The Abat¬ 
toir du Roule is to be erected in 
the Plaine de Mouceaux, at the 
extremity of the Rue de Miro- 
menil. 

Halle au Ble, Rue de Viarmes 
The cupolaof this market, built in. 
1782, by Molinos and Legrand, was 
377 feet Paris in circumference ; 
and from the pavement to its sum¬ 
mit, 100 feet: it consisted of wood, 
placed in a hemispheric form, and 
apparently so slight, that it was 
impossible to contemplate this ex¬ 
traordinary piece of architecture 
without wondering how it held to¬ 
gether. After standing twenty- 
two years, it fell a prey to fire ; 
and has been restored on a plan 
wholly new, and particularly well 
worth observation, from rendering 
it invulnerable to the attacks of 
the element by which it was, in 
1802, destroyed. Great additions 
have likewise been made to the 
size of the market; which was, 
previously, too small for the con¬ 
sumption of the metropolis. 

Halle aux Vins, Quai S. Ber¬ 
nard. The ancient emporium for 
wines having fallen to decay, Na¬ 
poleon ordered the first stone of 
the present building to be laid on 
the 15th of August, 1811; and 
this immense edifice, constructed 
to hold two hundred thousand 
wine-casks, is divided into four¬ 
teen magazines, beside nearly an 
hundred cellars. 

Marche a la Volaille et au 
Gibier. Nothing can be more 
elegant of its kind, than this mar¬ 
ket ; which generally receives fresh 
supplies of game, &c., on Mon¬ 
days, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. 

Of the fifteen Bridges which 
are seen at Paris, the Pont-Neuf 
erected by Henry iv., is the long- 


PARIS. 


22 

est m ; the Pont de Louis XVI , 
the boldest with respect to design; 
and the Pont des Arts, and that 
of the Jar din du Roi, the most 
remarkable on account of their 
lightness, elegancfe, and arches ot 
iron. A fine new bridge, called 
that of Les Invalides , or L'Ecole 
Militaire , is now building. 

Fontaine de l'Esplanade du 
Boulevard de Bondi. The com¬ 
position of this fountain is simple ; 
the execution, good ; and the ef¬ 
fect produced by the water, falling 
in sheets from basin to basin, par¬ 
ticularly pleasing. 

Fontaine des Innocens. This 
fountain was erected in 1551, ac¬ 
cording to the designs of Lescot 
and Goujon ; and afterwards re¬ 
moved from its original situation, 
added to, and placed in the centre 
of the Marche des Innocens , 
where it now stands. 

Fontaine de Grenelle, Rue de 
Grenelle. This work, executed 
by Bouchardon, and erected in 
1739, is admired with respect to 
the sculpture and architecture ; 
but so sparingly provided with 
water, as to destroy the effect of 
the fountain, which is embellished 
with statues representing the city 
of Paris, the Seine, and the 
Marne. 

Fontaine de la Bastille. This 
magnificent fountain, designed by 
the emperor Napoleon, and, like 
too many of his works, unfinished, 
rises on the site of the Bastille, 
in a commanding situation ; and 
was to have been surmounted by 
an enormously colossal elephant, 
whose proboscis was to have dis¬ 
pensed the water. The model of 
this elephant may be seen in a 
building near the fountain. 

Cimetieres et Catacombes .— 
Paris exhibits no burial-grounds 


[Ch. 1. 

adorned with funereal monuments; 
the cause of which seems to have 
been, that the Possessors of riches 
and honours were entombed within 
the walls of consecrated buildings ; 
while the mortal remains of the 
Poor were thrown into the vast 
and common grave of the respec¬ 
tive cemeteries ; and even grudged 
a little earth to cover them. These 
receptacles of corruption, by con¬ 
stantly evaporating putrid air, 
produced epidemic maladies ; and 
thus punished the Living, for their 
want of piety toward the Dead : 
in 1773, therefore, the Parliament 
of Paris ordered the Cimetiere 
des Innocens (the largest and 
most noxious of these receptacles) 
to be closed: and, soon after, all 
the cemeteries within the city 
were closed likewise; though pride 
and interest still produced burials 
in the churches : the remains of the 
Poor, however, were transported, 
without scruple, from the ancient 
cemeteries, into vast and profound 
stone-quarries, on the outside of 
the city : and, during the revolu¬ 
tion, even the asylum of a church 
did not preserve the bones of the 
deceased from the touch of sacri¬ 
lege ; the remains of the prince, 
and those of the peasant, finding, 
in the before-named quarries, a 
common grave. In 1S04, Go¬ 
vernment empowered the friends 
of the deceased to erect monu¬ 
ments to their memory in the ce¬ 
meteries ; a circumstance which 
soon changed the aspect of these 
chambers of death. The hand¬ 
somest cemeteiy in the environs of 
Paris is that of Mont-Louis ; and 
here lie united all sorts and con¬ 
ditions of men ; Jews, Infidels, 
Papists, and Protestants, forming 
one common dust. 

To the south of Paris, under a 


(jn) The Statue of Henry IV. has been recently re-erected, on one side of the Pont-Ncuf. 


PARIS. 


23 


Ch. I.] 

spot called La Tombe Issoire , is a 
funereal receptacle of another de¬ 
scription. Nothing- above ground 
announces this abode of melan¬ 
choly ; which lies amidst vast 
stone-quarries; and is denomi¬ 
nated The Catacombs, from the 
resemblance it bears to burial- 
places so called at Rome and Na¬ 
ples. Since the year 180S, this 
spot has been the receptacle for 
all the human bones which, during- 
several ag-es, were accumulating 
in the cemeteries and suppressed 
churches within the walls of Paris. 
A dark staircase, just wide enough 
for one person, and penetrating- 
ninety feet under ground, leads to 
the principal g-allery, which admits 
two persons abreast. To the 
right and left are vaults of great 
extent: and that strangers may 
not lose themselves in this dan¬ 
gerous labyrinth, a black line has 
been traced on the roof of the 
principal gallery, to serve as a 
guide. Rocks jutting out, here 
and there, relieve the too great 
uniformity of this gallery ; which 
leads to another, called that of 
Port-Mahon, from containing a 
model of the last-named place, 
made by an old soldier who worked 
in the quarries, and was at length 
crushed to death, by an enormous 
stone which fell upon him. Pic¬ 
turesque and terrific rocks next 
meet the eye, and lead to a ves¬ 
tibule, at the end of which is a 
black door, the entrance to an 
apartment where millions of hu¬ 
man bones, forming a kind of mo¬ 
saic work, are placed in straight 
lines between the pillars which 
support the ponderous roof of the 
cavern ; whose walls exhibit, at 
intervals, religious sentences, de¬ 
scriptive of the immortality of the 
soul, and the blessings of the life 
to come. Here is likewise a small 


Chapel with an expiatory altar, 
on which are these words: “ Se¬ 
cond Septembre, 1792.” 

The environs of Paris contain 
a variety of objects that merit no¬ 
tice ; the most prominent of which 
are the following-: 

S. Cloud. The furniture of 
this royal Chateau (about two 
leagues from Paris, on the road to 
Versailles,) is peculiarly splendid 
and elegant; but its gardens do 
not merit attention, unless it be 
on the three first Sundays in Sep¬ 
tember, when waterworks are ex¬ 
hibited. 

Sevres. This town, which is 
very near S. Cloud, contains the 
celebrated manufacture of china, 
long deemed the most beautiful in 
Europe. 

Versailles. This is a fine epis¬ 
copal town, four leagues distant 
from Paris; and contains 28,000 
inhabitants: its royal Chateau 
was despoiled and deserted during 
the revolutionary government; but 
is now undergoing repair. The 
Ceilings and Theatre of this Pa¬ 
lace merit notice ; the Orangery 
is particularly beautiful; the Wa¬ 
ter-AVorks are celebrated; the 
Chateaux of Grand Trianon and 
Petit Trianon, (both in the 
grounds) are objects of curiosity ; 
and the public Library of the town 
deserves attention. 

I will now close my account of 
Paris by saying, that although it 
has gained much, during the last 
twenty years, in point of wealth, 
convenience, and external gran¬ 
deur, it has lost much, with respect 
to society ; there being so great a 
number of different political opi¬ 
nions among the Parisians, main¬ 
tained by each party with such te¬ 
nacity, that social intercourse is 
almost destroyed : indeed, the very 
character of the people seems 


24 

changed; for that constant gaiete 
de cceur, by which they were 
once distinguished, has given place 
to thoughtfulness, reserve, and 
discontent. They have, however, 
paid England the compliment of 
adopting her taste, with respect to 
laying out gardens, shrubberies, 
&c.: they have likewise profited 
by her agricultural knowledge ; 
and also adopted many of her 
inodes of life; insomuch, that 
Parisian ladies now walk about 
the city; which was never done 
heretofore: but on one point of 
etiquette they still differ widely 
from us ; as women of light cha¬ 
racter only are attended in their 
walks by livery servants. 

Paris, like Calais, has been 
ridded, within the last twenty 
years, of that multitude of Men¬ 
dicants who formerly filled its 
streets: and, if we may judge by 
appearances, there are but few in¬ 
dividuals of the French Nation 

(n) The trouble and detention, with re¬ 
spect to Passports, which frequently occurs 
at Paris, may be avoided, if a Traveller 
provide himself, previous to his departure 
from London, not only with the necessary 
Passport from the French Ambassador, but 
likewise with another, from the Sardinian 
Ambassador, if he purpose crossing cither 
Cenis, or the Estrelles; or, if he intend to 
cross the Simplon, from the Austrian Am¬ 
bassador. A Traveller, thus provided, is 


[Ch; I. 

who have any need, at present, to 
depend on alms tor their support. 

It is necessary that British Sub¬ 
jects, previous to leaving Paris, 
should go to the Sous-Prefecture , 
or General Police-Office, near the 
Pont-Neuf, to reclaim their Pass¬ 
ports ; which are usually taken 
from them at the frontier, and 
sent hither: this Office is open 
from nine in the morning till four. 
Hence, every Passport must be 
sent to the British Ambassador, 
(whose signature can only be ob¬ 
tained from eleven in the morning 
till one) ; then it must be taken 
once more to the General Police- 
Office, for the signature of the 
Ministre de linterieur ; and, 
lastly, to the Office of the Minis¬ 
tre des affaires etrangeres, where 
ten francs are paid for the official 
seal. Persons going into Italy 
should likewise have their Pass¬ 
ports countersigned by the Aus¬ 
trian Ambassador at Paris 11 . 

authorized to direct the Police-Office,either 
at Calais, or Boulogne, or any other French 
Port where he may land, to forward his 
Passport to the last Custom house in his 
road through France : he is also authorized 
to demand a provisional Passport; on 
shewing which, at the Pont de Beauvoisin, 
or any other Frontier Custom-house, whi¬ 
ther he may have ordered his original Pass¬ 
port to be sent, he receives that Passport 
again, and is thereby enabled to enter Italy. 


PARIS. 



CHAPTER II. 

SWITZERLAND, THE SIMPLON, MILAN, <V<\ 


Journey to Fontainebleau—State of the road from Paris thither—Royal Chateau at Fon 
tainebleau-—Sens—Joigny—Aux^rre—State of the road between the last-named town 
and Fontainebleau—S. Bris—Grottoes of Arcy—State of the road between Verman- 
ton and Lucy-le-Bois—Rouvray—Pont-de-Pany—Dijon—Description of that city— 
Genlis—Auxonne—Dole—Poligny—Military road over the Jura-Alps—French frontier 
Custom-house—Magnificent view on descending to Gex—Geneva—Description of that 
city—Lake of Geneva—Voltaire’s Villa at Ferney—Excursion to Chamouni, and the 
Mont-Blanc—Description of the military road from Geneva, and over the Simplon, 
to Domo-d’Ossola—Lago-Maggiore—Borromean Islands—Colossal Statue of S. Carlo 
Borromeo—Description of the road from Sesto-Calende to Milan—Triumphal Arch 
intended as a termination to the Simplon-road—Milan—Description of that city— 
Monza—Lodi—Custom-house near the Po—Piacenza—Description of that city—Parma 
— Description of that city—Reggio—Modena—Description of that city—Castel Franco 
—Custom-house there—Bologna—Description of that city and its environs—State of 
the road between Milan and Bologna—State of the road between Bologna and Florence 
•—Volcano near Pietramala— Country round Florence—Approach to that city. 


Being anxious to see the new 
military route, made over the Jura- 
Alps and the Simplon to Milan, 
and finding - that the road from Di¬ 
jon to the base of the Jura, though 
not good, was passable 0 , my friends 
and I determined to go that way 
into ItalyP. 

After quitting Paris, we crossed 
the Orge on a fine bridge, drove 
through the village of Essonne, 
seated on the Juine (observing the 
Seine at a little distance), crossed 
the Ecolle at Ponthiery ; and then 
drove through the village of Chailly 
to the immense forest of Fon¬ 
tainebleau; than which nothing 
can be more picturesque, nor, in 
some parts, more gloomily magni¬ 
ficent. On each side of the road 
are lofty ranges of grey rocks ; 
and at their very summits beeches, 

(o) From Auxonne to Poligny the road 
is, generally speaking, bad after a continu¬ 
ance of heavy rain ; though it has been so 
well repaired, subsequent to June, 1817, 
that when I repassed it, during May, 1819, 
I found it one of the best roads in France. 


and other trees, of an astonishing 
magnitude ; the richness of whose 
foliage, contrasted with the rude 
and barren appearance of the huge 
and shapeless masses of stone in 
which they vegetate, exhibits one 
of the most extraordinary scenes 
imaginable. 

After driving several miles, 
through this singular forest, we 
discovered, in its centre, the town 
of Fontainebleau ; and soon found 
ourselves housed at a comfortable 
inn, 1 Hotel de la Ville de Lyon ; 
where the charges are moderate ; 
a circumstance worth recollecting 
at a place famed for the rapacity 
of its innkeepers. 

The road, from Paris to Fon¬ 
tainebleau, is paved, and in ex¬ 
cellent condition: the royal cha¬ 
teau in the last-mentioned town, 

(p) The most profitable money Travel¬ 
lers can take from Paris into northern 
Italy is Napoleons; as they pass current 
for their full value throughout that country ; 
neither does any loss accrue from taking 
them into southern Italy. 


26 

merits notice ; as it contains 
magnificent apartments beautifully 
painted in arabesque ; splendid 
furniture; peculiarly fine speci¬ 
mens of Sevres china ; and some 
few good easel pictures ; among 
which is the blessed Virgin and 
Infant-Saviour, S. John, and Eli¬ 
zabeth, by Raphael. The Gallery 
contains a bust of Henry iv., said 
to be the best likeness extant of 
that great prince ; and, in the 
same apartment, are busts of Fran¬ 
cis i., Sully, Washington, and the 
celebrated Duke of Marlborough. 
In this Chateau, likewise, is a 
small mahogany table, on which 
Napoleon signed his abdication ; 
and which still bears marks of a 
penknife it was his custom, while 
thinking deeply, to strike into the 
table, or desk, he wrote upon. 

Fontainebleau is supposed to 
contain 9,000 inhabitants. 

On quitting this town, we re¬ 
entered the forest; and drove seve¬ 
ral miles, amidst scenery not un¬ 
like parts of the Pyrenees, to Fos- 
sard ; thence proceeding, by the 
side of the Yonne, to Villeneuve- 
la-Guiard% Pont-sur-Yonne, and 
Sens ; between the two last of 
which places the country is rich in 
vineyards. 

Sens, anciently the capital of 
the Sennones, contains 11,000 in¬ 
habitants, is seated at the con¬ 
fluence of the Yonne and the 
Vanne, and encircled by handsome 
promenades, and Roman works, 
which deserve the notice of anti¬ 
quaries. Its cathedral is adorned 
with fine painted glass, namely, 
two roses, the one representing 
Heaven, the other Purgatory 
(these are placed above the two 


[Ch.II. 

side-doors of the church); and the 
windows in the Chapels of S. Eu- 
trope and N. D. de Loretto, which 
were executed by J. Cousin. The 
Chapel of S. Savinien contains an 
excellent representation, in stucco, 
of a curtain ; and in the centre of 
the choir is a monument, by Cous- 
tou, erected to the memory of the 
unfortunate parents of Louis xviii. 
and embellished with statues of 
Religion, Immortality, Conjugal 
Love, and Time, whose mantle 
covers the Dauphin’s urn, and 
seems ready to envelop that of the 
Dauphiness ; she being alive when 
this monument was begun. The 
cypress wreaths are remarkably 
well executed, and the statues of 
Time and Religion much admired; 
especially the latter, but the shape 
of the monument wants elegance r . 

On quitting Sens we crossed 
the Vanne, driving through a fine 
valley watered by the Yonne ; the 
graceful sinuosities of which river, 
combined with the vineyards on its 
banks, greatly embellish this part 
of Franee. After passing through 
a magnificent avenue of poplars to 
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, a pretty 
town, containing a large, and, 
judging from the outside, a hand¬ 
some church, we reached Villeval- 
lier ; thence traversing a bold and 
picturesque country to Joigny s , 
anciently Joviniacum , built on 
each side of the Yonne, and joined 
together by a handsome bridge ; 
the circumstance, perhaps, from 
which it may derive its modern 
name. The Chateau here, erected 
by the Cardinal di Gondi, com¬ 
mands an extensive view ; and the 
adjoining church of S. Jean con¬ 
tains a curious Sarcophagus; on 


FONTAINEBLEAU—SENS. 


(?) A. good inn here, the Hotel de la (r) The best inns here are La Bouteille. 
i'ouchc. and L’Hotel du grand Cerf. 

(s) A good inn here, the Hotel des cinq Mincurs. 


27 


AUXERRE, &c. 


Ch. II.] 

the cover of which is a recumbent 
figure, apparently designed to re ¬ 
present our Saviour ; while sur¬ 
rounding three parts of the Sar¬ 
cophagus are several statues, which 
owing to their situation, appear 
gigantic. 

From Joigny we proceeded, 
through Bassou, to Auxerre 1 ; 
which is seated on the left bank of 
the Yonne, and contains 12,000 
inhabitants. It stands amidst wide- 
stretching vineyards; as do all the 
large towns in this part of France; 
and but for the extreme ugliness 
of Gallic architecture, when un¬ 
corrected by Italian taste, might 
be called a handsome city: its 
public edifices seem to have been 
considerably injured by the late 
revolutions: its Cathedral, how¬ 
ever, merits notice ; and contains 
fine painted glass. The three 
Gothic Churches of S. Pierre like¬ 
wise deserve attention ; as do the 
Quai-Conde, the Quai-Bourbon, 
and the Promenades. 

We found the road between 
Fontainebleau and Auxerre paved 
in some places, well-kept through¬ 
out, and peculiarly exempt from 
steep hills ; but, between the last- 
named town and S. Bris, it be¬ 
comes hilly, and continues so for 
several leagues. After quitting 
S. Bris, we proceeded to Verinan- 
ton u ; two leagues south of which 
are the celebrated grottoes of Arcy; 
and either from Vermanton, or 
Lucy-le-Bois x , the Post-master 
will allow his horses to go round 
by these grottoes, which contain 
fine stalactites; but cannot be seen 

(t) Here are good inns namely, Le Leo - 
yard, and L’Hotel de Beaune. 

(u ) L’Hotel de S. Nicholas is a good 
inn ; and there are others. 

(x) Lucy-le-Bois contains two inns, The 
Post-house, and The Hotel des Diligences. 

(»/) Two inns, Le Lion d'Or, and La 
Viile de Dijon. 


to advantage without the aid of 
torches ; and are, during winter, 
full of water, and at all times 
damp. Vermanton is seated on 
the right bank of the Cure ; and 
from this town to about one league 
beyond the next post (Lucy-le- 
Bois) the road, unless frequently 
repaired, becomes bad after heavy 
rain : a new branch, commencing 
near Lucy-le-Bois, has however 
been lately made to this road ; and, 
though longer, it should always be 
preferred to the old road, because 
harder and smoother. 

Having passed Avallony, which 
is pleasantly situated on the banks 
of the Cousin, and contains 5,500 
inhabitants, we proceeded, through 
an uninteresting country, to Rou- 
vray z ; thence driving by the side 
of the Cousin, and then crossing 
the Serein, on our way to Maison- 
neuve a , and Vitt,eaux b on the 
Brenne, which contains 2,000 in¬ 
habitants. After this, we tra¬ 
versed a hilly country, embellished 
with vineyards, to La Chaleur, 
(called Mal-nommee; it being a 
very cold place;) hence proceeding 
to Pont-de-Pany; and observing 
no objects that particularly de¬ 
served attention, till, on coming 
to a chateau, once magnificent, 
but now reduced to ruins, we were 
agreeably surprised to discover, 
at an abrupt turn of the road, 
beautiful Alpine scenery, continu¬ 
ing the whole way to the Post- 
house c at Pont-de-Pany, a bridge 
thrown over the Ouclie, near the 
head of the Canal of Burgundy. 
Hence we drove for a short time 

( z ) Two inns, L’Hotel de la Poste, 
which is remarkably good ; and L’Hotel 
du Raisin. 

(a) Inn, La Poste, and tolerably good. 

\h) Inn, La Poste, and good. 

(c) The Post-house at Pont-de-Pany is a 
tolerably good inn. 


28 DIJON—AUXONNE—DOLE. [Ch. II. 


between reeks and mountains; 
and then traversed a fine country 
to Dijon; passing - , as we ap¬ 
proached that town, some curious 
rocks on the left. 

Dij on (anciently Dibio ,) the ca¬ 
pital of Burgundy, and supposed to 
contain 21,600inhbitants is seated 
in a fertile plain, between the rivers 
Ouche and Suzon, and must for¬ 
merly have been handsome, but 
has suffered so severely from the 
late revolutions, that few of its 
public edifices now merit notice, 
except the spires of S. Benigne 
and S. Jean ; the former of which, 
375 Paris feet in height, is called 
the finest piece of architecture of 
its kind in Europe; the latter does 
not measure quite 300 Paris feet. 
The Promenade du Cours merits 
notice ; and on the City Gate, 
leading to Pont-de-Pany, is the 
Car of Victory, not long since 
placed there in honour of th<3 Duke 
d’Angouleme. Commerce appears 
to flourish at Dijon ; and wines, 
together with eatables of every 
kind, are particularly good; but 
the climate, to persons who suffer 
from a cold and cutting wind, is 
ungenial d . 

Soon after quitting this city we 
discovered the Jura-Mountains : 
and, on entering the next town, 
Genlis, observed, to the right, a 
chateau, said to belong to the 
Comtesse of that name, so much 
distinguished in the literary world 
by her writings for the use of 
young people. Genlis is a pretty 
village, adorned with neat houses, 
and a handsome bridge over the 
Norge e . Hence we proceeded to 
Auxonne, seated on the Sa6ne, 

( d ) Here are several inns,and the Hotel 
du Parc is a very good one. 

( e) Best inn, L’Hotel de Cote d’Or. 

(/) Inns, UHotel du grand Cerf, and 

very good ; L'Hotel de Mont-Jura . 


and containing 5,000 inhabitants*. 
A battle was fought in this neigh¬ 
bourhood, between the French 
and the Allies ; and bones of men 
and horses were, not long since, 
sufficiently discoverable to mark 
the field of action. 

The road is hilly to the next 
post, Dole: that town, built on 
the Doubs, was once strong, but 
Louis xiv. demolished its forti¬ 
fications. The College, one of 
the finest in France, the Prome¬ 
nade, called Le Cours, and the 
Canal of the Rhine, merit obser¬ 
vation : and near Dole are remains 
of the ancient Roman road which 
extended from Lyon to the banks 
of the Rhine s. On quitting Dole 
we crossed a wooden bridge, ac¬ 
cording to appearance recently 
erected ; and observed, both to 
the right and left, stone bridges 
broken down. After passing the 
rivers Doubs, Clause, Louve, and 
Cuisance, and driving through a 
particularly long and beautiful 
avenue of poplars terminated each 
way by a bridge, we arrived at 
Mont-sous-Vaudrey; thence de¬ 
scending, not rapidly, but almost 
constantly, to Poiigny, amidst 
corn-fields and vineyards. 

Poiigny is situated at the ex¬ 
tremity of an extensive plain, near 
the source of the Glantine, and at 
the base of the Jura ; it contains 
5,300 inhabitants h . 

On quitting Poiigny we began 
to ascend the Jura Mountains, 
through a fine road, constructed 
by order of Napoleon, to form part 
of the Grande Route militaire 
leading to the Simplon: and so 
judiciously are the ascents and de- 

Cs) Best inn at Dole, L’Hotel de la Ville 
de Paris. 

(h) Here are two inns, UHotel de Ge¬ 
neve, and L’Hotel du grand Cerf ; the 
former is the best. 


JURA MOUNTAINS. 


29 


Ch. II.] 

scents of this pass managed, that a 
drag-chain is seldom requisite even 
for heavy carriages, though be¬ 
tween Morez and Les Rousses the 
road, in some few places, would 
be rendered much pleasanter, and 
indeed much safer, by the addition 
of parapet walls. 

The base of the Jura presents, 
near Poligny, thorns, briers, goose¬ 
berry bushes, beech-trees,and enor¬ 
mous rocks of granite. The com¬ 
mencement of the ascent exhibits 
bold and beautiful Alpine scenery, 
together with a magnificent view 
of the vast and fertile plains of 
France : while not far distant 
from Poligny are picturesque ruins 
of a spacious convent, seated 
amidst rich vineyards, and encir¬ 
cled by luxuriant woods. Having 
reached the summit of the first 
ascent, and passed Boreau, where 
the rocks are strikingly fine, we 
traversed a comparatively tame 
country to Champagnole, a town 
of considerable size, situated on 
the right bank of the Ain *. Much 
of this town appears recently built, 
as indeed do the greater part of 
all the towns, villages, and pretty 
detached cottages on the Jura 
Mountains. At Champagnole we 
crossed the Ain ; thence proceed¬ 
ing through a country adorned 
with pasturages, cottages, villages, 
and woods, to a magnificent gal¬ 
lery, cut through the side of lofty 
rocks clothed with firs to their 
summits ; while opposite to this 
gallery rise woods and mountains 
still more elevated ; and in a deep 
dell, at the base of the road, runs 
a torrent, whose waters further on, 
at the bridge of Doinbief, form a 

(i) Here are two small inns, namely, The 
Hotel de Geneve, and The Hotel de Lyon , 
at either of which travellers might break¬ 
fast or dine, but they would be comfortless 
sleeping-places. 

( k ) Maison-neuve contains an inn where 


beautiful cascade. Continuing our 
course through wild and sublime 
scenery, we reached a romantic 
village, called Maison-neuve k ; 
beyond which, to the left, among 
woods of peculiarly beautiful firs, 
are rocks worth notice, on account 
of their whimsical shape. Having 
passed another village, and driven 
through a fine grazing country, 
bounded by woods, we crossed the 
Pont-de-Leme, and arrived at 
S. Laurent 1 . The road from 
Champagnole hither is excellent, 
and, generally speaking, a gradual 
ascent; and no sooner does the 
winter-snow begin to disappear in 
this country, than the hedges and 
pasturages are adorned with such 
a variety and profusion of beauti¬ 
ful flowers as no other part of the 
Alps can boast. 

Quitting S. Laurent, we re¬ 
crossed the Leme, driving amidst 
cottages and pasturages to ano¬ 
ther magnificent gallery, cut 
through woods of beech and fir, 
and terminated by a plain. Hence 
we descended for five miles, be¬ 
tween rocks and mountains, cloth¬ 
ed with beeches, to Morez, a con¬ 
siderable town, seated on the river 
Bienne, and close to a brawling 
torrent, called Le Bief de la 
Chaille, in a valley so narrow as 
merely to admit two rows of houses 
and the street which divides them. 
The mountains that form this val¬ 
ley rise almost perpendicularly, 
like walls of a stupendous height, 
and give Morez the appearance 
of being entombed in the lowest 
dell of the Alps; it contains, how¬ 
ever, some good houses, together 
with 1,200 inhabitants 111 . Here 

travellers might breakfast or dine, but it is 
not a sleeping-place. 

( l ) Inn, La Poste, and very comfort¬ 
able. 

(m) Inn, La Poste, and very comfort¬ 
able. 


30 


JURA MOUNTAINS. 


we were obliged to continue nearly 
two days, because our passports 
had neither been signed by the 
Austrian Minister at Paris, nor 
the French Minister of the Inte¬ 
rior ; nor yet at the gates of the 
different cities through which we 
had passed. In vain I urged that they 
had been granted by the French 
Ambassador in London, expressly 
for the purpose of enabling us to 
travel through France to Italy, 
and that we never were asked to 
show them at the gates of the ci¬ 
ties through which we had passed ; 
in short, after consulting every 
person in the town who seemed 
capable of giving advice with re¬ 
spect to this vexatious detention, 
we were compelled to send one of 
our servants fifteen miles, through 
a dangerous road, to the Sub- 
Prefect of the district, entreating 
him to let us proceed: and though 
our petition was immediately and 
most handsomely granted, we, 
nevertheless, found, in all the re¬ 
maining part of our journey, great 
inconvenience from the want of 
Austrian passports ; and this, in¬ 
deed, is not surprising, as the Em¬ 
peror of Austria may now be call¬ 
ed the Ruler of Italy. 

Having obtained leave to quit 
Morez, we proceeded to Les Rous- 
ses, by a steep ascent, parallel 
with a noisy torrent, and between 
immense rocks, above which tower 
the mountains of Rezoux and 
Dole n , resplendent with snow, 
while the near prospect presents 
Alpine trees, shrubs, and flowers. 
This road, for some miles beyond 
Morez, is too narrow to be per¬ 
fectly safe either in the dark, or 
after heavy rain. 

Having passed Les Rousses, 
which contains the frontier cus- 

(«) The Dole rises 3948 Paris feet above 
the level of the Lake of Geneva, and is one 


[Cli. II. 

tom-house of France, where, how¬ 
ever, on quitting that kingdom, 
travellers meet with no detention, 
we traversed several valleys to 
La Vattay ; thence proceeding to 
Gex°, through a magnificent road, 
or (more properly speaking) gal¬ 
lery, which passes under a deep 
archway hewn out of a granite rock; 
and exhibits, for nearly a mile, 
an upper gallery made to catch 
the earth and stones, which are 
continually falling from the more 
elevated parts of the Alp. On the 
descent stands the Fontaine Na¬ 
poleon, bearing an inscription 
nearly obliterated. 

This side of the Jura is embellish¬ 
ed with luxuriant pasturages, neat 
cottages, and noble woods of beech 
and fir, which clothe its summits : 
but what particularly arrests the 
attention of travellers on descend¬ 
ing toward Gex, is a prospect, 
abruptly presented to their view, 
of the Pays de Vaud, the Lake of 
Geneva, and the stupendous Gla¬ 
ciers which surround it ; a pros¬ 
pect so perfectly unique, rich, beau¬ 
tiful, and sublime, as neither to 
be described nor imagined; and 
all I shall say of it is, that I am 
persuaded there are few persons 
who would not think themselves 
recompensed for almost any de¬ 
gree of fatigue by seeing this pros¬ 
pect to advantage. 

Having passed Gex, and the 
villa once belonging to Voltaire at 
Ferney, we entered Geneva; cross¬ 
ing, on the way to our hotel in 
that city, two bridges, whose 
arches are bathed with the waters 
of the lake, which, under the ap¬ 
pellation of the Rhone, continue 
their course through France to the 
gulf of Lyons. 

Geneva, said to contain near 

of the loftiest summits of the Jura Alps. 
(o) Best inn, Les Balances . 


GENEVA. 


31 


Ch. II.] 

30,000 inhabitants, and anciently 
a strong- town, belonging- to the 
Allobrog-es, is delightfully situated 
on the immense lake which bears 
its name, and divided into unequal 
parts by the Rhone. It possesses 
fewer public buildings worth no¬ 
tice than almost any other large city 
of Europe : but this deficiency is 
counterbalanced by the fine views 
from its ramparts, and the pecu¬ 
liar richness and beauty of its en¬ 
virons ; which boast a consider¬ 
able number of handsome villas, 
and a great variety of delightful 
walks, rides, and drives. 

The public Library, open every 
Tuesday morning from one till 
three, merits notice ; as it con¬ 
tains rare and curious books ; and 
an ancient Roman silver shield, 
adorned with bassi-rilievi, and 
found in the bed of the Arve, 
during the year 1721 p. The Hy¬ 
draulic Machine, which supplies 
the fountains of the city with wa¬ 
ter, likewise merits notice q. 

The Leman, or Lake of Ge¬ 
neva, anciently called Lemanus , 
is computed to be about nineteen 
leagues in length, and between 
three and four in breadth at the 
widest part, near Rolle : it abounds 
with fine fish, and its banks are 
said to be visited by forty-nine 
kinds of birds. 

The object generally thought 
best worth notice, in the imme¬ 
diate vicinity of Geneva, is Vol¬ 
taire’s villa at Ferney ; which 
house, since the death of its first 
owner, has had many masters ; but 
they have all deemed it sacrilege 
to change any thing: and conse¬ 
quently the rooms are furnished 

(p) The Library belonging to Paschoud, a 
la grande Rue, Iso. 205, where most of the 
European newspapers may be found, con¬ 
tains a large collection of books. 

(q) The best hotels in the city of Geneva 
are, Les Balances and U Ecu de. Genic e; 


just the same as when he died. 
On entering the hall my attention 
was caught by a large picture, 
composed by Voltaire himself, and 
executed by a wretched artist 
whom he met with at Ferney. That 
Voltaire was the vainest of men I 
have always heard ; but that any 
man could have the overweening 
vanity to compose such a picture 
of himself, is scarcely credible. In 
the fore-ground stands this cele¬ 
brated philosopher, holding the 
Henriade, which he is presenting 
to Apollo, who has just descended 
from Olympus, in order to receive 
it: in the back-ground is the tem¬ 
ple of Memory, toward which flies 
Fame, at the same time pointing 
to the Henriade.—The Muses and 
Graces are surrounding Voltaire ; 
and seem in the act of carrying his 
bust to the temple of Memory— 
the heroes and heroines of the 
Henriade are standing astonished 
at his wonderful talents—the .au¬ 
thors who wrote against him are 
falling into the infernal regions, 
which gape to receive them and 
their works ; while Envy and her 
Imps are expiring at his feet: the 
family of Calas likewise is exhi¬ 
bited in this picture. From the 
hall we entered a handsome saloon, 
ornamented with a bust of Vol- 
taire ; and a design in china for 
the tomb of a lady, supposed to 
have died in child-birth, but who 
was, in fact, buried alive: it re¬ 
presents the lady and her child 
bursting through the tomb ; which 
is broken by the artist in so natu¬ 
ral a manner, that one feels ready 
to exclaim, “ What a pity it is 
that this beautiful monument has 

at the latter of which the charges are mode¬ 
rate, the dinners well served, and the beds 
good ; but the smells in this house render 
it unpleasant. We paid three francs a head 
for dinner at the Ecu de Genkve. 


32 


CHAMOUNf. 


met with an accident.” In Vol¬ 
taire's bed-room are portraits of 
his friends ; and the vase wherein 
his heart was placed, before its re¬ 
moval to Paris : this monument is 
of black marble, plain, but neat; 
and immediately under that place 
which contained the heart is writ¬ 
ten ; “ Mon esprit est partout, et 
mon cceur est ici.'" Over the vase 
is written ; “ Mes manes sont con¬ 
soles, puisque mon cceur est au 
milieu de vous alluding - , I pre¬ 
sume, to the surrounding - por¬ 
traits ; namely, Frederic the Great 
of Prussia; Le Kain, the cele¬ 
brated French actor; Catherine n. 
of Russia ; and Madame du Chas- 
telet. Voltaire himself is in the 
centre ; and in various parts of the 
room are Newton, Milton, and se¬ 
veral other great men, both Eng¬ 
lish and French. 

After resting ourselves, for a 
day, at the Hotel d'Angleterre, 
at Seeheron, one of the best inns 
on the continent, and about a quar¬ 
ter of a league from Geneva, we 
hired a landau and four horses for 
three days, in order to visit the 
celebrated Valley of Chamouni, 
and see as much of Mont-Blanc as 
is practicable during so early a 
part of summer as the commence¬ 
ment of June r . At five o'clock, 
therefore, on a cloudless and de¬ 
lightful morning, we set out from 
Seeheron ; drove through Geneva 
the moment the gates of that city 
were opened s , and almost imme¬ 
diately entered Savoy ; finding the 
road good, the ascents gentle, the 
country abounding with corn, vine¬ 
yards, and fruit-trees ; rosemary 
and barberry-bushes growing in 
and near the hedges, and beeches, 

(r) A Swiss cabriolet, called un cliar-1 - 
banc, is an excellent carriage for this ex¬ 
cursion ; because it can go the whole way 
to Chamouni; which a coach or post- 


[Ch. i r. 

mingled with firs, crowning the 
heights. At the distance of half 
a league from Geneva, we passed 
through Chene ; and, one league 
further on, discovered, in profile, 
the Saleve ; passing, soon after, 
the chateau of Mournex, and the 
hill and chateau of Esery. We 
then crossed the Menoge, a river 
which rises at the base of the Voi- 
rons ; traversed the villages of 
Nangi and Contaminc ; and saw, 
towering above us, the ruins of 
the castle of Fossigny. 

Our first stop was at Bonne¬ 
ville ; rather a large town, con¬ 
taining two inns ; either of which 
can furnish a good breakfast and 
delicious honey. After baiting our 
horses for an hour and a half, we 
resumed our journey ; crossing the 
Arve on a stone bridge, 500 feet 
in length, passing through the 
small town of Cluse, and then 
traversing the delightful valley of 
Maglan, rich in corn, vineyards, 
and fruit-trees, enamelled with 
flowers, and encircled by enor¬ 
mous and fantastically shaped 
Alps, crowned with woods of 
beech and fir, and exhibiting the 
most wild and picturesque scenery 
imaginable. These Alps seemed 
gradually to increase in magni¬ 
tude as vve advanced ; while the 
glens, through which our road lay, 
gradually grew narrower. Three- 
quarters of a league beyond Ma¬ 
glan we perceived, on our left, a 
magnificent cascade, called Nant- 
d’Arpenas, falling from a height of 
SOOfeet; and, shortly after, we were 
presented with a view of Mont- 
Blanc, which continues to exhibit 
its awful and stupendous beauties 
the whole way to Chamouni. We 

chaise cannot. 

( s ) The gates of Geneva are usually opened 
about five in the morning, during summer, 
and shut at ten in the evening. 


CHAMOUNI. 


Ch. II.] 

now saw the town of Salenche, 
seated near a noisy torrent, at the 
base of cultivated mountains, above 
whose lofty summits rise pyramids 
of eternal snow. Leaving this 
town on our right, we drove to 
S. Martin, and found there a good 
inn, the Hotel de Mont-Blanc , 
containing a considerable number 
of beds, and commanding a par¬ 
ticularly fine view of that part of 
the mountain denominated the 
Dome du GoutL This inn like¬ 
wise contains a small cabinet of 
natural history for sale. 

From S. Martin, or Salenche, 
to Chamouni, is a journey of six 
or seven hours ; which can only 
be accomplished on foot, on horse, 
or mule-back, or in a char-a-banc: 
we therefore left our Geneva car¬ 
riage at S. Martin, where we slept; 
hiring, instead, a char-a-banc , at 
eighteen French livres per day ; 
three mules, at seven livres each 
per day ; and three Guides, at six 
livres each per day ; beside the 
driver of the char. Our Guides 
were Jean Riant, Vinence Riant, 
and Colas Dufour ; and we found 
them all civil, careful, and intelli¬ 
gent. 

At a very early hour in the 
morning we left S. Martin ; and 
not long after crossed the Nant 
Sauvage, a dangerous torrent when 
swollen with rain: generally speak¬ 
ing, however, the road, though 
rough, is safe ; but the aspect of 
the country between S. Martin and 
Servoz, particular spots excepted, 
is wild and gloomy ; though here, 
and indeed throughout our whole 
excursion, we saw an infinite num¬ 
ber of flowers, intermingled with 
barberry and rosemary-bushes. On 
approaching the village ot Chede, 
we crossed another delicious plain ; 
and passed through several ham¬ 
lets, which, in times of civil dis¬ 


33 

cord, afforded shelter to the an¬ 
cient Romans. The magnificent 
cascade of Chede is about a quar¬ 
ter of a league from that village ; 
and the lake of Chede, situated 
near the road, though small, is 
pretty, and serves to reflect on its 
bosom the majestic summits of 
Mont-Blanc, which is easily dis¬ 
tinguished from its neighbours by 
being the only triple-headed mon¬ 
ster among them. 

Proceeding to the beautiful and 
fertile v,alley of Servoz, we could 
not behold, without shuddering, 
the ruins of an Alp, which, in its 
fall, menaced this luxuriant spot 
with destruction ; insomuch that 
the inhabitants fled precipitately ; 
though not quick enough to pre¬ 
vent some of their children from 
being crushed to death: and the 
dust produced by rocks thrown 
violently against each other, led 
people at first to imagine that this 
terrific crash of nature proceeded 
from the eruption of a volcano. 

We breakfasted at Servoz, a 
small village containing one soli¬ 
tary inn, somewhat like a hedge- 
alehouse in England, but where 
good honey and eggs may be pro¬ 
cured, and likewise good coffee. 
Continuing our route, we passed 
a stream called the Servoz ; and 
then, crossing the Arve on a 
picturesque bridge, discovered, to 
our right, the ruins of the Cha¬ 
teau de S. Michel; and, to our 
left, an abyss, where, impaled in 
jagged rocks of the most sombre 
hue, interspersed with fir-trees, 
flows the Arve, exhibiting a scene 
sublime even to horror. After 
ascending some way, by the side 
of this ravine, we at length en¬ 
tered the far-famed valley of Cha¬ 
mouni ; first observing the glacier 
of Taeonai; then, that of Bos- 
sons ; and, at a distance, that of 

D 


CHAMOUNI. 


34 


[Ch. II. 


Bois ; then traversing the torrent 
of Nagin, the hamlet of Ouche, 
the torrents of Gria, Taconia, and 
Bossons, and the Arve, previous 
to our arrival at the town of Cha- 
mouni. This town owes its ex¬ 
istence to a convent of Bene¬ 
dictines, founded, in 1099, by a 
Count of Geneva ; but the valley 
in which it stands might probably 
have been unknown at the present 
period, if two English gentlemen, 
Messrs. Windham and Pocock, 
had not, in the year 1741, disco¬ 
vered it; and given to modern 
Europe details respecting a place 
which even the Natives of Geneva, 
though only eighteen leagues dis¬ 
tant, had never heard of. It is 
situated three thousand one hun¬ 
dred and seventy-four feet above 
the level of the Mediterranean 
sea, and contains two inns, both 
tolerably good. 

The verdant clothing of the sin¬ 
gular valley of Chamouni is beau¬ 
tifully contrasted with cloud-cap¬ 
ped mountains, silvered by eternal 
snow; gloomy forests, chiefly com¬ 
posed of firs ; cottages and ham¬ 
lets scattered here and there; 
brawling torrents, and rocks of 
red porphyry and granite, inter¬ 
spersed with glaciers of a dazzling 
whiteness, whence rise sea-green 
pyramids of ice, which, when illu¬ 
minated either by the sun or moon, 
exhibit a prospect unique and won¬ 
derful ; but, nevertheless, so much 
has been said in praise of this val¬ 
ley, that I own I felt disappointed 
on seeing it. 

The botanist and mineralogist 
may find ample amusement at Cha¬ 
mouni : and here, as at S. Mar¬ 
tin, there is, for sale, a cabinet 
of natural history, containing mi¬ 
nerals of Mont-Blanc and S. Go- 
thard; seals, necklaces, fyc., made 
of the crystal of Mont-Blanc ; to¬ 


gether with insects and plants in¬ 
digenous to the higher Alps. The 
honey of Chamouni is excellent. 

Every part of the valley pre¬ 
sents a view of Mont-Blanc ; this 
gigantic Alp, primeval with a 
world whose several changes it 
has quietly witnessed, is said, by 
Mr. de Luc, to be fifteen thou¬ 
sand three hundred and three Eng¬ 
lish feet, and, by Monsieur de 
Saussure, seventeen thousand se¬ 
ven hundred Paris feet, above the 
level of the Mediterranean sea: 
while the crust of snow, on its 
sides and summits, is supposed to 
exceed four hundred feet in depth. 
The first persons who ever reached 
the top of this stupendous moun¬ 
tain, seem to have been Jacques 
Balmat, of Chamouni, and Doctor 
Paccard: they went in the year 
17S6, and in 17S7 were followed 
by Mons. de Saussure and an 
English Gentleman. Without as¬ 
piring so high as to think of fol¬ 
lowing their steps, we felt a great 
inclination to ascend to the Met¬ 
tle Glace : but, on inquiry, it ap¬ 
peared that the Montanvert, which 
leads to the Met- de Glace , was 
so much clogged with snow, 
and threatened by avalanches, as 
to be impassable: our Guides, 
however, assured us, that, by 
mounting the Chapeau , a giddying 
eminence opposite to Montanvert, 
we might obtain the gratification 
of our wishes, so far as to see the 
Met- de Glace ; though we could 
not, by that path, reach it. Taking 
a hasty dinner, therefore, at Cha¬ 
mouni, we ordered our mules and 
char-a-banc ; bidding the Guides 
provide the customary walking- 
sticks at Chamouni, which are six 
feet in length, with a sharp iron 
spike at the end of each. We then 
mounted our char , attended by 
the Guides; who, when seated on 


35 


CHAMOUNf. 


Ch. n.] 

their mules, and armed with our 
spear-like walking-sticks, very 
much resembled knights-errant of 
old; though not arrayed quite 
comme il faut for a tournament. 
We drove during half an hour 
through a good road, but were 
then obliged, owing to the ra¬ 
pidity of the ascent, to leave our 
carriage, and mount the mules: 
these animals conveyed us safely 
through a dirty hamlet, and up 
part of the Chapeau, till the road 
became so rugged, and the ascent 
so very steep, that we deemed it 
more prudent to trust to our own 
feet than those of the mules ; and, 
each of us taking the arm of a 
guide, we pursued our way by 
walking at the extreme edge of 
terrific precipices, through a path 
so rugged, that nothing but the 
spiked sticks, with which we pe¬ 
netrated the ground at every step, 
could have prevented us from fall¬ 
ing. By perseverance, however, 
we attained the wished-for height, 
and discovered, immediately above 
us, the Mer de Glace , though not 
that part which exhibits an une¬ 
qual surface, but the smooth mar¬ 
gin, whence descends an immense 
glacier; opposite to which we 
stood a full half hour, listening to 
the noise of distant and near ava- 

( t) Persons who visit Chamouni at the 
proper season for ascending the Montan- 
vert, should engage careful and judicious 
guides ; and likewise hire a porter to carry 
cold provisions and wine. Ladies some¬ 
times go part of the way in chaises-h-por- 
teur ; for each of which it is requisite to 
have six chairmen ; but good walkers had 
much better trust to their feet. 

It being a work of full three hours to 
ascend the Montanvert, and then descend 
to the Mer de Glace, it is advisable to set 
out from Chamouni by seven in the 
morning. For about one league and a 
quarter, there is a safe mule-road, passing 
through forests of firs, which exhibit traces 
of ancient avalanches, enormous blocks of 
granite, and large trees laid prostrate; but 
on entering a narrow and rugged path, 
called Le (Jhemin des Crystalliers, it is 


lanches, which the stillness of the 
scene rendered doubly audible, 
and contemplating the extraordi¬ 
nary appearance of the glacier, 
which I can compare to nothing 
but a narrow and tempestuous 
ocean, whose towering waves have 
been suddenly rendered motion¬ 
less by an All-powerful Hand. 

Our journey to and from the 
Chapeau occupied three hours and 
a half: we therefore returned late 
to Chamouni: and, after having 
entered our names, and made our 
remarks in the travellers’ book, 
which is a curious composition, 
we rested a few hours ; and then 
set out early next morning for 
Geneva, under a sky perfectly se¬ 
rene and cloudless. 

From Chamouni to Servoz we 
were three hours in returning— 
from Servoz to S. Martin three 
and a half—from S. Martin to 
Bonneville four—and from Bon¬ 
neville to Geneva three and a half. 

The price charged for dinner, 
at S. Martin and Chamouni, is 
five francs a head—for beds, two 
francs a head—and for breakfast, 
two francs and a half per head. 

There is a mule-road, nine 
leagues in distance, from Cha¬ 
mouni to Martigny, which leads 
to S. Bernard and the Simplon l . 

no longer practicable to go on mules : here, 
therefore, these animals are usually sent 
back to the Source of the Arveron. The 
view near a little Fountain, called he 
Caillet, merits notice ; as the Arve, in the 
plain beneath, appears, from this elevated 
spot, like a thread ; the Bourg like card- 
houses ; and the fields and meadows like 
the squares of a chess board, or beds in a 
flower-garden embellished with various 
shades of green. Beyond this fountain the 
road is excessively steep and rugged, 
though not dangerous ; and after passing 
the Hdpital de Blair, built by an Eng¬ 
lish Gentleman pf that name, the Traveller 
is presented with a sight of the Mer de 
Glace ; to reach which, occupies a full 
quarter of an hour ; and persons who ven¬ 
ture to walk upon its surface should be 
especially careful to avoid the cracks and 

D 2 


33 


ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 


Having determined to pursue 
the shortest route from Geneva to 
the Simplon, by passing through 
Savoy ; instead of going round 
by Lausanne, and the Pays de 
Vaud ; we set out for Cologny ; 
traversing a fine road, bordered 
with fruit-trees, corn-fields, and 
vineyards, and bounded by the 
Jura Mountains on the right, and 
the Lake of Geneva, with its stu¬ 
pendous glaciers, on the left. 
We then crossed a bridge, which 
marks the limits between the ter¬ 
ritories of Geneva and Savoy ; ob¬ 
served a finely situated old castle, 
and discovered Cenis, with great 
part of the lofty chain to which 
that Alp belongs. On arriving at 
Dovaine in Savoy, where the cus¬ 
tom-house officers expect to be 
fee’d by travellers, we had our 
trunks plumbed, in order to se¬ 
cure them from examination; and 

chasms with which it abounds : the colour 
these chasms assume is a beautiful sea- 
green ; and the waves of this frozen ocean, 
which from the top of Montanvert ap¬ 
pear like furrows in a corn-field, are now 
discovered to be hillocks from twenty 
to forty feet high. The Mer de Glace 
is eight leagues in length, and one in 
breadth; and on its margin rise pyrami- 
dical rocks, called Needles, whose sum¬ 
mits are lost in the clouds ; they likewise 
are denominated the Court of their august 
Sovereign, Mont-Blanc; who glitters, on 
the opposite side, in stately repose; and 
being far more exalted than her attendants, 
veils in the heavens, which she seems to 
prop, a part of her sublime and majestic 
beauties. From the Mer de Glace tra¬ 
vellers usually reascend the Montanvert, 
and dine either at V Hopital de Blair, or 
Ba pierre des Anglais; an immense 
block of granite, so called because Messrs. 
Windham and Pocock, in 1741, made it 
their dinner-table, after they had pene- 
trated,'without a guide, into these unknown 
regions. Hence is the descent to the 
Source of the Arveron, through the Che- 
min des Chevres ; a short but extremely 
rugged path; on pursuing which it is not 
uncommon to see avalanches fall from 
the surrounding mountains, and pyramids 
of ice tumble with a tremendous crash and 
roll to the bottom of Montanvert, at 
whose base is the Source of the Arveron ; 
after examining which, travellers usually 


[Oh. 1L 

then proceeded to Thonon 1 '; the 
road to which place exhibits a 
particularly fine view of the Lake, 
encircled by the Pays de Vaud, 
the Jura, the plains of Savoy, and 
the great Alps; and winds through 
a country abounding with corn 
and vines, trained in the Italian 
manner, from tree to tree. 

Thonon, the ancient capital of 
the Duchy of Chablais, is plea¬ 
santly situated on the Lake. The 
site of the castle merits notice ; 
and at a small distance from the 
town is the Convent of Ripaille. 
Hence we drove to Evian (cele¬ 
brated for its mineral waters ;) 
crossing the Dranse, on a long 
narrow bridge, apparently built 
by the ancient Romans: but what 
especially charmed us in this part 
of the road, was the bold and va¬ 
ried outline presented by the Alps; 
together with the picturesque ruins 

re-mount their mules, and return to 
Chamouni. 

The inhabitants of this country are well¬ 
looking, sensible, honest, and remarkably 
fearless. The woods are peopled with rab¬ 
bits, white hares, martens, and ermines ; 
the rocks with marmots and the sagacious 
chamois. These last-named animals live 
together in flocks : and generally feed in 
valleys where no sportsman can penetrate; 
while a few are constantly detached from 
the main body, as scouts ; and others per¬ 
form the duty of sentinels. The courage 
and agility with which the chamois leaps 
from precipice to precipice,and scales rocks 
almost perpendicular, should teach the 
boldest Alpine Travellers not to feel vain 
of their achievements. 

Persons who wish to vary their route 
back to Geneva, may return by the Col de 
Balme ; from whose summit the Valais, 
the Rhone, the great and the small S. Ber¬ 
nard, the passages of Cenis and the Sim¬ 
plon, S. Gothard, and the Alps of Berne 
and Unterwalde,are all discoverable ; while 
the sublimity of this extensive view is 
greatly heightened by a near prospect of 
Mont-Blanc and her surrounding Needles. 
I would, however, rather advise travellers 
to return by Six, Samoens, and Thonon ; 
whence it is easy to embark upon the Lake’, 
and proceed to Geneva. Going all the 
way by land, the distance is fifteen leagues. 

(u) Inn, Les Balances, and not very 
comfortable as a sleeping place. 


37 


ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 


Ch. II.] 

of an ancient castle, beautifully 
surrounded with woods of inter¬ 
mingled walnut and cliesnut trees. 
Soon after passing this ruin, our 
road conducted us to the very 
brink of the Lake, shaded by trees 
of the before-named description ; 
the town of Morge being exactly 
opposite ; and, still further to the 
left, that of Lausanne. A fish¬ 
ing-boat, rowed by women and 
children, and a vessel laden with 
wood for Geneva, gave additional 
interest to this delightful scene. 

Continuing our course by the 
side of the Lake, we reached the 
rocks of Meillerie* (immortalized 
by Rousseau;) which exhibit strik¬ 
ing proofs of the obstacles pre¬ 
sented, by nature, to the forma¬ 
tion of the new military road made 
by Napoleon, and cut through 
masses of stone 200 feet high; 
which tower on one side, above the 
traveller; whilst, on the other, rise 
two walls, the first serving as a 
parapet, the second strengthen¬ 
ing the foundations of the road, 
and preventing them from being 
washed away by the Lake, on 
whose bed they rest. Near S. Gin- 
goux a gorge in the mountains, 
(which are here broken into forms 
indescribably wild and magnifi¬ 
cent,) discovers the source of the 
Amphion, celebrated for the be¬ 
fore-named mineral waters, which 
enrich Evian. Vevey is seen on 
the opposite shore. S. Gingoux 
belongs to the Valais; and the 
post-house, a good inn which con¬ 
tains twenty beds, is situated beau¬ 
tifully, near the termination of 
the Lake, where it loses itself in 
the Rhone. Immediately after 
leaving S. Gingoux we noticed 
some pretty streamlets; which, as 

(x) A fish, called the Lotted Meilleric, 
is much admired by epicures. 


they trickle down the rocks, form 
themselves into crystallizations. 
Pursuing our way to Vionnaz, we 
found the prospects gradually in¬ 
crease in sublimity as we ap¬ 
proached the Alps, at whose feet 
the road winds in the most pictu¬ 
resque manner possible, amongst 
well-planted orchards enamelled 
with flowers. From Vionnaz we 
proceeded to S. Maurice; cross¬ 
ing a wooden bridge, curiously 
constructed, with a roof somewhat 
resembling such as are used in 
England to cover farm-houses ; 
and thrown over one of the most 
noisy and rapid torrents I ever 
beheld. We then passed a hermi¬ 
tage, which had long presented 
itself to view, and particularly 
attracted our notice, from its ro¬ 
mantic situation on a lofty emi¬ 
nence crowned by woods, with a 
majestic mountain forming a vast 
screen behind them. The Rhone 
shortly after discovered itself; 
adding much to the interest of 
the scenery ; as its opposite shore 
presented bold overhanging rocks, 
richly adorned with foliage ; while 
before us rose a magnificent stone 
bridge, two hundred feet in length, 
and a Roman work; one end being 
bounded by a tower, now con¬ 
verted into a chapel, and the other 
by a castle, through part of which 
the road to S. Maurice has evi¬ 
dently been cut, and now passes 
over a draw-bridge. This town 
is placed in a peculiarly wild and 
beautiful situation, at the base of 
a long chain of rocks ; some of 
which are excavated to form houses. 
The only antiquity I heard of at 
S. Maurice is a curious mosaic 
pavementy. The Theban Legion 
was massacred near this spot by 

(y) S. Maurice contains a remarkably 
good inn, L* Hotel dc V Union. 


38 


ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 


order of the Emperor Maximian. 
On our way hence, to Martigny, 
the country at first presented no 
striking objects, except the Dent 
du Mi<fi, and the Dent deMorcles, 
(two Alps which rise seven thou¬ 
sand feet above the level of the 
Rhone,) and at a distance Mont- 
Velan and Mont-Valsoray, which 
make part of the group of the 
Grand S. Bernard, and rise 
more than ten thousand feet above 
the level of the sea. We had not, 
however, driven long amidst this 
Alpine solitude, ere our road con¬ 
ducted us to the bottom of a mag¬ 
nificent Cascade, called The Pis- 
sevache ; and formed by a river, 
named the Salanche, falling from 
an immense height, though not 
above an hundred feet perpendi¬ 
cularly. This cascade is illumi¬ 
nated, in the forenoon, by the 
sun; and displays all the colours 
of the rainbow: but, after twelve 
o’clock, these terrestrial rainbows 
cease ; while the river, broken by 
its fall, seems transformed into a 
brilliant sheet of gauze, with which 
it veils the rocks from whose sum¬ 
mits it rushes. 

Report says that, at the top of 
this cascade, are frequently found 
trout; which could in no way get 
thither, but by leaping, or rather 
flying upward. 

Not far distant from the Pisse- 
vache we passed the Pont du 
Trient, exhibiting a rivulet that 
issues from a remarkable opening 
in the rocks ; the two sides of 
which, thus divided by the stream, 
are quite perpendicular, and 
nearly twelve hundred feet high. 

Martignv, seated near the en¬ 
trance of the great Valley of the 
Rhone, where the roads from 


[Ch. II. 

France, Italy, and Chamouni 
meet, was a well-built and flou¬ 
rishing town, till nearly destroyed 
by a sudden and dreadful inunda¬ 
tion of the Dranse; which oc¬ 
curred not long ago. Liberal 
Subscriptions, however, from the 
benevolent inhabitants of the 
neighbouring countries, have ena¬ 
bled the people of Martigny to 
rebuild several of their houses, 
which were thrown down and 
swept away ; and likewise to re¬ 
pair other ravages caused by the 
inundation. There is an old for¬ 
tress here, separated from the 
town by the Dranse, which issues 
from the adjacent mountain of S. 
Bernard, and unites its waters 
with those of the Rhone near this 
spot. The valley of the Rhone 
is the most extensive in Switzer¬ 
land ; as from the Alps of La 
Fourche, where it commences, 
to the Lake of Geneva, where it 
terminates, is thirty-six leagues. 
Two excellent wines are made 
near Martigny, the one called 
Coquempin, and the other La 
Marque ; and a great variety of 
rare plants may also be found in 
this neighbourhood 2 . 

On quitting Martigny, to pro¬ 
ceed through Riddes to Sion, we 
drove, for a short time, between 
steril rocks and mountains: but 
the face of the country soon 
changed, exhibiting luxuriant 
pasturages, vineyards, villages, 
churches, oratories, and remains 
of ancient castles: indeed, this 
approach to Sion, through the 
Valley of the Rhone, displays the 
height of cheerful beauty, united 
with almost every object that may 
be called sublime: the flat ground 
is intersected with rivers, and 


(s) La grande Maison at Martigny is a good inn; and La Cigne, though 
small, is clean and comfortable. 


Ch.IL] ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 


enriched by cultivation ; the near 
mountains are studded with villas, 
and other building’s, of a dazzling¬ 
whiteness ; and the horizon is 
bounded by Alps of an enormous 
magnitude, blanched with eternal 
snow. 

Sion, anciently Sedunum , and 
in German Sitten, the capital of 
the Haut-Valais, and built partly 
on the rig-ht bank of the Rhone, 
and partly on the river Sitten, is 
a very old Swiss Bishoprick ; and 
contains several convents, six 
churches, a hospital, and an hotel 
de ville. The town stands on the 
declivity of three hills; each being- 
crowned by a Castle: in the lower¬ 
most, called Mayoria, or Meyer- 
bourg, the Bishop usually resides: 
the second bears the name of Va¬ 
leria ; and the third, called Tour- 
billon, contains portraits of all 
the Bishops of Sion since the year 
300. Several Roman antiquities 
are discoverable in this town; 
among which, and near the great 
door of the cathedral, is a half- 
etfaced inscription in honour of 
Augustus 21 . Above Sion, to the 
right, and seated on rocks difficult 
of access, are the castles of Seon 
and Montorges ; objects particu¬ 
larly calculated to attract the at¬ 
tention of a landscape-painter: 
and, on the opposite side, in the 
Commune of Bremes, is a curi¬ 
ous Hermitage, comprehending a 
church and cloister, with several 
cells, all hewn out of the solid 
rock. Near Sion flows the river 
Morges, which marks the limits 

(a) Le Lion d’Or is a good inn ; and 
La Croix blanche, though less good, is 
tolerable. 

(b) I have observed that women who 
carry heavy burdens on their heads are 
generally afflicted with this malady ; not 
only in the neighbourhood of the Alps, 
but in other situations where the height of 
the mountains is, comparatively speaking, 


between the Haut and Bas-Va- 
lais. 

From Sion we proceeded to 
Sierre, through a beautiful coun¬ 
try, rich in vineyards and pastur¬ 
ages, and watered by the Rhone. 
Sierre, seated on the banks of the 
stream whose name it bears, is 
one of the prettiest Bourgs of the 
Haut-Valais: but its inhabitants 
are particularly liable to goitrous 
swellings; owing, it is said, to the 
unwholesomeness of the water 
they are compelled to drink b . 
German is the language spoken 
at Sierre, and throughout the 
Haut-Valais. After quitting Si¬ 
erre, we crossed the Rhone, tra¬ 
versed the forest of Finges, and 
passed the town of Leuck, behind 
which opens the gorge of the 
Dala, and part of the lofty and 
steril Mont-Gemmi. We then 
drove to Tourtemagne c ; on ap¬ 
proaching which we were pre¬ 
sented with a view of the whole 
chain of Alps that connects the 
Simplon and S. Gothard: but the 
country, as the valley narrows, 
becomes marshy and barren. 
Within half a mile of the hotels 
at Tourtmagne, but not in the 
high-road, is a Water-fall, less 
magnificent than the Pissevache, 
though more beautiful in point of 
situation, and well worth notice. 

Hence we drove to Viege, in 
German Visp, or Vispack, stand¬ 
ing on the banks of the Visp, a 
river equal in size with the Rhone; 
and, beyond the bridge which 
crosses the Visp, towers the sum- 

moderate : and I am, therefore, inclined 
to think, that goitrous swellings may some¬ 
times originate from a strain given to the 
throat by an over-burden carried on the 
head. 

(c ) In German, Turtmann. Here are 
two inns, Le Soleil and Le Lion (POr, 
the former of which, though small, is clean 
and comfortable. 


•io 

mit of Mont-Rose. From Viege 
we proceeded to Brigg: for though 
Glise is the regular post, Brigg, 
(a post-town likewise,) is the bet¬ 
ter stopping place, and not more 
than half a mile out of the great 
road. Soon after quitting Viege, 
we passed Gambsen, and the en¬ 
trance to the valley of Nantz ; 
crossing a torrent, called the Sal- 
tine, near which the country is 
marshy ; and then traversing the 
bed of the Rhone, till our arrival 
at Brigg d , one of the handsomest 
towns of the Haut-Valais, and 
situated opposite to the base of 
the Simplon ; the lower part of 
which exhibits luxuriant mea¬ 
dows, interspersed with fruit and 
forest-trees, oratories, and cot¬ 
tages ; while the heights are 
adorned with hermitages, cas¬ 
cades, and noble woods of fir. 

To the left of Brigg is the 
pretty village of Naters, washed 
by the Rhone, which descends 
from the summits of the Fourche 
•and the sombre valleys of the Axe. 
This river receives, in the vicinity 
of Brigg, the waters of the Sal- 
tine, which come from the Sim¬ 
plon, together with those of Kelch- 
back, which descend from the 
Belp-Alp and the Blatten. The 
adjacent mountains abound with 
deep dells; and, to the north, rise 
the rocks of Nesthorn, and part 
of the Upper-Glacier of Aletsch. 

In order to appropriate an en¬ 
tire day to the passage of the Simp- 
plon, anciently called Mons Ccepi- 
onis, or Sempronii, and one of the 

( <1 ) The Post-House at Brigg is a com¬ 
fortable inn; as is The Hotel d'Angle- 
tbrrc. 

( e) As this is the shortest practicable 
route from German Switzerland and the 
Haut-Valais into the Milanese, it has al¬ 
ways been the track pursued by the Milan 
Courier ; though frequently at the peril 
of his life; for the earthquake of 1755, 
which destroyed Lisbon, nearly blocked 


[CIi.IL 

loftiest of the Italian Alps, we 
slept at Brigg; and set out with 
the dawn next morning, equally 
favoured in point of weather as 
during our expedition to Mont- 
Blanc. The journey, either from 
Glise or Brigg, over the Simplon 
to Domo-D’Ossola, a distance of 
fourteen leagues, generally occu¬ 
pies about twelve hours. The 
new military road, planned by 
Napoleon, in 1S01, was finished 
in 1805, at the joint expense of 
the kingdoms of France and Ita¬ 
ly 6 : its breadth throughout is 
twenty-five Paris feet; the num¬ 
ber of bridges, thrown across the 
rocks, is fifty ; and the number of 
grottoes, (chiefly hewn out of so¬ 
lid masses of granite,) five: and 
so gradual, on both sides of the 
mountain, is the inclination of 
this wonderful road, thfit to drag 
the wheels, even of heavy carri¬ 
ages, is needless. The work was 
conducted, on the side of the 
Haut-Valais, by French Engi¬ 
neers ; and, on the Italian side, 
by the Cavaliere Giovanni Fab- 
broni; who, though long distin¬ 
guished for devoting his eminent 
abilities to the service of his coun¬ 
try f , has, in this instance, ex¬ 
ceeded himself; as, beside every 
other impediment, he had Hercu¬ 
lean difficulties to surmount even 
in the soil; for he was compelled 
to pierce through, and blow up, 
the hardest and most refractory 
rocks existing; while the French 
Artificers, generally speaking, 
met with no obstacle, except 

up this passage of the Alps ; so that Na¬ 
poleon found it needful to employ three 
thousand men between three and four years 
in constructing the new road. 

(/) To this gentleman Florence owes the 
celebrated anatomical wax-work which 
enriches the Museum of Natural History 
in that city: though the invention was 
ascribed to the Cav. Fontana, 


ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 


41 


PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 


Ch. II.] 

masses of slate, in many places 
already decomposed £. 

This road is the only passage 
of the Alps which human labour 
has made practicable for heavy 
wagons a ndartillery : and, when 
we contemplate the stupendous 
height of the Simplon, the nu¬ 
merous and appalling’ precipices 
with which it abounds, the im¬ 
petuous torrents which delug-e its 
sides, and the tremendous ava¬ 
lanches by which its woods are 
frequently rooted up, and its rocks 
overthrown, we cannot but ac¬ 
knowledge that Men who, in defi¬ 
ance of obstructions such as these, 
could form a road exempt even 
from the appearance of danger, 
capable of braving the most furi¬ 
ous storms, resisting the giant- 
hand of Time, and conducting 
human beings, cattle, and every 
kind of carriage, quickly and 
safely, during all seasons of the 
year, through regions of eternal 
snow, deserve, in point of genius, 
to be ranked not only with, but 
even above, the ancient Romans; 
whose works of this description, 
surprising as they are, can, in no 
instance, vie with the descent into 
Italy, from the cloud-capped vil¬ 
lage of Simplon to the rich vale 
of Domo-D’Ossola—and yet, to 
the shame of the nineteenth cen¬ 
tury, nations inimical to France 
attempted, at the close of the last 
dreadful war, to destroy the para¬ 
pet-walls, and burn the bridges— 
in short, to annihilate the road— 
happily, however, these acts of 
barbarism have hitherto done no 
material mischief; but, unless the 
Glacier gallery and grotto be 
cleared of snow, toward the com¬ 
mencement of every summer, as 

(g) The quantity of gun-powder used in 
blowing up the rocks, to form the road on 


was the practice during the reign 
of Napoleon, this eighth wonder 
of the world, this universal benefit 
to Europe, will ultimately be ren¬ 
dered useless. 

But to return to the description 
of our journey: after taking a 
cross-road from Brigg, to get into 
the great military route,- we pass¬ 
ed, on the right, one of the first 
works of the ascent to Simplon ; 
a bridge thrown over the Saltine ; 
andconsisting of a lofty and beauti¬ 
ful single arch, covered, at the top, 
to preserve from rain the timber of 
which it is composed. We then 
passed on the left a chapel, with 
several small oratories leading to 
it; and began to ascend, by bold 
and beautiful windings, to a dark 
forest of firs ; the openings of 
which presented us with views of 
the Valley of the Rhone, encircled 
by snow-crowned Alps ; their gi¬ 
gantic Empress, Mont-Blanc, 
proudly towering above them all; 
and, in consequence of her enor¬ 
mous height, appearing close to 
us, though really far distant. En¬ 
grossed by the sublimity of the 
scene, we continued to ascend, 
almost imperceptibly to ourselves ; 
till, on traversing precipices whose 
bases are washed by a roaring- 
torrent, we discovered, with sur¬ 
prise, that we had attained an 
eminence which hindered us from 
distinguishing the sound of its 
brawl. 

This part of the road is cut 
through crumbling rocks ; and in 
order to prevent the loose frag¬ 
ments above from falling upon 
travellers, broad paths are made 
in the upper-part of these rocks, 
to catch whatever may be thrown 
down, either by tempests, or cas- 

the Italian side of the Simplon, is said to 
hav Veen 17,500 pounds. 


42 


PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 


cades, or avalanches ; while the 
road itself is supported by a strong- 
wall of granite, varying in height 
according to the inequalities of 
the ground upon which it rests ; 
and in some places measuring two 
hundred feet. 

After reaching what is called 
the first Gallery, (though, in fact, 
the whole road might properly be 
denominated a continued series 
of serpentine galleries and grot¬ 
toes, rising one above the other, 
and united by stupendous arches 
of the most chaste and elegant 
construction;) we crossed the 
Kanter on a bridge eighty feet in 
height; and so built, as to be in¬ 
capable of receiving any injury 
from the annual melting of the 
winter-snow ; there being, at cer¬ 
tain distances, cavities, through 
which the water discharges itself, 
without hurting the work: and 
this judicious plan is likewise pur¬ 
sued with respect to all the para¬ 
pets and foundation-walls. 

Fine cascades and beautiful 
glens alternately presented them¬ 
selves to view, till we reached, in 
four hours from the time of our 
departure from Brigg, the third 
Refuge; where we breakfasted. 
These Refuges, placed at short 
distances from each other, in the 
most exposed situations on the 
Simplon, are small buildings, 
meant to shelter men, cattle, and 
carriages, in case of sudden 
storms ; and numbered “ 1st Re¬ 
fuge,” “ 2d Refuge,” fyc .; an 
appellation particularly well cho¬ 
sen, as its meaning is the same 
in almost every modern language. 

After passing the third Refuge, 
we observed an infinite variety of 

( h) The Cantonniers , instituted by Na¬ 
poleon to keep this route in repair, have 
been cruelly reduced in number by the 
King of Sardinia; although the tax irn- 


[Ch. II. 

Alpine flowers growing amidst 
lawns of turf, short and soft as 
velvet; we then crossed the bridg¬ 
es of Oesback and the Saltine, 
(near the former of which is a 
magnificent cascade ;) and, soon 
after, entered a Grotto thirty 
paces in length ; leaving to our 
left the Glacier of Kaltwasser, 
from which descend four cascades, 
whose waters traverse the route, 
in aqueducts of a masterly con¬ 
struction, and then precipitate 
themselves into chasms below. 
Continuing to ascend through 
easy, bold, and beautiful sinuosi¬ 
ties, we reached an eminence ex¬ 
posed to violent gusts of wind, 
where trees cease to flourish, and 
flowers no longer enamel the 
earth ; and where a recent ava¬ 
lanche has rooted up and blighted 
firs and larches, and suspended 
them on each other, over the 
yawning abyss underneath, in a 
manner we shuddered even to 
contemplate. 

Not far distant from this picture 
of desolation is the Glacier Grotto, 
fifty paces in length; on coming 
out of which, we ascended to the 
most elevated point of the whole 
passage; and found ourselves 
on every side surrounded by 
eternal snow. Here, and here 
only, that is immediately previous 
to entering, and immediately after 
quitting the Glacier Grotto, the 
road was bad; not, however, in 
consequence of any radical defect; 
but merely because the Canton¬ 
niers had neglected to clear the 
snow away h . On the right of 
this spot we discovered, beneath 
us, the ancient Hospice, now peo¬ 
pled by Monks belonging to the 

posed for their maintenance is still paid 
at the barrier. Voituriers pay ten francs 
per horse. 


43 


Ch.lL] PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 


Grand S. Bernard ; and, on the 
left, above us, the magnificent 
foundations of the new Convent 
and Barracks. We then passed 
the bridge of Senkelbach; and 
descended to the village of Sim¬ 
plon ; noticing, on our way, a 
vast reservoir of water ; one part 
of which flows down into Italy, 
while the other irrigates France, 
by forming a ramification of the 
Rhone. 

From the third Refuge to the 
sixth, which stands at the most 
elevated point of the passage, 
near the Barrier, we were two 
hours in going ; and thence, to the 
inn at Simplon, half an hour. 
This inn is situated three thou¬ 
sand two hundred and sixteen 
Paris feet above the level of the 
Mediterranean sea: but neither 
here, nor even while passing the 
Glacier Grotto, and the heights 
beyond it, (which are four thou¬ 
sand six hundred and ninety Paris 
feet above the level of the Medi¬ 
terranean,) did I experience the 
slightest sensation of cold: the 
day, however, (as has been al¬ 
ready noticed,) was especially fa¬ 
vourable; affording us continual 
sunshine, without one gust of 
wind; — agremens seldom met 
with by the Alpine Traveller. 

After dining on delicious trout 
at the village of Simplon S a little 
hamlet encircled by the summits 
of the enormous Alp whose name 
it bears; we set out to descend 
into Italy, through a pass which 
exhibits scenes it would be vain 
to attempt particularizing, as they 
beggar description. 

The commencement of the de¬ 
scent exhibits, on each side, lofty 
and barren rocks, with a consi¬ 


derable space between them ; and, 
on the left, a thundering torrent: 
but, soon after quitting the vil¬ 
lage of Simplon, we found these 
rocks gradually approach each 
other, becoming perpendicular, 
and scarcely leaving sufficient 
space for the road. 

Having crossed the bridges of 
Lowibach and Kronbach, we ar¬ 
rived at Steig; where the union 
of the Khronbach and the Quirna, 
which descend the glacier of Lavin 
through a gorge in the rocks to 
the right, form the river Vedro, 
or Diverio, whose wild and impe¬ 
tuous course the road follows, till 
within a short distance of Domo- 
D’Ossola. About a league and a 
half from Steig is an isolated 
inn; soon after passing which, we 
entered a narrow ravine, and 
crossed the river several times, by 
means of stupendous bridges, till 
we came to the third Grotto, 
eighty paces in length; after 
quitting which, we approached the 
magnificent cascade of Frissinone; 
whose waters precipitate them¬ 
selves from a rock so high that 
they seem lost in aether ere they 
reach the foaming bed of the Di¬ 
verio which receives them. After 
passing this cascade, we entered 
the fourth Grotto, deemed the 
most wonderful work of the Sim¬ 
plon ; it being two hundred and 
two paces in length, lofty in pro¬ 
portion, and cut, with exquisite 
taste and skill, through solid rocks 
of granite. Scarcely had we pass¬ 
ed this grotto, before a sudden 
turn of the road presented us with 
another cascade, formed by the 
torrent which issues from the 
gorge of Zwischbergen, and falls 
perpendicularly and with such 


{/) The iun here, Le Soleil, is particularly good; anil travellers are, I be¬ 
lieve, likewise received at L’Hospice. 


44 NORTHERN ITALY—LAGO MAGGfORE. [Ch. If. 


clamorous violence close to the 
Traveller, that, startled and 
alarmed by the scene, we felt for 
a moment, as if it would be im¬ 
possible to proceed with safety. 
Below the gloomy village of Gon- 
do is a chapel which marks the 
Italian coniine ; and further still 
are the Italian hamlets of S. Mar¬ 
co and Isella; at the latter of 
which Travellers are visited by 
Milanese custom-house officers, 
for the purpose of obtaining mo¬ 
ney. After quitting these sombre 
hamlets, we entered the still more 
sombre gorge of Yeselles, empaled 
by perpend cular rocks, from 
whose summits fall cascades suf¬ 
ficient to supply whole rivers; and 
echoing with the tremendous roar 
of the Diverio; whose waters 
rush furiously through enormous 
fragments of dissevered rocks, 
sometimes exhibiting all the co¬ 
lours of the rainbow, and at others 
boiling and foaming into gulfs, 
which can only be compared to 
the Chaos of Milton and the In¬ 
ferno of Dante. This narrow, 
awful, and appalling gorge ex¬ 
tends to Divedro ; a place said to 
stand at the height of one thou¬ 
sand seven hundred and eighty- 
two Paris feet above the level of 
the Mediterranean sea ; but situ¬ 
ated on a fertile, and indeed a 
pleasant spot, notwithstanding 

(k) Divedro contains a tolerable inn. 

( l) The Hotel de la Ville, and The Hotel 
d’Espagne. 

1 have passed the Simplon twice; name¬ 
ly, in May, 1817; and in June 1819: the 
first time travelling en voiturier, the se¬ 
cond time going post: and the number of 
hours employed in crossing this Alp, was 
both times precisely the same. From 
Brigg to the village of Simplon, (as I have 
already mentioned,) we were six hours and 
a half in ascending ; and thence to Domo- 
D’Ossolo five hours and a half in descend¬ 
ing : from Domo D’Ossola to the village 
of Simplon we were seven hours in as¬ 
cending; and thence to Brigg five hours in 


the gloomy aspect of the moun¬ 
tains by which it is encompassed k . 
From Divedro we descended into 
another equally wild and narrow 
glen, called Val-Divedro ; cross¬ 
ing two bridges, .and driving 
through the fifth and last Grotto, 
eighty paces in length. We then 
proceeded to Crevola, once more 
crossing the Diverio on a magni¬ 
ficent bridge, sixty paces in length, 
and deemed a master piece of ar¬ 
chitecture. Hence, as we ap¬ 
proached Domo D'Ossola, the 
rocks and mountains gradually 
receded ; till the base of the Sim¬ 
plon presented a landscape thickly 
studded with villages and vine¬ 
yards ; and the rich and extensive 
plains of Italy opened to our view; 
forming a delicious and most strik¬ 
ing contrast to the sublime and 
terrific solitude from which we 
had so recently emerged. 

The descent, from the village 
of Simplon to Domo-D’Ossola, is 
usually accomplished in five hours 
and a half; and the latter town 
contains two good inns 1 . 

Wishing to visit the Borromean 
Islands, on our way to Milan, we 
embarked at Baveno m , on the 
Lago Maggiore ; previously pur¬ 
suing the great military road, 
(which extends to Milan;) and 
passing two fine bridges; oppo¬ 
site to the latter of which is the 

descending. The most favourable season 
for passing the Simplon is between the 
middle of June and the end of October. 
During winter, carriages are usually dis¬ 
mounted, and put into Traiueaux, if the 
snow be deep. 

(m) It is possible to embark at Fariolo, 
the post previous to Baveno ; but the latter 
is the more convenient place; because 
boats are always in waiting there to convey 
Travellers to the Borromean Islands and 
the Lake of Como : the price of a boat, for 
the former expedition, being four livres 
per rower; and the time requisite for 
seeing the islands five or six hours. The 
inn at Baveno is tolerably good. 


LAGO MAG CIO RE. 


4.5 


Ch. II.] 

Valley of Mont-Rose, an Alp 
very little inferior in height to 
Mont-Blanc n . 

The Lago Maggiore, sometimes 
called Lago Locarno, and anciently 
V i erbanus , is reputed to be about 
fifty-six Italian miles in length, 
about six in breadth, and, toward 
the centre, about eighty fathoms 
deep. The picture, presented by 
this Lake, is enchanting; its banks 
being adorned by forest-trees, 
olives, and vineyards, interspersed 
with hamlets, white as snow, and 
enriched with villas and other edi¬ 
fices, remarkable for the variety 
and elegance of their construction ; 
while, on its bosom, rise three lit¬ 
tle Islands, two of which contain 
palaces and gardens belonging to 
the family of S. Carlo Borromeo. 
Isola Bella generally strikes Tra¬ 
vellers as the most beautiful of 
these islands 0 . Half a mile dis¬ 
tant from Isola Bella, toward the 
west, is Isola Pescatori; and about 
a mile distant, toward the north, 
Isola Madre. The passage from 
Isola Bella to Isola Madre seldom 
occupies more time than half an 
hour. The latter, at which we landed 
first, is about half a league from 
the shore, and consists* of four 
gardens, or rather terraces, one 
above the other, embellished with 
luxuriant flowers, shrubs, and fo¬ 
rest-trees ; and crowned by a Pa¬ 
lace, where the objects best worth 
notice are—a Madonna and Child, 
with other pictures, all painted on 
marble, and attributed to Peru- 
gino—S. Thomas Aquinas, as- 

(n) The valley of Mont-Rose possesses 
gold-mines; and the grapes here are trained 
round trees whose branches are so ma¬ 
naged as to resemble baskets. 

(o) This island contains an inn furnished 
with clean beds, and where good dinners 
may be procured at four francs a head. 

( p) This artist, after having murdered 
his wife, in order to espouse a prettier wo¬ 
man, took refuge here. 


cribed to Gucrcino—S. Geronimo, 
ascribed to Correggio—Erasmus, 
and Belisarius, ascribed to Schi- 
done—a painting on marble, sup¬ 
posed to have been done by Alba- 
no—the prodigal Son, ascribed to 
Guercino—a portrait, ascribed to 
Titian—a smith’s shop, by Bas- 
sano—the Madonna, our Saviour, 
$c., ascribed to Giordano—land¬ 
scapes, by TempestaP—four cattle 
pieces, together with some paint¬ 
ings attributed to Giovanni Be- 
lino, Andrea, del Sarto, and An¬ 
nibale Caracci. 

We proceeded next to Isola Bella, 
which consists of eight terraces, 
one above the other, carpeted with 
odoriferous flowers, enriched with 
exotics, refreshed by fountains, 
shaded with forest-trees, and 
crowned by a noble palace, which 
contains Paintings by Tempesta, 
a fine Bust of S. Carlo Borromeo, 
by Franchiq; and a large sub¬ 
terranean apartment, fitted up to 
imitate a series of grottoes, in a 
manner equally singular and taste- 
fid ; and which, during hot wea¬ 
ther, must be delicious. After 
viewing this abode of Calypso, 
we embarked for Sesto-Calende ; 
landing, however, by the way, at 
Arona ; and then walking about 
three-quarters of a mile, through 
a beautiful country, to see the ce¬ 
lebrated colossal Statue of S. Carlo 
Borromeo, which was executed, in 
bronze, by Zonelli, and measures 
an hundred and twelve feet in 
height, reckoning the pedestal. 
This statue is erected on a hill 

( q ) S. Carlo Borromeo is universally ac¬ 
knowledged to have been a peculiarly be¬ 
nevolent character; one of his family was 
as notoriously wicked; and the rest, though 
worthy, in the common acceptation of the 
word, were not in any respect distin¬ 
guished : a circumstance which occasioned 
the following remark,—“ That one Borro¬ 
meo belonged to Heaven, another to Hell, 
and the remainder to Earth.” 


4f> SESTO-CALENDE. [Ch. TI. 


that overlooks Arona, the birth¬ 
place of S. Carlo, who is repre¬ 
sented as giving- his benediction, 
with one hand, to the Mariners of 
the Lake, and holding- a book w r ith 
the other. This is one of the 
largest statues now existing in 
Italy; and so enormous are its di¬ 
mensions, that the head alone will 
contain four persons seated round 
a table, and one person may stand 
in the nose. 

At Sesto, we rejoined our car¬ 
riages ; which went by land to 
Belgirata r and Arona, and then 
crossed the Ticino, in a pont- 
volant, at the entrance of the 
first-named town. The road be¬ 
tween Baveno and Sesto exhibits 
another fine work of the Simplon, 
walls of an immense height, which 
prevent the waters of the Lake 
from overflowing the country.—■ 
Sesto-Calende is beautifully situ¬ 
ated on the Ticino, at the com¬ 
mencement of the plains of Lom¬ 
bardy ; and persons, who like 
water-carriage, may go from this 
town, or even from Baveno, or 
Fariolo, to Milan, in the boats of 
the Lago Maggiore s : we, how¬ 
ever, proceeded by land, through 
a delightful country, to Somma ; 
where, close to the great road, 
grows a cypress of extraordinary 
magnitude, and, according to tra¬ 
dition, planted previous to the 
birth of our Saviour. Scipio’s 
first battle with Hannibal took 
place near Somma. Hence, to 
Gallarate, we passed over heaths 
adorned by fine woods interspersed 
with beautiful broom ; and be¬ 
tween Gallarate and Castellanza, 
part of the country is of the same 

(r) A good inn here, L'Albergo Borro- 
nieo. 

(s) Public boats go from Sesto to Milan 
every morning, between the hours of five 
and seven, and take Passengers at one 


description, except that it exhibits 
pretty paths cut through under¬ 
wood of chesnut and oak. On 
approaching Ro, we drove between 
corn-fields, meadows, hamlets, and 
villas, to the Church of Nostra 
Signora de Miracoli; built af¬ 
ter the designs of Tibaldi, and 
adorned with good paintings, by 
Procaccino, tyc. The inside of 
this church does honour to its ar¬ 
chitect ; and the facade, erected 
by Pollach, is adorned with two 
bassi-rilievi; one of which repre ¬ 
sents the Salutation, and the other 
the Presentation in the Temple. 
The country between Ro and 
Milan is flat, well cultivated, and 
beautifully adorned by acacia and 
tulip-trees, which flourish here 
with peculiar luxuriance. But 
the greatest ornament of the ap¬ 
proach to Milan, the triumphal 
Arch, intended as a termination 
to the avenue of the Simplon, on 
one side, and as a decoration to 
the Forum, on the other, is, alas, 
unfinished! The commencement 
of this magnificent work, however, 
particularly merits attention. Four 
gigantic columns, each hewn out 
of a single block of marble, were 
designed to support its two fa- 
9 ades, the bases of which alone 
are completed; one side being- 
adorned with beautiful figures in 
/>a.wo-W//eyo,representingFrance, 
Clio, Calliope, and Italy ; and the 
other side embellished with bassi- 
rilievi, almost equally beautiful, 
and representing Hercules, Mars, 
Minerva, and Apollo: while, in 
surrounding out-houses, are de¬ 
posited still finer bassi-relievi, re¬ 
lative to the achievements of Na- 

panl a head. Private boats, large enough 
to contain a carriage, may be hired at Ba¬ 
veno for twenty-eight, or, at most, thirty 
francs to go down the Lago Maggiore to 
Sesto. 


MILAN. 


47 


Ch. IL] 

poleon ; together with capitals of 
pillars, and other architectural de¬ 
corations, highly creditable to the 
talents of Cagnola, under whose 
orders this work was begun. 

Milan, in Italian Milano, and 
anciently denominated Mediola¬ 
num, (supposed to have been 
founded by the Gauls 590 years 
before the Christian era,) is seated 
on a peculiarly fertile spot, be¬ 
tween the rivers Adda and Ticino, 
and intersected by three navigable 
canals, one of which extends to 
Pavia. Milan contains about 
130,000 inhabitants ; and may be 
called a handsome town, though 
its buildings, in point of archi¬ 
tecture, are, generally speaking, 
faulty: its climate, during winter, 
is very cold ; during summer, ex¬ 
tremely hot; and frequently damp 
and unwholesome during autumn 
and spring 1 . Its Duomo, or Ca¬ 
thedral, the largest church in 
Italy, S. Peter’s excepted, is a 
Gothic edifice of white marble, 
begun in the ) r car 13SG: but the 
exterior part was left * unfinish¬ 
ed till the reign of Napoleon, 
who ordered it to be completed, 
after the designs of Amati; and 
though much had been accom¬ 
plished, much still remained un¬ 
done, when the Emperor of Aus¬ 
tria resumed the government of 
the Milanese: it is said, however, 
that Napoleon’s plan will still 
be followed. This cathedral, in 
length 449 Paris feet, in breadth 
275, and in height 238, to the top 
of the cupola, is divided into five 
parts, by an hundred and sixty 
immense columns of marble, and 
paved with the same material. 
The interior ornament of the 
principal door is supported by two 

(t) The irrigation of the rice-fields, with 
which the Mifanese abounds, contributes to 
render the air, at times, insalubrious. 


columns of granite, called Mi- 
gliaruolo, and found in the beds of 
the neighbouring lakes and tor¬ 
rents. The interior and exterior 
distribution of the choir were exe¬ 
cuted under the orders of Pelle¬ 
grini ; the Sarcophagus of Gian- 
Giacomo de' Medici was designed 
by Buonaroti; and the bronze 
ornaments were made by Leoni. 
The Statue of S. Bartholomew is 
by Agrati; the Cupola, situated 
in the centre of the choir, is by 
Brunellesco; and, immediately un¬ 
derneath, in a subterranean Cha¬ 
pel, most sumptuously decorated, 
rest the mortal remains of S. Carlo 
Borromeo, enclosed by a crystal 
sarcophagus adorned with silver 
gilt: his countenance, part of the 
nose excepted, is well preserved ; 
his robes, crosier, and mitre, are 
superb; and silver bassi-rilievi, 
executed by Rubini, after the de¬ 
signs of Cerano, and representing 
the great features of the exem¬ 
plary life of S. Carlo Borromeo, 
embellish the walls of this chapel. 
A staircase, consisting of 4GS 
steps, leads to the top of the ca¬ 
thedral ; and it is impossible to 
form a just idea of the exterior 
decorations of this immense and 
venerable marble pile, without as¬ 
cending to its roofs; where alone 
the fret-work, carving, and sculp¬ 
ture, can be viewed to advantage- 
The three finished sides of the 
exterior walls .are covered with 
bassi-rilievi, statues, and groups 
of figures; several of them well 
executed: while every spire, or 
needle, is crowned with a statue, 
rather larger than life; and among 
these, there appears to be more 
than one likeness of Napoleon u . 

The Church of S. Alessandro 

(m) Cathedrals, in Italy, are always open 
from sun-rise till sun-set; other churches 
are usually opened at six or seven in the 


4S 


MILAN. 


possesses considerable merit with 
respect to architecture, together 
with good frescos in its cupola ; 
and its high altar and Ciborio v 
are remarkably handsome. 

The Church of S. Lorenzo , 
an octagon edifice, (adjoining to 
which is a building that resembles 
an ancient Bath,) is embellished 
by handsome columns, whose bases 
appear to have been originally the 
capitals of pillars, belonging, as 
tradition reports, to a Temple of 
Hercules, which once stood near 
this spot; and, before the church 
of S. Lorenzo, is the only speci¬ 
men of ancient Roman architec¬ 
ture now remaining at Milan; 
namely, a Portico, supported by 
sixteen beautiful fluted columns of 
the Corinthian order, with an en¬ 
tablature, which bears an inscrip¬ 
tion in honour of the Emperor 
Verus. 

Th e Refectory ofthe s uppress- 
ed Convent of S. Maria delle 
Grazie is embellished with Leo¬ 
nardo da Vinci's celebrated fresco 
of the last supper; and although 
this masterpiece has suffered cru¬ 
elly from time and ill treatment, it 
is still in sufficiently good preser¬ 
vation to be highly interesting w . 

The College of Brera, now the 
Gymnasium, or Palace of Arts and 
Sciences, contains a fine collection 
of pictures, among which are the 
following: First room. (Frescos) 
three boys playing on musical in¬ 
struments, by Gaudenzio Ferra- 
rio. Second room. The Magda¬ 
lene and our Saviour, by Lodovico 
Caracci—two pictures of Saints, 

morning, shut at twelve ; opened again at 
three in the afternoon, and shut at five or 
six. From the middle of Lent till Easter, 
the finest altar-pieces are covered. The 
common fee, to the Sacristan of a church, 
is from one to two pauls. Palaces are 
usually shown from nine or ten in the 
morning till twelve, and from three till 


[Ch. IL 

by Procaccino—our Saviour bear¬ 
ing his cross, by Daniello Crespi 
—S. Sebastiano, by M. A. Cara¬ 
vaggio—our Saviour and the Wo¬ 
man of Samaria, by A nnibale Ca¬ 
racci—Abraham dismissing Ha- 
gar, by Guercino!!!—The Ma¬ 
donna, our Saviour, God the Fa¬ 
ther, $c., by Albano—head of our 
Saviour, by Guercino !—The Ma¬ 
donna, our Saviour, S. John, and 
S. Petronio, (the Patron of Bo¬ 
logna,) by ditto—a dance of wing¬ 
ed Loves, by Albano !!—the last 
supper, by Rubens—the Woman 
detected in adultery, by Agostino 
Caracci—the ascension of the Ma¬ 
donna, by Paris Bordone—the as¬ 
cension of our Saviour, by Giulio 
Romano—the nativity, by ditto-— 
the baptism of our Saviour, by 
Paris Bordone—our Saviour dead, 
by Salmeggia—S. Peter and S. 
Paul, by Guido !—First division 
of the second room. Saints ador¬ 
ing the cross, by Tintoretto—the 
Madonna, our Saviour, and Saints, 
by Savoldi—the Woman detected 
in adultery, by Palma Vecchio— 
our Saviour supping with the 
Pharisee, by Paolo Veronese—S. 
Francesco, by Palma il Giovane— 
the marriage in Cana of Galilee, 
by Paolo Veronese—our Saviour 
dead, by Tintoretto—the Madon¬ 
na, our Saviour, and Saints, by 
Giulo Romano ! — our Saviour 
dead, by Benvenuto Garofalo!— 
Second division. Several curious 
old pictures.— Third division. 
Portrait of Solamon—ditto of 
Ann. Caracci—ditto of Procacci¬ 
no—the Madonna and Saints, by 

five in the afternoon. The common fee, 
at a palace, is from three to five pauls, ac¬ 
cording to the size of the party. 

(v) The tabernacle wherein the Host is 
kept. 

(w) The i a te Viceroy of Italy had a fine 
copy taken of this fresco, and did every 
thing in his power to preserve the original. 


MILAN. 


49 


Ch. II.] 

Pompeo Battoni—S. Girolamo, 
by Subleyras— Souls delivered 
from Purg atory, by Salvator Rosa! 
—a large landscape, by N. Pous¬ 
sin—ditto, by Salvator Rosa—the 
Madonna, our Saviour, and Saints, 
by Luca Giordano.— Third room. 
The Madonna, our Saviour, and 
S. Francesco, by Vandyck—the 
head of a Monk, by Velasquez! 
Fourth room. The Madonna, our 
Saviour, fyc., in the first manner 
of Correggio—the marriage of the 
Madonna, in the first manner of 
Raphael—our Saviour dead, by 
Giovanni Bellino; and a sketch, 
by Andrea del Sarto. 

The Gymnasium contains casts 
of all the finest statues of anti¬ 
quity, a particularly well furnished 
Observatory, a good Library, and 
a Botanic Garden. 

Th eAmbrosianLibrary, found¬ 
ed by Cardinal Federigo Borro- 
meo, contains above thirty-five 
thousand printed volumes, toge¬ 
ther with between fourteen and 
fifteen thousand precious manu¬ 
scripts, among which are those of 
Leonardo da Vinci, accompanied 
by his drawings—a Virgil, with 
annotations by Petrarca, in his 
own hand-writing —a Pliny—a 
Plato and a Cicero of the second 
century—and a Josephus written 
on papyrus, and written on both 
sides of each leaf. This library 
likewise contains the following 
paintings : A Holy Family, by 
Titian—sketches, by Pietro da 
Cortona—the original sketch of 
the School of Athens, by Raphael, 
well preserved, and most valu¬ 
able !!—a fine copy of Leonardo 
da Vinci’s painting of the last 
supper—a sketch, by Raphael, of 
part of the battle of Constantine ! 
—a Holy Family, by Bernardino 
Luino, the contemporary and rival 


of Leonardo da Vinci!—the head of 
our Saviour, by Luino—our Sa¬ 
viour dead, by Titian—sketches 
of the last judgment, by Buona- 
roti—sketches, by Polidoro da 
Caravaggio, and other great mas¬ 
ters—a miniature of the celestial 
regions, by Albano !! and a fresco, 
by Luino, representing our Sa¬ 
viour crowned with thorns. 

The Great Hospital and the 
Lazzaretto merit notice ; the lat¬ 
ter is just beyond the eastern gate 
of the city. 

The Marengo-Gate, a simple 
and elegant specimen of Ionic ar¬ 
chitecture, bears the following 
inscription: “ Pad Populorum 
Sospitce." 

The Amphitheatre, situated near 
the Forum, is a magnificent build¬ 
ing, erected after the designs of 
Canonica, and large enough to 
contain 36,000 spectators. The 
pulvinare, and the principal en¬ 
trance of this edifice, especially 
deserve attention. 

The Theatre of La Scala, built 
after the designs of Piermarini, 
is deemed, with respect to archi¬ 
tecture, the most beautiful opera- 
house in Europe ; and, except the 
great theatre at Parma, and that 
of S. Carlo at Naples, it is the 
most spacious. The stage deco¬ 
rations also are particularly splen¬ 
did and classical, and the orches¬ 
tra is, generally speaking, the best 
in Italy : but the circumstance 
most creditable to this, and indeed 
to every other theatre on the Con¬ 
tinent, is that perfect decorum 
which enables ladies (though un¬ 
attended), to go, return, and even 
walk, from box to box, without the 
slightest chance of receiving an 
insult. 

Milan contains other theatres ; 
namely, the Canobiana, shaped 


50 


MILAN, [Ch. II. 


like La Scala, but not so large ; 
the Teatro Re ; and the Carcano, 
built by Canonica. 

The principal promenades are, 
the Ramparts, the Corso, and the 
Esplanade, between the town and 
the Forum x . 

The environs of Milan boast a 
considerable number of handsome 
villas, among which is that which 
was presented by the citizens to 
Napoleon. 

Monza , about three leagues 
north of Milan, likewise contains 
a superb royal residence, built af¬ 
ter the designs of Piermarini; and 
another, called Pelacca, celebrat¬ 
ed for its stud of horses. At Mon¬ 
za Charlemagne was crowned king 
of Lombardy ; and in the Cathe¬ 
dral there is the ancient crown of 
the Lombard kings, commonly 
called “ The iron crown,” because 
its inside is lined with some of that 
metal, said to be composed of the 
nails with which our Saviour was 
fastened to the cross. The out¬ 
side of this diadem is gold, studded 
with precious stones y. 

On quitting Milan we took the 
Bologna road, traversing* a luxu¬ 
riant country, which abounds with 
fields of rice, and every other kind 
of grain, vineyards, and streamlets, 
for the purposes of irrigation, 
and exhibits not a single inch 
of fallow land ; this last, however, 
is a thing rarely seen in Italy, 
where the husbandman no sooner 
reaps one crop than another suc¬ 
ceeds, to the number of four or 
five in a twelvemonth. The road 
is, generally speaking, flat, and 
bordered with towns and villages, 
so far as Lodi, which stands on an 

(x) Among the principal hotels are, The 
ALbergo Reale, The Albergo della Gran - 
Bretagna , The Croce di Malta, 1 tre Re, 
and II Pozzo. 

(y) From Milan it is easy to make an ex¬ 
cursion to Pavia, either by land or water ; 


eminence, near the Adda, is well 
built, and contains about 12,000 
inhabitants. The most remark¬ 
able of its churches, L'Incoronata , 
w*as erected according to the de¬ 
sign of Bramante, and adorned 
with frescos and paintings in oil 
by Callisto, the pupil of Titian : 
but what chiefly renders this town 
interesting is that, at the bridge 
of Lodi, Napoleon gained one of 
his most memorable victories z . 
The little province, of which Lodi 
is the capital, usually gives food to 
thirty thousand cows ; and its 
cheese, improperly called Parme¬ 
san, is most excellent. Hence w r e 
proceeded to a troublesome Aus¬ 
trian custom-house, near the Po ; 
and then crossed that fine river, 
on a pont-volant , to Piacenza. 
This town, seated in a rich and 
pleasant country, contains several 
objects of interest ; namely, the 
Cathedral and the Church o f La 
Madonna della Campagna, both 
adorned with good paintings, the 
cupola of the former being by 
Guercino, the angles by Franc.es- 
coni, and the ceiling above the 
great altar, and frescos behind it, 
by Lodovico Caracci and Procac- 
cino. This church is likewise 
adorned with a picture of S. Cor- 
rado, by Lanfranco, and another 
of S. Francis Xavier, by Fiamin- 
go ; the Angels, in fresco, which 
surround the latter, being likewise 
by Fiamingo ; and the ascension, 
on the ceiling of one of the cha¬ 
pels, by the same master. The 
Church of the Canonici regolari 
di S. Agostino , designed by Vig¬ 
nola ; the Toum-hall, by the same 
architect ; and two equestrian 

the latter town being only seven leagues 
distant from the former. 

’ ( z ) From Lodi there is a road, by Cre¬ 
mona and Mantua, to Bologna; aud to 
the east of Lodi is the road through Brescia 
and Verona to Venice. 


Ch - n l BORGO>—S. DONINO—PARMA. 


Statues, the one representing- Ra¬ 
il ucolo, and the other Alessandro 
Farnese, by Francesco Moca, also 
merit notice. Piacenza, though 
large, is built entirely of brick, 
not even its palaces excepted ; it 
contains a pretty theatre and good 
hotels a . Here commences the 
ancient Via-Flaminia, construct¬ 
ed during the consulate of Lepidus 
and Flaminius, and leading to the 
Vla-Emilia in Romagna ; and 
not tar hence flows that memorable 
torrent, the Trebia, whose im¬ 
mense bed travellers drive through 
on their way to S. Giovanni, in 
the road to Tortona. 

At the distance of half a mile 
from Piacenza, we crossed a bridge 
thrown over the Po, having, to our 
right, the lofty mountains of the 
Apennine, with villages and farms 
at their base ; and to our left a 
plain, watered by the above-named 
river. Midway to Fiorenzuola w r e 
traversed, on a stone-bridge, a 
torrent called the Nura, and thence 
drove through the bed of the Larda, 
always dry in summer, and pro¬ 
vided with a narrow bridge, over 
which carriages pass when the 
stream is swoln by winter rain. 
We then proceeded through Fio¬ 
renzuola, a small town where, how¬ 
ever, there are good inns, to Bor- 
go-San-Donino, seated on the 
Stirone, and not far distant from 
what are supposed to be the ruins 
of the ancient Julia Chrisopolis. 
The cathedral at S. Donino merits 
notice, as does the edifice convert¬ 
ed, by order of Napoleon, into an 
Asylum for the Poor b . A few miles 
from this town stands Castel- 
Guelfo, celebrated for having given 
its name to the Guelfs, w r hose 
strife with the Ghibellines bathed 
Italy in blood. Beyond Castel- 

( a ) The Albergo delletre Ganasce, and 
S. Marco. 


Guelfo w r e passed, on a pont-vo- 
lant, the Taro, after heavy rains 
a dangerous torrent, but over 
which a magnificent Bridge, begun 
by Napoleon, is now on the point 
of being finished by Maria-Louisa. 

After traversing a rich and 
beautiful valley, adorned with vil¬ 
lages and vineyards, we arrived at 
Parma, a handsome town, which 
derives its appellation from the 
river that runs through it. The 
walls of Parma are between three 
and four miles round, and the in¬ 
habitants are said to amount to 
35,000; but, nevertheless, this 
city looks deserted and melan¬ 
choly. 

The Cathedral, built, like all 
the other public edifices, of brick, 
is a spacious Gothic structure, 
containing a high altar, richly de¬ 
corated with precious marbles, and 
a cupola finely painted by Cor¬ 
reggio, but cruelly injured. Over 
the organ are the families of Cor¬ 
reggio and Parmigianino, painted 
by themselves, and tolerably well 
preserved ; and on the sides of the 
principal door, are portraits of 
those great artists, likewise paint¬ 
ed by themselves. This church 
also contains a monument to the 
memory of Petrarca. 

The Church of S. Giovanni 
Evangelista, built with majestic 
simplicity, is embellished with fres¬ 
cos by Correggio and Parmigia¬ 
nino ; the former of whom has re¬ 
presented, in the cupola, our Sa¬ 
viour ascending to Heaven, and 
the Apostles witnessing his ascen¬ 
sion ! 

The Stoccata, built after the 
design of Bramante, does honour 
to the taste of that distinguished 
architect, and is adorned with fine 
paintings, namely, Moses break- 

(6) S. Donino contains two inns, La 
Croce bianca, and The Albergo del A ngelo. 

E 2 


PARMA—REGGIO. 


ing the tables of the law, by Par¬ 
migianino ; three Sibyls, by ditto ; 
another Sibyl, by Mazzuolo, and 
frescos in the cupola by Correg¬ 
gio. 

The Convento delle Monache 
di S. Paolo contains a room adorn¬ 
ed with frescos by Correggio, and 
deemed the most beautiful work 
of its kind he ever executed: the 
subject seems to be Diana tri¬ 
umphant, accompanied by Genii. 

The royal Academy contains a 
fine collection of pictures, among 
which are the adoration of the 
Magi, by Agostino Caracci—the 
Ascension, by Raphael—the mar¬ 
riage of the Madonna, by Pro- 
caccino—the deposition from the 
cross, by Schidone—the martyr¬ 
dom of two Saints, by Correggio 
—the repose in Egypt, by ditto— 
the descent from the cross, by Cor¬ 
reggio—the Holy Family, by Par¬ 
migianino—a fresco, representing 
the Madonna and our Saviour, by 
Correggio!!!—a fresco, repre¬ 
senting the Madonna crowned, by 
Annibale Caracci!!—and S. Gi¬ 
rolamo, by Correggio. 

The Library belonging to the 
academy is adorned with a fresco 
by Correggio, representing the 
Madonna crowned; and another 
room contains the death of the 
Madonna, by Lodovico Caracci. 

The great Theatre , designed 
by Vignola, and built of wood, is 
the most spacious, and, in point of 
architecture, the most perfect edi¬ 
fice of its kind in Italy : it con¬ 
tains, with ease, five thousand spec¬ 
tators, (some authors say, nine 
thousand,) all of whom can see 
every thing which passes on the 
stage, and hear every syllable 
spoken by the actors, even though 
uttered in a whisper. This fine 

(e) La Posta is the best. 


[Ch. If. 

specimen of architecture, however, 
is now so entirely out of repair, 
that a few years may probably re¬ 
duce it to a heap of ruins. 

Adjoining to the great Theatre 
is another, built after the design 
of Bernini, and, comparatively 
speaking, small; as it does not 
hold more than two thousand 
spectators. 

Parma contains good Hotels 0 . 

Just beyond one of the city 
gates is the Palazzo-Giardino , 
embellished with fine frescos by 
Agostino Caracci: nine miles dis¬ 
tant, on the way to Casal-Mag- 
giore, is Colorno, a large palace, 
adorned with two statues • one 
representing Hercules, the other 
Bacchus; and both found in the 
Orto Farnese, at Rome: and 
thirteen leagues distant, at the 
base of the Apennine, are the 
ruins of Telleia, a Roman muni¬ 
cipal city, which was buried by 
the sudden fall of a mountain 
supposed to have been under¬ 
mined by a subterraneous water¬ 
course. This melancholy event 
took place in the fourth century ; 
and from the number of human 
bones found at Velleia, when it 
was excavated in 1760, there 
seems reason to fear the inha¬ 
bitants had no time to escape d . 

From Parma we traversed a 
rich and beautiful country to S. 
Hario; passing, on quitting the 
Duchy of Parma, the Lenza on 
a magnificent bridge ; and then 
crossing the Crostolo, on another 
bridge, previous to our arrival at 
Reggio. This town, anciently 
Regium Lepidi , and seated on 
the Crostolo, is said to contain 
nearly 16,000 inhabitants. The 
Cathedral here merits notice ; as 
one of its chapels contains good 

(d) Velleia is much nearer to Fioren- 
zuola than to Parma. 


MODENA. 


53 


Ch. IL] 

pictures: but what particularly 
renders this spot interesting - , is 
its having 1 given birth to that 
greatest of Italian poets, Ariosto: 
indeed, the soil seems to have 
been prolific of genius, for be¬ 
tween Reggio and Modena we 
passed within a league of Cor¬ 
reggio, the birth-place of the 
great painter who bears its name. 
Reggio contains three Hotels e . 

Driving through Rubiera f , 
where Travellers who arrive after 
dark find the gates shut, and are 
compelled to wait till permission 
be obtained to have them opened, 
we traversed a fine bridge thrown 
over the Secchia, and then pass¬ 
ing near a splendid column erect¬ 
ed (as we were told) in honour of 
Napoleon, found ourselves at Mo¬ 
dena, anciently Mutina ; a small 
but handsome city, situated amidst 
luxuriant pasturages ; and, of late 
years, much improved. The Gates 
are handsome ; the Ramparts form 
a beautiful promenade round the 
town ; the streets, in general, are 
straight, wide, and clean ; and 
the Strada-maestra (part of the 
ancient Via-Emilia ) is magnifi¬ 
cent. The Cathedral contains a 
picture of the presentation, by 
Guido ; and the Campanile , built 
of marble, is one of the loftiest 
towers in Italy. The Churches 
of S. Vincenzo and S. Agostino 
merit notice ; as does the public 
Library , which is well stored with 
valuable manuscripts and rare 
editions of printed works. The 
university has long been cele¬ 
brated ; and the Falazzo Ducale 
contains a sumptuous hall, painted 
by Francesconi ; together with a 
small but choice collection of pic- 

(e ) La Posta—Il Giglio— and VAl- 
bcrgo di San Giovanni. 

(f) Rubiera, or Marsalla, for it 9eems to 
have both names, boasts but one tolerable 


tures ; among which are, the 
adoration of the Magi, by Procae- 
cino—the crucifixion, by Andrea 
Mantegna—the Madonna, the Sa¬ 
viour, and several other figures, 
by Garofalo—the Holy Family, 
by Andrea del Sarto—four land¬ 
scapes, by Salvator Rosa — five 
paintings, by Annibale Caracci— 
the Saviour on the cross, by 
Guido—the martyrdom of S. Pe¬ 
ter, by Guereino—S. Rocco, by 
Guido—Roman charity, by Sac- 
chi—a small painting of the Sa¬ 
viour on the cross, and the Ma¬ 
donna standing near, by Guido— 
and the head of the Madonna, by 
Carlo Dolci. Modena contains 
public Baths, a Theatre, a public 
Walk, and several private Collec¬ 
tions of pictures, most of which 
are said to be upon sale. It like¬ 
wise still contains the Secchia, or 
Bucket, immortalized by Tassoni; 
but this object, so interesting to 
lovers of poetry, is now removed 
from the cathedral, where it used 
to be exhibited, and withheld from 
public view, because placed under 
the care of the Municipality. 

Modena afforded an asylum to 
Brutus after the assassination of 
Caesar; and is also famous for 
having given birth to Muratori, 
Vignola, and Tassoni, the Author 
of the Secchia Rapitaz. 

After bidding adieu to this city, 
we crossed the Panora, on a fine 
bridge newly constructed, which 
marks the limits of the Duchy; 
thence proceeding to Castel-Fran- 
co; where we observed the lotus 
growing luxuriantly in the ditch 
that encompasses the Fort: and 
this being the first town of the 
Papal dominions, we were obliged 

inn ; and that stands beyond the bridge, on 
the road to Modena. 

(g) The grande Albergo Reale, at Mo¬ 
dena, is an excellent hotel. 


BOLOGNA. 


51 


[Ch. II. 


to fee the Custom-house Officers, 
that our baggage might escape 
examination. We then crossed 
the Reno, on another fine bridge, 
and entered Bologna, by the an¬ 
cient Roman road, through a rich 
and beautiful Alpine country. 

Bologna, seated on the Reno, 
at the base of the Apennine, is 
supposed to have derived its name 
from the Galli-Boionienses, who 
called it Boiona, which time 
changed first into Bononia-Fel - 
sinia, and at length into Bologna: 
but, be this as it may, the city is 
of high antiquity, well-peopled, 
commercial, wealthy, and situated 
in a salubrious, though not a 
warm climate: its walls are from 
five to six miles round; and its 
population is supposed to amount 
to 60,000 inhabitants; indeed, 
some authors rate it much higher. 
Bologna has twelve gates; the 
handsomest of which are those of 
Modena, Ferrara, and Bonaparte. 

The Cathedral, erected in 1600, 
contains the last work of Lodo- 
vico Caracci, namely, a fresco re¬ 
presenting the Annunciation! it 
adorns the sanctuary. In the 
Chapter-room is a picture of S. 
Peter and the Madonna bewailing 
the death of our Saviour, by the 
same master; who has likewise 
adorned the bottom of the choir 
with a fresco of our Saviour giv¬ 
ing the keys of Paradise to S. 
Peter. Below the choir is a cu¬ 
rious Crypt. 

The Church of S. Petronio, 
built in 432, and repaired in 
1390, is large ; and, on account 
of its antiquity, curious. Charles v., 
was crowned here, by Clement 
vii. ; and this edifice contains 
the celebrated meridian of Cas¬ 
sini, the gnomon of which is 
eighty-three feet in height. 

The Domenican Church con¬ 


tains good paintings ; among 
which is the Paradise of Guido, 
one of his finest compositions in 
fresco! 

Lo Studio, the Palace of the 
University, was designed by Vi¬ 
gnola, and contains a Statue of 
Hercules in bronze ; a Museum of 
Natural History; an anatomical 
Theatre; a Cabinet of Antiqui¬ 
ties ; and a Library rich in ma¬ 
nuscripts and books of Science. 
This celebrated University, sup¬ 
posed to have been founded by 
the Countess Matilda, once con¬ 
tained six thousand Students, and 
seventy-two Professors. 

The Accademia delle belle Arti 
is adorned with a fine, though not 
a numerous, collection of pictures; 
among which are the conversion 
of S. Paul, by Lodovico Caracci— 
S. Girolamo, by Agostino Caracci 
—S. Bruno, by Guercino—the 
Madonna della Pieta, by Guido— 
S. Cecilia, by Raphael—the mas¬ 
sacre of the Innocents, by Guido— 
a fine picture, by Parmigianino— 
the head of Guido, by Simone da 
Pesaro—the portrait of S. Andrea 
Corsini, by Guido; and two large 
pictures, by Domenichino. 

The Palazzo-Marescalchi, and 
the Palazzo-Ercolano, likewise 
contain good pictures. 

The Tower of Asinelli, built in 
1119, is three hundred and twenty 
seven feet high, and said to be the 
loftiest edifice of its kind in Italy. 
The neighbouring • Tower, built 
in 1110, is an hundred and forty 
feet in height, and from eight to 
nine feet out of the perpendicular. 

A handsome Fountain, adorned 
by a colossal statue of Neptune, 
called the chef-d'oeuvre of Gio¬ 
vanni di Bologna, embellishes the 
Piazza del Gigante ; and through 
this city runs a Canal, by the aid 
of which Travellers may go by 


Ch. II.] 

water to Ferrara, and thence em¬ 
bark on the Po for Venice. 

The Iffieatre here is one of the 
largest in Italy; and the fa£ades 
of the palaces, and other build¬ 
ings, are magnificent; but the 
streets appear narrow, from being 
lined almost universally with por¬ 
ticos ; and this circumstance, com¬ 
bining with the want of spacious 
squares, diminishes the beauty of 
the town, by giving it a sombre 
appearance h . Travellers, on ar¬ 
riving here, are greeted by an ex¬ 
cellent band of musicians ; who, 
after having played a few tunes, 
are well satisfied with a fee of two 
or three pauls. 

Bologna gave birth to Guido, 
Domenichino, Albano, Annibale, 
Lodovico, and Agostino Caracci *, 
and Benedict xiv.: and among 
its natural curiosities is the phos¬ 
phorescent stone, found near the 
city, on Monte-Paderno. 

About one mile distant from 
the walls is the Campo-Santo, 
once the Certosa-Convent: and 
here lies the celebrated Singer, 
Banti, whose vocal powers not 
long since captivated Europe. This 
repository of the dead is well 
worth notice; and its Church con¬ 
tains paintings by Cesi, Guercino, 
Guido, £)-c. 

The Church of the Madonna 
della Guardia also merits notice ; 
as it is approached by a Portico, 
consisting of six hundred and forty 
arches, built at the expense of 
various individuals, corporations, 
and ecclesiastical establishments ; 
the whole being three miles in 
length, and extending from the 
city to the church, which is inag- 

( h) The best Hotels here are, the Grancle 
Albergo Imperials, and S. Marco. 

( i ) Annibale Caracci was designed for a 
goldsmith ; bnt his uncle, Lodovico, ob¬ 
serving that both Annibale and his brother, 
Agostino, were blessed with great abilities, 


55 

nificently placed, and somewhat 
resembles the Superga near Turin. 

Persons who enjoy fine scenery 
and good paintings should like¬ 
wise visit S. Michele in Bosco, 
once a Convent belonging to the 
Olivetans. The Portico of the 
Church is adorned by the pencil 
of Cignani; and one of the cha¬ 
pels contains a picture, by Guer¬ 
cino, representing Bernardo To- 
lomei, the Founder of the Order, 
receiving his statutes from the 
hands of the Madonna. In the 
Convent are several fine works by 
Lodovico Caracci; and one pic¬ 
ture by Spada. The situation of 
this building is delicious. 

I will now close my account of 
Bologna, by observing, that per¬ 
sons who visit Italy for the pur¬ 
pose of educating their children, 
would do well to reside in this 
last-named city, where masters of 
every description may be obtained 
on moderate terms. 

Between Milan and Bologna 
the road is excellent, and does not 
pass over one high hill: and from 
Bologna we crossed the Apennine 
to Florence by a road which, though 
hilly, is excellent, and in great 
measure newly constructed under 
the direction of the Cav. Fabbroni. 

The time usually employed in 
accomplishing this journey, either 
with post-horses, or cn voiturier , 
is from fourteen to fifteen hours. 
The ascents and descents are 
more rapid than those of the Sim¬ 
plon ; though not sufficiently so to 
render a drag-chain often requi¬ 
site, even for heavy carriages ; 
and the paved gutters, intersected 
by small wells, made to receive 

took upon himself the office of instructing 
them in painting; and so much did they 
profit by his lessons, that their memory 
must be for ever honoured by true lovers 
of the arts. 


BOLOGNA. 


PASSAGE OF THE APPENINE. 


5G 

the streams which descend from 
the heights above the road, keep 
the latter dry, and in good repair. 

From Bologna to Pianoro, the 
first post, we found the country 
rich and flat; but at Pianoro oxen 
were added to our horses, and we 
began to ascend the Apennine, 
whose summits presented us with 
a magnificent view of the plains we 
had recently traversed, the Alps, 
and the Mediterranean and Adri¬ 
atic sea. The wind on this spot 
is, generally speaking, strong, 
and particularly cold. Hence we 
proceeded to the next post, Lojano, 
where Travellers should not sleep; 
as the inn affords no comfortable 
accommodation. From Lojano 
to Pietramala, the Frontier Cus¬ 
tom-house of Tuscany, the ascent 
continues; and the road winds 
amidst bold scenery, less sublime 
than the Alps, but more beautiful. 
The inn at Pietramala, (about 
midway between Bologna and 
Florence,) is provided with seve¬ 
ral clean beds ; and persons wish¬ 
ing to visit the little Volcano, in 
this neighbourhood, would do well 
to sleep here. The Volcano is 
situated on a hill, called Monte di 
Fo, covered with rocks, and about 
one mile distant from the inn ; but 
there being neither a carriage nor 
a mule road to the spot, it is ne¬ 
cessary to walk ; and less than an 
hour and a half cannot be allowed 


[Cli. IL 

for going and returning. The 
mouth of this little Volcano dis¬ 
gorges, unceasingly, clear flames, 
sometimes spreading fifteen feet 
in circumference, and always burn¬ 
ing brightest in wet and stormy 
weather. 

From Pietramala we descended 
the Apennine to Le Maschere, 
another Inn, provided with good 
beds ; thence proceeding through 
a country gradually increasing in 
richness, till, at length, Val-d'Arno 
opened to our view, and exhibited, 
in its centre, the beautiful City of 
Florence, seated amidst fields 
teeming with almost every pro¬ 
duction of the vegetable world, 
and surrounded by hills clothed 
with olives and vineyards, and 
studded with an innumerable host 
of splendid villas. 

Ariosto says of Florence, that, 
on seeing the hills so full of pa¬ 
laces, it appears as if the soil pro¬ 
duced them. “And if thy palaces, 
(continues he) which are thus dis¬ 
persed, were concentrated within 
one wall, two Romes could not vie 
with thee.” 

The approach to Florence for 
several miles displays a richness 
of cultivation unrivalled, perhaps, 
in any country, (the environs of 
Lucca excepted:) and the entrance 
to the city, this way, through 
the Porta-San-Gallo, is strikingly 
magnificent k . 


(k) All (he Gates of Florence are shut when it becomes dark, except the Porta-San-Gallo. 



57 


CHAPTER III. 

FLORENCE. 


Origin and present appearance of Florence—Palazzo-Vecchio— Loggia—Piazza del 
Granduca—Fabbrica degli Ufi/.i—Magliabechiana Library—Royal Gallery—Palazzo* 
Pitti—Giardino di Boboli—Museo d’IstoriaNaturale—Duorno—Campanile—Baptistery 
—Chiesadi San Marco—S. S. Annunziata—S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi—Santa Croce 
—S. Lorenzo—New Sacristy—Old Sacristy—Capella de’ Medici—Mediceo-Lauren- 
ziana Library—Chiesa di Santa Maria Novella—D’Or-San-Michele—Di San-Spirito— 
Del Carmine—Di S. Trinita—Di S. Ambrogio—Di S. Gaetano ; 4c.—Reale Accade- 
mia delle belle Arti—Oratorio dello Sealzo—Palazzi Gerini—Riccardi—Corsini— 
Mozzi—Buonaroti—Strozzzi—Uguccioni—Casa dei Poveri—Spedale di Bonifazio— 
Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova—Spedale degl’ Innocenti—Column in ViaRomana— 
Column near the Ponte S. Trinita—Column in the Piazza del Duomo—Bronze Wild 
Boar in the Mercato nnovo—Pedestal near the Church of S. Lorenzo—Group of Her¬ 
cules and Nessus—Statue of Ferdinando I.—Porta S. Gallo—Triumphal Arch—Fresco 
by Giovanni di San Giovanni—Ponte S. Trinitd—Theatres—Florentine Mosaic Work, 
and Sculpture in Alabaster—Accademia della Crusca—Hotels—Provisions—Water— 


Climate—List of objects best worth notice, 

Florence7 in Italian, Firenze, 
which signifies, in the Etruscan 
language, a red lily, (actually the 
arms of the city,) has deservedly 
acquired the appellation of La 
Bella: it stands (as I have al¬ 
ready mentioned) in a luxuriant, 
beautiful, and extensive plain, en¬ 
circled by the Apennine ; and is 
said, by some authors, to have 
been an ancient town of Etruria, 
afterward inhabited by the Plite- 
nicians ; while others suppose it 
to have been founded either by 
Sylla’s soldiers, or the people of 
Fiesole: and one thing seems 
certain, namely, that the choicest 
part of Caesar’s army was sent to 
colonize at Florence, (then called 
Florentia,) about sixty years be¬ 
fore the birth of our Saviour; and 
under the dominion of the Roman 
Emperors it became one ot the 
most considerable cities of Etru¬ 
ria, and was embellished with a 
Hippodrome, a Campus Martins, 
a Capitol, and a road, called Via- 


as they lie near each other. 

Cassia. Its walls are six miles in 
circumference ; and contain above 
70,000 persons; and the river Ar¬ 
no, (anciently Arnus ,) which runs 
through it, is adorned with four 
handsome bridges : its squares are 
spacious and numerous ; its streets, 
like those of every large Tuscan 
city, clean, and excellently paved 
with flat stones; and, were the 
fa£ades of all its churches finished, 
nothing could exceed the elegance 
of this Athens of Italy. 

So many changes have lately 
taken place at Florence, relative 
to works of art, S,-c. ; that I trust 
it will not appear like arrogance 
in me to give a minute detail of 
the objects best worth a Travel¬ 
ler’s attention ; especially as there 
exists, at this moment, no accu¬ 
rate Flore nce-Guide. 

The Palazzo-Vecchio, adorn¬ 
ed with a Tower so lofty that it 
is deemed a chef-d' ccuvre of archi¬ 
tecture, was built by Arnolfo, the 
Disciple of Cimabue: and, before 


58 


FLORENCE. 


the entrance to this palace, is a 
Statue, in marble, of David, sup¬ 
posed to be in the act of slaying’ 
Goliath, by Buonaroti 1 ; and a 
group, likewise, in marble, of 
Hercules slaying Cacus, by Ban- 
dinelli. On the ceiling and walls 
of the great hall are frescos of 
the most celebrated actions of the 
Florentine Republic and the 
House of Medicis, all by Vasari; 
except four pictures in oil, one 
representing the coronation of 
Cosimo i., by Ligozzi ; another 
the twelve Florentines, at the 
same time Ambassadors from dif¬ 
ferent States to Boniface vm., 
by Ligozzi; a third, the election 
of Cosimo i., by Cigoli; and, a 
fourth, the institution of the or¬ 
der of S. Stefano, by Passignano. 
In this hall, likewise, is a group 
of Victory with a prisoner at her 
feet, by Buonaroti! and another 
group of Virtue triumphing over 
Vice, by Giovanni di Bologna! 
The exploits of Furius Camillus 
are painted in tempera, by Sal- 
viati, in the Sala dell’ Udienza 
Vecchia. 

The Loggia of the Palazzo- 
Vecchio was built after the de¬ 
sign of Andrea Arcagna ; and is 
adorned with a group, in bronze, 
called Judith and Holofernes, by 
Donatello—Perseus with Medu¬ 
sa s head, in bronze, by Cellini! 
(the basso-rilievo on the pedestal 
which supports this group is much 
admired,) a group in marble, of 
a young Roman warrior carrying 
off a Sabine Virgin, and her fa¬ 
ther prostrate at his feet, with 
the rape of the Sabines in basso- 
rilievo on the pedestal, by Gio¬ 
vanni di Bologna!!—two lions, 
in marble, brought from the Villa- 
Medici, at Rome—and six antique 
statues of Sabine priestesses. 

(1) Michelangelo Buonaroti was not only 
the most eminent Sculptor of modern days, 


[Ch. III. 

The Piazza del Granduca 
contains a noble fountain, erect¬ 
ed by Cosimo i., after the design 
of Ammannati—and an eques¬ 
trian statue of Cosimo i., in 
bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna! 
to whom the sea-nymphs and tri¬ 
tons, which surround the foun¬ 
tain, are likewise attributed. 

The Fabbrica degli Ufizi, 
which comprehends the Royal 
Gallery, was built by Vasari: the 
exterior part of the edifice is or¬ 
namented with Doric columns, 
forming two magnificent porticos, 
united at one end by an arch, 
which supports the apartments 
occupied by courts of justice; 
and, over this arch, is a statue of 
Cosimo i., by Giovanni di Bolog¬ 
na ; together with recumbent 
figures of Equity and Rigour, by 
Vincenzo Danti. 

The Magli abechiana-Library, 
rich in manuscripts and printed 
books of the fifteenth century, 
(andwhere theFlorentine academy 
meet,) is under the same roof 
with the Royal Gallery; the latter 
is usually open to the public from 
nine in the morning till three in 
the afternoon, festivals excepted. 

Staircase leading to the Royal 
Gallery. Between the windows 
is the statue of Bacchus, in mar¬ 
ble ; and, opposite to it, the statue 
of a Child. 

First Vestibule. A statue of 
Mars, and another of Silenus, 
with an infant Bacchus, both in 
bronze—ten busts of the Princes 
of the House of Medicis, among 
which is that of the great Lorenzo 
—lour bassi-rilievi. 

Second Vestibule. A horse 
in marble ; supposed to have ori¬ 
ginally belonged to the group of 
Niobe and her Children! Two 
quadrangular Columns, which 

but likewise the Founder of Ike French 
School of Painting. 


FLORENCE. 


59 


Ch. til.] 


appear to represent the victories 
by land and sea of the person to 
whom they were dedicated: on 
one of these columns rests a head 
of Cybele ; and, on the other, a 
fine bust of Jupiter—a Wild 
Boar!! said to be Grecian sculp¬ 
ture—colossal statues of Trajan, 
Augustus, and a Barbarian-King 
—two Wolf-dogs—a bust of Leo- 
poldo. 

First Corridor. The ceiling 
of this immense Gallery is adorned 
with arabesques: round the walls, 
near the ceiling, are portraits of 
the most renowned characters of 
antiquity; comprehending gene¬ 
rals, statesmen, princes, and lite¬ 
rati ; and, on the wall to the left, 
below the portraits, are paintings 
of the Florentine school. Here, 
likewise, is a most valuable col¬ 
lection of busts of the Roman 
emperors, .and many of their re¬ 
latives, which go round the three 
corridors. The first corridor 
contains several curious sarco¬ 
phagi ; one of which, in the centre 
of this apartment, near the en¬ 
trance-door, is particularly ad¬ 
mired. On the left side are sta¬ 
tues of a Wrestler, Mercury, and 
Apollo, all especially worth notice; 
as are the statues of Apollo, Ura¬ 
nia, and Pan, with the young 
Olynthus, on the right side ; and 
the two seated figures of Roman 
Matrons" 1 , and the group of 
Hercules killing the Centaur 
Nessus, at the end. 

Second Corridor. On each side 
near the ceiling, is a continuation 
of the portraits of the most re¬ 
nowned characters of antiquity; 
here, likewise, are paintings con¬ 
taining the history of S. Maria 
Maddalena, together with several 
pieces of sculpture, namely, Cu¬ 
pid ; Bacchus and Ampelos; a 


Bacchante ; Mercury ; Leda ; 
Venus rising from the bath; 
Minerva ; or, Pallas-^/tcnas ; 
a round altar! supposed to be the 
work of Cleomenes ; a tripod, de¬ 
dicated to Mars ; a Faun ; Gany¬ 
mede with the eagle; a torso of 
a Faun! fyc. 

Third Corridor. The ceiling 
of this immense Gallery is adorned 
with paintings, representing the 
revival of the Arts and Sciences, 
with other historical subjects ; in 
which are introduced portraits of 
all the most eminent characters 
among the Florentines. On each 
side, near the ceiling, is a conti¬ 
nuation of the portraits of the 
most renowned characters of an¬ 
tiquity ; and, on the left side, 
below the portraits, are paintings 
of the Neapolitan, and other 
schools. Here, likewise, is a 
large number of statues ; among 
which are Marsyas—Bacchus, by 
Buonaroti—S. John, by Dona¬ 
tello—and a copy of the Laocoon, 
by Bandinelli—an antique re¬ 
cumbent Statue, in black marble, 
supposed to represent Morpheus ! 
—David, by Donatello—Bacchus, 
by Sansovino—Apollo seated—a 
wounded Soldier—a Discobolus, 
attributed to Myron ! and a The¬ 
tis on a sea-horse. This apart¬ 
ment also contains a fine picture 
of S. Peter healing the lame man 
at the gate of the temple, by Co- 
simo Gamberucci; another of the 
transfiguration, by Luca Giorda¬ 
no ; and another of the Madonna, 
our Saviour, and S. John, copied, 
by Empoli, from a celebrated 
fresco, which was painted by An¬ 
drea del Sarto, and is now de¬ 
stroyed. Among the most striking 
busts in the Corridors are those of 
Nero, Otho, Titus-Vespasian, 
and Antonius Pius. 


(m) One of these is supposed to represent Agrippina, the Mother of Nero. 


60 


FLORENCE. [Cli. IIL 


Cabinet of modern bronzes. 
Mercury standing' on the wind, 
by Giovanni di Bologna!!—Bust 
of Cosimo de’ Medici, by Cellini ! 
Bassi - rilievi representing - S. 
Francis Xavier, S. Joseph, and 
S. Teresa, by Soldani—a recum¬ 
bent Statue, by Vecchietta of 
Siena—an anatomical statue, by 
Cigoli—a Child with wings, at¬ 
tributed to Donatello—David, at¬ 
tributed, likewise, to Donatello— 
a copy of the Farnese bull—the 
sacrifice of Abraham, by Ghi¬ 
berti !—a small copy of the Lao- 
coon! 

Cabinet o f antique bronzes ; 
enclosed in fourteen glass-cases— 
the first of which contains, Apis, 
Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, and a 
remarkable head of Saturn; Juno, 
with Etruscan characters on her 
hip ! a Grecian bust of Minerva, 
Sfc. Second case. Venus with 
her attributes—a celestial Venus 
—a triumphant Venus—an Her¬ 
maphrodite!—an Amazon!—Mars 
armed, S?c. Third case. Hercules, 
Bacchus, and Bacchantes—a Faun 
playing the Doric flute—the la¬ 
bours of Hercules represented by 
a multitude of small statues—a 
Genius giving ambrosia to Bac¬ 
chus ! Fourth case. Victory, 
Fortune, Genii, Egyptian divini¬ 
ties ; among which is a beautiful 
Serapis, and Isis, crowned with a 
disk, holding Horus on her lap. 
Fifth case. Etruscan divinities ; 
a very fine collection, Sixth case. 
Portraits of men and women ; 
fragments of statues, beautifully 
executed ; and a small skeleton. 
Seventh case. Animals of various 
kinds, which served for votive of¬ 
ferings ; symbols, and military 
ensigns; a hippogriff, a chinuera; 
a bull with a man’s head; a Roman 

(n ) Winekclmann seems (o have thought 
this fine statue the work of a Grecian ar- 


eagle, which belonged to the twen¬ 
ty-fourth Legion—and an open 
hand, called by the Romans Ma - 
nipulus. Eighth case. Sacri¬ 
ficial instruments, altars, and tri¬ 
pods ; a curious sistrum ; a mural 
crown, §c. Ninth case. Cande¬ 
labra and lamps. Tenth case. 
Helmets, spurs, bits, fyc., for 
horses ; rings, bracelets, ear-rings, 
all made of gold ; mirrors of white 
metal; and needles made of hair. 
Eleventh case. Ancient inscrip¬ 
tions graven on bronze—a manu¬ 
script, on wax, nearly effaced— 
Roman scales and weights ; Sfc. 
Twelfth and thirteenth cases. 
Kitchen utensils—a silver disk ! 
on which is represented Flavius 
Ardaburius, who was Consul of 
Rome in 342. Fourteenth case. 
Locks, keys, and some monuments 
of the primitive Christians; among 
which is a lamp in the shape of a 
boat, with a figure of S. Peter at 
the stern. Middle of the cabinet. 
The Head of a Horse! An 
Orator, with Etruscan characters 
engraved on his robe ! !-—this fine 
statue was found near the Lake 
of Perugia — a Chimaera, with 
Etruscan characters engraved on 
one of the legs !! it was found 
near Arezzo—An Etruscan statue 
of a Genius, or, perhaps, a Bac¬ 
chus, found at Pesaro n ! H A Mi¬ 
nerva, injured by fire, but very 
beautiful; on the helmet is a dra¬ 
gon, the symbol of vigilance and 
prudence!! This statue was found 
near Arezzo, and one arm has been 
restored. Behind the Cliimsera is 
a Torso! and, before it, a Tri¬ 
pod! supposed to have belonged 
to a temple of Apollo. This ca¬ 
binet likewise contains four busts, 
found in the sea, near Leghorn ; 
they appear to be Grecian sculp- 

tist; especially as Pesaro was a Grecian 
colony. 


FLORENCE. 


cl 


CL. III.] 

iure, and one of them resembles 
Homer 0 . 

Hall of Niobe. At the upper- 
end of this magnificent apartment 
is the celebrated group of Niobe 
and her youngest child ; supposed 
to have been done by Scopas ; 
and generally considered as the 
most interesting effort of the 
Grecian chisel Italy can boast: it 
is not, however, perfect; as one 
of the mother’s hands, and one of 
the child’s feet, have been re¬ 
stored. Round the apartment are 
statues of the other children of 
Niobe ; which seem the work of 
various artists. The daughter, 
next to Niobe, on the left, is ad¬ 
mirably executed; the opposite 
statue, on the right, has great 
merit ; the dead son is wonderfully 
fine ; but, considering the fable, 
it appears extraordinary that the 
sculptor should have placed him 
on a cushion. The two daughters 
on each side of Peedagogus, and 
the third statue, on the left of 
the entrance door, have great me¬ 
rit. It is extremely to be re¬ 
gretted that these chefs-(l'oeuvres 
of art are not disposed in such a 
manner as to accord with the 
subject. 

The second statue on the left 
of the entrance door is a Psyche, 
and has nothing to do with the 
tragedy of Niobe ; but was intro¬ 
duced merely to adorn the apart¬ 
ment ; as likewise was the statue 
of a youth kneeling, and appa¬ 
rently wounded. 

The walls of this room are 
adorned with the following pic- 

(o) The Etruscan Bronzes of the Floren¬ 
tine Gallery are supposed to have been ex¬ 
ecuted at a period when Sculpture of this 
sort had reached its zenith of perfection in 
Etruria ; where, according to Pausanias, 
bronze statues existed much earlier than in 
Greece. We are told that Romulus had 
his statue made of bronze, probably by an 
Etruscan artist; we are likewise told that 


tures. A portrait of a Princess, 
resembling Mary Queen of Scot¬ 
land, by Vandyck. A gipsy 
telling a young woman her for¬ 
tune ; and the adoration of the 
Infant Jesus ; both by Gherardo 
delle notti—a Bacchanalian party, 
by Rubens—a story from Ariosto, 
by Guido—a man with a monkey, 
by Annibale Caracci—the Ma¬ 
donna, our Saviour, S. John, fyc.; 
by Fra. Bartolommeo della Porta! 
—a portrait of Lorenzo de’ Me¬ 
dici Duke of Nemours, by Ales¬ 
sandro Allori — the Dispute in 
the Temple, by M. A. Caravag¬ 
gio—Mars armed, by Guercino. 
S. Maria Maddelana, by Carlo 
Dolci—the Madonna entreating 
our Saviour to bless the Charita¬ 
ble, called the Madonna del Po- 
polo, by Baroccio !—a portrait of 
the Sculptor Francavilla, by Por- 
bus—a Madonna, by Sassoferato 
—a head of S. Peter in tears, by 
Lanfranco.—The martyrdom of 
S. Stephen, by Cigoli!—S. 
Clovis, of the Cordeliers, by 
Carlo Dolci—Elizabeth, Duchess 
of Mantua, by Andrea Mantegna 
—the Infant Jesus with Angels, 
by Albano—and the Madonno, 
our Saviour, 8,-c.; supposed to 
have been designed by Leonardo 
da Vinci, and coloured by Ber¬ 
nardino Luino. 

Cabinet of Greek and Latin 
Inscriptions , Egyptian Monu¬ 
ments, 8>-c, Here are two Egyp¬ 
tian divinities in basalt—sepul¬ 
chral Monuments—Brutus, by 
Buonaroti, only just commenced; 
and above it the first work of that 

this event occurred about the eighth Olym¬ 
piad ; and it does not appear that the 
Greeks worked in bronze till about the 
sixtieth Olympiad. During the infancy of 
bronze sculpture, the component parts of 
statues were fastened together with nails : 
this is exemplified by six female figures of 
bronze, found in Herculaneum. 


FLORENCE. 


62 

artist, (the head of a Satyr) exe¬ 
cuted when he was only fifteen, 
and the cause of his introduction 
to the Platonic Academy. Busts 
of Euripides — Demosthenes — 
Aratus— Pythagoras—Sappho— 
Alcibiades— Sophocles — Aristo¬ 
phanes—Plato—Homer—Seneca 
—Ovid—Solon— Socrates— An¬ 
acreon—Hippocrates, &c. 

Cabinet containing portraits 
of Painters , chiefly done by 
themselves. In the centre of this 
apartment is the celebrated Vase 
of the Villa Medicis, adorned with 
bassi-rilievi representing - the sa¬ 
crifice of Iphigenia!! Tbe ceiling 
is painted by Pietro Dandini: 
round the walls are portraits of 
Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, 
Buonaroti, Titian, the Caracci 
family, Domenichino, Albano, 
Guercino, Guido, Vandyck, Ve¬ 
lasquez, Rembrandt, Charles Le 
Brun, Vander-Werf, fyc. tyc. 
The apartment which communi¬ 
cates with this, likewise contains 
portraits of Painters.—The ceil¬ 
ing - is painted by Bimbacci; and 
in the centre of the room is a 
magnificent table of Florentine 
Mosaic work p. Round the walls 
are portraits of Mengs, Batoni, 
Reynolds, Angelica Kaufman, 
and Madame Lebrun: and here, 
also, is a marble bust of Mrs. Da¬ 
rner, done by herself. 

Cabinet containing pictures 
of the Venetian School. Portrait 
of a man with his hand on a skull, 
by Titian—portrait of Sansovino, 
by ditto—portrait of an old man, 
by Morone—our Saviour dead, by 
Giovanni Bellino—a figure in a 
Spanish dress, by Morone—the 
Madonna, our Saviour, S. John, 
Sfc., by Titian—Venus with her 

(p) Florentine Mosaic Work, called 
Opera di Comincsso , consists of sparks of 
gems, and minute pieces of the finest mar- 


[Ch. III. 

attendants, and Adonis dead, by 
Bonvicino—portraits of Francesco 
Duke of Urbino, and his Duchess, 
by Titian!—four heads, by Paolo 
Veronese, Paris Bordone, Tiberio 
Tinelli, and Campagnola—two 
dogs, by Bassano—portrait of 
Giovanni de’ Medici, the father 
Cosimo i, by Titian!—the mar¬ 
riage at Cana in Galilee, by Tin¬ 
toretto—portrait of a man in 
black with red hair, by Bordone 
—the Madonna, our Saviour, and 
S. Catherine, who is offering him 
a pomegranate, by Titian!! and 
the portrait of a woman with 
flowers, commonly called The 
Flora ! by the same master—the 
Crucifixion, by Paolo Veronese—• 
portrait of Sansovino in old age, 
by Tintoretto — portrait of a 
Knight of Malta, by Giorgione— 
portrait of a Geometrician, by 
Palma Vecchio. 

Cabinet of Gems, SfC. This 
apartment is ornamented with 
fine columns of oriental alabaster, 
and verde antique ; and contains 
a most valuable collection of me¬ 
dals, gems, $c., together with a 
table of Florentine mosaic work, 
executed when the manufacture 
was in its infancy, and represent¬ 
ing the ancient port of Leghorn. 

Cabinet containing pictures of 
the French School. The ceilings 
of this apartment, and those that 
communicate with it, were painted 
by the Poccetti-school. Pictures 
on the walls—Theseus raising the 
enormous stone, under which his 
father hid the sword he was to 
take to Athens ! by N. Poussin— 
Venus and Adonis, by the same 
master. 

Cabinet containing pictures 
of the Flemish School. Bust of 

ble, so placed as to imitate flowers, insects, 
and paintings of every description. 


FLORENCE. 


Ch. III.] 

a man wrapped up in fur, with a 
cap on his head, by Denner!—a 
landscape, by Paul Brill—ditto, 
by Claude Lorrain.—The inside 
of a church, by Peter Neff—and 
the inside of a prison, where the 
death of Seneca is represented, 
likewise by Peter Neff. 

Cabinet containing pictures 
of the Dutch School. A school¬ 
master teaching- a child to read, 
by Gerard Dow—nine pictures by 
Francis Mieris, namely, a Char¬ 
latan exhibiting- his tricks—an 
old Lover and his Mistress—a 
Man seated at table, with a bottle 
of beer ; and, near him, a woman 
and a man asleep—the portrait of 
the Son of Mieris—his own por¬ 
trait—ditto, in another attitude— 
a Woman sleeping-, and two other 
figures—the Painter's family— 
and a peasant cutting bread, 
while his wife drinks beer.—The 
judgment of Solomon, by Vander- 
Werf—and the Saviour in the 
manger! by the same artist. 

Cabinet containing pictures 
o f the Italian School. The head 
of Medusa, by M. A. Caravaggio! 
—the bust of the Madonna press¬ 
ing our Saviour to her bosom, 
by Carlo Cignani!—the rape of 
Europa, by Albano—the massacre 
of the Innocents, by Dosso Dossi 
—the Madonna, the Saviour, and 
S. John, with Joseph in the back¬ 
ground, by Schidone !—the Ma¬ 
donna, the Saviour, and S. John, 
by Massari—the same subject, by 
Guiclo—the breaking of bread, by 
Palma Vecchio—a landscape, by 
Salvator Rosa! and an annun¬ 
ciation, by Garofalo. 

Cabinet , called the Tribune. 
This elegant apartment, built after 
the design of Buontalenti, and 

(q ) Winckelmann thought this work not 
unworthy either of Cephissodorus, who 
made the Symplegma at Ephesus; or, of 


63 

paved with precious marbles, con ¬ 
tains admirable specimens of 
sculpture and painting. Here is 
the Venus de’ Medici, found in 
Adrian's Villa, and supposed to 
have been done by Praxiteles !!!! 

•—the Apollo (called Apollino / !) 
attributed to the same great ar¬ 
tist—the dancing Faun!!! evi¬ 
dently a production of the best 
age of ancient sculpture, and ex¬ 
cellently restored by Buonaroti— 
the Arrotino ! ! found at Rome, 
and supposed to represent the 
Scythian Slave, when commanded 
to flay Marsyas—and the group 
of the Lottatori , or wrestlers q!! 
found with the Niobe. The Venus 
de’ Medici is about five English 
feet in height; the hands are mo¬ 
dern ; indeed the statue, when 
first discovered, was broken in 
thirteen places. Pliny mentions 
six famous Venusses; one, by 
Phidias, which stood under the 
Portico of Octavia, at Rome ; an¬ 
other, finished by Phidias, but 
begun by his pupil; and this 
stood just without the town of 
Athens ; another, at Rome, in 
the Temple of Brutus Callaicus ; 
and a fourth, by an unknown 
artist, which was placed in the 
Temple of Peace : another, made 
by Praxiteles, and veiled, was pur¬ 
chased by the people of Cos ; and 
the sixth, an undraped figure, was 
sent to Gnidus: but this latter, 
the more excellent work of the 
two, is supposed to have been de¬ 
stroyed at Constantinople ; as was 
the Olympian Jupiter of Phidias, 
the Juno of Samos, 8>-c. It seems, 
therefore, impossible to discover, 
from the author just quoted, whe¬ 
ther the modest and beautiful 
Venus de’ Medici be, or be not, 

Heliodorus, who executed a similar group. 
These artists were the sons of Praxiteles. 


64 


FLORENCE. 


the child of Praxiteles. Among* 
the pictures of the Tribune are, 
the Epiphany, by Albert Durer— 
Endymion sleeping, by Guercino 
—a Sibyl, by the same magic 
pencil—a Holy Family, by Buo- 
naroti—Venus, with a Love be¬ 
hind her, by Titian—another Ve¬ 
nus, with flowers in her right 
hand, and at her feet a dog! also 
by Titian—a portrait of the pre¬ 
late, Beccadelli, by the same mas¬ 
ter—a Holy Family, with the 
Magdalene, and the Prophet 
Isaiah, by Parmigiano—three pic¬ 
tures, namely, the Circumcision, 
the adoration of the Magi, and 
the Resurrection, by Mantegna 
—the Madonna, our Saviour, S. 
Francesco, and S. John the Evan ¬ 
gelist, by Andrea del Sarto !—the 
Madonna in contemplation, by 
Guido !—the massacre of the In¬ 
nocents, by Daniello da Volterra!! 
—the portrait of Cardinal Ague- 
chia, by Domenichino !—the Holy 
Family and S. Catherine, by Paolo 
Veronese—a Bacchante and a 
Satyr, by Annibale Caracci!!— 
S. Jerome, by Spagnoletto—the 
Madonna, our Saviour, S. John, 
and S. Sebastiano, the two former 
seated, the two latter standing, by 
Pietro Perugino!—Six pictures 
by Raphael, namely, a portrait of 
Maddalena Doni, a Florentine 
lady, in his first style—two Holy 
Families, in an improved style, 
though still partaking of the Peru- 
gino-school—S. John in the wil¬ 
derness !!! a portrait of Pope 
Giulio ii., ! and another of La 
Fornarina ! ! who was celebrated 
for her attachment to Raphael, all 
three painted in his last and best 
style—a portrait, by Vandyck, 
supposed to represent Jean de 
Montford — and another repre¬ 
senting Charles v., on horseback 
—a Holy Family, by Schidone— 


[Ch. nr. 

Job and Isaiah, by Fra Bartolom¬ 
meo della Porta!—the flight into 
Egypt, by Correggio!—the Virgin 
adoring the infant Jesus, by ditto! 
the decapitation of S. John, by 
ditto—Herodias receiving the head 
of S. John, by Leonardo da Vin¬ 
ci !—a Madonna and Child, by 
Giulio Romano — Hercules be¬ 
tween Vice and Virtue, by Ru¬ 
bens. 

Cabinet containing pictures of 
the Tuscan School. Jesus sleep¬ 
ing on his cross, by Cristofano 
Allori—the head of Medusa, with 
the hair changed into serpents, by 
Leonardo da Vinci!—our Saviour 
dead in the arms of the Madonna, 
by Angelo Allori—our Saviour, 
the Apostles, the Maries, fyc., by 
Carlo Dolci—an Angel playing on 
a guitar, by Rosso—a small por¬ 
trait of Dante—ditto of Petrarca 
—portrait of Andrea del Sarto, 
by himself-—S. Simon, by Carlo 
Dolci—S. Peter, by ditto—a Child 
holding a bird, by A. Allori—a 
Sketch, by Leonardo da Vinci! 

Second Cabinet of the Tuscan 
School. The Visitation of Eliza¬ 
beth, by Mariotto Albertinelli— 
a miracle performed by S. Zeno- 
bio, Bishop of Florence, by Ri- 
dolpho Ghirlandajo! — the body 
of the Saint carried to the cathe¬ 
dral, by ditto !—the Madonna, 
our Saviour, S. Zenobio, and other 
saints, by Domenico Ghirlandajo. 

Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite. 
A colossal bust of Juno!—a co¬ 
lossal head of Neptune—an Her¬ 
maphrodite of Greek sculpture! 
and a Satyr of modern sculpture 
—a group of two Children play¬ 
ing—a bust of Cicero!—a bust of 
Marcus Antonius, very rare—- 
Ganymede, restored by Cellini—- 
a statue called Genio della Morte 
—a group of Cupid and Psyche, 
found on the Mons Celius, at- 


65 


Ch * HI.] FLORENCE. 


Rome !—a bust of Antinous—an 
infant Hercules—a colossal bust of 
Jupiter—a bust of Berenice, the 
wile of Titus, and queen of part 
of Judea !—a bust of Alexander 
the Great!! a sleeping - Love !— 
a recumbent statue of an Herma¬ 
phrodite ! 

The Palazzo-Pitti, where the 
Grand Duke of Tuscany usually 
resides, was begun after the de¬ 
sign of Filippo di Ser Brunellesco, 
the most celebrated architect of 
the fifteenth century, and finished 
by Ammannati. In the quadrangle 
is the hasso-rilievo of a Mule, 
who constantly drew a sledge which 
contained the materials employed 
in the building ; and over this has¬ 
so-rilievo is a statue of Hercules, 
attributed to Lysippus r . On the 
ground-floor is a chapel, which 
contains a beautiful altar of Flo¬ 
rentine work, with the last supper, 
executed in jiietri duri, in its 
centre—the ceiling and walls are 
adorned with frescos, of which 
that representing the Crucifixion 
seems the best. The ground-floor 
likewise contains fine Frescos by 
Sebastiano Ricci, Giovanni da San 
Giovanni, tyc. The first room up¬ 
stairs contains ten statues taken 
from the Villa-Medicis; and the 
best of these is a Minerva. The 
second room contains busts of Ro¬ 
man Emperors, and other sculp¬ 
ture, likewise taken from the Villa- 
Medicis. In the third room are 
the following paintings. A por¬ 
trait, by Rembrandt—another, of 
Titian’s mistress, by himself— 
three landscapes, by Salvator Ro¬ 
sa—a battle-piece, by ditto!!—two 
landscapes, by Rubens—Astrolo¬ 
gers, by Zingona—Hunters with 
game, by Giovanni da San Gio¬ 
vanni. Fourth room —our Saviour 


at supper, by Palma Veechio—a 
portrait of the Secretary S. Ju- 
liano, by Cris. Allori—a Child, bv 
Santi di Tito—our Saviour dead, 
S. John, the Madonna, and Mary 
Magdalene, by Fra Bartolommeo!! 
—a portrait of Giulio n., by Por- 
denone—the Deposition from the 
Cross, by Andrea del Sarto—a 
Holy Family, by Pordenone.— 
Fifth room —the Madonna della 
seggiola, by Raphael!!!! — S. 
Mark, by Fra Bartolommeo!!!— 
two pictures of Joseph and his 
Brethren, by Andrea del Sarto— 
a copy of Raphael’s fresco of S. 
Peter delivered from prison, by 
Federico Zuccari—the Madonna 
and Angels, by Luca Giordano— 
S. Peter, by Carlo Dolci—our Sa¬ 
viour and other figures, by Cigoli 
—S. Sebastiano, by Titian. Sixth 
room —S. John, as a child, sleep¬ 
ing on the cross, by Carlo Dolci! 
—two pictures of the Assumption, 
by Andrea del Sarto—the Hours, 
by Giulio Romano!—a Holy Fa¬ 
mily, by Titian—S. Sebastiano, 
hy Annibale Caracci—Cleopatra, 
by Guido—Andrea del Sarto and 
his wife, by himself—Giulio ir., by 
Raphael!!—S. John, by Carlo 
Dolci—our Saviour and saints, by 
Fra Bartolommeo!—a dead Christ, 
by Pietro Perugino—a Madonna 
and other figures, by Raphael!— 
four Saints, by Andrea del Sarto. 
Seventh room. The Madonna, our 
Saviour, fyc., by Fra Bartolom¬ 
meo !!—Calvin, Luther, and Ca¬ 
therine a Boria! by Giorgione da 
Castel-Franco,nne of the F ounders 
of the Lombard-school—the Ma¬ 
donna, tyc., by Andrea del Sarto 
—a head, by Carlo Dolci!—Leox., 
by Raphael!! Eighth room —the 
Fates, by Buonaroti!!—our Sa¬ 
viour and the Madonna crowned. 


(r) According to Winckelman, this statue, though ancient, is of a time 
posterior to that of Lysippus. 


F 


66 


FLORENCE. 


by Carlo Dolci—a Holy Family, 
by Raphael!—a Magdalene, by 
Titian—a Child, by Correggio— 
S. John, by Andrea del Sarto. 
Ninth room —our Saviour in the 
Garden, by Carlo Dolci!!—a 
Holy Family, by Schidone ! The 
ceilings of these apartments, up 
stairs, painted by Pietro de Cor¬ 
tona and his Scholars, represent 
the patriotic actions of the Medici 
family under emblems taken from 
Heathen Mythology. 

Ceiling of the Camera di Ve~ 
nere. Minerva forcing a Youth 
(by whom is meant Cosimo i.,) 
from the arms of Venus, to place 
him under the guidance of Her¬ 
cules ; while the Genius of War 
shews him the laurel-wreath he 
ought to aspire after—The con¬ 
tinence of Scipio—Antiochus quit¬ 
ting his mistress, to go where duty 
calls him—Crispus, son of the Em¬ 
peror Constantine, resisting the 
solicitations of Fausta, his step¬ 
mother—Cyrus dismissing his pri¬ 
soner, Panthea, that he might not 
be seduced by her charms—Au¬ 
gustus shewing Cleopatra that her 
beauty had not power to captivate 
him—Alexander receiving the mo¬ 
ther and wife of Darius with hu¬ 
manity, but without being be¬ 
trayed into faulty admiration of 
the latter—Massinissa sending 
poison to the Queen of Numidia, 
that she might avoid, by death, 
the disgrace of swelling Scipio’s 
triumph. 

While Pietro da Cortona was 
employed in painting the Camera 
di Venere, Ferdinando n., who 
came to view the work, expressed 
great admiration of a child drowned 
in tears. “ See,” replied the 
painter, “ with what facility chil¬ 
dren are made either to laugh or 
weep!” and, so saying, he gave 
one stroke with his brush, and the 


[Ch. III. 

child appeared to be laughing; 
till, with another stroke, he re- 
stored the countenance to its ori¬ 
ginal form. 

Ceiling of the Camera d'Apol¬ 
lo. A Youth, who again repre¬ 
sents Cosimo i., inspired with po¬ 
etic lire, and Apollo shewing him 
the celestial globe, that he may 
sing of its wonders—Caesar at¬ 
tending* to instructive books as he 
walks, that he may not waste 
time—Augustus, after having shut 
the temple of Janus, cherishing 
the Muses, and listening to the 
iEneid—Alexander preparing to 
march, and taking with him part 
of the Iliad—the Emperor Justi¬ 
nian forming a code of laws. 

Ceiling of the Camera di 
Marte. Cosimo i., under the form 
of a young warrior, leaping out 
of a boat, and celibating with his 
lance ; while Mars assists him, by 
darting lightning at his enemies— 
Castor and Pollux carrying* the 
spoils of the vanquished to Her¬ 
cules, who makes them into a 
trophy — Captives loaded with 
chains supplicating the Goddess of 
Victory; Peace, with the olive- 
branch in her hand, giving them 
comfort; while Abundance revives, 
and scatters blessings among the 
conquered people. 

Ceiling of the Camera di Giove. 
Jupiter receiving a young Hero, 
who still represents Cosimo i., and 
is conducted to Olympus, by Her¬ 
cules and Fortune, in order to re¬ 
ceive a crown of immortality. A 
Genius holds his hands before the 
Hero’s eyes, to prevent their being 
dazzled by the splendour of the 
Thunderer; while another Genius 
presents the young man’s armour, 
perforated with javelins, to the 
Goddess of Victory, who engraves 
his name upon a shield: she is 
supposed to have just begun, and 


67 


FLORENCE. 


Ch. III.] 

only written the initial letter of 
the word Medicis . The fres¬ 
cos, in form of a fan, represent 
the emblems of peace ; namely, 
Minerva planting an olive-tree— 
Mars mounted on Pegasus—Cas¬ 
tor and Pollux with their horses 
coupled together—Vulcan repo¬ 
sing in his forge—Diana sleeping 
after the chase. Apollo, god of 
arts, and Mercury, god of com¬ 
merce and wealth, appear among 
the emblems of peace ; while the 
General of the Vanquished is re¬ 
presented as making ineffectual 
efforts to snap his chains • in which 
attempt he is aided by Discord, 
who carries in her hand a torch to 
relume the flames of war. 

Ceiling of the Stanza di Er- 
cole. Hercules on the funeral- 
pile ; above which is the apotheo¬ 
sis of that Hero, whom Mars and 
Prudence conduct to Olympus, 
where he receives a crown of im¬ 
mortality. 

The Palazzo-Pitti may usually 
be seen from eleven till twelve in 
the morning, and from three till 
five in the afternoon. The Custode 
up stairs expects from four to six 
pauls, according to the size of the 
party he attends ; and the servant 
below stairs expects two or three 
pauls. 

The Giardino di Bohol i, open 
to the public on Sundays and 
Thursdays, is very large, and con¬ 
tains several pieces of sculpture ; 
the most remarkable of which are 
two Dacian prisoners, in oriental 
porphyry, at the entrance ; a co¬ 
lossal Ceres ; the Fountain at the 
end of the principal walk, de¬ 
corated with a colossal Neptune 
standing on a granite basin above 
twenty feet in diameter, with the 
Ganges, Nile, and Euphrates be¬ 
neath, all by Giovanni di Bologna ; 
Neptune, in bronze, surrounded 


with sea-monsters, by Lorenzi; 
and four unfinished statues by 
Buonaroti. 

The Museo d'Istoria Naturale, 
collected by the Grand Duke Leo- 
poldo, is said to be the finest mu¬ 
seum existing, with respect to the 
anatomical preparations in wax 
and wood, the petrifactions and 
minerals, and the thick-leafed, 
milky, and spongy plants ; which 
cannot be preserved in the com¬ 
mon way, and are therefore beau¬ 
tifully represented in wax, to com¬ 
plete the botanical part of this 
princely collection. All the ana¬ 
tomical preparations, in wax and 
wood, were executed under the 
orders of Cav. F. Fontana, except 
the famous representation of the 
Plague, which was done by the 
Abate Lumbo in the days of the 
Medici, and is so painfully fine 
that few persons can bear to exa¬ 
mine it. This masterly perform¬ 
ance owes its present place to Cav. 
Giovanni Fabbroni, a gentleman 
already mentioned, who has not 
only contributed essentially to the 
improvement of the museum, but 
likewise to that of arts and sci¬ 
ences in general. Below stairs is 
a Laboratory. On the first floor 
are two rooms filled with large 
quadrupeds, fishes, fyc .—a Library 
—rooms destined to Mechanics, 
Hydraulics, Electricity, and Ma¬ 
thematics ; together with a Bota¬ 
nic Garden: and on the second 
floor are twenty rooms, containing 
the representation of the Plague 
and anatomical preparations ; all 
of which may be avoided by per¬ 
sons not inclined to see them. In 
another suite o f apartments, on 
the same floor, are Birds, Fishes, 
Reptiles, Insects, Shells, Fossils, 
Minerals, Wax-plants, fyc. The 
observatory makes a part of this 
Museum, which is usually open to 

f 2 


68 


FLORENCE. 


the public every day, festivals ex¬ 
cepted, from eight in the morning 
till twelve ; and again from three 
till five in the afternoon. 

Santa Maria del Fiore, or the 
Dnomo, was begun about the year 
1294, by Arnolfo, and finished 
about the year 1445, by Brunel- 
lesco; it measures 426 feet in 
length, and in width 363. Its 
cupola was completed by the last- 
named architect; who has gained 
immortal honour by the perform¬ 
ance. Its lantern, designed by 
Brunellesco, is of solid marble, 
finely carved. The outward walls 
of this vast church are incrusted 
with black and white polished 
marble; the pavement is marble, 
and the balustrades and pillars 
which surround the tribuna were 
designed by Buonaroti, and orna¬ 
mented with bassi-rilievi, by Ban- 
dinelli and Giovanni del Opera. 
Toward the Via de' Servi, over a 
door of curious workmanship, is 
an Annunciation in mosaic, called 
by the ancients, lithostratam, and 
executed by Ghirlandajo: another 
specimen of the same kind is placed 
within the church, above the great 
door. Over the southern door is 
a group of the Madonna and our 
Saviour between two Angels, by 
Giovanni Pisano. At the upper 
end of the choir is a crucifix, by 
Benedetto da Majano ; behind the 
high altar, a marble Pietd, said to 
have been the last work of Buona¬ 
roti, which death prevented him 
from completing!; and on the al¬ 
tar are three statues, by Bandi- 
nelli, of God the Father, our Sa¬ 
viour, and an Angel. This edifice 

(s) Dante was born at Florence, A.D. 
1261. He fought in two battles; was four¬ 
teen times appointed Ambassador, and once 
Prior of the Republic: but, nevertheless, 
without having committed any crime against 
his country, he was stripped of his fortune, 


[Ch. III. 

contains statues, portraits, and mo¬ 
numents of celebrated characters 
of the Florentine Republic. On 
the right, near the great door, is a 
bust of Brunellesco ; next to this, 
a bust of Giotto ; further on, are 
Pietro Farnese, General of the 
Florentines, and Marsilio Fecini, 
the Reviver of the Platonic philo¬ 
sophy ; a man, as remarkable for 
his learning, as for the lowness of 
his stature. Near the door leading 
to the Via de' Servi, is an antique 
portrait of Dante, the father of 
Italian poetry ; whose tomb, how¬ 
ever, is at Ravenna, where he died 
in exile. This portrait was done 
by Andrea Orgagna; and so highly 
do the Florentines venerate the 
memory of Dante, that the place 
where he often sat, in the Piazza 
del Duomo, is carefully distin¬ 
guished by a white stone*. Near 
to this great Poet, is a picture of 
Giovanni Acuto, the Pisan Gene¬ 
ral ; and another of Niccolo da 
Tolentino; and under the first- 
named picture is an inscription, 
which says, Acuto was a British 
Knight 1 . In the Chapel of S. 
Zenobio is a bronze ciborio, by 
Ghiberti; and the door of the Sa¬ 
cristy was executed by Luca della 
Robbia u . 

The Campanile , a quadrangu¬ 
lar tower of black, white, and red 
marble, designed by Giotto, and 
begun in 1334, is 280 feet in 
height, and the most beautiful edi¬ 
fice of its kind in Italy. The four 
statues, on the side nearest to the 
Baptistery, are by Donatello ; and 
one of these (called, by its author, 
his Zuccone , or Bald-pate,) he 

banished, and even condemned to be burnt 
alive. 

( t) Supposed to have been Sir John Hawk- 
wood, who died in the reign of Richard II. 

(m) The Meridian in this church is said 
to be the largest astronomical instrument 
in Europe. 


FLORENCE. 


69 


Ch. III.] 

preferred to all his other works, 
partly from the beauty of the sculp¬ 
ture, and partly because it resem¬ 
bled one of his friends. The other 
statues are by Niccolo Aretino, 
Andrea Pisano, Giottino, and Luca 
della Robbia. 

A. Giovanni, or the Baptistery, 
supposed to have been originally 
a temple of Mars, is of an octan¬ 
gular form, with a roof somewhat 
like that of the Pantheon. The 
exterior walls are incrusted with 
polished marble; and the two 
bronze doors, done by Ghiberti, 
after the designs of Arnolfo, and 
formerly gilt, are so peculiarly 
beautiful, that Buonaroti used to 
say, they deserved to have been 
the gates of Paradise. The other 
door was executed by Andrea Pi¬ 
sano, after the designs of Giotto. 
The foliage and festoons, round 
the first-named doors, are by Ghi¬ 
berti's son, Bonacorsa; the bassi- 
rilievi represent scriptural histo¬ 
ries. On the outside of the Bap¬ 
tistery is a celebrated group, in 
bronze, by F Rustici, represent¬ 
ing S. John Baptist with a Scribe 
and a Pharisee. The two por¬ 
phyry columns, on the sides of the 
principal entrance, were presented 
by the Pisans to the Florentines, 
in consequence of the latter having 
guarded Pisa while its inhabitants 
were engaged in subduing Majorca 
and Minorca: and the pendent 
chains, seen here, and in other 
parts of the city, are trophies won 
by the Florentines when they con¬ 
quered the ancient Porto-Pisano. 
The interior part of the Baptistery 
is adorned with sixteen immense 
granite columns, which support a 
gallery; and between these columns 
are statues representing the twelve 
Apostles, the Law of nature, and 
the written Law, all by Amman- 


nati; except S. Simon, which, in 
consequence of the original statue 
being broken, was replaced by 
Spinnazzi. The high altar is 
adorned Avitli a statue of S. John 
Baptist in the act of being trans¬ 
ported to Heaven by Angels ; and 
this group, and the ornaments of 
the pulpit, are by Ticciati. On 
the ceiling are mosaics by Apollo¬ 
nius (a Grecian artist), Andrea 
Teffi, Gaddo Gaddi, fyc. The 
pavement is chiefly ancient mosaic, 
and in one part represents the sun, 
with the twelve signs of the zodiac. 
In ancient mosaic, likewise, is the 
following inscription, which may 
be read either backward or for- 
Avard: “ En giro torte Sol ciclos 
et rotor igne y ." 

The Chiesa di S. Marco, be¬ 
longing to the Padri Domenicani, 
is a handsome edifice, adorned Avith 
good sculpture and valuable paint¬ 
ings. On the right of the great 
door are—a Crucifixion, by Santi 
di Tito—the Madonna, our Sa¬ 
viour, and Saints, by Fra Barto¬ 
lommeo !—and an old mosaic, re¬ 
presenting the Madonna, fyc. The 
cupola of the tribuna Avas painted 
by. Alessandro Gherardini; and 
behind the high altar is the last 
Supper, by Sacconi. To the right 
of the tribuna is the Serragli cha¬ 
pel, the ceiling of which Avas painted 
by Poccetti! Here, likewise, are, 
the last Supper, by Santi di Tito, 
and the Supper of Emmaus, by 
Cav. Curradi. Further on, is the 
Salviati chapel, completely incrust¬ 
ed with marble, and containing a 
picture, by Alessandro Allori, of 
the return of our Saviour from 
Purgatory ; a statue of S. John 
Baptist, executed after the design 
of Giovanni di Bologna, by Fran- 
cavilla ; bronze bassi-rilievi, exe¬ 
cuted after t he designs of Giovanni 


(v) “ Phoebus drives on, oblique, bis fiery car. 


70 


FLORENCE. 


di Bologna, by Portigiani; a cu¬ 
pola, painted by Aless. Allori; two 
paintings, representing the expo¬ 
sition and translation of S. Anto- 
nino, by Passignano; and, un¬ 
der the arch of the chapel, S. 
Antonino in marble, by Giovanni 
di Bologna. Leading down the 
church, toward the great door, is 
a picture, by Cigoli, representing 
the Emperor Heraclius, in the 
habit of a Penitent, bearing the 
cross; a fine copy, by Gabbiani, 
of Fra Bartolommeo’s celebrated 
picture of the Madonna, our Sa¬ 
viour, and S. Catherine ; S. Vin- 
cenzio Fejrreri preaching to the 
people ; and the Transfiguration, 
by Paggi. The ceiling of the nave 
is painted by Pucci!; and the cur¬ 
tain of the organ, by Gherardini. 
In this church are buried two ce¬ 
lebrated men, Angelo Poliziano, 
and Giovanni Pico della Miran- 
dola, both highly famed for their 
learning ; and the latter was not 
only styled, “ Hie phoenix of the 
sciences,” but called, by Sealiger, 
“ A prodigy—a man without a 
fault!”—They both died in 1494. 
The Sacristy of S. Marco con¬ 
tains a statue of our Saviour, by 
Antonio Novelli ; two bassi-ri- 
lievi > by Conti; and, over the first 
door, within-side, a picture, by 
Beato Giovanni Angelico! The 
Library is rich in manuscripts— 
the Cloisters are adorned with 
frescos, by B. G. Angelico, Poc- 
cetti, Fra Bartolommeo, Carlo 
Dolci, §c.; and near the garden 
is a chapel, painted by Poccetti, 
and now the Spezieria, where the 
best essences in Florence are fa¬ 
bricated. 

The Church of the S. S. An- 
nunaiata contains a fresco of the 
Annunciation, done by a certain 
Bartolommeo; who being, it is 
said, at a loss how to make the 


[Ch. III. 

countenance of the Madonna pro¬ 
perly seraphic, fell asleep, while 
pondering over his work ; and, on 
waking, found it executed in a 
style he was unable to equal: up¬ 
on which, he instantly exclaimed, 
“ A miracle, a miracle I”—and his 
countrymen were too fond of mi¬ 
racles not to believe him ; although 
the Madonna’s face is by no means 
so exquisitely painted as to be at¬ 
tributed to a heavenly artist. The 
open Vestibule , leading* to the 
church, is ornamented with several 
frescos; namely, a nativity, by 
Baldovinetti; S. Filippo Benizzi 
induced to embrace the monastic 
life in consequence of a vision, by 
Rosselli; S. Filippo covering a 
naked Leper with his own shirt, 
by Andreo del Sarto ; S. Filippo, 
while travelling toward Modena, 
reviled by young men sitting un¬ 
der a tree, which, being struck 
with lightning, two of the revilers 
are killed ;—this is by Andrea del 
Sarto ; as are, S. Filippo deliver¬ 
ing a young person from an evil 
spirit;—a dead child restored to 
life, by touching the garment which 
covered the corpse of the Saint— 
women and children kneeling round 
a friar, who is adorned with the 
relics of S. Filippo’s clothes ;—• 
and seven lunettes, on the other 
side of the vestibule. The mar¬ 
riage of the Madonna, is by Fran- 
cabigio ; the visit of Mary to Eli¬ 
sabeth, by Pontormo; and the 
Assumption, by Rossi. This Cor¬ 
ridor contains a bust of Andrea 
del Sarto. The Church of the 
Annunziata is loaded with orna¬ 
ments : it contains, in the centre 
of the ceiling, an Assumption, by 
Volterrano ; who likewise painted 
the cupola of the Tribuna! In 
the chapel which encloses the mira¬ 
culous picture, is an altar, adorned 
with silver bassi-rilievi; two silver 


Ch. III.] FLORENCE. 71 


candelabra, about six feet high; 
two large silver statues of angels ; 
a ciborio, beautifully worked, and 
embellished with a head of our Sa¬ 
viour, by Andrea del Sarto ; a sil¬ 
ver cornice, from which hangs a 
curtain of the same metal; and 
an immense number of silver lilies, 
and lamps, which encircle the altar. 
The pavement of this chapel is 
porphyry and Egyptian granite; 
and, in the adjoining Oratory, 
whose walls are incrusted with 
agate, jasper, and other precious 
stones, is a crucifix, by Antonio di 
San Gallo. To the left of the 
great door is a picture of the last 
Judgment, by Aless. Allori; and 
another, of the Crucifixion, by 
Stradano: the ceiling and lunettes 
of the chapel on this side, at the 
end of the cross, are painted in 
fresco, by Volterrano; and con¬ 
tain a curious old picture, over the 
altar, of S. Zenobio, and other 
figures. In front of the high-altar 
(which is adorned with a splendid 
silver ciborio), are recumbent sta¬ 
tues, the one by Francesco da S. 
Gallo, the other by Giovanbatista 
Foggini: and behind the altar is a 
Chapel decorated after the designs, 
and at the expense, of Giovanni di 
Bologna, who was buried in it; 
and whose tomb is adorned with a 
crucifix and bassi-rilievi, in bronze, 
executed by himself, for the Grand 
Duke by whom they were thus 
handsomely and judiciously appro¬ 
priated. The chapel contains a 
picture of the Resurrection, by 
Ligozzi; a Pieta, by Passignano ; 
a Nativity, by Paggi; and a Cu- 
poletta, by Poccetti! Leading 
from the high altar, toward the 
great door in the opposite side of 
the cross to that already described, 
is a Chapel, painted by Yincenzio 
Meucci: and near this, is the Cha¬ 
pel of Bandinelli, containing a dead 


Christ, in marble, supported by 
Nicodemus; the latter being a por¬ 
trait of Bandinelli, by whom this 
group was executed. The curtain 
of the organ, representing the 
canonization of S. Giuliana, is by 
Roinei. In a Corridor on the left 
side of the church, is the celebrated 
fresco, called La Madonna del 
Sacco / / / deemed the masterpiece 
of Andrea del Sarto ; and at which 
Buonaroti and Titian are said to 
have gazed unceasingly. It is re¬ 
corded, that the author of this 
beautiful work did it for a sack of 
corn, in a time of famine. Here 
are other paintings, by eminent 
artists ; and those in the Corridor, 
which contains the Madonna del 
Sacco, were done by Poccetti, who 
has represented the most remark¬ 
able actions of the Six Founders 
of the Monastery. Another Cor¬ 
ridor contains, Manetto preaching 
before S. Louis, King of France ; 
and Innocent iv. making his ne¬ 
phew Protector of the order of 
Servites, both by Rosselli; and 
the Madonna in a car, by Salim- 
beni. Another Corridor exhibits 
Alexander iv. givingReligion pow¬ 
er to erect monasteries throughout 
the world, by Rosselli; Buonfig- 
liulo resigning the government of 
the Church, by Poccetti; three 
other paintings, by Saliinbeni; 
and, on the ceiling, small portraits 
of illustrious Servites. The Re¬ 
fectory is adorned with a fresco, 
by Santi di Tito ; and, on the top 
of the stairs, leading to the Novi- 
ziato, is a Pietd, by Andrea del 
Sarto, deemed one of his best 
works: this great Painter was 
buried in the open Vestibule be¬ 
fore the church. 

The Chiesa di S. Maria Mad- 
dalena dei Pazzi particularly 
deserves notice, on account of the 
Neri-Chapel, situated on the right 


FLORENCE. 


72 

side of the Court leading to the 
church. The altar-piece of this 
chapel is by Passignano; and its 
cupoletta contains the chef-d'oeu¬ 
vre of Poccetti, representing the 
mansions of the Blessed!! In the 
church is a magnificent Cttpella- 
maggiore, incrusted with rare and 
beautiful marbles, and adorned 
with twelve columns of Sicilian 
jasper, whose capitals and bases 
are of bronze gilt. Here rest the 
remains of S. Maria Maddalena 
dei Pazzi, surrounded with bassi- 
rilievi of bronze gilt (expressing 
the most memorable actions of 
her life), and four marble statues, 
representing her most conspi¬ 
cuous virtues; namely, piety, 
sweetness, penitence, and reli¬ 
gion. Sweetness, with the lamb 
and dove, and Religion with a 
veil, are particularly worth no¬ 
tice ; especially the latter; the 
features through the veil being 
finely expressed. The cupola is 
by Pietro Dandini ; and the other 
paintings, by Ciro Ferri and 
Luca Giordano. On the right of 
the high-altar is a Chapel adorned 
with frescos, by Sorbolini, a liv¬ 
ing artist; and on the left ano¬ 
ther Chapel, likewise painted in 
fresco, by Catani, a living artist. 
This church also contains a fine 
crucifix in wood, by Buontalenti; 
and the curtain of the organ, 
done by G. B. Cipriani, who has 
left no other work in Florence, 
represents S. Maria Maddalena 
receiving the communion from 
the hand of our Saviour! The 
first chapel, on the right, near the 
great door, contains the martyr¬ 
dom of S. Romolo, by Carlo Por- 
telli; said to be the only picture 
he ever painted ; and on the op¬ 
posite side of the church are, the 
Visitation, by Ghirlandajo; Christ 
in the garden, by Santi di Tito— 


[Ch. III. 

and the coronation of the Ma¬ 
donna, by Angelico! The Chap¬ 
ter-room and Refectory of the 
Monastery, to which this church 
belongs, are embellished with the 
works of Perugino, Raffaellino 
del Garbo, and other celebrated 
artists. 

The Chiesa di Santa Croce, 
built about the year 1294, by Ar¬ 
nolfo, and afterward repaired by 
Vasari, is a vast edifice, better 
calculated to promote religious 
contemplation than any other 
church at Florence. Over the 
middle-door of the facade, is a 
statue, in bronze, by Donatello— 
and at the entrance of the church, 
on the right, is the tomb of Buo- 
naroti; who was born, at Chiusi, 
near Arezzo, in 1474, and died at 
Rome, in 1 563; but the Grand- 
Duke of Tuscany, jealous that 
Rome should have the honour of 
providing a grave for this great 
and good man, ordered his body 
to be removed thence, and buried 
in the church of Santa Croce. 
The family of Buonaroti was 
noble : and Michael Angelo’s pa¬ 
rents were averse to his becoming 
an artist; which they deemed 
derogatory to nobility: he, how¬ 
ever, by unceasing importunities, 
at length prevailed upon them to 
let him follow his natural genius. 
Sculpture, Painting, and Archi¬ 
tecture, are represented, in mourn¬ 
ful attitudes, sitting beneath the 
tomb of their Favourite, whose 
bust rests upon a sarcophagus: 
and a small painting, done by 
Buonaroti, is introduced among 
the ornaments at the top of the 
monument. The statue of Sculp¬ 
ture, by Cioli, is ill done ; Archi¬ 
tecture, by Giovanni dell’ Opera, 
is more happily executed; and 
Painting, by G. Batista del Ca- 
valiere, better still: the bust of 


FLORENCE. 


73 


Ch. III.] 

Buonaroti is by the last-named 
artist w . The second tomb, on 
this side, is that of Filippo Buo¬ 
naroti, the antiquary—the third, 
that of Pietro Michelli, called by 
Linnaeus, “ The lynx of botany” 
—the fourth, that of Vittorio Al- 
fieri, by Canova: who has repre¬ 
sented Italy mourning over the 
sarcophagus of the poet; which 
is adorned with masks, lyres, lau¬ 
rel-wreaths, and a head of Alfieri, 
in basso-rilievo. The Floren¬ 
tines are not pleased with the 
shape of this monument; neither 
do they like the manner in which 
the figure of Italy is draped : and 
this last circumstance, united with 
the late public revolutions, gave 
birth to the following jeu d'e- 
sprit: 

“ Canova questa voltal’ha sbagliata 

Fe l’ltalia vestita ed 6 spogliata.” 

The fifth monument, on this 
side, is that of Machiavelli; erect¬ 
ed 236 years after his death, at 
the expense of the Literati. The 
sixth monument is that ot Lanzi; 
near which is an Annunciation, in 
marble, by Donatello. The eighth 
monument is that of Leonardo 
Bruni, Aretino, the Historian; 
which bears a Latin inscription to 
this purport; “ Since Leonardo 
died, History mourns, Eloquence 
is mute ; and it is said that neither 
the Greek nor Latin Muses can 
refrain from tears.” The ninth 
monument is that of Nardini, a 
famous musician; and the tenth 

(w) Buonaroti, when an infant, was put 
out to nurse at the village of Setlignano, 
about three miles distant from Florence; 
and where the inhabitants were chiefly 
stone-cutters and sculptors; his nurse’s 
husband followed the latter occupation; 
so that the child’s passion for this art 
seems to have been sucked in with his 

milk. . , , 

(j) The history of the Invention of the 
Cross is as follows. In 356, Saint Helena, 
the mother of Constantine, being at Jcru- 


that of an equally famous archi¬ 
tect, Pio Fantoni of Fiesole. The 
Castellani-Chapel contains a pic¬ 
ture of the last Supper by Vasari; 
a monument to the memory of 
Cav. Vanni; and another to that 
of M. B. Skotnicki ; representing 
Grief as a recumbent female figure, 
veiled, and lying on a sarcopha¬ 
gus, which exhibits a pallet, 
brushes, and an unstrung lyre. 
This monument is by Ricci, now 
a distinguished artist; but, not 
long since, a peasant on the Mar- 
chese Corsi’s estate, near Flo¬ 
rence. The Baroncelli-Chapel 
contains paintings, on the walls, 
by Taddeo-Gaddi; and, over the 
altar, a picture of the Coronation 
of the Madonna, fyc., by Giotto. 
The Riccardi-Chapel contains 
good paintings, by Passignano, 
Rosselli, and Giovanni di San 
Giovanni. Behind the high-altar 
are paintings, by Agnolo Gaddi, 
representing the Invention of the 
Cross x . The Niccolini-Chapel, 
built after the design of Antonio 
Dosio, and beautifully incrusted 
with rare marbles, contains fine 
pictures by Aless. Allori; statues 
of Moses and Aaron, by Franca- 
villa! and a cupola, painted in 
fresco by Volterrano, the four si¬ 
byls, in the angles of which, are 
chefs-d'ceuvres. This quarter of 
the church likewise contains a ce¬ 
lebrated crucifix, by Donatello; 
together with pictures of the Mar¬ 
tyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Ligozzi; 

salem, ordered the Temple of Venus, which 
profaned that sacred spot, to be destroyed ; 
in doing which, remains of the Holy Se¬ 
pulchre were discovered ; and likewise 
three crosses; it seemed, however, impos¬ 
sible to ascertain which of the three was 
that whereon our Saviour suffered; till a 
learned prelate took them all to the habi¬ 
tation of a dying lady, placing her first on 
one, then on another, and then on the 
third, which she no sooner touched than the 
illness left her. 


74 


FLORENCE. 


the Trinity, by Cigoli! and the 
descent of the Holy Ghost, by 
Vasari! Leading toward the great 
door, and opposite to the monu¬ 
ments already described, are the 
following: First, the tomb of 
Cocchio—second, that of Carlo 
Mazzopini—third, that of Carlo 
Marzuppini, Aretino, finely exe¬ 
cuted by Desiderio da Settignano 
—fourth, that of Lami, by Fog- 
gini—fifth, that of Pompeio-Jo- 
sephi Signorinio, by Ricci; who 
has adorned this sarcophagus 
with a beautiful recumbent figure 
of Philosophy; whose counte¬ 
nance expresses deep sorrow. 
Near this tomb is a picture of the 
Resurrection, by Santi di Tito; 
together with the monument of 
the great and much injured Ga¬ 
lileo ; erected by order of Vi- 
viani, his pupil. The bust of Ga¬ 
lileo is by Foggini. History tells 
us that Galileo was at first in¬ 
terred in the Piazza Santa Croce 
(which is unconsecrated ground ;) 
because he lay under suspicion of 
heresy, on account of his philo¬ 
sophical discoveries: nay, it is 
even asserted that the family of 
Nelli (Viviani’s executors) found 
some difficulty in obtaining leave 
to remove his bones into the 
church, almost a century after his 
decease. Beyond this tomb is that 
of Filicajo. At the bottom of the 
church is a painting of the Resur¬ 
rection, by Aless. Allori! and the 
pulpit merits notice, as it was exe¬ 
cuted by Benedetto da Majano. 
The Sacristy contains curious pic¬ 
tures, in fresco, by Taddeo Gaddi; 
and, in the Monastery of Santa 
Croce, are paintings by Cimabue 
and Giotto. 

The Chiesa di S. Lorenzo , 
built at the expense of a lady, 
named Juliana, who lived during 
the reign of the Emperor Theo¬ 


[Ch. III. 

dosius, consecrated in 392, and 
rebuilt in 1425, by Brunellesco, 
contains a high-altar of beautiful 
Florentine work, done by com¬ 
mand of the Grand-Duke Leo- 
poldo, and designed for the Chapel 
of Medicis: and, above this altar, 
are a crucifix, by Giovanni di Bo¬ 
logna, a Madonna, by Buona- 
roti; and S. John, by one of his 
scholars. The church likewise con¬ 
tains the tomb of Cosimo Pater 
Patriot ; two pulpits adorned 
with bronze bassi-relievi , by Do¬ 
natello ; and a ciborio of marble, 
together with an Infant-Jesus, by 
Desiderio da Settignano. 

The new Sacristy , or Capella 
de' Principi, designed by Buona- 
roti, contains the tomb of Giu- 
liano de’ Medici, Duke of Ne¬ 
mours, and brother to Leo x., 
ornamented with a statue of the 
Duke ; a recumbent figure of 
Day !! and another of Night!! 
all by Buonaroti—the tomb of 
Lorenzo de’ Medici, Duke of Ur- 
bino ; ornamented with a statue 
of that Prince; together with a 
recumbent figure of Twilight, and 
another of Day-break, all by Buo¬ 
naroti ! and here, likewise, by 
the same great master, is a group 
of a Madonna and Child, which, 
if finished, might, according to 
appearance, have proved the finest 
of his works!! 

The old Sacristy , built by Bru¬ 
nellesco, contains a porphyry 
tomb, with bronze ornaments, 
made to enclose the remains of 
Pietro and Giovanni, sons of Co¬ 
simo, Pater Patrio, by Ver¬ 
rocchio. 

The Capella de' Medici, ad¬ 
joining to the church of S. Lo¬ 
renzo, was begfun in 1604, by Fer- 
dinando i., after his own design. 
Three hundred workmen were, 
for a considerable time, employed 


FLORENCE. 


75 


Ch. 111.] 

upon this building : but, latterly, 
the number has been lessened: 
and we have already seen the 
ducal family of Medicis extinct; 
nay, perhaps, may see the Duke¬ 
dom itself annihilated, ere the 
finishing stroke be given to this 
magnificent mausoleum of its 
Princes. The building is octan¬ 
gular ; and the walls are beauti¬ 
fully incrusted with almost every 
kind of precious marble. Six 
sides of the octagon are embel¬ 
lished with sarcophagi of Egyp¬ 
tian and oriental granite ; made 
after the designs of Buonaroti; 
and two of them enriched with 
cushions of red jasper, which bear 
regal crowns of great value 
Here, likewise, are two statues, 
in bronze, one of which is by 
Giovanni di Bologna, and the 
other by Pietro Tacca. The 
sarcophagi are mere ornaments; 
the bodies of the Princes being 
placed perpendicularly under them, 
in a subterranean repository. 

The Cappella de’ Medici may be 
seen daily, from ten in the morn¬ 
ing till four in the afternoon. 

The Libreria Meiliceo-Lauren- 
ziana, one of the most elegant 
apartments of its kind in Europe, 
was built, under the direction of 
Buonaroti; by whom the designs 
for the pavement also were exe¬ 
cuted. The windows are beauti¬ 
fully painted in arabesque by Ra¬ 
phael’s scholars ; and the manu¬ 
scripts, which compose this li¬ 
brary, are well arranged, highly 
valuable, and several of them finely 
illuminated. Here are, a Virgil 
of the third century, written in 
capitals—an old Testament of the 
twelfth century — the celebrated 
Pisan Pandects of the sixth cen¬ 
tury—the Psalms of David of the 


eleventh century—a prayer book 
beautifully illuminated—a missal, 
painted by the school of Pietro 
Perugiuo—a copy of Dante, writ¬ 
ten only twenty-two years after 
his death—a Livy of the fifteenth 
century, beautifully illuminated— 
the geography of Ptolomy (of the 
fifteenth century)—the Decame- 
rone of Boccaccio, written two 
years before his death—a Homer 
of the fifteenth century—a Horace 
with Petrarca’s own hand-writing 
in it—a celebrated Syriac manu¬ 
script—the Life of Lorenzo de’ 
Medici, fyc. fyc. 

This Library is usually open 
to the public, except during the 
vacation and on festivals. A trif¬ 
ling fee is expected, by the Sub- 
Librarian, for attending travel¬ 
lers. 

The Chiesa di Santa Maria 
Novella , commenced in 1279, by 
two Domenican Monks, was so 
much admired by Buonaroti, that 
he used to call it his Sposa. Over 
the middle door, on the inside, is 
a crucifix, by Giotto—and, to the 
right are the following pictures : 
an Annunciation, by Santa di 
Tito—a Nativity, by Naldini!— 
and the Resurrection of Lazarus, 
by Santi di Tito. Here, likewise, 
are the tomb of Villana dei Botti, 
by Settignano ; and a painting of 
the Madonna, by Cimabue, sup¬ 
posed to have been the first work 
he ever didinFlorencey; and near 
the latter is the Martyrdom of 
S. Catherine, by Giuliano Bu- 
giardini; several of the figures in 
which picture were designed by 
Buonaroti. This part of the 
church also contains a Madonna, 
in marble,by BenedettodaMajano. 
In the choir, behind thehigh-altar, 
are paintings represen tingthe lives 


(y) This is in a Chapel to which you enter by steps. 


76 


FLORENCE. 


of the Madonna and S. John Bap¬ 
tist, all by Ghirlandajo; they com¬ 
prise portraits of the painter 
himself, and of several of his 
most illustrious contemporaries; 
among 1 whom are Pietro, Giovanni, 
and Lorenzo de’ Medici. The 
high altar was erected in 1804; 
and the altar-piece is by Saba- 
telli. The adjacent chapel con¬ 
tains a crucifix done by Brunel- 
lesco, for the famous countess 
who lived with Donatello. In the 
next chapel is a picture of Christ 
raising - the dead, by Agnolo Bron¬ 
zino ; and a ceiling by the same 
artist: the tombs and the bassi- 
relievi in this chapel are by Gio¬ 
vanni dell’ Opera. A chapel on 
the top of some steps, and imme¬ 
diately opposite to that wherein 
the Madonna of Cimabueis placed, 
contains paintings by Andrea and 
Bernardo Orcagna; who have re¬ 
presented hell in one part, and 
heaven in another! This church 
likewise contains, on one of its 
pillars, the martyrdom of S. Peter, 
by Cigoli; and a fine painting of 
the good Samaritan, by Ales. Al- 
lori. The paintings over the door 
of the Campanile are by Buffal- 
macco; and the adjoining mo¬ 
nastery contains several valuable 
frescos by old masters ; among 
which there is said to be a portrait 
of Laura 2 . 

The Chiesa d'Orsanmichele is 
esteemed for its architecture ; and 
was built by Giotto and Taddeo 
Gaddi, as the market for grain. 
On the outside are several pieces of 
sculpture, namely; Saints Mat¬ 
thew, Stephen, and John Bap¬ 
tist, by Ghiberti; S. John the 
Evangelist, by Baccio da Monte- 
lupo; Saints Peter, Mark, and 
George, by Donatello (the last is 


[Ch. III. 

deemed particularly fine); S. Phi¬ 
lip the Apostle, S. Eligio, and 
four other Saints in one group, 
byNanni d’Antonio ; S. Thomas, 
by Andrea Verrocchio ; S. Luke, 
in bronze, by Giovanni di Bo¬ 
logna ! and another statue of that 
Apostle, byMino da Fiesole. The 
inside of this church contains 
sculpture, by the revivers of the art. 

The Chiesa di San Spin to, 
built by Brunellesco, is, in point 
of architecture, the finest church 
at Florence. On the right of the 
entrance-door is a copy, by Nanni 
di Baccio, of Buonaroti’s Pietd, 
in S. Peter s at Rome. The pic¬ 
ture of our Saviour driving the 
Profane from the Temple, is by 
Stradano—the stoning of S. Ste¬ 
phen, by Passignano—and the 
group, in marble, of the Arch- 
Angel Raphael and Tobias, by 
Giovanni Baratta. The second 
picture, to the right of this group, 
is by Filippo Lippi—the picture 
of the Madonna, our Saviour, 
and S. Catherine, by the same 
author—and the Virgin appear¬ 
ing to S. Bernardo, is a fine 
copy of a work of Perugino’s. 
The picture, representing several 
Martyrs, is by Aless. Allori— 
that, representing the Woman 
taken in adultery, is by the same 
author—and the beatified Chiara 
da Montefalcone receiving the 
communion from our Saviour, is 
by Vignali. The Altar of the 
holy sacrainentcontains fine sculp¬ 
ture, by Andrea Contucci, da 
Monte San Savino! near this, is 
a picture, by Ghirlandajo, of our 
Saviour bearing his cross? and 
the Transfiguration, by Pietro di 
Cosimo. Returning to the nave, 
in the first Chapel, is a picture 
by Agnolo Bronzino, of Christ 


(*) The Spezieria of Santa Maria Novella is celebrated for perfumes, medicines, <$c. 


77 


FLORENCE. 


Ch. III.] 

appearing-to theMag-dalene; and, 
next to tiiis, is the Madonna, S. 
Sebastiano, §c.; by Petrucci; 
copied from a work of Rosso's. 
Beyond the organ is S. Anne, the 
Madonna, and other Saints, by 
Ghirlandajo ; and, near this, is a 
statue of our Saviour holding his 
cross, by Taddeo Landini, from 
the original of Buonaroti, at 
Rome. The Cappella-maggiore, 
by Michelozzi, is beautiful in 
point of architecture, richly in- 
crusted with precious marbles, 
and adorned with statues of S. 
Peter and S. John. The roof of 
the Vestibule to the Sacristy is 
one single block of stone. The 
Sacristy contains an altar-piece, 
by Filippo Lippi, of the Ma¬ 
donna, our Saviour, Angels, and 
Saints! and a painting over the 
door, by Poccetti, of S. Agostino, 
and an Angel, in the form of a 
child ! The architecture of the Sa¬ 
cristy is particularly fine ; and that 
of the Campanile much admired. 

The Chiesa del Carmine, be¬ 
gun in 1268 , was nearly de¬ 
stroyed by fire ; and, in conse¬ 
quence of that accident, repaired, 
not many years since. The ceil¬ 
ing and cupola were painted by 
Stagi and Romei: subjects—the 
most renowned characters of the 
old and new Testament—the 
Prophet Elias conveyed to Heaven 
in a chariot of fire—the Madonna 
putting the veil upon S. Maria 
Maddalena de’ Pazzi—the bea¬ 
tified Angelo Mazzinghi in glory 
—and the ascension of our Sa¬ 
viour into Heaven. On the right 
side of the entrance-door is a pic¬ 
ture of our Saviour on the cross, 
with the Madonna and Magda¬ 
lene standing near, by Vassari— 
a Pieta by Antonio Guidotti; and 
a picture of S. Jacopo, by Lo¬ 
renzo Lippi! The Cappella della 


S. S. Vergine del Carmine was 
painted by Masolino da Panicalc, 
and Masaccio his disciple, the first 
person who attained perfection in 
the revived art; but, as he died 
young, his work was finished by 
Filippo Lippi, the son of Fra Fi¬ 
lippo. Leonardo da Vinci, Fra 
Bartolommeo, Andrea del Sarto, 
Buonaroti, and Raphael, are sup¬ 
posed to have derived the greater 
part of their knowledge from the 
study of these excellent paint¬ 
ings ; which represent the life of 
S. Peter. In the choir is a tomb, 
by Benedetto di Rovezzano. The 
curtain of the organ, (which is 
one of the best instruments at 
Florence,) represents the Ma¬ 
donna giving the sacred habit to 
Simon Stock; and was painted 
byR omei. But the most striking 
thing here, is the Corsini-Chapel, 
magnificently incrusted with rare 
marbles, and containing the sar¬ 
cophagus of S. Andrea Corsini, 
adorned with silver bassi-rilievi! 
Over the altar is an alto-rilievi, 
representing S. Andrea Corsini, 
(who, from a Monk, became 
Bishop of Ficsole,) ascending 
into Heaven; this is by G. B. 
Foggini; and, above it, is God 
the Father in glory, by Mar- 
cellini. On the sides of the 
chapel are two marble alti-ri- 
lievi , by Foggini; the one repre¬ 
senting the Saint reading his first 
mass, and the Madonna appear¬ 
ing, and saying, “ Thou art my 
servant; I have chosen thee ; and 
in thee will I be glorifiedthe 
other representing his descent 
from Heaven to assist the Floren¬ 
tines in the battle of Anghiari! 
The Cupoletta was painted by 
Luca Giordano. To the right of 
this chapel is the Deposition from 
the Cross, by G. D. Ferretti, un¬ 
der a Cupoletta painted by Ro- 


78 


FLORENCE. 


mei: and, on that side of the 
nave not already described, is a 
picture of S. Maria Maddalena 
dei Pazzi receiving 1 the veil from 
the Madonna, by Fabbrini—a Na¬ 
tivity, by Gambacciani—an An¬ 
nunciation, by Poccetti—and the 
Adoration of the Magi, copied, 
by Viligiardi, from the celebrated 
picture of Gregorio Pagani. The 
monastery, to which this church 
belongs, contains frescos by Va¬ 
sari, Poccetti, Sfc. 

The Chiesa di S. Trinitil con¬ 
tains a Nativity, by Ghirlandajo— 
a Pietci, by Angelico!—a Chapel 
belonging to the Sassetti-family, 
representing, in fresco, the life of 
S. Francesco, of Assisi, by Ghir¬ 
landajo !—two pictures in the Ca- 
pella degli Usimbardi; one re¬ 
presenting S. Peter sinking, by 
Cristofano Allori!—the other S. 
Peter receiving the keys of 
Heaven, by Einpoli!—with fres¬ 
cos, above, by Giovanni di San 
Giovanni—a modern painting of 
S. Giovanni Gualberto, in the act 
of pardoning an Enemy, by Fran¬ 
cesco Corsi—the Sermon on the 
Mount, by Rosselli—and an An¬ 
nunciation, by Empoli, placed un¬ 
der a cupoletta, finely painted by 
Poccetti. The Statue of S. Maria 
Maddalena, between the entrance- 
doors, was begun by Settignano, 
and finished by Benedetto da Ma- 
jano! The refectory was painted b v 
Giovanni di San Giovanni, and 
Ferrucci. 

The Chiesa di N. Ambrogio 
contains a Chapel adorned with 
sculpture, by Mino da Fiesole ; 
and paintings representing the 
miracle of the Cross, by Cosimo 
Rosselli. The picture in the Cap- 
pella del Rosario is by Passig- 
nano; and the small fresco, re¬ 
presenting the Madonna, our Sa¬ 
viour, and S. A nne, is by Masaccio! 


[Ch. Ilf. 

The Church of S. Gaetano 
contains the best organ at Flo¬ 
rence, and some good pictures: 
the Church of Ognissanti, like¬ 
wise contains good pictures ; and 
the Conservatorio di Ripoli, in 
Via della Scala, merits the atten¬ 
tion of travellers who have time 
to spare. 

The reale Accademia delle belle 
Arti, founded by the Grand-Duke 
Leopohlo, is open to public inspec¬ 
tion at the same hours with the 
Gallery, and merits notice, not 
only on account of the libera¬ 
lity of the institution, which gives 
all possible encouragement to ris¬ 
ing genius, but likewise as it con¬ 
tains excellent casts of the Baptis¬ 
tery-doors, and most of the fine 
statues hitherto discovered in Italy. 
Here is a noble apartment, fitted 
up with drawings, fyc ., for the use 
of young painters ; other noble 
apartments, containing every ne¬ 
cessary accommodation for those 
who are further advanced ; a gal¬ 
lery, containing paintings and 
sketches, by celebrated masters, 
among which is a valuable picture 
by Angelico, another by Giovanni 
di San Giovanni, of the repose in 
Egypt ; and a beautiful head of 
our Saviour, by Carlo Dolci. This 
academy likewise contains Schools 
for Architecture, practical Me¬ 
chanics, Sfc. ; and here also the 
Florentine work in pietri duri, 
called Opera di commesso, is made. 

Not far hence are cloisters which 
formerly belonged to the suppress¬ 
ed company of S. Giovanni Ba¬ 
tista, but are now in custody of the 
Academy, where the key is always . 
kept; these cloisters, commonly 
called l'Oratorio delloScalzo, con¬ 
tain fresco-paintings of the life of 
S. John Baptist, all by Andrea 
del Sarto, except two, which were 
done by Francabigio. At the en- 


FLORENCE. 


79 


Ch. III.] 

trance of the court are figures re¬ 
presenting Faith and Hope ; and, 
on the sides of the opposite door, 
Charity and Justice, all by An¬ 
drea. The history of S. John 
commences with Zacharias becom¬ 
ing dumb, on account of his incre¬ 
dulity. Second painting, Mary 
visiting Elisabeth—third, Elisa¬ 
beth brought to bed—fourth, Za¬ 
charias blessing S. John, who de¬ 
parts for the desert, (this is by 
Francabigio)—fifth, S.John meet¬ 
ing our Saviour, as the latter re¬ 
turns from Egypt, (likewise by 
Francabigio)—sixth, the baptism 
of our Saviour, by S. John—se¬ 
venth, S. John preaching in the 
desert—eighth, the converted Jews 
receiving baptism—ninth, S. John 
carried before Herod—tenth, He¬ 
rod’s supper and dance—eleventh, 
the decapitation of S. John— 
twelfth, Herodias's daughter with 
the head of S. John. It is record¬ 
ed that Andrea del Sarto received 
for each of these frescos only twen¬ 
ty livres a , though many of them 
are exquisitely fine ; they will, 
however, shortly be obliterated by 
the humidity of their situation, 
unless restored in the manner now 
practised at Rome b . 

The Palazzo-Gerini is adorned 
with valuable pictures, though the 
finest part of this collection has 
been recently sold. Among those 
which remain are, First room —• 
Charity, by Cignani; and Hagar 
in the desert, by Rosselli. Second 
room —head of a young Female, 
by Correggio! Third room — 
four heads, by Nogari; and two 
pictures, by Bassano. Fourth 
room —a landscape, by Both ; dit¬ 
to, by Swanevelt ; and ditto, by 
Paul Brill. Fifth room —Prome- 

( а ) Fifteen shillings. 

(б) The person who unlocks the door of 
the Oratorio dello Scalzo expects two pauls 
for his trouble ; and the person who attends 


theus, by Salvator Rosa !—head 
of our Saviour, by Stradano; head 
of a Female, by Carlo Dolci! Se¬ 
venth room —Two landscapes, by 
Both. S. Sebastiano, by Guerci- 
no ! and the Assumption, by Carlo 
Maratti. Eighth room —our Sa¬ 
viour in the sepulchre, byTiarini! 
a dead Nun, by Vanni; a little 
picture, by Rubens ! the Madon¬ 
na, our Saviour, and S. John, by 
one of the Caracci Family ; two 
little pictures, by Peter Netf; and 
two small landscapes, by Vernet. 
The Madonna, our Saviour, and 
other figures, by Fra Bartolom¬ 
meo. A portrait of Salvator Rosa, 
by himself; a peasant playing on 
a wind-instrument, by Murillo. A 
Holy Family, by Raphael; a por¬ 
trait of a Woman with a veil, by 
Santi di Tito ; and an old Man 
with a Child in his arms, by 
Guido !! 

The Palazzo-Riccardi, which 
once belonged to the Medici fa¬ 
mily, is a fine building. The Gal¬ 
lery contains a ceiling beautifully 
painted by Luca Giordano ; the 
ceiling of the Library is by the 
same master ; and the collection 
of manuscripts and printed books 
is valuable. 

The Palazzo-Corsini is adorn¬ 
ed with some good paintings. 

The Palazzo-Mozzi, near the 
Ponte a la Grade , contains fine 
paintings, by Salvator Rosa. 

The Palazzo-Buonaroti, in 
Via Ghibellina, is interesting, 
from having been the residence of 
so great a man, and likewise from 
containing some remains of his 
works. 

The Palazzo-Strozzi is a fine 
piece of Tuscan architecture. 

The Palazzo- Uguccioni, built 

travellers round the Royal Academy like¬ 
wise expects from two to three pauls, ac¬ 
cording to the size of the party. 


80 


FLORENCE. 


after the design of Buonaroti, con¬ 
tains a painting, by Perino del 
Vaga, of the passage of the Isra¬ 
elites through the Red sea! 

The Casa dei Poveri, in Via 
dei Malcontenti, which owes its 
establishment to the Emperor Na¬ 
poleon, is an immense edifice, ca¬ 
pable of lodging three thousand 
persons, who, in great measure, 
maintain themselves, by making 
caps, or rather Phrygian bonnets, 
for the Mediterranean mariners, 
ribbons, cloth, carpets, fyc. fyc. 
There are work-shops of almost 
every description in the house; 
and the present Grand Duke of 
Tuscany, much to his honour, sup¬ 
ports and benefits this benevolent 
and useful institution, which has 
completely cleared Florence of the 
innumerable troops of mendicants 
by whom it was formerly infested. 

The Spedale di Bonifazio, or 
great Hospital, near the Porta 
San-Gallo, receives lunatics, and 
persons afflicted with chronic dis¬ 
orders, and is spacious, clean, and 
airy. The sick appear to be com¬ 
fortably lodged and well attended, 
but the funds belonging to this 
charity are not sufficiently ample 
to supply convalescent patients 
with a proper quantity of nourish¬ 
ment. Detached from the rest of 
the building are excellent apart¬ 
ments for lunatics: somewhat less 
care, however, seems to be taken 
of these unhappy creatures than of 
others. 

The Spedale di Santa Maria 
Nuova contains upward of a thou¬ 
sand beds, and the patients are 
extremely well attended. 

The Spedale degl' Innocenti 
usually contains 3000 Children, 
who have not, however, a sufficient 
number of nurses ; and the custom 
of binding up every new-born in¬ 
fant in swaddling clothes frequent¬ 


[Ch. III. 

ly distorts the limbs, nay some¬ 
times produces mortification and 
death. 

The Column of Saravezza- 
marble, in Via Romana , was 
erected by Cosimo i„ in memory 
of the battle of Marciano— the 
Granite Column, near Ponte 
Santa Trinita, was taken from 
Antoninus’s Bath, at Rome, and 
erected at Florence by Cosimo i„ 
in memory of the conquest of Siena. 
There is, on its summit, a figure 
of Justice, which gave rise to the 
following proverb : “ Justice, at 
Florence, is too high to be reach¬ 
ed”— the Column near the Bap¬ 
tistery, in the Piazzo del Dunmo , 
was erected to record a miracle, 
relative to the corpse of S. Ze- 
nobio. 

The bronze Wild Boar, in the 
Mercato-nuovo, is a copy, by Pie¬ 
tro Tacca, of the famous antique 
in the Gallery de’ Medici. The 
Pedestal adorned with bassi- 
rilievi in marble, which stands 
near the entrance of the church 
of S. Lorenzo, was done by Ban- 
dinelli, and represents Giovanni 
dei Medici, father of Cosimo 1 ., 
with prisoners and spoils. The 
Group of Hercules killing the 
Centaur Nessus , which stands 
near the Ponte-Vecchio, is by Gi¬ 
ovanni di Bologna !!— the Piaz¬ 
za del Annunziata contains an 
equestrian statue of Ferdinando i. 
Over the Porta San-Gallo is a 
fresco-painting, by Ghirlandajo; 
and, just beyond the gate, a mag¬ 
nificent triumphal Arch, erected 
in honour of the Emperor Francis 
!•> when Grand Duke of Tuscany. 
On the outside of a house, near 
the Porta Romana, is a fresco, by 
Giovanni di San Giovanni, repre¬ 
senting the city of Florence, under 
the form of a woman clothed in 
royal robes, and the other cities of 


81 


FLORENCE. 


Ch. III.] 

Tuscany as females paying- ho¬ 
mage to their queen. 

The Ponte Santa Trinita, built 
by Ammannati, is remarkably ele- 
g-ant. 

Florence contains three theatres, 
the Pergola, or opera-house, a 
beautiful edifice, well secured from 
fire, and originally built after the 
design of Pietro Tacca—the Co- 
comero , smaller than the Pergola 
—and the Teatro Nuovo. 

The Florentine Mosaic work, 
and the Sculpture in alabaster, of 
the Brothers Pisani, in the Prato, 
and of Bartolini, in Via della Sea- 
la, are much admired. This coun¬ 
try is likewise celebrated for a sort 
of marble which splits almost like 
slate, and, when polished, the va¬ 
riations of its yellow and brown 
veins represent trees, landscapes, 
and ruins of old walls and castles ; 
several petrifactions are also found 
in this neighbourhood. 

A long residence at Florence is 
deemed injurious to the sight, ow¬ 
ing, perhaps, to that glare which 
proceeds from the reflection of the 
sun upon white houses, and like¬ 
wise to the fogs which prevail here 
in winter. 

This city boasts the honour of 
having given education to Dante, 
Petrarca, Boccaccio, Corilla, the 
celebrated Improvvisatrice , who 
was crowned at Rome, Americo 
Vespucci, (whose voyages to, and 
discoveries in, the new world ob¬ 
tained him the honour of calling 
America by his own name,) Ma- 

(c) II Pellicano, also called VHotel des 
Armes d’Angleterre, and kept by Gaspe- 
rini, is an excellent inn, where dinners are 
better cooked and more comfortably served 
than at any of the other hotels. Gasperini 
repairs English travelling carriages parti¬ 
cularly well. Shneiderft’s is a very large 
and good hotel: the Quattri Nasioni, and 
the Nuova York, are likewise good inns ; 
and at 4380, Piazza S. Maria Novella, tra¬ 
vellers may be comfortably accommodated 


chiavelli, Galileo, Buonaroti, and 
a larger number of distinguished 
artists than any other place in 
Europe. 

The Accademia della Cruse a, 
which has, for a length of years, 
been established at Florence, is 
too well known to need descrip¬ 
tion ; and this academy is now 
united with two others, namely, 
the Fiorentina, and the Apatisti , 
under the name of Reale Accade¬ 
mia Fiorentina. 

There are several good hotels 
at Florence 0 , and the markets are 
constantly well stored with excel¬ 
lent eatables, fish excepted, which 
is never fresh but on Fridays and 
Saturdays. The Florence wine 
is good and wholesome, the water 
much otherwise, except that which 
comes from Fiesole, and supplies 
the fountains of the Piazza-Santa 
Croce, and the Palazzo-Pitti. It 
is remarkable, however, that all 
the Florence water, when analys¬ 
ed, appears wholesome ; and con¬ 
sequently it seems probable that 
the noxious quality may proceed 
from copper vases in which it is 
drawn, and usually suffered to 
stand, though large glass bottles, 
secured by a case of reeds, for the 
purpose of holding water, might 
be easily met with. 

The climate of Florence is cold 
during winter, very hot during 
summer, but delightful in autumn 
and spring d . Doctor Downes, an 
English physician, resides in this 
city. 

with board and lodging, for a moderate 
price, by Madame Merveilleux du Plan - 
tis, an English lady of high respectability, 
married to a captain in the royal navy of 
France. 

(d) Persons who wish to preserve health 
in Tuscany, should be careful never to eat 
sweet things made with orange-Jloiver foo¬ 
ter, falsely so called; it being, in this coun¬ 
try, a distillation from the Italian laurel* 
leaf, (the bay), which is poisonous. 

G 


H2 


FLORENCE. 


1 will now close this chapter with 
a list of the preceding- churches, 
palaces, fyc., as they lie near each 
other. 

Duomo — Campanile — Battis- 
terio di S. Giovanni—Palazzo 
Riccardi—Chiesa di S. Marco — 
Reale Accademia — L'Oratorio 
dello Scalzo—Spedale di Boni- 
fazio—Porta S. Gallo—Arco tri- 
onfale—Statua di Ferdinando /., 
alia Piazza del Annunziata — 
Chiesa di S. Maria Maddalena 
de' Pazzi—Casa dei Poveri — 
Chiesa di Santa Croce—*Chiesa 
di S. Amhrogio—Palazzo Buo- 
naroti—Chiesa di Santa Maria 
Nuova—sua Spedale—Chiesa di 


[Oh. Ilf- 

S. Lorenzo—Libreria Mediceo- 
Laurenziana—Capella Reale —- 
Basso di S. Lorenzo—Chiesa di 
Santa Maria Novella—Palazzo- 
Corsini — Palazzo-Strozzi — Co¬ 
lo nna digranito alia Piazza della 
Trinit a—Chiesa della Trinit a — 
Ponte della Trinita — Palazzo- 
Gerin i — Galleria Ducale —- Pa- 
lazzo- Pec eh io — Loggia — Fon- 
tana—Statua di Cosimo I. — Pa¬ 
lazzo- Uguccioni — Chiesa d'Or 
San-Michele — L'Ercole and Nes- 
sus di Giovanni di Bologna — 
Palazzo-Mozz i — Palazzo-Pi tt i 
—Giardino di Boholi—Chiesa di 
S. Spirito—Chiesa del Carmine 
—Porta Romana. 


CHAPTER IV. 

FLORENCE. 

Festa di San Giovanni—Corso dei Barberi—Game, called Pallone—Environs of Florence 
—Royal Cascini—Careggi de’ Medici—Anecdote respecting the Physician of Lorenzo 
il Magnifico—Poggi >Imperiale—Pratolino—Fiesole—Vallonibrosa—Abbey of Camal- 
doli—Convent of Lavernia—Character of the Florentines—Tuscan Peasantry—their 


behaviour at a Ball—Anecdote relative to 
pulation of Tuscany. 

I cannot close my account of 
this city, without mentioning the 
ceremonies of the Festa di San 
Giovanni , the patron saint of Flo¬ 
rence, on the vigil of which is the 
Corsa dei Conchi , or chariot-race, 
probably an epitome of the ancient 
Etruscan games. This exhibition 
takes place in the Piazza of S a . 
Maria Novella. At the upper and 
lower end of the piazza are obe¬ 
lisks, to each of which is fastened 
a cord, whose centre is held up by 
six poles, supported by men cloth¬ 
ed in ancient costume. Round 
the piazza, in an amphitheatrical 


Poor Foundling—Laws of Leopoldo—Po- 

form, are scaffoldings, ornamented 
with rough fresco paintings of 
urns, fyc., which produce, how¬ 
ever, a good effect; at the upper 
end is the sovereign's box, hand¬ 
somely decorated : under the scaf¬ 
foldings are posted horse and foot- 
guards, and round the piazza, 
above the scaffoldings, are balco¬ 
nies, windows, and even house¬ 
tops, crowded with spectators.— 
Were the chariots made in the an¬ 
cient form, this exhibition would 
be far more interesting ; but the 
carriages are modern in point of 
shape, and particularly clumsy. 



Ch. IV.] FLORENCE. 


exhibiting- nothing* like antique 
costume, except the habit of the 
charioteers. 

On the morning- of the Festa di 
S. Giovanni homage used to be 
paid by all the Tuscan cities to 
their prince, but this custom is, for 
the present, abandoned, owing to 
the pageants which represented 
the several cities having been near¬ 
ly destroyed by the French. 

' In the afternoon of this day is 
the Corso dei Barberi , a race per¬ 
formed by horses without riders, 
and which, from the multitude of 
spectators, the splendour of the 
equipages, and the gallant appear¬ 
ance of the troops who attend their 
sovereign, is an extremely gay 
sight. The horses have, fasteued 
to their bodies, little spurs, so con¬ 
trived that the quicker the ani¬ 
mal gallops, the more they run 
into him. The race-ground is the 
longest street at Florence, where 
many of the spectators stand, with¬ 
out any defence whatsoever, fre¬ 
quently meeting with accidents by 
urging the horses on. When these 
animals reach the goal, they are 
stopped by a large piece of canvass, 
which several men hold up ; the 
sovereign then announces the win¬ 
ning horse, and thus ends this 
amusement, which is followed by 
a pretty exhibition of fireworks at 
the Palazzo-Vecchio e . 

The game called Pallone, a fa¬ 
vourite exercise at Florence, also 
merits notice, because it was played 
by the ancient Romans ; who are 
described as striking the foil is 
with the arm guarded, for that 
purpose, by a wooden shield: the 
mode of playing continues pre- 

(e) So universal is the rage for splendour 
at this festival, that a milliner, at whose 
house one of my friends lodged, absolutely 
hired for the day, at a great expense, a coach 
with two footmen in laced liveries, that 


cisely the same to the present mo¬ 
ment ; and this game, like most 
of the ancient exercises, is well 
calculated to give courage and 
strength. 

The environs of Florence are 
extremely interesting. The usual 
airing of the upper ranks of persons 
is to the Royal Farms, or Cas- 
cini ; which are open to the public 
at all hours ; though it is deemed 
unwholesome to walk, ride, or 
drive, in these beautiful farms very 
early in the morning ; and equally 
prejudicial to remain there after 
sun-set. 

Careggi de Medici , about three 
miles from the Porta San Gallo, 
was the favourite retreat of Lo¬ 
renzo il Magnifico ; and in the 
hall of this villa the Platonic So¬ 
ciety used to assemble, and form 
plans for those stately edifices and 
patriotic institutions by which Lo¬ 
renzo benefited and embellished 
his country. The house stands 
upon an eminence, whence the 
ground falls gradually almost 
every way ; opening, on one side, 
to a noble view of Florence ; on 
another, to a boundless prospect 
of Val d’Arno ; while, on another, 
rise mountains, covered with neat 
farm-houses and magnificent vil¬ 
las ; and, on another, vaults Fie- 
sole, dignified with ruins of ancient 
Greek and Roman splendour; 
and, to complete the deliciousness 
of the situation, cool and refresh¬ 
ing breezes almost constantly 
blow, about noon, from the Gulf 
of Spezia, and make the fortunate 
inhabitants of Careggi unconsci¬ 
ous of oppressive heat, even in the 
dog-days:—no wonder, therefore, 

she might parade about the streets in style ; 
nay, further, this woman and her appren¬ 
tices, though generally dressed in the plain¬ 
est manner possible, were now adorned 
with diamonds. 

G 2 


84 


ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. 


that the elegant and wise Lorenzo 
should have called this, his favou¬ 
rite abode! Careggi, like the ge¬ 
nerality of Tuscan villas, is built 
upon arches ; and consists of an 
immense ground-floor with a spa¬ 
cious hall in its centre, and several 
surrounding rooms ; every ceiling 
being arched, and every apartment 
cool. Above stairs is another large 
hall, with a handsome suite of 
rooms, terminated by a terrace : 
and round the third story runs a 
gallery which commands a pros¬ 
pect so extensive that it seems to 
overlook all Tuscany. On the 
outside of the house are noble por¬ 
ticos. The water at this villa is 
peculiarly fine; owing, in some 
measure, to the following circum¬ 
stance. When the great Lorenzo 
laboured under his last illness, a 
famous physician of Padua was 
summoned to attend him ; he did 
so, and exerted his utmost skill; 
but to no purpose—Lorenzo died! 
—when some of his household, 
frantic with grief, met the unsuc¬ 
cessful physician, and threw him 
down the well in the quadrangle. 
The dead body was, of course, 
drawn up ; and the well so nicely 
cleaned that its water has, ever 
since, been super-excellent. It is 
remarkable that the above-named 
physician, when resident at Padua, 
had his nativity cast, and was 
told he would be drowned: he, 
therefore, quitted Padua, whence 
he was frequently compelled to go 
by water to Venice, and came to 
settle at Florence, as a place 
where water-carriage was unne¬ 
cessary ; thus furnishing an ex¬ 
ample 

-That human foresight 

In vain essays to’scape th’ unerring stroke 
Of Heaven-directed Destiny I 

Poggi Imperiale, about one mile 
from the Porta R oman a, is a royal 


[Ch. IV. 

Villa containing an admired statue 
of Adonis, by Buonaroti; and por¬ 
traits of Petrarea, and Laura, by 
Albert Durer. The prospects 
from this spot are beautiful; anti 
not far hence stands the Monas¬ 
tery of S. Matteo in Arcetri, near 
which are vineyards that produce 
the celebrated wine called Verdea . 

Pratolino , a royal Villa about 
six miles from the Porta S. Gallo, 
is famous for its garden ; which 
contains water works, and a sta¬ 
tue of the Apennine sixty feet in 
height, by Giovanni di Bologna. 

On the way to Pratolino is the 
modern Campo- Santo of Florence. 

Fiesole, anciently Fas n ice, one 
of the twelve great cities of Etru¬ 
ria, is proudly seated, on a sum¬ 
mit of the Apennine, in a most 
enchanting situation, about three 
miles and a half from the Porta 
Pinti, by the Majano-road. Light 
carriages may go with perfect ease 
and safety, so far as Majano, 
which is two-thirds of the way : 
but thence, to the Francescan 
Convent, at Fiesole, the best con¬ 
veyance is a traineau ; which the 
Peasants at Majano can always 
furnish. Between the latter place 
and Fiesole is the Docia ; a mo¬ 
nastery built by Buonaroti, and 
deliciously situated. The ancient 
Etruscan town of Fiesole is sup¬ 
posed to have been destroyed by 
an earthquake, long before the 
period when Sylla founded a co¬ 
lony there : the Walls of this town, 
however, are in several places 
discoverable: and it seems evi¬ 
dent, from the manner in which 
they present themselves, that they 
were thrown down by some con¬ 
vulsion of nature : they appear to 
have originally consisted of large 
stones without cement, like the 
walls of Pompeii and Psestum. 
Here, likewise, are remains of an 



85 


Oh. IV.] ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. 


Amphitheatre, built on the side of a 
hill, as was the Grecian custom; 
the shape and size of the edifice, 
some of the staircases, seats, and 
caves for the wild beasts, together 
with the reservoir of water which 
belonged to this theatre, may be 
traced f : and here, also, is an an¬ 
cient, Temple,nowroofed,and made 
into a church. Fourteen fine co¬ 
lumns with Ionic capitals, the pave¬ 
ment, and the altar of the ancient 
building still remain ; though the 
altar has been moved from its ori¬ 
ginal situation. This temple is 
supposed to have been dedicated 
to Bacchus. The walls of the 
Roman town may, in some places, 
be traced; as may the pavement 
<lf the streets, which resembles 
that of Pompeii. The modern 
town, if it may be so called, con¬ 
tains a Cathedral, built in 1028, 
apparently on the site of an anci¬ 
ent temple; and adorned with 
Sculpture by Mino da Fiesole, 
and Andrea Ferrucci, Fiesolano ; 
and likewise with a picture of the 
martyrdom of S. Thomas, by Vol- 
terrano ; here, also, are, an epis¬ 
copal palace, a Seminary, and a 
Francescan Convent, which last 
stands on the spot called Rocca 
dei Fiesolani. 

Vallombrosa , about fourteen 
miles distant from Fiesole, is well 
worth notice ; not only because it 
has been immortalized by Milton, 
but likewise on account of the 
beauty of the country, and the 
noble Certosa of Vallombrosa, 
which still contains fine paintings ; 
though the finest were, I believe, 
removed when the Convent was 
suppressed. Vallombrosa itself 

( f ) The Etrurians are famed for having 
invented Amphitheatres ; together with the 
games called Curuli, and Certami dci 
Cavalli ; and about the year of Rome 
400, comedians were invited, by the Ro- 


has suffered very little from being 
under the dominion of France: 
but the Certosa is not yet re-esta¬ 
blished. Mules are the necessary 
conveyance for persons who can¬ 
not walk ; there being no carriage 
road to the Convent. 

Lovers of wild scenery would 
be gratified by proceeding from 
Vallombrosa to the Abbey of Ca- 
maldoli, about thirty-six miles 
from Florence ; and thence to the 
Convent of Lavernia (mons Al- 
vernus,) about fourteen miles fur¬ 
ther. The former of these Con¬ 
vents was suppressed by the 
French ; who cut down much of 
the fine wood belonging to it: 
now, however, this Convent is re¬ 
established ; though its inhabi¬ 
tants, about thirty in number, are 
too poor to entertain visitors gra¬ 
tis ; and therefore Travellers, after 
eating or sleeping under its roof, 
usually make a present to the 
community. The convent of La¬ 
vernia never was disturbed by the 
French; and contains, at present, 
about sixty Capuchins. 

The modern Florentines, like 
their Etrurian ancestors, are fond 
of learning, arts, and sciences; 
and, what is more estimable and 
endearing to Foreigners, they 
are, generally speaking, good-hu¬ 
moured, warm-hearted and friend¬ 
ly ; such, at least, have I found 
them, for many successive years. 
The Tuscan peasantry, considered 
collectively, are pure in their mo¬ 
rals and pastoral in their manner 
of living; and the peculiar come¬ 
liness ot both sexes is very striking, 
especially in that tract of country 
which extends from Florence to 

mans, to come from Etruria, and perform 
plays, for the first time, at Rome; the Ro¬ 
mans thinking these new games might ap¬ 
pease the gods, and stop a then raging sick¬ 
ness. 


86* 


TUSCAN PEASANTRY. 


Pescia: but it is only among- the 
peasantry that one can form a 
just idea of Italian beauty; and 
perhaps I mig-ht add, it is only 
among- the peasantry one can form 
a just idea of the Italian character ; 
inhabitants of populous cities being 
nearly alike whether in London, 
Paris, Vienna, Florence, or Rome. 
The men are tall, robust, finely 
proportioned, and endowed with 
that entire self-possession which 
inspires respect, and perhaps a 
more favourable opinion of them 
than they really deserve. The 
women are of a middle stature ; 
and were it not for bad stays, 
would be well made. They have 
large, languishing- black eyes, ac- 
coinpaniedby that expressive brow 
which constitutes the most remark¬ 
able and captivating part of an Ita¬ 
lian countenance. Their manners 
are uncommonly graceful; and, 
instead of curtsying, they gently 
bow’ their bodies, and kiss the 
hand of a superior; a practice 
common, indeed, throughout Italy. 
When two young persons agree to 
marry, the banns are published 
three times in a parish church ; 
after which they receive the nup¬ 
tial benediction. The bride’s por¬ 
tion is paid three days before 
marriage, one half in wearing-ap¬ 
parel, and the other half in mo¬ 
ney ; which the bridegroom usually 
expends in purchasing jewels for 
his lady ; which consist of a pearl 
necklace, cross and ear-rings, fre¬ 
quently intermixed with rubies; 
and worth from twenty to thirty 

(g) Some of the Grecian ladies used to 
hold palm-branches in their hands, in order 
to procure an easy delivery. 

(/i) Children in Roman-Catholic coun¬ 
tries, however, are christened immediately 
after their birth. 

(i) An elder son among the Greeks was 
obliged either to maintain his mother, 
or return her dower : lienee Telemachus, 


[Ch. IV. 

pounds sterling: these jewels be¬ 
ing considered by the man as the 
woman’s exclusive property ; in¬ 
deed, money so invested may be 
looked upon as placed in a bank ; 
while the interest received is that 
high gratification which the woman 
derives from exhibiting her orna¬ 
ments on gala-days; and these 
ornaments continue in the family 
for ages, unless the pressing call 
of necessity compel them to be 
pawned, or sold. When the Sjyosa 
is taken in labour, the husband, 
after procuring medical help, 
deems it his next duty to get some 
of what is called the life-giving 
plant (aleatrice the peasants call 
it,) which he places on her bed; 
and without which, lie believes his 
child cannot be born. This cus¬ 
tom is derived from the Greeks g. 
About a fortnight after the birth 
ot the infant, its parents give what 
they denominate a seaponata, or 
christening dinner h , to their rela¬ 
tions ; on which occasion every 
guest brings a present, as w r as the 
practice at Athens ; and the din¬ 
ner is served dish by dish, likewise 
an ancient custom. On the hus¬ 
band’s demise the eldest son be¬ 
comes heir-at-law ; but is obliged 
to portion his sisters ; and either 
maintain his mother, or return her 
dower 1 : all his relations frequently 
live with him: but the largeness 
of the family creates no confusion ; 
there being a superior over the 
men, and another over the women, 
who allot, to every person, their 
business ; which is thus kept dis- 

thongh he sustained great losses by means 
of Penelope’s suitors, thinks it imprudent 
to send her home to her father; because 
that could not be done without returning 
her dower — 

“ I could not now repay so great a sum 

To the old Man, should 1 dismiss her home 

Against her will.” 


Homer’s Odyssey. 


CIi. IV.] 

tinct. A Tuscan farmer shares 
equally with his lord in the pro¬ 
duce of an estate ; and the owner 
even provides seeds, plants, ma¬ 
nure, implements of husbandry, 
in short, whatever may be requisite 
for the cultivation of the land. 
The upper class of farmers usu¬ 
ally possess a horse and a market- 
cart, a waggon, and a pair of 
large dove-coloured oxen, who 
draw the waggon and the plough, 
whose colour seldom, if ever, va¬ 
ries throughout Italy, and whose 
beauty is as remarkable as that of 
their masters. The female pea¬ 
sants, beside working in the vine¬ 
yards almost equally hard with 
the men, often earn money by 
keeping poultry, and sometimes 
one or two lambs ; whose fleecy 
coats the children decorate, on 
the Festa di San Giovanni, with 
scarlet ribbons tied in fantastic 
knots: and by the aid of money 
thus acquired, wearing-apparel, 
and other necessaries, are pur¬ 
chased. Shoes and stockings are 
deemed superfluous, and merely 
ornamental, even by the women ; 
who carry them in baskets on 
their heads, till they reach a 
town; when these seemingly em¬ 
barrassing decorations are put 
on: for the Contadina is as vain 
of her appearance as the Dama 
nobile; and, no wonder—since 
the Arcadian dresses and lovely 
countenances of these peasants 
arrest every eye, and show them, 
perhaps too plainly, how strong 
are their powers of attraction k . 
The phraseology of the Florentine 
peasants is wonderfully elegant: 
but the most remarkable quality 
of these persons is their industry; 
for, during the hottest weather, 
they toil all day without sleep; 

(k) I ain sorry to say that lire ancient 
costume of the Tuscan peasants is less fre- 


S7 

and seldom retire early to rest : 
yet, notwithstanding this fatigue, 
they live almost entirely upon 
bread, fruit, pulse, and the com¬ 
mon wine of the country: how¬ 
ever, though their diet is light, and 
their bodily exertions are almost 
perpetual, they commonly attain 
old age ; especially in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Fiesole. 

My family and I about twenty 
years ago spent one summer at 
Careggi de’ Medici, and another at 
Careggi di Riccardi ; and during 
our residence in the latter villa, 
we invited all the surrounding pea¬ 
sants to a dance. Our ball-room 
was a lofty apartment sixty feet by 
thirty; and in the centre of the 
ceiling hung a lustre, composed of 
such light materials that every puff 
of wind gave it motion : indeed it 
had the appearance of being con¬ 
tinually turned round by an invi¬ 
sible hand: this lustre we filled 
with candles; and the walls, which 
were adorned with full-length por¬ 
traits of the Medici-Princes, we 
likewise decorated with festoons of 
vines, olive-branches, flowers, and 
lamps, so that the whole apart¬ 
ment resembled an illuminated ar¬ 
bour. At sun-set, on the appointed 
day, our guests appeared altoge¬ 
ther upon a lawn leading to the 
villa, preceded by their own band 
of music : and no sooner did this 
procession reach our hall door, than 
the musicians struck up a lively 
tune ; while the dancers, as they 
entered, formed a quadrille, which 
would have been applauded on any 
opera-stage. When this dance 
was finished, the female peasants 
advanced, in couples, to the top 
of the hall, where we were seated, 
paying their compliments to us 
with as much ease and elegance as 

quenlly worn than it used to be twenty 
years since. 


TUSCAN PEASANTRY. 


88 

if they had been educated in a 
court: and then commencing an¬ 
other quadrille, different from, 
but quite as pretty, as the 
first. With a succession of these 
dances we were amused till supper; 
after which our visitors, who had 
been regaled with punch, a liquor 
they particularly relish, came once 
more to us ; when the women re¬ 
turned thanks for their entertain¬ 
ment, kissed our hands, and, pre¬ 
senting their own to their partners, 
bowed and retired. 

I cannot dismiss the subject of 
Tuscan peasantry, without men¬ 
tioning another circumstance, 
which may perhaps serve to shew 
the grateful and delicate turn of 
mind possessed by these people. 

One day, as we were walking 
near Careggi, we observed a girl, 
apparently about fourteen years 
of age, watching a flock of goats, 
and at the same time spinning 
with great diligence : her tattered 
garments bespoke extreme po¬ 
verty ; but her air was peculiarly 
dignified, and her countenance so 
interesting, that we were irre¬ 
sistibly impelled to present her 
with a few crazie. Joy and gra¬ 
titude instantly animated her fine 
eyes while she exclaimed ; “Ne¬ 
ver, till this moment, was I worth 
so much money!”—Struck by her 
words and manner, we inquired 
her name ; likewise asking where 
her parents lived ? “ My name 

is Teresa,” replied she; “but, 
alas, I have no parents.” “ No 
parents!—who, then, takes care 
of you?”—“ The Madonna.”— 
“ But who brought you up ?”— 
“A peasant in Vallombrosa: I 
was her nurse-child; and I have 
heard her say my parents deli¬ 
vered me into her care; but that 


[Ch. iv. 

she did not know their name. As 
I grew up she almost starved me ; 
and, what was worse, beat me so 
cruelly, that, at length, I ran 
away from her.” “ And where do 
you live now ? ” “ Yonder, in the 

plain (pointing to Val d’Arnoj; 
I have fortunately met with a 
mistress who feeds me, and lets 
me sleep in her barn: this is her 
flock.” “ And are you happy 
now?” “O yes! very happy. 
At first, to be sure, it was lone¬ 
some sleeping in the barn by my¬ 
self ; ’tis so far from the house ; 
but I am used to it now: and in¬ 
deed I have not much time for 
sleep ; being obliged to work at 
night when I come home ; and I 
always go out with the goats at 
day-break: however, I do very 
well; for I get plenty of bread 
and grapes ; and my mistress ne¬ 
ver beats me.” After learning 
thus much, we presented our new 
acquaintance with a paul—but to 
describe the ecstasy this gift pro¬ 
duced is impossible.—“ Now,” 
cried she (when a flood of tears 
had enabled her to speak), “now 
I can purscliase a corona 1 —now 
I can go to mass, and petition the 
Madonna to preserve my kind be¬ 
nefactresses ! ” 

On taking leave of this inte¬ 
resting creature, we desired she 
would sometimes pay us a visit : 
our invitation, however, was only 
answered by a bow: and, to our 
regret, we neither saw nor heard 
of her again, till the day before 
our departure from Careggi; when 
it appeared that, immediately after 
her interview with us, she had 
been attacked by the small-pox, 
and was only just recovered. 

During the next summer, al¬ 
though we again resided in the 


TUSCAN PEASANTRY. 


( 1 ) Without a corona she informed us that 


she could not be permitted to go to mass. 


TUSCAN PEASANTRY. 


89 


Ch. IV.] 

same neighbourhood, we, for a 
considerable time, saw nothing of 
Teresa. One day, however, we 
observed a beautiful white goat 
browsing near our house ; and, 
on going out, perceived our Pro¬ 
tegee with her whole flock. We 
now inquired, almost angrily, why 
she had not visited us before ?— 
“ I was fearful of obtruding,” re¬ 
plied the scrupulous girl; “ but 
I have watched you at a distance, 
ladies, ever since your return; 
and I could not forbear coming 
rather nearer than usual to-day, 
in the hope that you might notice 
me.” We gave her a scudo, and 
again desired she would sometimes 
call upon us. “No, ladies,” re¬ 
plied she, “I am not properly 
dressed to enter your doors ; but, 
with the scudo you have kindly 
given me, I shall immediately 
purchase a stock of flax ; and 
then, should the Madonna bless 
me with health to work hard, I 
may soon be able, by selling my 


thread, to buy decent apparel, 
and wait upon you, clothed with 
the fruits of your bounty.”—And, 
indeed, it was not long ere we 
had the pleasure of seeing her 
come to visit us, neatly dressed, 
and exhibiting a picture of content. 

According to the excellent laws 
of the Emperor Leopoldo, father 
to the present Grand Duke of 
Tuscany, no man can be impri¬ 
soned for debt, though creditors 
have power to seize the property 
of their debtors ; and no offence 
is punishable with death, though 
murderers are condemned to per¬ 
petual labour as galley-slaves: 
and to these, and many other 
equally wise regulations, made by 
Leopoldo, are attributable the al¬ 
most total exemption from robbery 
and murder which this country 
has long enjoyed; and the in¬ 
crease to its population of two 
hundred thousand; an astonish¬ 
ing difference, as the original num¬ 
ber was only one million. 


CHAPTER V. 

PISA. 


Situation, supposed origin, and present appearance of Pisa—Duomo—Baptistery—Cam¬ 
panile—Campo-Santo—Sonnet to Grief—Chiesa de’ Cavalieri— Palazzo de’ Cavalieri— 
Chiese di San Frediano—di S. Anna—di S. Caterina— di S. Paolo all’ Orto—di 
S. Francesco—Church belonging to the Conservatorio di S. Silvestro—Chiese di 
S. Matteo—di S. Pierino—di S. Michele in Borgo—di S. Vito—della Spina—di S. An¬ 
drea in Chinseca—di S. Martino—Palazzi-Lanfranchi—Tonini—Lanfreducci—Casa- 
Mecherini—Palazzo-Seta—Royal Palace—Hospitals, %c. — University —Torre della 
Specola—Botanic Garden—Ancient Vapour-Bath—Suppressed Church of S. Felice- 
Subterranean part of S. Michele in Borgo—Aqueduct of Caldacolli—Modern Baths— 
Mountain of S. Giuliano—Modern Aqueduct—Canal—Royal Farm—Character of the 
Pisans—Hotels—Fountain-Water—Theatre—Bridges—Battle of the Bridge—Illumina¬ 
tion in honour of S. Ranieri—Carnival—Climate. 

As the road I took, from Flo- interest, I shall begin this chapter 
rence through La Scala to Pisa, with an account of the last-named 
exhibits no particular objects of town. 



90 


PISA. 


Pisa, one of the twelve great 
cities of Etruria, stands on the 
banks of the Arno, forty-eight 
miles distant from Florence, four¬ 
teen from Leghorn, and six from 
the Mediterranean sea. Strabo 
says, it was built by the Arca¬ 
dians, soon after the Trojan war ; 
while other authors suppose it yet 
more ancient: and, in modern 
times, it has been the capital of a 
great republic, whose conquering 
fleet w as a terror to the Saracens, 
a scourge to the African corsairs, 
and a check upon the ambition 
of Genoa: and with innumerable 
spoils, taken from the first-men¬ 
tioned people, most of the present 
buildings at Pisa were erected. 
This city is, next to Florence, the 
largest in Tuscany; but though 
its walls are nearly five miles in 
circumference, they do not, at the 
present moment, contain above 
eighteen thousand persons. The 
streets are wide, straight, and ex¬ 
cellently paved; the bridges ele¬ 
gant ; the quay is one of the finest 
in Europe ; and the situation of 
the Cathedral, Baptistery, Lean¬ 
ing Tower, and Campo-Santo, 
renders these majestic edifices par¬ 
ticularly striking and beautiful. 
The Arno traverses the city in 
the form of a crescent; and di¬ 
vides it nearly into two equal 
parts. 

The Duomo , a Gothic struc¬ 
ture, in the sh.ape of a Latin 
cross, built, (as I have already 
mentioned,) in the eleventh cen¬ 
tury, under the guidance of Bus- 
chetto, a Grecian, is remarkable 
for the richness and variety of 
its marbles ; and, next to the ca¬ 
thedrals of Milan and Siena, per¬ 
haps the finest church of its kind 
in Italy. The eastern front is 
ornamented with an immense 


[Ch. V. 

number of columns; some of 
which are Grecian marble, others 
oriental granite, and one is por¬ 
phyry: among these the most 
striking are six magnificent co¬ 
lumns which adorn the three cele¬ 
brated modern bronze-doors ; and 
are said to be either Grecian or 
Egyptian Workmanship. The mo¬ 
dern doors were designed by Gio¬ 
vanni di Bologna, and cast by 
P. D. Portigiani: that in the 
centre, deemed the least beauti¬ 
ful of the three, represents the life 
of the Madonna; and is sur¬ 
rounded by figures of Saints and 
Prophets, and embellished with 
an elegant border of foliage, fruits, 
and flowers. Those on the right 
and left represent the life of the 
Saviour, beginning with his birth, 
and ending with his crucifixion ; 
they are likewise embellished with 
a border, nearly similar to the one 
already described. The mosaics, 
in the arches above the doors, 
were done by Filippo di Lorenzo 
Palidini. The architrave of the 
eastern door was taken from an 
ancient edifice: and the bronze- 
door which fronts the Campa¬ 
nile, is esteemed for its antiqui¬ 
ty ; though not remarkable for 
merit of any other kind. The in¬ 
side of the church is adorned 
with seventy-four lofty columns ; 
sixty-two of which are oriental 
granite; and the rest rare marble : 
and although most of these co¬ 
lumns were originally unequal in 
height, and consequently ill-adapt¬ 
ed to match, yet so well has the 
architect disposed of and added to 
them, that even the most observ¬ 
ing eye perceives no want of sym¬ 
metry. Twelve altars, designed 
by Buonaroti and executed by 
Stagio Stagi, adorn the walls of 
this edifice. The high-altar is 


PISA. 


91 


Ch. V.] 

magnificently decorated with lapis 
lazuli m , verde antique, brocatello 
di Spagna, bronze gilt, giallo di 
Siena, §c.: the tribuna contains 
two porphyry columns, whose ca¬ 
pitals and bases are peculiarly 
elegant; that near the episcopal 
throne is embellished with the 
best works of Stagi, and bears a 
bronze angel greatly admired. The 
decorations of the opposite co¬ 
lumn were executed by Foggini: 
and the group of angels on a 
golden field, which adorn the 
great arch, by Ghirlandajo, the 
master of Buonaroti. The seats 
for the canons, (a sort of wooden 
mosaic introduced into Tuscany 
in the time of Brunellesco,) 
merit notice. The four pictures 
of S. Peter, S. John, S. Mar- 
gherita, and S. Caterina, are 
by Andrea del Sarto ; and the 
mosaic on the ceiling, represent¬ 
ing the Saviour, the Madonna, 
and S. John, was executed by 
Gaddo Gaddi and other artists, in 
1321. On the right side of the 
great cross is the Chapel ot S. 
Ranieri; whose scarcophagus rests 
on a pedestal of red Egyptian 
granite, adorned with other valu¬ 
able marbles: the sarcophagus is 
of verde di Polcevera, the altar ot 
giallo di Siena, and the balus¬ 
trades are of inlaid marble: the 
whole was executed by B. G. 
Foggini, at the command ot Co- 
simo iji., in honour of S. Ra¬ 
nieri, who died in 1161, and was 
proclaimed, by the Pisans, their 
Patron Saint. This chapel con¬ 
tains a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, 
representing the Madonna en¬ 
throned and attended by angels ; 
and an antique Grecian, or Ro¬ 
man statue, said to represent 
Mars, though now called S. Efeso. 


On the left side of the great cross 
is the Chapel of the Holy Sacra¬ 
ment ; which contains a ciborio of 
massy silver, and an altar adorned 
with silver bassi-rilievi; both 
well executed, after the designs 
of Foggini: the balustrades are 
of inlaid marble ; and here, like¬ 
wise, is a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, 
representing the Annunciation. 
At the bottom of the church, over 
the great entrance-doors, is a 
beautiful Bar, or gallery, orna¬ 
mented with bassi-rilievi, by Gio¬ 
vanni, the son of Niccolo Pisano; 
and it is much to be lamented 
that this fine work, which origi¬ 
nally adorned a pulpit, is now 
placed so high, that its merits are 
scarcely discernible: it represents 
scriptural histories. The centre- 
aisle contains a pulpit of inlaid 
marble, supported by tw r o small 
columns ; the one porphyry, the 
other oriental brocatello ; and the 
first is deemed particularly cu¬ 
rious, from consisting of various 
pieces so well joined that it may 
be properly denominated Breccia 
porfirea: the second is deemed 
the finest specimen of its sort in 
Italy. The pillar, on the right, 
which supports the cupola, is 
adorned with a picture by F. B. 
Gozzoli, who lived in the fifteenth 
century; it represents S. Tom- 
mas Aquinas disputing with an 
assembly of doctors ; and the pil¬ 
lar, on the left, is adorned with a 
picture of S. Agnes, by Andrea 
del Sarto! Among the pictures 
which I have not already men¬ 
tioned, those best w r orth notice 
are—the Madonna and our Sa¬ 
viour surrounded with saints, at¬ 
tributed to Pierino del Vaga and 
G. A. Sogliani—S. Ranieri put¬ 
ting on the religious habit, by 


(m) Lapis lazuli is said to be the Cyanaum of the ancients ; and Great Tartary is 

supposed to produce the best. 


92 


PISA. 


Cav. B. Luti—the death of S. 
Ranieri, by Cav. G. Melani, who 
flourished in the seventeenth cen¬ 
tury—the three Maries at the foot 
of the cross, by G. Bilivert—the 
adoration of the serpent in the 
wilderness, by O. Riminaldi— 
Habakkuk borne by an angel, by 
Bilivert—Judith giving the head 
of Holofernes to her servant, and 
the Madonna, our Saviour and 
saints, originally painted by Pas- 
signano, and added to by Tem- 
pesti—God the Father, Raphael, 
and other angels, by Salembini— 
and the institution of the Lord’s 
Supper,byTempesti. The bronze 
Griffin on the top of the Duomo 
is a curious antique intaglio, sup¬ 
posed to be Egyptian workman¬ 
ship. 

The Baptistery, a German- 
Gothic structure, erected (as has 
been already mentioned) by Dio- 
tisalvi, in the twelfth century, is 
an octagon of white marble, whose 
principal entrance is embellished 
with two large and two small co¬ 
lumns, similar to those which adorn 
the great doors of the Duomo. 

The inside of this edifice resem¬ 
bles an ancient temple. Twelve 
arches, supported by eight vast 
columns of Sardinian granite, and 
four pilasters of white marble, 
serve as the base to a second row 
of pilasters, on which rests the 
cupola. The capitals, both of 
pillars and pilasters, are antique. 
The Font, elevated on three steps 
of beautiful marble, is adorned 
with intagli and mosaics, so well 
executed, that they appear to have 
been done long before the build¬ 
ing. On the margin are four 
places for the immersion of infants; 

(n) Pisa, at the period above-mentioned, 
was supposed to contain 13,400 families; 
and, reckoning five persons to each family, 
the number of inhabitants will amount to 


[Ch. V. 

and, in the centre, is a large basin 
for the immersion of adults : this 
practice of immersion, however, 
has been abandoned since the 
thirteenth century. The Pulpit, 
one of Niccolo Pisano's best 
works, is supported by nine co¬ 
lumns of precious marble, and orna¬ 
mented with hassi-rilievi, formed 
out of oriental alabaster and Parian 
marble. The first piece represents 
the birth of our Saviour—the se¬ 
cond, the adoration of the Magi— 
the third, the Presentation in the 
Temple—the fourth, the Cruci¬ 
fixion (much inferior to the rest)— 
the fifth, the last Judgment. This 
Baptistery was finished in 1153 ; 
at which period Pisa is said to 
have been so populous, that a vo¬ 
luntary contribution of one florin, 
from every family, sufficed to pay 
for this noble edifice 11 . 

The Campanile, or Leaning 
Tower, begun by Guglielmo, a 
German, and Bonnano, Pisano, 
about the year 1174, is of a cir¬ 
cular form, nearly 190 feet in 
height, and declining above 13 
feet from its perpendicular. This 
beautiful edifice consists of eight 
stories, adorned with two hundred 
and seven columns of granite and 
other marbles, many of which have 
evidently been taken from ancient 
buildings. According to the opi¬ 
nion of the most respectable wri¬ 
ters, it appears that this tower ori¬ 
ginally was straight; though some 
accidental cause, such as an earth¬ 
quake, the great fire of Pisa, or 
the natural looseness of the soil, 
has produced its present extraor¬ 
dinary inclination: and in that 
part of the Campo-Santo where 
the life of S. Ranieri is painted, 

67,000—but the population of this city, 
during its most flourishing state, is said to 
have amounted to 150,000. 


93 


PISA. 


Ch. V.] 

we see this now leaning- tower per¬ 
fectly upright, and consisting of 
seven stories only: may not, there¬ 
fore, the eighth story, which rather 
inclines on the contrary side to the 
others, have been added, in latter 
times, as a balance, to prevent the 
whole edifice from falling ? The 
stairs leading up to the summit of 
this tower are easy of ascent; and 
the view from the eighth gallery 
is very extensive. 

The Campo-Santo, or ancient 
burial-ground, the most beautiful 
edifice at Pisa, and unique in its 
kind, is a vast rectangle, sur¬ 
rounded by sixty-two light and 
elegant Gothic arcades of white 
marble, and paved with the same. 
Archbishop Ubaldo Lanfranci, 
who was contemporary with Ri¬ 
chard Cceiir-de-lion, and his bro¬ 
ther warrior in the Holy Land, 
brought to Pisa a large quantity 
of earth from Mount-Cal vary, and 
deposited it on the spot round 
which the walls of the Campo- 
Santo are now erected. He is, 
therefore, supposed to have given 
the first idea of this edifice in 1200; 
and the present structure, eighteen 
vears afterward, was commenced 
under the direction of Giovanni, 
Pisano, who finished it in 1283. 
The statues over the principal 
door are by Giovanni, Pisano ; 
they stand in a kind of temple, 
and, among them, is the sculptor 
himself, kneeling to the Madonna. 
The sarcophagi under the .arcades 
are chiefly of Parian marble. Here 
is the Tomb of the Countess Bea¬ 
trice, who died in 1113, and was 
mother to the celebrated Countess 
Matilda, the last descendant from 
the Counts of Tuscany. On this 
Sarcophagus is represented, in 
basso-rilievo, the chase of Melea¬ 
ger, according to some opinions, 
and the story of Phaedra and Hip- 


politus, according to others : how¬ 
ever, be this as it may, the merit 
of the work proves it an ancient 
production, applied, in latter ages, 
to its present use ; and it is sup¬ 
posed that this sarcophagus was 
the model from which Niccolo, 
Pisano, and his son, used to study. 
Here, likewise, is an ancient Vase, 
embellished with bassi-rilievi, re¬ 
presenting Bacchanalian myste¬ 
ries, and which seems to have been 
one of the vessels employed by the 
Greeks and Romans in their re¬ 
ligious ceremonies. Round the 
walls are fresco-paintings of the 
fourteenth and fifteenth century ; 
which, however deficient in many 
respects, cannot but yield pleasure 
to those persons who wish, on their 
entrance into Italy, to view the 
works of the Revivers of an art 
afterward brought to exquisite 
perfection. In the first division 
of the arcade, on the western wall, 
are six large pictures, representing 
the life of S. Ranieri; the three 
upper ones being by Simone 
Memmi; the three under ones, by 
Antonio, called Veneziano: and 
they particularly merit notice, on 
account of the costume accurately 
preserved throughout them all, 
and likewise because they show 
how ships were armed and rigged 
in the days of S. Ranieri. In one 
of these pictures is the Campanile: 
they all are supposed to have been 
begun in 1300. The second di¬ 
vision contains six paintings, re¬ 
presenting the life and death of 
Saints Efeso and Potito, done by 
Spinello Spinelli, Aretino, about 
the year 1400. The third division 
contains six paintings, represent¬ 
ing the history of Job, by Giotto ; 
so injured, however, by the hand 
of time, that it is difficult to dis¬ 
tinguish them, although, in 1623, 
they were retouched, by Marus- 


94 


prsA. 


eelli. The other painting’s of this 
arcade are said to have been done 
by Nelli di Vanni, Pisano. The 
two first pictures in the second 
arcade represent the history of 
Esther, by Ghirlandajo; retouched, 
however, by Aurelio, or Baccio 
Lorni. The second division of this 
arcade contains the history of Ju¬ 
dith ; which is modern, ill-done, 
and damaged. The first division 
of the northern arcade contains 
four pictures, representing the 
Creation, by Buffalmacco, who 
flourished in the beginning of the 
fourteenth century. The other 
paintings which adorn this arcade 
(those over the doors of the cha¬ 
pels excepted) represent the prin¬ 
cipal events of the book of Gene¬ 
sis ; and were begun by B. Goz- 
zoli, in 1484, and finished in the 
short space of two years. The 
first of these numerous pictures 
contains the famous Vergognosa 
di Campo-Santo; and over the 
chapel-door is the adoration of 
the Magi, by which work Gozzoli 
established his reputation among 
the Pisans, and prevailed with 
them to employ him in painting 
their Campo-Santo; not merely 
on account of the general merit 
of the picture, but because it ex¬ 
hibited an excellent likeness of 
his mistress, a Pisan girl, whom 
he drew, to display his imitative 
powers. Over the same door is 
the Annunciation, attributed to 
Stefano, Fiorentino ; and the fifth 
lower picture from this, is particu¬ 
larly interesting, as it contains se¬ 
veral portraits of illustrious men, 
and among them that of Lorenzo 
de’ Medici. Over the door of the 
second chapel is the coronation of 
the Madonna, by Taddeo Bartoli; 
and in the fifth lower picture, be¬ 
yond this chapel, are portraits of 
other illustrious men, among whom 


[Ch. V. 

the painter has placed himself, 
though his figure is almost totally 
obliterated. These works, by Goz¬ 
zoli, are, generally speaking, the 
best preserved of any in the Campo- 
Santo. The paintings of the east¬ 
ern arcade, so far as the chapel- 
door, are by Zaccaria Rondinosi, 
Pisano, and were executed in 1666; 
they represent the history of King 
Ozia, and Balteshazzar’s feast. 
Beyond the chapel are three paint¬ 
ings, said to be by Buffalmacco, 
and representing the crucifixion, 
resurrection, and ascension of the 
Saviour. The next picture which 
is in that part of the southern ar¬ 
cade not already described, repre¬ 
sents the triumphs of Death, and 
was done by Andrea Orcagna, who 
flourished in the middle of the four¬ 
teenth century: it contains several 
portraits. The second large pic¬ 
ture, by the same master, is the 
univeral Judgment, in which So¬ 
lomon is represented as dubious 
whether he may go to Heaven or 
Hell. The next picture, or rather 
a compartment of the last, repre¬ 
sents Dante’s Inferno ; and was 
painted by Bernardo Orcagna, 
brother to Andrea, and restored 
by Sollazino, who flourished about 
the year 1530. The fourth pic¬ 
ture represents the history of the 
Anchorites, by Laurati, the pupil 
of Giotto: and over the great door 
is an Assumption, by Simone 
Memmi, one of the best preserved 
pictures of the fourteenth century. 

It is remarkable that, among 
the immense number of counte¬ 
nances contained in these paint¬ 
ings, we scarcely find two alike. 
The faces, generally speaking, are 
well done ; the figures and drapery 
stiff; the perspective is bad ; but 
the borders, which form the several 
compartments, are particularly ele¬ 
gant. Among the monuments is 


PISA. 


95 


Ch. V.] 

that of Count Algarotti, erected 
by Frederic the Great, of Prussia; 
but remarkable only for the beauty 
of the marble: near this is the 
sarcophagus of G. F. Vegio, by 
Taddo ; and, in the eastern ar¬ 
cade, is the monument of Filippo 
Decio ; who had it erected in his 
life-time; giving-, as a reason, 
“ That he feared posterity would 
not have done it for him.” This 
monument is by Stagio Stagi. 
Under Orcagna’s picture of the 
triumphs of Death stands an an¬ 
cient Roman Mile-stone ; which 
was discovered on the Via-Emilia, 
near Rimazzano, and thence trans¬ 
ported to Pisa ; and on each side 
of this column is an inscription, 
the one to the memory of Lucius, 
and the other to that of Caius 
Caesar, the adopted sons of Au¬ 
gustus. Six hundred ancient fa¬ 
milies of Pisa, beside many illus¬ 
trious characters of different na¬ 
tions, are said to be interred in the 
Campo-Santo. 

The solemn grandeur of this 
burial-ground, prompted me to 
compose the following sonnet to 
Grief; which I am tempted to in¬ 
sert, because it is descriptive of 
the Campo-Santo: 

Structure unmatch’d! which braves the 
lapse of Time! 

Fit cradle the reviving arts to rear ! 
Light, as the paper Nautilus, appear 
Thy arches, of Pisano’s works the prime. 
Famed Campo-Santo! where the mighty 
Dead, 

Of elder days, in Parian marble sleep, 
Say, who is she, that ever seems to keep 
Watch o’er thy precincts; save when mortal 
tread 

Invades the awful stillness of the scene? 
Then, struggling to suppress the heavy 
sigh, 

And brushing the big tear-drop from 
her eye. 

She veils her face—and glides yon tombs 
between. 

>Tis Grief! —by that thick veil the Maid 
1 know, 

Moisten’d with tears which never cease to 
flow. 


The Chiesa de' Cavalieri , or 
Church of S. Stefano, from whom 
the square in which it stands is 
named, was built by Vasari: the 
high-altar, by Foggini, is of por¬ 
phyry ; so likewise is the sarco¬ 
phagus above it, reputed to contain 
the bones of S. Stephen ; and the 
bronze-chair, suspended over the 
sarcophagus, was presented by In¬ 
nocent xii. to Cosimo in. On 
the ceiling are six paintings rela¬ 
tive to the Knights of S. Stefano; 
the two first by Ligozzi, the two 
next by Empoli, the fifth, by Ci- 
goli, and the last, which represents 
Cosimo i., receiving the habit of 
the order, is by Cristofano Allori. 
On the walls and ceiling are tro¬ 
phies taken from the Infidels, by 
the Knights of S. Stefano. This 
church contains a very curious 
organ ; reputed to be the finest in 
Europe; a nativity, by Bron¬ 
zino; and a silver crucifix, by Al- 
gardi. 

The Palazzo de' Cavalieri, si¬ 
tuated in the same square, was 
built by Vasari; and, over the 
principal entrance are busts of six 
Grand Masters of the order, be¬ 
ginning with Cosimo i., who in¬ 
stituted these Knights to defend 
the Mediterranean against Turks 
and Corsairs, by means of galleys, 
on board of which every Knight 
was compelled to serve three years 
ere he could be finally received 
into the order: but, when peace 
was established between Barbary 
and the Tuscans, the Knights and 
their galleys became useless; in¬ 
somuch that the latter were, in 
1755, all broken up and de¬ 
stroyed. 

Near to the Palazzo de’ Cava¬ 
lieri, there formerly stood a build¬ 
ing, now totally demolished, which 
was called the Tower of Famine, 


96 


PISA. 


[Ch. V. 


from having' been the prison of 
Ugolino 0 . 

The Chiesa di S. Frediano , 
which is supported by columns of 
oriental granite with ancient ca¬ 
pitals, contains a painting- of our 
Saviour on the cross, done, in the 
thirteenth century by Giunto, 
Pisano. 

The Chiesa di S. Anna con¬ 
tains a curious representation of 
our Saviour on the cross, wrought 
in wood, on the tabernacle of the 
high-altar: and this wooden sculp¬ 
ture of which there are several 
specimens in Pisa, is attributed to 
G. Giaccobi, Pisano. 

The Chiesa di S. Caterina 
contains a curious picture, by F. 
Traini, one of the most skilful dis¬ 
ciples of Andrea Orcagna: this pic¬ 
ture represents S.Thomas Aquinas 
surrounded by the fathers of the 
church, among whom is a portrait 
of Urban vi.; at the feet of these 
are several philosophers and he¬ 
retics, with their works torn in 
pieces ; and what seems very in¬ 
congruous, S. Thomas himself is 
placed between Plato and Aris¬ 
totle, who are presenting him with 
their literary productions. 

The Chiesa di S. Paolo all' 
Orto contains a head of our Sa¬ 
viour, which appears to have been 
done in the twelfth century. 

The Chiesa di S. Francesco, 
supposed to have been built after 
the designs of Niccolo, Pisano, 
contains a Chapel dedicated to S. 
Antonio da Padova, and painted 
by Salembini and Maruscelli— 
a Chapel painted by Passignano ; 


together with a Madonna and 
Child, said to have been done in 
the fourteenth century—another 
Chapel (near the Sacristy) the 
paintings in which are attributed 
to Spinello, Aretino, who likewise 
did the large picture over the Sa¬ 
cristy-door—a picture, in the Sa¬ 
cristy, by Giotto, of S. Francesco 
receiving the elect: and, in the 
Sacristy-chapel, the Madonna and 
saints, painted in 1395, by T. 
Bartoli. In the Cloister to the 
right of the little steps which lead 
into the church, the bones of Ugo- 
lino, his sons, and nephews, are, 
according to tradition, deposited. 

The Church belonging to the 
Conservatorio di S. Silvestro 
contains two antique paintings, 
by Guidotti; and a small basso- 
rilievo, in terra cotta, attributed 
to Luca della Robbia, the inven¬ 
tor of painting upon glass. 

The Chiesa di S. Matteo, built 
by the brothers Melani, is remark¬ 
able for the fresco-paintings of 
those artists, which are so skilfully 
managed as to make the roof ap¬ 
pear wonderfully higher than it 
really is. 

The Chiesa di S. Pierino, sup¬ 
posed to have been an ancient 
heathen temple, contains a Ma¬ 
donna, painted on the wall, and a 
crucifix, by Giunto, Pisano. The 
ornaments on the outside of the 
great door are ancient and beau¬ 
tiful ; the pavement is of pietri 
duri; and the edifice stands on 
an ancient Bone-house, which 
contains two sarcophagi of Parian 
marble, together with paintings. 


(o) Count Ugolino, a Pisan nobleman, attacked his palace, seized his person and 

entered into a conspiracy with Archbishop cast him and his family into prison • till at 

Rugiero, to depose the governor of Pisa; length, refusing them food, and throwing 

in which enterprise, having succeeded, the key of their dungeon into the Arno he 

Ugolino assumed the government of the left them, in this dreadful situation to be 

city : but the Archbishop, jealous of his starved to death ! 

power, incited the people against him ; See Dante’s Inferno, Canto XXXIII 


PISA. 


97 


/ 


Oh. V.] 

in the style of those which adorn 
the Campo-Sauto. 

The Chiesa di S. Michele in 
Borgo , said to have been built be¬ 
fore the eleventh century, by Gu- 
glielmo Pisano, is incrusted with 
cerulean marble, supported by an¬ 
cient columns of Granitello, and 
adorned with a marble crucifix, 
wrought by Niccolo, Pisano, and 
originally placed in the Campo- 
Santo. The Madonna, under 
this crucifix, is supposed to be one 
of the most ancient paintings in 
Pisa. The cupola, the upper- 
nave, the vision of S. Romualdo, 
. the expedition to Majorca and 
Minorca, and the institution of 
the Foundling Hospital, are all 
painted by Guidotti. 

The Chiesa di S. Tito, or, 
more properly speaking, the Cap- 
pella di S. Ranieri, contains a 
fresco representing the death of 
the Saint, and executed, not many 
years since, by Tempesti, in his 
best manner. The surrounding 
architectural ornaments are by 
CiofFo. 

The Chiesa della Spina exhi¬ 
bits monuments of the ancient 
Pisan school of sculpture, namely, 
the Madonna, our Saviour, S. 
John and S. Peter, by Nino, Pi¬ 
sano, one of the Revivers of the 
art; two figures attributed to 
Moschino : and a half-length Ma¬ 
donna, bv Nino. 

The Chiesa di S. Andrea in 
Chinseca contains a valuable mo¬ 
nument of the Greco-Pisano school, 
namely, our Saviour on the cross ; 
which appears to have been done 
in the thirteenth century. 

The Chiesa di S. Martino 
contains a crucifix, by Giunta, 
PisanoP. 

(«) The Churches at Pisa contain many 
Paintings, by old Tuscan masters, which I 
have not mentioned; and a minute de- 


The Palazzo-Lanfranchi, on 
that side of the Arno called Parte 
di mezzo-giorno , was built after 
the design of Buonaroti. 

The Palazzo-Tonini contains 
two paintings, in fresco, from 
Tasso’s Gerusalemme, begun by 
Mclani, and finished by Tommasi, 
his scholar. 

The Palazzo - Lanfreducci, 
which is incrusted with statuary 
marble, has a chain, and these 
words over the door ; “ Alla gi- 
ornata" —many tales are told in 
consequence ; but none of them 
seem sufficiently authenticated to 
be worth relating. This palace 
contains a celebrated picture, by 
Guido, the subject of which is, 
sacred and profane love, repre¬ 
sented by two boys: perhaps the 
subject of this picture may have 
been taken from Plato, who says, 
there are two Cupids, as different 
as day and night; the one pos¬ 
sessing every virtue, the other 
every vice. 

Casa-Mecherini, on the op¬ 
posite side of the Arno, and called 
Parte di Tramontana , contains a 
celebrated Sibyl, by Guercino ; 
with frescos by Tempesti and 
Cioffo. 

The Palazzo-Seta, in Via S. 
Cecilia, contains frescos by the 
brothers Melani ; as do the Pa¬ 
lazzo del Publico, and the Pa¬ 
lazzo de Priori. 

In the regal Palace the ceilings 
are painted with elegance ; and 
the furniture, though plain, is 
handsome. 

The Hospitals are spacious ; 
and the Loggia de' Banchi and 
Casino Nobili, are fine buildings. 

The University of Pisa was 
founded by the Emperor Henry 

scription of them may be found in Mor- 
lona’s History of Pisa. 

Jf 


98 


PISA. 


vii. ; though in consequence of 
civil wars, it became almost anni¬ 
hilated, till the reign of Cosiino i.; 
by whom it was re-established on 
the present plan, in 1543: it has 

{ woduced as many, if not more, 
earned men than any other public 
seminary in Italy. 

The Torre della Specula, or 
Observatory, was erected about 
the year 1735; and is furnished 
with good instruments. 

The botanic Garden was found¬ 
ed by Ferdinando, second son of 
Cosimo i.; and has been greatly 
improved by Sig. Santi, one of 
the Professors of the University ; 
a Gentleman whose literary pro¬ 
ductions do honour both to his 
head and heart; and whose kind¬ 
ness toward the British Nation 
has ever been such as to command 
their sincerest gratitude and high¬ 
est esteem. 

There seems little doubt that 
Pisa was a Roman colony, often 
visited by the Caesars: and Nero, 
about the year 57, is said to have 
made an excursion to this city, 
with which he was so mucli pleased, 
that he embellished it with a mag¬ 
nificent palace and a temple dedi¬ 
cated to Diana, which stood at 
the entrance of the Lucca-gate. 
This temple was built in the form 
of a rotunda ; all of marble with¬ 
out ; the ceiling being an imita¬ 
tion of the starry firmament. The 
internal decorations consisted of 
oriental marble columns, with va¬ 
rious pieces of sculpture and paint¬ 
ing ; the pavement was Egyptian 
marble, and the statue of the 
goddess stood in its centre. Whe¬ 
ther the palace did, or did not en¬ 
close this temple, is unknown; 
but the former is described as 
being highly ornamented, and of 
a vast extent, containing baths, 
gardens, and fish-ponds: and it 


[Ch. V. 

is added that Nero, in order to 
have it amply supplied with water, 
built the aqueduct of Monti-Pi- 
sani, which extended from Calda- 
colii to the Lucca-gate. Such is 
the account given of Nero’s temple 
and palace: and it is certain that 
the buildings, of the Hypocaustum , 
extended from the Duomo to the 
vicinity of the Monastery of S. 
Zenone. It is equally certain that 
foundations of immense buildings 
have been discovered in the gar¬ 
dens which now occupy the space 
between the church of S. Zenone 
and the Duomo ; that numberless 
pieces of marble are seen in the 
walls and buildings, which at pre¬ 
sent stand upon the above-named 
space ; and two ruins, near the 
Lucca-gate, one of which has 
been recently demolished, were evi¬ 
dently parts of the Hypocaustum: 
these circumstances concur with 
several others to establish the 
truth of what I have advanced. 
The most respectable remains of 
these antiquities is the Vapour- 
Bath, situated in a garden close 
to the Lucca-gate : this bath is an 
octagon, with four semi-circular 
niches ; in the upper part of which 
are terra-cotta tubes of a trian¬ 
gular shape. Opposite to the en¬ 
trance there appears to have been 
a place reserved for some marble 
ornament. The roof forms a semi¬ 
circle, and contains eight places 
to admit light, beside an octagon 
aperture in the centre. The pave¬ 
ment, leading to the great fur¬ 
nace, was made of calcistruzzo , 
with a surface of marble one finger 
thick, to walk or lie down upon. It 
is probable that, under this marble 
pavement, there were vaulted 
rooms, where the attendants kept 
up perpetual fires: and some per¬ 
sons imagine that under every 
niche were vases filled with water. 


PISA. 


Ch. V.] 

which, un being- heated by the 
fires, impregnated the apartments 
with vapour. Ancient baths al¬ 
ways consisted of four apartments, 
distinguished by the appellations 
of cold, tepid, hot, and sudatory ; 
and the apartment called tepid, in 
the men’s bath, always communi¬ 
cated with the same apartment in 
the women’s bath: and there is 
no doubt that the bath above de¬ 
scribed consisted of four apart¬ 
ments, as traces of them may yet 
be discovered. From the appear¬ 
ance of the bath now remaining, it 
seems to have been lined through¬ 
out with marble; and the six 
Grecian columns on the sides of the 
bronze doors of the Duomo, to¬ 
gether with the other two, which 
ornament the principal door of 
the Baptistery, are supposed to 
have been taken from this build¬ 
ing. In the garden adjoining to 
the bath, stood the Monastery of 
S. Zenone, vulgarly called S. 
Zeno; of which, however, the 
Church only remains ; and in it 
are sarcophagi, which, though 
mutilated and almost defaced, still 
possess sufficient beauty to make 
us execrate the hand of avarice 
or barbarism which has thus de¬ 
stroyed these valuable remains of 
Grecian sculpture. 

A house, belonging to the noble 
family Da Paulie, seems to have 
been formed out of the ruins of 
an ancient theatre ; judging from 
the granite columns of different 
orders discoverable in the walls. 

In the suppressed Church of 
S. Felice are two columns of 
oriental granite, with capitals 
adorned by mythological figures, 
supposed to represent Jupiter, 
Harpocrates, Diana, Minerva, 
Isis, Ceres, and Genii. They 
probably belonged to a Roman 
temple, on the site of which the 


99 

church of S. Felice is said to have 
been erected. The sculpture 
seems to be of Septimius Se- 
verus’s time. 

The subterranean part of S. 
Michele in Borgo deserves no¬ 
tice ; the pillars and walls are of 
pietre verrucane, the roof is 
tufo, and curiously ornamented 
with firabesques, resembling those 
which adorn Livia’s baths at 
Rome, and not unlike, in style, 
to many of the paintings found in 
Herculaneum. This building could 
not have been a Christian church, 
because the primitive Christians 
adorned their churches with no¬ 
thing but quotations from Holy 
Writ ; therefore it must, in all 
probability, have been erected pre¬ 
vious to the time of Constantine. 

The Aqueduct of Caldacolli, 
so called from the hot spings which 
supply it, is supposed to be that 
erected by Nero: eight arches may 
still be seen at the distance of about 
two hundred yards from the mo¬ 
dern baths of Pisa; and ruins of 
the whole are discoverable between 
this spot and the Lucca-gate. 

No vestiges remain of the an¬ 
cient Port of Pisa, mentioned by 
Strabo : but it is supposed to have 
been near the mouth of the Arno, 
and not far from Leghorn. We 
are told that this port was pro¬ 
tected neither by mole nor pier ; 
and though open to every wind, 
yet vessels rode securely on its 
bosom, owing to the size and te¬ 
nacity of the weeds, which were 
so closely interwoven as to exclude 
the agitation of the sea. 

The modern Baths, situated 
about three miles and a half to the 
north of Pisa, are elegant, commo¬ 
dious, and surrounded by several 
good lodging-houses. These baths, 
the most celebrated in Italy, have 
the reputation of being particularly 

H 2 


100 


PISA. 


beneficial in gouty cases, and dis¬ 
eases of the liver. 

Two large fragments of co¬ 
lumns with two capitals, which 
bear marks of remote antiquity, 
together with several other con¬ 
curring circumstances, lead us to' 
imagine these modern baths oc¬ 
cupy the same ground with those 
mentioned by Strabo and Pliny. 

The Mountain of S. Giuliano, 
which rises immediately above the 
baths, exhibits some curious ca¬ 
verns. 

The modern Aqueduct, begun 
by Ferdinando i., and finished by 
his son, Cosimo n., is a magnifi¬ 
cent work, worthy the Princes of 
the House of Medicis: it com¬ 
mences at a village, called As- 
ciano, and extends to Pisa, a dis¬ 
tance of four miles, conveying to 
that city the most pure and deli¬ 
cious water in Europe. 

The Canal, which extends from 
Pisa to Leghorn, was made by 
Ferdinando i. 

The royal Farm, or Cascina, 
near Pisa, situated in an exten¬ 
sive and beautiful forest of cork¬ 
trees, ever-green oaks, $-c., and 
washed by the sea, is worth no¬ 
tice ; as it contains camels, who, 
though foreigners, breed here, and 
are employed as beasts of burden: 
they are, however, much less nu¬ 
merous at present than they were 
twenty years ago. The Grand 
Duke, Leopoldo, was the first 
person who attempted to breed 
camels in Italy. 

The nobility of Pisa, and all the 
gentlemen belonging to the Uni¬ 
versity, are remarkably civil and 
kind to foreigners, the lower clas¬ 
ses of people respectful and hu¬ 
mane, but exacting. 

The two principal Hotels in this 
city are, Le tre Donzelle , and 
L'Ussero, the former of which has 


[Oh. V- 

the advantage in point of situation, 
and is, moreover, a tolerably good 
inn, though by no means so com¬ 
fortable as private lodgings on 
that side of the quay called, Parte 
di mezzo- giorno, tor, on the op¬ 
posite side, and in many of the 
streets and squares, the houses are 
damp, and consequently unwhole¬ 
some. 

Travellers should be especially 
careful to send for the Fountain- 
Water of Pisa that flows through 
the Aqueduct; because the well- 
water, with which the houses are 
supplied, is seldom fit either for 
drinking or even for kitchen use- 

IVie Theatre here is capacious, 
but not elegant. 

The three Bridges, as I have 
already mentioned, are handsome, 
especially the middle one, which is 
composed of marble and pietra 
verrucana; and the mock fight, oc¬ 
casionally exhibited on this bridge, 
is perhaps almost the only remain¬ 
ing vestige of those martial games 
heretofore so famous among the 
Greeks and Romans. The amuse¬ 
ment consists in a battle fought 
by 960 corabiitants, who, clothed 
in coats of mail, and armed with 
wooden clubs, dispute, for forty- 
five minutes, the passage of the 
bridge. The strongest combat¬ 
ants possess themselves of the 
field of battle, and when it is pos¬ 
sible to employ stratagem they 
never let slip the opportunity, but 
to fight in earnest is forbidden ; 
nevertheless this mock encounter 
frequently costs lives, and is, there¬ 
fore, but seldom permitted, though 
one of the most beautiful exhibi¬ 
tions in Italy. Some authors tell 
us it was instituted by Pelops, son 
of Tantalus, King of Phrygia; 
others think it was established by 
Nero ; while others believe it to 
have been originally celebrated in 


PISA. 


101 


Ch. V.] 

memory of the defeat of Musetto, 
King- of Sardinia, which happened 
in the year 1005, upon a bridge at 
Pisa: but whoever the institutor 
might be, the amusement is en¬ 
tered into, by the Pisans, with a 
degree of spirit that exceeds all 
description 9. 

There is likewise, every third 
year, on the 17th of June, a sin¬ 
gular and most beautiful illumina¬ 
tion here, in honour of S. Rani- 
eri. On this night the whole 
Lung'-Arno appears like an im¬ 
mense crescent of magnificent and 
regularly built palaces, studded 
with innumerable quantities of dia¬ 
monds ; some in the Tuscan, others 
in the Gothic, and others in the 
grotesque or Chinese style of ar¬ 
chitecture (which participates so 
much of the Egyptian, that many 
persons believe the Chinese were 
originally an Egyptian colony r .) 
Add to this, the three bridges or¬ 
namented by temples blazing with 
jewels; and such is the scene 
which Pisa presents to view at this 
general illumination—no wonder, 
therefore, that Ariosto is said to 
have borrowed images from so 

• ( q ) When a man stands candidate for the 
honour of being a combatant, he is cased in 
armour, and then beat for half an hour 
with wooden clubs ; during which cere¬ 
mony, should he happen to flinch, or cry 
out, he is rejected ; but if he do neither, he 
is chosen. 


splendid and singular an exhibi¬ 
tion, which can only be likened to 
an enchanted city. 

The immense length and beau¬ 
tiful curve of the Pisa-quay contri¬ 
bute greatly to the splendour of 
these two exhibitions, the ground 
being so shaped that all the spec¬ 
tators are seen at once, whether 
in balconies, carriages, on foot, or 
in boats upon the river : and the 
same cause renders the Carnival at 
Pisa particularly beautiful ; for, 
during the last week of this whim¬ 
sical diversion, the whole quay is 
filled with masks, from three in 
the afternoon till the commence¬ 
ment of the pastimes at the thea¬ 
tre. 

The Carneia , or Carnival, ap¬ 
pears to have been a festivity ob¬ 
served in most of the Grecian ci¬ 
ties, but especially at Sparta, where 
it took birth about 675 years be¬ 
fore the Christian era, in honour of 
Apollo, surnamed Carneus. It 
lasted nine days. 

The climate of Pisa, during win¬ 
ter, is one of the best in Europe, 
though at other seasons not equally 
salubrious. 

( r ) The belief that the Chinese were ori¬ 
ginally an Egyptian colony, has lately been 
strengthened by a discovery, in the Cabi¬ 
net of Medals at Milan, of a Chinese work, 
containing drawings of nearly a thousand 
antique Vases, resembling those called 
Etruscan, and of Egyptian origin. 



102 


MASSA—CARRARA. 


[Ch. VI. 


CHAPTER VI. 

GENOA, NICE, TURIN, LEGHORN, LUCCA, 

Excursion from Pisa to Genoa—New Road—Harbour, Fanale,Fortifications, Streets, and 
Bridge of the latter City—Cathedral, and other Churches—Residenzadei Dogi—Palazzo 
Durazzo—University—Palazzo-Doria, and other Palaces—Hospitals—Albergodei Poveri 
—Theatre—Hotels—Population—Provisions—Climate—Character of the Genoese—De¬ 
scription of Nice, and its Climate—Journey over the Maritime Alps to Turin—Popula¬ 
tion of that City—Bridge erected by the French—Regal Palace—Cathedral, and other 
Churches—Theatre—University—Public Garden and Ramparts — Hotels—Climate — 
Water—Environs—Alessandria—Plain of Marengo—New Road over the Bocchetta— 
Old Road—Leghorn—Harbour, Light-house, Fortifications, and other objects best worth 
notice in the Town and its Environs—Inns—Lucca—Population—Cathedral—Other 
Churches—Palazzo-Publico—Ancient Amphitheatre—Modern Theatre—Character of 


the Lucchesi—Seminary founded by the I 
— Environs of the Bagni—Peasantry—Mo 
Villas between the Baths of Lucca and th 

The road from Pisa to Lerici 
is tolerably good, during summer, 
but at other seasons travellers fre¬ 
quently embark at Via-Reggio (a 
small sea-port belonging to the 
Lucchesi, and famous for the ex¬ 
cellence of its fish,) going thence 
either in a deck-vessel or a felucca s 
to Genoa, between which city and 
Lerici there was only a mule-path 
when we made this excursion ; the 
carriage-road, begun long since, 
is now, however, passable • though 
not finished: it lies at the edge of 
precipices without any fence to 
guard travellers from accidents; 
and through torrents difficult to 
ford ; but it commands sublime 
scenery: and when parapet walls 
are erected on the heights, and 
bridges thrown over the torrents, 
(which may probably be accom¬ 
plished in the course of two years,) 
this road will vie in excellence with 
those of Cenis and the Simplon. 
At present the only good inns on 
the new road are La Posta , at 

(s) A felucca is an open boat, which makes 
use both of sails and oars, always keeping 


l incess Elise—Inn—Marlia—Bagni di Lucca 
le of cultivating this part of the Apennine— 
City—Road through Pistoja to Florence. 

Pietra Santa ; L'Europa , at La 
Spezia ; and II Ponte , at Sestri. 

Between Pisa and Via-Reggio 
we crossed the Serchio, anciently 
the Ansar , in a ferry ; finding, at 
the latter town, a tolerable inn, 
though unhealthily situated. 

We then proceeded to Pietra 
Santa, placed in the neighbour¬ 
hood of a marsh, the exhalations 
from which are extremely noxious, 
particularly toward sun-set. The 
inn here, being comfortable, is 
sometimes preferred, as a sleeping- 
place, to that at Massa, which can¬ 
not be commended; though in point 
of air and situation, the latter town 
is infinitely preferable to the former. 
Not far hence are quarries of Se- 
ravezza-marble. Massa, seated in 
a pleasant valley, near the sea, is 
small, but well-built; and contains 
a handsome Royal residence, to¬ 
gether with some good pictures in 
its Churches: and five miles dis¬ 
tant from this town is Carrara, 
whose quarries produce marble, 

near shore, and, in case of bad weather, 
running immediately into harbour. 


GENOA. 


103 


Oh. Vl.J 

perhaps, for the purposes of sculp ¬ 
ture, the most beautiful in the 
world ; though, for want of proper 
care in transporting- the blocks, 
they are frequently split and broken. 
Carrara contains nearly 3,500 in¬ 
habitants ; and is built of marble, 
taken from the adjacent quarries, 
which are well worth seeing-, and 
where fine crystals are often found: 
it owes much to its late Sovereign, 
the Princess Elise, who converted 
her Palace here into an Academy 
of Sculpture, richly stored with 
models, both ancient and modern, 
and well worth observation. 

Having passed Lavenza, for¬ 
merly Aventia, the Port whence 
the Carrara-marble is conveyed to 
every part of Europe, we pro¬ 
ceeded to Sarzana, a large town 
near the site of the ancient Lima ; 
and on arriving at Lerici, for¬ 
merly Ericis-Portus, embarked 
in a felucca for Genoa 4 ; coasting 
the Riviera, and passing Porto- 
Venere, defended by two castles, 
near which ships go through a 
narrow strait into the Gulf of 
Spezia, supposed to have been 
the Portus-Lunce of the Romans; 
and a peculiarly large and safe 
harbour, surrounded with towns, 
villages, and plantations, abound¬ 
ing in olive-trees, vines, and 
fruit. 

Genoa, in Italian Genova, called 
La Superba, anciently a city of 
Liguria, and the first which fell 
under the Roman yoke, appears to 
great advantage when viewed from 
the sea, about one mile distant 
from the shore; for, then, its 
numberless and stately edifices re¬ 
present the seats of a vast am- 

(t) The distance, by sea, from Lerici to 
Genoa, is about twenty leagues ; the price 
commonly given for a felucca, from five 
to six sequins; and the time usually em¬ 
ployed in going, from twelve to fifteen 


phitheatre, placed on a declivity 
of the enormous Apennine. The 
Harbour of Genoa is capacious 
and beautiful; but not safe, being 
too much exposed to the Libecio, 
or south-west wind. The Fanale , 
or Light-House, is a lofty tower, 
built on an isolated rock at the 
west side of the harbour. The 
fortifications, toward the sea, ap¬ 
pear strong ; being cut out of the 
rocks: but the naval power of this 
country, once so formidable, seems 
now reduced to a few galleys,chiefly 
employed in fetching corn from 
Sicily. Genoa is defended by two 
walls ; one of which immediately 
encompasses the town, while the 
other takes in the rising grounds 
that command it. The streets, 
three excepted, are not wide enough 
to admit the use of carriages. The 
roofs of the houses are flat, and 
frequently adorned with orange- 
trees. Here is a fine stone bridge 
over the Bonzevera, and another 
over the Bisagno; the former 
stream washing the western, the 
latter the eastern, side of the 
city. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to S. 
Loreu/o, is a Gothic structure, 
incrusted and paved with marble, 
and adorned with a Crucifixion, by 
Baroccio. The bones of S. John 
Baptist are said to be deposited in 
one of the chapels. 

The Annunziata, though built 
at the sole expense of the Lomel- 
lino family, is one of the most costly 
churches in Genoa, and contains a 
a fine picture of the last supper, 
by G. C. Procaccino. 

S. Maria in Carignano, built 
in obedience to the will of Bendi- 

hours: though, if there be no wind, or if 
the wind be contrary. Travellers are com¬ 
pelled to land, for the night, at Portofino ; 
a pretty, but comfortless, little fishing- 
town. 


101 


GENOA. 


neili Sauli, a noble Genoese, is an 
elegant piece of architecture; .and 
the magnificent bridge, leading to 
it, was erected by a son of the 
above-named nobleman. The 
Church contains a statue of S. 
Sebastiano, by Puget; another 
of the beatified Alessandro Sauli, 
by the same artist; and an inte¬ 
resting picture of S. Peter and S. 
John curing the Paralytic, by D. 
Piola. 

S. Amhrogio is adorned with 
three celebrated pictures, namely, 
the Assumption, by Guido — S. 
Ignatius exorcising a demoniac, 
and raising the dead, by Rubens 
—and the Circumcision, by the 
same master. 

S. Domenico contains a picture 
of the Circumcision, by Procac- 
cino ; and the ceiling of the Sanc¬ 
tuary is by Cappuccino. 

S. Filippo Neri is a handsome 
church ; the ceiling of which was 
painted by Franceschini; and in 
the Oratory is a statue of the Ma¬ 
donna, by Puget. 

S. Matteo, built by the Doria 
family, contains sepulchral monu¬ 
ments, by Mont-Orsoli; a high- 
altar of Florentine work • and, 
behind it, a much-admired Pietd. 

S. Giovanni in Vecchio is 
adorned with a picture, by Van- 
dye k. 

S. Francesco di Castelleto 
contains a celebrated picture, by 
Tintoretto ; together with bronze 
statues and hassi-rilievi, by Gio¬ 
vanni di Bologna. 

S. Stefano alle Porte contains 
a picture, representing the mar¬ 
tyrdom of S. Stephen, the upper 
part painted by Giulio Romano, 
the lower part by Raphael. 

The Residenza dei Dogi is a 
large unornamented modern build¬ 
ing, erected in consequence of a 
fire, which consumed the ancient 


[Ch. VI. 

edifice. The great hall is mag¬ 
nificent in point of size; and once 
contained statues, in marble, of 
persons eminent for their liberality 
to the public: but revolutionary 
frenzy destroyed these statues. 
The Arsenal, in this palace, con¬ 
tains the prow of an ancient Ro¬ 
man galley; its length being about 
three spans, and its greatest thick¬ 
ness two thirds of a foot: it was 
discovered in 1597, inconsequence 
of the harbour being cleaned. 
Here, likewise, is the armour of 
several Genoese Ladies, who joined 
a crusade to the Holy Land, in 
1301. 

The Palazzo-T)arazzo (Strada- 
Balbi) contains noble rooms splen¬ 
didly furnished, and a large collec¬ 
tion of pictures, among which are 
celebrated works of Vandyck and 
Rubens, and the Magdalene at our 
Saviour’s feet, by Paolo Veronese!! 

The University is a fine build¬ 
ing ; and contains, in its Vestibule, 
two Lions of marble, which are 
much admired. 

The Palazzo-Doria (Strada 
Nuova) is a magnificent edifice in 
point of architecture. 

1 he Palazzo-Rosso contains 
fine pictures; among which are 
three Portraits, by Vandyck—Ju¬ 
dith putting the head of Holofernes 
into a bag, by Paolo Veronese— 
an old Man reading, bv Spagno- 
letto—the Madonna, by Cappuc¬ 
cino the Adoration of the Shep¬ 
herds, by r Bassano—our Saviour 
in the garden of Olives, by the 
same Clorinda delivering’ the 
Christians, by Caravaggio—the 
resurrection of Lazarus, by the 
same Cleopatra, by Guercino— 
and several works, both in paint¬ 
ing and sculpture, by Parodi. 

The Palazzo-Brignole, oppo¬ 
site to the Palazzo-Rosso, con¬ 
tains fine pictures. 


GENOA—NICE. 


10 o 


Ch. VI.] 

The Palazzo-Serra boasts a 
saloon, deemed one of the most 
sumptuous apartments in Eu¬ 
rope. 

The Palazzo-Carega was built 
after the design of Buonaroti; 
as was the Palazzo-Pallavicino, at 
Zerbino. 

The great Hospital is a noble 
establishment for the Sick of all 
nations ; and likewise for Found¬ 
lings ; the boys remaining, till they 
are able to work ; the girls still 
longer. The number of sick re¬ 
ceived into this hospital, has fre¬ 
quently exceeded one thousand ; 
and the number of foundlings 
three thousands. 

The Hospital of Incurables 
likewise is a noble establishment. 

The Albergo (lei Poreri, per¬ 
haps the most magnificent Hospi¬ 
tal in Europe, stands upon a lofty 
eminence ; and was founded by a 
nobleman of the Brignoli-family, 
to serve as an asylum for upward 
of a thousand persons, from age 
and other causes, reduced to want. 
The Chapel is handsome, and 
contains a basso-rilievo, by Buo- 
naroti, of the Madonna contem¬ 
plating the dead body of our Sa¬ 
viour ! and here, likewise, is an 
Assumption, in marble, by Puget. 

The Theatre of S. Agostino is 
much admired, with respect to its 
architecture ; as, indeed, arc a 
considerable number of buildings, 
which I have not enumerated; 
but, though no city of Italy boasts 
so many splendid edifices as Genoa, 
though all these edifices are built 
of marble, and though the Strada- 
Nuova, the Strada-Novissima,and 
the Strada-Balbi, are strikingly 
magnificent, the narrowness of the 
other streets, and the want of spa- 


lancholy to the town in general: 
its environs, however, are exempt 
from this defect; and display a 
delightful union of grandeur and 
cheerfulness ; the whole road to 
Sestri, a distance of six miles, ex¬ 
hibiting one continued line of 
villas, nearly equal, in size and 
elegance, to the palaces within the 
city. 

Genoa contains good Hotels 11 ; 
and its population, including the 
inhabitants of San Pietro d’Arena, 
is supposed to amount to 80,000. 

An Italian proverb says of this 
city; “ that it has sea, without 
fish, land, without trees, and men, 
without faith:” the provisions, 
however, not excepting fish, are 
excellent; but the wine is bad, 
and the climate by no means a 
good one. The country, though 
(like Italy in general,) thinly 
wooded, is, in some parts, roman¬ 
tic and beautiful: but as to the 
people, they certainly vie in faith 
with their Ligurian ancestors. 

The nobles are ill-educated, 
and seldom fond of literature : 
they rarely inhabit the best apart¬ 
ments of their superb palaces; 
but are said to like a splendid 
table: though their chief gratifi¬ 
cation has always consisted in 
amassing wealth for the laudable 
purpose of expending it on public 
works, and public charities. 

The common people are active 
and industrious ; and the velvets, 
damasks, and artificial flowers of 
Genoa have long been celebrated. 

Hence, to Nice, there is a bridle- 
road, which traverses a delightful 
country ; and from Genoa to Fi¬ 
nale, and again from Ventimiglia 
to Nice, there is a carriage-road; 
but, as the inns are bad, we pre¬ 
ferred hiring a felucca with ten 


cions squares, gives an air of me- 

(u) L' Hotel d'Europe ; which is excellent; U Albergo di Londra ; 
fjd Croce di Multu ; and Le qu&ttri 


JOj 


MARITIME ALPS. 


oars, and pursuing - our excursion 
by sea v * * * * (x) . 

The first night we reached 
Oneglia, a small town occupied 
chiefly by fishermen ; and the se¬ 
cond night we arrived at Nice. 

This city is seated in a small 
plain, bounded, on the west, by 
the Var, anciently called the 
Varus , which divides it from 
Provence; on the south by the 
Mediterranean, which washes its 
walls; and on the north by that 
chain of Alps, called Maritime^, 
which seems designed by nature 
to protect Italy from the invasions 
of her Gallic Neighbours. The 
citadel of Mont-Albano overhangs 
the town; and the Paglion, a 
torrent which descends from the 
adjacent mountains, separates it 
from what is called the English 
quarter, and runs into the sea on 
the west. 

The situation of Nice is cheer¬ 
ful ; the walks and rides are 
pretty; the lodging-houses nu¬ 
merous, and tolerably convenient; 
the eatables good and plentiful; 
and the wine and oil excellent: 
but the near neighbourhood of 
the Alps, and the prevalence of 
that searching wind, called vent 
de bise, render the air frequently 
cold, and even frosty, during 
winter and spring ; while, in sum¬ 
mer, the heat is excessive w . 

From Nice we set out to cross 
the Maritime Alps to Turin, by a 
most excellent and wonderful road, 
constructed during the reign of 
Victor-Amadeus-Maria, King of 
Sardinia (who was seventeen years 
in completing it;) and lately altered 

( v ) The usual price for a ten-oared fe¬ 

lucca, from Genoa to Nice, is about ten 
sequins. 

\w) The principal Intis at Nice are, 

L'Hotel de York, Le Dauphin, and La 

Ponte. 

(x) This road, as constructed by Victor- 


[Ch. VI. 

and improved by the French; espe¬ 
cially between Nice and Scarena*. 

After driving about five miles 
on the banks of the Paglion, we 
.began to ascend the mountain of 
Scarena; reaching the village of 
that name in less than three hours. 
We then proceeded, for nearly 
two hours and a half, up a moun¬ 
tain composed of red, grey, and 
white marble, and, on arriving at 
its summit, were presented with a 
view of Sospello, lying at our 
feet, and apparently not half a 
mile distant; yet so lofty was the 
mountain we were upon, that we 
had nine miles to go ere we could 
reach Sospello. This village, built 
on the banks of the Paglion, and 
surrounded with Alps, contains 
two tolerable inns. Hence we 
proceeded up the mountain of 
Sospello, which, being loftier 
than Scarena, exhibited a road 
more wonderful than that we had 
already passed, winding through 
immense rocks of marble, some 
of which were blown up with 
gunpowder, in order to make 
room for carriages. Near Sos¬ 
pello stands an ancient Roman 
castle ; but, what seems extraor¬ 
dinary, the old Roman road over 
these Maritime Alps is no where 
discoverable. After ascending for 
three hours, we reached the sum¬ 
mit of the mountain ; and then 
descended, in less than one hour, 
to La Chiandola ; a romantic vil¬ 
lage, situated at the brink of a 
brawling torrent, and adorned by 
cascades gushing from jagged 
rocks of a stupendous height. We 
slept at La Chiandola; where the 

Amadeus, was always passable for carriages 
at certain seasons of the year, and not only 
passable but excellent: if I recollect right, 
the above named Prince was the first person 
who ever attempted making a carriage-road 
over the great Alps. 


MARITIME ALPS. 


107 


Ch. VI.] 

inn is tolerably good ; and next 
morning set out early for Tenda. 
To describe the road between 
this town and La Chiandola is 
impossible: neither do I think it 
in the power of imagination to 
picture such scenery as we beheld. 
Our ascent was gradual, by the 
side of the already-named torrent; 
which, from rushing impetuously 
over enormous masses of stone, 
forms itself into an endless variety 
of cascades: while the stupendous 
rocks, through which this road is 
pierced, from their immense 
height, grotesque shapes, and 
verdant clothing, added to the 
beautiful water-falls with which 
they are embellished, present one 
of the most awfully magnificent 
grottoes that the masterly hand of 
nature ever made. Through this 
grotto we travelled for a consi¬ 
derable number of miles, sur¬ 
rounded by mountains, whose 
summits the eye cannot reacli ; 
though sometimes a brilliant mass 
of snow, which we guessed to be 
the peak of an Alp, appeared 
hanging, as it were, in the sky; 
but clouds always rested upon, 
and eclipsed the middle-part. Sud¬ 
denly, however, we beheld, sus¬ 
pended in the air (for such really 
was its appearance,) a large for¬ 
tified Castle ; and, soon afterward, 
on turning a point, we discovered 
the town of Saorgio, built in the 
shape of an amphitheatre, and ap¬ 
parently poised between earth and 
heaven ; while the lower part ol 
the rocks exhibited such woods of 
chestnut as, to English Travel¬ 
lers, appear equally uncommon 
and beautiful. After this, we 
were continually presented with 
convents, hermitages, remains of 
castles, and old Roman causeys, 
till our arrival at Tenda; which 
is situated under an immense Alp 


(of the same name,) computed to 
be eight thousand feet in height; 
and over the summit of which lies 
the road. Tenda is a sombre 
looking town, resembling what 
Poetry would picture as the world’s 
end: for the cloud-capped moun¬ 
tain behind it seems to say, “ Thou 
shalt proceed no further.” It is 
prudent to pass the Col-di-Tenda 
before inid-day ; because, at that 
time, there generally rises a wind 
very inconvenient to Travellers. 
This passage, since the improve¬ 
ments made in the road by the 
French, seldom occupies above 
five hours ; though, formerly, it 
took up nearly double that time ; 
we, therefore, left Tenda at eight 
o'clock, that we might reach the 
summit of the ascent by eleven ; 
and this was easily accomplished. 
On first setting out we were pre¬ 
sented with picturesque prospects 
embellished by bold cascades. 
When we had proceeded about 
three parts up the mountain the 
air became chilly ; and we per¬ 
ceived, by the fog which enve¬ 
loped us, that we were passing 
through clouds ; these, on attain¬ 
ing the summit, we found our¬ 
selves considerably above ; and 
here the cold was intense. The 
top of this vast Alp exhibits a 
barren rock, whence Ave descried 
Mont-Viso, with other Alps still 
more lofty; and at our feet Li- 
inone, seated in a valley through 
which rushes a torrent formed by 
snow from the Col-di-Tenda. 
Limone contains a tolerable inn. 
Hence the road runs parallel with 
one of those streams which ferti¬ 
lize this wild part of Piedmont, 
till it enters the luxuriant plain in 
which stands Coni; a finely si¬ 
tuated town, Avhosc fortifications 
were once deemed impregnable. 
Here Ave slept at the post-house ; 


108 


TURIN. 


proceeding 1 , next day, to Savi- 
gliano, and struck by the change 
of scenery ; rich and tame cultiva¬ 
tion succeeding to the sublime and 
beautiful wildness of the Alps. 
Savigliano is a large town, with a 
tolerable inn. Hence we drove 
to Carignano, through one of the 
most fruitful valleys imaginable; 
and after having stopped to dine 
at the latter place, proceeded to 
Turin. 

This city, seated in a spacious 
plain loaded with mulberries, vines, 
and corn, and watered by the 
rivers Po and Dora, (the former 
of which was anciently called Bo- 
dinco, or bottomless), is approach¬ 
ed by four fine roads shaded with 
forest-trees; while the surround¬ 
ing hills are covered with hand¬ 
some edifices ; pre-eminent among 
which towers the magnificent 
church of La Superga. 

Turin was named Augusta 
Taurinorum, by Augustus, when 
he made it into a Roman colony; 
before which period it, was the 
capital of the Taurini, a Gallic 
tribe: the modern walls, or ram¬ 
parts, are about four miles round, 
and contain a population of SS,005 
persons: the citadel, a particu¬ 
larly fine fortress, which the 
French nearly destroyed, is now 
rebuilding. The streets, which 
are wide, straight, and clean, in¬ 
tersect each other at right angles ; 
so that on one particular spot, in 
the middle of the town, they may 
all be seen at once, issuing, like 
rays, from a common centre. The 
Strada del Po, the Strada-Nuova, 
and the Strada del Dora-grande, 
are very handsome ; so are the 
Piazza del Gastello, and the 
Piazza di S. Carlo ; each being 
adorned with porticos: and the 
Bridge thrown by the French, 
over the Po, is one of the most 


[Ch. VI. 

beautiful pieces of architecture of 
its kind in Europe. 

The regal Palace contains an 
equestrian statue of Amadeus i.; 
magnificent suites of apartments ; 
and a valuable collection of pic¬ 
tures ; among which is a portrait 
of Charles i. of England — the 
Children of Charles i., with a 
Dog 1 —and a Prince of the House 
of Carignano on horseback—all 
by Vandyek—Homer, represented 
as a blind Improvvisatore, by Mu¬ 
rillo—the prodigal Son, by Guer- 
cino—and Cattle, by Paul Potter. 

The Cathedral merits notice, 
on account of one of its Chapels, 
called La Capped a del S. Suda- 
rio, built after the designs of 
Guarini. 

The Chiesa di S. Filippo Neri 
is a fine edifice in point of archi¬ 
tecture, built after the designs of 
Giuvara, Torinese ; and contains 
a superb high-altar and baldac- 
chino. 

The Chiesa di S. Christina, 
contains a statue of S. Teresa, 
deemed the chef-d'oeuvre of Le 
Gros. 

The Teatro di Carignano is 
handsome ; and the gran Teatro 
is one of the largest and most 
beautiful buildings of its kind 
existing. 

The University contains a fine 
statue of Cupid, supposed to be 
Grecian sculpture—a very va¬ 
luable ancient mosaic pavement— 
the celebrated Isiac Table, found 
at Mantua, and one of the most 
precious monuments extant of 
Egyptian antiquity ! — together 
with sacrificial Vases—Lamps— 
Medals, fyc. 

The public Garden, and the 
Ramparts, are delightful prome¬ 
nades ; and were it not for a want 
of correctness and simplicity in 
the structure and decorations of 


109 


ASTI—ALESSANDRIA. 


Ch. VI.] 

the principal edifices, Turin would 
he one of the most beautiful towns 
in Europe. 

Here are good Hotelsy; good 
shops, (where the manufactures 
of the country, namely, velvets, 
silks, silk stocking’s, tapestry, por¬ 
celain, chamois-leather-gloves, 
are sold ;) a good market for eat¬ 
ables, and g*ood wine: but the 
fog-s which invariably prevail, dur¬ 
ing- autumn and winter, make the 
climate, at those seasons, un¬ 
wholesome : and the foul and 
noxious water, too frequently 
found in the wells and reservoirs 
of this city, often proves even a 
greater evil than the fogs: there 
is, however, before the Po-Gate, 
near the Capuchin-convent, a well 
of excellent water 2 . 

' The objects best worth notice 
in the environs of Turin are ; 
Valentino , where there is a public 
Garden— La Villa della Re - 
ginct, which commands a fine view 
— Camaldoli, the road to which 
is very romantic— La Superga, 
(five miles distant from the city,) 
a magnificent church, where rest 
the ashes of the Sardinian Kings ; 
and La Veneria, a royal Villa, 
containing good paintings, and a 
fine orangery. 

The ruins of the ancient town 
of Industria are not far distant 
from Turin. 

Wishing to pass the Bocchetta*, 
one of the loftiest mountains of 
the Apennine, we quitted Turin 
by the magnificent new Bridge al- 

(y) L'Albergo dell' Univcrso—L’Eu¬ 
rope !— La Buona Donna, &c. 

(z) Travellers, before they quit Turin, 
are obliged to have their passports exa¬ 
mined and signed at the Police Office ; and 
likewise by the Austrian ambassador, if 
they design gAng beyond the Sardinian 
territories. For the latter signature four 
francs and a half, per passport, are de¬ 
manded. 

(«) Since I took this journey the new 


ready mentioned; and travelled 
on a good and pleasant road, em¬ 
bellished with fine views of the 
Po and the Alps, to Asti; a large 
town, seated amidst vineyards 
which produce the best wine in 
Piedmont. 

Asti, supposed to contain above 
ten thousand inhabitants, is en¬ 
circled with extensive walls in a 
ruinous condition : and of the 
hundred towers, for which it once 
was famous, scarce thirty remain ; 
and even these seem nodding to 
their fall. The people here are 
poor, because inclined to idleness ; 
and the town, generally speaking, 
has a sombre aspect, that quarter 
excepted where the nobility re¬ 
side, and where the buildings are 
handsome. Asti boasts the honour 
of containing the paternal man¬ 
sion of the Conte Vittorio Alfieri, 
the greatest,' and almost the only 
distinguished tragic Poet modern 
Italy ever produced. The Duomo , 
here, has been lately erected, and 
merits notice; as do the Churches 
of S. Sccondo, and the Madonna 
della Consolata, and likewise 
that of S. Bartolommeo dei Be- 
nedettini , on the outside of the 
walls b . 

On quitting Asti we crossed the 
Stironne, traversed a beautiful 
vale richly clothed with grain; 
and after having passed the village 
of Annone, were presented with 
a particularly fine view of the 
Po. We then passed Felizzano 
and Solera; and approached the 

Route of Val di Scrivia lias been opened; 
a happy circumstance for Travellers; as 
the new Road is excellent, and in conse¬ 
quence of its low situation exempt from 
those dangerous storms which frequently 
visit the Bocchetta : beside which, the old 
road is so rough that no carriage, not par¬ 
ticularly strong, can pass over it without 
injury. 

(6) Asti contains two very tolerable inns, 
namely, LaRosa rossa , and 11 Leone d’oro. 


110 


ALESSANDRIA, fyc. 


Fortress of Alessandria throng'll 
a road in some places sandy, but 
otherwise good. 

Alessandria, seated in the midst 
of an extensive plain, and watered 
by the Tanaro, is a handsome 
town, particularly celebrated for 
the sieges it has sustained, for 
the strength of its citadel, per¬ 
haps the finest in Europe, and 
for a magnificent Bridge covered 
from end to end, and equally re¬ 
markable for its length, height, 
and solidity. The Sluices of the 
Tanaro merit notice ; the Piazza 
d’Armi is spacious ; and the regal 
Palace, the Governor's House, 
the Churches of S. Alessandro, 
and S. Lorenzo, the new Theatre, 
and the Ramparts, are usually vi¬ 
sited by travellers. This town, 
(which contains about eighteen 
thousand inhabitants and two 
Hotels 0 ,) was anciently called 
Alexandria Statelliorum ; but 
has, in modern days, acquired 
the ludicrous appellation of Ales¬ 
sandria della Paglia ; partly 
owing to a fable, importing 
that the Emperors of Germany 
were in former times crowned 
here, with a straw diadem ; and 
partly because the inhabitants, 
being destitute of wood, are sup¬ 
posed to bake their white bread 
with straw. 

On quitting Alessandria, we 
crossed the Tanaro, and imme¬ 
diately re-entered the above-named 
plain ; called, on this side, that 
of Marengo ; and famous for the 
decisive victory gained here, by 
Napoleon, over the Austrians. No 
ground can be better calculated for 
the strife of armies than this 
plain ; which is not only cxten- 

(c) L’Albergo Reale vecchio A' Italia; 
and L’Albcrgo nuovo d’ It alia; the former 
excellent. 


[Ch. VI. 

sive but flat; and equally devoid 
of trees and fences ; though either 
in consequence of judicious culti¬ 
vation, or the quantity of human 
blood with which the soil has been 
fertilized, it bears abundance of 
fine corn. A quarter of a league 
distant from Alessandria we cross¬ 
ed the Bormida, a large and ra¬ 
pid torrent; and, half a league 
further on, passed the hamlet of 
Marengo. One public-house on 
this plain is still called The Torre 
di Marengo, and another, Th eAl- 
hergo di lunga fama; but the 
column, surmounted by an eagle, 
and placed on the spot where 
Desaix fell, is now to be seen no 
more. 

At Marengo we quitted the 
route which leads to Parma ; and 
proceeded through a good, though, 
in some parts, a narrow road, to 
Novi ; seeing, by the way, the 
Domenican Abbadia del Bosco, 
adorned with a few good paint¬ 
ings, and some sculpture ; the lat¬ 
ter by Buonaroti. 

Novi, placed among vineyards 
at the base of the Apennine, con¬ 
tains six thousand inhabitants, 
several magnificent houses, which 
belong to rich Genovesi, who 
spend the autumn here ; and two 
comfortable inns d ; it is, there¬ 
fore, the best sleeping-place be¬ 
tween Turin and Genoa, both on 
account of the last-named cir¬ 
cumstance, and likewise from 
being* situated about midway. 
One tower of the old Castle of 
Novi alone remains, standing on 
an eminence, and remarkable for 
its height. 

After driving through the vine¬ 
yards, orchards, and chestnut- 

(d) L’Albergo Reale in Via-Ghirarden- 
ghi, and La Posta, beyond the town, on 
the way to Genoa. 


in 


THE BOCCHETTA. 


('h. VI.] 

groves, near Novi, we penetrated 
into the heart of the Apennine, 
by a road somewhat resembling- a 
saw ; traversing- ancient water¬ 
courses and narrow defiles to 
Gavi, a town which contains one 
thousand six hundred inhabitants 
and a g-ood hotel. The castle 
here is proudly seated on a rock, 
for the defence of the pass: and, 
according- to report, was never 
taken. Voltaggio,the next town, 
and where the present passage of 
the Bocchetta commences, is 
nearly equal in population to 
Gavi; and contains two good 
inns. Hence the road passes 
through a defile, sometimes sur¬ 
rounded with chestnut-woods, at 
others exhibiting bad pasturages 
bordered by the Lemmo, and ho¬ 
vels the very picture of wretched¬ 
ness; though erected on blocks 
of beautiful and costly marble, 
with which this part of the Apen¬ 
nine abounds. The women who 
inhabit these hovels, are of low 
stature, with thick legs, broad 
feet, large throats, and frequently 
goitrous swellings: the children 
look unhealthy, and seem to be 
wholly occupied by watching pigs 
and goats, and following mules 
and carriages, to collect dung for 
manure: the food of these poor 
mountaineers is chestnut-bread, 
hog’s-lard, and snow-water: and 
when the chestnuts fail, famine 
ensues. As we advanced toward 
the Col, we found the hovels 
lessen in number; and at length 
saw no vestige of any habitation 
except a guard-house on an iso¬ 
lated rock, where, during the pe¬ 
riod when this passage was in¬ 
fested by banditti, soldiers were 

(e ) Between Turin and Genoa, a car¬ 
riage with two places and four wheels goes, 
generally speaking, with two horses only, 
according to the tariff: but the post-rnas- 
ters often put on three horses; though tra- 


stationed to protect travellers. 
On gaining the summit of the 
Bocchetta we were presented with 
a view of the beautiful valley of 
Polcevera, terminated by the city 
of Genoa and the Mediterranean 
Sea: and the rich cultivation ex¬ 
hibited in this valley, by the per¬ 
severing industry of the Geno- 
vesi, produces a most delightful 
contrast to the savage and barren 
aspect of the northern side of 
the Apennine. The descent for 
two leagues to Campo-Marone is, 
in some places, very rapid ; but 
thence to Genoa the road con¬ 
structed by a Doge of the Cam- 
biaso family is excellent: it lies 
on the left bank of the Polcevera, 
amidst villas, villages, orange and 
olive gardens, cypresses, and that 
most beautiful of all Italian trees, 
the round-topped maritime stone 
pine, at length entering the city 
by the magnificent Faubourg of 
San Pietro d’Arena e . 

Having procured a bill of health 
at Genoa, which is always neces¬ 
sary on quitting this town by sea, 
we again embarked in a felucca ; 
and were fortunate enough, on the 
second evening of our voyage, to 
reach the harbour of Leghorn f . 
The island of Gorgona, and the 
rock, called Meloria, are both situ¬ 
ated on the right side of the en¬ 
trance into this fine harbour, which 
is divided into two parts, that fur¬ 
thest from the shore being de¬ 
fended against the violence of the 
sea by a pier ; though large ves¬ 
sels anchor in the roads, about 
two miles from the pier-head. The 
Light-house is built upon an iso¬ 
lated rock in the open sea. 

Leghorn, in Italian Livorno, the 

vellers do not pay any thing extra in con¬ 
sequence. 

(/) We paid for our felucca twelve se¬ 
quins. 


112 


LEGHORN—LUCCA. 


[Ch. Vf. 


nurse-child of the House of Medi- 
cis, called by the ancients, Libur- 
nus Port us, and formerly subject 
to Genoa, was the first free port 
established in the Mediterranean: 
and this political establishment, 
the work of Cosimo i., who ex¬ 
changed the episcopal city of Sar- 
zano for the then unimportant vil¬ 
lage of Leghorn, soon rendered 
the latter a place of great conse¬ 
quence: and by cutting several 
canals, and encouraging cultiva¬ 
tion, he, in some measure, de¬ 
stroyed the noxious vapours which 
naturally proceeded from a loose and 
marshy soil. Leghorn, to persons 
unskilled in the art of war, seems 
strongly fortified: but various cir¬ 
cumstances, I am told, would pre¬ 
vent it from being tenable long, 
whether attacked by land or sea. 
This city is two miles in circum¬ 
ference, and contains 60,000 in¬ 
habitants, 20,000 of whom are 
said to be Jews : its ramparts are 
handsome ; and the high-street, 
from its breadth and straightness, 
from the richness of its shops, and, 
still more, from the motley crowd 
of all nations with which it is con¬ 
stantly filled, presents a picture 
equally singular and pleasing. 
The great square is spacious ; and 
the Duo mo is a noble edifice, de¬ 
signed by Vasari: this Church— 
the Jews' Synagogue, (one of the 
finest in Europe)— the Church of 
the united Greeks—the Monte, or 
Bank — Micali's Shop—the Co¬ 
ral Manufacture — the great 
Printing-House — the Opera- 
Ho use—tile four Slaves in bronze, 
by Pietro Tacca, chained to the 
pedestal of the statue of Ferdi- 
ltando i., which stands in the Dock¬ 
yard, and was done by Giovanni 

(g) The Albergo di S. Marco, kept by 
Thomson, and a good inn— The Croce d’ora 
—and the Croce di Malta. 

Xh) Here there is an Austrian Custom- 


del Opera — the Lazzaretti — 
the Campo-Santo — the English 
Burial-ground—the new Aque¬ 
duct, not yet completed, which is 
to bring wholesome water to the 
city from the mountains of Colog- 
nole (twelve miles distant)—and 
the Church of the Madonna di 
Montenero, are the objects best 
worth notice in Leghorn and its 
environs. Here are several inns8 : 
and the English Factory have a 
Protestant Chapel. From Leg¬ 
horn wc proceeded, by land, 
through part of the forest of Arno, 
to Pisa, a distance of fourteen 
Tuscan miles; though persons 
who prefer water-carriage may go 
by the Canal, from the one city to 
the other. At Pisa we directed 
our course to Lucca, traversing an 
excellent road h . 

Lucca, called L'Industriosa, is 
beautifully situated, about twelve 
Tuscan’miles from Pisa, in a luxu¬ 
riant valley, encircled by the Apen- 
nine, and watered by the Serchio: 
it is defended by eleven bastions of 
brick, and ramparts, which, from 
being planted with forest-trees, 
give this little city the appearance 
of a fortified wood with a watch- 
tower in its centre: the edifice 
which resembles the latter being 
the cathedral. The Ramparts are 
three miles in circumference • and 
form a delightful promenade, either 
on foot or in a carriage. Previous 
to the French revolution the word 
“ Libertas" was inscribed on the 
Pisa-gate: this inscription, how¬ 
ever, no longer exists: but, ne¬ 
vertheless, it is impossible to enter 
Lucca without feeling high respect 
tor a town which, even during the 
plenitude of Roman despotism, 
maintained its own laws, and 

house, at which I was called upon to pay 
four pauls for a four-wheeled carriage with 
two horses. 


Ch. VI.] 

some degree of liberty; and which, 
since that period till very recently, 
always continued free. The ter¬ 
ritory contains about four hundred 
square miles, and about 120,000 
people. Caesar wintered at Lucca 
after his third campaign in Gaul: 
and, according to Appian of Alex¬ 
andria, all the magistrates of 
Rome came to visit him ; insomuch 
that two hundred Roman Senators 
were seen before his door at the 
same moment: which circumstance 
proves Lucca to have been, at that 
period, a large city. 

The streets are broad, well- 
paved, and clean ; but irregular. 

The Cathedral, erected in 1070, 
though unpromising without, is a 
fine Gothic building within ; and 
contains, on the right of the great 
door, the tomb of Adalbert, sur- 
narned “ The Rich,” who lived in 
the beginning of the tenth cen¬ 
tury ; and was, according to Mu- 
ratori, the Progenitor of the 
Princes of Este, and the House 
of Brunswick Hanover, now So¬ 
vereigns of Great Britain. The 
famous Countess Matilda was a 
descendant from the above-named 
Adalbert; and this Princess, the 
daughter of a Duke of Lucca, 
who died in 1052, reigned over 
Tuscany, Lombardy, and Ligu¬ 
ria, maintaining desperate wars,for 
thirty successive years, against 
the Schismatics and Anti-Popes ; 
till, at length, she drove the Em¬ 
peror, Henry iv., out of Italy, 
and restored to the Church its 
ancient possessions. But to re¬ 
turn to the Cathedral: this edifice 
is adorned with paintings, by Coli 
and Sancasciani, Lucchesi; a pic¬ 
ture, by Zuccari; another, by 
Tintoretto ; statues of the four 
Evangelists, byFoncelli; a cele¬ 
brated crucifix, called the Voto 
Santo; fine painted glass win¬ 


113 

dows, and a beautiful inlaid marble 
pavement. 

A. Maria, called La Chiesa 
dell' Umiltci, contains a good pic¬ 
ture, by Titian. 

The Chiesa di S. Ponziano 
contains two good paintings, by 
Pietro Lombardo. 

The Palazzo Publico, built by 
Ammannato and Filippo Giuvara, 
is embellished with the works of 
Luca Giordano, Albert Durer, 
Guercino, fyc. —and in the Ar¬ 
moury are several ancient helmets, 
the smallest of which our courier, 
an athletic man, attempted to put 
on fiis head ; but found himself 
scarcely able to lift it—so much is 
human strength degenerated! 

Remains of the ancient Amphi¬ 
theatre are discoverable on the 
spot called Prigioni vecchie. 

The modern Theatre is small, 
but pretty. 

The police of Lucca has long 
been famed for its excellence. The 
upper ranks of people are opulent, 
learned, and well-inclined; the 
mechanics (instructed by their late 
Sovereign, the Princess Elise), 
display great taste and expertness 
in making household furniture; 
the lower ranks of people possess 
more integrity of character, with 
a stronger sense of religion, than 
is common now, either in Roman 
Catholic or Protestant countries ; 
and the peasants are the most in¬ 
dustrious and skilful husbandmen 
of southern Italy. 

Lucca contains a Seminary , 
founded by the Princess Elise, for 
the education of an hundred young 
ladies, beside children of humble 
birth: and this Princess had like¬ 
wise taken measures to establish 
an Institute, for the encourage¬ 
ment of arts and sciences, when 
she was called upon to relinquish 
her throne. 


LUCCA. 


t 


114 


ROAD TO THE RAGNI DI LUCCA. [Ch. VI. 


The Pantera is the best inn at 
Lucca. 

Travellers who enter this city 
with post-horses are compelled to 
quit it in the same manner. 

The surrounding' country is rich 
in villas ; and that called Marlia, 
on the way to the Baths of Lucca, 
particularly merits notice ; as it 
was built by the Princess Elise, is 
furnished with peculiar elegance, 
and stands in a beautiful garden 1 . 
The road from Lucca to this villa, 
a distance of between four and five 
miles, is excellent; and hence to 
the Bagni - caldi, (about eight 
miles,) equally good: it winds al¬ 
most constantly by the side of the 
Serchio ; and is cut through rocks 
clothed with olives and chestnuts, 
and adorned with convents, villas, 
and cottages. Nothing can be 
more romantic than this drive; 
and, on the way, are three extra¬ 
ordinary bridges ; the first con¬ 
sisting of two immense arches, not 
in a straight line with each other, 
but forming, in the centre, a con¬ 
siderable angle ; neither do these 
arches support a level road: on 
the contrary you ascend one arch 
and descend it again ; you then 
come to an angle of flat ground ; 
after which you ascend the other 
arch, and descend that, till you 
reach a smaller arch, which brings 
you to the opposite shore of the 
Serchio. The height of this bridge 
we could not precisely ascertain; 
but, judging from the eye, it is 
nearly equal to that of Augustus 
at Narni. The second bridge is 

(i) The Empress Maria Louisa visited 
this Villa, not many years since ; slept here, 
and ordered every thing to be in readiness 
for her departure at four o’clock the next 
morning: she, however, lingered in the 
Marlia-gallery, (apparently lost in thought,) 
till ten o’clock; and then, with great re¬ 
luctance, went away. Her Son’s bust is 
at Marlin ; and, if like him, he must have 


similar to the first; but the third, 
which consists of only one large 
arch, is by far the loftiest; and, 
according to oral tradition, was 
the work of the Devil; who 
seems to have been, in the opinion 
of the Italians, a great architect; 
for every extraordinary building is 
attributed to him. Other accounts, 
however, say, these bridges were 
erected by the Countess Matilda : 
and one of the postilions who 
drove us to the Bagni, told me, 
they were built soon after the year 
10(30—an extraordinary circum¬ 
stance that he should have been so 
accurate a chronologist!—but the 
common people of Italy are well- 
informed respecting the history of 
their country ; and, moreover, so 
fond of its poets as frequently to 
know their works by heart. 

The Bagni-caldi di Lucca are 
situated on the side of a romantic 
and picturesque mountain, thickly 
clothed with chestnut - woods ; 
where, during summer, the walks 
are delightful. The Bagni della 
Villa are in the plain, near the 
banks of the Lima ; and the late 
Sovereign, by making a fine road 
to these Baths, and inducing her 
own family to frequent them, has 
converted a secluded village into 
a gay public place. At the Bagni- 
caldi there is one lodging-house 
which accommodates from twelve 
to fourteen families k ; another 
which accommodates three fami¬ 
lies 1 ; several small lodgings ; a 
coffee-house, and a cassino ; 
where, during the season, there 

a countenance replete with sense and ani¬ 
mation, and bearing a strong resemblance 
to his Father. 

(k) In this house which belongs to the 
Abate Lena, Families may either have 
kitchens to themselves, or employ the Trai- 
teur who resides under the same roof. 

(0 This house belongs to an excellent 
Traiteur, called Johachino ; who furnishes 


115 


BAGNI DI LUCCA. 


Ch. VI.] 

is a ball every Sunday night. 
These baths, therefore, to persons 
very fond of society, must be an 
eligible summer situation. Atthe 
Bagni della Villa there are several 
good lodging-houses; some of 
which accommodate two or three 
families, others only one: and 
here the mother of the Princess 
Elise used to reside 111 . At the 
Ponte-Seraglio, near the Bagni- 
caldi, there are lodging-houses ; 
but these, generally speaking, are 
inhabited by persons of the se¬ 
cond rank. 

The usual Promenade here is 
between the Bagni della Villa and 
the Ponte-Seraglio, on a dusty 
road; while a delightful drive, 
made by the Government, under 
the wood on the opposite side of 
the river, is totally neglected. 

The season commences with 
July and ends with August; 
though June and September are 
months better calculated for the 
examination of this beautiful spot, 
which is one of the coolest sum¬ 
mer abodes of southern Italy. 

Provisions here are not exor¬ 
bitant in price, even during the 
season: but good table-wine and 
good butchers’ meat, except veal, 
are difficult to procure ; and fruit, 
except Alpine strawberries, cher¬ 
ries, and wild raspberries, is nei¬ 
ther very fine nor very plentiful. 

Lovers of botany should visit, 
during the month of June, the 
Prato Fiorito, near these Baths; 
which is, at the above-named 

the tables of his Lodgers : his third lloor, 
which is the best, was let in 1817 for thirty 
sequins a month ; and his other floors for 
eighteen or twenty sequins each. 

( m> The best apartment in the house of 
the Signora Lena, at the Bagni della Villa, 
was let in 1817 for thirty sequins a month: 
the first floor in the house of Sig. G. B. del 
Chiappa for twenty-eight sequins a month ; 
and the second floor for eighteen or twenty 
sequins. Casa - Ambrogio, Casa - Nobile, 


time, enamelled with a larger 
number and a greater variety of 
flowers than fall to the share, 
perhaps, of any other spot exist¬ 
ing 11 . The best way of seeing 
this garden of Flora is to set out 
at an early hour, going by Col- 
trone, and returning by Monte- 
Villa, near which several of the 
chestnut-trees are of so extraor¬ 
dinary a size that they would be 
fit subjects for landscape-painters 
to study. The modes of con¬ 
veyance to the Prato Fiorito are 
various ; ponies and donkies may 
be easily procured: but people, in 
general, prefer being carried by 
Portentini ; of whom there is a 
considerable number at the Baths: 
three men are requisite for each 
chair ; and their usual pay is five 
pauls a man, with bread, common 
wine, and cheese of the country 
for dinner, wherever the party 
like to stop ; which is generally 
at the foot of the Prato Fiorito ; 
there being, in this place, a spring 
of good water. 

Another pleasant excursion 
may be made in the same manner, 
from the Bagni della Villa to 
Ponte Nero: the best way of 
going is to cross the Lima on the 
Ponte Nuovo, keeping on the far 
side of the river the whole way; 
and then returning by Palleggio ; 
as that village, together with the 
hamlets of Cocciglia and Cosoli 
di Val di Lima, form a beautiful 
and most romantic prospect. The 
party should dine near this spot; 

Casa-Bonvisi, and Cass-Rossi, are good 
lodging-houses ; the last is that in which the 
Mother of the late Sovereign formerly 
lived. 

( n) Tradition reports that, on this emi¬ 
nence, there once stood a temple dedicated 
to iEsculapius; whose Priests are sup¬ 
posed to have cultivated round the edifice a 
large number of flowers ; which chance 
has perpetuated to the present day. 

i 2 


BAGNI DI LUCCA. 


116 


[Ch. VI. 


and then go back to the Baths 



by the Palleggio side of the 
river, as far as the wooden bridge 


of La Fabbrica ; where they part of the Apennine is beau- 
should cross to the other side, tiful: at the commencement pf 
A guide well acquainted with each ascent vines are dressed on 
the country is requisite for this terraces cut in the side of the hill; 
excursion, and may be procured wheat being sown between every 


two rows of vines: above these 


at the Baths. 


Loiano, likewise, from its sin- there frequently is an olive gar- 
gular situation is worth visiting. den ; and on the more elevated 
The peasantry of these moun- parts of the hill are chestnuts, 
tains are an honest and indus- Mountains are sold here not by 
trious people: the little land they measurement, but from a calcu- 
possess is cultivated with the ut- lation respecting the number of 
most care, and in the neatest sacks of chestnuts they usually 
manner; but does not yield suf- produce. The landlord receives 
ficient food for the numerous in- two-thirds of the chestnuts which 
habitants of this part of the are collected ; and half of the 
Duchy of Lucca ; who are, there- other crops. The richer grounds 
fore compelled, like many other in the plain produce hemp, from 
natives of the Apennine, to live which much coarse cloth, and 
chiefly on bread made of chest- some of a finer sort, is manufac- 
nuts; and when these fail, the tured; and every peasant has a 
consequence is dreadful; as was stock of silk-wormsP. Wheat is 
exemplified lately, when hundreds usually cut about Midsummer ; 
perished from want ; while those and immediately carried off the 
who survived had no sustenance fields ; which are, on the same 
but beans boiled with grass, and day, sown with Indian corn ; and 
herbs collected on the mountains: this comes up in a week, and is fit 
and yet there was no rioting, no to be cut in October. In many 
murmuring, no complaint — the places rows of Indian corn and 
famishing peasants prayed to French beans, called scarlet run- 
Heaven for relief, and awaited ners, are planted alternately; the 
with resignation the approach of former serving as a support to the 
better days. The vices „ and latterq. 

crimes which disgrace more opu- On our return from the Baths 
lent countries are little known of Lucca, we noticed, between 
amongst these innocent peasants, that romantic spot and the citv, 

( O) The Rector of the parish in which wives and daughters of the farmers are 

the Bagni di Lucca are situated, told a on festival days, handsomely dressed when 
friend of mine, that, after a residence of they go to church, or elsewhere ■ but this 
twenty years among his parishioners, who finery is laid by, the moment they return 
amount to above eight hundred people, he home. J 

had never heard of the commission of one (?) It was not in my power to collect 
theft, neither had he heard of more than much information relative to the Baths of 
three children born out of wedlock. Lucca; because my residence there was 

( P ) The female peasants often manufac- short: but from a friend, who spent seve 
facture a silk, for their own wear, from the ral months in that vicinity, and is more- 
bags of those silk-worms which are allowed over, a judicious and accurate observer I 
to work their way out, in order to produce received many of the particulars 1 have in 
eggs for the ensuing year. The costume of consequence, been enabled to detail 

the inferior peasants is neat; and the 


PISTOJA. 


117 


Ch. VI.] 

several villas, with gardens pos¬ 
sessing shady walks; a comfort 
seldom found in southern Italy: 
and, on inquiry, I learnt, that the 
owners of these habitations were 
usually glad to let them to re¬ 
spectable tenants, from May till 
the end of September. 

Having traversed the beautiful 
and highly-cultivated plain of 
Lucca, adorned with forest trees, 
from which hang festoons of vines 
in every direction, we approached 
Pescia, a small episcopal city at 
the base of the Apennine, and 
peculiarly situated amidst moun¬ 
tains cultivated to their summits, 
and covered with villages, churches, 
and castles: the episcopal palace 
here looks handsome ; and near 
this town are the baths of Monte- 
Catini. 

The road, to the end of the 
Lucchese territories, is excellent; 
but thence to Pistoja paved, and 
not well kept. The country be¬ 
tween Pescia and Pistoja is bold 
and romantic ; and the latter city 
finely placed on the side of the 
Apennine, near the river Om- 
brone, contains particularly wide, 
straight, and well-paved streets ; 
palaces, which announce magni¬ 
ficence ; and a venerable Gothic 
Cathedral: but the city looks too 
large for its inhabitants (said to 
be only 10,000), and therefore has 
a gloomy appearance. It was 
famous among the ancients for the 
defeat of Catiline ; and, in mo¬ 
dern times, the factions of the 
Guelphs and Ghibellines have ren¬ 
dered it no less remarkable. The 
situation of Pistoja is cool; the 
air healthy; the country fruitful; 
and the provisions are cheap and 
good. 

The Cathedral contains a mo¬ 
nument erected to the memory of 
Cardinal Fertoguerra, begun by 


Andrea Verrochio, and finished 
by Lorengetti — over the high 
altar is an ascension, by Bron¬ 
zino ; and on the walls seve- 
veral historical passages of scrip¬ 
ture are represented in basso-ri- 
lievo. The famous Civilian Cino 
is interred in this church, and his 
memory perpetuated by two in¬ 
scriptions, over which are bassi- 
rilievi by Andrea, Pisano. 

The Baptistery, which stands 
in the area before the church, is 
spacious, and was used, in the 
first ages of Christianity, for bap¬ 
tizing proselytes. 

The Chiesa di S. Francesco di 
Sala contains seven paintings, by 
Andrea del Sarto. 

The Chiesa di S.Prospero con¬ 
tains a fine Library in the ante¬ 
room, to which are bassi-rilievi, 
by Cornaquioi. 

The Chiesa dell' TJmilta is ad¬ 
mired for its architecture and cu¬ 
pola, by Vasari. 

The Chiesa della Spirito Santo 
possesses an excellent organ. 

The Episcopal Palace contains 
a statue of Leo xi. 

The modern College and Se¬ 
minary merit notice. 

Good organs, cannon, and mus¬ 
kets, are made at Pistoja. The 
best inn (a very bad one) is the 
post-house. 

From Pistoja we proceeded to 
Prato and Florence ; leaving, to 
the right, the royal Villa of Pog- 
gio-a-Cajano, whose foundations 
were laid by Leo x.: and this 
villa merits notice, from its fine 
situation, and because it is embel¬ 
lished with the works of Andrea 
del Sarto. 

The country between Pistoja 
and Florence may, with truth, be 
called the richest and best culti¬ 
vated garden in Tuscany: and the 
lofty liedges of vines climbing up 


118 

forest trees, and forming- them¬ 
selves into magnificent festoons on 
each side of the road, present the 
appearance of an immensely ex- 


[Ch. VI. 

tensive g-allery, decorated for a 
ball. 

The road from Pistoja to Flo¬ 
rence is good. 


PISTOJA. 


CHAPTER VII. 


SIENA AND ROME. 


Journey from Florence to Rome through Siena—Description of the last-named city and 
its Environs—lladicofani—Viterbo—Tomb of C. V. Marianus—Ponte-Molle—Naso- 
nian Sepulchre—Muro Torto—Porta del Popolo—Rome—MaP aria—Climate—Water 
conveyed daily to the ancient city—Size and population of ditto—Size of the modern 
city—Society—Excavations—Foro-Romano—Colosseo—Arco di Costantino—Chiesa di 
S. Teodoro—Arco di Settimio Severo in Velabro—Chiesa di S. Georgio in Velabro — 
Arco di Giano Quadrifronte—Lake of Juturna—Cloaca Maxima —House called that of 
Pilate—Chiesa di S. Maria in Cosmedin—Tempio di Vesta—Tempio di Fortuna Virilis 
—Palazzo de’ Cesari—Circus Maximus—Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul Monte-C'elio—Terme 
di Tito—Sette Sale—Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte—di S. Pietro in Vincoli—di S. 
Maria della Navicella—di S. Stefano Rotondo—Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo— 
Obelisk of theTrinitade’ Monti—Villa Medici—Statius and Obelisk of Monte-Cavallo 

— Chiesa di S. Bernardo—di S. Maria degli Angeli—The Pope’s Oil-Cellar—Obelisk of 
S. Maria Maggiore—Column—Basilica—Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Laterano—Battis- 
terio di Costantino — Basilica di S. Giovanni in Laterano—ScalaSmta—Tiiclinium— 
Amphitheatre Castrense—Basilica di S. Croce in Gerusalemme—Temple called ihat of 
Venus and Cupid—Claudian Aqueduct—Chiesa di S. Bibiana— Tempio di Minerva- 
Medica—Arco di Gallieno*—Remains of Aqueducts—Chiesa di S. Prassede—Campido- 
glio—Tarpeian Rock—Chiesa di S. Maria d’Araceli—di S. Pietro in Carcere—Palazzo 
del Senatore—Palazzo de' Conservatori—Museo Capitolino—Tempio di Pallade—Tem¬ 
pio e Foro di Nerva—Foro e Colonna Trajana—Dogana Pontitica—Obelisk of Monte- 
Citorio—Colonna Antonina—Mausoleo d’Augusto—Campo Matzo—Mansoleo-Adriano 
—Tempio del Sole—Baths of Constantine—Obelisk of S. Mariasopra Minerva—Chiesa 
di S. Maria sopra Minerva—Casanatense Library—Pantheon—Bagni d’Agrippa— 
Piazza-Navona—Chiesa di S. Aunese—Teatro di Marcello—Prison of Ihe Decemviri— 
Portico d’Octavia—Tempio d’Esculapio—Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Trastevere—Basilica 
di S. Maria in Trastevere—Fountain— Chiese di S. Prisca- di S. Sabina—di S.AIessio 

— Monte-Testaccio—Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio—Terme di Caracalla—Sepolcro de’Sci- 
pioni—Porta di S. Sebastiano alle Catacombe—Cerchio di Caracalla—Sepolcro di Ce¬ 
cilia Metella—Public Ustrina—Scene of combat between the Horatii and Curiatii— 
Basilica di S. Paolo—Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre Fontane—Excavations—Chiesa di S. 
Urbano alia Caffarella—Fontana della Dea Egeria—Tempio di Redicolo—Porta-Pia; 
Chiesa di S. Agnese—Chiesa di S. Costanza—Hippodrome—Villa Faonte— Ponte La- 
mentauo—Tomb of Menenius Agrippa—Mons Sacer—Porta di S. Lorenzo; Basilica di 
S. Lorenzo—Porta Maggiore; ancient Temples at the Tor de’ Schiavi—Porta S. Gio¬ 
vanni— Aqueducts—'Temple of Fortunae Mulcebris—Farm called Roma Vecchia—Gates 
not already mentioned—Bridges not already mentioned. 


Before I enter upon a descrip¬ 
tion of Rome, I will give a brief 
account of Siena, and other places, 
through which we passed on our 
way from Florence to the first- 
named city. 

Siena, formerly called Sena 
Julia , in honour of Caesar, is by 


some authors supposed to have 
been an ancient town of Etruria ; 
while others attribute its founda¬ 
tion to the Gauls who marched to 
Rome under the command ofBren- 
nus. It stands on the acclivity of 
a Tufo-mountain; or, perhaps, 
more properly speaking, the crater 



SIENA. 


119 


Ch. VII.] 

of an extinct volcano ; and once 
contained 100,000 inhabitants; 
though its present population does 
not amount to a fifth part of that 
number. The buildings are hand¬ 
some, and the streets airy; but 
many of them so much up and 
down hill as to be scarcely practi¬ 
cable for carriages. The wine, 
water, bread, meat, and fruits, are 
excellent; the upper classes of 
people well educated, pleasing, and 
remarkably kind to Foreigners; 
and the Tuscan language is said 
to be spoken here in its utmost 
perfection. 

Some remains of the old walls 
of Siena are discoverable near the 
church of S. Antonio ; and several 
ancient grottoes, cellars, subterra¬ 
nean aqueducts, and, as it were, 
whole streets, excavated under the 
mountain, merit notice. 

The Roman Gate is much ad¬ 
mired. 

The Cathedral, which occupies 
the site of a temple dedicated to 
Minerva, is a master-piece of Go¬ 
thic architecture, incrusted with¬ 
out and within with black and 
white marble: it was erected about 
the year 1250; but, in 12S4, the 
original front was taken down, 
and that which now stands, com¬ 
menced by Giovanni, Pisano, and 
finished by Agostino and Agnolo, 
celebrated sculptors of Siena. 
Near the great door are two vases 
for holy water ; the one executed 
by Giacomo della Quercia, the 
other an antique, found at the same 
time with the Graces ; and both 
these vessels contain marble fishes, 
so well done that they appear to be 
swimming. The pavement is rec¬ 
koned one of the most curious 
works of art in Italy ; and consists 
of scriptural histories, wrought in 
mosaic. The story of Moses was 
designed by Beccafumi, surnamed 


Meccarino, and executed, by va¬ 
rious artists, about the middle of 
the sixteenth century. The story 
of Joshua is by Duccio di Buonin- 
segna, Sanese. In this pavement 
are likewise represented the em¬ 
blems of cities once in alliance with 
Siena, namely ; the elephant of 
Rome with a castle on its back— 
the lions of Florence and Massa— 
the dragon of Pistoja—the hare of 
Pisa—the unicorn of Viterbo— 
the goose of Orvieto—the vulture 
ofVolterra—the stork of Perugia 
—the lynx of Lucca—the horse of 
Arezzo—and the kid of Grossetto. 
Here also is the she-wolf of Siena, 
borne in memory of Romulus and 
Remus. This work appears to 
have been executed about the year 
1400. The pavement of the area, 
under the cupola, and that before 
the high altar, representing' Abra¬ 
ham’s intended sacrifice of his son, 
are particularly celebrated; and 
the latter is attributed to Mecca¬ 
rino. The art of paving in this 
beautiful way, or, more properly 
speaking, of representing figures 
in black and white marble thus ex¬ 
quisitely, is now lost. Near the 
entrance of the choir are four large 
frescos by Salimbeni. The Chigi- 
Cliapel contains a copy, in Roman 
mosaic, of a painting by Carlo 
Maratti; a statue of the Magda¬ 
lene, by Bernini; and three other 
statues, by his scholars. The cha¬ 
pel of S. Giovanni contains a sta¬ 
tue of that saint hy Donatello! 
This cathedral is adorned with 
painted glass windows, executed 
in 1549; and busts of all the 
Popes, down to Alexander hi. ; 
among these formerly was the 
bust of Pope Joan; with the 
following inscription under it : 
“ Johannes VIII., Faniina de 
Anglia." 

The Library , or Sacristy, is 


120 

now stripped of all its books, ex¬ 
cept some volumes of church mu¬ 
sic, well worth notice, on account 
of the illuminations with which 
they are decorated; here, likewise, 
is a celebrated antique group, in 
marble, of the three Graces, which 
was found under the church ; and 
on the walls are frescos represent¬ 
ing the principal transactions of 
the life of Pius n., by Pinturic- 
chio, after the designs of Raphael; 
the first painting on the right is 
said to have been wholly done by 
that artist. 

The Tower of the Palazzo 
della Signoria, vulgarly called 
del Mangia, and built by Agnolo 
and Agostino in 1325, is a fine 
piece of Architecture. 

The Churches of the Spedale 
di S. Maria della Scala—the 
Agostiniani — S. Martino di Pro- 
venzano — S. Quirino, and del 
Carmine; and the Church o f the 
Camaldolensi, on the outside of 
the town, contain good pictures. 

The Church of S. Lorenzo is 
famous for an ancient Roman In¬ 
scription, and a well, at the bot¬ 
tom of which is a sort of fountain, 
supported by columns that appear 
to be of high antiquity: and the 
Domenican Church contains a 
painting of the Madonna with our 
Saviour in her arms, executed by 
Guido di Siena in 1221, nineteen 
years before the birth of Cimabue. 

The Palazzo degli Eccelsi con¬ 
tains the Sala della Pace, adorned 
with paintings which represent 
on one side, the recreations of 
Peace ; and, on the other, Tyran¬ 
ny, Cruelty, Deceit, and War ; all 
done by Ambrogio, Sanese, in 
1338—the SaladiConsiglio, where 

(r) Siena boasts another recommenda¬ 
tion, it is exempt from gnats ; as, generally 
speaking, are all the elevated parts of this 
country. 


[Ch.VII. 

are paintings relative to the his¬ 
tory of Siena, by the same master, 
and other subjects, by Bartoli— 
the Sala di Balia, ornamented 
with paintings which represent the 
life of Alexander hi. ; and are 
highly valuable because they exhi¬ 
bit the costume of the age in which 
they were done ; (they are of 
Giotto’s school)—the SaladelCon- 
sistorio, embellished with some of 
Beccafumi's finest frescos, and the 
judgment of Solomon, by Luca 
Giordano; with several other 
apartments, in which are works 
of Salimbeni, Casolani, fyc. 7'he 
Theatre makes a part of this 
palace, and is large and commo¬ 
dious. 

The Fountain constructed in 
1193, is so famous for the quanti¬ 
ty and quality of its water, as to 
be mentioned in the Inferno of 
Dante: indeed, there are few cities 
placed in so elevated a situation as 
Siena, that can boast such abun¬ 
dance of excellent water: and 
moreover, the climate, for persons 
not afflicted with weak lungs, is 
wdiolesome at all seasons of the 
year—a recommendation which 
does not belong to many cities of 
Italy'. 

This town contains a celebrated 
University, several Academies, va¬ 
luable Libraries, Museums, §c.; 
and gave birth to Gregory vn., 
and Alexander hi., two of the 
greatest Sovereigns whoever filled 
the Papal throne s . 

The environs of Siena appear 
to contain several villas, delight¬ 
fully calculated for summer habi¬ 
tations ; but Travellers should be 
especially careful not to fix them¬ 
selves near the Maremma: a con- 

09 The best Inns at Siena are, The Hotel 
des Armes d’Anglet'erre, and the Aquila 
Neva ; the latter is very comfortable. 


SIENA. 


121 


RADICOFANI. 


Oh. VII.] 

siderable tract of country, situated 
near the sea, and deemed particu¬ 
larly unwholesome now; though 
heretofore remarkably populous. 

Beyond Siena, some leagues to 
the left of the high-road, lies 
Chiusi, the ancient Clusium, near 
the Lake of Chiana, formerly 
Clanius: but this city, once Por- 
senna’s capital, is at present thinly 
peopled, on account of its noxious 
air. 

Buonconvento, pleasantly situ¬ 
ated on the Ombrone, about fifteen 
miles from Siena, is likewise in¬ 
fected with Mal'aria: and here 
the Emperor, Henry vii., was poi¬ 
soned by receiving the sacrament 
from a Domenican monk. 

San-Quirico, placed in a healthy 
air, amidst olive-trees and vine¬ 
yards, contains a small Gothic 
Church, the nave and choir of 
which merit notice ; a Palace be¬ 
longing to the Chigi family ; a cu¬ 
rious Well, opposite to the palace, 
and an ancient square tower, sup¬ 
posed to be of Roman origin 4 . 

Near the mountain of Radico- 
fani the soil is volcanic, and the 
country wild and desolate: the 
road, however, is excellent; the 
ascent five miles in length, and the 
descent the same. Radicofani, 
which rises two thousand four 
hundred and seventy feet above 
the level of the Mediterranean 
sea, exhibits, on its summit, large 
heaps of stones, supposed to be 
the mouth of an extinct volcano. 
The post-house, not far distant 
from this spot, is a good inn ; 
and the little fortress near it, was 
once called impregnable ; though 
now falling to decay. This is the 
frontier of Tuscany; and at the 

( t ) The best inn here, 11 Sole , contains 
tolerable beds. 

(«) At Acquapendente every Passport 
must be examined and sealed by the Police 


foot of the mountain, on the way 
to Torrecelli, the road traverses a 
torrent, sometimes dangerous after 
rain. Beyond Torrecelli is Ponte- 
Centino, the first village of the 
Ecclesiastical State : this country 
is embellished with woods, and a 
fine bridge, thrown across the 
Paglia. 

To the next town, Aquapen- 
dente, the approach is particularly 
beautiful: this was the Aqaula of 
the ancients ; and derives its ap¬ 
pellation from the water-falls in 
its vicinity 11 . 

Hence, the road traverses a 
volcanic plain to San Lorenzo- 
nuovo; a remarkably well-con¬ 
structed, clean, and pretty village; 
which possesses the advantages of 
wholesome air and good water ; 
and was built by Pius vi.; that 
the inhabitants of what is now 
called San Lorenzo-rovinatomight 
remove hither, in order to avoid 
the pestilential atmosphere of the 
latter place v . 

Not far distant from S. Lo- 
renzo-nuovo is Bolsena, supposed 
to stand upon the site of the an¬ 
cient Volsinium ; one of the prin¬ 
cipal cities of Etruria; and whence 
the Romans, 265 years before 
Christ, are said to have removed 
two thousand statues to Rome. 
Here are remains of a Temple, 
supposed to have been dedicated 
to the goddess Narsia ; Etruscan 
ornaments, which adorn the front 
of the parochial Church ; and, 
opposite to this edifice, a Sarco¬ 
phagus of Roman workmanship. 
In the environs are remains of an 
Amphitheatre ; together with an 
immense quantity of broken cor¬ 
nices, capitals of pillars, ancient 

Officers; who demand, in consequence, 
one paul per Passport. 

(v) Inn, the Post-house, and tolerably 
good. 


122 


VITERBO. [Ch.VIL 


mosaics, fyc. Bolsena, now an 
unimportant village, is seated on 
a magnificent Lake, of the same 
name, anciently called Lacus 
Vulsinus, and thirty-five Roman 
miles in circumference: this Lake 
contains two small Islands; both 
of them inhabited; and said, by 
Pliny, to have floated in his time; 
though now, they are fixed: it is 
supposed to be the crater of a 
volcano. Nothing- can exceed the 
beauty of the views in this neigh¬ 
bourhood ; but the air is un¬ 
wholesome. 

Near Bolsena is Orvieto, cele¬ 
brated for the excellence of its 
wines ; and containing a hand¬ 
some Gothic Cathedral; adorned, 
on the outside, with sculpture, 
by Niccolo, Pisano; and embel¬ 
lished within, by a painting of 
Signorelli’s, which Buonaroti par¬ 
ticularly admired. 

Between Bolsena and Monte- 
fiascone, the road passes close to 
a remarkable hill, covered with re¬ 
gular prismatic basaltine columns, 
most of them standing obliquely, 
and a considerable length out of 
the ground: indeed, the’ whole 
country, so far as Montefiascone, 
exhibits rocks of basalt, inter¬ 
spersed with forest scenery: and, 
near the above-named hill, is an 
ancient Tomb; erected, according 
to the inscription it bears, by L. 
Canuleius, for himself and his 
family. 

Montefiascone, a finely situated, 
though not a handsome town, pro¬ 
duces such excellent wine, that a 
German Traveller, a Prelate, died 
from drinking it to excess. 

Between Montefiascone and 
Viterbo the country is dreary; and 
near the latter town, on the right, 
is a Lake of hot water; the ex¬ 


halations from which are sulphu¬ 
reous. 

Viterbo, supposed to have been 
the ancient metropolis of Etruria, 
called Volturna, is situated at the 
base of Monte-Cimino, anciently 
Mons-Ciminus; and encompassed 
by walls flanked with towers, 
which give it, at a distance, a 
splendid appearance: it contains 
about thirteen thousand inhabi¬ 
tants, is well built, well paved, and 
adorned with handsome fountains 
and a fine gate, erected by Cle¬ 
ment xm w . 

The road from Viterbo to Ron- 
ciglione traverses part of the 
Monte-Cimino, amid flowers, odo¬ 
riferous herbs, oaks, chestnuts, 
and other forest-trees ; and at the 
base of this mountain, near Ron- 
ciglione, is the Lake of Vico, an¬ 
ciently Lacus-Ciminus, encircled 
with richly wooded hills, and 
forming a beautiful basin of nearly 
three miles in circumference, said 
to have been the funnel of a vol¬ 
cano ; and where, as tradition re¬ 
ports, a city once stood. 

Nine leagues from Viterbo, but 
not in the high-road, is Corneto ; 
remarkable for the number of 
Etruscan antiquities which have 
been, and still are to be found in 
its vicinity: and one league north 
of Corneto is a hill, called Civita- 
Turchino, upon which the ancient 
Tarquinium is supposed to have 
stood. Several little eminences 
lie between this hill and the town 
of Corneto; and those which have 
been opened exhibit subterraneous 
rooms cut in the tufo, lined with 
stucco, and filled with Etruscan 
vases and sarcophagi. 

Ronciglione is situated near a 
picturesque valley, in a barren 
soil; where agriculture seems al- 


(«>) At Viterbo, The Aquila Neva, is a good inn. 


ROME. 


123 


Ch. VII.J 

most wholly neglected ; and where 
the Campagna di Roma begins to 
feel the influence, during hot wea¬ 
ther, of that wide-spreading and 
incomprehensible pest, Mai' aria x . 

Near Monterosi (Mans Eros us) 
is a sheet of lava f not far 
hence, the Loretto and Siena 
roads join; falling into the Via- 
Cassia; and immediately beyond 
the junction of these roads, is the 
Lake of Monterosi, which emits 
an offensive smell. 

Baccano, placed in a pecu¬ 
liarly noxious air, is only two 
posts from Rome ; and on the hill 
above Baccano S. Peter’s may be 
discovered ; while in a valley, on 
the left, near Storta, may be seen 
a half ruined Castle, erected on 
the site of the ancient Citadel of 
Veii. 

No country can be more dreary, 
nor more neglected, than that 
which lies between Baccano and 
the Ponte-Molle: but, from the 
heights near this bridge, Rome 
presents herself to view; gra¬ 
dually expanding as the road de¬ 
scends to the banks of the Tiber. 

Between Storta and the Ponte- 
Molle is the tomb of P. Vibius 
Marianas. 

The Ponte-Molle, anciently 
Pons Milvius, was built by M. 
Emilius Scaurus; and is cele¬ 
brated for the vision seen here 
by Constantine; and the victory 
gained by that prince over the 
Tyrant Maxentius; who was 
drowned in the river near this 
spot: there are, however, scarce 
any remains of the ancient bridge, 
except its foundation. 

The approach to Rome is by 

(x) Ronciglione contains two inns, The 
Post-house, and The Alber&o diS. Agnel- 
lo ; wretched hovels both; though whole¬ 
somely situated ; and, therefore, preferable 
as sleeping-places to the inns nearer Rome, 
all of which are infected by MaV aria. 


the Via-Flaminia, between the 
Pincian and the Marian hills y ; 
and, about two miles and a quarter 
from the Ponte-Molle, cut out of 
rocks which overlook the Via- 
Flaminia, is the Nasonian Se¬ 
pulchre ; and near the Porta del 
Popolo, toward the Porta-Pin- 
ciana, is the Muro-torto, a part 
of the city-wall, which declines 
from its perpendicular, and sup¬ 
posed, by some persons, to have 
been the Sepulchre of the Domi- 
tian Family, where the ashes of 
Nero were deposited. 

Nothing, of its kind, can be 
more magnificent than the entry 
into Rome through the Porta del 
Popolo ; a gate erected originally 
by Aurelian, (when he enclosed 
the Campus Martius,) and called 
Porta-Flaminia. The outside of 
the present gate was built by Vig¬ 
nola ; and the inside ornamented 
by Bernini. 

Rome has suffered so mate¬ 
rially from volcanic eruptions, 
earthquakes, and the frequent 
ravages of invading armies, that 
even the surface of the ground 
on which it. originally stood is 
completely altered ; insomuch that 
on digging deep, it is common 
to discover columns, statues, frag¬ 
ments of edifices, and sometimes 
even the pavement of the an¬ 
cient city, from twenty to thirty 
feet under ground. The stu¬ 
pendous common sewers, through 
which the offal of Rome was con¬ 
veyed into the Cloaca-maxima, 
are many of them choked up; and 
the Cloaca-maxima itself is in bad 
order; this causes pestilential air; 
and the workmen who, by digging 

(//) Three roads led from Rome to Lom¬ 
bardy ; the Fluminian along the Adriatic; 
the Aurelian along the Mediterranean; 
and the Cussian between these two, 
through the interior of the country. 


124 


ROME. 


deep, have opened apertures to 
the common sewers, not unfre- 
quently have lost their lives from 
the putrid effluvia. In the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Rome all the land is 
ill-cultivated and worse drained ; 
so that fogs and noxious vapours 
prevail there during night: it 
likewise abounds with sulphur, 
arsenic, and vitriol: hence, there¬ 
fore, in some measure, perhaps, 
may arise that Mai' aria which 
never affected ancient Rome ; be¬ 
cause these minerals were either 
unknown to its inhabitants, or 
suffered to remain buried in the 
bowels of the earth. The tem¬ 
perature of the seasons also seems 
to be changed ; for Horace gives 
us to understand that, in his time, 
the streets of Rome, during win¬ 
ter, were filled with ice and snow: 
and it appears, from Juvenal, that 
to see the Tiber frozen over was 
not uncommon: whereas, at pre¬ 
sent, it is deemed extraordinary for 
snow to lie three days in any part 
of the city ; and, respecting the 
Tiber, no person recollects to 
have seen it frozen. These cir¬ 
cumstances, added to the want of 
trees to agitate and improve the 
air, concur to account for the pre¬ 
sent unhealthiness of some parts 
of Rome, and nearly all its Cam- 
pagna, during summer: beside 
which, the mouth of the Tiber is 
choked with mud and sand; while 
its bed has been considerably nar¬ 
rowed by filth and rubbish, thrown 
from the houses situated on its 
banks; so that a strong south 
wind often makes it overflow, and 
inundate the city and its envi¬ 
rons.—Could this river be turned 
into another channel, and the pre- 

(z) Beside sixty colossal statues which 
adorned ancient Rome, her streets and fo¬ 
rums were lined with porticos, supported 
by columns of marble, and embellished 
with busts and statues innumerable ; and a 


[Ch. VII. 

sent bed cleansed and deepened, 
what an advantage might Rome 
derive in point of healthfulness ; 
and what a harvest to Antiquaries 
might the river’s bed afford 2 !— 
So unwholesome now is the Cam- 
pagna di Roma in July and Au¬ 
gust, that, during these months, 
it is dangerous to sleep within 
twenty miles of the city: Rome 
itself, however, even at this sea¬ 
son, is not usually visited by Mai' 
aria , either on the Corso, the 
Quirinal Hill, or the streets com¬ 
prised within the Rioni Monti, 
Trevi, Colonna, Campo-Marzo, 
Ponte, Parione, Regola, S. Eu- 
stacio, Pigna, and S. Angelo: 
but at this season the climate is 
oppressively hot; though, during 
winter and spring, temperate and 
delightful. 

The ancient Romans had aque¬ 
ducts sufficient to convey daily to 
the city eight hundred thousand 
tons of water: the three principal 
aqueducts now remaining are, that 
ot the Acqna-Vergine; that of 
the Acqua-Felice; and that of 
the Acqiia-Paulitia ; the first was 
repaired by Paul iv., and dis¬ 
charges itself into the Fontana 
di Trevi: the second comes from 
the neighbourhood of Palestrina, 
twenty-two miles distant from 
Rome, and is one of the many 
works which do honour to the 
reign of Sextus v., who expended 
a million of scudi in repairing it: 
this aqueduct discharges itself into 
the Fontana di Termine. The 
third, which derives its name from 
its restorer, Paul v., is separated 
into two channels ; one of which 
supplies Monte-Gianicolo, and the 
other the Vatican: it comes thirty 

large portion of these precious remains of 
antiquity is supposed to have been thrown 
into the Tiber. So numerous were the 
marble columns in Rome that a tax was 
put upon them. 


ROME. 


125 


Ch. VII.] 

miles ; and principally discharges 
itself into the fountain near the 
church of S. Pietro-Montorio. 

Rome, during- the reig-n of Va¬ 
lerian, was surrounded by a wall, 
said to have been fifty miles in 
circumference a : and the number 
of inhabitants, during- its most 
flourishing- state, was, by some 
authors, computed at four mil¬ 
lions b . Modern Rome is not 
above thirteen miles in circumfe¬ 
rence ; and contains scarce 135,000 
inhabitants : but reduced as this 
ancient Mistress of the world now 
is, in size and population, reduced 
too as her Papal throne has been 
in wealth and power, still, the 
matchless frescos of Raphael, Buo- 
naroti, Daniello da Volterra, 
Giulio, Romano, Annibale Ca- 
racci, Guido, Domenichino, Guer- 
cino, SfC., are unalienably her’s ; 
still the master-pieces of Grecian 
sculpture adorn lifir museums; 
still her stately palaces, noble 
churches, beautiful fountains, gi¬ 
g-antic columns, stupendous obe¬ 
lisks, andpeerless Coliseum, entitle 
her to be called the most magnifi¬ 
cent city of Europe, and the unri¬ 
valled Mistress of the Arts!—Her 
streets, nevertheless, are ill paved 
and dirty; while ruins of im¬ 
mense edifices, which continually 
present themselves to view, give 
an impression of melancholy to 
every thinking spectator. 

The society at Rome is excel¬ 
lent ; and the circumstance of 
every man, whether foreigner or 
native, being permitted to live as 
he pleases, without exciting won¬ 
der, contributes essentially to ge- 

( a ) The upper ranks of ancient Romans 
do not appear to have resided so much in 
the city as in villas not far distant: and 
this wall of fifty miles in circumference 
might probably enclose the suburbs of 
Rome, which must, judging from the re- 


neral comfort. At Rome, too, 
every person may find amusement: 
for whether it be our wish to dive 
deep into classical knowledge, 
whether arts and sciences be our 
pursuit, or whether we merely 
seek for new ideas and new ob¬ 
jects, the end cannot fail to be 
obtained in this most interesting of 
cities, where every stone is an 
historian: and though Rome has, 
in some respects, suffered from her 
late Rulers, the French, she is, ge¬ 
nerally speaking, obliged to them ; 
as they removed the earth with 
which time had buried part of the 
Colisseum; disencumbered the 
temple of Vesta from the plaster- 
walls which destroyed its beauty ; 
excavated the Forum of Trajan, 
the Baths of Titus, and the lower 
parts of the Temples of Concord 
and Jupiter Tonans; removed 
from the foundations of the arches 
of Septimius Sevcrus and Constan¬ 
tine, the earth and rubbish, by which 
they were in some measure con¬ 
cealed, and ridded the Temple of 
Peace of an immense collection of 
earth, which entombed nearly one- 
third of its remains. 

I will now endeavour to point 
out the most convenient way of 
visiting the Antiquities, Churches, 
Palaces, fyc .; mentioning the 
objects best worth notice only; 
in order to prevent Travellers 
from wasting their time, and bur¬ 
dening their memory, by a minute 
survey of what is not particularly 
interesting ; and thereby, perhaps, 
depriving themselves of leisure to 
examine what really merits the 
closest attention. I shall begin 

mains now left, have been very extensive. 

( b ) Tacitus says, the Emperor Claudius 
made a lustrum, by which the number of 
inhabitants was found to be sixty-eight 
classes, consisting of one hundred and 
sixty-four thousand each. 


12f> 


ROME. 


with the Antiquities ; previously 
observing 1 , that whoever wishes to 
see these wrecks of ancient splen¬ 
dour to advantage, should visit 
them, for the first time, by the mild 
and solemn light of the moon ; 
which not only assimilates with 
fallen greatness, but throws every 
defect into shadow ; leaving Ima¬ 
gination to supply every beauty, 
and array every object in its pris¬ 
tine garb of magnificence. 

Foro- R omano. There were two 
kinds of Forums in Rome, Fora 
Civilia, and Fora Venalia; the 
former serving as ornaments to the 
City, and likewise as Courts of 
Justice; the latter as Market¬ 
places. The Forum Romanum 
was of the first kind ; and here 
stood the Comitium and the Ros¬ 
trum. The Comitium was a large 
apartment, for a considerable pe¬ 
riod, open at the top ; it contained 
the tribunal, and ivory chair, 
whence the Chief-Magistrate ad¬ 
ministered justice. The Rostrum 
was so called because this building 
contained an Orator’s pulpit, gar¬ 
nished with beaks of vessels, taken 
by the Romans, from the People 
of Antium c . The Forum Roma¬ 
num is supposed to have extended 
in length, from the Chiesa della 
Consalazione to that of S. Adri¬ 
ano ; and, in breadth, from the 
three Columns, called the Temple 
of Jove Stator, to the triumphal 
Arch of Septimius Severus d . It 
was built by Romulus, and sur¬ 
rounded with porticos by Tarqui- 
nius Priscus: little, however, now 
remains to be seen, except heaps 
of ruins, and piles of vegetable 
earth ; the immense accumulation 

(c)TheLatin word for ship-beaksis?'Oi/r/ 7 . 

\d) A distance of about 750 feet one way, 
and 500 the other. 

(e) Rome is supposed to have been built 
in the mouth of an exinct volcano: and 
this opinion seems justified by the story 


[Ch.VII. 

of which cannot be accounted for. 
The Via-Sacra, so called in con¬ 
sequence of the peace concluded 
between Romulus and Tatius, and 
the sacrifices offered to the gods 
on that occasion, traversed the 
Forum Romanum, from the side 
near the Colisaeum to the Arch of 
Septimius Severus; and in the 
middle of this Forum was the La - 
cus-Curtius ; whence the fine 
alto-rilievo in the Villa-Borghese 
is said to have been taken® 

Tcmpio di Giove Tonante. 
This beautiful edifice was built by 
Augustus, in consequence of his 
escape from lightning. Only 
three columns, with part of the 
frieze, now remain; and on the 
side of the latter are sacrificial in¬ 
struments in basso-relievo, namely, 
the preeficulum , the patera , the 
aspergillum , the securis and cid¬ 
ler, together with the albogalerus , 
a cap resembling a bishop’s mitre, 
supposed to have been worn by 
the priests of Jove. 

Tempio della Concordia. Fu¬ 
lfills Camillus erected this temple, 
in consequence of the reconcilia¬ 
tion he effected between the Se¬ 
nate and people of Rome: it was 
consumed by fire, and rebuilt; 
but the portico only is remaining 
now ; and consists, in front, of six 
Ionic granite columns, whose bases 
and capitals are white marble, 
with one column on each side. In 
this temple Cicero is supposed to 
have convoked the Senate which 
condemned Lentulus and Cethe- 
gus, the accomplices of Catiline f . 

Arco di Settimio Severo,e rected 
A. D. 235, in honour of the Em¬ 
peror and his Sons, by the Senate 

of Curtius, and the account of the manner 
in which the Temple of Peace was destroyed. 

(J ) Some antiquaries imagine this to 
have been the temple of Fortune ; because 
the temple of Concord is said to have 
fronted the Comitium. 


Ch. VII.] 

and people of Rome. This arch 
was originally adorned with a tri¬ 
umphal car and six horses ; in the 
car were two figures s; on each 
side was a foot soldier ; and on 
each extremity of the attic, a sol¬ 
dier on horseback. The bassi- 
rilievi on the arch record the vic¬ 
tories of Severus over the Parthi- 
ans, and other uncivilized nations. 

Tempio di Saturno , now Chie¬ 
sa di S. Adriano. This temple, 
during the time of the Republic, 
was the treasury : but scarce any 
part of the original building now 
remains, except its brazen gate, 
which adorns the church of S. 
Giovanni in Laterano. The situ¬ 
ation of the Chiesa di S. Adriano 
merits notice; as, before it, stood, 
according to Tacitus, the famous 
golden column, erected by Au¬ 
gustus, and called Milliarium 
aureum; whence the distance to 
every province was measured; and 
which is said to have been placed 
in the centre of ancient Rome. 
From this column the Roman 
roads branched off, in straight 
lines, to all parts of Italy. 

Colonna di Phocas. This co¬ 
lumn, supposed originally to have 
adorned an ancient edifice, was 
erected, in the seventh century, on 
its present site, in honour of the 
Emperor Phocas, whose statue of 
bronze gilt is said to have stood on 
tlie top of the pillar. 

Tempio di Antonino e Faus¬ 
tina, built A. D. 168 , by the Ro¬ 
man Senate, in memory of their 
Emperor, Antoninus Pius, and 

(g) Probably the Sons of the Emperor, 
because he was prevented by the gout from 
assisting in the triumphal procession. 

(h) Stator (<r raTMg) he who makes to 
stop, or stand. When Cicero, in conse¬ 
quence of Catiline’s conspiracy, convened 
the Senate in the Temple of Jupiter, he con¬ 
cluded his oration there, by saying “ Whilst 
thou, Jupiter, whose worship was establish¬ 
ed with the foundation of this city, thou. 


127 

his Consort, Faustina. The por- 
ticoof this temple, now the Chiesa 
di S. Lorenzo in Miranda, is 
adorned with ten Corinthian co¬ 
lumns of marble, called, by the 
Romans, Cipollino: the sides of 
the portico seem originally to 
have been incrusted with marble, 
now taken away ; but a frieze 
of white marble, adorned with 
griffins, fyc., still remains, and 
proves the ancient magnificence 
of the building. 

Tempio di Giove Statore h . On 
the north side of the Via-Sacra, 
toward the Palatine hill, stand 
three beautiful columns of white 
marble, supposed to have been 
part of the portico of a temple 
consecrated to the above-named 
deity, by Romulus, on the spot 
where he rallied his soldiers who 
fied from the Sabines. Some per¬ 
sons suppose the Comitium to 
have made part of this edifice ; but, 
be that as it may, the now remain¬ 
ing part must have been rebuilt 
when architecture was in much 
higher perfection than during the 
days of Romulus. 

Chiesa di S. Maria Libera- 
trice. This church is supposed 
by modern antiquaries to stand 
on the site of the original Tem¬ 
ple of Vesta, erected by Numa, 
and bordering on the Lacus- 
Curtius. Near this Church 
are ruins of a square brick edi¬ 
fice, erected by Tullus Hosti- 
lius, and called Curia Host ilia ; 
and on this side of the Forum, 
the Rostra 1 , the temples of Au- 

whom we truly call Stator, the prop and 
stay of our empire Query, therefore, sup¬ 
posing the Senate to have assembled in the 
Capitol, whether the Temple of Jupiter 
Stator was not there 1 

(i) Pliny informs us, that the first sun¬ 
dial, set up for public use at Rome, was 
likewise placed on this spot, about the year 
V. C. 491. 


ROME. 


12S 


ROME. 


[Ch. VII. 


Augustus, and Castor and Pollux, 
together with the Basilica of Por¬ 
cius, are all supposed to have 
stood. 

Tempio di Remo, now Chiesa 
de' S. S. Cosimo e Damiano. 
The bronze door, marble door¬ 
case, and porphyry columns, which 
adorn the outside of this building, 
appear to be antique ; as does the 
rotunda which serves as a ves¬ 
tibule ; but the body of the church 
seems to have been erected about 
the time of Constantine. In this 
temple was a pavement contain¬ 
ing the plan of Rome, cut on 
white marble, probably in the 
Reign of Septimius Severus and 
Caracalla ; which plan, mutilated 
and unmethodized, is now fixed 
in the stair-case of the Museum of 
the Capitol. 

The subterranean part of this 
temple merits notice. 

Tempio della Pace. Vespa¬ 
sian, after terminating the war 
with Judea, raised this vast edifice 
upon the foundation of the portico 
of Nero's golden house, about the 
year 75: it was deemed the most 
magnificent temple of ancient 
Rome ; being of a quadrangular 
form, three hundred feet long, and 
two hundred feet broad. It con¬ 
sisted of three naves, with three 
tribunes on each side ; it was in- 
crusted with bronze gilt, adorned 
with stupendous columns, and en¬ 
riched with the finest statues and 
pictures of the Grecian school ; 
particularly the celebrated work 
done by Protogenes, for the 
Rhodians, and representing Ialy- 
sus. Pliny likewise places here 
the statue of the Nile with six¬ 
teen children ; probably that which 

(.;) I presume not to judge whether these 
ruins did, or did not, make part of the 
Temple of Peace: but the edifice certainly 
appears to have been built in a style supe- 


now enriches the Vatican. The 
citizens deposited their wealth in 
this temple ; and here, likewise, 
Titus Vespasian placed the spoils 
of Jerusalem; in short, it served 
as a public treasury, till about an 
hundred years after its foundation, 
when the whole building, with all 
the precious contents, are said to 
have been destroyed by fire, which 
issued suddenly from the bowels 
of the earth: and this record ot 
the entire destruction of the tem¬ 
ple, added to an idea that the style 
of architecture is not good enough 
for the days of Vespasian, has 
lately induced several persons to 
conjecture that these ruins, called 
the temple of Peace, are, in fact, 
the remains of the Basilica ot 
Constantine, which stood near the 
Colisseum. Little now can be 
traced of the building in question, 
except three immense arches, or 
tribunes, with part of the walls 
and roof, niches for statues, and 
doors of communication : but what 
serves to convey some idea of the 
grandeur of this edifice is one of 
the eight columns with which its 
interior was decorated, namely, a 
fluted Corinthian shaft of white 
marble, sixteen feet and a half in 
circumference, and, without base 
or capital, forty-eight feet high: 
it now stands before the church of 
S. Maria Ma ggioreh 

Tempio di Venere e Roma , 
near the Chiesa di S. Francesca 
Romana. This double temple 
had two fronts ; and each front 
had a portico adorned with co¬ 
lumns of rare marble. There .are 
considerable remains of this tem¬ 
ple ; namely, two tribunes, great 
part of one of the side-walls, and 

rior to that usually adopted in the days of 
Constantine, and very similar to the Temple 
of Venus and Rome. 


129 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

the foundation and broken pillars 
of one of the porticos ; all of which 
indicate that the edifice must have 
been extremely magnificent: it 
was built after the designs of the 
Emperor Adrian ; and the man¬ 
ner in which the roofs of the tri¬ 
bunes were stuccoed and orna¬ 
mented resembles the style in 
which the remaining roofs of his 
villa near Tivoli were adorned k . 

Arco di Tito, built by the Se¬ 
nate and people of Rome, and de¬ 
dicated to Titus in honour of his 
conquest of Jerusalem. It con¬ 
sists of one large arch, over which 
is an attic story. Each front was 
originally adorned with four fluted 
composite columns. On the frieze 
is represented Titus’s triumphal 
procession, together with the image 
of a river-god, probably the Jor¬ 
dan. Under the arch, on one 
side, is the Emperor seated in a 
triumphal car, conducted by the 
Genius of Rome, and attended by 
Victory; who is crowning him 
with laurels. On the other side of 
the arch are the spoils of the 
temple of Jerusalem, namely ; 
the table of shew-brcad; the tables 
of the law; the seven-branched 
golden candlestick; the jubilee 
trumpets ; fyc., copied no doubt, 
from the originals ; and there¬ 
fore the only faithful represen¬ 
tations extant of these sacred 
Jewish antiquities. The deifica¬ 
tion of Titus is represented on the 
roof of the inside of the arch. 
This edifice was nearly destroy¬ 
ed, that its ornaments might be 

(Jc) The name of the Temple seems allu¬ 
sive to the boasted descent of the Romans 
from yEneas, the son of Venus. 

(/) Judea is always represented, on the 
medals struck by Titus, as a woman sitting 
on the ground in a posture denoting sorrow. 

(m) So called, because strewed with 
sand, that the blood of the slain might not 
make the place slippery. 

(n) A stone much used in large buildings 
at Rome. 


placed elsewhere ; but, neverthe¬ 
less, enough remains to prove that 
it was the most beautiful building 
of its kind ever erected 1 . 

Colosseo. This vast and ma¬ 
jestic edifice is supposed to have 
derived its name of Colisceum from 
a colossal statue, one hundred and 
twenty feet high, of Nero, in the 
character of Apollo; which was 
placed here by Titus Vespasian • 
who, on the day when it first open¬ 
ed, is said to have had five thou¬ 
sand wild beasts killed in its 
arena 1 ". The building was erected 
by Flavius Vespasian; and is 
supposed to stand where once were 
the fish-ponds of Nero ; it consists 
of four stories, namely; three rows 
of porticos, raised one above the 
other, and terminated by a lofty 
circular wall. The first story is 
adorned with Doric columns, the 
second with Ionic, the third with 
Corinthian columns, and the fourth 
with pilasters, between which are 
windows. The shape is an oval, 
computed to be one thousand six 
hundred and forty-one feet in cir¬ 
cumference, and one hundred and 
fifty-seven feet in height. The 
arena, likewise, is an oval, of two 
hundred and seventy-eight feet 
long, by one hundred and seventy¬ 
sevenwide. The materials of which 
the edifice is chiefly composed are 
immense blocks of Travertino", 
originally fixed together with iron 
or bronze cramps, now taken 
away°. The entrances were eighty 
in number, seventy-six being for 
the people, two for the Gladiators p, 

(o) The cramps were fastened with melted 
lead, 

(p) Gladiatorial shows were exhibited in 
this Amphitheatre till the year 404; when 
an eastern Monk, named Almachius, or 
Tetemachus, rushed into the arena, and en¬ 
deavoured to separate the combatants ; the 
Praetor, Alypius, who enjoyed these hor¬ 
rid sights, ordered the Gladiators to slay the 
Monk; they obeyed; but he was canonized; 
and Honorius abolished the shows. 

K 


ISO 


ROME. 


and two for the Emperor and his 
suite: and within the walls were 
twenty staircases, leading 1 to seats 
appropirated to the different classes 
of spectators. Round the arena 
was a high wall; immediately 
above which stood the podium, or 
balcony, for the Emperor, and the 
seats for the Vestal Virgins, Se¬ 
nators, and Magistrates, entitled 
to curule chairs ; and behind 
these seats rose others, in four 
divisions, the last of Avhich were 
appropriated to the populace. The 
seats are supposed to have con¬ 
tained eighty-seven thousand spec¬ 
tators ; and the gallery above them 
twenty thousand. There was an 
awning which stretched over the 
whole edifice, in case of rain, or 
intense heat: and in the wall of 
the uppermost story are square 
holes supposed to have contained 
the rings for fastening the cords of 
this awning. The arches of the 
first row of porticos are numbered 
on the outside ; probably to en¬ 
able the various classes of specta¬ 
tors to find, without difficulty, 
their destined place. Two gates 
led into the arena ; the one being 
opposite to the Temple of Venus 
and Rome, the other on the side 
of the Mom-Ccelius; and, near 
the latter entry, Pius vti. has 
recently raised a noble buttress, to 
prevent this part of the Colisseum 
from falling. Soldiers, likewise, 
are constantly stationed here, to 
guard the edifice from mischief; 
and also to protect Travellers, who 
may wish to examine this stupen¬ 
dous pile by moonlight. 

Near the Colisseum, toward the 
Via-Sacra, are remains of a Foun¬ 
tain called the Meta Sadans; 
which supplied the persons who 
assisted at the shows with wa¬ 
ter ; and might, perhaps, be 
used in filling the arena for the 


[Ch. VII. 

Namiachiee frequently exhibited 
there. 

Arco di Costantino, dedicated 
to that Emperor by the senate and 
people of Rome, in memory of his 
victory over Maxentius at the 
Ponte-Molle. This arch stands 
at the junction of the Celian and 
Palatine hills, in the Via-Appia: 
and is the most splendid, because 
the best preserved edifice, of its 
kind, remaining in Rome. It has, 
on each side, four fluted Corin¬ 
thian columns, seven being giallo 
antico, and one white marble; 
and on the pilasters, above these 
columns, are statues of Dacian 
warriors. The bassi-rilievi on 
the frieze, representing the con¬ 
quest of Verona, and the victory 
at the Ponte-Molle, together with 
the four figures of Fame, and the 
two medallions on the sides of 
the arch, are proofs of the decline 
of sculpture under Constantine : 
the other bassi-rilievi, two ex¬ 
cepted below the great arcade 
(which were also done in the time 
of Constantine,) are finely exe¬ 
cuted, and supposed to have been 
taken either from the Arch or 
Forum of Trajan. One of these, 
fronting the Colisseum, represents 
the triumphal entry of Trajan into 
Rome ; and another, on the oppo¬ 
site side, represents him in the act 
of offering the sacrifice called 
Suovetaurilia. The Statues of 
Dacian warriors, the Columns of 
giallo antico, and all the Cor¬ 
nices, were taken from the Arch 
of Trajan. 

Chiesa di S. Teodoro. Imme¬ 
diately behind the Forum Roma¬ 
nian, on the way to the Forum 
Boarium, stands this small Ro¬ 
tunda, anciently the Temple of 
Romulus ; and erected on the spot 
where he was discovered. The 
bronze wolf, now preserved in the 


Ch. VII.] 

Capitol, originally enriched tliis 
templet (in the outside of the 
door of entrance is a pagan 
altar. The ancient walls of the 
Temple are perfect, and exhibit 
withinside three large niches for 
statues. The roof is modern. 
The old Roman custom of car¬ 
rying sick infants to this Temple 
still continues; although the 
building is now consecrated to 
Christian worship. The interior of 
the edifice may be seen every Sun¬ 
day morning, from eight o’clock till 
ten ; and every Thursday morn¬ 
ing, from seven o’clock till eight. 
Near this spot was the Lupercal. 

Arco di Settimio Severo in 
Velabro. This Arch was erect¬ 
ed by the Argentarii , bankers, 
and merchants of the Forum Boa - 
rium, to Septimius Severus, his 
Empress, Julia, and their Son, 
Caracalla. The sculpture re¬ 
sembles, in style, that on the tri¬ 
umphal arch of Severus. Ad¬ 
joining to this Arch, is the Church 
of S. Giorgio in Velabro, sup¬ 
posed to stand on the site of the 
Basilica o f Sempronius. 

Arco di Giano Quadrifronte. 
This building, composed of im¬ 
mense blocks of white Greek mar¬ 
ble, was once adorned with 
columns, which have disappeared. 
The brick-work .above the cor¬ 
nice is of the middle ages. The 
edifice seems originally to have 
been either a market-house, or an 
exchange, of which there were 
several in ancient Rome, almost 

(q) Venuti says, the Temple of Romulus 
was preserved a great while in its original 
state of simplicity ; by way of recalling to 
the remembrance of the Romans, the 
simple manners of their ancestors. 

(r) There were, in this quarter, beside the 
Forum Boarium, the Forums Olitoriwn 
and Piscatorium. , 

(s) Pliny says, that the Cloaca, or Com¬ 
mon Sewers, were the most surprising 


131 

every Forum being provided with 
one of them 1 '. 

To the left of the Arch of Ja¬ 
nus Quadrifrons is a small stream 
of limpid water ; which discharges 
itself into the Cloaca-Maxima ; 
and which, tradition reports to be 
the Lake of Juturna , where Cas¬ 
tor and Pollux were seen to water 
their horses after the battle at the 
Lac us-R egi ll us. 

Cloaca-Maxima. This great 
common sewer was constructed, 
by Tarquinius Priscus, of rude 
stones, regularly placed, but with¬ 
out cement, and forming three 
rows of arches : it entered the 
Tiber between the Pons-Senato - 
rius and the Temple of Vesta; 
and its mouth may be discovered 
when the river is low. Part of 
this building lies close to the Arch 
of Janus*. 

Near to the Palatine, or Sena¬ 
torial! Bridge, now called the 
Ponte-Rotto, are remains of an 
edifice, denominated the House 
Pilate, but really that of Nicholas 
Crescens, supposed to have been 
the son of Pope John x. 

Chiesa di S. Maria in Cos- 
medin, conjectured to be the 
Temple of Modesty, erected by 
Virginia, the wife of Volumnius. 
This edifice stands a little to the 
left of the Temple of Jupiter 
Stator: in the portico is an ancient 
mask ; "probably intended as the 
ornament of a fountain ; but, in 
consequence of an idea once pre¬ 
valent among the populace, that 

public works at Rome; being cut through 
hills, and under the very foundations of 
the city; and, moreover, so spacious that 
a cart loaded with hay might pass through 
them. Common sewers were unknown in 
Greece ; and invented by the Romans. The 
smaller Cloaca all communicated with the 
Cloaca-Maxima: these Cloaca were con¬ 
tinually cleansed, by streams of water re¬ 
sembling rivers. 

K 2 


ROME. 


132 


ROME. 


oracles issued from it, called 
Bocca della Verita. Judging by 
the fine antique marble columns, 
discoverable in the walls of this 
church, the edifice must have been 
originally large and handsome; the 
pavement consists of porphyry and 
other precious marbles ; the high 
altar is adorned with an ancient 
bath or sarcophagus of red Egyp¬ 
tian granite ; and in the tribuna 
is an ancient pontifical chair. 

The first Custocle of Arcadia, 
Giovanni Mario Crescimbeni, was 
buried in this church ; his monu¬ 
ment is near the great door. 

Tempio di Vesta, now Chiesa 
di S. Maria del Sole. When this 
Temple was erected is uncertain ; 
but it is said to have been re¬ 
paired by Domitian. Here are 
nineteen beautiful Corinthian 
fluted columns of Parian marble, 
which stand on several steps, and 
form a circular portico round a 
Celia, likewise circular; the wall 
of which is also composed of blocks 
of Parian marble ; and so exqui¬ 
sitely are these materials joined, 
that they appear to be only one 
piece. The ancient roof was 
bronze; but this, together with 
the entablature, and one of the 
columns (for there were twenty,) 
can no longer be found. Here, 
according to some opinions, the 
Vestal Virgins kept the celebrated 
Palladium and the sacred fire 4 . 

Tempio della Fortuna Virile , 
now Chiesa di S. Maria Egiziuca . 
This Tempi e is supposed to have 
been erected by Servius Tullius ; 
but the elegant fluted columns 
with which it is adorned prove 

(0 Vestal Virgins were so called from 
their goddess Vesta, or tire : Vesta being 
derived from the Hebrew root f, re . 

whence the Greek Epa, fire, and the 
Latin Vesta. 


[Ch. VII. 

that it must have been repaired 
at a later period. It seems, like 
many of the ancient Roman edi¬ 
fices, to have suffered from fire ; 
in order to conceal the effects of 
which, perhaps, the fine stucco 
that covers the columns and en¬ 
tablature might be employed. 
The form of this temple is Gre¬ 
cian ; the columns are Ionic ; and 
the ornaments of the entablature, 
though injured by time, are still 
visible. 

Palazzo de' Cesari. On the 
Mons Palatinus, where Romulus 
founded Rome, Augustus began, 
and Domitian finished, the splen¬ 
did Palace of her Emperors ; 
which, like a little city, covered 
the hill. The form of this palace 
nearly a parallelogram, may still 
be traced ; and ruins of one half 
are discoverable in the Orti Far- 
nesiani ; and of the other half in 
the Garden belonging to the Eng¬ 
lish College, the Convent of S. 
Bonaventura, and the Garden of 
the Villa-Spada. The entrance 
seems to have been from the Via- 
Sacra. The Gardens of Adonis, 
on each side of which was a Hip¬ 
podrome, belonged to this impe¬ 
rial residence ; and the Claudian 
Aqueduct supplied it with water. 

In order to see everything now 
remaining, the best*way is to 
drive nearly up to the Arch of 
Titus, then turn to the right, and, 
a little way on, is a gate, which 
opens into the Orto Farnesiani. 
After entering this garden, and 
ascending some steps that lead to 
three small dilapidated modern 
edifices, one of which surmounted 

The Vestal Virgins were bound to keep 
the sacred fire unextingnished; and like¬ 
wise to reconcile persons who quarrelled 
with each other. 

The temples of Vesta were always cir* 
cular j perhaps in allusion to the sun. 


133 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

by a turret, contains frescos, 
which, though much injured, me¬ 
rit notice, you are presented with 
a beautiful view of the Temple 
of Peace: and, further on, is the 
spot where the Arcadian Acade¬ 
my originally assembled 11 , amidst 
ever-green oaks, wood-laurels, 
and fragments of the entablature, 
frieze, cornices, and capitals of 
columns, which seem to have once 
belonged to the Temple of Apollo, 
built by Augustus, after the vic¬ 
tory of Actium: for, among the 
decorations of the frieze and cor¬ 
nice, are griffins and tridents in¬ 
terlaced with dolphins ; symbols 
of a naval triumph: and moreover, 
griffins were consecrated to Apollo. 
These finely executed fragments 
are now overgrown by the acan¬ 
thus ; which flourishes here so 
luxuriantly that one might fancy 
it planted on purpose to point out 
the source of Corinthian archi¬ 
tectural ornaments. Here lies 
neglected, on the grass, the ori¬ 
ginal medallion of the arms of 
Arcadia, the Syrinx of Pan en¬ 
circled with pine and laurel; 
which medallion once adorned the 
place of meeting. This garden 
likewise contains two small sub¬ 
terranean apartments, commonly 
called the Baths of Livia; in 

(«) The Arcadian Academy, one of the 
most celebrated in Europe, was founded in 
the year 1690, and warmly patronised by 
Christina of Sweden and the Literati of 
her time. Its members, at the commence¬ 
ment of the institution, met in the Farncse 
Garden; and, afterward, at the Bosco Par- 
rasio, on the Janiculum hill: but, at pre¬ 
sent, they assemble in a house provided 
for them by the Roman Government; and 
in which resides their Custodc (Je tier ale, 
the learned and venerable Abate Godart. 

( v ) Among the frescos are two medallions 
representing the story of Hercules and 
Cacus. The Cave of this famous robber, 
according to the fable, stood between the 
Tiber and the Temple of Hercules, (now, 
according to some writers, the Church of 
S. Alexius,) on the Aventine Hill. 


which, by the aid of torches, re¬ 
mains may be discovered of beau¬ 
tiful arabesques, and a consider¬ 
able quantity of gilding, bright as 
if just done: here also are small 
hassi-rilievi , in stucco. Beyond 
the baths of Livia is a dilapidated 
villa of modern date, adorned with 
frescos v , probably by Raphael's 
scholars: and from a terrace here, 
the view of Rome, and its envi¬ 
rons, is magnificent. Returning 
hence, and going round that part 
of the garden which fronts the 
Capitol, you find a considerable 
number of subterranean buildings; 
some of which resemble the Sette 
Salle belonging to Titus's Baths ; 
and might probably, like them, 
have served as reservoirs for wa¬ 
ter. This garden also contains 
ruins of the Theatre built by Cali¬ 
gula ; and a spacious Hall, the 
roof of which is well preserved. 

On quitting the Orti Farnesiani, 
and continuing to ascend the Pa¬ 
latine hill, you find, on the left, 
the Chiesa di S. Bonaventura; 
previous to reaching which, turn 
through a gate-way, on the right, 
that leads to the Villa-Spada ; a 
modern edifice, built on the foun¬ 
dations of some part of the im¬ 
perial residence ; and, probably, 
that called Nero’s golden House w . 

(w) Nero’s golden house (DomusAurea ,) 
joined the imperial palace of Augustus; 
and is supposed to have extended over the 
whole of the Celian hill. Under the steeple 
of the Church of S. John and S. Paul, are 
Ruins of a noble Portico, which is said to 
have belonged to this golden house: and foun¬ 
dations of other buildings, which, probably, 
belonged to it likewise, may be traced the 
whole way from the Villa Spada to the Es- 
quiline hill. It had a triple portico, sup¬ 
ported by a thousand columns : it contained 
accommodations for animals, both wild and 
tame; and, in the vaulted roofs of the 
banqueting rooms were machines of ivory 
that turned round, and, from pipes, scat¬ 
tered flowers, and perfumes. The principal 
eating room was a rotunda, so constructed 
that it turned round night aqd day, in imi- 


134 

On entering* this Villa, you find a 
portico adorned with frescos, all 
of which, except one that repre¬ 
sents Venus, and is attributed to 
Raphael, are by Giulio Romano ; 
who has painted, on the roof, two 
small pictures, representing* Her¬ 
cules, some of the Muses, and 
other heathen divinities. The 
g*arden of the Villa contains three 
ancient subterranean Apartments, 
which are beautiful in point of 
architecture, and well preserved: 
they seem originally to have been 
adorned with arabesques, judging* 
from the remains now distinguish¬ 
able: and, here was found the 
superb basin of red porphyry 
which adorns the circular hall in 
the Vatican Museum. Beyond 
these subterranean apartments, 
and quite at the end of the garden, 
are a few balustrades ; said, by 
some authors, to mark the spot 
where the signal for commencing 
the games in the Circus Maximus 
was given. To the left of this 
spot is a large oblong Court, sup¬ 
posed to have been a Hippodrome; 
and a magnificent Hall, the roof 
of which is entire, and decorated 
with medallions in stucco x . 

The Garden of the Convent of 
S. Bonaventura contains ruins of 
the Aqueduct, erected by Nero, 
as a continuation of the Claudian 
aqueduct, to supply his golden 
house with water. 

From the Villa-Spada go back 
to the Arch of Titus, pass that of 
Constantine ; and, when nearly 
parallel with the Church of S. 
Gregorio sul Monte-Celio, turn to 

tation of the motion of the earth ; and the 
baths were supplied with sea-water, and 
the sulphureous waters of Albulae. 

(a) The Villa Spada was shown to me, 
with great civility and patience, by a man, 
in appearance, poverty-stricken ; who, 
when I offered him the usual fee, and, in¬ 
deed, strongly pressed him to accept it. 


[Ch. vxi. 

the right toward the Forum-Boa- 
rium, and you will find a door, 
leading, by a narrow flight of 
steps, to what is now called the 
Palazzo de ’ Cesari, in the Garden 
of the English College. Here are 
considerable vestiges of stately 
porticos, spacious halls, and num¬ 
berless arches, interspersed with 
ever-green oaks, laurels, flowering 
shrubs, aloes, and Indian figs; 
forming altogether a most pictu¬ 
resque and impressive scene. One 
part of these ruins completely 
overlooks the Circus Maximus, 
which lies immediately below it; 
and here is a terrace, probably, 
the site of the banqueting hall of 
the Emperors, whence Nero threw 
down his napkin, as the signal 
for beginning the games, when 
the populace were clamorous for 
their commencement; and where 
Caligula, on being roused from 
sleep, by a similar clamour, or¬ 
dered the Gladiators to drive away 
the people; in consequence of which 
cruel command, several were killed. 
The ancient pavement of the ter¬ 
race still remains entire: and, from 
this spot, the continuation of the 
Claudian Aqueduct, by Nero, may 
be seen to great advantage. Frag¬ 
ments of ancient paintings are 
discoverable throughout all the 
ruins of the Palazzo de’ Cesari. 

Circus Maximus, made, by 
Tarquinius Priscus, between the 
Palatine and Aventine hills. The 
length of this Circus is computed 
to have been four stadia, or fur¬ 
longs ; and its breadth the same: 
it contained a trench ten feet deep, 

answered, (while the blood mounted to his 
cheeks,) “ I take no money ; I am placed 
here, as a penance for my sins ; which are 
manifold. I have continued here three 
years ; how much longer I may be doomed 
to remain I know not; but I can accept 
no gratuity whatsoever.” 


ROME. 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

and as many broad, to receive 
water; together with seats for one 
hundred and fifty thousand spec¬ 
tators : it was much beautified by 
succeeding princes ; and particu¬ 
larly by Julius Caesar, Augustus, 
Caligula, Domitian, Trajan, and 
Heliogabalus ; and enlarged, to 
so vast an extent, as to receive, 
in their respective seats, two hun¬ 
dred and sixty thousand specta¬ 
tors : its form, with the trench and 
water running through its centre, 
may still be traced. 

Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul 
Monte-Cello, said to be built on 
the foundations of a Patrician 
house, and to retain its ancient 
shape. This church is finely si¬ 
tuated ; and in the adjoining Gar¬ 
den are three Chapels, built by 
S. Gregorio. The first, dedicated 
to his mother, S. Silvia, contains 
her statue, by Niccolo Cordieri ; 
frescos on the ceiling, by Guido ; 
and four saints in chiaroscuro, by 
the same master. The second 
Chapel contains two celebrated 
frescos ; the one painted by Do- 
menichino, the other by Guido, in 
order to prove which was the bet¬ 
ter artist. That done by Doine- 
nichino represents the flagellation 
of S. Andrew!! that by Guido 
represents the same Saint going 
to sufier martyrdom!! The figures 
of S. Peter and S. Paul, near the 
altar, are by Guido. The third 
Chapel contains a statue of S. 
Gregorio, begun by Buonaroti, 
and finished by Cordieri. This 
garden commands a beautiful view 
of the Palace of the Caesars y. 

Terme (li Tito. These Baths, 
which, twenty years since, were 
completely choked up with rubbish 
and "vegetable earth, apparently 

( y ) By entering the quadrangle, and ring¬ 
ing a bell on the right, you may always 
gain admittance to the Church and Chapels 


135 

thrown in to destroy them, are 
now open to the light of day; and 
exhibit beautiful frescos in as per¬ 
fect preservation as they could 
have been when first produced by 
the artist’s pencil near two thou¬ 
sand years ago. The Romans 
learnt the use of baths from the 
Greeks: and though, at first, em¬ 
ployed merely for the purposes of 
health, they, in time, became an 
object of luxury and magnificence. 
The Baths of Titus were smaller 
than those of Diocletian and Ca- 
racalla; but superior in point of 
architecture, and more elegantly 
ornamented: the lower part of the 
edifice served for bathing ; the 
upper part for academies and 
gymnastic exercises. Communi¬ 
cating with the Baths are ruins 
called the Palace of Titus ; where 
the group of Laocoon and his 
children was found: and, not far 
hence, the Belvedere-Antinous, 
or, according to Visconti, Mercury, 
was found likewise. Near this spot 
were the gardens of Mecsenas; 
in a building belonging to which 
Nero stood to see Rome in flames: 
and near this spot also were the 
houses of Horace and Virgil. 
The Baths of Titus are damp. 

To the east of the Palace and 
Baths of Titus, and enclosed 
within a garden are immense re¬ 
servoirs, called Sette Salle, which 
evidently belonged to the Baths, 
and are in tolerable preservation. 

Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte. 
This beautiful Church, not far 
distant from the Sette Salle, is 
erected upon that part of the 
Baths of Titus which was added 
by Domitian and Trajan: such, 
at least, seems to be the opinion 
of antiquaries ; because the brick- 

of S. Gregorio: they are, durin’g winter, 
clamp and cold. 


136 ROME. [Ch. VII. 


work in these Baths is very inferior 
to that in the Baths built by Titus. 

The modern edifice is adorned 
with twenty-four magnificent co¬ 
lumns, brought from Adrian’s 
Villa at Tivoli. The Vase for 
holy water is ancient. The high 
altar, erected about twenty years 
ago, is peculiarly rich in pre¬ 
cious marbles ; the paintings, 
which adorn its vicinity, were done 
by Antonio Cavalluccio, who lies 
buried here. The side aisles are 
embellished with landscapes, by 
Gasparo Poussin; the figures in 
which are by Niccolo Poussin; and 
the upper landscapes are remark¬ 
ably well preserved. The Chapel 
of the Madonna, at the end of the 
left side .aisle, is ornamented with 
paintings by Cavalluccio, and very 
fine marbles. The steps leading 
down to the Burial-Place under 
the high altar, and the burial- 
place itself, were designed by 
Pietro di Cortona: and here are 
other stairs, leading to the an¬ 
cient subterranean Church, which 
is a part of the Baths, called those 
of Titus, and famous for being 
the spot where Pope S. Silvestro 
held a council, assisted by Con¬ 
stantine and his mother. The 
mosaic pavement, and matted roof 
of the baths (on which perhaps 
were paintings,) still remain per¬ 
fect, as do the walls : and here 
you encounter no very damp air ; 
therefore Invalids may go down 
with safety. 

Chiesa di S. Pietro in Vincoli. 
This fine Church, which owes its 
present form to Antonio Sangallo, 
lias a double cupola, like that of 
S. Peter's. The three aisles are 
divided by twenty magnificent 
Doric columns of Grecian marble, 
taken from Diocletian’s Baths: 
the circular wall behind the high 
altar made a part of Titus's Baths; 


whence the pavement of the Sa¬ 
cristy likewise was taken. Here 
is a picture of S. Margherita, by 
Guercino. Here also is the Mo¬ 
nument of Julius ii., designed by 
Buonaroti, who died soon after he 
had finished the much-admired 
figure of Moses ; in consequence 
of which the other figures were 
done by Montelupo. The Mo¬ 
numents of Cardinals Margotti 
and Agucci were executed after 
the designs of Domenichino: and 
at the end of the tribuna is an 
ancient pontifical Chair in high 
preservation. The Sacristy con¬ 
tains a picture, by Domenichino, 
of S. Peter delivered from prison. 

Chiesa di S. Maria della Na- 
vicella, so called from the model 
of an ancient galley, said to have 
been a votive offering, and placed 
before it, by Leo x. This Church, 
designed by Raphael, and sup¬ 
posed to stand on the site of the 
ancient Castra Peregrina , or bar¬ 
racks for auxiliary soldiers, is em¬ 
bellished with fine columns of por¬ 
phyry and granite, and a frieze 
beautifully painted in chiaroscuro, 
by Giulio Romano and Pierino del 
Yaga. The Presbytery, likewise, 
was painted by the same artists ; 
as were two Altar-Pieces of the 
Chapels, one representing part of 
the Transfiguration, the other the 
Baptism of our Saviour. 

Near this spot is the Arch of 
the Consul Dolabella, over which 
Nero erected the Aqueduct that 
supplied his golden House with 
water. 

Chiesa di S. Stefano Rotondo, 
formerly the Temple of Claudius. 
This beautiful and interesting 
edifice was built by Agrippina, in 
honour of her husband Claudius ; 
destroyed by Nero, and rebuilt by 
Vespasian; which accounts for the 
columns not being uniform. It 


137 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

seems to have had two entrances. 
The interior part still retains the 
precise form, together with all the 
majesty of an ancient temple ; and 
is embellished with a double row 
of columns, fifty-eight in number, 
and chiefly granite. The roof is 
modern. This edifice was con¬ 
verted into a Christian Church by 
Pope S. Simplicius: it is, during 
winter, damp and cold z . 

Obelisk of the Piazza del Po- 
polo; said to have been made at 
Heliopolis, 522 years before the 
Christian sera. It was brought to 
Rome by Augustus ; found in the 
Circus Maximus ; and placed in 
its present situation by Sixtus v. 
Its height, from the ground to the 
top of the cross, is 112 feet. 

To record the exploits of heroes, 
and to decorate their temples and 
their tombs, seems to have been 
the origin of Egyptian obelisks: 
and most of those which now adorn 
Rome are engraved with hiero¬ 
glyphics ; which, could we under¬ 
stand them, mightthrow important 
lights on the history of past ages. 

Obelisk of the Trinitd de' 
Monti. This Obelisk formerly 
stood in the Circus of Sallust ; 
and was placed in its present 
situation by Pius vi.: it is forty- 
four feet and a half in height, 
without the pedestal, and of Egyp¬ 
tian granite a . 

Villa-Medici , now the French 
Academy. On the back-front of 
this Villa is a fine basso-rilievo of 
Hercules strangling the Nemean 
lion. The Garden of the Villa- 
Medici is always open to the 
public. 

(z) The churches of La Navicella, and 
S. Stefano Rotondo, are generally shut : 
but the Sacristan of the former lives in the 
vicinity ; and the Sacristan of the latter 
may be found daily, at the new Academy 
of S. Luke. 

(a) The Promenade on the Trinita de* 


Statues, and Obelisk, in the 
Piazza di Monte-Cavallo; so 
called, from the admirable sculp¬ 
ture with which it is embellished ; 
namely, two colossal figures, sup¬ 
posed to represent Castor and Pol¬ 
lux, each holding a horse. These 
twin-gods, the works of Phidias 
and Praxiteles, are esteemed the 
finest things of their description 
at Rome ; especially that done by 
the first-mentioned artist. They 
once adorned Athens; and are 
generally supposed to have been 
brought to Rome, from Alexan¬ 
dria, by Constantine, in whose 
Baths they were found ; though 
some authors tell us, they were 
sent to Nero, as a present, from 
Tiridates king of Armenia. The 
horses are ill executed, and chiefly 
modern. The Obelisk, which 
stands between the statues, was 
erected by Pius vi.: it is com¬ 
posed of red granite ; measures 
forty-five feet, without the pedes¬ 
tal ; and originally adorned the 
Mausoleum of Augustus b . 

Chiesa di S. Bernardo. This 
edifice, the ancient form and roof 
of which are quite perfect, merits 
notice, as belonging to Diocletian’s 
Baths. Some persons suppose it 
to have been a Calidarium bal¬ 
neum , or hot bath ; but the more 
general opinion is, that this ro¬ 
tunda, and the one opposite to it, 
near the Villa-Negroni, were tem¬ 
ples dedicated to Apollo and iEs- 
culapius. The convent and gar¬ 
den of the Monks of S. Bernardo, 
the church, convent, and garden 
of the Carthusians, the public 
granaries, together with a large 

Monti, begun by the French, and now 
nearly finished by the present Pope, is the 
pleasantest walk and drive at Rome. 

(b) The circular Basin belonging to the 
Fountain of Monte-Cavallo is said to be 
the largest piece of granite, of this descrip¬ 
tion, in Rome, 


133 


ROME. 


[Oh. VII. 


space, called Piazza di Termini, 
a corruption of the word Ther nice, 
all likewise belonged to Diocle¬ 
tian’s Baths ; which building seems 
to have been nearly of a square 
form, enclosing halis, where the 
youth were instructed, and where 
men of learning assembled to read 
their compositions; an open thea ¬ 
tre, where shows were exhibited 
in fine weather; the Ncitatio; the 
Sphceristerium; the Xystum; the 
Apodyterium; the IJypocaustam; 
and the different baths, namely, 
frigidarium, tepidarium, calda- 
rium, and laco nic urn. Three 
sides of the Natatio, where peo¬ 
ple swam in the open air, were 
bounded by porticos, (it occupied 
what is now the cloister of the 
Carthusians;) on each side of 
these porticos were Basilica and 
Dicetce, where public assemblies 
were held, and sumptuous enter¬ 
tainments given: adjoining to 
these apartments was an oblong 
room, probably the place for play¬ 
ing at ball c ; and, immediately be¬ 
hind the Natatio, was the Xys¬ 
tum, where the gladiators and 
wrestlers exhibited in bad weather: 
this is now the Church of S. Maria 
degli Angeli. The baths, pro¬ 
perly so named, extended in a 
straight line opposite to the Thea- 
tridium and Bibliotheca: the 
A podyterium, or great hall, where 
the bathers undressed and dressed 
themselves, was in the centre of 

(c) The ancient Ttomans played with 
several kinds of balls; namely, "the Iiar- 
pastwn, or foot-ball, which, being placed 
between two companies of young men, 
they strove who should drive it through the 
others’ goal: the PUa, so called from being 
stuffed with hair: the Follis, so called 
from being made of a bladder; and with 
this, old men and young children played : 
the Pnganica, a ball stuffed with feathers; 
which derived its name from villages, 
where it was chiefly seen: and the Tr/go- 
nalis, an appellation common to the PUa 
and Follis, and allusive to the form of the 


the baths. In the centre of the 
baths likewise was the IJypocaus - 
turn, or great stove ; whence hot 
water was conveyed, in pipes, and 
hot air, in Hues, to the different 
chambers: and this part of the 
building, which is still preserved, 
serves as an Atrium to the Car¬ 
thusian church. In the Villa- 
Negroni are remains of the great 
reservoir ; and round the exterior 
of the Baths were walks shaded 
with plane-trees d . 

Chiesa di JS. Maria degli An¬ 
geli. Pius iv. dedicated Diocle¬ 
tian’s Baths to sacred uses ; be¬ 
cause the Christians who built 
them suffered martyrdom: and 
Buonaroti, who Avas employed to 
erect the church, finding, among 
the ruins of these baths, an im¬ 
mense apartment, supported by 
stupendous columns of oriental 
granite, (the Xystum already men¬ 
tioned,) formed it into the present 
Church of S. Maria degli Angeli. 
The entrance to this majestic edi¬ 
fice, which may vie with S. Peter’s 
in beauty, uvas a Caldarium be¬ 
longing - to the baths, and contains 
the Monuments of Carlo Maratta 
and Salvator Rosa. The church 
itself is in the shape of a Greek 
cross: the nave is 179 feet long ; 
its height 105 feet; and the an¬ 
tique columns, already mentioned, 
are sixteen feet, in circumference 
by forty-three high. The pave¬ 
ment is beautiful, and contains a 

tennis-courts where these balls were used. 

( (t ) The expense of bathing in a public 
bath at Home was equivalent to about one 
halfpenny for an adult; but, for a child, 
nothing: the rich, however, had their per- 
sons rubbed witli oils and ointments of 
great value. Hot baths were only used at 
a stated hour of the evening. Each man 
stopped at the bath which he judged pro¬ 
per for himself: and if he made use of the 
Laconicum, lie returned through the dif¬ 
ferent hot baths; and was thus cooled gra 
dually, before he reached the apodyterium 


Ch. VII.]- 

celebrated meridian by Mon sig¬ 
nore Bianchini. Near the high 
altar is a picture, by Carlo Ma- 
ratta, of the Baptism of our Sa¬ 
viour, much injured by time ; and 
another of the martyrdom of S. 
Sebastian, by Domenichino, in 
good preservation!! This church 
also contains a fine picture of the 
fall of Simon Magus, by Fompeio 
Battoni; and another of S. Peter 
raising Tabitha, by Placido Cos¬ 
tanza. 

The Pope's Oil-Cellar, near S. 
Maria degli Angeli, merits notice, 
as it is a well-preserved part of 
Diocletian’s Baths. 

Obelisk o f S. Maria Maggiore. 
This obelisk is of red Egyptian 
granite ; and forty-three feet in 
height, without the pedestal: it 
was brought to Rome by the Em¬ 
peror Claudius ; and served as one 
of the ornaments to the Mauso¬ 
leum of Augustus ; whence it was 
taken, by Sixtus v., and placed 
in its present situation. 

Column in the Piazza di S. 
Maria Maggiore. This Corin¬ 
thian fluted column, of Parian 
marble, was taken from the Tem¬ 
ple of Peace ; and measures fifty- 
eight, feet in height, without its 
pedestal. 

Basilica di S. Maria Mag - 
giore e . This Church, which 
stands on the summit of the Es- 
quiline Hill, was erected upon 
the foundations of an ancient 
temple of Juno-Lucina, about the 
year 352; and afterward enlarged 
by Sixtus in. It. was likewise 
repaired by Benedict xiv. ; who 
found, about eight palms below 

( c ) Several of these ancient Courts of 
Justice, called Basilica ?, were converted 
into churches, and still retain their original 
appellation. 

(/) These Mosaic Pavements of the 
middle ages were called Opus Alcxan * 


m 

the pavement of the church, a 
black and white mosaic marble 
pavement, which is of that kind in¬ 
vented by Alexander Severus f . 
The nave is supported by antique 
Ionic columns, thirty-six of which 
are white marble, and four granite. 
The Baldacchino is supported by 
antique columns of porphyry. The 
arch which separates the choir 
from the nave is adorned with 
mosaics of the fifth century. The 
chapel of Sextus v., built after the 
designs of Fontana, is incrusted 
with fine marbles, and adorned 
with Corinthian pilasters, bassi-ri- 
lievi, and paintings. On the right 
stand the tomb and statue of Six¬ 
tus v.: in the middle is the altar 
of the Holy Sacrament, decorated 
with a magnificent tabernacle, 
supported by four angels of bronze 
gilt; and on the left, the tomb of 
Pius v. Among the paintings 
those most admired are, the An¬ 
nunciation, by Pompeio Battoni, 
and the Holy Family, by Agos- 
tino Masucci. The Borghese- 
Chapel, built by Paul v., is pecu¬ 
liarly rich in marbles, paintings, 
and sculpture. On the right stands 
the tomb of the above-named 
Pontiff", surmounted by his statue: 
here, likewise, are statues of S. 
Basil and David, by Niccolo Cor- 
dieri; and the tomb and statue of 
Clement vm.; with statues of 
Aaron and S. Bernardo, by Cor- 
dieri of Lorrain. The paintings 
between the windows, and on the 
arches above the tombs, are by 
Guido !! 'I’he altar of the Ma¬ 
donna is magnificently adorned 
with oriental jasper, agate, and 

drinum , from the inventor. Mosaics, 
however, seem to have been originally in¬ 
vented by the Persians: for they were used 
in Persia during the reign of Artaxerxes ; 
thence carried into Assyria, thence to 
Greece, and, some ages after, to Rome. 


ROME. 


140 


ROME. 


lapis lazuli; and on its entabla¬ 
ture is a fine basso-rilievo. The 
frescos above, and round the altar, 
and in the vault and angles of the 
cupola, are by the Cav. d’Arpino. 
The Sforza-Chapel was designed 
by Buonaroti. This Basilica is 
so loaded with gilding and other 
ornaments, that it resembles a 
place of public diversion more than 
a Christian temple. 

Obelisk of S. Giovanni in La- 
terano. This obelisk is the largest 
at Rome ; and supposed to have 
been even more lofty once, than 
it is at present. It was originally 
placed in the Temple of the Sun, 
at Thebes, by Rameses King of 
Egypt, transported to Rome by 
the son of Cqnstantine, and erect¬ 
ed, in its present situation, by 
Sixtus v.: its height, without base 
or pedestal, is one hundred and 
fifteen feet, and its diameter nine. 

Battisterio di Costantino. 
This edifice was built by Con¬ 
stantine, and repaired by Gregory 
xiii. and Urban vin,; its form is 
octagon; and three steps lead 
down to the font, which is an an¬ 
cient tomb of marble of Ponsevero. 
The dome is supported by fine 
porphyry columns, with an antique 
entablature; and adorned with 
paintings representing the life of 
S. John Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. 
Other paintings, on the walls, 
represent the vision of Constan¬ 
tine ; his battle with Maxentius ; 
and the destruction of the Idols ; 
which last is by Carlo Maratta. 
In one of the Chapels are two 
curious fluted pillars of verde an¬ 
tique ; in the other, two columns 
of oriental alabaster; and the ori- 

( g ) The name of Laterano is supposed 
to be derived from Plautius Lateranus, 
Consul elect, who engaged with Seneca 
and others in the great conspiracy against 
Nero, and thereby lost his life : hence his 


[Ch. VII. 

ginal entrance to this Baptistery 
is adorned with two noble pillars 
of porphyry and an antique en¬ 
tablature. 

Basilica di S. Giovanni in 
Laterano s. This stately edifice 
was erected by Constantine ; and 
called the mother church of Rome; 
though the church of S. Martin 
and S. Luke is really so. The 
great portico is adorned with a 
colossal statue of Constantine, 
found in his baths ; the front of 
the building, toward the Naples- 
gate, is beautiful; and the bronze- 
door, ornamented with bassi-ri- 
lieviy was taken from the Temple 
of Saturn. The interior of the 
church is divided, by four rows of 
pilasters, into one large, and four 
small aisles; and the centre aisle, or 
nave, is adorned with statues of 
the Apostles ; among which are 
Saints Thomas and Bartholomew, 
by Le Gros ; and S. Andrew, S. 
James minor, and S. John, by 
Rusconi. The pavement is mo¬ 
saic. The altar of the Holy Sa¬ 
crament is adorned with four 
magnificent fluted columns of 
bronze gilt, supposed to have 
been taken from the Temple of 
Jupiter Capitolinus ; and, above 
these columns, is a fresco, by the 
Cav. d'Arpino, representing the 
ascension of our Saviour into 
Heaven! The tabernacle, formed 
of precious marbles, is placed be¬ 
tween two Angels of bronze gilt, 
and four columns of verde antique. 
At the top of the centre-aisle, 
near the high-altar, are two noble 
columns of red granite ; and, 
near the door leading to the Bap ¬ 
tistery, two fluted columns of 

palace, having been confiscated, probably 
remained in possession of the Emperors, 
till Constantine gave it to the Church, and 
built the Basilica of S. Giovanni, properly 
the Pope’s Cathedral. 


ROME. 


141 


Ch. VII.] 

giallo antico, deemed the finest 
specimens extant of that marble. 

1 n this church are the Tombs of 
the Cav. d’ Arpino, Andrea Sac- 
chi, and Boniface vm.; the last 
of which is ornamented with a 
fresco, supposed to have been 
done by Giotto, and representing 
Boniface, between two Cardinals, 
publishing- the first jubilee of the 
holy year, in 1300. The Corsini- 
Chapel (to the left of the great 
door; is particularly elegant ; and 
was erected by Clement xn., in 
honour of bis ancestor S. Andrea 
Corsini. Over the altar, between 
two verde antique columns, is a 
portrait, in mosaic, beautifully co¬ 
pied from a painting- by Guido, of 
S. Andrea Corsini. On one side 
of the chapel is the monument of 
Clement xii. ; said to have been 
once the tomb of Agrippa : it was 
taken from the Pantheon ; and is, 
in point of shape, the most beau¬ 
tiful sarcophagus extant. On the 
opposite side, stands the tomb of 
Cardinal Neri Corsini. In this 
chapel, likewise, are four statues, 
representing the four cardinal vir¬ 
tues ; one of which, Fortitude, is 
by Rusconi, and much admired; 
as are the four bassi-rilievi in the 
upper part of the chapel. The 
pavement is beautiful ; and the 
subterranean part of this building 
merits notice ; as it is simple and 
appropriate, and contains a fine 
Pietd. In the Sacristy of S. Gio¬ 
vanni in Laterano is an Annun¬ 
ciation, designed, if not executed, 
by Buonaroti. 

Scala Santa. This Edifice is 
celebrated for containing twenty- 
seven steps of white marble, re¬ 
puted to have belonged to the 
Palace of Pilate. 

Not far hence is an Arch, or 
Tribune, adorned with the fa¬ 
mous Triclinium of S. Leo; a 


mosaic originally placed in the 
eating room of the palace of that 
Pope, to perpetuate the event of 
his having crowned Charlemagne 
Emperor of the west. 

Anjiteatro Cast reuse. This 
building now makes part of the 
wall of Rome, near the Naples- 
gatc ; though it formerly stood on 
the outside of the city: it was 
called Castrensis, because appro¬ 
priated to military games, and 
combats between soldiers and wild 
beasts. The interior of the build¬ 
ing may be seen in a garden on 
the right of the Church of S. 
Croce in Gerusalemme ; nothing, 
however, remains, except a few 
arches. The exterior part, which 
was adorned with two rows of co¬ 
lumns, should be viewed from the 
outside of the Naples-gate. 

Basilica di Santa Croce in 
Gerusalemme. This Church, one 
of the seven Basilicce of Rome, 
was erected by Constantine near 
an ancient Sessorium ; which 
seems to have been converted into 
the entrance of the church ; and 
makes a magnificent vestibule. 
The approach from S. Giovanni 
in Laterano to S. Croce in Geru¬ 
salemme, is particularly hand¬ 
some ; and exhibits fine remains 
of the Aurelian Wall of Rome: 
the latter church derives its name 
from part of the Cross which S. 
Helena brought from Jerusalem, 
and deposited here. On each side 
of the great door is a Vase for 
holy water, very similar to those 
in the Cathedral at Siena; and, 
like them, containing marble fishes 
beautifully executed. The nave 
is supported by eight fine columns 
of Egyptian granite ; and its 
ceiling adorned with a fresco by- 
Conrad Giaquinto ; who likewise 
painted that part of the ceiling of 
the Tribuna which is over the 


142 


HOME. 


high-altar: the other part was 
done by Pinturicchio, and repre¬ 
sents the finding of the Cross. 
The high-altar is adorned with 
four rare columns of breccia coral- 
lina, and an ancient sarcophagus 
of basalt. The pavement of the 
church is antique. This edifice 
contains the subterranean Chapel 
of S. Helena, adorned with cu¬ 
rious ancient mosaics, and an in¬ 
scription in her honour. 

On the right, coming out of the 
church, is a Garden, which exhi¬ 
bits considerable remains of a 
building, called the Temple of 
Venus, and Cupid ; but, more 
probably, one of the halls, or 
temples, which adorned the Baths 
of S. Helena. This Garden like¬ 
wise exhibits magnificent remains 
of the Claudian Aqueduct: and, 
not far hence, was an Altar con¬ 
secrated to bad Fortune. 

Chiesa di S. Bibiana h . Here 
are eight antique columns ; and a 
fine antique sarcophagus of ori¬ 
ental alabaster, with a leopard’s 
head in its centre : and here, like¬ 
wise, is a celebrated statue of S. 
Bibiana, by Bernini! 

Ternpio di Minerva-Medica. 
This picturesque ruin stands in a 
garden, the door of which is ge¬ 
nerally open. The temple is round 
without, but decagon within ; and 
seems to have had six windows 
and nine niches for statues. Here 
was found a celebrated statue of 
Minerva with the serpent at her 
feet: but, whether this building 
was dedicated to Minerva-Medica 
or not, seems uncertain. In the 
same garden is the Aruntian Se¬ 
pulchre ; together with subterra¬ 
nean vaulted Apartments, sup¬ 
posed to have been the receptacles 
of the Plebeian Dead • whose 


[Ch. VII. 

ashes were consigned to small 
earthenware urns, simply inscribed 
with a name, and an exclamation 
of sorrow. 

Arco di Gallieno, commonly 
called Arco di S. Vito. Accord¬ 
ing to the inscription on this arch, 
it was erected in honour of the 
Emperor whose name it bears. It 
is Doric ; and proves the decline 
of architecture in the days of Gal- 
lien us. 

Remains of five Aqueducts are 
discoverable in this quarter of the 
city ; namely, the Marcian , Te- 
pulan , Julian , Claudian, and the 
Anio-novus ; and near the church 
of S. Eusebio is a considerable 
ruin of a Cast ell urn of one of these 
aqueducts. 

Chiesa di S. Prassede. The 
high altar of this ancient Edifice 
is adorned with a handsome bal- 
daccliino, supported by four fine 
columns of porphyry ; the tribuna 
is adorned with ancient mosaics ; 
and leading to it are magnificent 
steps of rosso antico, composed of 
the largest blocks extant of that 
rare marble, the fauns of the Ca¬ 
pitol and Vatican excepted. In 
this church is a column, supposed 
to be that our Saviour was fasten¬ 
ed to, when scourged. In the Sa¬ 
cristy is a painting of the Flagel¬ 
lation, by Giulio Romano; and 
in one of the Chapels are three 
paintings relative to the life of 
S. CarloBorromeo, by an English 
Painter, named Sterne : they are 
finely executed, and dated i 741 . 
This church leads to the Cata¬ 
combs. 

Campidoofio. This hill, origi¬ 
nally called Mons Saturnius, and 
afterward Tar pci us, from Tar- 
peia,.who admitted the Sabines into 
the fortress erected here, was, ac- 


(h) It is difficult to gain admission to this church, unless it be very early in the morning. 


ROME. 


143 


Ch. VII.J 

cording 1 to tradition, denominated 
Capitolc, or Capitolium, because, 
when Tarquin the elder ordered 
the foundations of a temple of 
Jupiter to be laid on this spot, the 
workmen, while digging, found a 
human head : in consequence of 
which the augurs predicted, that 
Rome would become mistress of 
the world. 

When we recollect the number 
of splendid edifices which adorned 
the ancient Capitol, we are led to 
think its extent must have been 
immense: but, when we view the 
spot, and see how circumscribed 
it is, we can only account for the 
number of its temples by conclud¬ 
ing, that here, as in various parts 
of the city, one edifice was fre¬ 
quently destroyed to make room 
for another. The square of the 
ancient Capitol was adorned with 
porticos by Scipio Nasica ; and, 
in its centre was the triumphal 
arch of Nero. The most ancient 
temple was that of Jupiter Fere- 
trius , erected by Romulus ; and 
its dimensions were only ten feet 
in length, and five in breadth 1 . 
The temple of Jupiter-Capito- 
linus, finished by the younger 
Tarquin, was much larger; and 
when consumed by lightning, 
which happened more than once, 
seems to have increased in mag¬ 
nitude every time it rose from its 
ashes. The last person who re¬ 
built this temple was Domitian ; 
and he is said to have expended 
twelve thousand talents in gilding 
it. Here were deposited the spoils 
of conquered nations, as offerings 
to the gods from the Senate, 
Consuls, and Emperors of Rome. 
The statue of Jupiter was gold ; 

(i)The statues of the gods, placed in the 
temples of Rome, during the days of Ro¬ 
mulus, were made of potters’ clay; and the 
sacred statues of the Capitol, wlreu injured 


and so, likewise, was that of Vic¬ 
tory ; which is said to have weighed 
three hundred and twenty pounds. 
Here, also, were the temples of 
J upiter-Moneta, Fortuna-Pri- 
mo - genita, Fortuna - Privata , 
Fortuna-Viscola, Vejovis , Isis, 
Sera pis, fyc.’ embellished by sta¬ 
tues without and within ; so that 
the Capitol was denominated The 
Hall of the Gods. Of these mag¬ 
nificent edifices, however, scarcely 
a wreck remains: so that the mo¬ 
dern Capitol bears no resemblance 
to the ancient. The present steps, 
and two side buildings of the lat¬ 
ter, were planned by Buonaroti, at 
the command of Paul hi. : and the 
front of the Senator's house was 
likewise rebuilt, after the design of 
Buonaroti. At the bottom of the 
steps are two Lionesses, in basalt, 
of Egyptian workmanship ; and, 
on the left side, two arches, under 
which are large stones, supposed 
to have made part of the foundation 
of the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. 
On the top of the steps are two 
colossal Statues, reputed to be 
Greek sculpture; but more pro¬ 
bably Roman; one represents 
Castor and the other Pollux, with 
their respective horses. On a line 
with these statues are beautiful 
Trophies, called those of Marius, 
but rather supposed to have been 
done in honour of Trajan’s victory 
over the Dacians: they once 
.adorned a Castellumof the Julian 
Aqueduct; and Piranesi calls 
them trophies of Augustus. On 
the same line, likewise, are Statues 
of the two Sons of Constantine ; 
together with two Roman mile¬ 
stones; that numbered “ I,” and 
standing on the right, being the 

by time or accident, were not destroyed, 
but placed in subterraneous depositories, 
called Favissa. 


144 


ROME. 


column which anciently marked 
the first mile of the Via-Appia; 
that, on the left, modern. In the 
centre of the square is a bronze 
equestrian Statue of Marcus Au¬ 
relius, once g-ilt k !!! This is the 
only antique bronze equestrian 
statue extant. Fronting' the steps 
is the Senator's House, which 
stands on the ruins of the ancient 
Tabularium, and under the en¬ 
trance-door, is a Statue of Rome 
triumphant, in Parian marble 
draped with porphyry: a recum¬ 
bent Statue of the Nile ; and an¬ 
other of the Tiber, both in Greek 
marble. On the right side of the 
square is the Palazzo de’ Conser- 
vatori; and on the left the Museo- 
Capitolino. Beyond the former, 
on the south side of the hill, are 
steps which lead to the spot 
where stood the temple of Jupiter 
Capitolinus; near which, in a 
Garden, belonging- to a house 
numbered 139, is that part of the 
Tarpeian Bock whence, it is sup¬ 
posed, criminals were thrown down 
into the Forum 1 . The garden 
fronts Caracalla's Baths; and the 
rock, in this place, may perhaps 
be sixty feet high at the present 
moment ; and formerly it must 
evidently have been much more ; 
as the level of the Forum is full 
twenty feet higher now than it 
was originally. 

Chiesa di is. Maria d'Aracali, 
anciently the Temple of Jupiter 
Feretrius. The steps leading up 
to this church, from the side of the 
Campus Marti us, are an hundred 
and twenty-four in number, and 
the marble of which they are made 
was taken from the temple of 


[Ch. VII. 

Jupiter Quirinus, on the Quirinal 
hill. The interior of the edifice is 
supported by twenty-two antique 
columns, chiefly Egyptian gra¬ 
nite ; and the third column on the 
left (entering by the great door,) 
bears this inscription : “ A Cvbi- 
cvlo Augustorum m . It is said 
that Augustus, about the time of 
our Saviour’s birth, erected here 
an altar, under the name of Ara 
Primogeniti Dei , now corrupted 
into Aracceli; and an altar, said 
to be that above-mentioned, is still 
preserved in this church, and stands 
between the high-altar and sa¬ 
cristy. The choir behind the high- 
altar contains a picture, by Ra¬ 
phael, of the Holy Family, which 
was injured, and has been ill re¬ 
stored. The Chapel of S. Fran¬ 
cesco is finely painted, by Trevi- 
sani ; and here, likewise, is a Cha¬ 
pel painted by Pinturicchio and 
Luca Signorelli. 

Chiesa di S. Pietro in Carcere t 
or, more properly, S. Giuseppe. 
On the right, going down from 
the Capitoline hill to this church, 
are large stones, belonging pro¬ 
bably to the ancient Tabularium. 
Under the church is an ancient 
Prison, built by Ancus Marti us, 
and called II Carcere Mamertino: 
it is quite perfect, and well worth 
seeing, though cold and damp. 
Here S. Peter was confined ; and, 
in the lowest part of this prison, 
near a small column to which the 
Apostle was bound, is a spring of 
water, said to have issued forth 
miraculously, that he might bap¬ 
tize the two gaolers, and forty- 
seven other persons, all of whom 
afterward suffered martyrdom. 


(A) It was found near the Scala Santa, Emperor ; and particularly praises the 
on the spot where the house of his grand- head of the horse. 

father, Annins Verus, is said to have stood. ( l ) Dionysius of Halicarnassus says, that 
Winckelmann supposes the statue of the criminals were thrown down from the 
horse to be more ancient than that of the Tarpeian Rock into the Forum. 

(*») The Cubicularii were officers of the bed-chamber belonging to the imperial Court. 


Ch. VII.] 

Palazzo del Senatore di Roma . 
The view from the Tower which 
crowns this building, is particularly 
worth notice, as it exhibits all 
the ancient edifices of the city, 
and shows their respective situa¬ 
tions. 

Palazzo de' Conservatori. In 
the quadrangle, beyond the arcade, 
are statues of Rome triumphant, 
and the weeping Province! two 
Dacian Kings, and two Egyptian 
Divinities, all in the same line. 
The quadrangle likewise contains 
a Group of a Lion devouring a 
Horse ! the Bust, and one Hand, 
of a colossal statue of Commodus; 
the Bust of Domitian ; and im¬ 
mense Feet, and one Hand of a 
mutilated colossal statue of Apollo. 
The arcade contains a Statue of 
Julius Caesar—Ditto of Augustus, 
done apparently after the battle 
of Actium,by the prow of a galley 
with which it is adorned—a Bac¬ 
chante—a rostral Column—and a 
Lion on a pedestal, which bears 
au inscription of the time of A- 
drian. To the right of the arcade 
are eight rooms, recently adorned 
with Busts, many of which were 
taken from the Pantheon ; and on 
the staircase, opposite to these 
rooms, are four bassi-rilievi, which 
originally belonged to the trium¬ 
phal Arch of Marcus Aurelius on 
the Corso; here likewise is a basso- 
rilievo , (found in the Forum,) of 
Curtius leaping into the gulf; and, 
on the landing-place, are two more 
bassi-rilievi, taken from the Arch 
of Aurelius. 

On this landing-place is a door 
which leads to the apartments not 
open to the public, but which the 
Custode is happy to show for a 
trifling gratuity. 

(«) Cicero tells us, that, in his time, the 
turrets of the Capitol, the statues of the gods, 
and the image of the infant Romulus sucking 


145 

The first room contains Paint¬ 
ings, by the Cav.d’Arpino ; name¬ 
ly, the battle of the Horatii and 
Curiatii—the battle of Tullus Hos- 
tilius with the army of Veii!—the 
discovery of Romulus and Remus 
—Romulus founding Rome—the 
sacrifice of Niuna Pompilius, and 
institution of the Vestal Virgins ; 
and the rape of the Sabines. 

The second room contains Paint¬ 
ings by Laurenti; namely, Junius 
Brutus condemning his sons to 
death for having conspired against 
the Republic—Horatius Codes, on 
the Sublician bridge, opposing the 
Etrurians—Mutius Seaevola burn¬ 
ing his own hand in presence of 
Porsenna, after having killed one 
of the Etrurian Officers, whom he 
mistook for the King—and the 
battle in which the Tarquins were 
defeated. 

The third room contains a 
Frieze representing the triumph 
of Marius, by Daniello da Vol- 
terra i—a Picture of S. Francesca 
Romana, by Romanelli ; and a 
dead Christ, by Cosimo Piazza— 
the Statue of the bronze wolf, 
said to have been struck with light¬ 
ning when Caesar fell! This sta¬ 
tue is evidently of high antiquity, 
and perhaps the work of an Etrus¬ 
can artist 11 —a bronze Bust of Ju¬ 
nius Brutus !!—two mosaic tables 
taken from Adrian’s Villa—a Bust 
of Julius Caesar—ditto of Apollo 
—a triform-Diann °—a Bust of 
Adrian—and a basso-relievo re¬ 
presenting the temple of Janus, or, 
according to some opinions, the 
gate of Eternity. 

The fourth room contains a 
bronze Statue of a Youth, said to 
be the shepherd Martius, taking a 
thorn out of his foot!!—a Bust in 

the wolf, were struck down by lightning. 

(o) Emblematical of her sovereignty over 
Hell, Earth, and Heaven. 


ROME. 


h 


146 


ROME. 


basso-rilievo of Mithridates ! and 
the Fasti Consulares ! ! p 

The fifth room contains a Bust, 
in rosso antico, called Appius Clau¬ 
dius—a bust of Buonaroti—a bust 
of Medusa, by Bernini—and a bust 
of Tiberius; together with two 
Ducks, in bronze, said to have 
been found in the Tarpeian Rock, 
and to be the representation of 
those ducks which saved the Ca¬ 
pitol. Here, likewise, are the fol¬ 
lowing Paintings: a Holy Family, 
by Giulio Romano; and the Olym¬ 
pic games, attributed to Zuccari. 

The fifth room contains a Frieze 
painted by Annibale Caracci, and 
representing the military achieve¬ 
ments of Scipio Africanus—Ta¬ 
pestry, taken from the designs of 
Rubens—Busts of Sappho ! So¬ 
crates! Ariadne! and SabinaPop- 
psea ! the second wife of Nero. 

The sixth room contains Fres¬ 
cos by Pietro Perugino, who has 
represented Hannibal in Capua—• 
Rome triumphant over Sicily, &;c. 
Here, likewise, are Statues of Vir¬ 
gil, Cicero, and Cybele. 

The seventh apartment is a 
Chapel, on the ceiling of which 
M. A. Caravaggio has represented 
the Deity. Here, also, are paint¬ 
ings of S. Cecilia, by Romanelli! 
and the four Evangelists, by Ca¬ 
ravaggio, together with an altar- 
piece, by Nucci. 

The eighth room has a door 
finely carved, by Algardi. 

The next story of this building 
contains the Picture Gallery, 
which is open to the public every 
Sunday and Thursday morning, 
from eleven till four o’clock. Some 
of the most striking pictures in 
the first room are ; No. 2, the Ma¬ 
donna, our Saviour, and Saints, 

(p) These precious remains of antiquity 
were found during the Pontificate of Paul 
in., near the church of S. Maria Libera- 


[Ch. VII. 

copied by Bonatti, from Paolo 
Veronese—4, the sacrifice of Iphi- 
genia, by Pietro da Cortona— 
5, the portrait of a lady, by Bron¬ 
zino—6, S. Lucia, by Benvenuto 
Garofolo!—9, Vanity, by Titian! 
—15, the rape of the Sabines, by 
Pietro da Cortona!—IS, a por¬ 
trait, by Velasquez—33, Hagai- 
driven from the house of Abra¬ 
ham, by Francesco Mola—36, 
Charity, by Annibale Caracci!— 
37, Bacchus and Ariadne, school 
of Guido—3S, the Sibyl Persica, 
by Guercino!!!—39, the Ma- 
donna, our Saviour, S. Cecilia, 
and other Saints, by Annibale 
Caracci!—40, the Madonna, our 
Saviour, and S. Francesco, by 
Annibale Caracci—41, the Holy 
Family, by Benvenuto Garofolo— 
4*2, Mary Magdalene washing our 
Saviour’s feet; a miniature, by 
M. F. Zibaldi Subleras, copied 
from the original of her husband ! 
—43, the marriage of S. Caterina, 
by Correggio—44, the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by Albano!— 
45, S. Maria Maddalena, by Tin¬ 
toretto!—46, David with the 
head of Goliath by Romanelli— 
4S, the communion of S. Giro¬ 
lamo, by Agostino Caracci!—51, 
S. John Baptist, by Daniello da 
Volterra!—52, Christ disputing 
with the Doctors, by Valentino !— 
53, the Cuimean Sibyl, by Do¬ 
rn enichino!!—60, S. John Bap¬ 
tist, by Guercino—63, a land¬ 
scape, with the figure of the Mag¬ 
dalene, Caracci school—64, the 
Magdalene, by Albano—35, the 
triumph of Bacchus, by Pietro da 
Cortona—67, S. Cecilia, by Ro¬ 
manelli—70, the beatified Spirit, 
by Guido!—76, Romulus and Re¬ 
mus discovered with the wolf, at- 

trice, in the Forum Romannm, and pro¬ 
bably in that part which belonged to the 
Comitium. 


Ch. VII.] 

tributed to Rubens—S6, the Ma¬ 
donna adoring- our Saviour, by 
Pietro da Cortona—S9, a por¬ 
trait, by Titian—90, Meleager in 
chiaroscuro , by Polidoro da Ca¬ 
ravaggio. 

Some of the most striking Pic¬ 
tures in the second room are; 
No. 2, a copy of Raphael’s Ga¬ 
latea, by Pietro da Cortona—6, 
the adoration of the Magi, by Ga- 
rofolo—11, a landscape, by Claude 
Lorrain —12, Ditto by Ditto— 
25, Love, by Guido—33, an Ecce 
Homo, by Baroceio—37, the wo¬ 
man detected in adultery, by Ti¬ 
tian—40, Europa, by Guido!— 
41, Alexander’s victory over Da¬ 
rius, by Pietro da Cortona!—43, 
a head, by Titian—44, Polyphe¬ 
mus, by Guido—47, the Presenta¬ 
tion in the Temple, supposed to 
be by Fra Bartolomeo—48, the 
Holy Family, by Andrea Sacchi 
—57, the pool of Silome, by Do- 
menichino; (parts of this small 
picture are beautiful)—58, a land¬ 
scape by Claude Lorrain—60, a 
Presepio 9, by Garofolo—62, the 
Madonna, our Saviour, and S. 
John, by Ditto—S3, the judgment 
of Solomon, by Giacomo Bassano 
—65, the raising of S. Petronilla’s 

T (q) This is a representation of our Sa¬ 
viour in the manger, attended by the blessed 
Virgin, Joseph, 8$c. There is another kind 
of Presepio exhibited in Roman Catholic 
Countries at Christinas ; and consisting of 
our Saviour, as an Int'Ant, the blessed Vir¬ 
gin, Joseph, the wise Men of the East, 
camels, <&c.; all wrought in wax, and 
sometimes well executed. The best of 
these exhibitions at Rome is in the Church 
of S. Maria d’Aracceli. 

(r) Those persons who wish to see the 
Museums of the Capitol and Vatican to 
advantage should visit them by torch¬ 
light, as the torch, like Promethian fire, 
makes every statue live; in consequence 
of which, perhaps, the most stupendous 
efforts of the Grecian chisel were originally 
placed in subterranean baths. 

For seeing the Vatican Museum, four 
large wax torches, weighing about three 


147 

body from the grave, and the as¬ 
cension of her spirit into Heaven, 
by Guercino!!!—72, a Gipsy tell¬ 
ing a youth his fortune, by Ca¬ 
ravaggio !—73, the Madonna, our 
Saviour, and Angels, by Pcru- 
gino—76, a Soldier seated, by 
Salvator Rosa—77, a half-length 
figure of S. Girolamo, by Pietro 
Facini—7S, a portrait of Pe- 
trarca, by Giovanni Bellino—79, 
a landscape, by Domenichino— 
80, a portrait of Buonaroti, by 
himself!—82, a portrait of Gio¬ 
vanni Bellino, by himself—86, a 
Witch, by Salvator Rosa—89, S. 
Sebastiano, by Lodovico Caracci 
—93, Augustus and Cleopatra, by 
Guercino—109, S. Barbara, ahalf- 
length figure, by Domenichino— 
111, the Holy Family, by Parmi- 
giano—113, S. Cristoforo, by Tin¬ 
toretto—114, S. Cecilia, by Lo¬ 
dovico Caracci!—116, two Phi¬ 
losophers, by Calabrese — 120, 
the Graces, by Palma Giovane 
—123, Europa, by Paolo Vero¬ 
nese ! 

Museo Capitolino , open to the 
public every Sunday and Thurs¬ 
day morning, from twelve till four 
o’clock 1- . 

Some of the most striking ef- 

pounds and a half each, and costing alto¬ 
gether about six scudi, are requisite. For 
seeing the Museum of the Capitol, two 
small wax torches, costing about twenty 
pauls-the two, are sufficient. Admission, 
however, cannot be obtained to either Mu¬ 
seum, for the purpose of viewing the statues 
by torch-light, without an order from the 
Pope’s Maggiordomo; which order never 
extends to more than fifteen persons at the 
same time ; and but seldom to so many. 

It is expected that every party shall come 
furnished with wax torches: and it is like¬ 
wise expected that each party shall give, at 
the Capitol, to the Custode who shews the 
statues, and his attendants from four to five 
scudi, provided there be fires in one or two 
of the apartments ; and, at the Vatican, 
from seven to eight scudi, according to the 
number of fires in the apartments. 

L 2 


ROME. 


148 

forts of the chisel, in this magni¬ 
ficent collection, are ; 

Quadrangle; No. 1, a colossal 
Statue of the Ocean ! 

Arcade; No. 1, Endymion and 
his dog, the pedestal fine—3, a 
colossal Statue of Minerva—4, 
fragment of a statue of Hercules! 
5, Apollo—7, a Bacchante, semi- 
colossal. 

Over the door of the Director's 
Apartment four Consular Fasces. 
No. 9, the Dacian Province—10, 
a colossal head ot Cybele—12, 
the Capital of a Doric column, 
taken from Caracal la’s Baths—17, 
Isis, in rare basalt—20, Diana— 
21, Hercules—22, Isis, in red 
oriental granite—23, a colossal 
Statue of Diana—25, Polyphe¬ 
mus—26, Mercury—27, a sepul¬ 
chral Urn—28, Adrian in a sacer¬ 
dotal habit—30, Jove armed with 
thunder—31, a Statue of Mars, 
the head and armour antique, the 
rest restored—32, Hercules killing 
the Hydra. 

Canopo. The statues contained 
in this apartment are said to have 
been found in the Canopus of 
Adrian’s Villa : it is supposed, 
however, that not more than three 
of them are really Egyptian ; the 
rest being productions of the time 
of Adrian. No. 1, Isis and Apis 
— 3, Canopus—9, Isis—10, Anu- 
bis with the Sistrum and Cadu- 
ceus—12, Isis—13, Isis. 

First room, added to the Mu- 
seumby Pius vri. No. 13, a square 
Altar, supposed to be an Etrus¬ 
can work, representing the la¬ 
bours of Hercules. 

Second room. No. 1, the Sar¬ 
cophagus of Alexander Scverus 
and his mother. Some of the 

(a) Some writers suppose the monument 
in Question to have been that of Genesius 
Marcianus, the Father of Alexander Se« 


[Ch. VII. 

hassi-rilievi which adorn this im¬ 
mense monument are fine*.— 3, a 
Disk, with hassi-rilievi, represent¬ 
ing the life of Achilles !—4, an an¬ 
cient Mosaic, found near Antium, 
and representing Hercules van¬ 
quished by Love !—5, a Satyr with 
a pipe—11, Pluto and Cerberus!— 
13, a hasso-rilievo of Poppsea, se¬ 
cond wife of Nero—14, Nero. 

Staircase. No. 1, a statue of 
Modesty, or a Vestal—2, the Top 
of an ancient Well 1 —5, a Lion 
devouring a Goat. Fastened into 
the wall is the Plan of ancient 
Rome, found in the church of 
Saints Cosimo'and Damiano. 

Gallery / up stairs. No. 2, Bust 
of Faustina the elder, wife of An¬ 
toninus Pius—5, Euterpe-—10, a 
hasso-rilievo, representing a man 
making his will—12, Faunus—14, 
Bust of Silenus—15, Bust of 
Pompey. 

Apartment of the Vase. No. 1, 
a large vase with Bacchanalian 
ornaments, found near the sepul¬ 
chre of Cecilia Metella; and placed 
on a Pedestal, apparently Etrus¬ 
can, and originally, perhaps, the 
parapet which encircled a well: it 
is adorned with a hasso-rilievo, 
representing the twelve principal 
deities of the heathen world ; and 
was found at Nettuno!—2, (near 
the window,) a bronze Vase, found 
in the port of Antium ; and once 
the property of Mithridatcs Eu- 
pator, King of Pontus, according 
to the inscription it bears ; which 
inscription exhibits the most an¬ 
cient Greek characters extant!— 
9, Mercury—36, a triform Diana 
—37, a hasso-rilievo representing* 
circumstances recorded by Homer 
—39, a sacrificial tripod—43, an- 

verus, and liis wife, Julia Mammsea. 

(t) Or perhaps a receptacle for sacrificial 
ashes. 


ROME. 


Ch. VIt.] ROME. 149 


cient Roman weights, scales, and 
a candelabrum—41, the triumph 
of Bacchus for the conquest of 
India—47, Diana of Ephesus— 
59, Isis—6S, the Foot ot a tripod 
of flowered alabaster!—G9, a se¬ 
pulchral Urn, representing the 
fable of Diana and Endymion— 
77, Diana of Ephesus —S3, a 
Hernia—84, a Henna represent¬ 
ing Bacchus—9G, a cinerary Urn 
supposed to have contained the 
ashes of a youth—100, a Sarco¬ 
phagus, with bassi-rilievi, repre¬ 
senting the fable of Prometheus 
—101, a Mosaic, in pietre (lure, 
of four pigeons, described by 
Pliny, and found in Adrian's 
Villa! ! u . 

Continuation of the Gallery. 
No. 17, bust supposed to repre¬ 
sent Cecrops, first King of Athens 
18, Cato the Censor!—19, Group 
of Agrippina and Nero—21, 
Marcus Aurelius—23, bust of a 
laughing Bacchus—26, a young 
Hercules !—27, Paris—2S, a Sar¬ 
cophagus representing the rape 
of Proserpine — 29, a cinerary 
Urn—30, a bust, supposed to re¬ 
present Marcus Brutus — 32, 
Psyche, with the wings of a but¬ 
terfly—34, bust of Marcus Ves¬ 
pasian Agrippa! — 35, colossal 
bust of the mother of Niobe—3G, 
a wounded Gladiator; or, more 
probably, a Discobolus—37, a 
Wine-vase—41, one of the daugh¬ 
ters of Niobe—42, head of Ju¬ 
piter !—44, Diana-Lucifera—4S, 
a Sarcophagus with bassi-rilievi 
relative to the history of Bacchus 
—49, a cinerary Urn, with a pine¬ 
apple, the emblem of mourning, 
at the top—50, bust of Scipio 
Africanus !—51, bust of Phoeion 
—52, statue of a Consul—54, a 
semi-colossal head of Antinous— 

(u) This Mosaic made part of a pave¬ 
ment; and is supposed to have been brought 


55, bust of Venus—56, a small 
Pallas — 57, a small Isis — 58, 
semi-colossal bust of Jupiter-Am¬ 
mon !—GO, statue of Ceres— 92, 
bust of the Mother of Niobe— 
G3, bust of Tiberius— 64, Bac¬ 
chus with a panther at his feet—• 
G5, Jove with the eagle at his feet 
— G6, bust of Jupiter Serapis—• 
67, head of Augustus—GS, bust 
of Adrian—70, bust of Caligula— 

72, statue of Marcus Aurelius— 

73, bust of Trajan—74, bust of 
Silenus crowned with ivy — 75, 
bust of Domitius Enobarbus, the 
father of Nero—76, bust of Ca- 
racalla. 

Apartment of the Emperors. 
On the walls are the following 
bassi-rilievi, numbered alphabe¬ 
tically— A. Genii in cars— ft. 
Bacchus, on a tiger, with Fauns, 
satyrs, fyc. — C. the chase of the 
(lalydon boar — E. the nine 
Muses ! — F. Perseus liberating 
Andromeda!— G. Socrates with 
History, and Homer with Poetry 
— If. Endymion and his dog—/. 
The fable of Hylas ; three of the 
figures in this basso-rilievo ex¬ 
actly resemble the three Graces of 
Siena. In the middle of the room 
is a statue of Agrippina, the mo¬ 
ther of Germanicus, seated in a 
curule chair! and round the apart¬ 
ment, on two shelves of marble, 
are busts of the Roman emperors 
and their Relatives, beginning 
with Julius Caesar; whose bust, 
n umbered 1, —that of Dr usus, n um¬ 
bered 5,—that of Germanicus, 
numbered 7,—that of Caligula, 
numbered 9,—that of Messalina, 
numbered 11,—that of Galba, 
numbered 16,—that of Julia, the 
daughter of Titus, numbered 21, 
—that of Nerva, numbered 24,— 
that of Plotina, numbered 26,—• 

by Adrian from Pergamus, and to have 
been the work of Sosus. 


ROME. 


150 


[Ch. VII. 


those of Adrian, numbered 29, and 
30,—that of Julia-Sabina, num¬ 
bered 31,—that of Marcus Aure¬ 
lius, numbered 35,—that of Lu- 
cilla, numbered 40,—that of Corn- 
modus, numbered 41,—-that of 
Clodius Albinus, numbered 47,— 
those of Septiinius Severus, num¬ 
bered 48, and 49,—that of. Ma- 
crinus, numbered 53, — that, of 
Maximus, numbered 59,—that of 
Tribonianus Gallus, numbered 68, 

-—and that of Salonina, num¬ 
bered 73, are among- the most 
striking-. 

Apartment of the Philosophers. 
Among the bassi-rilievi on the 
walls are, G. a funeral proces¬ 
sion ;—/. Victory in a triumphal 
car ;— L. a sacrifice to Hygeia, in 
rosso antico ;— M. Faunus fol¬ 
lowed by Spartan ladies: this 
work bears the name of Callima- 
clios, and is described by Pliny v . 
In the centre of the room is one of 
the twelve Camilla, instituted by 
Romulus, for the service of the 
gods. On two marble shelves round 
the room are busts of Poets, Phi¬ 
losophers, and other distinguished 
characters of antiquity: those of 
Virgil, marked 1, — Socrates, 
marked 4, 5, and 6,—Carneades, 
marked S, — Seneca, marked 10, 
—Plato, marked 11,—Diogenes, 
marked 21,—Archimedes, marked 
22, —Asclepiades, marked 24, — 
Demosthenes, marked 31, —Pin¬ 
dar, marked 33, —Aratus, marked 
38, —Democritus, marked 39, and 
40, —Homer, marked 44, 45, 46, 
and 47, —Aspasia, marked 48, —< 
Cleopatra, marked 49, —Sappho, 
marked 51, —Lysias, marked 51, 
Epicurus, marked 62, —« Metro- 
dorus, marked 63, — Epicurus, 
marked 64, — Aristotle, marked 
66,—Massinissa, marked 68, and 


69,—Julian, the apostate, marked 
72,—Cicero, marked 74,—and 
Gabrielle Faerno, marked 79, and 
done by Buonaroti, are among the 
most striking. 

Saloon. The two columns of 
giallo antico, which ornament the 
large niche of this apartment, 
where stands the Hercules of 
bonze gilt, once belonged to the 
tomb of Cecilia Metella ; and the 
two figures of Victory, which sup¬ 
port the arms of Clement xn., 
once belonged to the triumphal 
Arch of Marcus Aurelius. Among 
the statues are, No. 1, Jove armed 
with lightning, of nero antico, 
and found (as likewise was the 
Altar which serves for its Pedestal) 
in the Port of Antium!—2, a 
Centaur, of nero antico, found at 
Adrian’s Villa!!—3, Hercules, in 
basalt, found on the Aventine 
hill; the Pedestal is adorned with 
bassi-rilievi , representing the 
birth, education, and coronation 
of Jove !!—4, another Centaur, 
similar to that numbered “2” !!— 
5, iEsculapius, in nero antico, 
placed on a circular altar repre¬ 
senting a sacrifice, and found, 
as was the Altar, at Antium—7, 
Ptolemy-Apion, in the character 
of Apollo—S, Venus rising from 
the bath—9, a wounded Amazon 
10, an Amazon—11, a wounded 
Amazon—13, a Muse—14, Mi¬ 
nerva !—15, a Faun—16, Apollo, 
semi-colossal-—18, a colossal bust 
of Trajan!—21, Antinous—22, 
Adrian—23, Caius Marius, in 
consular robes !!■—24, Julia, con¬ 
sort of Septiinius Severus—25, 
Hercules in bronze gilt, semi-co¬ 
lossal, found in the Forum Boa- 
rium ; and the only antique statue 
in Rome on which the gilding re¬ 
mains !! This statue is placed 


(v) Winckelman seems to think this work Etruscan; and supposes it to 
represent three Priestesses of Bacchus and a Faun. 


Ch. VII.] 

upon an altar consecrated to For¬ 
tune.—26, Isis with the lotus on 
her head!—2S, a Master of one 
of the schools for g ymnastic exer¬ 
cises, found in Adrian’s Villa— 
29, one of the Prcefiece, hired to 
weep at funerals—31, the God¬ 
dess of Clemency with a patera 
and a lance, found on the Avcn- 
tine hill—32, a colossal bust of 
Antoninus Pius ! — 33, Diana, 
as a huntress ; from the Albani 
collection—34, a Cacciatore, found 
near the Porta Latina—35, Har- 
pocrates, the god of silence, found 
in Adrian’s Villa. 

Apartment of the Faun. — 
Among the bassi-rilievi which 
adorn the walls of this room, is 
the triumph of the Nereides over 
marine Monsters. In the centre 
of the apartment is the Faun, in 
rosso antico, found at Adrian’s 
Villa!!!—No. 3, colossal head of 
Hercules placed on a rostral altar 
dedicated to Neptune— 6, colossal 
head of Bacchus, placed on a 
rostral altar, dedicated to Tran¬ 
quillity—10, an incognito-bust—* 
13, a Sarcophagus, the bassi-ri¬ 
lievi on which represent the fable 
of . Diana and Endymion—14, an 
incognito-bust standing on an al¬ 
tar dedicated to Isis, and found in 
Adrian's Villa—15, a child play¬ 
ing with a mask—17, Innocence 
playing with a dove—19, Alexan¬ 
der the Great—21, a Child play¬ 
ing with a Swan, and placed on 
an altar dedicated to the sun !— 
22, an incognito-bust—26, a Sar¬ 
cophagus adorned with bassi-ri¬ 
lievi representing the battle of 
Theseus and the Amazons. 

Apartment of the dying' Gladi¬ 
ator. This super-excellent sta- 

f w ) Winckelman supposes the statue call¬ 
ed The dying Gladiator, to represent a 
herald: other antiquaries think it more 
like a shield-hearer; it seems, however, •,to 


151 

tue, found in the gardens of Sal¬ 
lust, has been so well restored, by 
Buonaroti, that the arm he made is 
deemed nearly equal in merit with 
the other parts of the figure w !!!!! 
2, Zeno, the founder of the Stoics; 
this statue stands upon an ancient 
altar, and was discovered at La- 
vinium, in the Villa of Antoninus 
Pius.—3, a group of Cupid and 
Psyche, found on the Aventine 
hill, and placed on an altar dedi¬ 
cated to Apollo!—4, the Faun of 
Praxiteles, found at Tivoli, in the 
Villa d’Este !!!—6, Antinous!! ! 
—7, Flora, found in Adrian’s 
Villa!—8, Venus coming from the 
bath!!!—9, Juno, semi-colossal!!! 
—10, bust of Alexander the Great! 
—11, the Egyptian Antinous dei¬ 
fied by Adrian, deini-colossal, and 
found in Adrian’s Villa!—12, bust 
of Ariadne, crowned with ivy— 
13, Pandora, semi-colossal, placed 
on an Altar dedicated to Hercules ! 
—14, Apollo, semi-colossal, and 
found in the Zolfatara, near Ti¬ 
voli !!!—B, bust of Marcus Bru¬ 
tus ! 

Tempio di Pallade, erected by 
Domitian in his Forum. This 
magnificent ruin is half buried in 
the earth; but that part which 
appears above-ground of two beau- 
ful fluted Corinthian columns now 
standing, measures twenty-nine 
feet in height, each column being 
nine feet and a half in circumfer¬ 
ence. The entablature and frieze 
are rich in well-executed orna¬ 
ments, especially the latter, which 
represents the Arts, patronised by 
Pallas. On the entablature is a 
large figure of the Goddess in alto- 
rilievo. 

Tempio e Foro di Nerva. The 

be generally considered as a copy of that 
master-piece in bronze, by Ctesilaus, which 
represented a wounded man in the agonies 
of death. 


ROME. 



152 


ROME. 


Emperor Nerva, after the death 
of Doinitian, finished his Forum, 
which was enlarged and embel¬ 
lished by Trajan, who erected 
there one of the finest edifices of 
ancient Rome, a Temple, or Ba¬ 
silica, in honour of Nerva. Con¬ 
tiguous to the entrance into the 
Forum of Nerva (now called Arco 
de’ Pantani) are the remains of 
this edifice ; namely, part of what 
seems to have been a cella, and 
part of a side portico, consisting 
of three magnificent columns and 
a pilaster of Parian marble, fluted, 
.and of the Corinthian order, which 
support an architrave much orna¬ 
mented and finely worked. The 
height of these columns is fifty- 
one feet, and their circumference 
sixteen feet and a half x . The 
wall now remaining of the Forum 
of Nerva (supposed to have been 
originally a part of the city-wall, 
erected by Tarquin,) is equally ex¬ 
traordinary on account of its im¬ 
mense height, and the enormous 
blocks of stone that compose it, 
which are cramped together with¬ 
out the assistance of lime, by pieces 
of hard wood. 

Foro e Colonna Trajana. The 
Forum of Trajan, built by Apol- 
lodorus of Athens, was, according 
to the records of antiquity, more 
splendid than any other Forum at 
Rome, and contained porticos, sta¬ 
tues, a basilica, with a bronze e- 
questrian statue of Trajan in its 
vestibule; a temple dedicated to 
that Emperor after his death ; a 
triumphal arch with four fronts, 
the celebrated Ulpian Library, 
and a beautiful historic column, 
the last of which alone remains 
entire. The column is supposed 
to have stood in the centre of the 

(x) According to some opinions, this edi¬ 
fice was the Temple of Mars. 

L ( V ) The shields and awns arc those of the 


[Ch. VII. 

Forum, and, under this supposi¬ 
tion, we may conclude that not 
much more than half of the latter 
has been excavated, and that the 
other part must still remain en¬ 
tombed beneath the churches of S. 
Maria, and S. Maria di Loretto. 
The excavations lately made have 
brought to light a considerable 
number of columns of grey gra¬ 
nite, all broken, but which seem, 
j udging from the situation of their 
bases, to have belonged to the Ba¬ 
silica. Several fragments of sculp¬ 
ture, inscriptions, fyc., have like¬ 
wise been found, and are now 
placed in the Forum. Trajan’s 
column, the most beautiful work 
extant of its kind, was erected at 
the beginning of the second cen¬ 
tury, by the senate and people of 
Rome, in honour of his victories 
over the Daci, Sarmati, fyc. It is 
of the Doric order, and composed 
of thirty-four blocks of Greek 
marble, fastened together with 
bronze cramps: its circumference, 
at the bottom, being eleven feet 
two inches, and at the top ten feet, 
and its height from the pavement, 
including the statue on its summit, 
133 feet. The bassi-rilievi with 
which it is adorned, represent the 
Dacian wars, and are supposed to 
have been designed, and in great 
measure executed, by Apollodorus. 
The statue of Trajan, in bronze 
gilt, originally stood on the top of 
this column, but the existing sta¬ 
tue is that of S. Peter, placed 
there by Sixtus V. The pedestal 
of the column exhibits trophies, 
eagles, wreathes of oak, $-c., most 
beautifully sculpturedy, and origi¬ 
nally contained the ashes of Tra¬ 
jan in a golden urn. 

Dogana Pontificia. This 

Daci, the Sarmati, and their allies, copied 
from the originals brought to Rome by 

i T3J311* 


153 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

edifice stands on the ruins of a 
large oblong building, each side 
of which seems to have been ori¬ 
ginally decorated with an open 
portico. Eleven magnificent flut¬ 
ed Corinthian columns of Greek 
marble still remain, and support a 
noble cornice, likewise of Greek 
marble: these columns are above 
thirty-nine feet high, and particu¬ 
larly well proportioned; their base 
is attic, and their capitals are 
adorned with olive-leaves : they 
have suffered cruelly from fire. 
The quadrangle of the edifice con¬ 
tains fragments of a fine entabla¬ 
ture, and a portico. Some anti¬ 
quaries believe this splendid ruin 
to have been the Temple of Nep¬ 
tune, but more probably it was the 
Basilica of Antoninus Pius. 

Obelisk of Monte- Citorio .— 
This obelisk, made, it is supposed, 
in the time of Sesostris, about a 
thousand years before Christ, was 
brought to Rome by Augustus, 
who used it as the gnomon, or stile, 
of his meridian line, which was 
traced on the pavement by means 
of a bronze dial, near the temple 
of .Tuno-Lucina, now the Church 
of S. Lorenzo in Lucina 2 . The 
obelisk is of red granite, covered 
with hieroglyphics, and its height, 
from the pedestal to the bronze 
globe on its summit, is ninety 
feet. Pius vi. placed it on Monte 
Citorio a . 

Colonna-Antonina. This state¬ 
ly historic column, erected by the 
Roman senate to Marcus Aurelius 
Antoninus, was dedicated by him 
to his father-in-law, Antoninus 
Pius, whose statue he placed on 
its summit. It records the Mar- 

' {%) See Pliny’s Nat. Hist. 1. 3G— c. 
lo. 

(a) Mom Cltorius ; here formerly stood 
an Amphitheatre, supposed to have been 
that of Statilius Taurus. 

(b) The Base of the Colonna Antonina is 


comannic war, in a series of bassi- 
rilievi , which seem to have been 
imitated from those on Trajan’s 
column, though inferior in point 
of workmanship. It is of the 
Doric order, and composed of twen¬ 
ty-eight blocks of white marble ; 
its diameter being fifteen feet, and 
its height, from the base to the 
top of the statue, one hundred and 
forty-two feet. As this column 
was extremely injured by light¬ 
ning, Sixtus v. restored it, at the 
same time placing on its summit 
the statue of S. Paul, which, like 
that of Antoninus Pius, is of bronze 
giltb. 

Mausoleo d'Augusto. Augus¬ 
tus, during his sixth consulate, 
erected, in the Campus Martius, 
this superb Mausoleum for himself 
and family: it was incrusted with 
white marble, and, being raised to 
a great height, formed a stately 
dome. The building seems to have 
been divided into three stories, 
round which were broad belts, 
whereon evergreens were planted: 
the summit was adorned with a 
statue of A ugustus, and two Egyp¬ 
tian Obelisks stood at the entrance. 
One story alone remains: here, 
however, are several sepulchral 
chambers tolerably perfect. The 
Bustum , where the bodies of the 
Emperor and his family were burnt, 
is supposed to have been in the vi¬ 
cinity of his mausoleum, near the 
church of S. Carlo al Corso. So 
extraordinary are the changes in 
this world, that the tomb of Au¬ 
gustus is now converted into a sort 
of amphitheatre for bull-fights and 
fire-works! 

Campo Marzo. The Campus 

modern; and if the Street recently disco¬ 
vered, eighteen feet below the foundation 
of the Palazzo-Piombino, be, as antiquaries 
suppose, part of the Via-Flaminia, the 
Colonna Antonina must, when first erected, 
have stood on a considerable bill. 


154. 


ROME. 


Martins, consecrated, by Romu¬ 
lus, to the god of war, compre¬ 
hended an immense track of 
ground ; extending, in the days 
of Augustus, from his Mausoleum 
to the Theatre of Marcellus ; and 
from the base of the Pincian, Qui- 
rinal, and Capitoline hills, to the 
Tiber. In Nero’s reign, it is said 
to have reached to the Ponte Molle. 

Mausoleo-Adriano, now Castel 
di S. Angelo. This magnificent 
edifice was erected by the Empe¬ 
ror Adrian, nearly opposite to the 
Mausoleum of Augustus, and in 
the garden of Domitian. It con¬ 
sisted of two stories, with a dome 
on the top ; was incrusted with 
Parian marble, surrounded with 
stately columns, and adorned with 
statues. Some persons imagine 
the bronze pine, now in the Bel- 
vedere-Garden of the Vatican, to 
have been originally placed on the 
summit of the dome, and to have 
contained the ashes of Adrian : 
while others conjecture that his 
statue was on the summit, and 
that his ashes were deposited be¬ 
neath, in a porphyry sarcophagus. 
After the fall of the Roman em¬ 
pire, this building became the ci¬ 
tadel of Rome ; and acquired the 
appellation of Castello di S. An¬ 
gelo, from a statue of the Arch¬ 
angel Michael placed there, to 
commemorate a vision of S. Gre¬ 
gorio ; who, being on the top of 
the edifice, thought he saw an 
angel announcing to him the ces¬ 
sation of a plague which, at that 
period, ravaged Rome. Con¬ 
siderable remains of the ancient 
building may still be discovered 

(c) One of these blocks of marble is 
twelve feet in length, thirteen in breadth, 
and eleven in height. Another block is 
seventeen feet in length, ten in breadth,and 
six in height. But prodigious, to modern 
eyes, as these blocks appear, they are pig¬ 
mies compared with those mentioned by 


[Ch. VII. 

within the walls of the modern 
Fortress ; the large hall of which 
merits notice ; as it is painted, in 
fresco, by Raphael's scholars. 

Foreigners, in general, are not 
allowed to see the interior of the 
Fortress of S. Angelo above one 
or two days in the year; when 
the Soldiers of the Garrison have 
permission to open the gates, and 
show the Mausoleum, fyc. 

Temp io del Sole nel Giardino 
Colonnese. In Via della Pilotta, 
near the church of Santi Apostoli, 
is a door leading up a flight of 
narrow steps into the Colonna 
Garden, where lie immense frag¬ 
ments of what is supposed to have 
been the Temple of the Sun, 
erected by Aurelian. This edi¬ 
fice, finely situated on the Quirinal 
hill, was one of the largest temples 
of ancient Rome, if we may judge 
by the enormous magnitude of the 
ruins of the frieze and entablature 0 , 
which still remain: they are of 
white marble, beautifully sculp¬ 
tured. The columns which sup¬ 
ported the entablature are sup¬ 
posed to have been seventy feet in 
height. Here was found a votive 
table of marble, on which the wor¬ 
ship of Mithras is represented: 
and as the worship of Mithras, 
brought to Rome from Persia, was 
certainly connected with that of 
the sun, such a votive offering is 
an indication that the Temple of 
the Sun stood here. 

This Garden likewise contains 
ruins of the Baths of Constantine. 

Obelisk of the Piazza di Santa 
Maria sopra Minerva. This little 
Obelisk, covered with hierogly- 

Josephus as having composed part of the 
Temple at Jerusalem, after its restoration 
by Herod. The last-named blocks, accord¬ 
ing Jo the Jewish Historian, were upwards 
of sixty-seven tcct in length, above seven 
in height, and about nine in breadth. 


Ch. VII.] 

phics, was found near the spot 
where it now stands ; in conse¬ 
quence of excavations which were 
made to lay the foundations of the 
Convent of the Minerva. The 
Obelisk which now stands oppo¬ 
site to the Pantheon, was found 
in the same place: and it is con¬ 
jectured that the Temples of Isis 
and Serapis stood in this part of 
Rome ; and that these little Obe¬ 
lisks stood before them. A line 
statue of Minerva, an Isis, a Se¬ 
rapis, an Isiaic Altar, and other 
Egyptian antiquities, were found 
in this vicinity ; as were the cele¬ 
brated statues of the Nile and 
Tiber ; the former of which is 
now in the Vatican-Museum, 
the latter at Paris. The obelisk 
of the Piazza della Minerva was 
placed there, by Alexander vir.; 
and the elephant, on whose back 
it rests, was designed by Bernini, 
and executed by Ferrata. 

Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Mi¬ 
nerva. This church is supposed 
to stand on the foundations of a 
Temple of Minerva, erected by 
Pompey the great, in gratitude for 
his victories: the interior of the 
edifice, however, though spacious 
and handsome, exhibits no remains 
of the ancient temple. Behind 
the high-altar are the tombs of 
Leo x. and Clement vn., by Ban- 
dinelli ; the statue of the former 
being by Rafaello da Montelupo, 
and that of the latter by Baccio- 
bigio. Near the side door is the 
monument of Cardinal Alessan- 
drino, designed by Giacomo della 
Porta ; and that of Cardinal Pi- 
mentelli, executed by Bernini: 
but the most celebrated piece of 
sculpture in this church is a statue 
of our Saviour holding his cross, 
by Buonaroti! It is near the 


155 

high-altar. The Altieri-Chapel 
contains an altar-piece, by Carlo 
Maratta and Baciccio: and the 
Chapel of the Annunziata is 
painted in fresco, by Filippino 
Lippi, Rafaellino del Garbo, and 
Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fie- 
sole, who was buried in this church. 
The adjoining Convent contains 
the Casanatense Library, deemed 
the best at Rome, with respect to 
printed books ; and adorned with 
a statue of Cardinal Casanatta, by 
Le Gros d . 

Pantheon. The Piazzain which 
this magnificent Temple stands, 
was completely filled with ruins of 
ancient edifices, till the Pontificate 
of Eugenius tv., who, on having 
these ruins cleared away, disco¬ 
vered, before the portico of the 
Pantheon, the two Lions of ba¬ 
salt which now adorn the Fontana 
di Termine ; a Head of Agrippa, 
in bronze ; and some ornaments, 
supposed to have belonged to the 
pediment. Gregory xm. erected 
the Fountain in this Piazza ; and 
Clement xi. embellished it with 
the Egyptian Obelisk before- 
mentioned. The Pantheon, which 
has in great measure defied the 
injuries of time, seems as if pre¬ 
served to latter ages for the pur¬ 
pose of furnishing a just idea of 
ancient Roman taste and splen¬ 
dour. The general opinion ap¬ 
pears to be that it was erected by 
Agrippa, the son-in-law of Au¬ 
gustus ; and repaired by Septimius 
Severus and Caracalla ; but that 
Agrippa did not build the portico 
at the same time with the rest of 
the edifice. The Pantheon, judg¬ 
ing from its name, was dedicated 
to all the gods: though Agrippa 
particularly consecrated it to Ju¬ 
piter the Avenger: and, according 


ROME. 


(d) On the twenty-third of April, from five till seven in the evening, there 

is fine music in this church. 


155 


ROME. 


to Dion Cassius, wished to have 
placed the statue of Augustus 
there, and to have inscribed his 
name as author of the Temple ; 
which honour the Emperor mo¬ 
destly declined. Agrippa, there¬ 
fore, placed the statue of Julius 
Ciesar in the rotunda, among the 
deities, and the statues of Augus¬ 
tus and himself in the large niches 
on the outside near the great door: 
and probably the portico might 
have been added for the purpose 
of containing these statues. What 
strengthens this conjecture is, that 
immediately over the portico are 
traces of the original pediment. 
Formerly there were seven steps 
leading up to the portico; now, 
two only are above ground. This 
stately vestibule is sixty-nine feet 
long by forty-one wide, and sup¬ 
ported with sixteen magnificent 
columns, each being one entire 
piece of red oriental granite, the 
circumference of which is fourteen 
feet, and the height forty-two. 
The bases and capitals are of the 
most beautiful white marble yet 
discovered among the treasures of 
antiquity. The portico is sur¬ 
mounted by an entablature and 
pediment finely proportioned ; and 
in the tympan of the latter are 
holes that served, no doubt, to fix 
a basso-rilievo, now, alas, taken 
away. The original bronze doors, 
embellished with bassi-rilievi, be¬ 
came the spoil of Genseric, King 
of the Vandals, who lost them in 
the Sicilian sea: the door-case, 
which is magnificent, still remains ; 
and the present doors appear to 
have been taken from an ancient 
edifice. The inside of the temple 
is circular, and its diameter is an 
hundred and forty-nine feet, ex¬ 
clusive of the walls, which are 
eighteen feet thick: the height 
seems to have been the same as 


[Ch. VII. 

the breadth, till the interior pave¬ 
ment was raised to a level with 
that of the portico: for originally 
there was a descent of seven or 
eight feet into the Pantheon; a 
construction not unusual in an¬ 
cient temples. The walls were 
incrusted Avith precious marbles, 
which still remain, as do the an¬ 
cient cornices and frieze ; and it is 
supposed that the inside of the 
dome was originally covered with 
silver bassi-rilievi: the outside 
was bronze gilt. The beams of 
the ceiling of the dome and portico 
were cased with thick plates of 
bronze, which Urban vm. took 
away, to make the Baldacchino in 
S. Peter’s, and the cannon of the 
Castle of S. Angelo; thereby 
drawing upon himself the follow¬ 
ing pasquinade: “ Quod non fe- 
cerunt Barbari Roma:, fecitBar- 
barini." All the gods had their 
respective statues here, in bronze, 
silver, gold, or precious marble : 
that of Jupiter the avenger is sup¬ 
posed to have been in the centre 
of the tribuna; the infernal deities 
on the pavement, the terrestrial in 
the lower niches of the walls, and 
the celestial in the upper niches. 
The pavement is composed of por¬ 
phyry and giallo antico, bordered 
with other rare marbles ; and the 
aperture in the roof for light is 
twenty-five feet in diameter. Pliny 
mentions, among the ornaments, 
columns with capitals of a metal 
called Syracusian; but none of 
these are preserved; neither do 
any of the Caryatides, nor the 
other statues executed by Dio¬ 
genes the Athenian, now remain. 
Pliny likewise mentions, among 
the statues, a Venus with ear¬ 
rings made of a pearl cut asunder; 
being the fellow of that which 
Cleopatra dissolved in vinegar, 
and drank to the health of Mark 


ROME. 


157 


Ch. VII.] 

Antony. Fourteen beautiful co¬ 
lumns of the Corinthian order still 
adorn the interior of this edifice : 
and it is said that the two which 
stand on each side of the high al¬ 
tar were placed there by Adrian. 
The small altars are adorned with 
columns of porphyry, giallo an- 
tico and granite, paintings and 
statues; among the latter of which 
is a group of a Vestal and a Child 
found in the subterranean part of 
the building ; this Vestal is now, 
I believe, called S. Anna. Busts, 
monuments, and inscriptions, to 
the memory of distinguished cha¬ 
racters whose talents have shed 
lustre upon Italy, once clothed the 
walls of the Pantheon; but are 
now removed to the Capitol; 
except the inscriptions in me¬ 
mory of Raphael, Annibale Ca- 
racci, and two or three other per¬ 
sons. 

Bagni d'Agrippa. Immedi¬ 
ately behind the Pantheon were 
Agrippa's Baths, of which scarce 
any vestige remains ; except a 
semi-circular building, now called 
Arco della Ciambella . 

Piazza-Navona. This was an¬ 
ciently the Circus Agonalis; so 
called, perhaps, from having been 
the spot where the Agonal games, 
instituted by Numa in honour of 
Janus, were celebrated. It is one 
of the largest Piazzas in Rome, 
and seems to have retained its 
original shape. Gregory xm. 
adorned it with two Fountains ; 
one of which is ornamented with 
a Triton, by Bernini ; and other 
sculpture, by various artists: and 
Innocent x. erected the centre 
Fountain after the design of Ber¬ 
nini. It consists of a circular ba¬ 
sin seventy-three feet in diameter ; 
in the middle of which rises a 


rock, adorned on one side with a 
sea-horse, and on another with a 
lion: on the summit of this rock 
is an Obelisk of red granite, co¬ 
vered with hieroglyphics, and fifty- 
five feet in height; it was found 
in the Circus of Caracalla, who 
brought it to Rome. The four 
sides of the rock are likewise em¬ 
bellished with four colossal sta¬ 
tues, representing four of the 
principal rivers of the world ; 
namely, the Ganges, the Nile e , 
the Plata, and the Danube. This 
fountain does honour to the taste 
of Bernini. 

Chiesa di S. Agnese , in Pi¬ 
azza-Navona. This church stands 
on the Lupanarium of the Circus 
Agonalis, whither S. Agnes was 
dragged, in order to be defiled. A 
staircase near the Chapel of S. 
Agnes leads into the L upanarium, 
where are considerable remains of 
antiquity, together with a basso- 
rilievo of S. Agnes miraculously 
covered with her own hair; and 
said to be one of the best works 
of Algardi! 

The Church of S. Agnes is 
built in the form of a Greek cross; 
and adorned with stately columns 
of granite, a beautiful pavement, 
a cupola finely painted by Ciro 
Ferri, Corbellini, and Baciccio * a 
statue of S. Agnes in the flames, 
by Ercole Ferrata; an antique 
statue, now called S. Sebastiano ; 
several fine bassi-rilievi, (the 
most striking of which is S. Eu- 
stachio among the wild beasts, by 
Ercole Ferrata ;) the Masoleum 
of Innocent x.; and a high altar 
incrusted with flowered alabaster, 
and adorned with columns of verde 
antique ; and a group in marble of 
the Holy Family, by Domeni- 
cliino Guido. 


U) The statue of the Nile has its head covered, to signify that its source 

was unknown to the ancients. 


158 

The Lupanarium is damp and 

cold. 

Teatro di Marcello, Piazza 
Montanara. This Theatre, said 
to have been the second built at 
Rome for public exhibitions, was 
erected by Augustus in honour of 
his Nephew Marcellus; and the 
architecture is so line as to have 
served as a model to all succeeding 
ages. This edifice was four sto¬ 
ries high ; but the two upper ones 
are quite destroyed; and have 
buried, in their ruins, the seats, 
orchestra, and stage. Almost half, 
however, of the wall of the first 
and second story may be traced. 
The portico of the first story is 
Doric ; the second story Ionic. 
This theatre was composed of 
large blocks of Travertin o, and 
held about twenty-five thousand 
spectators: the Orsini-Palace 
stands upon its ruins. 

Near the Theatre of Marcellus 
stood thePrison of the Decemviri ; 
in which a woman (according to 
Pliny and Valerius Maximus) was 
condemned to be starved to death, 
and saved by her daughter; who 
had not long been brought to bed, 
and who got access to her, and 
supported her with her milk: till, 
at length, when this circumstance 
was discovered, the mother, re¬ 
ceived pardon for the daughter’s 
sake; a pension, likewise, was 
bestowed upon them ; and a temple 
erected on the spot to filial piety. 

Portico d'Qctavia. This mag¬ 
nificent edifice, which stands in the 
Pescheria, or fish-market, was 
erected by Augustus in honour of 
his sister Octavia, chiefly for the 
purpose of sheltering the people 
from rain. It seems to have en¬ 
closed a Temple of Jupiter, and 
another of Juno ; the latter of 
which suffered from fire, and was 
repaired by Septimius Severus 


[Ch. VII. 

and Caracalla. The portico was 
of a square form, supported by 
nearly three hundred columns, and 
adorned with statues of the most 
exquisite workmanship : it served 
as an exhibition-hall for painters 
on certain days of the year. The 
present remains seem to have been 
one of the principal entrances : its 
form is square, with two fronts, 
similar to each other, and adorned 
with fluted Corinthian columns of 
white marble, supporting an en¬ 
tablature and pediment, all finely 
executed. The Venus de’ Medici 
was found here. 

Tempio d' Esculapio, now 
Chiesa di S. Bartolomeo. This 
Church stands on what is called 
the Island of the Tiber; being 
precisely the space between the 
Pons Cestius and the Pons Fa~ 
bricius. The Romans have a 
tradition that this island was 
formed by the corn belonging to 
Tarquin the Proud, in the Cam¬ 
pus Martins, having been cut 
down, and, by order of the con¬ 
suls, thrown into the river. About 
the year of Rome 462, when the 
city suffered from a pestilence, 
the Sibylline books were con¬ 
sulted ; and an embassy sent, in 
consequence, to bring iEscula- 
pius of Epidaurus to Rome ; when 
the serpent worshipped by the 
Epidaurians, under the name of 
ZEsculapius, followed the ambas¬ 
sadors into their ship, remained 
with them during their voyage 
home, and then quitted the vessel 
and swam to the island of the 
Tiber, where a temple was built 
for him: and, to perpetuate the 
memory of this event, the figure of 
a serpent is cut on one of the 
stones that served for the founda¬ 
tion of this temple. The serpent, 
however, is in the garden of the 
Convent belonging to the church ; 


ROME. 


Ch. VII.] 

and ladies are not allowed to see 
the garden without an order from 
a Cardinal. The Columns in the 
church appear to be antique, and 
are supposed to have belonged to 
the Temple of iEsculapius ; the 
Sarcophagus, which forms the 
altar, is handsome. 

Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Traste- 
vere. This edifice is erected on 
the foundations of the house of S. 
Cecilia; and contains the Bath 
wherein she suffered martyrdom. 

The Court leading to the church 
is adorned with a fine antique 
marble Vase ; and the Portico is 
embellished with antique Columns, 
two of which are granite. The 
high altar of the church is adorned 
with four columns of nero and 
bianco antico supporting a bal- 
dacchino of Parian marble ; under 
which rest the ashes of S. Cecilia, 
in a tomb composed of alabaster, 
lapis lazuli, jasper, verde antique, 
agate, and bronze gilt. Here like¬ 
wise is the statue of S. Cecilia, by 
Stefano Maderno, in the position 
in which she was found after her 
martyrdom ! The pavement en¬ 
circling the altar is of alabaster 
and various precious marbles; 
and the ceiling is adorned witli 
ancient mosaics. Here, also, are 
a small round picture of the Ca- 
racci-school; and an ancient pon¬ 
tifical chair. On the right of the 
great door of the church is an an¬ 
cient Vapour Bath, quite perfect; 
whose walls exhibit earthen pipes 
to convey hot air. This is sup¬ 
posed to be the spot where S. Ce¬ 
cilia was killed; it is now con¬ 
verted into a Chapel, and contains 
two pictures in the style of Guido ; 
the one representing the decapi¬ 
tation of the Saint, the other her 
coronation. 

Basilica di S. Maria in Tras- 
tevere , supposed to stand on the 


159 

foundations of th e Taberna Meri- 
toria , which was a hospital for in¬ 
valid-soldiers. The portico of this 
edifice is supported by antique 
granite columns, and adorned with 
ancient mosaics : it likewise con¬ 
tains several ancient inscriptions. 
The church is a noble structure, 
divided into three naves by twenty- 
two magnificent antique columns 
of red and grey granite: four 
columns of the same description 
support a fine architrave ; and 
some of the capitals are adorned 
with heads of Jupiter and Juno. 
The pavement is that kind of 
mosaic which was invented by the 
Emperor Alexander Severus, and 
consists of porphyry, verde an¬ 
tique, §c. In the centre of the 
roof of the middle aisle is an As¬ 
sumption of the Virgin, by Do- 
menichino!!! and the Chapel to 
the left, on approaching the high 
altar, is embellished with frescos 
attributed to the same great artist. 
The baldacchino of the high altar 
is supported by four columns of 
porphyry, and the tribuna adorned 
with mosaics of the twelfth cen¬ 
tury. Here, likewise, are two still 
more ancient mosaics; the one 
representing birds, the other a 
sea-port. This Basilica also con¬ 
tains an ancient pontifical Chair ; 
together with the Tombs of two 
celebrated painters, the Cav. Lan- 
franco, and Giro Ferri. 

In the Piazza, before the church, 
is a Fountain, made during the 
Pontificate of Adrian i., and the 
most ancient of modern Rome. 

Chiesa di S. Prisca, Monte 
Aventino. On the left, in as¬ 
cending the Aventine hill from 
Rome, is this church ; supposed 
to have been originally a Temple 
of Diana. Twenty-four antique 
columns yet remain; and an 
Isiaic table was found near the 


ROME. 


160 ROME. [Ch. VII. 


church ; which circumstance leads 
some persons to imagine it was a 
temple of Isis ; especially as Isis 
had a temple on the Aventine 
hill. 

Chiesa di S. Sabina. Further, 
to the right, is this noble edifice, 
supposed to stand on the founda¬ 
tions of the Temple of Diana, 
built by Servius Tullus for the 
common use of the cities of La- 
tium ; and therefore called Tem- 
plum commune Latium: or, else, 
on the site of the temple of Juno, 
built by Camillus. But all we 
know to a certainty on this sub¬ 
ject is, that the portico exhibits 
four antique columns, two of which 
are rare granite; that the inte¬ 
rior of the church is supported by 
twenty-four particularly beautiful 
antique fluted shafts of Parian 
marble, with Corinthian b«ases and 
capitals ; and that the shape of 
the church resembles an ancient 
temple. In the last chapel on the 
right of the high altar is a picture, 
by Sassoferato, representing the 
Madonna, S. Domenico, S. Cate- 
rina, and Angels!! The small 
paintings round this fine work are 
good: they represent the life of 
our Saviour. 

Chiesa di S. Alessio. Still fur¬ 
ther to the right is this Edifice, 
supposed, by some persons, to 
have been erected on the founda¬ 
tions of the Temple of Hercules. 
Here are an ancient Pavement 
and an ancient Well. The high 
altar is adorned with fine columns 
of verde antique; the tabernacle 
is handsome; and adjoining to 
the church is the villa of the de¬ 
ceased King of Spain, said to 
stand on, or near, the site of the 
Temple of the Ded Bond { . The 


Garden belonging to this Villa 
commands a fine view. Behind 
the Aventine hill is Monte Tes- 
taccio , anciently Mons Testaceus ; 
which, though one hundred and 
sixty-three feet in height, and 
above five hundred feet in circum¬ 
ference, is composed, almost en¬ 
tirely, of potsherds; conjectured 
to have been heaped upon this 
spot, in former ages, by workmen 
belonging to the potteries of the 
neighbourhood. 

Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio. This 
Pyramid, erected in memory of 
Caius Oestius, Septemvir Epu- 
lonum, or provider for the feasts 
of the gods, measures an hundred 
and thirteen feet in height; and 
each of its four sides is, at the 
base, sixty-nine feet in length. 
It was built, in three hundred and 
thirty days, and adorned with 
paintings, now almost totally ef¬ 
faced. It stands near the Porta 
S. Paolo, called Ostiense , by Au- 
relian. 

Terme di Caracalla. On the 
plain below the Aventine, and op¬ 
posite to the Celian hill, are the 
magnificent ruins of Caracalla s 
Baths ; which contained sixteen 
hundred Sellce , or bathing places ; 
and were ornamented with the 
Farnese Hercules of Glycon, the 
group of the Toro Farnese, and 
the celebrated Farnese Flora. The 
building seems to have been nearly 
square ; and consisted of subter¬ 
ranean apartments, with two sto¬ 
ries above them. In order to see 
what remains, drive toward the 
Porta S. Sebastiano, till, on the 
right, you find a green lane (called 
Via Antonina), leading to a doors, 
through which you enter a vast 
pile of ruins, once part of the 


(/) The Earth. 

(s ) The person who keeps the key of the door lives in a Garden near at hand. 


1G1 


Ch. VII.J ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 


Baths. Here may be traced two 
immense Courts, which appear to 
have been open, with niches for 
statues, and perhaps for baths 
likewise! Here, also, are two 
staircases, and almost innumerable 
apartments of various dimensions h . 
The height of the walls is great : 
and the whole exhibits one of the 
best specimens of ancient Roman 
architecture now existing-. After 
having examined these ruins, re¬ 
turn down the Via Antonina; 
and enter a Garden on the right, 
which exhibits remains of the 
subterranean apartments. 

Sepolcro de' Scipioni. This 
Tomb is situated in a Vineyard, 
on the Via-Appia, still nearer to 
the Porta S. Sebastiano than are 
the Baths of Caraealla: it is on 
the left side of the way, and the 
words, “ Sepulchra Scipionum>" 
are inscribed over the door. This 
was the tomb of Lucius Cornelius 
Scipio Barbatus, great grandfa¬ 
ther of Asiaticus and Africanus ; 
it is a handsome piece of Doric ar¬ 
chitecture, very perfect, very ex¬ 
tensive, and extremely interest¬ 
ing, though now robbed of its most 
valuable treasures. The candles 
provided by the Custode of this 
subterranean repository are so few 
in number that persons who wish 
to see it distinctly, should carry 
lights of their own: it is exces¬ 
sively damp. 

Porta di S. Sebastiano. This 
is the Appian Gate, sometimes 
called Capena, though that gate 
appears to have stood below the 
Villa Mattei, between the Celian 
and Aventine hills. Immediately 
within the gate of S. Sebastiano 
is an Arch, called that of Drusus, 
though it probably belonged to an 
aqueduct. 


Basilica di S. Sebastiano alle 
Catacombe. This Church is 
about two miles distant from the 
gate: it has a portico supported 
by antique columns, and is sup¬ 
posed to have been erected by Con¬ 
stantine. The high altar is adorn¬ 
ed with four antique columns of 
green marble ; and over the three 
doors of ingress are paintings, by 
Antonio Caracci. Under this 
church are Catacombs, originally 
formed, no doubt, by the ancient 
Romans, and whence they took 
the pozzolana of which their build¬ 
ings were made. The Christians 
enlarged these Catacombs, and, in 
times of persecution, used them as 
hiding-places and cemeteries ; they 
are said to extend several miles. 
It is often necessary to stoop in 
going through these caverns, but, 
generally speaking, they are nei¬ 
ther damp nor difficult of access. 
The passages are from two to three 
feet wide; the chambers (of which 
there are several,) from four to six 
feet broad, and from six to eight 
in length, some of them being still 
larger ; and here it is said the pri¬ 
mitive Christians performed their 
religious exercises. In the walls 
are cavities about a span and a 
half high, and between four and 
five long, many of which are open 
and empty, others closed with a 
piece of marble, sometimes con¬ 
taining an inscription. Few of 
these cavities appear large enough 
to contain a full-grown person, 
though the skeletons of children 
have frequently been found in 
them; and this circumstance makes 
the conjecture, that children, a- 
mong the ancients, were oftener 
buried than burnt, very plausible. 
He-re have been discovered several 
small vases, called lachrymatories, 


(A) By ascending one of these staircases, which is, however, a service of 
danger, you see the whole extent of the Baths, 


162 

though more probably incense- 
bottles ; and here likewise are 
places for cinerary urns. When 
this mark, is found upon a 

monument, it is deemed a sure 
indication of a martyr's sepulchre, 
being a composition, from the 
Latin and Greek alphabets, to de¬ 
note Pro Christo k The cross on 
a monument is also considered as 
a sign that a Christian lies buried 
there ; but it should be remem¬ 
bered that a cross was the Egyp¬ 
tian emblem of eternal life, and 
many crosses have been discovered 
upon Egyptian tombs, and like¬ 
wise in the temples of Serapis. 
The churches of S. Lorenzo and 
S. Agnes also lead to ancient Ca¬ 
tacombs, whose extent cannot be 
accurately known, because it is 
impossible to explore every part 
of them, as their communications 
with each other are so intricate, 
that several persons have lost 
themselves in these subterranean 
labyrinths ; which are, however, 
supposed to be the Puticuli men¬ 
tioned by Horace, Varro, and 
Festus Pompeius, where the bo¬ 
dies of slaves only, or persons 
whose circumstances would not 
allow of their being burnt on fune¬ 
ral piles, were deposited : but, in 
process of time, persons of a higher 
rank might probably be interred 
here, for the Romans, before Chris¬ 
tianity prevailed, often buried their 
dead, as is evident from monu¬ 
mental inscriptions beginning with 
the words Diis Manibus. The 
Chapel of the Catacombs of S. 
Sebastiano contains a bust of that 
Saint, by Bernini. It is neces¬ 
sary to carry lights, in order to 
see these Catacombs well. 

Circo di Caracalla. On the 
left side of the road, and at the 
foot of the hill on which stands the 


[Ch. VII. 

tomb of Cecilia Metella, is the 
Circus of Caracalla, together with 
ruins of various edifices belonging 
to it. The first of these that pre¬ 
sents itself is a large Rotunda, 
supposed to have been the quar¬ 
ters of the Pretorian Guard, while 
the Emperor attended the Circus ; 
and, enclosing this Rotunda, 
whosesecond story was a Serapeon, 
are remains of a double row of 
lofty walls, between which, it is 
supposed, were the stables of the 
horses used for the chariot-races ; 
while the open inner-space, or 
quadrangle, where stood the before 
named Serapeon, contained the 
cars. Near this building is an 
ancient sepulchre, leading to the 
Circus of Caracalla, which is more 
perfect than any other of the whole 
fifteen that once adorned Rome ; 
for here, the Metre, the Spina, the 
situation of the Obelisk, the seats, 
and the porticos whither the spec- 
tors retired in case of rain, are all 
discoverable. The Emperor’s seat, 
or Podium , seems to have been 
opposite to the first Meta, and 
from the Podium he gave the sig¬ 
nal to begin the race. The Spina 
was raised above the level of the 
Arena, that the cars might not 
break in upon the obelisk, altars, 
and statues which adorned it. The 
Meta was broader than the Spina, 
and along the sides of the Circus, 
between the seats and the arena , 
was a ditch filled with water, to 
prevent the carsfrom approaching 
too near the spectators. There 
was a space of about twelve feet 
between the Metre and Spina , 
serving as a passage to the latter, 
and to the cells where, it is sup¬ 
posed, the altars of Cons us were 
concealed : he seems to have been 
the God of Counsel; and hence 
the Romans called a consultation, 


ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 


(0 XPI2TQ2 Is the Creek word for Christ. 


1G3 


Cli. VII.] ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 


Consilium, and their chief magis¬ 
trates, Consoles : they hid the al¬ 
tar under ground, to signify that 
counsels ought to he kept secret. 
In the great area, between the 
first Meta and the Carceres, com¬ 
bats of gladiators and wild beasts 
were exhibited; and sometimes 
water was introduced, and Nau- 
machia represented. In the walls 
of this Circus, and likewise in those 
which surround Rome, are earthen 
pots, whose spherical shape, ope¬ 
rating like arches, diminished the 
perpendicular weight of the fabric, 
and contributed to strengthen it. 
The triumphal gate, through which 
the victors drove, is still nearly 
perfect, and precisely opposite to 
the gate of the Via-Appia: the 
water, likewise, still remains in the 
Circus, which is supposed to have 
contained about twenty thousand 
spectators. To the north of this 
Circus, in a neighbouring Vine¬ 
yard, are considerable remains of 
the Temples of Honour and Vir¬ 
tue, built by Marcellus, after his 
Sicilian conquests, in the year of 
Rome 541, and so constructed 
that it was impossible to enter the 
former, without passing through 
the latter. 

Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella. 
Had not the Roman Barons, dur¬ 
ing the middle ages, converted this 
beautiful edifice into a fortress, 
and built a parapet and port-holes 
round its summit, it might have 
lasted to eternity, so durable is the 
manner of its construction. The 
monument was erectedby Crassus, 
to enclose the remains of his wife, 
CeciliaMetella; and notwithstand¬ 
ing the above-named ugly para¬ 
pet, is one of the best preserved 
sepulchral fabrics of ancient Rome. 

About two miles from this mo¬ 
nument is an ancient public Us - 
trim , where the dead were burnt: 


and near the Fossa Cluilia, in 
this neighbourhood, about five 
miles from Rome, and on a spot 
now called Casale Rotondo , is 
the scene of combat between the 
Horatii and Curiatii. 

Basilica di S. Paolo, fuori 
delle Mara. This vast edifice 
was erected by Constantine over 
the grave of S. Paul; enlarged 
by Theodosius, and finished by 
Honorius. The length of the 
edifice, exclusive of the tribuna, 
is two hundred and forty feet, and 
its breadth one hundred and thirty- 
eight feet. Antique columns, an 
hundred and twenty in number, 
divide it into five aisles ; and 
twenty-four of these columns, 
placed in the middle-aisle, were 
taken from Adrian’s Mausoleum : 
they are of rare marble, called 
pavonazzo, beautifully fluted in a 
peculiar manner, and of the Co¬ 
rinthian order: each shaft being 
one entire piece. The pillars 
which support the great arch of 
the tribuna are forty-two feet in 
height, and fifteen in circum¬ 
ference : and behind the shrine of 
S. Paul is a column, with an equi¬ 
lateral Parian marble base of seven 
feet, finely worked. The pillars 
that adorn the altars are por¬ 
phyry ; and under the high altar, 
which is rich in precious marbles, 
rest the ashes of S. Paul. The 
arch of the great nave is orna¬ 
mented with mosaics of the year 
440; and on the walls, above the 
columns, are portraits of all the 
Popes, two hundred and fifty- 
three in number, beginning with 
S. Peter and ending with Pius 
vn. The pavement abounds with 
fragments of ancient sepulchral 
inscriptions ; and the centre en¬ 
trance-door, consisting of bronze 
embellished with bassi-rilievi, 
was cast at Constantinople in 

»I 2 


164 

1070. The outside of this church 
is adorned with mosaics; and 
under the portico of the adjoin¬ 
ing’ Cloister are antique marbles, 
and inscriptions 11 . 

Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre 
Fontane. Near two miles be¬ 
yond the Basilica of S. Paul is 
the spot where this great Apostle 
suffered ; and where considerable 
numbers of Christians were exe¬ 
cuted, by command of the Empe¬ 
ror Diocletian, after he had em¬ 
ployed them in erecting his Baths. 
On this spot are three Churches : 
the first, S. Marla Sr.ala Cadi , 
was built by Vignola, and is 
deemed a good piece of architec¬ 
ture : the inside, an octagon, con¬ 
tains a mosaic, by Francesco 
Zucca, of the school of Vasari; 
said to be the first thing of its 
kind executed in good taste, after 
the revival of the arts. The se¬ 
cond Church, that of Saints Vin¬ 
cenzo and Anastasio, contains 
frescos of the twelve Apostles, a 
Noli me tangere, and the Bap¬ 
tism of our Saviour; all executed 
after the designs of Raphael, but 
much injured, except the two 
last. The third Church, that of 
S. Paul, was built by Giacomo 
della Porta, and does honour to 
his taste. The interior of the 
edifice contains two altars, and 
three Fountains, called miracu¬ 
lous ; together with ten columns 
of rare marble 1 , which adorn the 
fountains and .altars. Here is a 
White Stone, on which the head 
of S. Paul is supposed to have 
been cut off: and here, likewise, 
is a picture of the Crucifixion of 
S. Peter, by Guido ; which ap¬ 
pears to have been finely executed, 
but is now much spoiled. 

( k) The Kings of England were the pro¬ 
tectors of the Basilica of S. Paul before 
the Reformation. 


[Ch. VII. 

Excavations on the estate Of 
the Duchess of Chahlais. Re¬ 
turning from S. Paolo alle tre 
Fontana, you see, on the right, 
not far distant from the Tomb of 
Cecilia Metella, two excavations, 
which have recently disclosed the 
lower part of two ancient Roman 
Villas. That nearest to the tomb 
of Cecilia Metella is supposed to 
have belonged to the Consul Mar¬ 
cus Procus, or his daughter ; and 
exhibits the shape and walls of 
several rooms, where bassi-rilievi 
and a statue have been found; 
and also some beautiful pave¬ 
ments. The rooms scein to have 
been painted like those at Pom¬ 
peii. The plan of this Villa is 
discoverable, so far as to prove 
that the apartments were small, 
though numerous. Here I found 
ancient glass, some pieces being 
very thick, others very thin, and 
in a state of decay. The Villa 
on the hill to the left exhibits 
subterranean arches, above which 
are the foundations of a square 
portico, once supported, as it 
seems, by forty stuccoed pillars. 
The centre of this portico is not 
excavated: the walls appear to 
have been adorned with paint¬ 
ings ; and the floors paved, like 
those of the opposite Villa. The 
first-mentioned Villa was disco¬ 
vered in consequence of a piece 
of tessellated pavement being 
worked out of a mole-hill. 

Chiesa di S. Urbano alia 
Caffarella. On the eminence 
above the Fountain of Egeria is 
a Church dedicated to S. Ur¬ 
bano ; and originally an ancient 
Temple ; supposed, by some wri¬ 
ters, to have been consecrated to 
Bacchus, because it contains an 

( l) Two of these columns are green 
porphyry. 


ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 


Ch. VII.] ANTIQUITIES 

altar dedicated to him. Accord¬ 
ing 1 to other opinions, however, 
this was originally the Temple of 
the Muses. Four fluted Corin- 
tian columns of white marble, 
which once supported the portico, 
now adorn the outside of the 
church: the inside is ornamented 
with a fine frieze of stucco, and 
medallions of the same on the 
roof. 

Fontana della Dea,Egeria. This 
Grotto, according to Flaminius 
Vacca, was consecrated, by Numa 
Pompilius, to the Wood-Nymphs ; 
and the water which supplies its 
Fountain is the Ovidian Alino. 
At the upper end of the Grotto 
are remains of a recumbent sta¬ 
tue, called Egeria; and round 
the walls are niches, apparently 
made for the reception of other 
statues. It seems probable that 
there were several of these Nym- 
phsea in the Egerian valley m . 

Tempio di Redicolo, or more 
properly Redeundo. This Temple, 
erected when Hannibal raised the 
siege of Rome, and returned to¬ 
ward Naples, was, therefore, call¬ 
ed the Temple o f the Return , as 
the word expresses. It is a beauti¬ 
ful brick edifice, adorned with pi¬ 
lasters ; and once had a portico, 
now quite destroyed. 

Porta-Pia. This Gate, built 
by Pius iv., was anciently called 
Porta-Noinentana ; because it led 
to Nomentum. 

Chiesa di S. Agnese fuori di 
Porta-Pia. This Edifice, which 

(»?) The lower classes of the Roman 
people go annually, on the first Sunday in 
May, to the Valley of Egeria; where they 
carouse and crown themselves with flowers; 
thence returning to Rome, like Baccha¬ 
nals, dancing and singing to various instru¬ 
ments of music. This festival commences 
with the dawn, and ends about mid-day. 

Near half a mile beyond the Porta 
S. Sebastiano, on the left, is a small ri- 


NEAR ROME. J65 

is about one mile from Rome, was 
erected by Constantine over the 
grave of S. Agnes, at the desire 
of his daughter Constantia. A cor¬ 
ridor, containing forty-eight steps 
of fine marble, leads down into 
the church; and on the walls of 
this corridor are ancient inscrip¬ 
tions. The nave is supported by 
sixteen antique columns; two of 
which are beautifully fluted ; and 
the only specimen of the kind now 
to be met with at Rome. Four 
other columns, near the high al¬ 
tar, are of rare marble ; and those 
which support the baldacchino 
are of the finest porphyry. The 
high altar is composed of precious 
marbles, and adorned with two 
antique Candelabra of bronze 
gilt; under it lie the ashes of S. 
Agnes. The Chapel of the Ma¬ 
donna contains a beautiful an¬ 
tique Candelabrum, and a head 
of our Saviour, by Buonaroti. 

Chiesa di S. Costanza. Near 
the church of S. Agnes is that 
of S. Costanza; dedicated, by 
Constantine, to Christian worship, 
that it might serve as a burial- 
place for his daughter. This ele¬ 
gant rotunda, supposed to have 
been originally a temple conse¬ 
crated to Bacchus, still retains its 
ancient form. The cupola is sup¬ 
ported by twenty-four granite co¬ 
lumns, placed in a double circle ; 
and in the middle of the church is 
an elevated square, on which the 
pagan altar seems formerly to 
have stood, and where the remains 

vulet, which, being impeded in its course, 
has formed a marsh : beyond this rivulet is 
a gradual ascent to the Chapel of Domine 
quo Vadis; where the road divides into 
two branches ; that on the left leading to 
the Tempio di Redeundo: and from the 
commencementofthe marsh to this temple, 
and perhaps beyond it, appears to have 
been the site of Hannibal’s Camp. 


1 66 

of S. Costanza afterward rested. 
That part of the roof nearest to 
the circular wall is adorned with 
beautiful ancient mosaics, repre¬ 
senting- a vintage, birds, and ara¬ 
besques ; and apparently executed 
when the arts were in their high¬ 
est perfection. The porphyry 
sarcophagus, ornamented with 
boys and grapes, which is now in 
the Vatican Museum, was taken 
from this temple. 

Adjoining to the church of S. 
Costanza are considerable remains 
of a Hippodrome , built by Con¬ 
stantine, where horses were trained 
and exercised 11 . 

A little further on, is the Villa - 
Faonte, where Nero was supposed 
to kill himself; and, about one 
mile from this villa, is the Ponte 
Lamentano, anciently Pons No- 
mentanus, near which are remains 
of two Sepulchres ; that on the 
left seems to have been the tomb 
of Menenius Agrippa , and now 
serves as a shelter for oxen ; the 
other is nearly destroyed. Imme¬ 
diately behind these tombs rises, 
in an amphitheatrical form, the 
Mons Saner; whither the Ple¬ 
beians retired, in the year of 
Rome 260, by the advice of Sici- 
nius ; till persuaded to return, by 
the eloquence of the above-named 
Menenius Agrippa: and whither 
they again retired, in the year of 
Rome 305, in consequence of the 
tyranny of Appius Claudius. 

Porta di S. Lorenzo. This 
edifice, originally one of the ar¬ 
ches of the Martian®, Tepulan, 
and Julian, aqueduct, was made 
into a City Gate by Aurelian; who 

(«) Beyond the Church of S. Costanza, 
on the right, in the Garden of the Villa 
Ruftini, is a Columbarium, recently disco¬ 
vered, and containing a large number of 
cinerary urns, human bones, and inscrip¬ 
tions. It appears to have been a public 
burial-place, 


[Ch. VII. 

called it Porta-Collatina , because 
it leads to Collatia, where Lucretia 
killed herself. 

Basilica di S. Lorenzo. About 
one mile from the gate of S. Lo¬ 
renzo is this church ; which was 
erected by Constantine on the 
foundations of a temple conse¬ 
crated to Neptune, of which there 
are considerable and beautiful re¬ 
mains ; namely, the six pillars of 
the portico, four of which are flu¬ 
ted ; two pillars of green porphyry 
at the extremity of the tribuna 
behind the high altar; four of red 
porphyry, which support the bal- 
dacchino; a fine antique cornice 
round the tribuna ; ten fluted co¬ 
lumns of pavonazzo, partly buried 
in the earth, two of them having 
military capitals, the other eight 
Corinthian capitals beautifully 
executed ; twenty-two columns of 
oriental granite, which support 
the nave ; together with some very 
ancient pavement, and some of 
the time of Constantine. To the 
right, on entering the church, is 
a Sarcophagus, adorned with bas- 
si-rilievi representing an ancient 
marriage-ceremony ! and, behind 
the high altar is another Sarco¬ 
phagus with Bacchanalian em¬ 
blems. The ashes of S. Lorenzo, 
and other Christian Martyrs, rest 
here. 

Porta Maggiore. This gate, 
formerly called Prcenestina, is one 
of the arches of the Castellum of the 
Claudian aqueduct, which convey¬ 
ed three streams of water to Rome ; 
two coming forty-five miles, and 
the third above sixty. It is prac¬ 
ticable, by the aid of a ladder, to 

(o) The Martian Aqueduct, an Etruscan 
work, merits notice, on account of its great 
antiquity ; as the Aqua Martia is supposed 
to have been conveyed to Rome from the 
Lake Fucinus, (above thirty miles distant,) 
by Ancus Martius. 


ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 


167 


ROME. 


Ch. vn.] 

ascend into this Aqueduct at the 
Gate of S. Lorenzo. The ancient 
Porta-Prcenestina seems to have 
been so called because it led to 
Prseneste ; and the modern name 
might, probably, have been given 
because the gate stands in the 
road to S. Maria Maggiore. 

About two miles distant from the 
Porta-Maggiore, and parallel with 
the ancient Via Prseneste, is a spot 
called Tor de' Schiavi; where, 
among other ruins of an ancient 
Roman Village, are the remains of 
three Temples, one of which is 
well preserved, and the subterra¬ 
nean part particularly merits no¬ 
tice. 

Porta S. Giovanni. This Gate 
anciently called Celimontana, from 
being placed on the Mons Calius, 
was restored by Gregory xm., ac¬ 
cording to the designs of Giacomo 
della Porta. 

The road beyond the Porta S. 
Giovanni exhibits magnificent re¬ 
mains of the Claudian, Tepulan, 
and Marcian aqueducts ; together 
with several ancient tombs : and 
previous to passing the Acqua 
Santa, formerly called Salutare , 
you see a small, square, brick 
edifice, adorned with Doric co¬ 
lumns, and supposed to have been 
the Temple of Fort ana Mulie- 
bris erected by the Roman Se¬ 
nate, in honour of the ladies, on 
the spot where Veturia and Vo- 
luinnia overcame the determina¬ 
tion of Coriolanus. This Temple 
was restored by Faustina the 
youngerP. Further on to the 
right, and about five miles from 
Rome, is a large farm, belonging 
to the Torlonia family, and called 
Roma Vecchia; but probably, 

(p) Between Rome and Torre di Mezza- 
via, on the left, are three of these square 
brick edifices; all of which appear to have 
been ancient Temples ; and that nearest to 


nothing more than an ancient 
Roman village ; (as the suburbs 
of the city could scarcely have ex¬ 
tended so far;) where, among- 
other ruins, are the remains of a 
Theatre, and Reservoirs of Baths, 
one of them being full of water * 
they precisely resemble the Sette 
Salle of the Baths of Titus. Be¬ 
yond these reservoirs, and still 
further to the right, is a peculiarly 
shaped Tomb, which belonged to 
the family of Cecilia Metella. 


GATES OF ROME, NOT ALREADY 
MENTIONED. 

Porta-Angelica , built by Pius 
iv. Near this gate passed the 
Via Triumphalis, which came 
down from the Clivus C inner, a 
part of the Janiculum, and now 
called Monte Mario. 

Porta-Latina, supposed to have 
been the Porta-Firentina. 

Porta-Pinciana, said to have 
taken its name from the palace of 
the Pincian family which stood 
near it, and from whom the whol 
hil(l was called Mons Pincius. 

Porta-Porte use, so denominated 
from the magnificent harbour of 
Porto, constructed by Claudius. 
The gardens, which Julius Csesar 
bequeathed to the people are sup¬ 
posed to have been near this 
gate. 

Porta di S. Pancrazio, anci¬ 
ently called Aurelia. By this 
Gate Trajan's Aqueduct enters 
Rome: its course is thirtj'-five 
miles; and in consequence of 
having been renewed and aug¬ 
mented bv Paul v., it is now 
called Acqua-Paolo. 

Torre di Mezza-via seems fo answer the 
description given of the Temple of Fortuna 
Mulie.hr>*, beUer than does any other edi- 
fice of this kind on the road to Albano. 


ROME. 


16 S 

BRIDGES OP ROME. 

Pons JElius, now Ponte S. 
Angelo. This fine bridge was 
constructed by the Emperor Adri¬ 
an, and repaired by Clement ix.; 
who, under the direction of Ber¬ 
nini, adorned it with balustrades 
and statues, which still remain. 

Pons Triumphalis, so called, 
because the Roman generals pass¬ 
ed over this bridge, when they ob¬ 
tained the honour of a triumph. 

It is now destroyed : but its re- 

•> / 

mains may be discovered between 
the Castle of S. Angelo and the 
Church of S. Giovanni de’ Fioren- 
tini when the Tiber is low. 

Ponte Sisto , formerly called 
Pons Janiculensis, on account 
of its proximity to the Janiculum 
hill. According to some opinions 
this bridge was built by Trajan ; 
and, according to others, by An¬ 
toninus Pius. It was repaired by 
Sextus iv., and in consequence, 
called by his name. 

Pons Fabricius, now Ponte 
Dei Quattro Capi. This bridge 
was constructed, in the year of 
Rome 73S, by Fabrieius, Curator 
Viarum (inspector of roads,) and 
called Quattro Capi from two 
Herime of Janus Quadrifrons, with 
which it was ornamented. 

Pons Cestius , now Ponte di S. 
Bartolomeo. This bridge was 
constructed by Cestius, in the 
time of the Republic, and repaired 
about the year 375 of the Chris¬ 
tian sera. 


[Cli. VII. 

Pons Palatums, or Senator ins, 
broken down, and now called 
Ponte Rotto. This was the first 
edifice of its kind which the an¬ 
cient Romans built of stone. The 
Censor Fulvius, is supposed to 
have begun, and Scipio Africanus 
and L. Mummius to have finished 
it. Julius iii., and Gregory xm., 
repaired this bridge; but the ex¬ 
traordinary inundations of 1598, 
totally destroyed it. 

Pons Sublicius. This Bridge, 
the first thrown over the Tiber, 
was the work of Ancus Marti us ; 
and acquired the name of Sub¬ 
licius from the wooden piles 
which supported it. On this bridge 
Horatius Codes stopped the army 
of Porsenna, till the Romans had 
broken down that part which was 
behind their gallant Leader ; who 
then threw himself into the river, 
and swam to Rome. After that 
event the planks were laid across, 
without being fixed with nails, 
that they might be removed, in 
case of sudden danger. This 
bridge was repaired, under Au¬ 
gustus, by M. ZEmilius Lepidus ; 
and afterward by Antoninus Pius: 
but an inundation, in the year 780, 
broke it down ; and under Nicolas 
v. it was wholly destroyed. From 
this bridge the bodies of Coin- 
modus and Heliogabalus were 
thrown into the Tiber ; and when 
that, river is low, the remains of 
the foundations of the bridge may 
be seen from Ripa-grande. 



169 


CHAPTER VIII. 

ROME. 


Basilica di S. Pietro—Obelisk—Fountains—Colonnades—Covered Galleries—Exterior 
decorations of the Church—Interior dimensions, 4 c .—Subterranean Church—Ascent 
to the Cupola and the top of S. Peter’s—Old Sacristy—New Sacristy—Vaticano— 
Museo-Cliiaramonti—Museo-Pio-Clementino—Libreria-Vaticano—Chiesa dei P. P. 
Cappuccini—Palazzi Barberini and Albani—Chiesa di S. Maria della Vittoria—Fontana 
di Pennine—Chiesa diS. Andrea—Palazzo-Pontificio—Palazzo-Rospigliosi—Garden of 
ditto—Villa Aldobrandini—Fontana di Trevi—Chiesedi S. Maria del Popolo—S. Carlo 
al Corso—S. Lorenzo in Lucina—S.Ignazio—de’ S. S. Apostoli—diS. Maria di Loretto 
—Gesii—S. Andrea della Valle—della Trinita de’Pelegrini—di S. Carlo a Catenari— 
S. Giovanni de’ Fiorentini—S. Maria in Vallicella—S. Maria della Pace—S. Agostino— 
Palazzi Borghese — Sciarra — Doria— Bracciano — Colonna —Giustiniani—Massimi— 
Braschi —Farnese—Spada— Mattei—Costaguti— Faleonieri—Farnesina—Corsini—Ac- 
cademia di S. Luca—Villa Olgiati—Borghese—Ludovisia—Albani—Mattei—Church of 
S. Onofrio—Foutana-Paolina — Villa-Doria-Pamfili — Madama—Mellini — Hospitals—• 
Mosiac Manufacture—Artists—Bankers—Theatres—Carnival—Festival on the Monte 
Testaccio—Amusements during Lent—Ceremonies of the Holy Week—Illumination of 
S. Peter’s—Fireworks—Hays on which the Pope officiates in public—Funeral of the 
exiled Queen of Spain—Entertainments given to the Emperor of Austria—Kindness 
of the present Pope to the British Nation—Promenades—Hotels—List of Objects best 
worth uotice, as they lie contiguous to each other. 


Basilica di S. Pietro. S. Pe¬ 
ter’s is placed on the summit of 
a gentle acclivity, in an immense 
Piazza of an oval form, once the 
Circus of Nero. Its centre is 
adorned with an Obelisk of red 
Egyptian Granite; the only one 
which has been preserved entire ; 
it was transported from Heliopolis 
to Rome by order of Caligula; 
and afterward placed, by Nero, 
in his Circus*!: it measures one 
hundred and twenty - four feet 
from the ground to the top ol the 
cross ; and was erected by Sixtus 
v., under the direction ol Fon¬ 
tana ; who, in order to raise it 
out of the earth in which it lay 
buried, contrived forty-one ma¬ 
chines with strong ropes and iron 
rollers ; and though all the powers 
of these machines were applied at 


once, by means of eight hundred 
men and one hundred and sixty 
horses, the work was not accom¬ 
plished under eight days: and to 
transport the Obelisk to the place 
where it now stands, though only 
three hundred paces from the spot 
where it lay, cost four months’ 
labour. But the greatest proof 
of Fontana’s skill in mechanics 
was displayed when he elevated 
this stupendous mass, and fixed it 
in its present situation, by the aid 
of machines consisting of fifty-two 
powers, all of which were applied 
at the same moment, in obedience 
to pre-concerted signals. Being 
raised to a proper height, it was 
placed, amidst the acclamations 
of the people and the discharge of 
cannon from the Castle of S. An¬ 
gelo, on the backs of four lions. 


(q) The dimensions of the vessel which conveyed this Obelisk to Rome, 
are given by Fliny, Lib, xvi. Cay. 40. 


170 


ROME. 


without any cement: its own pon¬ 
derosity being sufficient to ensure 
it from falling*. Report says, how¬ 
ever, that Fontana nearly miscar¬ 
ried in this last operation; the 
ropes having stretched so much 
more than lie expected, that the 
Obelisk could not have been raised 
high enough to rest on its pe¬ 
destal, if an English sailor, at a 
time when every spectator was 
restricted from speaking, lest the 
signals should not be heard by the 
workmen, had not, in defiance to 
this order, called out—“Wet the 
ropes which, being accordingly 
done, the Obelisk was raised 
immediately to its destined height. 
One of the beautiful Fountains 
that adorn this Piazza was erected 
by Innocent vm.; the other 
by Clement x.; and the Colon¬ 
nades (deemed a master piece of 
architecture) were built by Ber¬ 
nini, during the Pontificate of 
Alexander vn. Their form is 
semi-circular ; and they consist of 
two hundred and eighty-four large 
Doric columns of Travertino, in¬ 
termixed with eighty-eight pilas¬ 
ters, and forming, on each side of 
the Piazza, a triple portico, that 
in the centre being sufficiently 
spacious for two carriages to pass 
each other. The height of these 
colonnades is sixty-one feet, the 
breadth fifty-six feet, and on the 
entablature is a balustrade adorned 
with one hundred and ninety-two 
statues, each being eleven feet and 
a half in height. The Fountains 
were made after the designs of 
Carlo Maderno; they throw a 
considerable body of water nine 
feet high ; and the circular basins 
which receive this water are entire 
pieces of oriental granite, fifty feet 


[Ch. vm. 

in circumference. Beyond the co¬ 
lonnades arc two magnificent co¬ 
vered Galleries, or Cloisters, each 
being three hundred and sixty feet 
long, and leading to the Vestibule 
of the Basilica, which stands on 
the summit of a noble flight of 
steps, adorned with statues of S. 
Peter and S. Paul, by Mino di 
Fiesole. The Vestibule (which is 
four hundred and thirty-nine feet 
long, by thirty-seven wide and 
sixty-two feet high,) contains 
equestrian statues of Constantine 
and Charlemagne r ; together 
with a celebrated Mosaic, by Gi¬ 
otto, called La Navicella di S. 
Pietro. The front of the Basi¬ 
lica, which was built according to 
the designs of Carlo Maderno, is 
adorned with immense Corinthian 
columns and pilasters of Traver¬ 
tino ; and terminated by a balus¬ 
trade surmounted by thirteen co¬ 
lossal statues, seventeen feet in 
height, and representing our Sa¬ 
viour and the Apostles. The 
basso-rilievo, under the balcony 
in the centre of the building, is by 
Buonvicino, and represents our 
Saviour giving the keys to S. 
Peter. The centre door of the 
church is bronze, adorned with 
bassi-rilievi ; and was made dur¬ 
ing the Pontificate of Eugenius 
iv.; and over this door is a basso- 
rilievo, by Bernini, representing 
our Saviour intrusting the care of 
his flock to S. Peter. The cir¬ 
cumstance of that Apostle having 
been buried in the Circus of Nero 
induced Constantine to erect, over 
his remains, a spacious church; 
which, having stood eleven cen¬ 
turies, and, at length, falling into 
decay, Nicholas v. began to re¬ 
build it, about the year IdoO, after 


(r) The statue of Charlemagne was done by Agoslino Cornaccliini, and 
that of Constantine by Bernini. 


Ch. VIII.] 

the plans of Rosellini and Alberti: 
his successors, however, discon¬ 
tinued the work, till the Pontificate 
of Paul ii., under whom it went 
on. Julius ii., who was elected 
Pope about thirty years after the 
death of Paul, chose the famous 
Bramante as his architect; and 
this artist formed the design of 
erecting a cupola in the centre of 
the edifice. On the demise of 
Julius and Bramante, Leo x. in¬ 
trusted the Avork to Raphael, and 
other artists ; after whose death 
Paul in. chose Sangallo as his 
architect; and, upon the decease 
of this artist, the last-mentioned 
Pope committed the work to Bu- 
onaroti, Avho made a new design 
for the cupola: he likewise in¬ 
tended to have erected a portico, 
resembling that of the Pantheon; 
but death frustrated his purpose. 
Succeeding artists, however, were 
directed to go on with his cupola; 
which Avas completed during the 
Pontificate of Sixtus v. Carlo 
Maderno finished the other part of 
the church, in the Pontificate of 
Paul v.; and Pius vi. erected the 
new Sacristy. Buonaroti intended 
to haA r e built S. Peter’s in the 
form of a Greek cross ; but Carlo 
Maderno folloAved the plan of 
Bramante, and made a Latin one. 
In the year 1694, this edifice Avas 
supposed to have cost 47,000,000 
Roman croAvns ; and much more 
has been since expended for the 
Mosaics, the neAV Sacristy, §c. 

The interior length of S. Pe¬ 
ter's from the entrance-door to the 
end of the tribuna, is six hundred 
and thirteen English feet; the 
breadth of the nave tAvo hundred 
and seven, the breadth of the cross 
seventy-eight, the diameter of the 
cupola one hundred and thirty- 


171 

nine, the height, from the pave¬ 
ment to the first gallery, one hun¬ 
dred and seventy-four, to the se¬ 
cond gallery, tAvo hundred and 
forty, to the representation of the 
Deity in the lantern, three hundred 
and ninety-three, and to the sum¬ 
mit of the exterior cross, four hun¬ 
dred and fifty-eight feet s . So ad¬ 
mirably proportioned is this church, 
that, notwithstanding its immense 
size, no person, at first sight, per¬ 
ceives the dimensions to be re¬ 
markably large: and the statues of 
children, which support the vases 
for holy Avater, do not appear more 
than three feet in height, though 
they are really gigantic. The in¬ 
terior of this master-piece of hu¬ 
man genius is incrusted Avith rare 
and beautiful marbles, adorned 
Avith the finest pictures in mosaic 
existing, and supported by an im¬ 
mense number of magnificent co¬ 
lumns, the greater part of Avhich 
are antique ; and seven, if report 
speak true, Avere taken from Solo¬ 
mon’s Temple. The pavement is 
marble, and very handsome. 

The Sacra Confessione Avas 
designed by Carlo Maderno, and 
is superbly decorated Avith costly 
lamps and precious marbles. The 
BaldacchinoAvas erected by Urban 
viii, after the designs of Bernini; 
and is made of bronze gilt, and 
nearly ninety feet high. The de¬ 
signs for the mosaics in the Cupola 
under which the baldacchino stands, 
Avere draAvn by Giuseppe d’Ar- 
pino ; and the Evangelists parti¬ 
cularly merit notice ; as does the 
statue of S. Andrew near the high 
altar, by Du Quesnoy, and that of 
S. Domenico, by Le Gros. The 
bronze statue of S. Peter is 
said to have been cast during the 
Pontificate of Gregory the Great, 


ROME. 


(«) These dimensions are taken from a table in manuscript, hung up in the lower 

gallery of the Cupola, 


m 


ROME. 


[Ch.VIII. 


from the fragments of a demolished 
statue of Jupiter Capitolinas. At 
the upper end of the middle nave is 
the Tribuna, decorated according 
to the designs of Buonaroti; and 
containing the Chair of S. Peter ; 
above which the Holy Ghost is re¬ 
presented in painted glass, in the 
form of a dove. On each side of 
the Tribuna is a magnificent Mo¬ 
nument ; that on the right, by Ber¬ 
nini, being in memory of Urban 
viit., (whose statue is finely exe¬ 
cuted in bronze ;) and that on the 
left designed by Buonaroti, and 
executed by Guglielmo della Por¬ 
ta, in memory of Paul hi. !! it re¬ 
presents Prudence as an old wo¬ 
man, and Justice as a girl, so beau¬ 
tiful that a Spaniard, Pygmalion 
like, is said to have fallen in love 
with this statue; in consequence of 
which it was clothed with a bronze 
garment. Near the tribuna is the 
tomb of Alexander vin., adorned 
with a beautiful basso-rilievo, by 
Angelo Rossi ; and over the altar 
of S. Leo the Great, between co¬ 
lumns of red oriental granite, is an 
alto-rilievo of that Pope threaten¬ 
ing Attila, King of the Huns, with 
the vengeance of S. Peter and 
S. Paul, by Algardi!! Near this 
altar are two fine Mosaics 1 ; the 
one representing the crucifixion of 
S. Paul, being a copy from a cele¬ 
brated picture, by Guido • the other 
representing the fall of Simon 
Magus, was copied from a cele¬ 
brated pictureby Francesco V anni. 
Further on is a Mosaic of Raphael's 
Transfiguration ; and near it the 
Tomb of Leo xi., by Algardi. 

(t) These Mosaics, called Roman, consist 
of small pieces of glass (some of them being 
scarcely larger than pins’ heads) tinctured 
with all the different degrees of colour ne¬ 
cessary to form a picture: and, when the 
mosaics are finished, they are polished in 
the same manner as mirrors. The ground 
on which these vitreous particles are placed 
consists of calcined marble, fine sand, gum* 


On this side of the church is the 
Capella del Coro, where the 
Cardinals, Canons, fyc., assemble 
daily, to attend divine worship ; 
and where there frequently is par¬ 
ticularly good music. Not far 
hence, in an unornamented tomb, 
rest the remains of Pius vi.; illus¬ 
trious for the patience and resigna¬ 
tion he displayed in adversity 11 ; 
and over the door which leads to 
the Cupola is a monument to the 
memory of Maria Clementina So- 
bieschi, with her picture copied in 
mosaic by the Cav. Cristofari, 
from a painting by Sterne. The 
last Chapel on this side contains 
the baptismal Font, originally the 
tomb of the Emperor Otho n.; it 
consists of porphyry, with bronze 
ornaments, executed by Fontana. 
Over the altar in this Chapel is a 
fine Mosaic, copied from a cele¬ 
brated picture by Carlo Maratta, 
representing the baptism of our 
Saviour. On the opposite side of 
the church is a Chapel containing 
a Pieta by Buonaroti, which ap¬ 
pears to disadvantage from not 
being equally colossal with almost 
every other surrounding object; 
the Frescos here are by Lanfranco: 
on this side, likewise, is a Chapel 
containing a Column said to be 
that against which our Saviour 
leaned when he disputed with 
the Doctors ; and a Sarcophagus 
which once enclosed the ashes of 
Probus Anicius, Prefect of Rome. 
The Braschi-Chapel contains a 
Crucifix, by Ghirlandajo. Further 
on, toward the high altar, is the 
tomb of Christina of Sweden, by 

tragacanth, whites of eggs, and oil; which 
composition continues, for some time, so 
soft that there is no difficulty either in ar¬ 
ranging the pieces, or altering any which 
may have been improperly placed : but, by 
degrees, it grows as hard as marble; so that 
no impression can be made on the work. 

(u) A monument to the memory of this 
unfortunate Pontiff is now erected." 


173 


Ch. VIII.] ROME. 


Fontana; and over the altar of 
the Chapel of S. Sehastiano is a 
fine Mosaic of the martyrdom of 
that Saint, copied from a cele¬ 
brated picture, by Domenichino. 
Beyond this Chapel is the tomb of 
the Countess Matilda (who died in 
1115,) by Bernini ; and opposite 
to the Cappella del Coro is the 
Cappella del Sacramento, which 
contains a rich Tabernacle, made 
after the designs of Bernini, and 
an Altar-Piece painted in fresco 
by Pietro di Cortona ; here, like¬ 
wise, is the tomb of Sixtus iv., in 
bronze, adorned with bassi-rilievi 
by Antonio Pollajuolo. Further 
on is the tomb ot’ Gregory xtii., 
adorned with statues of Religion 
and Energy, the latter of which is 
much admired ; and near this mo¬ 
nument is a beautiful copy, in 
mosaic, of Domenichino's chef- 
d'cevre , the communion of S. Giro¬ 
lamo ; for which picture he received 
only three crowns. Further on, 
is a copy, in mosaic, of the martyr¬ 
dom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo 
Poussin. Nearer still to the tri- 
buna is a copy, in mosaic, of S. 
Peter sinking, by Lanfranco : and 
opposite to this Mosaic is the mo * 
nument of Clement xni., by Cano- 
va, who has adorned it with recum¬ 
bent statues of two lions, both ex¬ 
cellently executed, and especially 
that which sleeps. Further on is 
a copy, in mosaic, of Guido’s chef- 
d'oeuvre, the Arch-Angel Michael, 
and likewise a copy, in mosaic, of 
Guercino’s celebrated picture, re¬ 
presenting the story of S. Petro- 
nilla. This is deemed the finest 
Mosaic in S. Peter’s ; and was 
executed by the Cav. Cristofari. 
Beyond the altar of S. Petronilla 
is the monument of Clement x., 
whose statue was done by Ercole 
Ferrata: and opposite to this 


tomb is a copy, in mosaic, of S. 
Peter raising Tabitha, by Placido 
Costanzi. The Mosaics which 
adorn the small cupolas, ten in 
number, are executed after the 
designs of celebrated painters. 

Under S. Peter’s is a subter¬ 
ranean Church, built by Constan¬ 
tine, into which ladies are not 
usually allowed to descend with¬ 
out permission from the Pope ; 
this permission, however, may 
easily be obtained. 

At the entrance of the circu¬ 
lar corridor of the subterranean 
Church is the Cappella della Con- 
fessione, built in the form of a 
Latin cross ; and immediately un¬ 
der the high altar of the new 
church. Clement vm. adorned 
this chapel with precious marbles, 
and twenty-four bronze bassi- 
rilievi, representing memorable 
events in the lives of S. Peter and 
S. Paul, whose portraits, painted 
on silver, adorn the altar which 
covers S. Peter's ashes. Oppo¬ 
site to this chapel is the Sarco¬ 
phagus of Junius Bassus, Pre¬ 
fect of Rome ; who died in the 
year 359. Here, likewise, are se¬ 
veral other tombs ; namely, that 
of Charlotte, Queen of Jerusa¬ 
lem and Cyprus; that of the 
Stuarts : and those of Adrian iv., 
Boniface vm., Nicholas v., Ur¬ 
ban vi., and Pius n. Here, also, 
are a considerable number of Sta¬ 
tues ; and among them one of 
St. Peter; together with bassi- 
rilievi, ancient Mosaics, and in¬ 
teresting Inscriptions. The height 
of the subterranean church is 
between eleven and twelve Eng¬ 
lish feet; and the pavement the 
same as in the days of Constan¬ 
tine. 

The door under the monument 
of Maria-Clementina Sobieski 


174 


ROME. 


[Ch. VIII. 


leads to a staircase, consisting- of 
one hundred and forty-two steps, 
by which mules might mount 
nearly to the top of S. Peter’s— 
so easy is the ascent—and on one 
of the landing-places the Custode 
of the Cupola may usually be 
found. It is impossible to form 
a just idea of the size of this 
wonderful church, without seeing 
the upper part; and equally im¬ 
possible to appreciate the archi¬ 
tectural merit of the great cupola 
without examining its construc¬ 
tion. This stupendous fabric is 
double ; and by means of stair¬ 
cases, between the exterior and 
interior walls, it is not difficult 
to ascend into the lantern ; the 
ball on the top of which mea¬ 
sures twenty-four feet in circum¬ 
ference. 

The old Sacristy of S. Peter’s, 
(a rotunda,) is supposed to have 
been a Temple of Apollo, which 
stood at the side of Nero’s Cir¬ 
cus ; the new Sacristy was built 
after the designs of Carlo Mar- 
chionni; and communicates with 
the Basilica by means of two cor¬ 
ridors: it is divided into nearly 
equal parts ; one serving for a 
Sacristy, the other being appro¬ 
priated to the Canons. In the 
Vestibule is a statue of S. An¬ 
drew, together with columns and 
pilasters of red oriental granite. 
This apartment leads to three gal¬ 
leries, adorned with fine columns 
of African marble, pilasters and 
busts. Opposite to the door of 
the great Sacristy is a staircase, 
whose landing-place is adorned 
with a statue of Pius vi. The great 
Sacristy is an octagon, fifty feet 
in diameter, adorned with antique 
columns and pilasters, which sup¬ 
port a cupola; and its chapel con¬ 
tains four columns of bardiglio di 


Carrara. The Sacristy of the 
Canons is furnished with presses 
of Brazil-wood; and contains a 
picture, by Francesco Penni, of 
S. Anne, fyc .; ditto by Giulio 
Romano, of the Madonna, our 
Saviour, and S. John; and two 
paintings by Cavallucci. Another 
apartment contains pictures of 
the ancient Florentine school, 
two paintings, by Ghezzi, a dead 
Christ, attributed to Buonaroti, a 
picture, by Muziani, and two 
paintings by Cavalucci. 

Vaticano. Some writers sup¬ 
pose this Palace to have been 
erected by Nero, and afterward 
bestowed, by Constantine, upon 
the Roman Pontiffs ; while others 
are of opinion that it was built by- 
Constantine on the site of the Gar¬ 
dens of Nero: it seems to have re¬ 
ceived augmentations from almost 
every succeeding Sovereign ; in¬ 
somuch that its present circum¬ 
ference is computed to be near 
seventy thousand feet. The Scala 
Regia, or great Staircase, at 
whose foot stands the statue of 
Constantine, was constructed by 
Bernini; and leads to the Sala 
Regia, built by Sangallo, and 
containing Frescos, with Latin in¬ 
scriptions, explanatory of the sub¬ 
jects. The first painting over the 
staircase-door represents Char¬ 
lemagne signing the donation of 
the Church, and is by Taddeo 
Zuccari; another represents the 
entry of Gregory xi., into Rome 
accompanied by S. Catherine of 
Siena, and is by Vasari; another, 
over the door leading to the Cap- 
pella-Paolina, is divided into three 
parts: that to the right repre¬ 
senting Gregory vn. withdraw¬ 
ing the censures cast on Henry i v., 
in the fortress of Canossa ; that 
on the left representing the city of 


Ch. VIII.] 

Tunis reconquered under Charles 
v.: the third represents Victory 
and Glory. These painting’s are 
by Taddeo and Federico Zuc- 
cari. 

The Cappella-Sistina, adjoin¬ 
ing to the Sala Regia, was built 
by Sixtus iv., according to the 
designs of Baccio Pintelli of Flo¬ 
rence, and its ceiling painted by 
Buonaroti in twenty months, so 
entirely without assistance that 
even the colours he used were 
prepared by himself. The Pro¬ 
phets and Sibyls, the figure of 
the Deity, and those of Adam 
and Eve, are particularly ad¬ 
mired!!! The last Judgment, 
likewise by Buonaroti, occupies 
the whole wall behind the altar ; 
lie was three years in doing it: 
and parts of this immense fresco 
are wonderfully fine x . The other 
walls are adorned with Frescos, 
representing scripture-histories, 
by Pietro Perugino, and his Flo¬ 
rentine contemporaries. The 
heads, by Perugino, are fine. 

Opposite to the Cappella-Sistina 
is the Cappella-Paolina, erected 
by Paul hi. after the designs of 
Sangallo. The two columns of 
porphyry, on the sides of the al¬ 
tar, were found in the Temple of 
Romulus ; and toward the end of 
each are two infants in basso-ri- 
lievo. The statues in the angles 
.are by Prospero Bresciano. The 
paintings, which represent the 
Conversion of S. Paul, and the 
Crucifixion of S. Peter, are by 
Buonaroti; and the fall of Simon 
Magus, friezes, and ornaments of 
the ceiling are by Federico Zuccari. 

The Sacristy, near the Cap- 


175 

pella-Sistina, contains magnifi¬ 
cent plate and jewels. 

The Ceiling of the Sala Du- 
cale is decorated with arabesques, 
by Lorenzino da Bologna, and 
Raphaellino da Reggio. 

The Loggia, or open Gallery, 
above the Sala Ducale, leads to 
the Stanze di Rafaello ; and is 
embellished with Arabesques, in¬ 
terspersed with Scripture-Histo¬ 
ries, by that great artist and his 
scholars. Some of the finest of 
these frescos are, God dividing the 
light from the darkness, by Ra¬ 
phael ; Joseph explaining his 
dreams, by Giulio Romana ; Jo¬ 
seph sold to the Ishmaelites ; Jo¬ 
seph explaining the dreams of 
Pharaoh ; and the baptism of the 
Saviour; by Raphael. The greater 
part of the small bassi-rilievi in 
this gallery are antique, and sup¬ 
posed to have been taken from the 
Colisseum, the Baths of Caracalla, 
and the Villa of Adrian. 

The Stanze di Rafaello con¬ 
tain some of the very finest frescos 
existing; but the injuries these 
apartments have received from 
time, and still more from the 
smoke made in them by German 
soldiers, when Rome was taken 
by assault, A. D. 1528, has ren¬ 
dered the paintings with which 
they are adorned less striking, at 
first sight, than many other fres¬ 
cos : indeed Cignani, a celebrated 
artist, admired them so little, on a 
cursory review, that Carlo Ma- 
ratta, provoked by his want of 
penetration, requested him to copy 
one of the heads in the fire of the 
Borgo. Cignani began ; rubbed 
out; began again; and again 


ROME. 


(x) The following lines contain a fair comment on this picture : 
“ Good Michael Angelo, I do not jest, 

Thy pencil a great judgment hath exprest ; 

But in that judgment, thou, alas, hast shown 
A very little judgment of thy own!" 


176 

rubbed out; till, at length, after 
several fruitless attempts, he threw 
away his pencil, exclaiming, “Ra¬ 
phael is inimitable!” 

The Stanze di Rafaello are 
four in number, namely ; the Sala 
di Costantino ; the Sala d'Elio- 
doro; the Sala della Scuola di 
Atene ; and the Sala di I'lncen - 
dio. The apartment leading to 
them is adorned with frescos by 
Raphael, representing the Apos¬ 
tles ; and also contains the Cha¬ 
pel of Nicholas v., painted by 
Angelo di Fiesole, the pupil of 
Masaccio. 

The Hall of Constantine was 
designed by Raphael, and co¬ 
loured, after his death, by his 
scholars. The first picture, on 
the right, represents Constantine 
addressing his troops before the 
battle with Maxentius, and was 
coloured by Giulio Romano. Ra¬ 
phael has represented the moment 
when the cross appears in the air, 
supported by Angels, who are sup¬ 
posed to be saying to Constantine, 
“ Conquer by this.” The dwarf 
of Julius n., putting on a helmet, 
forms an absurd episode in the 
picture. The next painting re¬ 
presents the battle of Constan¬ 
tine, fought against Maxentius, 
near the Ponte Molle, A. D. 
312: it was coloured by Giulio 
Romano, Pierino del Yaga, Ra¬ 
faello del Colie, and Polidoro da 
Caravaggio ; and is, according to 
some opinions, the first picture in 
the first class of great works. The 
most striking groups are, an old 
soldier raising his dying son ; two 
soldiers fighting, in the same part 
of the picture ; and in the oppo¬ 
site part, Maxentius in the Tiber, 
vainly struggling to extricate him¬ 
self. The third picture repre¬ 
sents the baptism of Constantine, 
by Pope Silvester ; and was co¬ 


[Ch. VIII. 

loured by Francesco Penni. Ra¬ 
phael has chosen, for the scene of 
action, the Baptistery, built by 
Constantine, after he had em¬ 
braced Christianity, and sup¬ 
posed to be that of S. Giovanni 
in Laterano. The fourth pic¬ 
ture, which was coloured by Ra¬ 
faello del Colie, represents the 
donation of the patrimony of the 
church, by Constantine. The com¬ 
position is admired; but the 
figures of Constantine and the 
Pope are said to want majesty. 
This picture is full of episodes ; 
namely, soldiers driving the spec¬ 
tators back between the columns ; 
a beggar imploring charity ; and 
a father and son answering him ; 
a woman with her back only 
visible, who leans upon two 
other women, in order to see the 
ceremony; and a child mounted 
on a dog. In the second room 
is a picture, coloured by Ra¬ 
phael, which represents Heliodorus 
(Treasurer of Seleucus, King of 
Asia,) who came to pillage the 
Temple at Jerusalem, thrown 
down and vanquished by two An¬ 
gels and a warrior on horseback ; 
whom God sent to the aid of his 
High Priest Onias; a circum¬ 
stance recorded in the second 
Book of Maccabees. This pic¬ 
ture is extremely admired ; espe¬ 
cially the Angels, who are pur¬ 
suing Heliodorus with such rapi¬ 
dity that they seem to fly. The 
Warrior on horseback is strikingly 
fine: the Temple appears swept 
of the people in a moment; while, 
in the back-ground, Onias is dis¬ 
covered, at the altar, invoking 
Heaven. The episode of Julius n., 
coming into the Temple on men's 
shoulders, appears to have been a 
foolish whim of his; with which 
Raphael was unfortunately obliged 
to comply, by way of represent- 


ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] ROME. 177 


mg that Julius, like Onias, deli¬ 
vered the Church from its op¬ 
pressors. The Pope’s chair- 
bearer, on the left, is a portrait of 
Giulio Romano. In the same room 
is another picture, called, the mi¬ 
racle of Bolsena: it was coloured 
by Raphael; and represents a 
priest who doubted the real pre¬ 
sence of our Saviour in the Eu¬ 
charist ; till, being- on the point of 
consecrating- the wafer, he saw 
blood drop from it. This picture 
is much admired ; and was ex¬ 
tremely difficult to compose ; from 
being- painted round a window, 
which cuts it nearly in half. Ju¬ 
lius ir., is again broug-ht forward 
in an episode ; and supposed to 
be hearing- mass ; but as the head 
of the Church is not to question 
the real presence in the Eucha¬ 
rist, he testifies no surprise at the 
miracle; though the people, in 
general, express great astonish¬ 
ment ; in which the Swiss guards 
coldly participate. The heads of 
the Cardinals, the Pope, and the 
Pi •iests saying mass, are deemed 
very beautiful ,* as is the colouring 
of the picture. The third paint¬ 
ing in this room, celebrated for its 
composition and groups of figures, 
represents Attila, King of the 
Huns, advancing against Rome, 
and discovering, in the air, S. 
Peter and S. Paul descending to 
arrest his progress. Raphael lias 
chosen the moment when the 
apostles are not discovered by the 
army in general, but by Attila 
alone. Pope S. Leo appears on a 
mule, followed by Cardinals ; but 
Attila attends only to the Apos¬ 
tles. The figure which repre¬ 
sents S. Leo is a portrait ot 
Leo x.; and the Mace-bearer, on 
the white horse before the Pope, 
is a portrait of Raphael’smaster, 
Pietro Perugino. Tho two Sar- 


matian horsemen, near Attila, are 
copied from Trajan’s column. The 
fourth picture in this room was 
coloured by Raphael, and repre¬ 
sents S. Peter delivered from pri¬ 
son by an Angel: it contains a 
double action, lirst S. Peter, in 
prison, waked by the Angel; and 
secondly S. Peter, going out of 
prison, conducted by the Angel. 
The Apostle’s figure is not ad¬ 
mired ; but that of the Angel is 
charming; and the manner in 
which the lights are managed is 
inimitable. The third room con¬ 
tains a picture, coloured by Ra¬ 
phael, winch represents the School 
of Athens ; and is, in point of ex¬ 
pression, a wonderful work; for 
every Philosopher, by his posture 
and gestures, characterizes his 
doctrines and opinions. The scene 
is laid in a magnificent building, 
imitated from the original designs 
which Bramante and Buonaroti 
made for the church of S. Pietro 
in Vaticano. In the centre of the 
picture are Plato and Aristotle, 
the masters of the school, standing 
on the top of a flight of steps, and 
apparently debating on some phi¬ 
losophical subject: near them is 
Socrates, counting with his fin¬ 
gers, and speaking to a fine mar¬ 
tial figure, who represents Alci- 
biades. Next to Socrates, and 
distinguished by a venerable 
beard, is Nicouiaehus; and be¬ 
low this group is a young man in 
white, with his hand upon his 
breast, said to be the portrait of 
Francesco, Duke of Urbino, ne¬ 
phew to Julius ii. Next to Fran¬ 
cesco stands Terpander, the Greek 
musician, with his eyes fixed on 
Pythagoras, who is writing ; and, 
before whom, a youth holds a 
tablet, which contains the har¬ 
monic consonances. Next to 
Nicomachus is Alexander the 

N 


178 


ROME. 


[Ch. VIII 


Great; and near Aristotle stands 
a corpulent bald-headed figure, 
said to be the portrait of Car¬ 
dinal Bembo. At the feet of 
Alcibiades, and clothed in the 
oriental garb, is Averroes, an 
Arabian philosopher ; and im¬ 
mediately behind him, is the pro¬ 
file of Aspasia. On a line with 
Pythagoras, seated at a table, and 
apparently in deep meditation, is 
Epictetus; and beyond him, sit¬ 
ting alone, on the second step, is 
Diogenes, with a cup by his side, 
and a scroll in his hand. Ra¬ 
phael has pictured the great ar¬ 
chitect, Bramante, under the cha¬ 
racter of Archimedes; who is 
tracing an hexagonal figure. The 
youth who stands behind Archi¬ 
medes, in an attitude of admira¬ 
tion, is said to represent Fede- 
rigo Gonzaga, first Duke of Man¬ 
tua. The philosopher who wears 
a crown and holds a globe in his 
hand, is Zoroaster; at whose side 
stand two persons, the younger of 
whom, with a black cap, is a portrait 
of Raphael, the elder, of Pietro Pe- 
rugino. Talking with Zoroaster, 
and also holding a globe, is a 
figure said to represent Giovanni, 
of the House of Antistes. On 
the opposite side of the school, 
and next to the base of a column, 
is Empedocles seated, and attend¬ 
ing to Pythagoras. The old head, 
which appears just above the book 
placed on the base of the column, 
is Epicharmus ; and the Child 
with fine hair, just above Aspasia, 
is Archytas. Connoisseurs deem 
the composition of this picture ad¬ 
mirable ; the colouring soft and 
good ; and the figures elegant and 
well draped: and as the episodes 
relate to the subject, they add ma¬ 
terially to the interest excited by 
this piece. In the same room is a 
painting the upper part of which 


represents the three virtues which 
ought to accompany Justice; 
namely, Prudence, Temperance, 
and Fortitude. The lower part 
represents, on the left, Justinian 
giving the Digests to Trebonian ; 
and, on the right, Gregory ix., 
under the figure of Julius n., pre¬ 
senting his Decretals to an advo¬ 
cate. Opposite to the school of 
Athens is a painting, called Theo¬ 
logy, which represents the dispute 
relative to the Holy Sacrament; 
and was coloured by Raphael. 
The composition of the lower part 
of this picture, and especially the 
group of S. Augustine dictating 
to a youth, is extremely admired; 
but the upper part, namely, the 
Blessed Trinity, the Madonna, 
and S. John the Baptist, is said 
to be too much in the Gothic 
style. The heads of S. Gregorio, 
S. Ambrogio, S. Augustine, S. 
Domenico, S. Bonaventura, and 
S. Jerome, are deemed particu¬ 
larly fine. Raphael has repre¬ 
sented the four first as Fathers of 
the Church, seated on each side of 
an altar, upon which the Host is 
exposed. The place of assembly 
represents the foundations of a 
church, with part of the super¬ 
structure begun. The fourth pic¬ 
ture in this room was coloured by 
Raphael; and represents Par¬ 
nassus. Homer is pictured stand¬ 
ing at the summit of the moun¬ 
tain, as an Improvvisatore, whom 
Apollo accompanies on the violin ; 
Dante is placed at the right hand 
of Homer, and Virgil at the left: 
the Muses surround Apollo , and 
the lower regions of the moun¬ 
tain contain groups of celebrated 
Greek, Latin, and Italian poets. 
Sappho sits in the fore-ground, 
holding a scroll with one hand, 
and a lyre with the other ; and 
apparently listening to Laura, 


Ch. VIII.] 

who stands with Petrarea behind 
a tree. On the opposite side of 
the mountain, and next to one 
of the Muses, whose back is 
toward the spectator, stands Ti¬ 
bullus ; and next to him Boccac¬ 
cio : lower down, with a medal¬ 
lion round his neck, is Ovid ; and 
immediately behind him, Sanna- 
zaro ; while lower still stands Ho¬ 
race, in an attitude of admiration, 
listening to Pindar, who, like 
Sappho, is seated. Raphael has 
placed himself in the group with 
Homer and Virgil. In the fourth 
room is a painting whichrepresents 
the victory gained by Leo iv. 
over the Saracens at Ostia: it is 
finely executed. In this room, 
likewise, is one of Raphael’s most 
celebrated works, finished by him¬ 
self, and representing the Fire in 
Borgo S. Spirito, near the Vati¬ 
can ; which happened during the 
Pontificate of Leo iv. The tu¬ 
mult and high wind, raised by the 
fire, are wonderfully expressed ; 
and the young man carrying his 
father, the figure sliding down a 
wall, and the woman carrying 
water on her head, are particularly 
admired. In the fore-ground is 
another woman, quite frantic, 
raising her hands toward Leo iv., 
who appears in a tribune ; below 
which is a fine group of people in¬ 
voking* his assistance. The third 
picture in this room represents the 
coronation of Charlemagne, by 
Leo hi. The composition is said 
to be confused ; but the young 
man in armour in the foreground 
is much admired. The fourth 
picture represents Leom., swear¬ 
ing, before Charlemagne, upon 
the Gospels, that he was not 
guilty of the crimes laid to his 
charge by the party who wished to 
depose him, The composition of 


J79 

this picture is admired • as are 
several of the heads. 

The surbases of these rooms are 
finely painted in chiaroscuro, by 
Polidoro di Caravaggio, and re¬ 
touched by Carlo Maratta. 

The Loggia, or open Gallery, 
above the Stanze di Raffaello, 
leads to an Apartment containing 
some o f the most celebrated easel- 
paintings extant. 

First room. Fortune, by Gui¬ 
do!—the three theological Virtues, 
by Raphael—religious Mysteries, 
by ditto—the Madonna, the Sa¬ 
viour, and S. Catherine, by Garo- 
falo—Saints, by Perugino—and 
two pictures, by Beato da Fiesole, 
relative to the life of S. Nicolo di 
Bari. 

Second room. The Transfigu¬ 
ration, by Raphael!! !—the Ma¬ 
donna and Saints, by Titian!!— 
and the Communion of S. Girola¬ 
mo, by Domenichino !! 

Third room. A Pieta, by M. 
A. Caravaggio !!—S. Helena, by 
Paolo Veronese—the Resurrection 
of our Saviour, by Perugino—the 
Madonna with four Saints, by 
ditto !—and the Assumption of the 
Madonna, designed by Raphael, 
and painted by Giulio Romano, 
and Francesco Penni! 

Fourth room. The Madonna, 
and two Saints, by Guido—the 
Nativity of the Madonna, by Al- 
bano—S. Gregorio, by Andrea 
Sacchi—S. Romualdo’s Vision, by 
ditto!!—and the crucifixion of S. 
Peter, by Guido! 

Fifth room. The Martyrdom of 
S. Erasmus, by Niccolo Poussin— 
the Annunciation, by Baroccio— 
the Incredulity of S. Thomas, by 
Guercino !—a Pieta , by Andrea 
Mantegna—S. Michelina, by Ba¬ 
roccio !—and the Martyrdom of 
two Saints, by Valentin. 

N 2 


ROME. 


180 


ROME. 


Sixth room. The Coronation 
of the Madonna, by Raphael!—the 
Madonna di Foligno, by ditto !!! 
—and the Magdalene, by Guer- 
cino! 

These rooms are open to the 
public every Sunday and Thursday 
morning, from twelve o’clock till 
four. 

Museo- Ch iaramonti. Appar - 
tamento-Borgia. These rooms, 
four in number, contain Frag- 
m ents of Statues and Bassi-rilievi; 
fine Capitals of pillars, marble co¬ 
lumns—a Statue of iEsculapius— 
a well-preserved ancient Fresco, 
found on the Esquiline Hill near 
the Gardens of Mecsenas, and 
commonly called, The Aldobran- 
dini Marriage ; is is supposed to 
represent the union of Thetis with 
Peleus !—six other very inferior 
Frescos, said to be ancient—an 
ancient Car, found near the Circus 
of Caracalla, and supposed to have 
consisted of wood sheathed with 
bronze—twelve Etruscan Sarco¬ 
phagi!— terra-cotta Lamps, §c. 

One of these rooms is adorned 
with a beautiful ceiling, by Gio¬ 
vanni da Udine, and Pierino del 
Vaga ; it represents the Planets, 
and the Signs of the Zodiac. 

Galleria - Lapidaria y. This 
Gallery contains a very large and 
valuable collection of ancient In¬ 
scriptions ; several of which were 
found in the Catacombs: it like¬ 
wise contains cinerary Urns, and 
other sepulchral monuments ; to- 

(//) Whenever I was permitted to sec the 
Vatican Museum by torch-light, I had four 
torches (each containing four wicks) placed 
within a reflector, fastened to a long pole : 
and the light, thus arranged, was most judi¬ 
ciously thrown on all the finest statues : so 
as to display and magnify their beauties, 
while their imperfections were left in sha¬ 
dow : Laocoon, thus viewed, appeared fine 
beyond conception ; because his figure only 
was exhibited, without the vest of the 
group. 


[Ch.VIII. 

gether with an immense Vase, si ¬ 
milar to the Receptacles for the 
ashes of victims offered to the 
gods, and ornamented with lions 
devouring weaker animals, one of 
the ancient emblems of death. 

The second division of the 
Gallery contains, on the right 
side, a Sarcophagus adorned with 
a recumbent female Figure, sur¬ 
rounded by little Bacchanalians ; 
and three demi-figures in alto- 
rilievo below; supposed to repre¬ 
sent a father, mother, and son: it 
was found near the Via-Flaminia 
—the statue of Venus between 
two Muses—bust of a female Faun 
—Herma of Plato—statue of 
Mercury! between Minerva and 
Ceres—statue of a Muse, seated— 
small statue of Diana—fragment, 
supposed to have represented ei¬ 
ther Minerva, or Victory—colos¬ 
sal bust of Rome—statue of Brit- 
tanicus—ditto of Demosthenes, 
or Lysias, seated—'Statue of Apollo 
—ditto of Jupiter Serapis, very 
small—statue of Hercules—bust 
of Augustus when a youth ; found 
at Ostia!—statue of Marcellus 
seated! between two fragments— 
statue of Mercury—small statues, 
representing a wild Boar, Mi¬ 
thras, andaSwan!—demi-colossal 
statue of Tiberius seated! well 
preserved, and found at Piperno, 
the ancient Privernum 2 —Group of 
Silenus and a Tiger between two 
half-length statues—bust, sup¬ 
posed to represent Pompey !— 

(z) The fourteen cities of Asia Minor, 
thrown down either by the earthquake 
which happened at our Saviour’s cruci¬ 
fixion, or, (according to some records,) in 
the year 17, and which cities the Emperor 
assisted the inhabitants to rebuild, erected 
a statue to him in consequence : on the same 
occasion there were two medalsstamped of 
Tiberius ; in both of which he is represented 
sitting, with a patera in one hand, and a 
spear in the other; in short, precisely in the 
posture of this statue found at Piperno. 


181 


Ch. VIII.] ROME. 


bust, called the Father of Trajan 
—bust of Augustus when young ! 
—statues of Ceres, Venus, and 
Mercury—bust of Neptune, found 
at Ostia—statues of Ceres, Mi¬ 
nerva, and Hygeia—and a colos¬ 
sal recumbent statue of Hercules, 
found at Tivoli, in Adrian’s 
Villa. 

The left side of this division of 
the Gallery contains a Bust, in 
terra-cotta —statues of iEscula- 
pius—Venus rising from the hath, 
and a Vestal—colossal statue of 
Alexander—statue of an Empe¬ 
ror, with the globe in his hand— 
colossal bust of Trajan—ditto of 
Isis, found in the Garden of the 
Quirinal Palace—statue of Atro- 
pos, found in Adrian’s Villa at 
Tivoli—statue of an Emperor 
with Victory in his hand—demi- 
tigure of a Dacian Warrior— 
small statue of Diana-Luna—sta¬ 
tue of Augustus—colossal head of 
a River-God—statue of Marcus 
Aurelius, placed on a Sarcophagus 
—statues of a triform Diana— 
Septimius Severus—a Faun— 
Apollo—and Paris—and a Sarco¬ 
phagus, adorned with a recumbent 
female figure, surrounded by 
Genii, who are playing with 
Tortoises, and other emblems of 
death. 

Hall of the Nile , just beyond 
the entrance to the second divi¬ 
sion of the Gallery. This new 
and splendid apartment is paved 
with fine marbles, and well-re¬ 
stored ancient mosaics ; and like¬ 
wise embellished with a beautiful 
modern Frieze, copied from an- 
tique bassi-rilievi too much in¬ 
jured for use. The centre of 
the apartment exhibits a magnifi¬ 
cent ancient Vase of bronze—the 
celebrated group of the Nile !!— 
and a group of the Graces, front 
the Ruspoli gallery) they are 


supposed to be Grecian sculpture j 
but the head of the middle figure 
is modern. Among the sculpture 
on the right side of this Hall, are 
statues of Apollino !—Silenus 
nursing the Infant Bacchus! !— 
Augustus’s Physician, (probably 
Antonius Musa,) in the character 
of iEsculapius ! —Minerva—Ga- 
nymedes, found at Ostia—the 
piping Faun!—an Amazon, pro¬ 
bably copied from the famous 
Amazon of Ctesilaus!—and a Ca- 
nephora—bust of Trajan ; excel¬ 
lent both with respect to likeness 
and execution !!—statue supposed 
to represent Diana in an attitude 
expressive of pity ; the hands and 
arms are restored—statue called 
Euripides. On the left side of 
this Hall are, the statue of a 
Priestess—ditto of Juno !—a 
demi-colossal statue of Antinous 
in the character of Vertumnus; 
it was found at Ostia ; but the 
head is modern !—statue of Diana 
—a demi-colossal statue of For¬ 
tune, found at Ostia !—bust of 
Sallust, the Historian !—statues 
of Pindar—Venus—the celebrated 
Minerva Medica, from the Gius- 
tiniani gallery ! !—a Faun—Lu¬ 
cius Verus holding Victory in his 
hand !—and a Discobolus—bust 
of a Dacian Chief—and the statue 
of Titus. 

At the end of the second divi¬ 
sion of the Galleria Lapidaria , 
and leading to the Masco Pio - 
Clementino, is a Staircase adorned 
with two columns of granite and 
some arabesques, by Daniello da 
Volterra : and to the left of the 
Staircase, are Apartments con¬ 
taining Statues, Busts, Egyptian 
Divinities recently discovered 
near the first Cataract of the Nile, 
and deemed some of the most an¬ 
cient specimens extant of Egyp« 
tian sculpture j a Mummy found 


1S2 


ROME. 


in the burial-place of the Egyptian 
princes, and wonderfully well pre¬ 
served, even to the linen which 
fills the coffin ; Mummies of Cats ; 
several other Egyptian Antiqui¬ 
ties, and several plaster Casts, from 
the British Museum, of Statues 
and Bassi-rilievi found at Athens. 

Museo-Pio-Clement ino. Square 
Vestibule. This apartment con¬ 
tains arabesques, by Daniello da 
Volterra—the celebrated Belve¬ 
dere-Torso, supposed to be the 
remains of a group representing 
Hercules and Hebe, after the dei¬ 
fication of the former ; and exe¬ 
cuted, according to the inscription 
it bears, by Apollonius, the son of 
Nestor of Athens a !!!! ■— The 
Sarcophagus of Lucius Cornelius 
Scipio Barbatus, with his bust, 
both found in the Tomb of the 
Scipio family, and made of stone, 
called peperino b —several Inscrip¬ 
tions relative to the Scipio family 
(all found in their tomb)—and, 
opposite to the sarcophagus, a 
recumbent statue. 

The second Apartment con¬ 
tains a Vase of Greek marble ! ! 
and four Fragments of Statues ; 
that of a Female seated, being 
much admired on account of the 
drapery. 

In the Balcony is an ancient 
Dial. 

The third Apartment contains, 
a Statue of Meleager ! !—and, 
fixed into the wall on the right, a 
Basso-rilievo representing the 
Apotheosis of Homer; and, on the 
left, two Bassi-rilievi, the one 
representing a Sea-port, the other 
an ancient Roman Galley with 
soldiers fighting. 

(a) This Torso is said to have been 
found in the Campo de’ Fiori ; and if so, 
it probably was one of the ornaments of 
Pompey’s Theatre. 

( b) It would seem extraordinary that the 
bust and sarcophagus of one of the greatest 


[Ch. VIII. 

Portico of the Court. To the 
right of the entrance door stands 
a Column of granite, and another 
of white marble adorned with fo¬ 
liage—an ancient Bath, of black 
basalt, found in Caracalla’s Baths 
—a Basso-rilievo fixed in the wall, 
representing Fauns and Griffons, 
under which stands a fine Sarco¬ 
phagus adorned with lions’ heads, 
fauns, and Bacchantes, and found 
under the new Sacristy of S. 
Peter’s—here, likewise, is the 
Sarcophagus of Sixtus Varius 
Marcellus. 

First Cabinet. Perseus, by 
Canova—Wrestlers, by ditto— 
and, in the niches on the sides of 
the arch, Statues of Mercury and 
Pallas. 

Continuation of the Portico. 
On the right, a Sarcophagus re¬ 
presenting Bacchus and Ariadne 
in the island of Naxos—another 
representing Prisoners imploring 
clemency from their conqueror—in 
the large niche, a Statue of Sal- 
lustia Barbia Orbiana, wife of 
Alexander Severus, in the cha¬ 
racter of Venus accompanied by 
Cupid—a Sarcophagus represent¬ 
ing Achilles slaying the Queen of 
the Amazons ; and, opposite to 
these, two beautiful Half Columns 
of rare marble. 

Second Cabinet. In the centre 
is the celebrated statue of Melea¬ 
ger, once called the Belvedere An- 
tinous!!! It was found on a spot, 
named Adrianello, near the church 
of S. Martino in Monte ; with one 
of the arms and the left hand want¬ 
ing.—On the right, fixed in the 
wall, is a Basso-rilievo of Achil¬ 
les killing the Queen of the Ama- 

men of the age in which he flourished 
should be made of so common a stone as 
peperino.if we did not collect from Pliny, 
that marble was not used at Rome for the 
purposes of sculpture, till about the fiftieth 
Olympiad. 


ROME. 


183 


Ch. vnr.] 

zons—opposite to this, another 
Basso-rilievo, representing Isiaie 
Ceremonies—and in the niches 
under the arch, Priapus and a 
young Hercules. 

Continuation of the Portico. 
On the right is a Sarcophagus re¬ 
presenting the Seasons—another, 
representing Nereides with the 
armour of Achilles—opposite to 
these, a magnificent Bath of red 
granite—and, fixed in the wall, a 
Basso-rilievo, supposed, according 
to some opinions, to represent one 
of the gates of the Temple of 
Janus; and, according to others, 
the gate of Eternity. On each 
side of the entrance to the Hall of 
Animals is a fine Column of verde 
antique, and the Statue of a Shep¬ 
herd’s Dog !—Further on are, a 
Sarcophagus, representing the bat¬ 
tle of the Athenians with the Ama¬ 
zons—another, representing Genii 
and Bacchanalian figures—and, 
opposite to this, a magnificent 
Bath of red granite. 

Third Cabinet. Here is the 
inimitable group of Laocoon, 
son of Priam and Hecuba, and 
high -priest of Apollo-Thyinbrseus. 
Laocoon endeavoured to prevent 
the reception of the wooden horse 
into Troy; in consequence of 
which, he and his two sons are 
supposed to have been killed by 
serpents!!!! This is the group 
mentioned by Pliny, as having 
been placed in the palace of Titus, 
and as being the joint work of 
Agesander, A pollodor us, and Athe- 
nodorus of Rhodes: it was found, 
during the Pontificate of Julius n., 
in the Baths of Titus c . The statue 
of Laocoon is universally deemed 
a chef-d'oeuvre of antiquity ; and 

(c) Some persons doubt whether the 
Laocoon of the Vatican be that mentioned 
by Pliny; because he says, the group was 
made with one single block of marble, and 
the Laocoon of the Vatican is composed of 


exhibits the picture of human na¬ 
ture struggling with grief, and 
trying to oppose the stroke of fate, 
with all the force of intellect. The 
left side of this wonderful statue, 
where the serpent’s teeth have pe¬ 
netrated, is that part of the body 
which seems to suffer most, from 
its pwoximity to the heart; and is 
considered as the finest production 
of the Grecian chisel now in exist¬ 
ence. The right arm was want¬ 
ing, and Buonaroti attempted to 
restore it in marble; but not pleas ¬ 
ing himself sufficiently to continue 
the work, it was afterward done in 
plaster by Bernini. The sons are 
said to be too much formed for 
children of nine or ten years of 
age. Winckeliriann supposes this 
group to have been executed in 
the time of Alexander the Great; 
but Pliny does not name the pe¬ 
riod when Agesander and his as¬ 
sociates so eminently distinguished 
themselves. This Cabinet also 
contains a Basso-rilievo, fixed in 
the wall, and representing the 
triumph of Bacchus after his vic¬ 
tory over the Indians ; and an¬ 
other, representing Bacchanalians. 
In the niches, on the sides of the 
arch, are Statues of Polymnia, and 
a Nymph, found near the Temple 
of Peace. 

Continuation of the Portico. 
On the right side, fixed into the 
wall, is a Basso-rilievo of Her¬ 
cules and Bacchus, with their re¬ 
spective attributes—and, below 
this, a Sarcophagus representing 
Genii carrying arms. Here, like¬ 
wise, is a Bath of gigantic mag¬ 
nitude. Fixed in the wall is an¬ 
other fine Basso-rilievo of Augus¬ 
tus sacrificing. In the large niche 

two pieces. Winckelmann, however, tells 
us, that, in all probability, the joint, easily 
discoverable now, was not to be perceived 
in Piiny’s time. 


1S4 


ROME. 


[Ch. VIII. 


is a Statue of Hygeia ; .and, fixed 
in the wall, a Basso-rilievo repre¬ 
senting Rome with a victorious 
Emperor—here, also, is another 
gigantic Bath of granite; and a 
Sarcophagus adorned with Tritons 
and Nereides. 

Fourth Cabinet. This room 
contains the Belvedere Apollo!!!! 
a statue equally celebrated with 
the group of Laocoon, and found 
at Antium, toward the close of the 
fifteenth century. The foot on 
which the figure stands was broken, 
and the pieces arc not well put 
together; the two hands are finely 
restored, especially the left. This 
statue is supposed to have been 
brought from Greece by Nero ; it 
is rather taller than the common 
height of man, appears to tread on 
air, and exhibits all the masculine 
beauty, grace, and dignity, with 
which we may suppose Adam to 
have been adorned before the fall. 
Two Bassi-rilievi are fixed in the 
walls: that on the right, represent¬ 
ing a Chase; that on the left, Pasi- 
phae with the bull; and in the 
niches, under the arch, are Statues 
of Pallas, and Venus triumphant. 

Continuation of the Portico. 
Here are two Sarcophagi: in the 
centre of the first is Ganymedes ; 
and in the centre of the other, 
Bacchus between a Faun and a 
Bacchante: opposite to these is a 
magnificent Bath of green basalt, 
found in Caracalla’s Baths—close 
to the door of entrance is a beau¬ 
tiful Column of porphyry; and 
opposite to the door, a Column 
of white marble, adorned with 
sculpture in the arabesque style. 

Hall o f Animals. This apart¬ 
ment is divided by a vestibule 
adorned with columns and pilas¬ 
ters of granite. The pavement 
near the entrance exhibits an an¬ 
cient Mosaic of a Wolf ; and, fur¬ 


ther on, are other ancient Mosaics, 
some of which were found at Pa¬ 
lestrina. Here is an unique, nu¬ 
merous, and most valuable collec¬ 
tion of animals, sculptured in 
every kind of precious marble, 
and several of them beautifully 
executed. 

Right Side o f the Hall. Some 
of the most striking things here 
are—a Dog on the back of a Stag 
—three Greyhounds—two Stag- 
hounds—Mithras stabbing the bull! 
—an Ibis—a Basso-rilievo repre¬ 
senting the triumph of Bacchus— 
a Table of verde antique—Europa 
•—a small Bull—the Lion killed 
by Hercules—Diomedes destroyed 
by Hercules—a Centaur and a 
Love—a Stag in flowered alabas¬ 
ter—and a Lobster. 

Gallery of Statues. The most 
remarkable pieces of scidpture on 
the right side of this apartment 
are—a Statue of Clodius Albinus 
—a half-length Figure of Love, 
supposed to have been executed 
by a Grecian artist!—a Statue of 
Paris with the apple of discord— 
Hercules—Minerva with the olive 
branch in her hand—a Statue, ap¬ 
parently Etruscan, of a Woman 
seated—Caligula—a Satyr and a 
Nymph—an Amazon!—a Faun 
just waking from sleep!—Juno!— 
a seated Figure bearing the name 
of Posidipos!!—a small Isis— 
Heads of Augustus, Julius Csesar, 
Balbinus, Marcus Aurelius, Titus, 
Ajax, Caraealla, Septimius Seve- 
rus, Antoninus Pius, Claudius 
Drusus, Nero, Socrates, and Ju¬ 
piter Serapis ; the last in black 
basalt. At the bottom of the 
apartment is a Statue of Jove 
seated, with the lightning in his 
hand!! (the Basso-rilievo on the 
pedestal represents Silenus and a 
baun!) — a Statue of Livia, and A 
Bust of Autinous, The other side 


Ch. VIII.] 

of the apartment contains a colos¬ 
sal Bust of Minerva—a Group 
representing- Cato and Portia—• 
four Busts of Plato—a Bust of 
Socrates—a sitting- statue bearing 
the name of Menander!!—Nero 
in the character of Apollo—a 
Statue of Septimius Severus—a 
sitting Statue of Dido—Neptune 
with his trident—Narcissus!—• 
Bacchus as a River-God—the 
Emperor Macrinus—iEsculapius 
and Hygeia—Venus—Seneca in 
a consular habit—a Female sleep¬ 
ing—one of the Danaides, with a 
vase in her hand!—a Faun lean¬ 
ing against a tree—and a Statue 
of Diana!! 

Cabinet of mosaic Masks. The 
ceiling of this elegant room was 
painted by Domenico di Angelis, 
and represents the marriage of 
Bacchus and Ariadne—Paris giv¬ 
ing the apple to Venus—Diana 
and Endymion—Venus and Ado¬ 
nis—and Paris and Minerva. 
Here are eight Columns and eight 
Pilasters of oriental alabaster—a 
beautiful ancient Frieze—a IJasso- 
rilievo , representing the apotheo¬ 
sis of Adrian—with others allusive 
to the labours of Hercules. Here, 
also, are Seats of porphyry—a 
Basin and a Chair of rosso antico 
—a beautiful antique mosaic Pave¬ 
ment, found in Adrian’s villa—a 
Statue of a Bacchante!!—Ditto of 
Venus coming out of the bath ! ! 

•—Ditto of one of Diana's Nymphs 
with a torch ! !—a Faun in rosso 
antico, found in Adrian’s villa!!! 
—Paris with the apple—Minerva 
—Ganymedes with the eagle!— 
and Adonis, or Antinous!!! 

Continuation of the Gallery of 
Statues. A Priestess—a female 
Figure, marked 727 !!!—a recum¬ 
bent demi-colossal Statue, called 
Cleopatra, but supposed to repre¬ 


1S5 

sent Ariadne!!!—Mercury, and 
Lucius Verus! 

Continuation of the Hall of 
Animals. Right side, going out 
of the Gallery—an equestrian Sta¬ 
tue of Commodus—Hercules—an 
Eagle—Goats with a Bacchus— 
Two Tigers—two Lions, one of 
which holds in his claws the head 
of a bull—two Jiassi-rilievi fixed 
in the wall, the one represents a 
cow suckling a calf, the other two 
wild Boars driven by a Love—a 
Sphinx of flowered alabaster—the 
head of an Ass—three small 
Horses—two Cows—a Sow with 
her Pigs—a wild Boar—Hercules 
killing Gerion—a Cow, in grey 
marble—a Statue of Meleager—a 
Horse—Hercules and Cerberus— 
a Stork with a serpent in its mouth 
—several Heads of horses, oxen, 
and mules—a group of a marine 
Monster and a Nymph—a Vase— 
two Goats—the Head of a Cow— 
a Lion devouring a Horse—and a 
Table of verde antique. 

Hall of the Muses. This apart¬ 
ment is adorned with sixteen Co¬ 
lumns of Carrara marble, whose 
Capitals were taken from Adrian's 
Villa. On the right is a Statue 
of Silenus, and another of Bacchus 
in female attire. Here likewise 
are Statues of the Muses, found 
at Tivoli, in the Villa of Cassius 
—Apollo in his theatrical habit— 
Hermse of Sophocles—Epicurus 
—Hippocrates — iEsehines— De¬ 
mosthenes—Antisthenes—Aspa- 
sia—and Pericles—a Statue of 
Sappho !—a Herma of Bias—a 
Statue of Lycurgus, or Lysias— 
a Herma of Periander—a Bust of 
Alcibiades—Hermse of Socrates— 
Zeno—Euripides—and Aratus. 
The Pavement exhibits a Mosaic 
(found at Lorium,) representing 
comic and tragic Actors— and ano- 


ROME. 


183 


ROME. 


ther Mosaic, in the arabesque style, 
found near S. Maria Maggiore. 
The ceiling was painted by the 
Caw Conca, and represents Apollo 
a ad Marsyas—the seven sages of 
Greece—Homer singing to Mi¬ 
nerva—Apollo and some of the 
Muses, with Homer, Virgil, Ari¬ 
osto, and Tasso, in the angles. 
Here likewise are Bassi-rilievi re¬ 
presenting Pluto and Proserpine 
—the combat of the Lapithte with 
the Centaurs, and the birth of 
Bacchus. 

The entrance to the large cir¬ 
cular hall contains, on the arch of 
the door to the right, a medallion 
of Juno—in the niche a Statue of 
Pallas—and, below, a medallion 
with a festoon and a Medusa—in 
the opposite niche a Statue of 
Mnemosyne—and below, a Basso- 
rilievo of three poets. 

Circular Ball. The Pavement 
of this apartment is an ancient 
Mosaic (found at Otricoli) repre¬ 
senting Medusa’s head, and the 
battle of the Lapithse with the 
Centaurs, encircled by another 
ancient Mosaic, representing ma¬ 
rine Monsters, and found in the 
environs of Scrofano—a magnifi¬ 
cent porphyry Basin, forty-one 
feet in circumference, adorns the 
centre of this apartment, which is 
seventy feet in diameter, and con¬ 
tains a colossal Bust of Jupiter !! 
—ditto of Faustina the elder!— 
ditto of Adrian (formerly in his 
Mausoleum)—ditto of Antinous— 
a Henna representing the Ocean 
—a Bust of Jupiter Serapis—ditto 
of the Emperor Claudius—ditto of 
Plotina—ditto of Julia Pia—ditto 
of Pertinax!—two Hermse (one 
on each side of the entrance door) 

( d ) Juno was worshipped at Lanuvinm 
(where this statue was found) under the 
title of Sospita, and represented as clothed 


[Ch. VIII. 

found in Adrian’s Villa, and re¬ 
presenting Bacchantes ! colossal 
Statues of Coinmodus in the cha¬ 
racter of Hercules—Augustus in a 
sacrificial habit—Ceres, or Mel¬ 
pomene restored as Ceres!!!— 
Antoninus Pius—Nerva!!—Juno, 
as queen of heaven !!!—the same 
heathen divinity as the goddess of 
health, with the dart, shield d , fyc. ; 
and a Group representing Bac¬ 
chus, a Tiger and a Satyr. The 
busts are placed on columns of 
porphyry, and other rare marbles. 

Vestibule in the form of a 
Greek cross. The door of this 
apartment is magnificently orna¬ 
mented with two Egyptian Idols 
of red granite, under the form of 
Caryatides, taken from Adrian’s 
Villa, and bearing the likeness of 
Antinous—two vases of red gra¬ 
nite, and a fine antique Basso - 
rilievo, representing a combat be¬ 
tween gladiators and wild beasts. 
The Pavement is adorned with an 
ancient Mosaic, representing ara¬ 
besques, and a head of Minerva 
found at Tusculum; and the 
apartment also contains a half- 
draped Statue of Augustus ; and, 
fixed into the wall, a Basso-rilievo 
of a Griffon—an Egyptian Idol of 
nero antico, found at Tivoli, and 
placed upon a bracket ornamented 
with two swans—a Statue on a 
pedestal of Lucius Verus, when 
young, found at Otricoli—and 
near the window a large sepulchral 
Monument of porphyry, in which 
the remains of S. Costanza were 
deposited, and which was taken 
from the church that bears her 
name—a Statue of aMuse seated, 
and holding a scroll, supposed to 
have once adorned the theatre at 

in a goat’s skin, and armed with a spear and 
shield, her feet being protected by san¬ 
dals. 


ROME. 


187 


Ch. VIII.] 

Otricoli—another Egyptian Tdol 
of nero antico, found at Tivoli, 
and placed on a bracket—below 
this, a Sphinx, in red granite—a 
Statue of Venus on a pedestal— 
and, fixed into the wall above, a 
Basso-rilievo representing three 
of the Muses. Before the stairs 
two large Sphinxes of granite— 
and, fixed into the wall near the 
arch, supported by columns of gra¬ 
nite, a Basso-rilievo representing 
children and lions’ heads—on the 
other side, a Basso-rilievo, with 
Bacchanalian figures—and, below 
this, another Sphinx—in the niche, 
a Statue of Erato—and, fixed to 
the wall, another Basso-rilievo 
representing three of the Muses— 
another Egyptian Idol of nero an¬ 
tico, found at Tivoli—and, below 
it, a Sphinx—a Statue, placed on 
a pedestal, of a Muse seated ; and 
near this, another Statue of a fe¬ 
male veiled—above, fixed in the 
wall, a Figure of Victory, which 
once adorned the Baths of S. He¬ 
lena—and, opposite to this, ano¬ 
ther Figure of Victory—here like¬ 
wise is the sepulchral Monument 
of S. Helena, found at Tor Pig- 
nattara—it contained her remains, 
and is of porphyry—near it is a 
Statue undraped, and another in 
the toga, both found at Otricoli— 
on a bracket, an Egyptian Idol, 
found at Tivoli—and, on a pede¬ 
stal, a Statue found at Otricoli of 
a youth veiled, holding a patera. 
The bottom of the staircase is a- 
dorned with a recumbent Statue 
of the Tigris in white marble e ; 
and another of the Nile, in grey 
marble. The staircase, which is 
magnificent, leads to a rotunda 
called, 

The Apartment of the Car. 
In the centre of this rotunda is an 


ancient and elegantly sculptured 
Car of marble, with two horses, 
the one ancient, the other modern. 
On the right of the entrance door 
is a Statue of Perseus; and, in 
the niche, a Statue with a long 
beard, called Sardanapalus ; but 
more probably Bacchus. The 
apartment likewise contains a Sta¬ 
tue which decidedly represents 
Bacchus!—a Warrior (with one 
foot on his helmet) called Alcibi- 
ades—a Statue veiled, and in the 
act of sacrificing—ditto of Apollo 
with the lyre—a Discobolus—sta¬ 
tue called Ajax, or Phocion!! pro¬ 
bably the former, if we may judge 
by the cloak; for Phocian always 
appeared barefooted, and without 
a cloak, both in his rural retreat, 
and at the head of the Athenian 
armies—another Discobolus, imi¬ 
tated from that of Myron—an Au¬ 
riga of the Circus—a Grecian Phi¬ 
losopher, holding a scroll—an 
Apollo with the Lizard—and four 
small, but beautiful, Sarcophagi. 

Gallery of Candelabra, Sfc. 
The vestibule of this ♦ immense 
Gallery, contains a considerable 
number of Egyptian Antiquities. 

First Division. A Faun, in 
green basalt!—Diana of Ephesus 
—small statues of Children—two 
sepulchral Urns standing on Pe¬ 
destals adorned with Bassi-rilievi. 

Second Division. Two Tri¬ 
pods—two fine Vases—small sta¬ 
tues of Children—Diana- Lucifera 
—Ganymedes and the Eagle— 
and a statue of a Female, imme¬ 
diately opposite! 

Third Division. A Sarco¬ 
phagus adorned with Bassi-rilievi , 
representing Diana killing the 
children of Niobe—a singular 
Candelabrum, representing lilies! 
—the Pescatore !—Diana and a 


(e) The head of the Tigris was restored by Buonaroti. 


188 


ROME. 


greyhound—small statues of chil¬ 
dren. 

Fourth Division. A female 
Figure draped—a Youth draped— 
a Priestess with the patera— 
Ceres. 

Fifth Division. A Sarcopha¬ 
gus, with a Gladiator on the top—■ 
another, with a female Figure, re¬ 
sembling Sappho, on the top. 

Sixth Division. Two of the 
largest and most beautiful Cande¬ 
labra in Rome!!—other Cande¬ 
labra!—cinerary Urns, S>-c { . 

Seventh Division. Cinerary 
and other Urns of rare marble— 
four Candelabra! 

Eighth Division. Two Cande¬ 
labra, one being particularly beau¬ 
tiful!—cinerary and other Urns 
of rare marble— two handsome 
basins. 

Geographical Gallery. This 
apartment is adorned with ancient 
Maps of the Papal territories, 
Hermae of distinguished Charac¬ 
ters ; and, on the ceiling, Frescos 
by the scholars of Raphael. 

Beyond the Geographical Gal¬ 
lery, (on the right,) is a Room 
hung with tapestry, and contain¬ 
ing, on its ceiling, the descent of 
the Holy Ghost, finely painted by 
Guido. 

The Stanze di Rafaello, and 
Vatican Museum, are open to the 
Public every Sunday and Thurs¬ 
day morning, from twelve o’clock 
till four. 

(f) The Candelabra of Mars, Mercury, 
Minerva, and Isis, are deemed the most 
valuable in the Vatican-Museum ; both 
with respect to their form, and the elegance 
of their ornaments. 

(g) The Custodc who shows the Manu¬ 
scripts, and attends Strangers round the 
apartment, expects from two to five pauls, 
according to the size of the party. 

The Librarian here, has recently disco¬ 
vered, that some of the most valuable an¬ 
cient manuscripts have been used, in latter 
dajfe, for other writings j merely to save 
parchment i the auclsnt characters, how. 


[Ch. VIII. 

Libraria Vaticano. The usual 
entrance to this magnificent apart¬ 
ment is from the Museo-Chiara- 
monti: the rooms are open to the 
public on the same days and at 
the same hours, with the rest of 
the Vatican-Museum; but the 
books can only be seen from nine 
till twelve in the forenoon s. 

The Vatican Library was com¬ 
menced, during the fifth century, 
by Pope S. Hilarius; and the 
princely apartment which now 
contains forty thousand manu¬ 
scripts, and a choice collection of 
books printed in the fifteenth cen¬ 
tury, was erected by Sixtus v., 
after the designs of Domenico 
Fontana. 

The Vestibule contains Chinese 
works, relative to anatomy, geo¬ 
graphy, and astronomy; together 
with two Columns, bearing ancient 
inscriptions. The ante-room is 
adorned with a ceiling painted by 
Marco di Firenze, and Paul Brill. 

The great Hall of the Library 
is one hundred and ninety-eight 
feet long, by forty-nine broad : 
its ceiling was painted by Zuccari. 
Round this hall are presses that 
enclose the manuscripts; any of 
which, on being asked for, are 
immediately shown. Here are— 
a fine fluted Column of transpa¬ 
rent alabaster—a Sarcophagus of 
white marble, with a winding- 
sheet of Asbestos, nine Roman 
palms in length and seven broad— 

ever, are frequently visible below those of 
modern date ; on ascertaining which, he 
lias already been able to rescue, from ob¬ 
livion, some missing books of Cicero’s 
Republica; the Correspondence between 
Fronto and Marcus Aurelius, before and 
after the latter became Emperor; a Frag¬ 
ment of an Oration by Q. Aurelius Sym- 
machus, with the Supplement of two other 
Orations ; and the Supplement to the Gothic 
Ulpian Commentaries. A sight of these 
manuscripts may be obtained by any Fo¬ 
reigner who 1 b acquainted with thv Li* 
torarlan. 


189 


ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] 

Etruscan and Grecian Vases— 
cinerary Urns—and two superb 
Tables of granite, supported by 
bronze figures finely executed. 
Among the rare manuscripts are 
several Hebrew, Syriac, Arabic, 
and Armenian Bibles—a Greek 
Bible of the sixth century in ca¬ 
pital letters, written according to 
the Version of the Septuagint; 
and from which all the subsequent 
copies have been taken—a very 
large Hebrew Bible, presented to 
the library by the Dukes of Ur- 
bino, and for which the Venetian 
Jews offered its weight in gold—a 
Greek Manuscript, containing the 
Acts of the Apostles in letters of 
gold: (this was given to Innocent 
viii., by Charlotte, Queen of Cy¬ 
prus,)—a Missal, written in 1118 
—another adorned with Minia¬ 
tures by Giulio Clovio, the scholar 
of Giulio Romano, and the finest 
miniature painter of his time—a 
large Breviary, adorned with fine 
Miniatures, and presented to the 
library by Matthias Corvinus, 
King of Hungary—the Annals of 
Baronius, written with his own 
hand in twelve volumes—several 
volumes of ecclesiastical History, 
by the learned Onofrio Panvinio, 
Augustine—a Martyrology, curi¬ 
ous on account of its antiquity, 
and its Miniatures—Manuscripts 
relative to S. Carlo Borromeo—a 
manuscript Pliny, with beautiful 
Miniatures of animals—a Virgil of 
the fifth century, written in ca¬ 
pital letters, and adorned with mi¬ 
niatures representing the Trojans 
and Latians in the dress of their 
own times 11 —a Terence equally 
ancient—another Terence, of the 

(A) These paintings are not good ; but 
they have been excellently engraved by 
Santi Bartoli; and may be purchased at 
the Calcografia Camerale. 

( i) It seems extraordinary that there 


ninth century, illuminated with 
ancient masks—a beautiful Tasso 
—a Dante adorned with exquisite 
Paintings, begun by the Floren¬ 
tine school, and finished by Giulio 
Clovio—a Treatise on the seven 
Sacraments, composed by Henry 
viii. of England—original Letters 
between that Prince and Anna 
Bullen—several Papers written by 
Luther—the Lives of Federico di 
Monte Feltre, and Francesco 
Maria della Povera, Dukes of Ur- 
bino, adorned with exquisite Mi¬ 
niatures by Giulio Clovio—several 
Manuscripts written on Egyptian 
papyrus—and the Gospels of S. 
Luke and S. John, written in the 
tenth century, and bound in ivory 1 . 
From the upper part of this Hall 
branch two Galleries, forming, 
altogether, a length of nearly half 
a mile. 

The Gallery on the right is 
supported by fine Columns of por¬ 
phyry ; two of which, with figures 
on the top, were taken from the 
Arch of Constantine. Here are 
modern Paintings—Presses filled 
with books—Etruscan and Gre¬ 
cian Vases—and, at the extremity 
of the Gallery, a Cabinet con¬ 
taining beautiful Cammei of Ju¬ 
piter, iEsculapius, $c .—Etruscan 
Antiquities, (among which is the 
recumbent figure of a Child!)— 
the finest Bust extant of Augus¬ 
tus !!—a Bust of Nero—ditto of 
Septimius Severus—an ancient 
silver Salver or Shield—Human 
Hair found in a sarcophagus— 
ancient Seals, Rings, fyc. 

The commencement of the Gal- 
lery on the left, contains very 
fine Etruscan and Grecian Vases 

are no ancient Rituals here, to show the 
alterations supposed to have taken place in 
Church-ceremonies since the time of the 
primitive Christians. 


190 


ROME. 


—Presses filled with books—a 
Statue of S. Hippolito k , found in 
the Cemetery of S. Lorenzo—and 
a statue of Aristides of Smyrna. 
The second division contains a 
Ceiling, by Pozzi, which repre¬ 
sents the Church and Religion— 
ancient lamps — Instruments of 
torture, and other antiques, re¬ 
lative to the primitive Christians 
—and an original Portrait of 
Charlemagne, in Stucco. Near 
the end of this Gallery is a Cabi¬ 
net superbly adorned with por¬ 
phyry and other precious marbles; 
hung round with specimens of the 
Egyptian Papyrus; and exhibit¬ 
ing, on its Ceiling, the chef- 
d'oeuvre of Mengs; who has re¬ 
presented, over the doors, Moses 
and S. Peter, beautifully painted, 
though less worthy of admiration 
than the four Genii, and the 
four Children, on the coves of the 
ceiling!! In the centre of this 
ceiling is History resting upon 
the wings of Time a tablet sup¬ 
posed to record the works of Cle¬ 
ment xiv.; while a Genius pre¬ 
sents scrolls of papyrus, by means 
of which the Pontilf’s fame may 
be transmitted to posterity. Ja¬ 
nus is introduced into the picture, 
as indicative of the present and 
the past: he appears to be dic¬ 
tating to History. This Cabinet 
also contains two Candelabra, 
given by Napoleon to Pius vn. 
Beyond the cabinet of Mengs are 
two Rooms in a direct line ; and 
two others on the right; one of 
which contains a celebrated Col¬ 
lection of Engravings; beautiful 
Etruscan and Grecian Vases, and 
a Ceiling painted by Guido ; the 
other contains magnificent Vases, 
and ancient Inscriptions fixed in 
the walls. Returning from the 


[Ch. VIII. 

cabinet of Mengs, you see, on the 
left, two rooms ; the first of which 
contains paintings, on the Ceiling, 
by Guido ; together with some 
fine Grecian Vases: the second 
contains Grecian Vases ; together 
with ancient Inscriptions fixed in 
the wall. 

Chiesa del 1\ P. Cappuccini, 
in Piazza Barberini. This Pi¬ 
azza is supposed to have made 
part of the ancient Circus of Flo¬ 
ra; where, according to Sueto¬ 
nius, elephants danced on ropes. 
The Chiesa dei Cappuccini is rich 
in paintings. The first picture 
on the right represents the Arch- 
Angel Michael; and is deemed 
Guido’s finest easel production !!! 
S. Paul receiving his sight, in the 
Chapel opposite to that which 
contains the Arch-Angel, is by 
Pietro da Cortona!! and over the 
door of the church is a cartoon, 
by Giotto, from which the mosaic, 
called The Navicella, and placed 
in the portico of S. Peter’s, was 
taken! 

Palazzo- Barberini . A fine 
Basso-rilievo at the foot of the 
stairs—a fine Alto-rilievo of a 
Lion (taken from Palestrina,) on 
the first landing place. 

Firstfloor. r l'he ceiling of the prin- 
cipai Hall of entrance was painted 
by Pietro da Cortona!! The sub¬ 
jects are allusive to Urban vm. 
The centre exhibits the Barberini 
arms carried to Heaven by the 
Virtues, in presence of Providence, 
who is surrounded by Time, Eter¬ 
nity, and the Fates. On one side 
is Minerva vanquishing the Ti¬ 
tans ; on another are Religion and 
Faith, with Voluptuousness be¬ 
neath on the left, and Silenus on 
the right. On the third side are 
figures of Justice and Abundance 


(k) This is the most ancient marble statue extant of a Christian; it was executed in 

the time of Alexander Severus, 


191 


ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] 

in the air; and, below them, Cha¬ 
rity on the right, and Hercules 
killing the Harpies on the left. 
On the fourth side is a figure 
which represents the Church, ac¬ 
companied by Prudence, sending 
Peace to shut the Temple of Ja¬ 
nus* chasing the Eumenides, and 
ordering Vulcan to forge arms for 
the defence of Rome. Another 
Hall of entrance contains statues 
of Comrnodus, Juno, Dido, and 
Tiberius ; together, with Sarco¬ 
phagi, found at Palestrina; 
and the statue of a Faun by Buo- 
naroti. 

The Apartments on the second 
floor contain, S. Matthew, by Gu- 
ercino—S. Luke, by ditto—S. 
Carlo Borommeo, by Pietro da 
Cortona—S. Girolamo, by Spag- 
noletto—the guitar Player, by M. 
A. Caravaggio—S. Andrea Cor- 
sini, by Guido—the death of Ger- 
manicus, by Niccolo Poussin!— 
a small Landscape by Claude, be¬ 
tween two small paintings, by 
Albano—Raphael’s Fornarina, by 
himself!—the portrait of a Lady, 
by Titian!—and a picture by Al¬ 
bert Durer. The following cele¬ 
brated paintings have recently 
been added to this collection. 
Adam and Eve driven from Pa¬ 
radise, by Domenichino—an An¬ 
gel announcing to the Shepherds 
the birth of the Messiah, by Ber¬ 
gamo—a large Landscape, by 
Claude—the Holy Family, by An¬ 
drea del Sarto—David with the 
head of Goliali, by Guercino—the 
Cenci, by Guido—the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by Raphael— 
and Leda, by Correggio 1 . 

C/iiesa di S, Maria della Vit- 
toria. The front of this edifice 
was built after the designs of Gio¬ 
vanni Battista Soria; and the in¬ 


terior part after those of Carlo Ma- 
derno: it stands on the site of the 
gardens of Sallust; and is deemed, 
in point of architecture, one of 
the most beautiful churches at 
Rome. The inside is adorned 
with pilasters of Sicilian jasper, a 
well painted ceiling, a handsome 
marble pavement, good altar- 
pieces, and fine sculpture. The 
paintings in the second Chapel, 
on the right, are by Domenichino! 
The last Chapel, in the cross-aisle* 
contains a group, in marble, of 
Joseph and an Angel, by Dome¬ 
nico Guido: the opposite Chapel, 
on the left, contains a group of 
S. Teresa and an Angel, by Ber¬ 
nini. Here, likewise, are two 
sarcophagi adorned with fine 
Busts, by Bernini; and an Alto- 
rilievo, in bronze, representing 
the last supper, by the same artist. 
The next Chapel is embellished 
with fine marbles ; and contains 
an altar-piece, by Guercino ; with 
a picture, on each side, by Guido. 

Fontana di Termine. This 
Fountain, which is opposite to the 
church of S. Maria della Vittoria, 
was erected by Fontana, at the 
command of Sixtus v. In the 
centre of the edifice is a Statue of 
Moses ; and on each side a Hasso- 
rilievo; the one representing 
Aaron conducting the Israelites 
to quench their thirst; the other 
Gideon encouraging them to pass 
the river Jordan, and directing 
his soldiers to lead the way. This 
fountain is likewise ornamented 
with four Lions, two of which are 
white porphyry, and two basalt ; 
the latter being Egyptian sculp¬ 
ture, and highly estimated. 

C/iiesa di S. Andrea a Monte - 
Cavallo. This beautiful little 
Church was built by Bernini, in 


(J) The Barberini-Palace is shewn from ten in the morning till two. 


192 


ROME. 


the form of an ancient temple; 
it is adorned with fine marbles ; 
and contains, in the first Chapel 
on the right, a picture of S. 
Francesco Saverio, by JBaciccio; 
by whom likewise are the paint¬ 
ings on each side. The Crucifixion 
of S. Andrew, over the high altar, 
is by Bourguignone; and the next 
Chapel, dedicated to S. Stanislas, 
is ornamented with a picture of 
that Saint, by Carlo Maratta; 
and a Sarcophagus of lapis lazuli. 
In the conventual edifice adjoining 
to this church is a Chapel, once 
the chamber of S. Stanislas, which 
contains his Statue, by Le Gros! 

Palazzo - Pontificio. This 
princely edifice is situated on the 
Quirinal hill; and supposed to 
stand on the ruins of the Baths of 
Constantine. It was begun by 
Paul hi., continued by Gregory 
xin., and finished by succeeding 
Pontiffs. The Court-yard, or open 
Quadrangle of the palace, is three 
hundred feet long, by one hundred 
and sixty-five wide ; three parts 
being surrounded with porticos. 
The large staircase on the right, 
leads to the public Chapel, which 
has been recently fitted up with 
great elegance by the present 
Pope. Contiguous to this chapel 
is a magnificent suite of apart¬ 
ments splendidly furnished in the 
French style, and enriched with a 
good collection of pictures ; among 
which are, in the first room, Saul 
and David, by Guercino!—S. 
Agnes, by Annibale Caracci—an 
Ecce Homo, by Domenichino—a 
sketch of the Transfiguration, by 
R aphael! The martyrdom of the 
Jesuits, by Bassano—the Madon¬ 
na and our Saviour, by Guido— 
S. Catherine, by Annibale Caracci 
—Ditto by the tav. d’Arpino—S. 
John, by Giulio Romano—the 
Madonna and our Saviour, by 


[Ch. VIII. 

Rubens—the same subject, by 
Baroccio—the Madonna, our Sa¬ 
viour, S. John, &}C., by Palma 
Vecchio. The small Chapel, ad¬ 
joining to this room, is beautifully 
painted, by Guido; the subject 
being the life of the Madonna, and 
the Annunciation, over the altar, 
is particularly admired. The se¬ 
cond room contains pictures of 
Animals by Petri, a living artist. 
The third room is adorned with a 
fine Ceiling. The fourth with a 
Frieze, by Thorwaldsen, repre¬ 
senting the triumph of Alexander, 
and a fine Ceiling. The fifth room 
contains an elegant Bed, and a 
fine Frieze, representing the tri¬ 
umph of Trajan, by Finetti. In 
the sixth room are copies of Ra¬ 
phael's Arabesques, and a fine 
Frieze: in the seventh room a 
beautiful Chimney-piece, and a 
Ceiling by Palagi. The ninth 
room contains a picture of S. Pe¬ 
ter, by Fra Bartolomeo!!—S. 
Paul by the same great artist!! 
—S. Girolamo, by Spagnoletto— 
S. Cecilia, by Vanni—S. George, 
by Pordenone—our Saviour dis¬ 
puting with the doctors, by M. A. 
Caravaggio!!—the adoration of 
the Magi, by G uercino—the mar¬ 
riage of S. Catharine, by Battoni 
—S. Cecilia, S. Agnes, fyc., by 
Caracioli — S. Sebastiano, by 
Paolo Veronese—the Ascension 
of our Saviour, by Vandyck—and 
a picture by Annibale Caracci, 
representing a Legend. 

These Apartments cannot be 
seen without an order from the 
Cardinal Secretary of State. 

Palazzo Rospigliosi. This 
edifice was erected on the ruins 
of Constantine’s Baths; and its 
Garden contains a Pavilion, the 
outside of which is adorned with 
four large Bassi-rilievi , found in 
Trajan’s Forum, and three small 


Ch. VIII.] ROME. 193 


ones, found in the Baths of Con¬ 
stantine. On the Ceiling- of the 
principal room of the Pavilion is 
the celebrated Aurora of Guido ; 
according- to many opinions the 
finest Fresco at Rome !!! Here 
likewise are two Loves, by the 
same artist; two Landscapes, by 
Paul Brill ; two Painting's, by 
Tempesta, both taken from Pe- 
trarca; the one represents the 
Triumph of Fame, and the other 
the Triumph of Love: two Co¬ 
lumns of rosso antico; a bronze 
Horse, and a statue of Minerva: 
the four last were found in Con¬ 
stantine’s Baths. 

Room on the right. Death of 
Sampson, by Lodovico Caracci— 
head of Guido, by himself—Gar¬ 
den of Eden, by Domenichino— 
and Sophonisba, after having swal¬ 
lowed poison, by Calabrese. 

Room on the left. The Tri¬ 
umph of David, by Domenichino ! 
—the Saviour, and the twelve 
Apostles, (each being a separate 
picture,) by Rubens—the Saviour 
bearing his Cross, by Daniello 
da Voiterra—Matrimony, by Gi¬ 
orgione—Andromeda, by Guido— 
a Love, by Niccolo Poussin—head 
of Ditto, by himself—the five 
Senses, by Carlo Cigniani!—and 
an Ecce Homo, by Guido. Busts 
of Adrian, Septimius Severus, 
Cicero, and Seneca, found in the 
Baths of Constantine; and the 
celebrated bust, in basalt, of Sci- 
pio Africanus, found, according to 
Fulvius Ursinus, at Liternum; 
and bearing, on the right side of 
the head, a mark which resembles 
a scar. This mark may be seen 
on the marble bust ot Scipio, in 
the Capitol ; and likewise on his 
bust in the Villa Albani. 

Fontana di Trevi. The water 
which supplies this beautiful F oun- 
tain was brought to Rome by 


Agrippa,for the use of his baths; and 
derives its name of Acqua Vergine 
from a young female Peasant, who 
discovered the source, and showed 
it to some famishing soldiers. It is 
deemed the best water at Rome. 
The decorations of this Fountain 
were designed by Niccolo Salvi, 
at the command of Clement xii. 
The Statues represent Ocean, Sa¬ 
lubrity, and Abundance ; and the 
Bassi-relievi over the two last, 
represent Agrippa and the Pea¬ 
sant-Girl. 

Chiesa di S. Maria delPopolo. 
This church, which stands on the 
site of a sepulchral Monument that, 
according to the best authorities, 
belonged to the Family of Domi- 
tian, contains, in the first and third 
Chapels, to the right, paintings 
by Pinturicchio: the intermediate 
Chapel contains an oil-painting, 
on the wall, by Carlo Maratta. 
The paintings in the tribuna are 
by Pinturicchio: and the Chapel 
to the right of the high altar con¬ 
tains a picture of the Assumption, 
by Annibale Caracci! The Chigi- 
CImpel was decorated according 
to the designs of Raphael; and 
contains a statue of Jonas, de¬ 
signed by him, and executed under 
his immediate orders, by Loren- 
zetto!! The statue of Elias, also, is 
supposed to have been designed by 
Raphael; the other statues were 
done by Bernini. Near this chapel 
is the singular Monument of the 
Princess Odescalehi Cliigi. 

Chiesa di 8. Carlo al Corso. 
This Church was begun according 
to the designs of Onorio and Mar¬ 
tino Lunghi, and finished by 
Pietro da Cortona; who erected 
the cupola. The picture which 
adorns the high altar is by Carlo 
Maratta, and represents the Apo¬ 
theosis of S. Carlo ! The Tribuna, 
the angles of the cupola, and the 

o 


194 


ROME. 


ceiling’ of the nave, were painted 
by Brandi. The Chapel in the 
cross, on the right, was designed 
by the Cav. Paolo Posi; and the 
picture in mosaic, with which it is 
adorned, is a copy of that painted 
by Carlo Maratta in the church of 
the Madonna del Popolo: the sta¬ 
tue of Judith is by Le Brun ; and 
that of David by Pietro Pacilli. 
The third Chapel on the right 
contains a picture of S. Barnaba, 
by Mola! 

Chiesa di S. Lorenzo in Ln- 
cina . The high altar of this 
Church is adorned with a cele¬ 
brated picture of the Saviour on 
the Cross, by Guido. 

Chiesa di S. Ignazio. This 
magnificent edifice was erected 
by Cardinal Lodovico Lodovisio, 
chiefly after the designs of Dome- 
nichino ; it is ornamented with 
fine antique columns of marble ; 
and contains two beautiful Cha¬ 
pels made after the designs of the 
celebrated Father Pozzi, a Jesuit. 
That on the right is adorned 
with an alto-rilievo, by Le Gros, 
representing S. Luigi Gonzaga, 
whose body is deposited here in a 
tomb incrusted with lapis lazuli. 
The other Chapel contains a 
basso-rilievo, by Filippo Valle, 
representing the Annunciation. 
Here, likewise, is the Monument 
of Gregory xv., by Le Gros ; 
and a Picture of S. Giuseppe 
dying, by Trevisani! The Ceil¬ 
ings of the nave and tribuna are 
painted by Pozzi ; and the former 
represents the Apotheosis of S. 
Ignatius ; from whose head issue 
rays, emblematical of his having 
enlightened the four quarters of 
the world. 

Chiesa de' S. S. Apostoli. This 
noble structure was erected by 
Constantine ; and afterward re¬ 
built by Fontana. The Portico 


[Ch. VIII. 

of the old edifice is still entire; 
and contains an antique basso- 
rilievo of an Eagle at one end ; 
and, at the other, a basso-rilievo 
of Friendship deploring the death 
of Volpato, by Canova. The 
church is divided into three aisles 
by pilasters of the Corinthian or¬ 
der. The Ceiling of the nave 
was painted by Baciccio ; and re¬ 
presents the Triumph of S. Fran¬ 
cesco. The Ceiling of the tri¬ 
buna was painted by Odazzi, and 
represents the Fall of the Angels!! 
The high altar-piece is by Dome- 
nichino Muratori. The first Cha¬ 
pel, on the right, near the great 
door, and the Chapel in the cross, 
on the right, are particularly rich 
in marbles: and, adjoining to the 
latter, is another Chapel, which 
contains eight beautiful antique 
fluted Columns of white marble. 
The second Chapel on the left 
near the great door, is adorned 
with particularly fine columns of 
verde antique and other marbles : 
and over the door of the Sacristy 
is the Monument of Clement xiv., 
by Canova ; who has placed the 
statue of the Pope between two 
female figures, namely, Temper¬ 
ance and Meekness ! 

Chiesa di S. Maria di Lo- 
retto. This little Church, which 
is deemed a fine piece of archi¬ 
tecture, was built by Sangallo; 
and has a double cupola, like S. 
Peter’s: it contains a celebrated 
statue of S. Susanna, by Fia- 
mingo. 

Chiesa di Gesii. This magni¬ 
ficent edifice was erected by Car¬ 
dinal Alessandro Farnese, after 
the plan of Vignola ; and finish¬ 
ed by Giacomo della Porta. The 
Frescos on the ceiling of the 
nave, tribuna, and cupola, are by 
Baciccio; who has represented S. 
Francesco Savcrio ascending to 


195 


HOME. 


Ch. VIII.] 

Heaven!! The angles of the cu¬ 
pola are particularly beautiful. 
The Chapel in the cross, on the 
rig-lit, was made after the desig-ns 
of Pietro da Cortona; and con¬ 
tains a picture by Carlo Maratta, 
representing the death of S. Fran¬ 
cesco Saverio. The high altar 
is decorated with fine columns of 
giallo antico, and a picture of the 
Circumcision, by Muziano! The 
Chapel of S. Ignatius, executed 
after the designs of Father Pozzi, 
is peculiarly magnificent; the co¬ 
lumns which adorn the altar being 
lapis lazuli fluted with bronze 
gilt ; and the globe held by the 
Deity the largest piece of lapis 
lazuli ever seen. Above the al¬ 
tar, in a niche incrusted with 
lapis lazuli, is a demi-colossal 
Statue of S. Ignatius accompa¬ 
nied by three Angels, and done 
after the designs of Le Gros. The 
remains of the Saint repose un¬ 
der the altar, in a tomb of bronze 
gilt, adorned with bassi-rilievi 
and precious stones: and on one 
side of the altar is a celebrated 
group of Religion vanquishing 
Heresy, by Le Gros ; and on the 
other side a group, by Teudonc, 
which represents idolatrous na¬ 
tions embracing Christianity. The 
Ceiling was painted by Baciccio. 
This church contains one of the 
best organs at Roine m . 

Chiesa di S. Andrea della 
Valle. This noble edifice stands, 
according to some ' opinions, on 
the site of the Curia of Pompey, 
where Caesar was assassinated: 
its Cupola, by Lanfranco, is deem¬ 
ed a master-piece!! the four 
Evangelists in the angles are by 
Domenichino; and the S. John 
is called his chef d'osuvre in this 

( m ) There frequently is fine music here; 
and especially on the Festival of Corpus 
Domini, and for some days after. 


description of painting. The 
Ceiling of the tribuna was done 
by the same great artist, and re¬ 
presents the life of S. Andrew: 
the three large frescos on the 
walls of the tribuna are by Cala¬ 
brese, and represent the martyr¬ 
dom of S. Andrew. The Strozzi- 
Cliapel was designed by Buona- 
roti; and the Barberini-Chapel 
is rich in marbles and sculpture, 
and in paintings, by Passignani. 

Chiesa della Trinita de Pe- 
lejrrini. This Church contains a 
High Altar-Piece by Guido, re¬ 
presenting the Trinity. Our Sa¬ 
viour is on the cross accompanied 
by two kneeling Angels; his 
figure and countenance are parti¬ 
cularly fine ; over the cross hovers 
a dove ; and higher up, is God the 
Father!!! The representation of 
the Deity in the lantern is like¬ 
wise by Guido. 

Chiesa di S. Carlo a Cate - 
nari. This is a noble edifice, 
adorned with one of the most 
beautiful cupolas in Rome. The 
Ceiling of the tribuna was painted 
by Lanfranco; and the cardinal 
Virtues, in the angles of the cu¬ 
pola, by Domenichino: they are 
strikingly fine ; particularly the 
figure of Fortitude!!! The An¬ 
nunciation in the first Chapel, on 
the right of the entrance-door, is 
by Lanfranco • and the death of 
S. Anna, in one of the Chapels 
of the cross, by Andrea Sacchi! 
The high altar is decorated with 
four columns of porphyry, and a 
picture by Pietro da Cortona. 
The Ceiling of the Sacristy was 
painted by Lanfranco, and repre¬ 
sents the Assumption ; and an ad¬ 
joining room contains a portrait 
of S. Carlo, by Guido n ! 

(«) The Church of S. Carlo a Catenari 
contains a Monument to the memory of 
Lorenzo Sperandi ; with an epitaph, which 

o 2 


196 


ROME. 


Chiesa di S. Giovanni de' Fio- 
rentini. This fine Church, erect¬ 
ed according to the designs of 
Giacomo della Porta, contains a 
Picture of the martyrdom of 
Saints Cosimo and Damiano, by 
Salvator Rosa! a Chapel painted 
by Lanfranco! a Picture of S. Gi¬ 
rolamo by Cigoli; and the Monu¬ 
ment of one of the Corsini- 
family, by Algardi. 

Chiesa di S. Maria in Valli- 
cella, commonly called Chiesa 
Nuova. This splendid Church 
was built by S. Filippo Neri, 
after the designs of Martino 
Lunghi and Pietro da Cortona; 
the latter of whom painted the 
Ceiling of the Nave, the Cupola, 
and the upper part of the Tri¬ 
buna ; which last represents the 
Assumption. The Altar-Piece of 
the first | Chapel on the right 
was done by Scipio Gaetano— 
the dead Christ, in the next Cha¬ 
pel, is a copy from M. A. Ca¬ 
ravaggio’s celebrated picture in 
the Vatican. The high altar is 
adorned with four fine columns 
of Porta-Santa, and a superb 
Ciborio. The Tribuna con¬ 
tains Paintings, by Guido ; but 
they are considerably damaged. 
The Chapel of S. Filippo Neri, 
(under one of the organs,) con¬ 
tains his .ashes, and his portrait 
in mosaic, copied from the origi¬ 
nal of Guido ; the Chapel under 
the other organ contains a pic- 

records, that lie was famous for terminating 
amicably the differences which occurred 
amongst his friends and relations—an un¬ 
common panegyric; though one of the 
greatest, perhaps, that can be bestowed on 
any man. 

(o) If the Etrurians w'ere, as some au¬ 
thors suppose, originally Cananeans, pro¬ 
bably they might bring the Old Testament 
into Italy:—and as the Romans borrowed 
many of their religions ceremonies from 
the Etrurians, it seems fair to infer that 
the Sibylline Oracles might be derived 
from the Bible. Libyca prophesied ; “ That 
the day would come when all men would 


[Ch. VIII. 

ture, by Carlo Maratta. The 
next Chapel to that of S. Fi¬ 
lippo Neri contains a picture, by 
Baroccio, of the Presentation of 
the Madonna in the Temple! 
The following Altar-Piece is by 
the same artist, and represents 
the Visitation: and the Paint¬ 
ings in the last Chapel are by 
the Cav. d’Arpino. The Sacristy 
is adorned with a statue of S. Fi¬ 
lippo Neri, by Algardi! a pic¬ 
ture of the Madonna contem¬ 
plating the crown of thorns, by 
Trevisani; and a Ceiling finely 
painted by Pietro da Cortona! 
The apartments above-stairs con¬ 
tain a Ceiling which represents 
S. Filippo Neri, by Pietro de 
Cortona; the portrait of the 
Saint from which the mosaic in 
the church was taken, and a head 
of our Saviour, by Pietro Peru- 
gino! 

Chiesa di S. Maria della 
Pace. This Church contains, on 
the right of the great door, Ra¬ 
phael’s celebrated Sibyls, sup¬ 
posed to be predicting the birth 
of our Saviour 0 !!! This inestim¬ 
able fresco was almost oblite¬ 
rated, and would soon have been 
totally extinct, had not a liv¬ 
ing artist restored it; and so 
well has he executed this difficult 
task that every lover of the art 
of painting would wish to see 
him employed in restoring those 
frescos of the Stanze di Raf- 

see the King of all living tilings.” Cuma:a, 
a Babylonian, prophesied; “ That God 
would be born of a Virgin, and converse 
among sinners.” Delphica prophesied ; 

T* ,at a Prophet would be born of a 
Virgin.” Erythraa, a Babylonian, fore¬ 
told a great part of the Christian religion, 
in verses recorded by Eusebius; the first 
letters of which, being put together, make 
the words, “ Jesus Christ, Son of God, 
Saviour:” and Eersica foretold. That the 
womb of the Virgin would prove the sal¬ 
vation of the Gentiles. 

The word, Sibylla, is oriental, and signi¬ 
fies a Gleaner of ears of corn. 


Ch. VIII.] 

faello, which .are hastening- ra¬ 
pidly to decay. Above the sibyls 
are four Prophets, likewise by 
Raphael. The Frescos on the 
left of the great door are attri¬ 
buted to Timoteo d’Urbino. The 
second Chapel, on the right, is 
embellished with good sculpture ; 
and this church also contains a 
picture of the Visitation, by Carlo 
Maratta. 

Chiesa di S. Agostino. Here 
is a celebrated Fresco of the Pro¬ 
phet Isaiah, by Raphael, placed to 
the left of the great door, and on 
the third pilaster of the nave!! 

Palazzo- Borghese. This is one 
of the most splendid edifices at 
Rome ; and particularly rich in 
Pictures. The Quadrangle con¬ 
tains statues of Giulia Faustina, 
an Amazon, §c. The paintings 
usually shown to Strangers are in 
the apartments on the ground 
floor; the first room of which 
contains—the Saviour taken into 
custody, by Vanderweck—S. Ca¬ 
therine, and other figures, by Par- 
megianino—a fine painting by 
Bassano—S. Peter, by Spagno- 
letto—the Saviour, by Valentin— 
a sketch, by Giorgione!—S. Fran¬ 
cesco, by the Cav. d’ Arpino—Holy 
Family, School of Titian—S. Do¬ 
menico, by Andrea Sacchi—Holy 
Family, by Benvenuto Garofolo! 
—and the same subject, by Sasso- 
Ferrato. The second room con¬ 
tains—a dead Christ, by Federico 
Zuccari!—head of Christ, by Agos¬ 
tino Caracci!—head of the Mag¬ 
dalene, by ditto!—Christ dead, by 
Garofolo!—Diana shooting, by 
Domenichino!!—Holy Family, by 
Carlo Dolci—Christ bearing his 
cross, by Muziana—Christ on the 
cross, with the two Marys stand¬ 
ing near, by Giulio Romano—head 
of S. Antonio, by Agostino Ca- 
facci—head of S. Francesco, by 


197 

the same artist!—a Landscape* 
by the Caracci school—head of 
the Saviour, by Garofolo—and 
the Saviour, the Apostles, fyc. y 
School of Titian!—This room 
likewise contains a Sarcopha¬ 
gus of porphyry, found in Adrian’s 
Mausoleum. Third Room. — A 
Madonna and Child, by Garo- 
falo—the same subject, by Gio¬ 
vanni Bellino—head of an old 
man, by Giulio Romano—ditto of 
Raphael, by himself!—ditto of Pe- 
trarca, by Ilolbens!—two paint¬ 
ings, by Gentilisca—a story from 
Ariosto, by Lanfranco ! — Holy 
Family, by Titian—Pordenone 
and his Family, by himself!—the 
last Supper, School of Titian — 
S. Antonio preaching to the Fishes, 
by Paolo Veronese—the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by Francesco 
Frangi—S. John Baptist in the 
desert, by Paolo Veronese—and 
S. Francesco, by Annibale Ca¬ 
racci. Fourth room. —S. Cecilia, 
by Domenichino!—S. John, by 
Giulio Romano—S. Sebastiano, 
by Rustichino—the Descent from 
the Cross, by Raphael!!—a Mo¬ 
ther in bed, surrounded with her 
Children, School of Titian-—the 
Flagellation, by Sebastiano del 
Piombo!—a group of Figures eat¬ 
ing, by Fiamingo. Fifth room. 
The Woman taken in Adultery, 
by Titian!—Holy Family, by An¬ 
drea del Sarto—Holy Family, by 
the School of Raphael—four oval 
Pictures, by Albano!!—the battle 
of Constantine, by the Cav. d’Ar¬ 
pino—two Landscapes, by the 
Caracci school—and the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by Pietro Pcru- 
gino. Sixth room. —Leda, attri¬ 
buted to Leonardo da Vinci— 
Venus, by Paulo Veronese— 
the Graces, by Giulo Romano— 
Venus, by Andrea del Sarto— 
ditto, by Giulio Romano—Cupid 


ROME. 


108 

and Psyche, by Dossi—anrl Venus, 
by Annibale Caracci. Seventh 
room. —Holy Family, by Giorgione 
—ancient Mosaics—Descent from 
the Cross, by Marcello Venuschi 
—Orpheus, by Paul Brill, and a 
Picture Gallery, by Fiamingo. 
Eighth room. —Sacred and pro¬ 
fane Love, by Titian!!—Portrait 
of Caesar Borgia, by Raphael!— 
a Portrait, by Pordenone—a Car¬ 
dinal, by Raphael! Ninth room. 
The Graces, by Titian!!—the 
prodigal Son, by Guercino!—the 
Saviour on the Cross, by Vandyck! 
—a Boy with flowers, by Annibale 
Caracci—Holy Family, by Andrea 
del Sarto—Marriage of Cana, with 
two small pictures on the sides, by 
Garofolo—Adoration of the Magi, 
by Bassano!!—a sketch of Samp¬ 
son, by Titian—and a Portrait of 
Cosimo de’ Medici, by Bronzino. 
Tenth room. —Holy Family, by 
Venuschi—the same subject, by 
Scipio Gaetano!—the same, by 
Andrea del Sarto!—the same, 
by Giovanni Bellino—and the 
same, by Garofolo—Lot and his 
Daughters, by Gherardo delle 
Notti—the Madonna, our Saviour, 
and S. John, by Andrea del Sarto 
—a Portrait, by Titian—the As¬ 
cension, by Federico Zuccari— 
the Madonna and our Saviour, by 
Francesco Frangi—a small head 
of our Saviour, and another of 
the Madonna, by Carlo Dolci— 
and a Concert, by Leonello Spada. 

Palazzo-Sciarra. The second 
story of this edifice contains a 
small, but choice, collection of Pic¬ 
tures ; the greater part of which 
once adorned the Palazzo-Barbe- 
rini. First room. —The Saviour 
bearing his Cross, by the Cav. 
d’Arpino—S. Barbara, by Pietro 
da Cortona— Noli me tangere, by 
Garofalo!—the Madonna and our 
Saviour, by Giovanni Bellino—a 


[Ch. VIII. 

fine copy of the Transfiguration— 
S. Sebastiano, by Pietro Perugi- 
no!—our Saviour and the Woman 
of Samaria, by Garofalo!—S. 
Francesca and an Angel, by Carlo 
Venetiano — Abraham's sacrifice, 
by Gherardo delle Notti—Ra¬ 
phael’s Fornarina, by Giulio Ro¬ 
mano—a small picture of the Ma¬ 
donna and our Saviour, by Titian 
—ditto of the Holy Family, by 
Bassano—ditto of the Descent 
from the Cross, by Bassano—a 
large antique Painting, subject 
unknown. Second room. — A 
small Landscape, by Paul Brill— 
two Landscapes, by Claude Lor- 
rain !—two ditto, by Fiamingo— 
two of a larger size, by Both!— 
Cupid, by the Cav. Land!—two 
small Landscapes, by Breughel! 

■—and, between them, a little 
Claude—a Landscape, by Niccolo 
Poussin. Thirdroom. —The Holy 
Family, by Francesco Frangi— 
Noah intoxicated, by Andrea 
Sacclii—the Saviour bound to the 
column, by Leonella Spada—Cleo¬ 
patra, by Lanfranco!—theDescent 
from the Cross, by Baroccio—the 
Saviour between Angels, by Fia- 
mingo--Sampson, supposed to have 
been painted either by Caroselli, 
or Guercino!!—Moses, by Guido!! 

1 —Holy F ainily, by Albano!!—and 
our Saviour, the Madonna, and 
other Saints, by Albert Durer. 
Fourth room. —Vanity and Mo¬ 
desty, by Leonardo da Vinci!!!— 
Gamblers cheating a Youth, by 
M. A. Caravaggio!!! — Matri¬ 
mony, by Agostino Caracci—the 
Magdalene, by Guido!—S. James, 
by Guercino—the death of the Vir¬ 
gin, by Albert Durer—the Ado¬ 
ration of the Magi, by Garofalo! 
—Titian and his family, by him¬ 
self!—portrait of a Lady, by Ti¬ 
tian !—Martyrdom of S. Erasmus, 
by Niccolo Poussin!—the Madda- 


ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] ROME. 199 


lena delle radici , by Guido!!—S. 
Girolamo, by Guercino!—S. Mark, 
by ditto!—S. John, by ditto!— 
two Shepherds of Arcadia con¬ 
templating- a human scull, by Schi- 
doneP—portrait of a Youth, by 
Raphael!—head of S. John after 
decapitation, by Giorgione—the 
Madonna, our Saviour, and S. 
John, by Fra Bartolomeo; toge¬ 
ther with small pictures by Breu¬ 
ghel, Albano, fyc. 

Palazzo Doria . This magni¬ 
ficent palace contains a numerous 
and fine collection of Pictures.— 
The first room, shown to stran¬ 
gers, is adorned with a painting, 
by Pietro di Cortona, of Noah’s 
sacrifice ; in the second room, are 
Landscapes, by Gasparo Poussin, 
arid Ciccio, Neapolitano: other 
ante-rooms to the Gallery, contain, 
a Turk on horseback, by Castigli- 
one !—the marriage of S. Cathe¬ 
rine, by Scipio Gaetano — two 
small Landscapes, by Both—our 
Saviour bearing his cross, by An¬ 
drea Mantegna—alarge landscape, 
with figures of Nymphs and Loves, 
by Albano—Endymion, School 
of Rubens—portrait of Macchia- 
vello, by Bronzino !—portraits of 
Bartoli and Baldo, in the same 
picture, by Raphael!!—Jansenius, 
by Titian—Cain slaying Abel, by 
Salvator Rosa !!—portrait of a 
Lady, by Rubens—a Pieta, by 
Annibale Caracci!!—the Descent 
from the Cross, by Vasari: and a 
small Picture, attributed to Giulio 
Romano—Seiniramis, by Paolo 
Veronese—Time plucking Cupid’s 
wings, by Albano !—Bathsheba, 
by Bronca—a Presepe, by Bassa- 
no—and Grecian Charity, by Si¬ 
mone da Pesaro. Gallery ; first 
division, left side. The Visi¬ 
tation, by Garofalo—two small 
oval Landscapes, by Domeni- 


cliino I— 1 The blessed Virgin in 
contemplation, by Sasso-Ferratto! 
—the Magdalene, by Titian—the 
Confessor of Rubens, by the lat¬ 
ter!—a large Landscape, called 
II Molino, by Claude Lorrain !!! 
—six Lunettes, by Annibale Ca¬ 
racci; namely, the flight into 
Egypt! — the Visitation ! — the 
Assumption !-—the Saviour borne 
to the Sepulchre !—the Nativity ! 
—and the Adoration of the Magi! 
—S. John Baptist, by Valentin— 
a Head, by Guido—ditto, by Ba- 
roccio—S. Francesco, by Dome- 
nichino!—Lot and his Daughters, 
byGherardo delle Notti!—S.Roc- 
co with his dog, attributedto M. A. 
Caravaggio, and likewise to Schi- 
done—A landscape, by Claude !!! 
(immediately above Domenichino’s 
lunette of the adoration of the 
Magi;) it represents a sacrifice to 
the Delphic Apollo—Sketch, by 
Correggio, of Virtue, and other 
figures—Holy Family, by Andrea 
del Sarto. The second division 
of the Gallery, contains no pic¬ 
tures. Third division. The Mag¬ 
dalene, by Murillo !—a landscape, 
by Claude, called II Riposo in 
Egitto / / /—the Madonna ador¬ 
ing our Saviour while asleep, by 
Guido!—the Prodigal Son, by 
Guercino !!—a small Landscape, 
by Annibale Caracci, between two 
smaller Landscapes, by Claude— 
a large Landscape, by ditto—Pope 
Pamfili, by Velasquez! — Judith 
and Holofernes, by Guido—a large 
Landscape, by Salvator Rosa, 
called his Belisario / ! ! ! — S. 
Agnes, by Guercino—a Satyr and 
a Youth, by Agostino Caracci— 
another Claude! — Holy Family, 
by Sasso-Ferratto!—a Landscape, 
by Both—four Misers, by Albert 
Durer!—a Shepherd with Pan’s 
pipe, by Rembrandt. Fourth di - 


(p) The skull rests upon a tomb bearing this inscription: “ I, too, was of Arcadia. 


200 ROME. [Ch. VIII. 


vision of the Gallery. Pomona 
and other figures, by Paolo Vero¬ 
nese—the Madonna, our Saviour, 
SfC.y by Garofolo — several Pic¬ 
tures, by Breughel—Animals go¬ 
ing into the ark, by Bassano—Su¬ 
sanna, by Annibale Caracci—two 
Landscapes, by Domeniehino!!— 
Sampson, by Guercino—an Angel 
visiting S. Peter in prison, by Lan- 
franco—Abraham’s offering of his 
son, by Titian !!—a small picture 
of the Saviour on the Cross, by 
Buonaroti!—the Maddalena se- 
dente, by M. A. Caravaggio—a 
Sibyl, by Guercino!—Queen Gio- 
vanna of Arragon, by Leonardo 
da Vinci—Simon Magus, S. Pe¬ 
ter, and S. Paul, by Tiarino—a 
Village feast, by Teniers !—a copy 
of the Aldobrandini marriage, by 
Niccolo Poussin! — a Woman 
catching fleas, by Gherardo delle 
Notti—the Nativity, by Sasso- 
Ferratto—two Portraits, by Ti¬ 
tian !—and the Descent from the 
Cross, by Padovanino. 

Palazzo-Bracciano. This spa¬ 
cious edifice was erected by the 
Chigi family, and has recently 
been fitted up with great magnifi¬ 
cence by its present possessor, the 
Duke di Bracciano. The Qua¬ 
drangle and Staircase contain 
some antique and some modern 
sculpture. The Ceiling of the 
Gallery on the right , upstairs, 
was painted by Domenico del Frati 
and the Cav. Landi: the oval near 
the statue of Hercules is by the 
latter. 7'he pavement is mosaic, 
and beautifully copied from that 
which adorns the circular hall of 
the Vatican. Here are several 
pieces of modern sculpture, and at 
the end of the Gallery four an¬ 
tique Statues, together with the 
Hercules of Canova, represented 
in the act of throwing Lichias 
into the sea! The first room on 


this side of the palace contains a 
Ceiling painted by Camuccini, 
which represents the fable of Cu¬ 
pid and Psyche ! the pavement is 
a beautiful copy from antique mo¬ 
saics. The second room contains 
the statue of a Philosopher seated 
—ditto of an Infant Hercules— 
and ditto of two Children. The 
second division of the Gallery is 
adorned with a Ceiling by Pozzi, 
and a picture of the Madonna and 
our Saviour, by Rubens. The 
third division of the Gallery 
leads to a room adorned with a 
beautiful mosaic pavement, copied 
from that which represents the 
arrival of Menelaus in Egypt, and 
which was found in the Temple of 
Fortune at Palestrina. The next 
room is ornamented with a mosaic 
pavement ; and the third room 
with a statue of Paris—a picture 
of the Holy Family, by Gherardo 
delle Notti—the same subject, by 
M. A. Caravaggio—the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by Rubens— 
the Magdalene, by Gherardo delle 
Notti—a Pieta y by Bassano—a 
small Landscape, by Fiamingo— 
the Adoration of the Magi, by 
Bassano, and a Magdalene, by 
Guido. The fourth room con¬ 
tains several interesting portraits 
(one of which is by Raphael, and 
another by Vandyck,) and a beau¬ 
tiful miniature Pietd, by Annibale 
Caracci! The fifth room contains 
a Cleopatra, by Guido—the Ma¬ 
donna and our Saviour, by Sasso- 
Ferratto—a picture, by Guercino, 
which represents Painting and 
Sculpture !—Children, by "Giulio 
Romano!—S. Gregorio, by M.A. 
Caravaggio—S. Girolamo, by Ti¬ 
tian—the marriage of S. Cathe¬ 
rine, by Parmegiano; and the 
Holy Family, by Giulio Romano. 
The sixth room is adorned witli 
two Landscapes by Claude, one of 


ROME. 


201 


Ch. VIII.] 


which is beautiful; and, between 
them, a Holy Family, by Giovanni 
Bellino—a Magdalene, by Mu¬ 
rillo—-and our Saviour with the 
Woman of Samaria, by Pietro da 
Cortona. The last division o f the 
Gallery is adorned with a Ceiling 
by Palagi—a beautiful modern 
Urn—and an antique statue of a 
Canephora. 

Palazzo Colonna. This im¬ 
mense edifice stands on the site of 
the Domus Cornclii. The stair¬ 
case is adorned with a statue re¬ 
presenting a Captive, (probably 
taken from the Forum of Tra¬ 
jan ;) and fixed in the wall, oppo¬ 
site to the door of entrance, is a 
Basso-rilievo of porphyry, re¬ 
presenting the head of Medusa, 
and supposed to be a likeness of 
Nero. The ante-room to the Gal¬ 
lery contains several pictures ; 
among which are, Calvin, by Ti¬ 
tian—Luther, by the same artist 
—Cain and Abel, by Andrea 
Sacchi—Europa, by Albano—a 
Peasant eating, attributed to An¬ 
nibale Caracci—and a Portrait, 
by Paolo Veronese. The Co¬ 
lonna Gallery , (with respect to 
size and architecture, the finest 
apartment at Rome), measures, 
in length, two hundred and nine 
feet ; and, in breadth, thirty-five: 
at each extremity is a Vestibule, 
separated from the rest of the 
Gallery by columns and pilasters 
of giallo antico. The ceiling is 
well painted ; and represents the 
sanguinary battle of Lepanto, 
fought in the Gulf of Patras; 
and among the pictures and sta¬ 
tues which embellish this apart¬ 
ment are the following. A Land¬ 
scape, by Niccolo Poussin—ditto 
by Vander-Werf—ditto by Gas- 
paro Poussin, Orizonte, Paul 


Brill, Breughel, Berghem, fyc .— 
the Madonna, the Saviour, and 
S. John, by Roinanelli—S. Peter 
with the Angel, by Lanfranco— 
the Magdalene in glory, by An¬ 
nibale Caracci—S. Sebastiano, 
by Guercino—S. John in the De¬ 
sert, by Salvator Rosa—Ctesar 
sacrificing, by Carlo Maratta— 
and a Sketch by Titian, of him¬ 
self and his family at their devo¬ 
tions. Statues of Venus, Germa- 
nicus, Trajan, and Flora; toge¬ 
ther with that of a recumbent 
Female, supposed to be Grecian 
sculpture. 

This Palace likewise contains 
a small Column of rosso antico, 
called, The Colonna Bellica: it 
once stood before the Temple of 
Bellona; and was found in its 
vicinity q. 

Palazzo - Giustiniani. This 
edifice stands on the site of Nero's 
Baths; whence several of the 
antiquities of its museum were 
taken ; but as the major part, has 
been sold, little now remains 
worth notice, except a group in 
the hall of entrance, representing 
two Warriors fighting ; and, in 
the other apartments, a Grecian 
Statue, with the arms elevated— 
a group called Matrimony—a bust 
of Scipio-—a statue called Paris— 
ditto of a Goat—a group repre¬ 
senting Hercules and Cerberus— 
and the statue of a sleeping Fe¬ 
male. 

Palazzo-Massimi. This edi¬ 
fice contains a statue of a Disco¬ 
bolus, in white marble ; copied 
from that, in bronze, by the ce¬ 
lebrated Myron ; and deemed one 
of the finest pieces of sculpture in 
Rome!!! Here, likewise, are two 
small statues of Loves!—a fine 
picture of S. Girolamo reading, 


(q) When Rome declared war against a 
foreign enemy, au arrow was shot from the 


top of the column which stood before the 
Temple of Bellona. 


202 


ROME. 


with an Angel looking over him, 
by Niccolo Poussin!—and, on the 
Back-Front of the palace, are 
Frescos, by M. A. Caravaggio! 

Palazzo-Jiraschi. This palace, 
built after the designs of the Cav. 
Morelli, and one of the most 
magnificent edifices at Rome, is 
adorned by a Staircase particu¬ 
larly beautiful, both with respect 
to its construction and its deco¬ 
rations ; among the latter of which 
are sixteen Columns of red orien¬ 
tal granite ; pilasters of the same; 
and four antique statues, namely, 
Commodus, Ceres, Achilles, and 
Pallas. In the Apartments up¬ 
stairs are the following pictures. 
The Madonna and our Saviour, 
by Guido—the Madonna, our 
Saviour, and Saints, by Garo- 
folo — Dalida and Sampson, by 
M. A. Caravaggio—Miracle of 
the loaves and fishes, by Garofolo! 
—the Woman detected in adul¬ 
tery, by Titian!—the Madonna and 
Angels, by Murillo!!—the mar¬ 
riage of S. Catherine, by Fra Bar¬ 
tolomeo—the marriage of Cana 
in Galilee, by Garofolo!—S. Se- 
bastiano, by Fiamingo—Copy, by 
one of the Caracci school, of a 
Holy Family painted by Raphael 
—Lucretia, by Paolo Veronese— 
and the Crucifixion, by Tintoretto. 

An unfinished apartment of 
this Palace contains a celebrated 
colossal statue of Anti no us, in 
the character of Osiris, the Indian 
Bacchus: it was found at Pales¬ 
trina, during the Pontificate of 
Pius vi.; is of beautiful Greek 
marble, and about eleven English 
feet in height. The left hand 
once held a thyrsus of bronze ; 
and close to the left leg stands the 
mystic basket of Bacchus. The 

(r) Most of the materials for building the 
Farnese Palace, were taken from the Co- 
lisjeum and the Theatre of Marcellus ; in* 


[Ch. VIII. 

bronze drapery, which originally 
covered part of this figure, is, 
like the thyrsus, lost: the face 
and hair precisely resemble the 
alto-rilievo of Antinous in the 
Villa Albani; the character is 
beautiful; the position grand and 
imposing; the execution delicate; 
the preservation of the marble 
perfect ; in short, this is deemed, 
according to the opinion of Flax- 
man, (our British Phidias,) the 
finest of all the existing statues of 
Antinous. 

Palazzo-Farnese. This im¬ 
mense palace, commenced by San- 
gallo, and finished by Buonaroti 
and Giacomo della Porta, is 
deemed a fine piece of architec¬ 
ture 1 '. Before it stand two mag¬ 
nificent oval Basins of Egyptian 
granite, (above seventeen feet in 
length, and in depth between four 
and five,) which were found in 
Caracalla’s Baths: and in the 
Quadrangle is the Sarcophagus 
of Cecilia Metella, made of Pa¬ 
rian marble, and found in her mo¬ 
nument. The Gallery above stairs 
is adorned with some of the most 
admired Frescos in Rome, exe¬ 
cuted by Annibale Caracci and 
his scholars. The centre piece on 
the Ceiling represents the Triumph 
of Bacchus and Ariadne ! Other 
paintings represent Paris receiv¬ 
ing the golden apple from Mer¬ 
cury—Pan offering goat-skins to 
Diana — Galatea with Tritons, 
Nymphs, and Loves—Jupiter and 
Juno—Apollo flaying Marsyas— 
Boreas carrying off Orythia— 
Diana and Endymion—Eurydice 
recalled to the Shades Below— 
Europa on the bull—Aurora and 
Cephalus in a chariot, Titan 
asleep, and Cupid flying with a 

deed, the Colisaeum, during many years, 
seems to have been considered merely as a 
stone quarry. 


ROME. 


203 


Ch. VIII.] 

basket of roses—Venus and An- 
chises—Hercules and Iole—Cu¬ 
pid binding- a Satyr—Salmacis 
and Hermaphroditus — Syrinx 
turned into reeds by Pan—Lean- 
der, conductedby Cupid, swimming 
to visit Hero—Perseus and An¬ 
dromeda—combat between Per¬ 
seus and Phineas — Polyphemus 
playing on the syringa, to charm 
Galatea—Polyphemus hurling the 
fragment of a rock at Acis—Ju¬ 
piter and Ganymedes—and Hya- 
cinthus and Apollo. Another 
apartment, called 11 Gabinetto, 
contains fine Frescos, by Anni¬ 
bale Caracei; namely, Hercules 
supporting the celestial Globe— 
Ulysses delivering his Compa¬ 
nions from Circe—the same Hero 
passing the Islands of the Sirens 
—Anapus and Amphinomus sav¬ 
ing their Parents from death, dur¬ 
ing an eruption of iEtna—Per¬ 
seus beheading Medusa—and Her¬ 
cules wrestling with the Nemsean 
Lion. The ornaments in chiaro¬ 
scuro, which divide these paint¬ 
ings, are beautifully executed. 

Palazzo-Spada. The ground- 
floor of this edifice contains two 
rooms adorned with fine Sculp¬ 
ture. In the first, is a copy of 
the head of Laocoon, and a statue 
of Antisthenes seated!! In the se¬ 
cond, are eight Bassi-rilievi found 
in the Temple of Bacchus !! and 
a colossal statue of a Warrior 
holding a globe, supposed (though 
without good authority) to re¬ 
present Pompey the Great, and to 
be the figure at whose base Caesar 
fell!! This statue, if report speak 
truth, was found in a vault, under 
the Strada de’ Leutari, near the 
Piazza di Pasquino. Among the 
pictures up stairs the following 
are some of the most striking. 
First room, David with the head 
of Goliali, by Guercino ; and Ro¬ 


man Charity, by M. A. Cara¬ 
vaggio. Second room. Judith 
with the head of Holofernes, by 
Guido—Lucretia, by ditto—the 
head of Seneca, by Salvator Rosa 
—a Landscape, by Teniers—Ja¬ 
cob at the Well, by Niccolo Pous¬ 
sin—and Time unveiling Truth, 
by Albano. Third room. S. 
Anna teaching the Madonna to 
work, by M. A. Caravaggio!!—• 
the Saviour before Pilate, by Ghe- 
rardo delle Notti—Judith with the 
head of Holofernes, by M. A. Ca¬ 
ravaggio — Beatrice Cenci, by 
Paolo Veronese—and Dido on the 
funeral Pile, by Guercino. Fourth 
room. Portrait of Paul hi., by 
Titian—ditto of Cardinal Spada, 
by Guido—a Snow Piece, attri¬ 
buted to Teniers—the heads of 
two Boys, attributed to Cor¬ 
reggio !! — The Magdalene, by 
Guercino; and a female Musi¬ 
cian, by M. A. Caravaggio. 

Palazzo-Mattei. This palace 
was built after the designs of Ain- 
mannati, on the site of the Circus 
Flaminius. The Quadrangle ex¬ 
hibits an ancient and valuable 
Basso-rilievo of green basalt, re¬ 
presenting an Egyptian sacrificial 
procession ! and on the stairs are 
two antique Seats of marble, and 
two fine Bassi-rilievi. The cor¬ 
ridor above is likewise ornamented 
with bassi-rilievi; and in the 
rooms usually shown to strangers 
are the following paintings. Fish, 
Poultry, and Butchers’ meat, four 
pictures, allbyPasseri—Charles i., 
and Charles n., of England, by 
Vandyck—two Landscapes, attri¬ 
buted to Passeri—Holy Family, 
of the Caracci-schooi—Abraham’s 
sacrifice, by Guido—the Nativity, 
by Pietro da Cortona; and the 
Cavalcade of Clement viii., and 
the Entry of Charles v., into 
Bologna, by Tempesta. The 


204 


ROME. 


gallery contains a bust of Ci¬ 
cero ; and its Ceiling- is finely 
painted by Pietro da Cortona, 
Paul Brill, 8fc. 

Palazzo-Costaguti. This pa¬ 
lace contains six Ceilings finely 
painted in fresco: the first, by Al- 
btano, represents Hercules wound¬ 
ing the Centaur—The second, by 
Domenichino, represents Apollo 
in his car ; Time bringing Truth 
to light; and Boys with lions’ 
skins, Hercules’s club, 8fc.ll — 
The third, by Guercino, repre¬ 
sents Rinaldoand Armida!—The 
fourth, by the Cav. d’Arpino, re¬ 
presents Juno nursing Hercules. 
This room likewise contains por¬ 
traits of a Duke and Duchess of 
Ferrara, by Titian ; and an inte¬ 
resting picture of a Gipsy, by 
M. A. Caravaggio.—The fifth 
ceiling by Lanl'ranco, represents 
Justice embracing Peace—and, 
the sixth, by Romanelli, repre¬ 
sents Arion thrown into the sea, 
and preserved by a dolphin. 

Palazzo-Falconieri. The pic¬ 
tures here, collected by Cardinal 
Fesche, are very numerous, and 
several of them very fine ; those 
of the Flemish school especially. 
The first floor contains, the Visi¬ 
tation, by Daniello da Volterra— 
Christ supping with the Pilgrims, 
by Paolo Veronese, who has in¬ 
troduced portraits of his own fa¬ 
mily into the picture—the last 
Judgment, by Tintoretto — the 
Assumption, by Guido! 1 —a Ma¬ 
donna and Child, by Andrea di 
Salerno — a fine Bassano — the 
Daughter of Herodias with the 
head of S. John, (the latter finely 
executed,) by Guercino—the Holy 
Sepulchre,, by Albano!—the Ma¬ 
donna, the Saviour and S. John, 
by Murillo!—Peace and Justice, 
author doubtful—a fine portrait, 
by Titian—S. Carlo Borommeo* 


[Ch. VIII. 

by Domenichino—Semiramis, at 
her toilet, receiving intelligence 
of a revolt, by Mengs—two por¬ 
traits, by Paris Bordone — a 
Landscape, by Salvator Rosa— 
ditto, attributed to Titian—ditto, 
attributed to Annibale Caracci— 
ditto, by Gasparo Poussin—the 
Saviour borne by Angels after 
the Crucifixion, by Correggio !— 
two Children, by ditto ! — Holy 
Family, by ditto!—a Madonna 
and Child, by Annibale Caracci— 
S. John, by Leonardo da Vinci— 
a picture in the style of Murillo, 
author unknown—a picture paint¬ 
ed by Raphael when he was only 
eighteen, and before he quitted 
the school of Perugino—and an¬ 
other, painted afterward, when 
he was five-and-twenty—the Holy 
Sepulchre, by Annibale Caracci! 

•—Sketch, by Correggio — Holy 
Family, by Andrea del Sarto— 
Madonna and Child, by Schidone! 
—Cupid mounted on an Eagle, 
by Domenichino!—Holy Family, 
by Fra Bartolomeo!—S. John, 
by Correggio! three Frescos, 
sketched by Buonarotti,and finish¬ 
ed by Sebastiano del Piombo— 
S. John preaching, by Rembrandt! 
—four Heads, by ditto, one being 
his own likeness—a Landscape 
with Cattle, by Cuyp !—another, 
with Fishermen, by ditto! — a 
Landscape, by Paul Potter—a 
Philosopher, by Gerard Dow !— 
a Battle, by Wouvermans !—the 
Caravan, by Adrian Vanderwelde! 
—a Landscape, by Paul Potter— 
the Saviour in prison, by Teniers! 
—a Landscape, by Isaac Van 
Ostade !—the inside of a Cottage, 
or Stable, by Teniers!—Peter 
denying the Saviour, by Gherardo 
delle Notti—the Magdalene, by 
Vandyck!—insides of Churches, 
by Peter Neff—an Ecce Homo , 
by Rembrandt—the Ascension, 


205 


ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] 

by Vandyck, fyc. fyc. The second 
floor has not lately been shewn 
to Foreigners; but contained, 
when last exhibited to public 
view, a picture of Diana and other 
Figures, by Le Seur—the Sa¬ 
viour, Mary, and Martha, by 
ditto—the following pictures by 
Niccolo Poussin: Holy Family 
with Angels—Human Life, re¬ 
presented by the four Seasons!— 
the Deluge!—and a Landscape, 
called Les Chartreux ! —Land¬ 
scapes, by Claude, fyc. S>-c. s 

Palazzo Farnesina. The En¬ 
trance-Half of this edifice is finely 
painted in fresco, by Raphael and 
his Scholars; who have repre¬ 
sented the History of Psyche. 
On the Ceiling are the Council 
and Banquet of the Gods—in one 
of the Angles are the Graces ; 
and she whose back only is seen 
was executed entirely by Raphael. 
In an adjoining • room is his Ga¬ 
latea, together with a fine colossal 
Head, (in one of the Lunettes,) 
sketched by Buonaroti 1 . On the 
Ceiling of this room is Diana in 
her car—and the Fable of Me¬ 
dusa—together with several other 
ornaments, by Daniello da Vol- 
terra, Sebastiano del Piombo, and 
Baldassar Pcruzzi. The Hall 
above stairs is adorned with a 
painting of Vulcan’s Forge, by 
Peruzzi: and a Frieze, executed 
by the Scholars of Raphael 11 . 

Palazzo-Corsini. This noble 
palace, once the residence of 
Christina of Sweden, contains a 
magnificent double Staircase, 
which leads to a suite of apart- 

(.v) In order to see Cardinal Fesche’s 
pictures, it is requisite to apply to his Se¬ 
cretary for permission; and likewise to 
mention the names of the persons who 
wish to be admitted. 

(0 We are told that Buonaroti, thinking 
the figures in this room too diminutive for 
the situations in. which they are placed, 


ments enriched with some good 
sculpture, and several fine pic¬ 
tures. First room. A Sarco¬ 
phagus found at Antium!—an 
ancient Mosaic—a Head, copied 
from Guido, in modern Mosaic—• 
Bust, in nero antico. Second 
room. Marriage of S. Catherine, 
by Carlo Maratta—and two Land¬ 
scapes, by Orizonte. Third room. 
An Ecee Homo, by Guereino!!— 
a Head, by Rubens—S. Peter and 
S. Agata, by Lanfranco—Holy 
Family, by Baroccio—S. Giro¬ 
lamo, by Guereino—the Madonna 
and our Saviour, by M. A. Cara¬ 
vaggio!—the same subject, by 
Vandyck—two small Landscapes, 
by Salvator Rosa — two Heads, 
(supposed to represent Luther 
and his Wife,) by Holbein—Holy 
Family, by Fra. Bartolomeo!— 
ditto, by Garofolo—the Saviour 
and the Woman of Samaria, by 
Guereino—Heathen Divinities, by 
Albano—portrait of Julius n., at¬ 
tributed to Raphael—portrait of 
Philip ii., attributed to Titian— 
a Drawing, by Lanfranco—and 
an ancient consular Chair of Pa¬ 
rian marble. Third room. The 
Madonna and our Saviour, by 
Andrea del Sarto—a Vestal, by 
Carlo Maratta—Holy Family, by 
ditto—Raphael's Fornarina, at¬ 
tributed to Giulio Romano— S. 
Girolamo, attributed to Titian— 
Paul hi., attributed to Raphael— 
the Magdalene, by Baroccio—S. 
John, by Guereino—Holy Family, 
by Bassano — Crucifixion of S. 
Peter, by Guido!—a wild beast 
Hunt, by Rubens !—a Rabbit, by 

drew the above-named Head, in order to 
make Raphal sensible of his error: and 
Raphael is supposed to have felt the criti¬ 
cism so poignantly that he was disgusted 
with his work, and left it unfinished. 

(u) Unless the Custode be apprized be¬ 
fore-hand, it is not always possible to gain 
admittance to the Palazzo Farnesina. 


206 


ROME. 


Albert Durer! —The Decapitation 
of S. John, by Guido!!—and a 
small statue of the Saviour, by 
Biionaroti. Fourth room. The 
Madonna, by Carlo Maratta—an 
Eccc Homo, by Carlo Dolci—and 
ditto, by Guido. Fifth room. Por¬ 
trait of a Lady, by Leonardo da 
Vinci—the Sons of Charles v., by 
Titian — and Pope Pamfili, by 
Velasquez. Sixth room. The 
Woman detected in Adultery, by 
Titian!—a large Landscape, by 
Gas. Poussin!—two Landscapes, 
by Orizonte—the Saviour disput¬ 
ing with the Doctors, by Luca 
Giordano—a Madonna and Child, 
by Murillo ; and S. Sebastiano, 
by Rubens. Seventh room. A 
Pietii, by Lodovico Caracci — S. 
John Baptist, by M. A. Cara¬ 
vaggio—two oval pictures, by Al- 
bano—Judith with the head of 
Holofernes,by Gherardo delle N ot- 
ti!-—Love, sleeping, by Guido— 
Seneca in the Bath, by M. A. 
Caravaggio—Landscapes, by Gas. 
Poussin—Peter denying our Sa¬ 
viour, by Valentin—a Sketch fora 
Frieze, by Polidoro da Caravag¬ 
gio !—and Susanna, by Domeni- 
chino. Ninth room. Sheep, £,-c., 
by Teniers!—Holy Family, by 
Niccolo Poussin ! — Prometheus, 
by Salvator Rosa!—the Plague 
at Milan, by Muratori—a Land¬ 
scape, by Niccolo Poussin—and 
two oval pictures of Angels, by 
Sebastiano del Piombo. 

Accademia di S. Luca. This 
Academy, and the adjoining 
Church of Saints Luca e Martina, 
stand near the Forum of Augus¬ 
tus ; and the latter is supposed to 
have been built on the foundations 
of the Secretari um Senatus. The 
Academy contains the Skull of 


[Ch. VIII. 

Raphael—a celebrated picture, by 
that Artist, of S. Luke, painting 
the portraits of the Madonna and 
our Saviour, and Raphael himself 
looking on w !—a picture of our 
Saviour with the Pharisee, by 
Titian! — two Landscapes, by 
Salvator Rosa — ditto, by Gas. 
Poussin—two Heads, by Ange¬ 
lica, one being her own portrait— 
Models, by Buonaroti, of some of 
his figures in the Cappclla dc’ 
Principe at Florence; and several 
other interesting pieces of Sculp¬ 
ture and Painting. The Church 
of Saints Luca e Martina, con¬ 
tains a recumbent statue of the 
latter Saint, under the high-altar, 
by Niccolo Menghino: and here 
likewise is a subterranean Chapel, 
made by Pietro da Cortona, at 
his own expense. 

VILLAS NEAR ROME. 

Villa-Olgiaii, fuori la Porta 
del Popolo. This Casina, like¬ 
wise called Villetta-Nelli, was 
once inhabited by Raphael and 
his scholars ; who have embellish¬ 
ed it with Arabesques, and other 
Frescos ; some of which are in 
tolerably good preservation: and 
one of these paintings, namely, 
the Marriage of Alexander and 
Roxana, is deemed well worth 
notice. 

Vtlla-Porghese. The Paddock 
in which this magnificent Villa 
stands, is near three miles in cir¬ 
cumference ; and contains a hand¬ 
some Fountain, and a Temple, 
called that of iEsculapius, from 
an antique statue of iEsculapius 
placed there. The Portico of the 
Villa leads to a splendid Hall , 
the Ceiling of which was painted 
by Mariano Rossi, and represents 


(tv) This picture has been so much restored that very little HOW remain® 
of the original painting by Raphael. 


VILLAS NEAR ROME. 


Ch. VIII.] 

the Combat between Furius Ca- 
millus and tlie Gauls. Here, like¬ 
wise, placed most advantageously, 
near the ceiling 1 , is an Alto-rilievo 
of Curtius leaping 1 into the Gulf!!! 
The horse (than which nothing- 
can be finer) is certainly antique; 
but, according to some opinions, 
the figure of Curtius is modern. 
Another room on the ground 
floor , is embellished with a Fresco 
on the Ceiling, by Caccaniga ; it 
represents the Fall of Phaeton: 
and among the statues, are Ceres 
—a Persian Soldier—Domitian, 
and a Vestal; all recently found 
at Frascati—an Hermaphrodite 
(supposed to be Grecian sculpture) 
resting on a Mattress, excellently 
executed by Bernini—and ano¬ 
ther statue, supposed to be Gre¬ 
cian sculpture, and called The 
faithful Shepherd. The Ceiling 
of the Gallery tip stairs was 
painted by Pietro Angeletti, and 
represents the fable of Acis and 
Galatea. Over the chimney-piece 
of another apartment is a Basso- 
rilievo, in rosso antico, by Agos- 
tino Pcnna. Here, likewise, is a 
room painted by Hamilton ; who 
has represented the story of Paris 
and Helen ; and in the same room 
is a superb modern Vase, made of 
oriental marble. The most strik¬ 
ing easel pictures are ; S. John, 
by Mengs—a BacchanalianScene, 
by Niccolo Poussin—Holy Fa¬ 
mily, by Luca Giordano—a Hen 
and Chickens, by Petra!—two 
Snow-pieces, by Foschi! —and 
the portrait of Paul v., by M. A. 
Caravaggio. This villa also con¬ 
tains two Ceilings painted by 
Conca (the one representing An- 

( x ) The Custode of the Villa-Borghese 
lives at the Borghese-Palace, in Rome; 
but is always ready to show the Villa, 
when desired ; and generally there from 
two o'clock till four ia the afternoon, during 
winter and spring, 


207 

thony and Cleopatra ; the other a 
Bacchanalian Sacrifice,’) and like¬ 
wise a ceiling painted by Lan- 
franco, and retouched by Corvi, 
which represents Hercules, An¬ 
taeus, and heathen Divinities x . 

Villa-Ludovisia, near the Bor - 
ta-Salaray. One of the buildings 
in the Garden belonging to this 
Villa contains Guercino’s Aurora; 
a Fresco equally famous with, 
though totally different from, that 
of Guido; the one representing 
Day-break, the other Sun-rise. 
The Ceiling of the room immedi¬ 
ately over Guercino’s Aurora is 
adorned with a beautiful figure of 
Fame, accompanied by War and 
Peace, all by Guercino. Another 
building contains a celebrated 
statue of Mars seated, with Love 
at his feet!!—a beautiful group, 
supposed to represent Phtedra 
and Hippolitus, by Menelaus, a 
Grecian Sculptor!!! — a group, 
called Psetus and Aria!! — and 
a basso-rilievo of Pyrrhus!! Near 
the garden-gate is an admirable 
head of Juno: and this garden 
likewise contains a statue of a 
Senator, with “ Zeno,” (the name 
of a Grecian sculptor) on the dra¬ 
pery 2 . It is necessary to choose 
a fine day for seeing the Villa 
Ludovisia, every thing worth no¬ 
tice being in the garden. 

Villa-Albani. This is one of 
the most magnificent Villas in the 
environs of Rome ; and contains 
a large collection of Statues, 
Busts, Bassi-rilievi, $c. Stair¬ 
case. A basso-rilievo representing 
Hercules and the Hesperides— 
ditto of three of the Children of 
Niobe—ditto of Juno Lucina, or 

( y) The Villa-Ludovisia, though beyond 
the streets, is within the walls of Rome. 

( z) It is impossible to obtain admission to 
the Villa-Ludovisa without an order from 
the Prince of Piombino. 


208 


VILLAS NEAR ROME. 


the goddess Rumilia, supposed to 
protect infants : this Basso-rilievo 
is Etruscan, and the most ancient 
work of its kind at Rome. Rooms 
leading to the Gallery. Group 
of a Faun and a Bear—head of a 
young Faun! — small statue of 
Pallas, in bronze !—Apollo Sau- 
roctonon, in bronze!—an Egyp¬ 
tian statue of Canopus, in green 
basalt!—ditto of Osiris—a deified 
Hercules! — and the celebrated 
Alto-rilievo of Antinous !!! Gal¬ 
lery. This apartment is incrusted 
with rare marbles, and its ceiling 
painted by Mengs ; who has re¬ 
presented Apollo and Mnemosyne 
encircled by the Muses! Here 
are bassi-rilievi representing Her¬ 
cules between two of the Hespe- 
rides — Icarus and Diedalus a — 
Bellerophon and Pegasus — and 
Marcus Aurelius seated, with 
Faustina in the character of Peace. 
Here, likewise, is a statue of Ju¬ 
piter, and a statue of Pallas! 
Galleries of sculpture belovj- 
stairs. The Satyr Marsyas ; (the 
limbs of this statue are modern) 
—a beautiful column of flowered 
alabaster—a basso-rilievo repre¬ 
senting the history of Alcestis— 
ditto representing Pheedra and 
Hippolitus —Agrippina seated—• 
Basin, ten feet in diameter, adorn¬ 
ed with bassi-rilievi representing 
the labours of Hercules ! — an 
Etruscan Minerva — two Vases 
adorned with bassi-rilievi —head 
of Jupiter Serapis in basalt!—small 
statue of a Comedian—Apollo 
seated and draped—a Child hiding 
itself under a mask—a small an¬ 
tique Fountain ; and several Urns 
in basalt. These galleries like¬ 
wise contain Hermoe of the most 

(a) Found at the foot of the Palatine* 
hill. 

(b) Noble Roman Ladies, Priestesses of 


[Ch. VIII. 

distinguished Characters of Anti¬ 
quity ; SfC. $c. 

At the end of each Gallery, 
below stairs, is a small Peristyle: 
that on the left side contains an 
ancient mosaic Pavement, and a 
statue of Diana of Ephesus—and 
here, likewise, is an Etruscan 
Altar, embellished with Bassi-ri¬ 
lievi. The opposite Peristyle is 
adorned with Canephone b , and 
one of the Statues called Carya¬ 
tides, which were found on the 
Via-Appia, and are supposed to 
be Grecian sculpture !! 

Another Building , adorned 
with a circular Portico, contains 
Busts and Statues ; among which 
are those of iEsop, Bacchus, two 
Canephorge, and another of the 
statues called Caryatides. This 
Portico leads to a small Apart¬ 
ment containing an Egyptian sta¬ 
tue, in oriental alabaster, of Isis, 
found at Rome, near the site of her 
temple in the Campus Martius— 
other statues of Egyptian Deities ; 
and an Owl in basalt, with the 
Phallus on its head. Near this 
apartment is another, adorned 
with a basso-rilievo representing 
Trimalcion followed by Comedi¬ 
ans, entering a banqueting room. 

The statue of Domitian, dis¬ 
covered between Frascati and Pa¬ 
lestrina in the year 1758, and 
placed under the large Portico of 
the Villa Albani, is noticed by 
Winckelmann both on account of 
the excellence of the sculpture, 
and likewise because almost every 
statue of Domitian was destroyed 
by the Romans after his death: 
this statue was found with the 
arms and head broken off, and 
the trunk injured by strokes of a 

Minerva, who carried on their heads, in 
baskets, various things destined for sa- 
crifice. 


VILLAS NEAR ROME. 


209 


Ch. VIII.] 

mattock; the head, however, es¬ 
caped injury. 

Villa-Mattel. This villa is si¬ 
tuated beyond the Arch of Dola- 
bella, though within the walls of 
Rome. The garden is adorned 
with an Egyptian obelisk; and 
commands a particularly good 
view of Caracalla’s Baths. The 
first room shewn to strangers, in 
the Villa, contains a copy of the 
Demoniac Boy. The second room 

is ornamented with the statue of 
# 

a sleeping Love—ditto of Venus, 
by Canova—and a group, called 
Filial Affection, by a Spanish 
Artist. The third room contains 
a copy of Raphael’s Galatea—a 
picture of the Salutation — and 
another of the Saviour dead. The 
fourth room contains a picture of 
Horatius Codes on the Sublician 
bridge, copied by Camuccini from 
that in the Capitol—a Landscape 
—and the rape of the Sabines. 
The fifth room contains a striking 
picture of a Saint blessing a dying 
person—another picture of the 
martyrdom of a Saint, and a bust 
of Nero, by Canova. The sixth 
room is adorned with an ancient 
Pavement, found near the Villa. 

Villa Doria-Pamfili, fuori la 
Porta S. Pancraxio. On the 
Janiculum hill, and in the way to 
this Villa, is the Church of S. 
Onofrio; which contains, under 
its portico, three Lunettes, painted 
by Domenichino. The Madonna 
and our Saviour, over the door, 
were likewise done by the same 
great master ; and, in the Church, 
are the Tombs of Torquato Tasso, 
and Alessandro Guidi; the former 
of whom died in the adjoin¬ 
ing convent, which contains a 
Bust, moulded from his face. 

Beyond the church of S. Ono¬ 
frio is the Fontana-Paolina, 
constructed at the command of 


Paul v„ by Fontana, with mate¬ 
rials .taken from the Forum of 
Nerva. This magnificent Foun¬ 
tain is adorned with six Ionic co¬ 
lumns of red granite, that support 
an entablature, upon which rest 
the armorial bearings ofthe Pontiff. 
From three niches, between the 
columns, rush three torrents of 
water, and precipitate themselves 
into a vast basin of marble: while 
from two smaller niches rush 
smaller streams, out of the mouths 
of dragons. The water is sup¬ 
plied from Trajan’s Aqueduct, 
About three-quarters of a mile 
beyond the Porta S. Pancrazio, 
on the Via Aurelia, is the Villa 
Doria-Pamfili; of which Algardi 
was the architect. The Paddock 
belonging to this Villa is nearly 
four miles in circumference ; and, 
according to some opinions, the 
site of the Gardens of Galba. The 
Villa contains several pieces of 
Sculpture, among which are, the 
famous Olimpia—Faustina! — 
Vespasian—Marcus Brutus—and 
a Sibyl. Here, likewise, is a 
Sketch, by Raphael—ditto by 
Giulio Romano—a bust of De¬ 
mosthenes !—ditto of another Phi¬ 
losopher—a group of Cybele seat¬ 
ed on a lion!—Groups of Chil¬ 
dren at play-—Clodius in female 
attire—an Hermaphrodite—Bac ¬ 
chus, in rosso antico—a hasso- 
rilievo of a famous Gladiator, who 
lived during the reign of Cara- 
calla—and two beautiful Sarco¬ 
phagi, one representing the story 
of Meleager, the other Diana de¬ 
scending from the celestial Regions 
to visit Endymion. In a room 
above stairs is a portrait of the 
Ccnei; and in the attic story a 
small Museum. The roof of this 
Villa commands a fine view of 
Rome ; and in the Garden, near 
the gate of entrance, is an an - 

p 


ROME. [Ch. VIII. 


210 

cient public Burial-place , well 
worth observation! 

Villa-Madama,f uori la Porta- 
Angelica. This edifice, which 
stands near the base of the Monte 
Mario (anciently Clivus dunce), 
was designed by Raphael, and 
finished, after his death, by Giulio 
Romano; who painted the por¬ 
tico, and designed the ornaments 
in stucco, with which it is em¬ 
bellished. The interior of the 
villa, though in a ruinous state, 
exhibits a beautiful Frieze, and a 
Ceiling, both painted by Giulio 
Romano, who has represented, on 
the latter, the Cars of Diana and 
Apollo, Birds, Beasts, §c. ; among 
which are a sleeping Lion, and a 
Goat going to be sacrificed, both 
finely executed. This room like¬ 
wise contains most valuable Car¬ 
toons ; which are so totally ne¬ 
glected, that they must very soon 
be quite spoiled. Two other rooms 
exhibit Friezes and Cartoons, cru¬ 
elly injured, but once very beau¬ 
tiful. The view from this villa is 
charming ; and the Ponte Molle, 
Tiber, city of Rome, and moun¬ 
tains of the Apennine, appear to 
more advantage here, than from 
any other spot. 

A winding path leads from the 

(y) Basilicas are, generally speaking, 
open from sun-rise till sun-set. Persons 
wishing to be sure of admittance, at any 
given hour, to Palaces or Villas, should 
apply a day beforehand. Admittance to the 
Museums of the Capitol and Vatican may 
usually be obtained on days when they are 
not open to the public, by an application 
to the Custodeof each Museum; who,when 
thus called upon, expects a fee of live or 
six pauls; and perhaps more, if the party 
lie attends be very numerous. At S. Peter’s 
it is advisable to appoint the Sacristan a 
day beforehand ; and likewise at small un¬ 
frequented churches. 

The expense of seeing the whole of S. 
Peter’s, including the subterranean Church, 
amounts to several pauls; as there are three 
or four Sacristans, each of whom expects 
a fee. In other churches there is but one 
Sacristan; and he does not expect more 
than two pauls, At a Palace it is usual to 


Villa-Madama to the upper part of 
the Monte Mario, where stands 
the Villa-MeUina, whence the 
Mediterranean sea may be dis¬ 
covered y. 

There are several Hospitals at 
Rome: that of S. Spirito is a 
noble edifice, and receives Found¬ 
lings, and sick persons of all de¬ 
scriptions 2 . The Hospital of S. 
Michele likewise is a spacious 
building, and receives Invalids, 
aged Persons, and Orphans ; the 
last of whom are taught the arts of 
Painting, making Tapestry, fyc. 

The Mosaic Manufacture , 
near S. Peter's, under the direc¬ 
tion of the Cav. Camuccini, is 
highly worth notice ; as are the 
Studii of that distinguished art¬ 
ist a , and the Cav. Landi. Kei- 
serinan, No. 31, Piazza di Spagna, 
is a celebrated Landscape Painter 
in water colours. The Cav. Fi- 
danza is a good Landscape Painter 
in oils ; and especially successful 
in imitating Salvator Rosa. Re¬ 
bell is a line Painter, and parti¬ 
cularly successful in sea-views: 
but Voogd and Reinhards appear 
to be considered as the best Land¬ 
scape Painters at Rome. Granet 
represents the insides of Churches 
in a wonderful manner. Metz 

give at Panne, as in other cities of Italy, 
from three to five pauls, according to the 
size of the party: and in subterranean 
apartments where the Custode provides 
wax lights, it is usual to give from three to 
four pauls. 

Late in the spring, when the weather at 
Rome becomes hot, parties frequently go 
to the Villa-Madama, taking with them a 
cold dinner, which they eat on the terrace 
there ; and then proceed to the shady walks 
which surround the Villa-Mellini; ordering 
their carriages to meet them at the foot of 
the hill behind that Villa. 

(z) The want of cleanliness in this Hos¬ 
pital makes it a dangerous place to visit. 

(a) The Cav. Camuccini has, at his pri¬ 
vate house, a collection of pictures by the 
most distinguished masters; and likewise 
some fine statues and bassi-rilievi; which 
he allows to be seen by Travellers every 
Sunday morning, from ten o’clock till two. 


Ch. VIII.] 

draws beautifully; and lias pub¬ 
lished fine Engraving-s of the last 
Judgment, and other frescos in 
the Vatican. 

The greatest Sculptor of the 
present day is the Cav. Thorwald- 
sen, whose chisel produces Bassi- 
rilievi which, like the Frescos of 
Raphael, may be called inimi¬ 
table b . 

One of the most celebrated Ca¬ 
meo-cutters is Girometti; and the 
best Artist of this description, who 
works in shells, is Dies, at No. 76, 
Via della Croce. 

Rome is usually frequented 
during winter by several English 
medical men; among whom is Dr. 
Clark, who resides in the Piazza 
di Spagna. 

Messrs. Torlonia and Co., the 
principal Bankers in this city, are 
particularly obliging and useful to 
the British Nation. 

Rome contains six Theatres; all 
of which are open during Carni¬ 
val, and some at other seasons. 

The Carnival usually begins 
eight days previous to Ash Wed¬ 
nesday ; and finishes with Shrove¬ 
tide. During this period of ge¬ 
neral festivity the Corso, a fine 
street extending from the Porto 
del Popolo to the foot of the 
Capitol, is decorated with tapes¬ 
try and silk hangings from every 
window and balcony c ; enli¬ 
vened with military bands of 
music, and crowded with Masque¬ 
raders, in carriages and on foot, 
from two in the afternoon till sun¬ 
set ; during the latter part of 
which time horse races, like those 
at Florence, are exhibited. At night 
the Teatro Aliberti, a large and 

( b ) A studio, near the Via-Babuino, 
contained, in 1822 , thirteen statues, re¬ 
cently discovered in the Greek Island 
of yEgina: they are finely executed in 
the Etruscan style; of high antiquity; 
and originally adorned the pediment of a 


211 

handsome edifice, is open for 
masked balls: and though, during 
the three last days of Carnival, 
the crowd of Masks on the Corso, 
and in other parts of the city, is 
great beyond conception, and 
though the number of persons at 
the masked balls often exceeds 
five thousand, not a single word 
is spoken that can hurt the most 
delicate ears, nor a single thing 
done that can tend to disturb pub¬ 
lic tranquillity. 

Another Festival, little known 
to Travellers, but well worth ob¬ 
servation, from being a remnant 
of the ancient Saturnalia, is that 
celebrated on Sundays and Thurs¬ 
days, during the month of Octo¬ 
ber, on the Monte Testaccio. 
This hill contains the public wine 
vaults of the city, and from being 
composed of large fragments of 
pottery, between which the air 
constantly penetrates, is pecu¬ 
liarly fitted for its present use ; as 
an invariable coolness is preserved 
beneath its surface. On this hill, 
during the days already men¬ 
tioned, tables are spread with re¬ 
freshments : and hither, on these 
days, flock the whole population 
of Rome and its environs, to drink 
wine fresh drawn from the vaults 
beneath their feet. It is impossible 
to conceive a more enlivening 
picture than the summit of Monte 
Testaccio exhibits on this occa¬ 
sion. Groups of peasants, ar¬ 
rayed in their gayest cosume, are 
seen dancing the Santarclla; 
others are seated in jovial parties 
round the tables; and others 
mingle with the upper ranks of 
Romans; who leave their car- 

lemple : they now belong to the King of 
Bavaria. 

(c) When Triumphs, and other public 
Processions took place in ancient Koine, 
the streets were decorated, as at this day, 
with veils or hangings. 

r 2 


ROME. 


212 


ROME. 


riages at the foot of the hill, and 
stroll about to enjoy this festive 
scene. Bodies of cavalry and in¬ 
fantry parade to and fro, to pre¬ 
serve order ; while the pyramid of 
Cains Cestius, and the adjoining 
Tombs of the Protestants, by 
forming- a strong- contrast to these 
Saturnalian rites, add interest to 
the picture d . 

During- Lent the principal 
amusements are Church Ceremo¬ 
nies, the Academy of the Arca¬ 
dians ; the Academy Tiberina; 
the music, (which begins about 
three o’clock every afternoon, and 
is especially good on Fridays,) at 
S. Peter’s; and Serletti’s Con¬ 
cert, which consists of a piano¬ 
forte and about twenty singers, 
who manage so as to give their 
voices the effect of a full band of 
instrumental music. They chiefly 
perform the Marcello Psalms ; so 
called from a noble Venetian who 
composed this music, which is 
particularly fine. In the Church 
of Gesu, likewise, there frequently 
is fine music during Lent. 

The Ceremonies of the Holy 
Week commence on Palm Sun¬ 
day, in the Chapel of the Ponti¬ 
fical Palace at Monte Cavallo ; 
where the Pope officiates, and 
blesses the Palms ; after which, 
the Passion is beautifully chant¬ 
ed. In order to see this func¬ 
tion, which represents the entry 
of our Saviour into Jerusalem, it 
is necessary for Foreigners to 
go at half-past nine in the morn¬ 
ing 6 . 

On Wednesday, in the Holy 

(d) Pinelli constantly attends the Fes¬ 
tival at Monte Testaccio, to study subjects 
tor his characteristic pencil ; and late in 
the spring parties frequently go to dine 
here, taking a cold dinner with them. 

(e) It is not deemed proper, during the 
Holy Week, to appear in public without 
wearing mourning; and wherever the Pope 


[Ch. VIII. 

Week, at four in the afternoon, 
the Tenebrce and the Miserere 
are sung by the Pope’s Choir in 
the Cappella-Sistina f , and like¬ 
wise in S. Peter’s. 

On Holy Thursday Foreigners 
should be in the Cappella-Sis- 
tina by half-past eight in the 
morning, to see the Ceremony of 
carrying the Host to the Cappella- 
Paolina ; the illumination of that 
Chapel, and the representation of 
the Holy Sepulchre. They should 
then endeavour to obtain front 
seats in the Loggia, near the 
Court leading to the Museo-Chia- 
ramonti; but if unable to ac¬ 
complish this, they should station 
themselves near the steps lead¬ 
ing to S. Peter's, in the covered 
Gallery not exposed to the sun, 
in order to see the Benediction ; 
which takes place about noon, 
and is a peculiarly fine sight s. 
After the benediction, the Pope 
washes the feet of thirteen Pil¬ 
grims ; and then waits upon them 
while they dine. To see both 
these Ceremonies is attended with 
so much difficulty that Foreigners 
would do well to relinquish the 
former, and witness the latter, 
which is generally considered the 
most interesting of the two: and 
in order to accomplish this, they 
should ascend the stairs opposite 
to those leading to the Museo- 
Chiaramonti; and instead of en¬ 
tering the Pilgrims’ Hall, on the 
top of the stairs, turn into the 
Loggia on the left, which leads 
to the Dinner-room, At four in 
the afternoon the Tenebrce and 

officiates Ladies are directed to appear in 
Veils. 

(./’) Allegri’s Miserere is that usually 
sung in the Cappella Sistina. 

(o) On quitting the Cappella Sistina, to 
obtain trout seats in the Loggia, the best 
way is to descend the first Staircase on 
the left. 


213 


ROME. 


Ch, VIII.] 

Miserere are again sung by the 
Pope’s Choir in the Cappella- 
Sistina ; after which, the inside 
of S. Peter's is illuminated by an 
immense Cross, thickly studded 
with brilliant lamps, and sus¬ 
pended from the centre of the 
cupola. 

On Good Friday, at ten in the 
morning, Foreigners should go to 
the Cappella-Sistina, in order to 
see the Host taken by the Pope 
from the Cappella-Paolina. At 
four in the afternoon the Tene- 
bree and Miserere are again re¬ 
peated in the Cappella-Sistina ; 
while the illuminated Cross is 
again displayed in S. Peter’s; and 
about half-past seven, in the eve¬ 
ning of this day, there is a par¬ 
ticularly good Arcadia. 

On Saturday morning, at eight 
o’clock, Jews and Turks receive 
baptism in the Church of S. Gio¬ 
vanni in Laterano ; where, dur¬ 
ing the morning, there usually is 
fine vocal music ; and about nine 
o’clock the resurrection service is 
performed in the Pontifical Chapel 
at Monte Cavallo, by the Pope, 
Cardinals, fyc. 

On Easter Day, at nine in the 
morning, Foreigners should be 
at S. Peter’s, in order to procure 
good places for seeing the Pope 
enter that Church in state: and 
after having witnessed this splen¬ 
did procession, they should once 
more place themselves either in 
the Loggia near the Court lead¬ 
ing to the Museo-Chiarainonti, 
or opposite to the Loggia, in one 
of the Arches of the covered Gal¬ 
lery below, to see the second Be¬ 
nediction, and obtain a good view 
of the Piazza di S. Pietro, which, 

(/i) Persons who wish to hav,e a parti¬ 
cularly fine view of the Pontifical Court on 
Easter-day, should stand near the foot of 
the Scala Regia, or great staircase of the 


on Easter-day, seldom contains 
less than an hundred and fifty 
thousand persons, soldiers inclu¬ 
sive. Between twelve and one 
o’clock the Pope returns in state 
from the interior of S. Peter’s ; 
and immediately ascends to the 
Loggia on the outside of the 
church ; where he no sooner ap¬ 
pears than all the troops kneel; 
and, when lie has pronounced the 
blessing, the drums beat, the 
cannon of S. Angelo fire, and 
the bells ring in every direction ; 
while the superb costume of the 
Pontifical Court, the picturesque 
dresses of the peasantry, and the 
splendid equipages of the Cardi¬ 
nals, foreign Princes, §c. ; ren¬ 
der this scene equally magnificent 
and impressive h . About half an 
hour after sunset commences the 
first illumination of the outside 
of S. Peter’s ; which is effected 
by means of four thousand four 
hundred paper lanterns, lighted 
by men suspended on the outside 
of the edifice by ropes, and drawn 
up and down by persons station¬ 
ed within: but the service is so 
imminently dangerous that these 
lamp-lighters receive the sacra¬ 
ment before they begin their la¬ 
bour. The lamps which compose 
this first illumination cast a light 
somewhat resembling that of the 
moon: but, at seven o’clock, li¬ 
terally in one moment, the whole 
scene changes, and presents the 
most brilliant spectacle imagi¬ 
nable ; as every part of the 
Church, to the very summit of 
the cross on the cupola, appears 
one blaze of fire. The materials 
which compose this second Illu¬ 
mination are pitch, wood-shav- 

Vatican, about half-past nine in the morn¬ 
ing, and see the Pope and his Attendants 
descend the stairs on their way to S. 
Peter’s. 


214 


ROME. 


ings, and eighty-four flambeaux, 
so wonderfully managed that the 
effect is perfection. About eight 
o’clock commence the Fireworks 
of the Castle of S. Angelo. This 
magnificent sight begins with an 
explosion, called the Girandola; 
and produced by four thousand 
five hundred rockets, so arranged 
as to represent an eruption of Ve¬ 
suvius. A variety of beautiful 
changes then take place ; and the 
whole closes with a second Gi¬ 
randola that appears to convert 
the very Tiber into flames ; and 
throws reflected light upon the 
majestic dome of S. Peter’s, which 
shines brilliantly amidst the seem¬ 
ing conflagration K 

These fireworks, and the illu¬ 
mination of the church, are re¬ 
peated on S. Peter’s day. 

On Ascension day the Pope 
usually officiates at S. Giovanni, 
in Laterano ; and gives the 
Benediction from the great Log¬ 
gia on the outside of that church; 
he likewise officiates on the Fes¬ 
tival of Corpus Domini, when 
there is a magnificent Procession 
in the Piazzo di S. Pietro, toge¬ 
ther with fine Music ; the latter 
being repeated for several days in 
S. Peter’s and the Church of 
Gesu. On the first Sunday in 
Advent he usually officiates in the 
Capella-Sistina; on Christmas- 
day at S. Maria Maggiore, whi¬ 
ther he goes in state k ,* on the 
eighteenth of January, at S. Pe- 

(£) Persons desirous of seeing both the 
Illumination and the Fireworks to advan¬ 
tage, should go in an open carriage to the 
Piazza di S. Pietro half an hour after suu- 
set; remaining in the Piazza till the second 
Illumination of the Church has taken place; 
and then driving quickly to their station 
for seeing the Fireworks ; passing over the 
Ponte Sisto, instead of the Ponte S. An¬ 
gelo. 

The best Station for seeing the Fire¬ 
works is the Loggia of the Palazzo-Alto- 
vite, in the Piazza Angelo, No, 15 


[Ch. VIII. 

ter's, whither, likewise, he goes 
in state (that being the anniver¬ 
sary of the day when S. Peter’s 
Chair was placed in the church); 1 
on the second of February, in the 
Pontifical Chapel of Monte Ca- 
vallo, in order to bless the Can¬ 
dles, which is a splendid cere¬ 
mony ; and again on Ash Wed- 
nesday in the Pontifical Chapel 
of Monte Cavallo, in order to 
throw cinders on the heads of the 
Cardinals, fyc. 

The magnificence displayed at 
Rome in church-ceremonies, and 
indeed on every public occasion, 
is unparalleled; but during the 
winter and spring of 1819, it could 
not be witnessed without asto¬ 
nishment. The first event which 
called forth this spirit of magnifi¬ 
cence was the death of the exiled 
Queen of Spain ; whose funeral 
is said to have cost thirty thou¬ 
sand scudi. After lying in state 
several days at her own residence, 
the Barberini Palace (where, in 
conformity with Spanish customs, 
her Ladies waited round her as if 
she had been still living ; and her 
Gentlemen attended daily to ask 
what she would choose to eat for 
dinner, and whether she would 
like to go out in her carriage;) she 
was removed, in an elegant open 
sarcophagus drawn by a pair of 
her own horses, to the Basilica of 
S. Maria Maggiore ; and placed 
on a sumptuous bier in the centre 
of that church ; which, being hung 

and the front-places in Ibis Loggia are 
usually let at a scudo each. 

(/c) There is an interesting Function, on 
Christmas-day, at the Church of i>. Maria 
Maggiore, from four in the morning till 
seven: persons, however, who go at half 
past live, or even an hour later, see the 
most interesting part of this Function; 
which consists of a Procession, with the 
Cradle, 4c. 

(1) On the eighteenth of January, at three 
in the afternoon, there is beautiful Music 
in S, Peter’s. 


2 15 


ROME. 


Ch. vm.j 

with black and silver ornaments 
in a manner assimilating- perfectly 
with the style of the edifice, g-ave 
it the appearance of a vast public 
assembly-room arrayed in gor¬ 
geous mourning attire. Here all 
the Ladies and Gentlemen belong¬ 
ing to the Court of the Deceased, 
the Cardinals, and other Roman 
Princes and Nobles, together 
with all the Foreigners of distinc¬ 
tion, and legions of inferior per¬ 
sons, were assembled to hear the 
service for the Dead, and to take 
a last look at her Majesty ; who, 
dressed with regal splendour, and 
resembling a large doll more than 
a corse, was placed in so exalted 
a situation as to be universally 
seen. After this ceremony, she 
was carried for interment to S. 
Peter’s, preceded by all the Con¬ 
fraternities in Rome, and attended 
by a considerable number of 
Dignitaries of the Church, and 
likewise by the Representatives of 
the Apostolic Chamber ; the for¬ 
mer walking bare-headed, the 
latter on horseback, and wearing 
their ancient costume. The queen 
was carried on a large open bier 
by thirty bearers, followed by the 
sarcophagus, already mentioned, 
which conveyed her to S. Maria 
Maggiore; and, after this, came 
the deposed King of Spain’s state 
carriages, sixteen in number, each 
being drawn empty by a set of 
fine horses, and attended by livery 
servants. r fhe procession amount¬ 
ed to three thousand persons ; 
most of whom held large wax 
torches ; and when their light 
(piercing through the veil of even¬ 
ing) was thrown on the castle of 

(m) The word. Cardinal is derived from 
Cardo, a hinge ; and no council lias been so 
long established in Europe as that of the 
Cardinals; for, though at times debarred 


S. Angelo, where minute guns 
were fired as the Body passed ; 
when the same light glanced on 
the magnificent colonnades of the 
Piazza di S. Pietro, and at length 
illuminated the fa£ade of the 
church itself, this scene, combined 
with the death-like quietude of 
every spectator, the sonorous and 
solemn sound of the great bell at 
S. Peter’s, and the roll on the 
muffled drums with which the body 
was received into the church, 
produced, altogether, the most 
impressive effect imaginable. 

The scenes which took place, 
in consequence of the Emperor 
of Austria’s visit to Rome, were 
of a very different description. No 
sooner was it known that he in¬ 
tended to honour the ancient Mis¬ 
tress of the world with his presence 
than those hinges of papal go¬ 
vernment, the Cardinals" 1 , worked 
incessantly to prepare for his re¬ 
ception ; insomuch that every weed 
was removed from the streets and 
squares, every museum put into 
the nicest order, and almost every 
apartment of the immense pontifical 
palace on the Quirinal hill, (except 
a few rooms occupied by the 
Pope,) new painted and new fur¬ 
nished ; while three hundred cooks 
were hired for the Emperor and 
his suite, thirty carriages, besides 
those which followed the funeral 
of the Queen of Spain, put into 
requisition for his service; and 
three hundred coachmen and foot¬ 
men clothed in sumptuous liveries, 
and engaged to wait on him, his 
companions, and attendants: and 
from the moment when he arrived 
to that on which he departed, a 

from exercising its authority, it never, since 
first constituted, was, even for one moment, 
abolished. 


216 


ROME. 


fete of some description was daily 
proposed for his amusement, to fill 
up the time not occupied by church 
ceremonies. The most striking 1 
of these entertainments was the 
illumination of S. Peter's, and the 
display of fire-works at the Castle 
of S. Angelo ; the former being 
lighted according to Buonaroti’s 
plan, the latter exhibiting the 
Mausoleum of Adrian in its ori¬ 
ginal form, superadded to the 
girandola , and other customary 
changes. The Fete given at the 
Capitol was likewise particularly 
splendid. The two museums of 
sculpture and painting, and the 
Senator’s palace, which fronts the 
steps leading to the capitol, were 
all united by temporary galleries, 
and their fa<^ades completely co¬ 
vered with fire-works, so contrived 
that the Emperor let them off in 
due succession, merely by lighting 
the touch-paper of one rocket. 
The interior of the three united 
buildings was hung with white silk 
spotted with silver stars, like the 
drapery used by the Greeks in very 
ancient times ; the ceilings were 
adorned with paintings, and the 
floors covered with green cloth; 
while some of the finest sculpture 
nowin existence addeddignity and 
interest to every apartment. An 
ode, written in honour of the Em¬ 
peror, was sung by the best vocal 
performers, supported by the best 
orchestra Italy could produce ; 
while sixteen rooms were thrown 
open containing supper-tables, 

(«) The hall where the Arcadian Acade¬ 
my assemble, when they present the laurel 
crown to any one of their Members, is in 
the palace of the Senator at the Capitol. 

Rosa Taddei (called, in Arcadia, Licora 
Parthenopia) is a celebrated Improvvisa- 
trice: and Sig. Tommaso Sgricci’s powers, 
as an Jmprovvisatore, are such that, on 
being given the most difficult subject for a 


[Ch. VIII 

exhibiting, among other decora¬ 
tions, highly-finished miniature 
paintings on wax ; and loaded with 
every luxury of the Roman mar¬ 
ket ; such indeed was the quantity 
of eatables provided for this enter¬ 
tainment, that no sooner had one 
dish been emptied than another 
appeared, as if brought by magic, 
to fill its place. One of these 
supper-tables encircled the bronze 
statue of the wolf which was struck 
with lightning when Csesar fell ; 
and this statue made a beautiful 
ornament; other tables were 
adorned with equal taste ; in short 
nothing was wanted, but the pre¬ 
sence of Rosa Taddei and Sgricci 
in the Arcadian hall, to add, by 
the wonderful notes of their in¬ 
comparable lyres, to the various 
enchantments of the evening". 

It is necessary that English 
Ladies should have tickets for the 
ceremonies of the Holy Week, 8>-c.; 
which tickets may be procured by 
an application to the British Con¬ 
sul : and so particularly kind is the 
present Pope to the British Na¬ 
tion, that every possible civility is 
shown them, when they attend the 
functions of the Roman Catholic 
Church. He likewise allows Eng¬ 
lish Ladies to be introduced to 
him, either in his garden, or a 
small room adjoining ; and, when 
received in the latter, he scats 
them by his side, and converses 
with much graciousness. His 
countenance beams with benevo¬ 
lence, and his manners arc gen- 

tragedy which his audience can suggest, he 
never fails, after considering about ten 
minutes, to speak, on the given subject, a 
tragic drama, divided into live acts, so well 
constructed, and so beautiful with respect 
to versification and sentiments, that it is 
scarcely possible for those who listen not to 
think him inspired. 


ROME. 


217 


Ch. VIII.] 

tlemanlike: but, from stooping 
excessively, be appears infirm 0 . 

British Travellers have lately 
been allowed to hire an apartment 
in the Foro Trajano, for the cele¬ 
bration of divine service accord¬ 
ing- to the rites of the Protestant 
Church. 

The Corso, the Paddock of the 
Villa Borghese, the road between 
the Porta Pia and the Mots 
Sacer, and the drive , already 
mentioned, on the Trinitu de' 
Monti, are the Promenades most 
frequented at Rome. This city 
contains several Hotels, and a very 
considerable number of private 
lodgings. Among- the former are 
L' Hotel de Londres, Piazza di 
Spagna— L'Hotel d' Europe, Pi¬ 
azza di Spag-na— L'Hotel de la 
Ville de Paris, and L'Hotel des 
P ussies, Via della Croce— L'Ho¬ 
tel de la Grande-Bretagne, Via 
Babuino— L'Hotel de S. Carlo, 
and L'Hotel de la Sibylle, in the 
Corso. 

I will now close my account of 
Rome with a List of the Objects 
best worth notice, as they lie con¬ 
tiguous to each other ; beginning 
with the Antiquities. 

Foro Romano—Tempio di 
Giove Tonante—Tempio della 
Concordia—Arco di Settimio Se- 
vero—Tempio di Saturno — Co- 
lonna di Phocas—Tempio di 
Antonino e Faustina—Tempio 
di Giove Statore—Chiesa di 
S. Maria Liberatrice—Tempio 
di Remo—Tempio della Pace — 
Tempio di Venere e Roma — 
Arco di Tito — Colossco—Arco 
di Costantino—Chiesa di S. Teo- 
doro—Arco di Settimio Severo 
in Velabro—Arco di Giano 
Quadrifroute—Cloaca Massima 

(o) Ladies cannot be introduced to the 
Pope without wearing veils, and dresses 
which come up to the throat: he does not 


—Chiesa di S. Maria in Cosme - 
din—Tempio di Vesta—'Tempio 
della Fortuna Virile—Palazzo 
de' Cesari—Circus Maximus — 
Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul Monte 
Celio—Terme di Tito—Sette 
Sale—Chiesa di S. Martino in 
Monte—Chiesa di S. Pietro in 
Vincoli—Chiesa di S. Maria 
della Navicella—Chiesa di S. 
Stefano Rotondo. 

Obelisk of the Piazza del Po- 
polo—Obelisk of the Trinita de' 
Monti — Villa Medici — Statues, 
Horses, and Obelisk in the Piazza 
di Monte Cavallo—Chiesa di S. 
Bernardo—Chiesa di S. Maria 
degli Angeli—Obelisk of S. Ma¬ 
ria Ma o-n-lore—Column in the 
Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore — 
Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore 
—Obelisk of S. Giovanni in La- 
terano—Battisterio di Costanti¬ 
no—Basilica di S. Giovanni in 
Laterano — Scala Santa — An- 
fiteatro Castrense — Basilica di 
Santa Croce in Gerusafemme 

— Temple of Venus and Cupid 
—Claudian Aqueduct — Chiesa 
di S. Bibiana—Tempio di Mi¬ 
nerva Mcdica—Arco di Gallieno 
—Chiesa di S. Prassede . 

Campidoglio—Tempio di Pal- 
lade — Tempio e Foro di Nerva 

— Foro e Colonna T raj ana — 
Dogana Pontificia—Obelisk of 
Monte Citorio — Colonna Anto¬ 
nina — Ma usoleo d'Augusto — 
Campo Marzo—Mausoleo Adri¬ 
ano. 

Tempio del Sole, net Giardino 
Col o n nese — Obeli sk ofth e Piazza 
di S. Maria sopra Minerva — 
Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Mi¬ 
nerva — Pantheon—Bagni d'A- 
grippa—Piazza Navona — Chi- 
esa di S. Agnese—Teatro di 

like to speak French himself; but permits 
Foreigners to answer him in that lan¬ 
guage. 


218 


ROME. 


[Oh. VIII. 


Marcello—Portico d' Octavia —• 
Temp io <i Esenia pro — C/iiesa 
di S. Cecilia in Trastevere — 
Basilica di S. Maria iti Tras¬ 
tevere. 

C/iiesa di S. Prisca, Monte 
Avcntino—Chiesa di S. Sabina 
•—Chiesa di S. Alessio—Villa of 
the late King of Spain—Sepolcro 
di Cajo Cestio—Ter me di Cara- 
calla—Sepolcro degli Scipioni. 

Churches and Palaces. Basi¬ 
lica di S. Pietro — Vaticano. 

Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini, 
in Piazza Barberini — Palazzo- 
Barberini—Chiesa di S. Maria 
della Vittoria—Fontana di Ter¬ 
mini—Chiesa di S. Andrea , a 
Monte Cavallo — Palazzo-Pon- 
tificio — Palazzo - Rospigliosi — 


Garden containing Guido's Au¬ 
rora Fontana di Trevi. 

Chiesa di S. Maria del Popolo 
—di S. Carlo al Cor so—di S. 
Lorenzo in Lucina—di S. Igna- 
zio — de' S. S. Apostoli—di S. 
Maria di Loretto—di Gesii—di 
S. Andrea della Valle—della 
Trinita de' Pelegrini—di S. 
Carlo a Catenari — diS. Giovanni 
de' Fiorentini—di S. Maria in 
Vallicella—di S. Maria della 
Pace—di S. Agostino. 

Palazzi Borghese — Sciarra — 
Doria — Bracciano — Colonna — 
Gi usti n ia n i — Massimi—Brasch i 
— Farnese — Spada — Mattei — 
Costaguti — Falconieri — Farne- 
sina — Corsini—Accademia di S. 
Lucca. 


CHAPTER IX. 

TIVOLI, FRASCATI, PALESTRINA, AND ALBANO. 


Excursion from Rome to Tivoli—Pons Mammcus—Monument of Julia Stemma—Lago 
de’Tartari—Bridge of the Solfatara—Ponte Lucano—Adrian’s Villa—Villa of Cassius— 
Inns at Tivoli—Temple of the Tiburtine Sibyl—Temple of Vesta—Grotto of Neptune 
—Grotto of the Sirens—Circular Terrace —Villa of V arus—Ponte del Aquoria—Tem- 
pio della Tossa—Meceenas’s Villa—Site of the Villa of Sallust—Site of the Temple of 
Hercules—Garden of the Villa d’Este—Glandian Aqueduct near the Convent of S. 
Cosimato—Horace’s Villa and Sabine Farm—Excursion from Rome to Frascati— 
Sepulchres—Grotto-Ferrata—Villas Belvedere and Rnffinella—Ruins of Tusculum— 
Excursion to Palestrina—Temple of Fortune—Excursion to Albano—Tomb of Clodius 
— Amphitheatre—Reservoir—Praetorian Camp—Museum—Lago Castello—Castel-Gan- 


dolfo—Emissario—Hoinitian’s V ilia — 1 

Aricia—Lodging-houses, §,C. —Character 

As British Travellers seldom 
visit Rome without making excur¬ 
sions thence to Tivoli, Frascati, 
Palestrina, and Albano, it may 
not, perhaps, be superfluous to 
mention what I found the most con¬ 
venient way of seeing those places. 

Tivoli. 

This excursion ought to be 

( p ) The common price, per day, for a 
light open] carriage with two horses, from 


of the Curiatii—Climate of Albano and 
the Romans. 

made in dry and temperate wea¬ 
ther ; and persons who wish to 
view the scenery to advantage 
should go in May or October. 

I hired an open carriage, with 
six seats and four horses, paying 
ten scudi forgoing and returning 
the same day ; and givingtomydri- 
ver, for buona-mano, one scudoP, 
The distance from Rome to Ti- 

Rome to Tivoli and back, buona-mano not 
included, is four scudi. 



219 


ENVIRONS OF HOME—TIVOLI, 


Ch. IX.] 

voli is about eighteen miles, and 
the road, generally speaking, good, 
though now and then, in the an¬ 
cient Via Tiburtina, (great part 
of which still remains,) there are 
large loose blocks of basalt, which, 
if not avoided, might break a car¬ 
riage. 

After passing the Gate and 
Church of S. Lorenzo, the first 
interesting object I discovered was 
the Ponte-Mammolo (Pons Mam- 
meus,) thrown over the Teverone, 
anciently called the Anio, from 
King Anius, who precipitated him¬ 
self into it. This bridge is about 
four miles distant from Rome, and 
derives its present appellation from 
Mammea (the mother of Alexan¬ 
der Severus,) by whom it was re¬ 
paired. Further on, I observed 
a small Monument erected to the 
memory of Giulia Stemma, by her 
children : and beyond this, on the 
left of the high-road, and very near 
it, is the La go <le' Tartar i, ancient¬ 
ly a volcano. The water of this lake 
petrifies every vegetable substance 
with which it comes in contact, 
and is curiously hedged round with 
stalactites. I proceeded next to the 
Bridge of the Solfatara, thrown 
over a stream anciently denomi¬ 
nated Aquae Alb idee, which smells 
offensively, and is so white as to 
resemble milk: then, driving about 
two miles further, I was presented 
with abeautiful Landscape,formed 
by the Ponte Lucano, the Anio and 
the Plautian Tomb. The Ponte 
Lucano is supposed to derive its 
name from M. Plautius Lucanus, 
which seems probable, as close to 
this bridge stands the above-men¬ 
tioned Burial-place of his family, 
a remarkably handsome edifice of 
its kind, constructed with traver- 
tino, taken from quarries on the 
side of the Apennine, near Tivoli, 


After crossing the Ponte Lucano, 

I observed two roads, the one 
leading to Tivoli, which is about 
two miles distant; the other lead¬ 
ing to Adrian’s Villa, which is about 
one mile and a half distant from 
the bridge, and nearly twice as 
much from the town. I took the 
latter road ; and after having been 
precisely three hours and a half 
in my carriage, from the time I 
left Rome, arrived at Adrian's 
Villa, where, ordering the drivers 
to wait, I walked through the 
Ruins with a Cicerone who is al¬ 
ways on the spot to attend Tra¬ 
vellers. Adrian himself was the 
architect of this celebrated Villa, 
which extended three miles in 
length, and one in breadth, and 
contained Temples, Theatres, 
Baths, and Porticos, adorned with 
chefs-d'oeuvres of sculpture and 
painting ; to which buildings he 
gave .the names of the most re¬ 
markable edifices in the world, 
calling one the Lycoeuin of Aris¬ 
totle, another the Academia of 
Plato, a third the Prytaneum of 
Athens, a fourth the Serapeon of 
Canopus, a fifth the Paecilc of the 
Stoics, $-c. tyc. I was conducted 
first to the Greek Theatre, of 
which the Proscenium, and seats 
for the spectators, may still be 
traced: hence I proceeded to ex¬ 
amine three ruins, called, the 
Temple of the Stoics, the Mari¬ 
time Theatre, and the Library ; 
the two first of which exhibit con¬ 
siderable remains. I then visited 
a ruin, called the Temple of Di¬ 
ana and Venus, on my way to the 
imperial Apartments, the vaults 
of which are, in some places, nearly 
perfect: hence I went to the Par- 
racks of the Praetorian Guards ; 
and a Hall destined, it is supposed, 
for philosophical studies; part of 


230 


ENVIRONS OF ROME—TIVOLI. 


the Ceiling still remains. Hence 
I proceeded to the Baths , observ¬ 
ing traces of the Naumachia; and 
lastly visited the Serapeon , where 
some of the paintings are tolerably 
well preserved q. 

Having spent an hour and a 
half in this Villa, I got into my 
carriage and ascended the hill to 
Tivoli; passing through a fine 
wood of olives, and observing 
Ruins on the right, supposed to 
be remains of the Villa of Cassius. 
Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, a place 
of high antiquity, is built upon 
rocks formed of a deposition from 
the water in this neighbourhood, 
united with roots and branches of 
petrified trees. The Anio de¬ 
scends from a great height at the 
east end of the town; where it 
forms a large and beautiful cas¬ 
cade : and, after a second fall, 
under a lofty bridge, loses itself 
among rocks, which are worn into 
fantastic shapes by the force of 
the water. A branch of the same 
river is carried through Tivoli; 
and forms small Cascades, which 
should be viewed from the oppo¬ 
site bank. The best inn at Ti¬ 
voli in some respects is La Re¬ 
gina ; though in point of situa¬ 
tion, that called La Sibilla is pre¬ 
ferable. After breakfasting at the 
former, I visited the Temple of 
the Tiburtine Sibyl, now con¬ 
verted into a Church: it is the 
most ancient Temple remaining at 
Tivoli; and appears to have been 
built in the form of a parallelo¬ 
gram, with an open portico, 
adorned by four Ionic columns, 

( q ) Scarce any windows can be traced 
in the remaining buildings of Adrian’s Villa. 
Persons who bring a cold dinner from 
Rome, and spend the day here, find a 
tolerable apartment to dine in, furnished 
by the Custode; who expects, for tlxe use 


[Ch. IX. 

and terminated with a pediment. 
The Columns on the outside of 
this edifice are still discoverable ; 
but there is nothing worth notice 
within. Adjoining to the above- 
named Temple is a shabby mo¬ 
dern building, which extends to 
the Temple o f Vesta. This beau¬ 
tiful specimen of ancient archi¬ 
tecture, proudly situated on a rock 
which hangs over one of the cas¬ 
cades, is a small Rotunda, sur¬ 
rounded by an open portico of 
fluted Corinthian columns, whose 
capitals are adorned with lilies, 
(emblematical, perhaps, of Vestal 
purity,) and support an entabla¬ 
ture decorated with heads of oxen 
and festoons r . Hence I pro¬ 
ceeded through an excellent path, 
made by General Miollis, to the 
Grotto of Neptune. Nothing can 
be more delightful, both to the 
painter and the naturalist, than 
this walk ; the views it presents 
being remarkably picturesque; 
and the petrifactions in the rocks 
extremely curious. I observed, 
in one place, a petrified carriage- 
wheel ; and in another the hoof of 
a quadruped. The Grotto of 
Neptune, into which the Anio 
precipitates itself with such vio¬ 
lence as to form a spray resembling 
rain, combines the sublime and 
beautiful so wonderfully that 
even Salvator Rosa's magic pencil 
could not do j ustice to the scene ; 
and at the entrance of the Grotto 
is a rock which, with very little 
aid from Imagination, might be 
figured as the Genius of the 
Anio sculptured by the nervous 

of this apartment, and his attendance, one 
scudo. 

( r) The door of entrance, and the only 
window which remains perfect, are nar¬ 
rower at top than at bottom ; and, thus far, 
the Temple resembles an Egyptian edifice. 


Ch. IX.] ENVIRONS OF ROM E—TI VO LT. 


hand of Buonaroti. Returning 
hence, and then descending- a 
narrow flight of steps into a deep 
ravine, I reached the Grotto of the 
Sirens ; somewhat similar to that 
of Neptune ; and beheld the third 
fall of the Anio s . I then re-as¬ 
cended to the Temple of Vesta ; 
and having ordered a donkey to 
attend, in case any one of the 
party should be tired with walking, 

I set out for the circular Ter¬ 
race, which exhibits the small 
Cascades to great advantage, and 
makes a round of about four miles. 
While pursuing this tract I passed, 
on the right, the Villa of Quinti- 
lius Varus; observing Reser¬ 
voirs which probably belonged to 
the Baths of the Villa ; while, on 
the left, I had a distant prospect 
of the Cathedral , which is only 
remarkable for standing on the 
site of the Temple of Hercules. 
Having crossed the Ponte del 
Aquoria, an ancient Bridge in 
high preservation, I visited an edi¬ 
fice similar in shape to the Temple 
of Minerva Medica at Rome, and 
equally well preserved. It is called 
Tempio della Tossa ; but whether 
because originally consecrated to 
Tussis, the coughing God, or be¬ 
cause it was the sepulchre of the 
Tossie Family, seems uncertain. 
Hence I proceeded, on the an¬ 
cient Via Valeria, to Meccenass 
Villa ; the ruins of which prove 
that it must have been vast and 
magnificent: and the part through 
which the Via Valeria passes, 
is well preserved and very inte¬ 
resting. Near this Villa are cu¬ 
rious rocks consisting of petrifac¬ 
tions ; and opposite to it is the 
site of the Villa of Sallust, 
called, by some persons, that of 


221 

Hoi •ace; but his Villa was ten 
miles distant. 

Having passed the site of the 
temple o f Hercules, to which Me- 
ctenas’s domain extended, I walked 
through the Garden of the Villa 
d'Este, which contains Water- 
Works, called the Girandola, a 
Fountain embellished with a co¬ 
lossal statue of the Tiburtine 
Sibyl, and another Figure repre¬ 
senting Tivoli. The Villa con¬ 
tains Ceilings painted by Zuccari, 
Muziano, <§*<?.; but they have suf¬ 
fered cruelly from neglect. Hence 
I returned to the inn; dined 
there ; and afterward drove back 
to Rome in four hours. 

Persons who wish to see the 
remains of the Claudian Aque¬ 
duct near the Convent of S. Cosi - 
mato, should sleep at Tivoli ; and 
then set out early next morning, 
upon donkeys, or mules, for the 
above-named Convent; which 
stands on a clifi’, overhanging a 
dee]) and narrow valley, through 
which flows a stream that, from 
being considerably obstructed in 
its course, by fragments of rocks 
apparently fallen from the sur¬ 
rounding precipices, is broken into 
beautiful cascades. Here, where 
the Claudian Aqueduct crossed 
the river, one arch remains: and 
some of the subterranean part of 
this Aqueduct, which was carried 
through the centre of several 
mountains, may be seen buried 
under the Convent Garden, and 
as perfect as if just finished ; not 
even the plaster having suffered 
from time. The mountains of S. 
Cosimato are formed of the same 
tartareous deposition with those 
of Tivoli. Horace's Villa , and 
Sabine farm, are three miles dis- 


. (.r) The steps ami path leading to the Grotto of the Sirens are dirty 

and unlit for Ladies. 


ENVIRONS OF ROME—FRASCATI. [Ch. IX. 


222 

tant from the Convent; but so 
little now remains of the Villa 
that its foundations cannot easily 
be traced 1 . 

FRASCATI. 

I hired, at the latter end of 
April, an open carriage with six 
places and four horses, paying 
eight scudi ; and was enabled, by 
setting out early, to accomplish 
this excursion with great ease in 
one day. 

Twelve miles distant from Rome, 
and near the site of the ancient 
Tusculum, stands Frascati ; and 
the most interesting objects in the 
direct road thither, (which is a 
tolerably good one,) are the Se¬ 
pulchres of Genesius Marcianus, 
and Lucius Valerius Corvinus. 

On my way to Frascati 1 vi¬ 
sited Grotto-Ferrata ; which lies 
but little out of the direct road ; 
and whence to Frascati, about 
one mile and a half in distance, 
the drive is delightful. On turn¬ 
ing off for Grotto Ferrata I found 
the road rough at the commence¬ 
ment ; but not dangerous ; and 
after proceeding about a quarter 
of a mile I found it perfectly good. 
Grotto-Ferrata, usually denomi¬ 
nated, the site of Cicero’s Tus- 
culanum , was, in times past, a 
celebrated Convent, founded by 
S. Nilus of the Order of S. Basil, 
and subsequently fortified with 
high walls, and gates of iron, from 
the latter of which its present 
name is derived. The Church 
contains a Chapel consecrated to 
S. Nilus, and adorned, b v Dome- 
nichino, with beautiful Frescos, 
uncommonly well preserved. The 

( t ) Travellers usually pay at La Sibilla, 
at Tivoli, for dinner, per head, seven pauls 
—tea, two pauls—breakfast, two pauls— 
beds, each three pauls — servants each, 


most celebrated of these Frescos 
are, S. Nilus praying for rain— 
Rain descending—S. Nilus meet¬ 
ing the Emperor Otho hi. —(In 
this picture Domenichino has re¬ 
presented himself, clothed in green, 
and holding the bridle of the Em¬ 
peror's horse ; with Guido leaning 
on the horse, and Guercino behind 
Guido.) The demoniac Roy, 
deemed one of the finest pictures 
existing!!! — Saints Nilus and 
Bartolomeo praying to the Ma¬ 
donna—and an Architect shewing 
the plan of the Convent to S. Ni¬ 
lus. The altar-piece is by An¬ 
nibale Caracci—the Salutation, 
and all the other Frescos on the 
walls, and in the cupola, are by 
Domenichino. 

An apartment up stairs con¬ 
tains part of a Frieze, said to have 
been found in Cicero's Villa, and 
representing a Grecian General 
speaking' to an Officer and a Sol¬ 
dier who are bringing a wounded 
Man into his presence. 

From Grotto Ferrata, where my 
carriage waited while I saw the 
Chapel of S. Nilus, <3*c., I drove to 
the Belvedere , at Frascati, a hand¬ 
some Villa, beautifully situated, 
and embellished with waterworks. 
In this Villa, 1 was permitted to 
eat a cold dinner which I had 
brought from Home ; and here 1 
dismissed my carriage, ordering it 
to return for me in four hours. 
After dinner I procured a Cice¬ 
rone, to shew me the way to Tus¬ 
culum ; and under his guidance 
took a delightful, and, generally 
speaking, a shady walk, through 
the Belvedere-domain, to the Villa 
Ruffmella , (supposed, by some an- 

per day, three pauls—and donkeys each, 
three pauls. It is impossible to procure 
good wine, or good water, at either of 
the inns. 


223 


Cli. IX.] ENVIRONS OF ROME—PALESTRINA. 


tiquaries, to have been the site of 
Cicero’s Villa,) thence proceeding 
to Tusculum, where I discovered 
remains of a small Theatre ; a 
small Amphitheatre, quite perfect, 
so far as it has been excavated ; 
(for, owing perhaps to an earth¬ 
quake, the arena is buried in ve¬ 
getable mould;) Reservoirs for 
water : remains of what appears 
to have been the ancient Road 
from the Villa Ruffinella to Tus¬ 
culum ; together with Inscrip¬ 
tions, fyc. fyc. The distance from 
the Belvedere to Tusculum is about 
two miles and a half; the ascent 
continual, but not steep. From 
Tusculum I walked back to the 
Belvedere ; thence proceeding, in 
my carriage, through Frascati to 
Rome u . 

PALESTRINA, 

Palestrina, the ancient Prames- 
te, about twenty-live miles distant 
from Rome, is well worth notice ; 
both on account of its Cyclop',an 
JValls, and the Temple of For¬ 
tune , erected here by Sylla, and 
afterward repaired and embellished 
by Adrian; and of which, con¬ 
siderable remains may be traced, 
though the modern town is built 
on its foundations. 

The road to Palestrina is, ge¬ 
nerally speaking, ancient pave¬ 
ment, remarkably well preserved; 
especially the latter part. Speci¬ 
mens of Cyclopian Walls x present 
themselves j ust within the town of 
Palestrina, and likewise on the 
ascent leading toward the Citadel. 
The Temple of Fortune seems to 

(«) I gave, to the (historic of the Villa- 
Belvedere, live pauls for the use of an 
apartment to dine in ; and two pauls for 
exhibiting the water-works: and to the 
Cicerone who accompanied me to Tuscu¬ 
lum, I gave four pauls. 

(a-) These Walls, composed of smooth 
angular stones, skilfully joined together 


have consisted of two parts ; the 
lower being called Fortuna Pri- 
migenia ; and the higher, Fortuna 
Prcenestina ; and, judging by its 
remains, (the most interesting of 
which may be traced at the Semi- 
nario, near the Cathedral,) it must 
have been very Large and magni¬ 
ficent. Some parts of the Walls, 
belonging to the first and second 
Terrace of this Temple, display 
specimens, quite perfect, of ancient 
Roman stone-work, called Opus in - 
cert urn ; while other parts resemble 
the Etruscan walls of Fiesole; and 
others exhibit specimens of reticu¬ 
lated brick-work. There are three 
Terraces ; and, under the lowest, 
magnificent Reservoirs for water. 
The lower Temple, which stood 
on the middle Terrace, was em¬ 
bellished with a celebrated Mosaic 
Pavement, supposed, by Winckel- 
mann, to represent the arrival of 
Menelaus in Egypt. Ruins of an 
ancient Lighthouse may be dis¬ 
covered on the middle Terrace ; 
and, on the uppermost, is the Pa- 
lazzo-Barberini, whither the Mo¬ 
saic Pavement has been removed, 
and where it may now' be seen. 
On the summit of the hill, above 
the Temple, was the Citadel of 
Prseneste, encompassed by Cyclo¬ 
pian Walls, still in high preserva¬ 
tion, and commanding a very ex¬ 
tensive prospect. In the environs 
of the modern town are remains of 
the Villa of Antoninus Pius , 
(where the Braschi-Antinous was 
found ;) and a picturesque Ruin, 
called the Temple of Vesta, and 
probably erected by Adrian ; as 

without cement, are by some authors attri¬ 
buted to the Pelasgi; but, be this as it may, 
they are evidently the most ancient kind of 
stone-work used for surrounding towns and 
citadels of Italy and Magna Graecia: why 
they are called Cyclopian, seems doubtful; 
perhaps from kvkX&x, to surround. 


224 


ENVIRONS OF ROME—ALBANO. 


its shape, in some parts, resembles 
a known production of his, the 
Temple (near the Colosseo) dedi¬ 
cated to Venus and Rome. 

A pair of strong- horses would 
take a lig-ht calash from Rome to 
Palestrina in about five hours and 
a half; and return in five hours: 
and the usual price, charged by 
Voiturins for going in this man¬ 
ner, is four scudi a day. 

The Inn at Palestrina contains 
four small bed-rooms, with tolera¬ 
bly clean beds ; and likewise fur¬ 
nishes good wine, pigeons, eggs, 
colfee, and milk. The Cicerone 
is very intelligent; and Travellers 
who dislike walking may procure 
donkeys. 

ALBANO. 

The distance from Rome to 
Albano is fourteen miles ; and the 
road, generally speaking, excel- 
lenty. Having already given 
some account of this road, I shall 
now content myself with saying, 
that, on the left, just before en¬ 
tering Albano, I passed what is 
denominated the Tomb of Asca- 
nius ; though supposed, by anti¬ 
quaries, to be that of Clodius. 

Albano, situated between Cas- 
tel-Gandolfo and Arieia, stands on 
the site of Pompey’s Villa, named 
Albanum Pompeii. Remains of 
an Amphitheatre, a Reservoir, 
and a Praetorian Camp, erected, 
perhaps, by Domitian, may be 
traced here: but the object best, 
worth notice in this town is a small 
Museum, belonging to Sig. Gui- 
seppe Carnevali; which consists 
of sepulchral Monuments, found 
under a bed of lava, in the vicinity 
of the ancient Alha-Longa. The 
shape of each of these sepulchral 

(y) The best Inn at Albano, namely, La 
Villa di Londra, furnishes good dinners, 
and tolerable beds, at reasonable prices. 


[Ch. IX. 

Monuments is that of a vase ; and 
within each of the Vases was found 
a small cinerary Urn of terra¬ 
cotta, containing ashes and bones, 
and made (as it is conjectured) in 
the precise shape of the huts of the 
aboriginal inhabitants of the spot 2 . 
Each cinerary Urn exhibits un¬ 
known characters ; and these se¬ 
pulchral Monuments likewise have 
Doors with curious Fastenings. 
The cinerary Urn was placed in 
the centre of each Monument; and 
encircled with small terra-cotta 
Vessels (one to hold the sop for 
Cerberus, others for the purifying 
water, wine, oil, bread, incense, 
&)‘C .;) a Lamp, like those of pot¬ 
tery used now in cottages ; a Stile 
passed through aCanceller; Knives, 
and a Lance. After seeing this 
Museum, Travellers who have 
three hours to spare should pro¬ 
ceed, through a beautiful and 
shady Path, to the hill which com¬ 
mands the Lago-Castello, or Lake 
of Albano ; which is the crater of 
an extinct volcano, nearly six miles 
in circumference ; and famous for 
particularly large and fine cels. 
Castel-Gandolfo stands on the top 
of the hill; and a beautiful Walk 
leads down to the Lake, where, in 
the water, remains may be seen of 
the ancient Alha-Longa. Here, 
likewise, is a subterraneous Canal, 
called the Emissario, one of the 
most extraordinary works of the 
ancient Romans ; and said to have 
been made during the siege of Vcii, 
in obedience to the Delphic Ora¬ 
cle. It measures about one mile 
and a half in length, and appears 
quite perfect. Another path, to 
the left ot Castel-Gandolfo, leads 
back to Albano ; and the Ilexes 
which shade this walk are some of 

(z) The Urns are shaped by hand, instead 
of being cast in a mould, like Grecian 
vases. 


225 


Ch. X.] ENVIRONS OF ROME—ALBANO. 


the largest in Italy a . The Garden 
of the Villa-Barbcrini, at Castel- 
Gandolfo, comprises the Ruins of 
Domitian's Villa; and on the out¬ 
side of the Gate of Alhano, lead¬ 
ing to Aricia, is an ancient Tomb , 
on the left, called that of the Cu- 
riatii; though there does not seem 
to be any ground for this assertion b . 

The air, both at Albano and 
Aricia, (one mile distant,) is less 
oppressive during summer, though 
perhaps not more salubrious, than 
that of Rome ; and the country is 
beautiful: private lodging-houses 
may be procured at each place ; 
and a public carriage goes three 
times a week, during summer, from 
Rome to Albano ; the fare, for 
going, being five pauls, and the 
same for returning. 

I will now close this Chapter 
with what seems to me the pre¬ 
sent character of the Romans. 

This people, taken collectively, 
neither possess the mildness of the 
Tuscans, nor the good-humoured 
buffoonery of the Neapolitans. 
The nobility seldom trouble them¬ 
selves to attain deep erudition; 
but are polite and very kind to 
Foreigners. Gentlemen belong¬ 
ing to the Church and Law are 
usually well-informed: it is, how¬ 
ever, remarkable, that the most 
learned of these are not, gene¬ 
rally speaking, Romans by birth. 

(a) Persons who do not choose to walk, 
may hire a donkey for three pauls, includ¬ 
ing the buona-mano of the man who leads 
it. The Albano-Cicei one expects four or 
five pauls; and the Cicerone at the Eniis- 
iario two, if he find lights. 

( b) According to seise opinions, the py- 


Tradesmen of the first class sel¬ 
dom impose on foreigners; but 
the populace are frequently prone 
to exaction, passionate, and some¬ 
times revengeful: they likewise re¬ 
tain much of their former haughty 
character; and the inhabitants 
of Trastevere, said to descend 
from the ancient Romans, are not 
only brave to ferocity, but so proud 
of their ancestors, that nothing can 
induce them to match with a per¬ 
son who does not boast the same 
origin. 

A gentleman told me, he lodged 
in the house of one of these Tras- 
teverini, a barber by trade, and 
wretchedly poor, when his daugh¬ 
ter was addressed by a wealthy 
and respectable German: but, not¬ 
withstanding these advantages, the 
lover received a rude and positive 
refusal from the mother of the girl. 
My acquaintance, surprised at this 
behaviour, asked the mother, why 
she acted so imprudently ?—“Your 
daughter (continued he,) is wholly 
unprovided for ; surely, then, you 
ought to rejoice in an opportunity 
of uniting her to a rich and worthy 
man.” “ Rejoice in uniting her 
to a Foreigner—a Barbarian!” 
(exclaimed the woman.) “ No:— 
and were my daughter capable of 
cherishing so disgraceful an idea, 
I should not scruple to plunge a 
dagger into her heart.” 

ratnids upon the top of the monument in 
question are allusive to Egypt; and indicate 
that the edifice was erected in honour of 
Pompey. The Cumtii had monuments 
erected to their memory near the Fossae 
Clelite, where they fell. 


Q 



CHAPTER X. 

NAPLES, 


Country between Rome and Naples—Genzano—Velletri—Cora—Pontine Marshes—Ter- 
racina—Fondi—Itri—Cenotaph of Cicero—Mola—Gaeta—Minturnum—Garigliano— - 
S. Agata—Capua—Naples—Situation of that city—Bay—Ancient Light-houses—Size 
and population of Naples—Villa-Reale—Studii Publici—Quadrangle—Gallery of an¬ 
cient Sculpture—Apartments up-stairs—Palazzo-Reale—Chicsa di S.Ferdinando—-Castel 
Nuovo—Castello dell Uovo—Cliiesa di S. Maria del Parto—di S. Brigida—di S. Gio¬ 
vanni de’ Fiorentini—di l’Incoronata—della Piet& de’ Torchini—di S. Maria Nuova 
di Monte-Oliveto—di Gesh Nuovo—di S. Cliiara—di S. Giovanni Maggiore—del Sal¬ 
vatore—di S. Domenico Maggiore—dello Spirito Santo—di S. Maria della Sanita—di 
S. Giovanni a Carbonara—de’ S. S. Apostoli—Arcivescovado—Liquefaction of the blood 
of S. Gennaro—Chiesa di S. Filippo Neri—di S. Paolo Maggiore—di S. Maria Mag¬ 
giore—di S. Pietro a Majella—Cappella di S. Severo—Chiesa di S. M. Annunziata—di S. 
Maria del Carmine—di S. Martino de’ Certosini’—Castello diS. Elmo—Palazzo-Berio— 
Albergo de’ Poveri—Theatres—Promenades—Market built by the French—Monument 
to the memory of Eustace—Water—Climate—Society—Hotels, and Lodging-houses— 
Character of the Neapolitans—List of Objects best worth notice, as they lie contiguous 
to each other. 


Before I enter upon a descrip¬ 
tion of Naples, I will give a short 
account of the country through 
which we passed, on our way thi¬ 
ther. 

The road to Albano has been 
already described; I shall there¬ 
fore say nothing- on this subject; 
but merely observe that Travellers, 
going to Naples, might easily see 
every thing worth notice at Albano, 
by making a stop of three hours 
and a half at the last-named town, 
which they must necessarily pass 
through on their way. 

Ariria, one mile distant from 
Albano (as has been already men¬ 
tioned,) is beautifully situated on 
the Via Appia; and contains a 
handsome Church. Four miles 
hence is Genzano, pleasantly 
placed near the Lake of Nemi, in 
a country which produces good 
wine. The Festival of Flora, 
which takes place during the month 

(c) The Albergo Reale. 

\d) Wholesome water cannot be procured 
between Velletri and Terracina; and there¬ 


of June, at Genzano, merits no¬ 
tice ; the ground, at this festival, 
being covered, for a considerable 
extent, with a beautiful mosaic 
work of flowers ; many of which 
are gathered several weeks be¬ 
fore ; and yet so exquisitely pre¬ 
served as to appear unfaded. In 
the neighbourhood of Genzano is 
the site of the ancient Lavininm; 
and not far distant, on the sea¬ 
shore, lies Pratica, the ancient 
Laurentum , where /Eneas is said 
to have landed, when he came to 
Italy. Six miles from Genzano is 
Velletri, once a considerable town 
belonging to the Volsci, and ce¬ 
lebrated for being the country of 
Augustus, whose family resided 
here ; though it is supposed that 
he was born at Rome. The 
Palazzo-Lancellotti at Velletri 
is now converted into an Inn c , 
which contains thirty beds, and 
particularly fine water d . The 

fore Travellers usually take a supply from 
the former town. 


257 


Ch. X.] PONTINE MARSHES—TERRACINA. 


situation of this Palazzo is de¬ 
lightful ; and its marble stair¬ 
case merits notice ; but the Post- 
house is a much more comfortable 
Inn. Nine miles hence, though not 
in the high road, lies Cora, an 
ancient town of Latium, which 
contains ruins of two Tenpples, 
the one consecrated to Hercules, 
the other to Castor and Pollux : 
and persons who have leisure 
would do well to visit them. From 
Velletri to Torre de' tre Ponti, 
on the Pontine Marshes, the coun¬ 
try is pretty ; and on a height, not 
very distant from the road, stands 
Pipcrno, anciently Privernum, a 
Volscian city*. 

Between Tre Ponti (anciently 
Tripontium ,) and Terracina lie 
the Pontine Marshes, ( Palus 
Pomptina,) computed to be about 
twenty-four miles in length, and 
varying from six to twelve miles 
in breadth. Appius Claudius seems 
to have been the first person who 
undertook to drain them : Cethe- 
gus and Caesar continued the 
work; which, during the middle 
ages, was repaired by Cecilius 
Decius, at the command of Theo- 
doric. Boniface vm. was the 
first Pope who began to drain 
these noxious swamps. Martin v., 
before his accession to the ponti¬ 
fical Chair, was employed to carry 
on the business; and succeeded 
wonderfully, by making a Canal, 
called Rio-Martino. The Princes 
of the House of Medicis, and, 
after them, Sixtus v., made new 
Canals: succeeding Popes fol¬ 
lowed a similar plan; till, at length, 
Pius vi. nearly accomplished this 
benevolent work; forming on the 

(e) There is a post-road from Velletri to 
Sermonetta (the spot, according to sonic 
opinions, called by S. Paul, 'i res 7'aOer- 
iia), Case-Nuove, Pipcrno, Maruti, and 
Terracina. 

(/) Tre Ponti is a very bad inn; where, 


foundations of the Via Appia, 
which were long hidden under 
water, a road justly esteemed one 
of the best in Europe ; and drain¬ 
ing the swamps so judiciously as 
to render them capable of being 
cultivated. French Engineers pur¬ 
sued the same wise measures ; and 
Pius vii. is at length putting the 
finishing stroke to this Herculean 
labour; which has so essentially 
purified a tract of country, whose 
gales, in former times, were fraught 
with death, that but little danger 
is to he apprehended from travel¬ 
ling through it now, except during 
the prevalence of the dog-star. 

I would, nevertheless, advise 
Travellers in general, arid parti¬ 
cularly Invalids, neither to pass 
the Pontine Marshes with an 
empty stomach, nor till after the 
sun has been up an hour. The 
dew which immediately precedes 
sunset should likewise be avoided; 
and the inclination to sleep, which 
almost every Traveller feels while 
breathing this air, should be stre¬ 
nuously resisted. 

At one of the western extre¬ 
mities of the Pontine Marshes is 
the mouth of the river Astura; 
and, beyond that, Capo d'Anzio, 
the ancient Antium: while at the 
other western extremity rises 
Monte Circello, the Headland of 
Circaeum, immortalized by Homer. 
Beyond the Marshes, in a beau¬ 
tiful situation, stands Terracina , 
the approach to which is particu¬ 
larly fine : it was originally built 
by the Volsci; and called by them 
Anxur; but the Greeks after¬ 
ward called it Traxina; whence 
comes the modern name of Tcr- 

however, it might be possible to dine bet¬ 
ter, perhaps, than at Mesa, the ancient 
Station Ad Medias, or half-way house; 
and where, on each side of the entrance to 
the inn, if such it may be called, is an an¬ 
cient Military. 

Q 2 


228 


TERRACINA—FONDI, $c. 


racina. Here aro considerable 
remains of antiquity ; and persons 
who have two leisure hours should 
inquire for the Cicerone, who is 
always in attendance at the Inn, 
and accompanied by him visit the 
Cathedral, supposed to have been 
built on, or near, the site of a 
Temple dedicated to Apollo. The 
portico of this Church contains a 
Sarcophagus with an Inscription 
in honour of Theodoric, first King 
of Italy ; and the Baldacchino is 
supported by four Corinthian Co¬ 
lumns of Parian marble, taken 
from the Temple of Apollo; con¬ 
siderable remains of which may 
still be traced, near the Cathedral. 
On the brow of a high hill above 
the Cathedral are ruins called by 
some persons Theodoric's Pa¬ 
lace, and by others, who judge 
from Virgil’s description, the 
Temple of Jupiter Anxur: but, 
be this as it may, the only ves¬ 
tiges discernible now, are the 
subterranean part, with a low 
square building above its. The 
temple of Jupiter Anxur was 
erected by order of the Consul 
Postlmmius, after the designs of 
Vitruvius Pollio. On the way to 
this spot stand the ancient JFalls 
of Anxur, remains of Reser¬ 
voirs, Tombs, &c.; and here like¬ 
wise is a magnificent view of 
Monte Circello, and the Bay of 
Naples. The Inn at Tcrracina h 
stands beyond the town, and near 
the ancient Port, made by Antoni¬ 
nus Pius ; which, though now 
choked up with mud, is well worth 
notice. An endless variety of 
beautiful flowers and shrubs adorn 
the rocks beyond Terracina ; be- 

( g ) Antiquaries assert, that the ruins of 
Theodoric’s palace, and the Temple of Ju¬ 
piter Anxur, may both be traced on this 
height above Terracina. 

(/;) This inn may be called good, in point 


[Ch. X- 

tween which town and a building 
called Torre de* Confini, the road 
passes near a pestiferous Lake. 
Torre de' Confini divides the patri¬ 
mony of S. Peter from the Kingdom 
of Naples ; and five miles beyond 
the entrance to the Neapolitan 
territories is Fondi, a small town 
on the Via Appia, which consti¬ 
tutes its principal street: it once 
belonged to the Aurunci, a people 
of Latium ; and, in the year 
1534, suffered cruelly in conse¬ 
quence of an attempt made, one 
night, by Hariaden Barbarossa 
to seize the beautiful Julia Gon- 
zaga, Countess of Fondi, with a 
view of presenting her to the 
Grand Signior. Julia, however, 
being roused from sleep by the 
clamours of her people at the ap¬ 
proach of the Turks, sprang from 
her bed, leaped out of window, 
and escaped to the neighbouring 
mountains: while Barbarossa, be¬ 
ing thus disappointed of his prize, 
revenged himself by pillaging and 
destroying the town, and carry¬ 
ing many of its inhabitants into 
slavery. Fondi exhibits consider¬ 
able remains of Cyclopian walls. 
'The air here is deemed unwhole¬ 
some, owing to the above named 
Lake. Eight miles from Fondi 
stands Itri, a large village also built 
on the Via Appia, in a country 
abounding with vines, figs, andlen- 
tisks,which last produce gum-mas¬ 
tic. Here are remains of a Cyclo¬ 
pian tower. On the right, about 
a quarter of a mile from Mola, is 
an ancient edifice, in good pre¬ 
servation, supposed to be the Ce¬ 
notaph of Cicero, placed on the 
spot where he was murdered, 

of size ami accommodations ; but when its 
master is absent, which frequently occurs 
during the prevalence of MaL' aria, the 
waiters are uncivil and imposing. 


Cl]. X.] MOLA—GAETA—MINTURNUM—CAPUA. 229 


while endeavouring to escape from 
his enemies. Mola, the ancient 
Formice, eight miles from Itri, is 
approached by a road command¬ 
ing - beautiful scenery ; and con¬ 
tains an inn, called La Villa <li 
Cicerone, which is large, and 
charmingly situated* 1 ; and exhi¬ 
bits in its Garden Ruins of what 
is denominated Villa-Formia- 
num; but probably that Villa 
was further removed from the sea, 
and near the Cenotaph of Cicero. 
Mola commands a tine view of 
Gaeta, five miles distant, and, 
according to tradition, founded 
by /Eneas in honour of his Nurse, 
Caieta. Persons who have lei¬ 
sure would do well to employ a 
few hours in seeing this town ; 
which contains ten thousands in¬ 
habitants, and some antiquities 
that merit notice. Its Port was 
either constructed, or repaired, 
by Antoninus Pius: and the Bap¬ 
tistery of its Cathedral is adorned 
with a basso-relievo bearing the 
name of Salpion, an Athenian 
sculptor, and representing Ino, 
consort of Athamas, King of 
Thebes, sitting on a rock and 
hiding one of her Children in her 
bosom, to save it from its Fa¬ 
ther’s fury. Here likewise on the 
summit of the hill, above the 
town, is a building called Torre 
d'Orlando, and supposed to be 
the Mausoleum ofMunatius Plan- 
cus, the Founder of Lyons. But 
to return to the high road. Six 
miles from Mola, are consider¬ 
able remains of an Aqueduct, 

(t) There are two other inns at Mola, 
The Post-house, and The Alhcrgo Beale ; 
both of which, though inferior to the Ci¬ 
cerone with respect to situation, are, in 
accommodations, superior. 

( k ) In order to obtain a good view of thin 
Theatre, it is necessary to get out of your 
carriage, and walk round to the back part 
of the building. 

( l) The whole of what is now denomi* 


a Theatre, &c. k ; which probably 
belonged to the ancient town of 
Minturnum: and close to these 
ruins flows the Garigliano, an¬ 
ciently the Liris ; and, in former 
times, the boundary of Latium ; 
which is now called the Campagna 
di Roma 1 . A marsh in this neigh¬ 
bourhood was the spot to which 
Marius fled, when he fell into 
the power of the Magistrates of 
Minturnum. Crossing the Ga¬ 
rigliano on a bridge of boats, we 
proceeded to S. Agata; where 
the Inn, though not large, is ren¬ 
dered comfortable by the civility 
of its master. S. Agata is plea¬ 
santly situated near Sessa, a small 
town supposed to be the ancient 
Suessa Auruncorurn, to which 
there is a beautiful Walk, over a 
magnificent Bridge, from the inn 
at S. Agata. The Via Appia 
passed through Suessa, where 
there are other antiquities. The 
road from S. Agata to Capua, 
sixteen miles distant, traverses 
rich vineyards and corn-fields. 
The approach to Capua is hand¬ 
some ; but the modern town, built 
on the banks of the Volturno, 
anciently Volturnns, and .about 
one mile and a half distant from 
the Ruins called ancient Capua, 
is, judgingby the report of Strabo 
and Fiorus m , very unlike the lat¬ 
ter ; as, instead of being one of 
the most splendid cities of Eu¬ 
rope, it is ill-built, dirty, and de¬ 
void of any object particularly 
worth notice. The road from Ca¬ 
pua to Naples, a distance of fif- 

nated Italy, between the Liris and the ex¬ 
tremity of Calabria, appears to have been, 
during the reign of Nero, called Magna 
Gracia, 

(m) Thesse Authors describe Capua as 
particularly magnificent. Strabo says, it 
derived its name from Caput, because 
it was one of the capitals of the world; 
and Fiorus ranks it with_ Rome and Car¬ 
thage. 


230 


NAPLES. 


teen miles, is one continued gar¬ 
den, but exhibits no view of the 
bay, and scarce any of the city n . 

The Via Appia is kept in ex¬ 
cellent condition throughout the 
Ecclesiastical territories: but, near 
S. Agata, and within a few miles 
of Capua, proper care has not 
lately been taken to replace loose 
stones. Between Capuaand Naples 
the road is excellent. 

Naples, in Italian Napoli, seems, 
at first sight, to be universally 
considered as the most captivating 
city of Italy; owing to its im¬ 
mense number of inhabitants, 
magnificent quay, and beautiful 
situation: this first impression, 
however, sometimes wears off; 
while the bad taste which per¬ 
vades almost every building, in¬ 
duces scientific Travellers to pre¬ 
fer Home, even in her present 
mutilated state, to all the gaiety of 
Naples. This latter city is so 
ancient that it seems scarce pos¬ 
sible to pierce through the clouds 
of obscurity which envelop its 
origin: Tradition, however, re¬ 
ports that it was founded by an 
Argonaut, thirteen hundred years 
before the Christian aera ; and af¬ 
terward peopled and enriched by 
Greek colonies from Rhodes, 
Athens, and Chalcis. It anciently 
bore the name of Parthenope; 
an appellation bestowed by the 
Phoenicians, in consequence of its 
charming situation. Near Par¬ 
thenope stood another city, called 
Paleo polls, from being so old that 
its origin was ascribed to Her¬ 
cules : and when Parthenope was 
destroyed by her jealous neigh- 

(n) Between Capua and Naples, in the 
town of A versa, there is an excellent Lu¬ 
natic Asylum, called The Muddalena: this 
edifice, Whicli is spacious and elegantly 
clean, has belonging to it a large garden 
and a handsome church : and that persons 
■who are sent to this Asylum may be pleased 
with its outward appearance, the grates of 


[Ch. x. 

hours, the people of Cumte, and 
afterward rebuilt in obedience to 
an oracle, the new city was called 
Neapolis, to distinguish it from 
the old one, called Paleopolis, till, 
at length, both were joined toge¬ 
ther by Augustus. Naples, how¬ 
ever, still retained her Grecian 
manners, customs, and language ; 
and even to the present day re¬ 
tains them, in several parts of her 
territories. This city is built on 
the acclivity of a tufo mountain, 
at the extremity of a Bay nearly 
thirty miles in diameter (called, 
by the ancients. Crater Sinus,) 
and sheltered on the right by the 
Promontory of Miseno, and on 
the left by that of Sorrento: while 
the lofty island of Capri, rising in 
its centre, acts like an enormous 
Mole to break the force of its 
waves. Nothing can be more 
magnificent than the city of Na¬ 
ples when viewed from this bay, 
whence all its buildings present 
themselves to view, rising amplii- 
theatrically, till crowned by the 
sombre Castle of S. Elmo. 
Stretching to the Promontory of 
Sorrento, on one side, lie Portici, 
Resina, Torre del Greco, Torre 
del Aimunziata, Vesuvius, Pom¬ 
peii, Castel-a-mare, and Vico; and 
extending to the Promontory of 
Miseno, on the other, Pozzuoli, 
Nisida, and Baia. The bay of 
Naples was once much larger than 
it is at present; as appears from 
the situation of two ancient Light¬ 
houses ; both of which now, are 
actually in the heart of the city. 
Ruins of the most ancient may 
be seen behind the church of 

every window arc shaped and painted to 
represent flower-pots filled with flowers. 
The attendance here is particularly good; 
and the utmost gentleness and indulgence 
are practised toward the patients; each of 
whom pays fifteen ducats per month; for 
which sum they live comfortably. The Mad- 
datena accommodates live hundred patients. 


NAPLES. 


231 


Ch. X.] 

S. Onofrio de' Vecchi; the other 
stood on the site of Gesu-Nuovo. 
Naples is nine miles in circumfer¬ 
ence ; and contains nearly three 
hundred and eighty-two thousand 
inhabitants: but the only parts 
of this city calculated to ar¬ 
rest the attention of Foreigners 
are the Strada-Toledo, the Largo 
del Palazzo, and the C’hiaja, which 
comprehends a public Garden, 
called the Villa Reale, and consi¬ 
derably more than half a mile in 
length; extending, on the margin 
of the bay, from the Chiatamone 
toward the Grotto of Posolipo. 
This garden is adorned with lux¬ 
uriant trees, shrubs, flowers, and 
modern statues ; and in its centre 
stands the celebrated antique 
Group, called II Toro Faruese; 
which was originally brought from 
Rhodes to Rome, and removed 
thence to Naples: it represents 
Amphion and Zethus, the Sons of 
Lycus, King of Thebes, tying 
Di rce by the hair of her head to 
the horns of a Bull; and is sup¬ 
posed to have been formed from 
one solid block of marble, by 
Apollonius and Tauriscus, about 
two hundred years before the 
Christian rera. This group was 
found, cruelly mutilated, in Cara- 
cafla’s Baths, and restored by 
Battista Bianclu of Milan. The 
head of the bull, and the upper 
part of the figure of Dirce, are 
modern: the trunks alone of the 
figures of Amphion and Zethus 
(one leg excepted) are antique: 
but the statues of Antiopc, and 
the young man seated, are nearly 
in their original state 0 . 

Among other objects of interest 
at Naples are the following. 


Studii Publici. This Univer¬ 
sity was erected by the Viceroy 
Ferdinando Ruiz de Castro, Count 
de Lemos, according to the de¬ 
signs of M. G. Fontana,* and 
opened in 1616, by Don Pedro de 
Castro, son and successor to the 
Count. During 1790, Ferdinando 
i. removed the University to the 
Convent of Gesu Vecchio; and 
converted the edifice built by the 
Count de Lemos, into a royal 
Museum ; which is now enriched 
with the antiquities found at Min- 
turnum, ancient Capua, Hercula¬ 
neum, Pompeii, Stabise, Nuceria, 
and Ptestum ; together with the 
collection of paintings that once 
adorned the Palace of Capo di 
Monte: and this Museum, to 
which his Neapolitan Majesty has 
given the name of Borbonico , 
may now be considered as the 
finest in Europe, with respect to 
Grecian antiquities. 

The Quadrangle contains a 
colossal statue of Alexander Se- 
verus—ditto of Flora—ditto of 
the Genius of Rome—and ditto of 
Urania: and the Staircase is 
adorned with a Lion in Carrara 
marble, and two statues in Greek 
marble, taken from Herculaneum. 
Surrounding the Quadrangle are 
the Academies of Sculpture, 
Painting, and Architecture, and 
the apartments appropriated to 
antique Statues, <§-c. 

First division of the Gallery 
of ancient Sculpture. No. 14, a 
' lustral Basin from Herculaneum 
—15, bust of Ptolemy-Sotcr—16, 
a Warrior seated—18, a Gladiator! 
—20, equestrian statue of a Ro¬ 
man Warrior—22, a Sportsman 
—24, Pyrrhus, from Herculaneum 


(o) According to some opinions Amphion of Antiope, their mother, to seize the bull, 
and Zethus were represented by the*Rho- and set i)irce free. _ 

diun artists, as endeavouring, by command 


232 


NAPLES. 


—26, group of two Mon cutting 
up a Pig—27, bust of a Female— 
2S, an Amazon on horseback— 
30, a Avounded Gladiator!—32, a 
Wrestler, from Herculaneum—34, 
a Wrestler, restored as a Gladi¬ 
ator !!—35, a Gladiator—36, an¬ 
other Wrestler, restored as a Gla¬ 
diator—37, a Gladiator!—38, bust 
of Gallienus !—39, Jove, in terra¬ 
cotta, from Pompeii!—42, a young 
Roman Lady, from Herculaneum 
—44, Marcus Nonius Balbus, 
Proconsul and Patron of Hercu¬ 
laneum—45, a dead Amazon—47, 
a Daughter of M. N. Balbus, from 
Herculaneum!—49, the Mother 
of Balbus, from Herculaneum— 
52, another of the Balbi-family! 
—and 54, M. N. Balbus, both 
from Herculaneum—56, a Bust! 
—57, a young Lady, probably one 
of the Balbi-family, from Hercu¬ 
laneum—58, bust of a Philoso¬ 
pher—59, Juno, in terra-cotta, 
from Pompeii! 

Second division o f the Gallery. 

62, equestrian statue of Marcus 
Nonius Balbus, jun., in Greek 
marble, from Herculaneum !!!!— 

63, ditto of Marcus Nonius Bal¬ 
bus, sen., likewise taken from 
Herculaneum ; but, being found 
in a mutilated state, it has been 
restored!!!—67, group of Apollo 
with a Swan!!—6S, small statue 
of Jupiter-Serapis, found in his 
temple at Pozzuoli!—70, group 
of Ganymedcs and the Eagle !—■ 
77, bust of the Indian Bacchus— 
79, ditto, from Herculaneum—81, 
small statue of a Priestess, from 
Herculaneum—82, Minerva—83, 
small statue of a Priestess of Diana, 
from Herculaneum—84, bust of 
Minerva!—S6, Ceres—87, bust of 

(p) Agrippina seems to be represented at 
the moment when told, that her unnatural 
son dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic, 
deep despair, expressed throughout the 


[Ch. X. 

Minerva, from Herculaneum—92, 
Apollino,from ditto—94, sinallsta- 
tue of iEsculapius—96, group of 
Bacchus and Cupid!!—97, the cele¬ 
brated colossal Hercules of Glycon, 
found at Rome, in Caracalla’s 
Baths, and deemed one of the finest 
statues extant; it represents Her¬ 
cules previous to his deification!!!! 
—98, group of Venus victorious 
and Cupid, from ancient Capua!— 
99, bust of Cybele, from Hercula¬ 
neum—100, Juno—101, bust of 
Minerva,from Herculaneum—102, 
Minerva, a fine Etruscan work, 
from Herculaneum!!—103, group 
of Faunus and the Infant Bac¬ 
chus !!—107, bust of the Indian 
Bacchus—109, bustof Jove—110, 
Diana-Lucifera—118, Minerva!! 
—120, Bacchus—122, Euterpe. 

Third division o f the Gallery. 

123, a lustral Basin, found in 
the Temple of Isis, at Pompeii!— 

124, Agrippina, the mother of Ne¬ 
ro, seated p !!!—125, another lus¬ 
tral Basin, found in the Temple of 
Isis, at Pompeii!—127, bust of 
Ncrva—128, ditto of Antoninus 
Pius—130, Trajan, sen.—131, 
bust of Septimius Severus—132, 
Antonio the younger—133, bust 
ot Galba—134, colossal bust of 
Titus!—13S, Trajan’s Sister— 
139 bust of Tiberius—142, colos¬ 
sal bust of Antoninus Pius!— 
141, Lucilla—148,Tiberius—149, 
a Bust!—150, bust of Caracalla 
*—151, Tiberius—153, colossal 
statue of Claudius seated, from 
Herculaneum!—155, Trajan, from 
Minturnum !! —156, bust of Lu¬ 
cius Verus—157, Statue of ditto! 

•—159, Caiigula, from Minturnum! 
—161, a magnificent porphyry 
Basin, supposed to have been usctl 

whole of this charming statue, proves that 
Sculpture, when carried to its utmost 
height of excellence, cau move the passions 
even more than does the finest poetry. 


NAPLES. 


233 


Ch. X.] 

as the lustral Vase in a Temple, 
dedicated to iEsculapius— 162, 
colossal bust of Caesar!— 163, sta¬ 
tue of ditto— 164, bust of Marcus 
Aurelius— 165, Statue of ditto!— 
166, bust of Adrian— 167, Lucius 
Verus !— 169, colossal statue of 
Augustus, seated, from Hercula¬ 
neum ! —170, bust of Caracalla!— 
172, bust of Adrian ! 

The open Court, adjoining to 
the Gallery of ancient Sculpture, 
contains various Antiquities ; a- 
mong which are several statues, 
found in Herculaneum ; Corn- 
mills of lava, which were brought 
from Pompeii ; a Machine for 
bruising olives, in order to make 
oil, (also of lava, and brought from 
Pompeii,) together with Diotjje of 
creta-cotta and terra-cotta. 

Hall of Flora. 209, colossal 
statue of Flora, found in Oara- 
calla’s Baths at Rome !!!! (Ac¬ 
cording to some opinions this chef- 
d'oeuvre of the Grecian chisel docs 
not represent Flora, but Hope, or 
one of the Muses.) — 201, the 
Torso Farnese, attributed to Phi¬ 
dias, and supposed to have repre¬ 
sented Bacchus!!!—202, a Basso- 
rilievo representing Bacchus in¬ 
toxicated!—203, Fragment, from 
ancient Capua, supposed to have 
been a Psyche ; and attributed to 
Praxiteles !!!—206, a Basso-ri- 
licvo representing Orpheus, Eu- 
rydice, and Mercury ; and sup¬ 
posed to be very ancient Grecian 
sculpture—207, a Basso-rilievo 
from Herculaneum!—208, Bassi- 
-rilievi, one of which represents 
Scylla, the famous Promontory of 
Calabria—209, Torso of a Boy!— 
210, a Basso-rilievo representing 
Helen, Venus, Cupid, Paris, fyc.f 

Hall of Apollo. 212, a colossal 
porphyry statue of Apollo in his 
theatrical dress!— 214, Isis — 218, 
a Phrygian Slave — 222, Apollo — 


225, a Phrygian Slave—22S, a 
Goat, in rosso antico, from Pom¬ 
peii—229, bust of Marcus Aure¬ 
lius!—230, Ceres—231, bust of 
Annius Verus—235, Diana of 
Ephesus, in oriental .alabaster 
and bronze!—238, a small Egyp¬ 
tian statue of Isis in basalt, from 
Pompeii—239, and 240, Basin 
of bigio, with its Stand, from 
Pompeii —■ 213, an Egyptian 
Priest, in basalt!—247, and 248, 
another Basin, with its Stand, 
from Pompeii—251, bust of L. 
Junius Brutus, from Hercula¬ 
neum—252, small statue of Me¬ 
leager, in rosso antico! 

Hall of the Muses. 256, a large 
and beautiful Vase of Greek marble, 
adorned with bassi-rilievi relative 
to the education of Bacchus, and 
according to the inscription it 
bears, executed by Salpion, an 
Athenian sculptor — 260, Clio, 
from Herculaneum—261, small 
statue in terra-cotta, representing 
an Actor masked, and dressed for 
the stage, from Pompeii !—262, 
Terpischore, from Herculaneum! 

•— 263, Mnemosyne,from ditto!—■ 
264, Apollo seated— 265, Miner¬ 
va !— 266, Melpomene, from Her¬ 
culaneum !— 237, small statue in 
terra-cotta of an Actress, masked 
and dressed for the stage, from 
Pompeii!— 268, Erato, from Her¬ 
culaneum— 273, Urania, from 
ditto!— 275, basso-rilievo, repre¬ 
senting seven female Figures, 
from Herculaneum— 276, Caliope! 
•— 277, Euterpe!—and 281, Tha¬ 
lia ; all three from Herculaneum-—- 
2S2, a small statue of Apollo, 
from Pompeii! — 283, Relievo, 
representing four Figures !! —• 
284, Polyhymnia! 

Hall of the Venuses. 287, 
Adonis!—2S8, Venus, attributed 
to Praxiteles, and called “ Vcnere 
Callipiga the rival of the Venus 


234 


NAPLES. 


[Ch. X. 


de’ Medici: there is, however, an 
unpleasant expression in the coun¬ 
tenance of the former, from which 
the latter is exempt!!! —2S9, 
statue called “ Venere geni- 
trice //”—295, Cupid, supposed 
to be an ancient copy of the cele¬ 
brated Cupid of Praxiteles—295, 
Statue ealled “ Venere accovac- 
ciata /”—299, the marine Venus ! 
—304, a small statue of Venus 
seated, from Pompeii!—307, Bac¬ 
chus, in the character of an Her¬ 
maphrodite ! 

flail o f Herc ules. 311, a Her- 
ma, from Herculaneum — 312, 
henna of Euripides, from ditto— 
314, bust of Marius-—31S, Ju- 
piter-Stator seated, from Cuma! 
—323, bust of Marcus Brutus— 

324, henna representing Homer— 

325, henna of Socrates ! 

Hall of Atlas. 323, Atlas sup¬ 
porting the celestial globe—327, 
and32S, lustral Basins, from Pom¬ 
peii!—331, bust of Antisthenes! 

■—332, Homer, from Herculaneum 
•—333, bust of Esehines, from 
ditto!—334, bust of Periander, 
from ditto!—335, bust of Socrates 
—33 G, bust of Euripides—337, 
bust of Lycurgus— 338, Sylla, 
from Herculaneum—340, bust of 
Solon—342, bust of Zeno, from 
Herculaneum—343, bust of Ana¬ 
creon—344, a Philosopher, from 
Herculaneum !! — 345, bust of 
Demosthenes, from ditto—350, 
bust of Zeno—351, statue sup¬ 
posed to represent Niobe—352, 
bust of Herodotus—353, bust of 
Lysias — 354, same subject! — 
355, bust of Euripides—355, bust 
of Sophocles—357, small statue 
of Cicero, from Herculaneum— 
358, bust of Carncades ! — 359, 
bust of Plato, from Herculaneum— 
350, bust of Posidonius! !—363, 
Aristides, found in Herculaneum, 
and deemed one of the choicest 


master-pieces of the Grecian chi¬ 
sel !!!!—354, bust of Socrates, 
from Herculaneum. 

Hall o f Antinous. 367, Anti- 
nous !—368, Vase, from Hercu¬ 
laneum—370, and 371, Cande¬ 
labra—372, herma of Herodotus 
and Thucydides — 373, a large 
Vase—377, a Consul, from Pom¬ 
peii—37S, bust of a Vestal!— 
381, a Bust!—3S2, bust supposed 
to represent the Indian Bacchus ! 
—383, bust of Seneca—385, bust 
of Cicero, from Herculaneum— 
336, statue of Plenty, from Pom¬ 
peii—3S7, bust of Claudius Mar- 
cellus—3SS, bust of Juba—3S9, 
bust of a laughing Faun—391, 
ditto!—392, bust of a Philosopher! 
393, bust of Vespasian—394, co¬ 
lossal bust of a young Hercules— 
399, ditto of Alexander ! —400, 
group of Electra and Orestes, from 
Herculaneum—401,colossal bust of 
Juno!—405, ditto!—412, bust of 
L.C.Lcntulus—413,bust of Agrip¬ 
pina the elder—415, bust of a Fe ¬ 
male—417, bust, supposed to re¬ 
present Terence, from Hercula¬ 
neum—418, bust of Plato, from 
ditto—422, bust of Varro—423, 
a Sibyl!—424, bust of Homer ! 

Cabinet. 427, Hermaphrodite- 
Faun!!—428, group of a Love 
and a Dolphin—429, small sta¬ 
tue of Diana, from Herculaneum! 
432, small statue of Bacchus, 
found in the Temple of Isis, at 
Pompeii—433, Venus, from ditto 
—434, small statue of Isis, from 
ditto—442, small statue of a Faun, 
from Pompeii—444, small statue 
of Siienus seated, from Hercula¬ 
neum !—454, bust of a Lady, from 
Pompeii—456, bust of a Faun, 
from ditto—459, bust of a Lady, 
from Herculaneum—465, small 
statue of a Faun, from ditto— 
457, small statue of a Philosopher 
seated' —473, small statue of a 



NAPLES. 


235 


Ch. X.] 

Youth, from Herculaneum—475, 
small statue of a Female. 

The Gallery of ancient Sculp¬ 
ture likewise contains columns of 
precious marbles, found in Her¬ 
culaneum, Pompeii, and other 
parts of Magma-Gracia. 

Apartment on the ground- 
jloor, containing Egyptian Anti¬ 
quities. Among- the most inte¬ 
resting- things in this collection 
are, the statue of Isis, found in 
her Temple at Pompeii—an Isiac 
Tabic, and two Salvers on stands, 
also found there—a small statue 
of Pluto, found in the Temple of 
Serapis at Pozzuoli — beautiful 
small vases, Lachrymatories, and 
Incense-bottles — a Wine-cup— 
EgyptianDivinities and Mummies. 

Apartment on the ground- 
floor , containing bronze Statues 
and Busts, chiefly found in Her¬ 
culaneum . Left side. Statue of 
Mammius Maximus—statue of an 
Infant Hercules !—bust of Ptole¬ 
my- Apion!—statue of M. Cala- 
torius—bust of Seneca—half- 
length statue of Diana, from Pom¬ 
peii—bust of a young Hercules— 
statue of Augustus!—small group 
of a Faun and a Youth, from 
Pompeii. (The eyes in both these 
statues are of silver; and the stand, 
which supports them, is beautifully 
inlaid with the same metal.) Re¬ 
cess. Head of Virgil’s Horse, and 
several small bronzes; among 
which is a group supposed to re¬ 
present Alexander and Bucepha¬ 
lus ! Left side continued. Small 
statue, from Pompeii, of Apollo, 
with silver eyes—statue of Clau¬ 
dius Drusus—bust of Archytas— 
statue of a Satyr!—bust, called 
Plato !—statue of Nero Drusus— 
busts of Lucius Cgesar, Sappho, 
and Scipio Africanus — statue, 
called Antonia. Right side. Bust 
of Antinous in the character of 


Bacchus — busts of Commodus, 
Sylla, Caracalla, Ptolemy-Alex¬ 
ander, Augustus, Democritus, 
Ptolemy-Philadelphus, and Ptole- 
my-Soter—statue of a Discobolus! 
—statue of Piety — statue of a 
Discobolus !—busts of Berenice, 
Heraclitus, Tiberius, Livia, and 
Lepidus—statue of an Actress— 
busts of Caius Caesar, Ptolemy- 
Philometor, and Annius Verus. 
Centre of the Apartment. Sta¬ 
tues of two Deer — statue of a 
drunken Faun reposing on a skin 
of wine!—statue of a horse, sup¬ 
posed to have adorned the The¬ 
atre at Herculaneum !—statue of 
Mercury seated!!—statue of Apol¬ 
lo, from Pompeii. 

Another Apartment, usually 
locked up, though always opened 
when Travellers wish to see it, 
contains a beautiful little statue 
of Bacchus, found in Pompeii; a 
small Etruscan Diana, with a co¬ 
loured border to her robe, found 
in Herculaneum ; and a small Ve¬ 
nus, lately found in Pompeii. 

Apartments up stairs. On the 
landing-place there are three doors; 
and that on the left leads to the 
rooms where the Papyri, brought 
from Herculaneum, are unrolled. 
Though all these scrolls are so 
much scorched as to resemble tin¬ 
der, yet some of them (about four 
hundred) have, by a most tedious 
process, been opened ; and about 
ninety were found in a legible 
state. Among these are, frag¬ 
ments of a Latin poem, relative 
to the war between Anthony and 
Octavius—Epicurus upon Nature 
—a work by Polystratus—frag¬ 
ments of a work by Colotes—Philo- 
demus upon Music and Rhetoric— 
and works which bear the names 
of Demetrius, Carniscus, Chrysip- 
pus, fyc. The number of scrolls 
brought to the Museum is said to 


23(3 


NAPLES. 


amount to about seventeen hun¬ 
dred ; but, of those not yet ope¬ 
rated upon, about one hundred 
only seem sufficiently perfect to be 
capable of expansion. Thirty- 
nine years after the discovery of 
Herculaneum a considerable num¬ 
ber of scrolls of Papyrus, owing 
to an excavation made in a garden 
at Resina, were discovered in a 
house supposed to have belonged 
to Lucius Piso. 

The middle-door leads to the 
Library, which contains nearly an 
hundred and fifty thousand printed 
volumes, including several of the 
fifteenth century; and a large col¬ 
lection of precious manuscripts; 
among which are those of S. Tho¬ 
mas Aquinas, and the Aminta of 
Tasso. Here likewise is the UJ/izio 
of the Madonna, illuminated by 
Giulio Clovio, bound in gold, and 
decorated with hassi-rilievi ! and 
another book, called the Flora, 
which likewise contains chefs- 
d'oeuvres in miniature painting! 

Antiquities found in Hercula¬ 
neum, Pompeii, Stab ice, Capri, 
&c. First room. Cabinet of 
Gems. Here are Necklaces, Ear¬ 
rings, Brooches, and Gold Orna¬ 
ments of almost every description. 
Camei and Intagli, among which 
is the celebrated Cameo, said to 
be the most precious work of its 
kind in existence ; and represent¬ 
ing the Apotheosis of the first 
Ptolemy on one side, and the head 
of Medusa on the other—two an¬ 
cient Mosaics, one of which ex¬ 
hibits a tympanum, or tambarine, 
like those now used at Naples— 
four monochromatic Paintings on 
marble—a beautiful Hying figure 

( q ) The pound weight of Magna Gcajcia 
appears to have been like the present pound 
weight of Naples, between ten and eleven 
ounces : and the ancient steelyards, if I may 
so call balances made of bronze, resemble 
those now used at Naples in shape, though 


[Ch. X. 

of Victory, and several other 
Paintings, from Herculaneum and 
Pompeii—a collection of ancient 
Colours, used in fresco-painting 
—two Loaves—a Honey-comb— 
Fruits — Grain—and other Eat¬ 
ables, all burnt to cinders. Se¬ 
cond room. Ancient Glass. Good 
Glass for windows—Vases of va¬ 
rious shapes—Rummers, not un¬ 
like those in present use—small 
Dishes, some of which are painted 
— Incense-bottles, supposed to 
have been Lachrymatories, till 
lately found with odoriferous gums 
remaining in them—large Bottles 
for medicines, found in an apo¬ 
thecary's shop at Pompeii, $c. tyc. 
A glass Vessel, not yet (I believe) 
placed in this room, contains 
Rouge, similar to that worn at 
present. Third room. Kitchen- 
Furniture, consisting of Bronze 
Utensils, many of them lined and 
inlaid with Silver—marble Mor¬ 
tars—a Gridiron—a variety of ele¬ 
gantly shaped bronze Moulds for 
pastry—a portable bronze Stove 
—Boilers — Stewing-pans—Fry¬ 
ing-pans, $c. Fourth room. 
Scales and Weights <i; the latter 
elegantly ornamented — a great 
variety of Lamps—a Lantern, 
glazed with horn instead of glass 
—Candelabra ; some of which are 
particularly elegant — beautiful 
Steelyards—and a Basin of bronze 
inlaid with silver. Fifth room. 
Sacrificial Vases — a Wine-cup, 
shaped like a horse's head—sacri¬ 
ficial Knives—a Brush, supposed 
to have been used in sprinkling 
the purifying water • and like what 
Roman Catholic priests now use 
for a similar purpose r — two 

far superior in beauty. 

(/•) Every ancient Temple contained a 
vase filled with purifying water, and placed, 
it is supposed, near the entrance : and with 
this water every person, who came to bo- 
lenni sacrifices, was sprinkled. 


NAPLES. 


2 37 


Ch. X.] 

Couches for the gods, exhibited 
at festivals called Lectisternia, 
and composed of bronze inlaid 
with silver !—a bronze Altar— 
two Chairs for the Priests—bronze 
Tripods ; one of which is particu¬ 
larly elegant—Vessels for incense 
■—a variety of other Vessels used 
in heathen temples ; and a beau¬ 
tiful Vase lately found at Pompeii. 
Sixth room. Right side. Seve¬ 
ral pieces of furniture employed 
in ancient Paths ; among which 
are Scrapers for the skin, and ele¬ 
gant Essence-bottles —• a child’s 
toy, representing a Carriage — 
ancient Greek Armour — two 
Bells, for marking time — and 
another toy representing a Car. 
Seventh room. Right side. Ink- 
stands, with remains of ink — 
Styles—Pens of cedar—a Case 
for Styles — Tablets ■— Letters 
for stamping bread ; which let¬ 
ters appear to have been used 
in a manner so like printing, 
that one wonders such an inven¬ 
tion should have escaped the An¬ 
cients—Mirrors of metal—cliirur- 
gical Instruments, but no lancets 
—Opera-tickets for the boxes and 
benches ; the latter tickets being 
numbered to correspond with the 
numbers of the scats at the theatres 
—musical Instruments; namely, 
the Sistrum, Cymbal, §c .—Bells 
for cattle, precisely like those used 
at the present day—Dice—House- 

(.$) The Mirrors, Combs, Rouge, and 
other personal ornaments, belonging to this 
collection, were found in the tombs of fe¬ 
males: the Arms, Armour, Papyri, and 
Styles, in the tombs of men: the Toys 
in the tombs of children : (I saw Tops, and 
a jointed Doll, found in a tomb;) and 
Kitcheii-fuinilure was found in every tomb; 
as were Vases for wine, oil, 5 so that by 
examining the abodes of the Dead, we have 
been taught the domestic oeconoiny of the 
Living who inhabited this earth from two 
to three thousand years ago. Dice, like¬ 
wise, are continually found in ancient 
tombs. 

( t) This distinction, however, could not 


hold-gods—an elegant portable 
Stove—bronze Door-cases—Nails 
— Screws — Locks —• Keys — 
Latches—Bolts—Hinges, $c .— 
The two last-named rooms like¬ 
wise contain Bridles—Stirrups—• 
a Mosaic Table with beautiful 
Feet, from Pompeii — Rings — 
Necklaces—Ear-rings—Bracelets 
—Pins for the hair—ornaments 
called Bulla: , worn by young Pa¬ 
tricians till they were allowed to as¬ 
sume the Toga —Silver Cups, Sau¬ 
cers, and Spoons ; but no Forks*. 

Apartments containing sepul¬ 
chral Grecian Vases, &c. The 
Pavements of these rooms were 
taken from Herculaneum, Pom¬ 
peii, Stabise, $c. ; and are parti- 
larly beautiful. The collection of 
Vases is highly interesting. Those 
found in the tombs of the Rich 
arc light-coloured, and exhibit 
paintings which usually represent 
mythological subjects: those found 
in the tombs of the Poor are dark- 
coloured, and quite plain*. J'he 
first room contains a Table from 
Pompeii with beautiful Feet; 
and a Vase, the painting on which 
represents Orestes tormented by 
the Furies. Some of the most 
interesting paintings on the Vases 
in the second room are, the Se¬ 
pulchre of Agamemnon—Hercules 
stealing the Tripod of Apollo— 
and an ancient Repast. A Widow 
bewailing the death of her bus- 

have subsisted in very remote ages, when 
pottery appears to have been made of ma¬ 
terials black as jet, and beautifully polished; 
but not adorned with paintings. In a tomb, 
thirty feet under ground, at S. Agnello, a 
village situated in the Piano di Sorrento, a 
skeleton was lately discovered of a warrior, 
cased in armour,and supposed to have been 
one of the Phoenicians who colonised there. 
The armour is of a kind which announces 
no common person: but, nevertheless, the 
skeleton was surrounded with plain black 
vases, and incense bottles of plain red pot¬ 
tery. This tomb likewise contained a la¬ 
chrymatory of oriental alabaster, and ap¬ 
parently of Egyptian workmanship. 


23S 


NAPLES. 


[Ch. X. 


band is likewise a common subject 
on these urns. The Vases in the 
third room exhibit paintings of 
Hercules killing the Centaur—an 
Egyptian Ceremony, $c. The 
fourth room contains models, in 
cork, representing the inside of 
two ancient Sepulchres; one of 
which exhibits a corse in the cen¬ 
tre (with a piece of money in its 
mouth, and an incense-bottle on 
its breast u ) surrounded by lamps, 
vases for the purifying water, wine, 
oil, incense, fyc. ; and a dish for 
Cerberus’s sop. The other, which 
is the precise representation of the 
inside of a Tomb found at Pses- 
tum, contains a painting (the sub¬ 
ject of which is a Combat;) four 
vases, a dish for Cerberus’s sop, 
and the corse placed in the centre, 
with arms and armour by its side. 
This room likewise contains the 
model of an ancient public Ceme¬ 
tery at Naples. In the fifth room 
are several Vases embellished with 
paintings, which appear to repre¬ 
sent Widows sacrificing ; and two 
others, on the first of which is the 
story of Cadmus ; and on the se¬ 
cond the tomb of Agamemnon ; 
Electra and Orestes being on one 
side, near the tomb ; and on the 
reverse side ZEgisthus and Cly- 
temnsestra in the act of marrying. 
The subjects of some of the paint¬ 
ings on the Vases in the sixth room 
are, Hercules slaying the Sicilian 
King ; with a beautiful ancient 
car on the reverse side of the Vase 
—Achilles dragging Hector round 
the walls of Troy—the Olympic 
games—the same subject repeated 
—an ancient Repast, particularly 

( u ) It is not uncommon to find the breast 
of a corse surrounded by six or eight in¬ 
cense bottles. 

(v) The earthen Vases of the Ancients 
were not consecrated to the Dead alone; 
but frequently used in sacrifices; (especially 
those made to Vesta; and likewise given, 
in very early ages, as prizes to the victors 


curious, because it exhibits the 
manner in which the Ancients 
drank — Hercules in the garden 
of the Hesperides, with a tree, and 
a serpent twined round it, very 
much like the modern representa¬ 
tion of the Garden of Eden—Pe¬ 
nelope in a car, and the gods look¬ 
ing down upon her ; together with 
a painting of Pulcinella , dressed 
as he now dresses on the Neapo¬ 
litan Stage, except that instead of 
a half-mask, he has one which en¬ 
tirely covers his face. Here like¬ 
wise are two ancient drinking 
cups ; together with a small, but 
extremely beautiful Vase, on which 
is written, “ The Lucretia.” In 
the seventh room are several par¬ 
ticularly fine Vases, brought from 
Nola v . 

Apartments containing Easel- 
Pictures''' 1 . Among the most ad¬ 
mired paintings in these rooms 
are, the Magdalene !—a portrait 
of Paul hi.— another picture re¬ 
presenting Paul hi,, tyc., but un¬ 
finished—Danae!!—and a portrait 
of Philip ii., all by Titian.—A 
Guardian Angel protecting a Child, 
by Domeniehino!—the Magda¬ 
lene, by Gucreino!—S. Peter, by 
ditto.—A Pieta!—Rinaldo and 
Aranda—Hercules between Vice 
and Virtue—Venus, a Faun, <!$•<?., 
all by Annibale Caracci.—A Picth, 
by Agostino Caracci!—The Sa¬ 
viour dead!—an Ecce Homo /— 
the Marriage of S. Catherine—the 
Madonna and our Saviour with a 
Rabbit!—two colossal Paintings 
—and two small pictures, (one a 
Holy Family, the other a Ma¬ 
donna and Child,) all by Corrcg- 

at Grecian festivals. Earthen vases filled 
with oil were bestowed on the conquerors 
at the Panathenaea ; and probably tins sort 
of ware served also for domestic purposes. 

(*v) One of these rooms contains excellent 
Models, in cork, of the Temples, Basilica, 
4c., at Paestum; and likewise of other 
ancient edifices in Magna Graecia. 


239 


NAPLES. 


Ch. X.] 

gio.—Portrait of the Mother of 
Raphael-—portrait of a Fencing 
Master! — the Holy Family — 
Leo x. between Cardinals Passe- 
rini and Bembo!—the Madonna 
and the Saviour—the Madonna, 
the Saviour, Elizabeth, and S. 
John!! all by Raphael. The 
adoration of the Magi, by Andrea 
da Salerno—Copy of the Madon¬ 
na della seggiola, by Giulio lio- 
mano—portrait of Giulio Clovio, 
by himself-—Alexander vi., by Se¬ 
bastian o del Piombo—Holy Fa¬ 
mily, by ditto—Holy Family, by 
Andrea del Sarto — Bramante, 
and the Duke of Urbino, by ditto 
•—the Assumption, by Fra Barto¬ 
lomeo—the Madonna and our Sa¬ 
viour, by Leonardo da Vinci—S. 
John, by ditto!!—a large Land¬ 
scape, by Claude !!—an Angel, 
by Schidone!—Charity, by ditto!! 
—a Head, by Vandyck—Lucre- 
tia—Vespucio — Columbus —and 
two laughing Children, all by Par¬ 
migianino.'—The last Judgment, 
designed by Buonaroti, and co¬ 
loured by one of his Scholars—two 
Heads, by Rembrandt—the Fall 
of Simon Magus, by Lodovico 
Caracci—and the Crucifixion, by 
Marco da Siena. 

The Museo-Borbonico is usu¬ 
ally open to the public every day, 
festivals excepted, from eight in 
the morning till two in the after¬ 
noon ; and Foreigners usually 
give, to cachCustodc, from two to 
six carlini, according to the size of 
the party he attends, and the 
trouble he takes in explaining 

( x ) Persons who purchase Fin ati’s ex¬ 
cellent account of the gallery of sculpture 
are not expected to give any fee below 
stairs, except two carlini to the Cnstode of 
the rooms which contain the Egyptian An¬ 
tiquities and the llronzes: and Travellers 
who wish to dive deep into the Antiquities 
of Magna Grajcia should endeavour to ob¬ 
tain an introduction to the Canonico Don 
Andrea di Jorio, who is not only a distin- 


things: Foreigners, however, are 
not expected to repeat these fees 
every time they visit the Museum*. 

Palazzo-Rcale y. This edifice, 
erected by the Count de Lemos, 
according to the designs of the 
Cav. Fontana, to whose taste it 
does honour, contains magnificent 
apartments handsomely furnished, 
and enriched with fine Pictures, 
namely, Tobias, his Son, and the 
Angel, by Gucrcino—Susanna in 
the Bath, by Lodovico Caracci— 
the Descent from the Cross, by 
Daniello daVolterra!—the same 
subject, by Annibale Caracci—• 
Atlas, by Guido—Charity, by ditto 
—Cupid and Psyche, by Gherardo 
delle Notti—Charity, by Schidone 
•—an Ecce Homo , by Correggio— 
the Madonna of Monte-Casino, 
by Raphael—and S. Peter and S. 
Paul, by ditto. This palace like¬ 
wise contains a Hall hung round 
with Portraits of the Viceroys of 
Naples, by Massimo and Paolo 
Matteis ; and a handsome Chapel, 
with an Altar of agate, lapis la¬ 
zuli, and other precious marbles. 
The Residence of Prince Le- 
opoldo , which is nearly opposite 
to the Palazzo-Rcale, contains the 
finest Collection of Pictures in 
Naples. 

Chiesa di S. Ferdinando. — 
This church is richly adorned with 
marbles: and the Ceiling of the 
Nave, the Cupola, and its Angles, 
are embellished with the best fres¬ 
cos of Paolo Matteis. The Sta¬ 
tues of David and Moses, in one 
of the Chapels, are by Vacearo ; 

guished antiquary, but likewise a most gen¬ 
tlemanly and agreeable companion. 

( y ) It is necessary to have an order for 
seeing the Palazzo-Rcale, at Naples; and 
the other regal residences. These orders 
must be signed by the Lord High Steward : 
and Foreigners who apply for them pay one 
piastre. None of the regal residences, 
however, are worth seeing, except the pa¬ 
lace at Naples, and that at Caserta. ^ 


240 


NAPLES. 


[Ch. X. 


and the Picture which adorns the 
High Altar is by Solimena. 

Castel-Nuovo. This fortress, 
begun in 1283, according to the 
designs of Giovanni Pisano, but 
not completed till 1546, contains 
the Arsenal, and a triumphal Arch, 
erected in honour of Alphonso of 
Arragon. 

Gastello dell Uovo. This was 
once a Villa belonging to Lucul- 
lus ; but an earthquake separated 
it from the main land ; and Wil¬ 
liam i., second King of Naples, 
built a palace here. It derives its 
name from its shape. 

Chiesa di S. Maria del Parto. 
The ground on which this edifice 
stands was given by Frederic n. 
of Arragon, to his Secretary, San- 
nazaro : and behind the high altar 
is the Tomb of that great Poet, by 
Poggibonzi, one of Buonaroti’s 
scholars. The ornaments are too 
numerous, but the composition is 
good, and the Bassi-rilievi, allu¬ 
sive to the Piscatory Eclogues, 
and other writings of Sannazaro, 
are finely executed. On the sides 
of the Monument are statues of 
Apollo and Minerva, now called 
David and Judith ; and on the 
top is the bust of Sannazaro, with 
his Arcadian name, Act ins Sin- 
cerus, placed between two weep¬ 
ing Genii. The inscription, 

“ Da sacro cineri Jloves. Hie ille Maroni 
Sincerus mils a proxlmits ut tumulo” 

is by Cardinal Bembo. 

Chiesa di S. Brigida. Here 
is the Tomb of Giordano, and 
a Cupola painted by that distin¬ 
guished artist. 

Chiesa di S. Giovanni de' Fio- 
rentini. This edifice, built by a 
scholar of Buonaroti’s, is said to 
be a fine specimen of architecture. 

Chiesa di lIncoronata. Here 
are remains of Paintings by Gi¬ 
otto. 


Chiesa della Pieta de' Tor - 
chini. This church is adorned 
with a fine Altar-Piece, by Soli¬ 
mena, and a beautiful Painting in 
the Lantern of its Cupola, by 
Giordano! 

Chiesa di JS. Maria Nuova. 
Here are good paintings, by Marco 
di Siena. 

Chiesa di Monte-Olivcto. Here 
are curious statues, in cretta-cotta, 
by Modanino di Modena, repre¬ 
senting illustrious characters of the 
fifteenth century : and that called 
Joseph of Arimathea, is, in fact, 
the portrait of Sannazaro. This 
church also contains a picture of 
the Purification, by Vassari (who 
likewise painted the Sacristy;) an 
Assumption, by Pinturicchio; and 
one of the best Organs in Italy. 

Chiesa di Gesh Nuovo, or Tri¬ 
nit a Maggiore. This church, 
one of the finest at Naples, was 
built according to the designs of 
Novello di S. Lucano: it has suf¬ 
fered considerably from earth¬ 
quakes ; by one of which the cu¬ 
pola, painted by Lanfranco, was 
destroyed, the four Evangelists 
excepted. The other Paintings 
in the present Cupola are by Paolo 
Matteis, Over the great door is 
a large Fresco, by Solimena, re¬ 
presenting Heliodorus driven out 
of the Temple ! The Chapel of 
the Madonna was likewise painted 
by Solimena. The Chapel of S. 
Ignazio is adorned with fine 
marbles, and the whole edifice in- 
crusted and paved with the same. 
The Chapel of the Trinity con¬ 
tains a Picture by Guercino. 

Chiesa di S. Chiara. This was 
originally a Gothic structure, com¬ 
menced in 1310, according to the 
designs of Masuccio, who likewise 
built the Campanile, which, though 
not completed as he purposed, is 
much admired in point of archi- 


241 


NAPLES. 


CIi. X.] 

tecturc. The interior of the church 
was adorned with paintings by 
Giotto, till the Regent, Bario 
Nuovo, not understanding their 
merit, ordered them to be covered 
with white-wash. During the 
year 1744, Vaccaro modernized 
the nave, which was, at the same 
time, beautifully paved with rare 
marbles, and embellished with a 
Ceiling, painted by Sebastiano 
Concaand Francesco Mura : that 
part which represents S. Chiara 
putting the Saracens to flight, is 
by the last-named artist, and a 
work of great merit: he likewise 
painted the Picture that adorns the 
High Altar, near which are two 
fluted Columns ; and, according to 
tradition, that on the left was 
brought from Solomon’s Temple. 

One of the Chapels contains a 
Picture by Lanfranco ; and, in 
another, some Paintings by Giotto 
are still remaining. The Bassi- 
rilievi over the great door deserve 
attention z . 

Chiesa di S. Giovanni Mao- 

o 

giore. This edifice is built upon 
the ruins of a Temple which was 
erected by Adrian to his Favourite, 
Antinous. It was consecrated by 
Constantine and S. Helena to S. 
John Baptist; and, in conse- 
cjiience of its great antiquity, a 
Tomb which it contains has been 
dignified with the appellation of 
Parthenope’s Sarcophagus. 

Chiesa del Salvatore, or Gesh 
Vecchio. Here are Paintings by 
M arco di Siena, Francesco Mura, 
Solimena, 

Chiesa ili S. Domenico Mag- 
giore. This church contains an 
Annunciation, attributed to Ti- 

( z ) This church likewise contains an ele¬ 
gant Latin Epitaph in memory of a young 
Lady, who expired on the day destined for 
her nuptials. 

(a) No invalid should attempt to visit 


tian ; and a Flagellation, attri¬ 
buted to M. A. Caravaggio. The 
Ceiling of the Sacristy is adorned 
with a painting of S. Domenico 
in glory, by Solimena ! The Con¬ 
vent belonging to this church for¬ 
merly comprised the University ; 
whose Professors taught their 
Scholars in vaults underground. 

Chiesa dello Spirito Santo. 
This is a fine edifice in point of 
architecture; and contains a paint¬ 
ing, by Giordano, of the Madonna 
presenting a rosary to S. Dome¬ 
nico. 

Chiesa di S. Maria della Sa- 
nitd. Here are good Pictures, by 
Giordano, Bernardino Siciliano, 
Andrea Vaccaro, and Agostino 
Beltrano. This Church leads to 
the Catacombs ; as likewise do the 
Churches of S, Severo, and S. 
Gennaro de’ Poveri. The Cata¬ 
combs of Naples are said to be 
much larger than those of Rome : 
it is not easy, however, to ascer¬ 
tain this ; it being impossible to 
penetrate far into them. The ge¬ 
neral opinion seems to be, that 
they were, like the Roman Cata¬ 
combs, public burial-places, formed 
originally by excavations made in 
search of pozzolana 3 . 

Chiesa di S. Giovanni a Car- 
bonara. This church merits no¬ 
tice on account of containing a 
Gothic Tomb, immensely large, of 
Ladislaus, King of Naples ; an¬ 
other of Giovanni Caracciolo, and 
some fine Sculpture in the Vico- 
Chapel. 

Chiesa de' S. S. Apostoli. This 
church, erected on the site of a 
Temple of Mercury, and conse¬ 
crated to the Apostles, by Con- 

these subterranean repositories; the inves¬ 
tigation of which cannot be wholesome, 
even for persons in health: all the unhappy 
suti'erers during the last Plague having been 
thrown in here. 


R 


242 


NAPLES. 


stantine, was rebuilt during 1 the 
seventeenth century, and adorned 
with particularly fine Frescos. 
The Ceiling 1 of the great Nave 
and Choir, the five Pictures on the 
walls of the latter, and the Ang-les 
of the Cupola, are by Lanfranco! 
as likewise are the Ceiling's of the 
small Chapels, and the larg-e and 
beautiful Fresco over the great 
door. The Cupola was painted 
by Benasca, and the Lunettes are 
the work of Solimena and Gior¬ 
dano ; the latter of whom has 
likewise adorned the Cross with 
four painting’s representing 1 the 
Annunciation! the Nativity ! the 
Birth of the Madonna! and the 
Presentation in the Temple ! The 
High Altar is richly embellished 
with precious marbles; and the 
Filomarini-Chapel, (great part of 
which was executed after the de¬ 
signs of Guido, by Calandra da 
Vercelli,) is adorned with a beau¬ 
tiful Basso-rilievo , by Fiamingo, 
representing a Concert of Chil¬ 
dren !! Opposite to this Chapel 
is that of the Conception, richly 
adorned with precious marbles, 
and embellished with Paintings 
by Solimena and Marco di Siena. 

Arcivescovado. This cathe¬ 
dral, commonly called La Chiesa 
di S. Gennaro, the Patron-Saint 
of Naples, is a Gothic edifice, 
built by Niccolo Pisano: but the 
ancient Cathedral, dedicated to 
Santa Restituta, was erected, dur¬ 
ing the reign of Constantine, up¬ 
on the site of a Temple of Apollo. 
Charles i. of Anjou began the new 
Cathedral, which was finished in 


[Ch. X. 

1299 ; but, being destroyed by an 
earthquake, it was rebuilt by Al- 
phonso i. The outside is in crusted 
with white marble, and ornamented 
with two columns of porphyry. 
The inside is not splendid; though 
supported by nearly an hundred 
columns of Egyptian granite, Afri¬ 
can marble, <§•£*., taken from the 
Temples of Neptune and Apollo. 
The Font, placed near the great 
door on the left, is an ancient 
Vase of Basalt, adorned with the 
attributes of Bacchus; (decora¬ 
tions not very appropriate to a 
Christian Temple.) The High 
Altar, made according to the de¬ 
signs of Cav. Posi, is composed of 
precious marbles, and adorned with 
two antique Candelabra of jasper. 
Under the high altar is a subter¬ 
ranean Chapel, called II Soccorjw, 
which contains the body of S. 
Gennaro ; and is supposed to be a 
remaining part of the Temple of 
Apollo. This Chapel is incrusted 
with white marble, adorned with 
columns of the same ; and likewise 
embellished with bassi-rilievi in 
the arabesque style. Behind the 
tomb of S. Gennaro is a statue of 
the Constructor of this Chapel, 
Cardinal Caraffa b , attributed to 
Buonaroti. Adjoining to the pre¬ 
sent cathedral is the ancientC/i urch 
of S. Restituta; which, though 
in part destroyed, still contains 
Columns probably taken from the 
Temple of Apollo; an Assump¬ 
tion, by Pietro Perugino ; and 
some Mosaics of the time of Con¬ 
stantine. In the modern Cathe¬ 
dral, and situated opposite to the 


( b ) Cardinal Caraffa, Archbishop of Na- of this statue, in all distempers of horses, 
pies, is celebrated for having melted Virgil’s that, when these animals were ill, they 

horse. The arms of Naples being a horse, were brought from every part of the king- 

there formerly stood one of bronze near dom, however remote, to be led round the 
the cathedral; the Vulgar said it was cast statue: therefore, in order to abolish so 
by Virgil, (whom they believe to have been silly a custom, the Archbishop melted down 

a Magician;) and they entertained such the whole of Virgil’s horse, the head ex- 

superstitious notions of the great efficacy cepted. 


Ch. X.] NAPLES. 243 


Church of S. Restituta, is the 
Chapel of S. Gennaro, called II 
Tesoro , and built in consequence 
of a vow, made by the city of 
Naples during 1 the Plag ue of 1526. 
The entrance to this Chapel is 
througdi a magnificent bronze door, 
adorned with fine Columns of rare 
marble, and Statues of S. Peter 
and S. Paul. The interior of the 
edifice is a rotunda, embellished 
with a Cupola, painted by Lan- 
franco c !! and supported by forty- 
two Corinthian Columns of bro- 
catello ; between which, on fes¬ 
tivals, are placed thirty-five silver 
Busts of Saints, executed by Fi- 
nelli; and eighteen Busts, in 
bronze, by other artists. The 
high altar is adorned with a Statue 
of S. Gennaro in the act of bless¬ 
ing- the people ; and likewise with 
a silver Tabernacle, containing 
the head of the Saint, and two 
small Vessels filled with his Blood, 
supposed to have been collected 
by a Neapolitan Lady during- his 
martyrdom. Here also is a pic¬ 
ture of S. Gennaro coming- out of 
the furnace, by Spagnoletto. The 
Painting- in the larg-e Chapel, to 
the right of the high altar, is by 
Domenichino!; as are the Arches 
and Angles of the roof, and the 
Pictures in three of the small 
Chapels. 

The Ceremony of liquefying 
the blood of S. Gennaro takes 
place three times a year; namely, 
in May, September, and Decem¬ 
ber ; and is an interesting sight 
to Foreigners: if it liquefy quickly, 
the joy expressed by the Neapoli¬ 
tans is great; but if there be any 
unexpected delay, the tears, pray¬ 
ers, and cries, are excessive ; as 
the non-performance of this mira- 

(c) Domenichino began to paint the cu¬ 
pola; but died soon after the commence* 


cle is supposed to announce some 
dreadful impending calamity. 

Chiesa cli S. Filippo Neri cle ’ 
P. P. Gerolimini. This is one of 
the handsomest churches at Naples: 
the outside being cased with mar¬ 
ble ; the inside lined with the 
same, and divided into three aisles 
by twelve magnificent Columns of 
granite. The pavement is marble, 
and very elegant ; and the High 
Altar is composed of agate, sar¬ 
donyx, jasper, lapis lazuli, mother 
of pearl, fyc. Here also are fine 
Paintings in the Angles of the 
Cupola ; a celebrated, though much 
damaged Fresco, above the great 
door, by Giordano, representing 
our Saviour chasing the Buyers 
and Sellers from the Temple; over 
the fifth Altar, on the right, S. 
Teresa with her Carmelites at the 
foot of a crucifix, by the same 
artist; and, on the opposite side, 
S. Francesco, by Guido. The 
Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is richly 
decorated; and contains, in its 
Cupola, a painting, by Solimena, 
which represents the Saint in 
glory ; and on the opposite side of 
the high altar is another Chapel, 
the Cupola of which was painted 
by Simonelli, the subject being 
Judith showing the head of Holo- 
fernes to his army. The Chapel 
of S. Alessio contains a Picture 
by Pietro da Cortona; and in the 
Sacristy are Paintings attributed 
to Guido, Domenichino, Spagno¬ 
letto, fyc. The Ceiling is by Gior¬ 
dano. 

Chiesa cli S. Paolo Maggiore. 
This stately edifice stands on the 
site of an ancient Temple, sup¬ 
posed to have been erected by 
Julius Tarsus, Tiberius's Freed¬ 
man ; who consecrated it to Cas- 

ment of his work; which, from motives of 
envy, was obliterated by Lanfranco. 


244 


NAPLES. 


tor and Pollux. A considerable 
part of the portico of this Temple 
remained till the earthquake of 
16SS ; but, now, only two Co¬ 
lumns and the Entablature are 
entire. These noble vestiges of 
antiquity, two Bases of other co¬ 
lumns, and the Trunks of the sta¬ 
tues of Castor and Pollux (re¬ 
cumbent figures half buried in the 
wall) are on the outside of the 
church ; the interior of which is 
elegantly incrusted with marble, 
and adorned with paintings by So- 
limena, Massimo, §c. The Frescos 
on the ceiling, by Corenzio, were 
originally fine ; though now much 
injured ; but that above the great 
door is in good preservation. The 
Sacristy contains the chefs-d'oeu¬ 
vres of Solimena ; and the Clois¬ 
ters of the adjoining Convent are 
adorned with antique Columns, 
and built upon the site of an an¬ 
cient Theatre , where Nero first 
exhibited in public ; because he 
deemed it less derogatory to im¬ 
perial grandeur to act with the 
awkwardness of a Beginner in 
one of the Grecian cities, than in 
his own Capital. 

Chiesa di S. Maria Maggiore. 
This church is said to have been 
erected on the ruins of a Temple 
of Diana ; and has a well-painted 
Ceiling. 

Chiesa di S. Pietro a Majella. 
The Ceiling of the Nave is finely 
painted by Calabrese! 

Cappella di S. Severn. This 
chapel, the Mausoleum of the San- 
gro-family, and called S. Maria 
della Pieta, is a singular edifice, 
adorned with rare marbles, and 
surrounded with arches; each of 
which contains a Sarcophagus, 
and a Statue of one of the Princes 
of Sangro: while attached to every 
adjoining pilaster is the tomb of 
the X'rincess who was wife to the 


[Ch. X. 

Prince in the arch ; each of the 
last named tombs being orna¬ 
mented with a Statue representing 
the most conspicuous virtue of the 
lady in the tomb. One of the most 
remarkable statues is that of Mo¬ 
desty, covered from head to foot 
with a veil ; through which, how¬ 
ever, the features are clearly dis¬ 
cernible. 'I’lie sculptor was Cor- 
radini. Vice undeceived is like¬ 
wise a remarkable work ; it re¬ 
presents a Man caught in a net, 
and struggling to extricate him¬ 
self, by aid of the Genius of Good- 
Sense ! the sulptor was Queirolo. 
Here, likewise, is a dead Christ 
covered with a veil, which seems 
damped by the sweat of Death!! 
The sculptor was Giuseppe San 
Martino ; and all these works pe¬ 
culiarly merit notice from being 
original; as neither Greeks nor 
Romans seem to have attempted 
shewing the face and form with 
distinctness through a veil. This 
chapel has suffered severely from 
earthquakes. 

Chiesa di S. 31. Annunziata. 
This edifice, which was destroyed 
by fire, and rebuilt in 17S2, accord¬ 
ing to the designs of the Cav.Van- 
vitelli, is one of the most chaste 
and beautiful specimens of archi¬ 
tecture at Naples. The columns 
by which it is supported, forty-four 
in number, are all composed of 
white marble. The Prophets in 
the Angles of the Cupola are by 
Fischietti; to whose pencil they 
do honour. The Pictures which 
adorn the High Altar, and those 
of the Cross, are by Francesco 
Mura. A chapel on the right, near 
the high altar, is adorned with a 
beautiful Pieta; and another cha¬ 
pel, near the great door, contains 
a picture of the Madonna and our 
Saviour, and little Angels, the last 
of which are finely executed. The 


245 


NAPLES. 


Oh. X.] 

Ceiling’s of the Sacristy and Te 
soro are painted by Corenzio; and 
the Presses exhibit the life of our 
Saviour curiously sculptured in 
wood, (some parts being gilt,) by 
Giovanni di Nola. 

Chiesa di S. Maria del Car¬ 
mine. This church is richly or¬ 
namented with rare marbles ; and 
contains Paintings by Solimena, 
Giordano, and Paolo Matteis. 

Chiesa di S. Martino de' Cer- 
tosini^. This church, which once 
belonged to the magnificent Cer- 
tosini convent, now the Asylum of 
military Invalids, was built after 
the designs of the Cav. Fansaga, 
and is more splendid and beautiful 
than any other sacred edifice at 
Naples: indeed it may vie with 
every church existing, in the ex¬ 
cellence of its paintings, and the 
value of its marbles and precious 
stones. Above the principal en¬ 
trance is a picture, by Massimo, 
representing our Saviour dead, and 
attended by the Madonna, the 
Magdalene, and S. John. The 
Ceiling and upper part of the 
walls of the Nave were painted 
by Lanfranco, except the twelve 
Prophets, by Spagnoletto, which 
are particularly fine!! and the 
figures of Moses and Elias by the 
same artist. The Choir is beau¬ 
tiful ; and exhibits Paintings on 
the Ceiling, begun by the Cav. 
d’Arpino, and finished by Berar- 
dino. The unfinished picture of 
the Nativity, immediately behind 
the high altar, is by Guido, who 
did not live to complete it: the 
other Pictures are by Massimo, 
Lanfranco, and Spagnoletto; that 
of our Saviour administering the 
Communion, (by Spagnoletto,) and 

(tf) The Church of S. Martino stands near 
the Castle of S. Elmo, on the hill, called 
Monte Vornero, which rises above the city 
of Naples. To persons who walk, the dis¬ 
tance is inconsiderable 5 though, from tile 


that of the Crucifixion, (by Lan¬ 
franco,) are much admired. The 
High Altar, made after the designs 
of Solimena, is splendidly adorned 
with rare marbles, and precious 
stones ; as likewise are the Altars 
of the Chapels. That conse¬ 
crated to S. Bruno, contains a fine 
Altar-Piece, §c., by Massimo—- 
another Chapel is finely painted 
by Matteis—another, by Soli¬ 
mena—another is embellished with 
three good pictures; namely, S. 
John baptizing our Saviour, by 
Carlo Maratta! S. John preach¬ 
ing, by Matteis ; and the decapi¬ 
tation of the Saint, by Massimo. 
These chapels are likewise rich in 
sculpture ; and one of them con¬ 
tains a strikingly-fine Bust, by 
Giuseppe San-Martino. The Sa¬ 
cristy contains a Ceiling, beauti¬ 
fully painted by the Cav. d’Ar¬ 
pino—Presses ornamented with 
mosaics made of wood, and exe¬ 
cuted in a masterly style by a 
German Monk, in 1620—a fine 
picture of our Saviour on the 
Cross, the Madonna, the Magda¬ 
lene and S. John, by the Cav. 
d’Arpino—S. Peter denying our 
Saviour, by M. A. Caravaggio!! 
—and our Saviour carried up the 
holy Stairs to the house of Pilate, 
by Massimo and Viviani. The 
Ceiling and Arches of the Tesoro 
are by Giordano ! arid above the 
altar, which exhibits magnificent 
precious stones, is a painting of 
our Saviour dead, with the Ma¬ 
donna, the Magdalene, S. John, 
c5 -c., a highly-celebrated work, 
deemed the master-piece of Spa¬ 
gnoletto!!! The Council Hall 
contains a Ceiling painted by Co¬ 
renzio—the Doctors of the Church, 

steepness of the ascent, and the almost in¬ 
numerable steps which compose the foot¬ 
way, this walk is fatiguing. The coach* 
road is circuitous, but good* 


NAPLES. 


24,6 

ten in number, by Paolo Fignolio 
—and the Flagellation, by the 
Car. d’Arpino! The next apart¬ 
ment contains the history of S. 
Bruno round the Walls; with 
sacred subjects on the Ceiling, by 
Corenzio ! The Corridors of the 
adjoining Convent are composed 
of marble supported by columns 
of the same; and the view from 
the interior of this proudly-si¬ 
tuated edifice is enchanting. Im¬ 
mediately below the conventual 
Garden lies the large fiat-roofed 
city of Naples ; whose streets ap¬ 
pear like narrow foot-paths; while 
the buzz of its inhabitants, who 
look like pigmies, and the noise 
of the carriages, which seem no 
larger than children’s toys, are 
with difficulty distinguishable. On 
one side is Capo di Monte, and the 
rich Neapolitan Campania; on 
another rise the majestic moun¬ 
tains of the Apennine, with Ve¬ 
suvius in their front; while on 
another lies the wide-stretching 
Bay of Naples, bordered by Por- 
tici, fyc., on the left, and Poz- 
zuoli, Sfc., on the right. This stu¬ 
pendous view is seen to the great¬ 
est advantage from that part of 
the conventual Garden called 
The Belvedere e . 

Castello di S. Elmo. This 
fortress, formerly denominated S. 
Ermo, and, according to some 
writers, S. Erasmo, was begun 
by the Normans ; and is chiefly 
formed out of an immense rock, 
said to be hewn into subterranean 
apartments which extend to the 
Castello Nuovo. Charles v. erect¬ 
ed the citadel. 

( e) The abominable Neapolitan custom of 
throwing dead bodies, without cofiins, into 
burial-places under the churches, renders 
those which are most used as receptacles 
for the Dead, dangerous to the Living. 

Travellers who wish to visit the churches 
least objectionable on the above-mentioned 
account should coniine themselves to IS. 


[Ch. X. 

Palazzo-Berio. This noble 
edifice contains a fine collection of 
Pictures, a good library, and, in 
the Garden, a celebrated Group of 
Venus and Adonis, by CanovaC 

Albergo de' Poveri. This im¬ 
mense and magnificent building 
(not yet finished) is an Asylum for 
Orphans and Children whose pa¬ 
rents cannot afford to give them 
the advantage of education. Here 
the boys are instructed in reading, 
writing, drawing, engraving, the 
elements of the mathematics, <^c .; 
and the Girls in sewing, spin¬ 
ning, weaving linen, knitting, and 
other things useful to the poor. 

Naples contains several Thea¬ 
tres. The Teatro Reale di San 
Carlo, one of the largest and 
finest opera-houses in Italy, was 
so nearly destroyed by fire, during 
the year 1S1G, that nothing but 
the party-walls, and front of the 
building, remained: eleven months 
afterward, however, this Theatre 
rose from its ashes, adorned with 
even more than its original splen¬ 
dour ; and exhibiting six rows of 
boxes, (thirty-two in each row,) 
a parterre capable of accommo¬ 
dating six hundred and seventy- 
four persons seated, and above one 
hundred and fifty standing ; a 
stage, the dimensions of which are 
immense : spacious corridors ; ex¬ 
cellent stairs; and an adjoining 
edifice, called the Rid otto, 
which comprises ball-rooms, eat¬ 
ing-rooms, and apartments for 
gaming ; the last being constantly 
open, night and day. The Teatro 
Reale del Fondo is another opera- 
house, smaller than San Carlo, 

Maria del Parto —S. Martino—Trinita Mag- 
giore—S. Chiara—S. Domenico Maggiore— 
8. Maria della Pieta—S. Paolo Maggiore— 
S. Filippo Neri—S. Gennaro—the Annuu- 
ziata, and the S. S. Apostoli. 

(/) Here the servants are interdicted 
from receiving fees. 


247 


NAPLES. 


Ch. X.] 

but handsome. The Teatro de ’ 
Fiorentini exhibits buffa operas 
and plays. The Teatro Nuovo is 
appropriated to the same purpose. 
The Teatro di /San Ferdinando 
is larger than any other, except 
San Carlo. The Teatro della 
Fenice is very small, and exhibits 
musical pieces and plays : and the 
Teatro di San Carlino, likewise 
very small, is much frequented on 
account of PulcinellaE, who exhi¬ 
bits there, and is a character pecu¬ 
liar now, to the Kingdom of Na¬ 
ples, and, apparently, of Grecian 
origin: his performances are highly 
interesting to Persons acquainted 
with the Neapolitan dialect. The 
Teatro della Fenice, and the 
Teatro di San Carlino, are 
usually open twice, during twenty 
four hours, namely, at five in the 
afternoon ; and again at ten at 
night. The Theatres Royal are 
opened alternately ; because the 
same singers, dancers, and musi¬ 
cians, belong to both. 

The principal Promenades are, 
the Villa Reale; the Chiaja ; the 
Giardino flottanico, made by the 
French, and lying in the way to 
the Campo Marzo, also made by 
the same nation; who likewise 
constructed a Road called, by 
them, Strada-Napoleon, which 
extends from Naples to Capo di 
Monte ; and is a magnficent and 
particularly beneficial work; as 
carriages which could not formerly 
be drawn up the hill without the 
aid of four horses, now go con¬ 
stantly with a pair; so that this 
beautiful drive is become, during 
summer, the favourite airing of the 
Neapolitans. The Road begun 
by Murat, but not finished, from 
Naples to Pozzuoli, is also a de¬ 
lightful Promenade. 


Persons who have time to spare 
would do well to visit the Market 
built by the French in imitation of 
an ancient Forum Nundinarium ; 
and adorned by a figure of Abun¬ 
dance in its centre: (This market 
communicates with the Strada 
Toledo.) British Travellers should 
likewise visit the Chapel of the 
Crocelle, in the Chiatamone; 
where a Monument has been 
lately erected to the memory of 
the Rev. John Chetwode Eustace ; 
the eloquent and animated Author 
of “ The Classical Tour through 
Italy." This monument is placed 
behind the altar ; and consists of 
a plain tablet of white marble ; on 
which, between two pillars, a fe¬ 
male figure (perhaps representing 
Italy) stands in relief, leaning, in 
a pensive attitude, on a tomb ; and 
by her is a stork, in the act of de¬ 
vouring a serpent. The inscrip¬ 
tion is in Latin, and ends with the 
following lines : 

“ Care, vale! Patria manet, alernum- 
que manebit 

Te genuisse decus, non tumul&sse 
dolor.” 

Great care should be taken by 
Foreigners in order to procure 
good water, a scarce commodity 
at Naples ; that of the Fontana- 
Medina, near the Largo del Gas¬ 
tello, and that of the Fontana di 
S. Pietro Martire, and its envi¬ 
rons, is wholesome ; but persons 
who do not contrive to procure 
water from one of these Fountains, 
which are supplied by an aqueduct, 
incur the risk of being attacked 
with a dysentery, or some other 
putrid disease. 

The climate of Naples differs 
materially in different parts of the 
city. Persons who wish for a 
situation congenial to weak lungs. 


(g) In Neapolitan, Polecenelhi . 


243 


NAPLES. 


should reside in the Fouria. In 
the Largo del Gastello and its 
environs the air is tolerably soft: 
but in the quarter of S. Lucia the 
vicinity of the sea, united with the 
dampness occasioned by a tufo 
mountain, directly under which 
the houses are built, renders the 
air dangerous to invalids, and not 
very wholesome even for persons 
in health. The houses on the 
Chiaja are less dangerous than 
those in the quarter of S. Lucia, 
because further removed from the 
tufo mountain ; but their situation 
is too bleak for persons afflicted 
with tender lungs. Pizzo-Fal- 
cone is wholesome, and not noisy ; 
a peculiar advantage at Naples. 

The society in this city is not 
deemed so good as at Rome ; nei¬ 
ther is the Carnival so brilliant : 
but the Festival of S. Maria Piedi- 
grotto, on the 8th of September, 
is a sight worth seeing h . 

Here are several Hotels, and a 
considerable number of private 
lodging-houses ; among the former 
of which are ; The Gran-Bre- 
tagna—The Croeelle—The Villa 
di Londra—The Alhergo Reale 
—The Alhergo di Venezia, and 
The Hotel des lies Britanniques. 

The character of the Neapoli¬ 
tans appears to have been mistaken 
by Travellers ; who seem inclined 
to think the lower classes of peo¬ 
ple cunning, rapacious, profligate, 
and cruel; and the more exalted 
ignorant, licentious, and revenge¬ 
ful ; this, however, is not, gene¬ 
rally speaking, true ; for the com¬ 
mon people are open-hearted, in- 

(h ) On the eve of the Festival of Corpus 
Christi, the Magistrates of Naples give a 
concert of vocal and instrumental music 
to the common People, in a long and wide 
street, which is litted up for the occasion, 
with Galleries on each side ; a Fountain in 
the centre, adorned with evergreens and 
etatucs i and, at the upper end, a handsome 


[Ch. X 

dustrious, and though passionate, 
so fond of drollery, that a man in 
the greatest rage will suffer him¬ 
self to be appeased by a joke ; 
and though a Neapolitan some¬ 
times does an injury, from the 
first impulse of anger, he is not 
malicious. Those among the com¬ 
mon people who have mixed much 
with Foreigners are expert in 
making bargains, and eager to 
extort money ; but those who 
have lived chiefly among each 
other display no such propensities; 
and what seems to indicate a 
good disposition is, that they all 
may be governed by kind words ; 
while a contrary language never 
fails to frustrate its own purpose. 
Gentlemen of the church, law, and 
army, are tolerably well educated: 
and in this middle rank may be 
found as much true friendship, as 
much sterling worth, and as many 
amiable Characters, as in any 
nation whatsoever : neither are 
examples wanting, among the no¬ 
bility, of talents, erudition, and 
moral virtue, though such for a 
length of years has been the na¬ 
ture of* the Neapolitan Govern¬ 
ment, that persons gifted with 
power to distinguish themselves, 
have seldom ventured to exert it. 

I cannot dismiss this subject 
without mentioning a peculiar 
trait of charity we met with among 
the common people. Our cook, 
by birth a Neapolitan, was mar¬ 
ried to a young woman whom we 
hired, one summer, as our house¬ 
maid ; and, after having been with 
us a few weeks, she requested per- 

l emple, in which the musicians are placed, 
ihe street is brilliantly illuminated; and 
all these preparations are made within the 
space of six hours. The concert begins at 
eight in the evening, and ends at ten; and 
this entertainment is called the Festa di 
CfUcitctnioH^k 


NAPLES. 


249 


Ch. X.] 

mission to go and see her adopted 
child, who was (she said) very ill. 
The word “adopted,” surprised 
us so much, that we inquired why 
a man and woman who worked 
hard for their bread, and were 
both young - enough to expect a 
family of their own, had been in¬ 
duced to adopt a child ? They 
replied ; that the child was a 
foundling - ; and therefore belonged 
to the Madonna; consequently, 
by such an adoption, they ensured 
her blessing on themselves and 
their own offspring ; and, after¬ 
ward, when we mentioned this 
circumstance to our Neapolitan 
friends, they informed us, that 
such instances of charity were by 
no means rare among the common 
people *. 

I will now close my account 
of Naples with a List of the Ob¬ 
jects best worth notice, as they lie 
contiguous to each other. 

(i) Some writers have said that, among 
the common people of Naples, there are 
forty thousand termed Lazaroni, from hav¬ 
ing no home, and being consequently 
obliged to make the streets their sleeping- 
place ; this, however, is a mistake ; it being 


Studii Publici—Palazzo Reale 
— C/iiesa di 8. Ferdinando — 
CastelNuovo—Gastello dell' Uovo 
—Chiesa di 8. Maria del Parto 
—di S. Brigida—di 8. Giovanni 
de' Fiorentini — dell' l' Incoro- 
nata—della Pietdde' Torchini — 
di 8. Maria della Nuova — di 
Monte-Oliveto—di Trinitd Mag - 
giore—di 8. Chiara—di 8. Gi¬ 
ovanni 3Iai>-n-iorc—di Gesii Pec- 
chio—di S. Domenico Maggiore 
— delta Spirito 8anto — di 8. 
Maria della 8 a nit d—di 8. Gio¬ 
vanni d Carbonara — de' 8. 8. 
Apostoli—Arcivescovado— Chiesa 
de' Gerolimini—di 8. Paolo Mag¬ 
giore—di 8. Maria Maggiore — 
di 8. Pietro d Majella—Capella 
di 8. 8evcro—Chiesa di S.M.An- 
nunziata—di 8. Maria del Car¬ 
mine—di 8. Martino de' Certo- 
sini—Gastello di 8. Elmo — Pa¬ 
lazzo- Hcrio — Albergo de' Po- 
veri. 

quite as rare to see the indigent without a 
bed at Naples, as in any other city of Italy : 
the fact is that the Lazaroni sleep three or 
four in one bed, paying a grain each to their 
landlord. 



250 


CHAPTER XI. 


ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 

Excursion to Bairn—Virgil’s Tomb—Grotto of Posilipo—Island of Nisida—Pozzuoli— 
Cathedral—Pedestal adorned with bassi-rilieyi—Temple of Jupiter Serapis—Piers of 
the ancient Mole—Monte Nuovo—Lucrine Lake—Lake Avernus—Temple of Proser¬ 
pine—Grotto of,the Cumae an Sibyl—Nero’s Villa and Vapour Baths—Caesar’s Villa— 
Bairn—Temple of Venus— Camere di Venere—Public Baths—Temples of Mercury and 
Diana Baiana—Villa of Marius—Piscini of Hortensius—Villa of Lucullus—Piscina 
Mirabile—Cape and Port of Misenum—Cento Camerelle—Sepolcro d’Agrippina— 
Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli—Excursion to Cumae—Soifatara—Sepulchral Monuments of 
Puteoli—Cicero’s Villa—Arco Felice—Ancient Cumae—Grotto of the Sibyls Cumeaand 
Cumana—Tempio de’ Giganti—Excursion to the Lake d’ Agnano—Villa of Lucullus—• 
Baths of S. Germano—Grotto del Cane—Pisciarelli—Astroni—Excursion to Caserta— 
Aqueduct—Palace—Ancient Capua—Excursion by night to Vesuvius—best Cicerone—■ 
Expense attending this Excursion—Herculaneum, how discovered—description of that 
city—descent into the Theatre—Museum at Portici—Excursion to Pompeii—Destruc¬ 
tion of Torre del Greco, 4't‘- in 1<34—Least fatiguing method of seeing Pompeii—dis¬ 
covery of that city—Excavations made by the French—Present appearance of Pompeii 
—Objects best worth notice there—Customs and manners of the Moderns similar to 
those of the Ancients— Excursion to Prestum—time employed in going—expense—Cross 
road—great road—Nocera—Cava—Vietri—Salerno—Pzestum ; its supposed origin— 
Walls, Gates, Temples, 4c*—Sonnet—Eboli—Convent of La Trinita—Excursion by 
water to Sorrento—situation of that town—Accommodations—Antiquities—Climate— 
Description ofthe Plain of Sorrento, %c .—Character of the Sorrentines—Provisions—■ 
Lodging-houses—Massa—Arqalfi—Castel-a-mare—Capri—Excurion to the Islands of 
Procida and Ischia. 


I will now endeavour to give 
an account of the Environs of this 
City, which are peculiarly beauti¬ 
ful, and as peculiarly interesting-. 

EXCURSION TO BAIAS. 

We set out from Naples at nine 
in the morning in a close car¬ 
riage, which we hired for eight 
hours, to convey us to Pozzuoli, 
and wait there, till we had taken 
the usual round. We then drove 
to the end of the Riviera di 
Chiaja, got out of our carriage, 
and ascended from the Mergellina 
quarter to a Garden, where, si¬ 
tuated on the summit of the arch 
of that entry to the Grotto of Po¬ 
silipo which fronts the city, stands 
Virgil's Tomb: its shape ap¬ 


pears to have been a cylinder, 
with a dome, supported by a 
square base, and ten niches for 
cinerary urns: these, however, 
have disappeared ; as likewise lias 
the bay-tree by which this se¬ 
pulchre was once overshadowed. 
Virgil's tomb gave birth to four 
lines so beautiful that I cannot 
forbear inserting them: their au¬ 
thor was asked, “ whether lie 
would prefer Fame during life, or 
Renown after death ?” to which 
question lie answered thus: 

“ Virgilii ad tumulum divini premia 
Vat is, 

Extendit viridem laurea densa comam. 
Quid tibi defuncto heec prosit? felicior 
olim 

Sub patulcr fagi tegmine vivus erai k.” 

The garden which contains this 


(k) I was favoured by a friend, with the following imitation of these lines:— 
The glorious plant that crowns the poet’s head 
Still throws its fragrant leaves o’er Virgil dead; 

But to the lifeless eye, th’unconscious heart. 

What pleasure can its fragrant leaves impart? 

Far happier He when ’neath the beechen shade 
At ease outstretch’d, his living form was laid. 


251 


Ch. XI.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—BAIiE, $c. 


tomb commands a magnificent 
view ; and in an arbour here, im¬ 
mediately above the English bu¬ 
rial-ground, Travellers frequently 
dine. 

Returning to our carriage, we 
drove through the Grotto of Po- 
silipo 1 ; drawing up the glasses 
while we passed that part which 
is near Pozzuoli, and, at times, 
damp and unwholesome. Men¬ 
tion is made of this Grotto by 
Strabo, Seneca, Pliny, fyc. ; but 
by whom it was formed seems un¬ 
certain. At the entrance is a 
chapel; in the centre are two 
large funnels cut through the roof 
to admit light and air; and sus¬ 
pended over the road are lamps 
always kept burning. The length 
of the Grotto is computed to be 
two thousand three hundred and 
sixteen feet, its breadth twenty- 
two, and its height in the most 
lofty part eighty-nine feet. After 
emerging from this singular ca¬ 
vern we passed the Island of 
Nisi da, formerly Nesis, where 
Marcus Brutus had a villa ; and 
where now is the Lazzaretto ; 
and then, on arriving at Poz¬ 
zuoli, (called, by the Greeks, 
Diccearchia m , and, by the Ro¬ 
mans, Puteoli,) we engaged a 
guide, ordered a boat for Raise, 
fyc.; and a donkey to go round 
by land to the Luerine Lake: ive 
likewise ordered the guide to pur¬ 
chase a couple of torches for the 
subterranean part of our intended 
excursion; and, while the boat 
was preparing, visited the objects 
best worth notice at Pozzuoli. 
The Cathedral, once a Temple 

(/) Tiavcriq t» jf XuTrvs, the ancient ap¬ 
pellation given to this part of the environs 
of Naples, means a cessation from sor¬ 
row: and no spot can exhibit more cheer¬ 
ful beauty than does the hill of Posilipo. 

. (m) Ainaiag%ut. 


consecrated to Augustus, exhibits 
large square stones joined to ■ 
gether without cement, and some 
remains of Corinthian columns, 
all of which appear to have be¬ 
longed to the ancient edifice. In 
the principal Piazza stands a Pe¬ 
destal of white marble, found in 
1693; on which are represented 
figures in basso-rilievo personify¬ 
ing the fourteen cities of Asia 
Minor, that were, during one 
night, destroyed by an earth¬ 
quake, in the reign of Tiberius ; 
and re-built by that Emperor. 
In the same Piazza is an antique 
Statue, bearing the name of Q. 
Flavio Maesio Egnatio Lolliano : 
and not far distant is the Temple 
dedicated to the Sun, under the 
name of Jupiter Sera pis n , a 
magnificent edifice erected during 
the sixth century of Rome; but 
partly thrown down and com¬ 
pletely buried by an earthquake, 
till the year 1750, of the Christian 
tera ; when it was fortunately dis¬ 
covered by a peasant, who espied 
the top of one of the columns a 
few inches above-ground ; in con¬ 
sequence of which, an excavation 
was begun, and the temple dis¬ 
played to view, almost entire: in¬ 
deed, had those parts which were 
thrown down by the earthquake 
been restored to their proper 
places, this building would have 
exhibited the most perfect, and 
one of the noblest vestiges of an¬ 
tiquity yet discovered^—but, alas, 
the Kings of Spain and Naples, 
instead of restoring, or even leav¬ 
ing things in the state wherein 
they were found, have taken 

(?/) This name is probably derived from 
two Hebrew words denoting the burning 
fire, or substance .—See Park hurst’s 
‘Hebrew Lexicon, 7th edit. 8vo., p. 316. 

The Temple of Jupiter Serapis is seen to 
peculiar advantage by torch-light. 


252 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—BAIzE, $c. [Ch. XI. 


away columns, statues, all, in 
short, that they deemed worth 
removal: neither have they exca¬ 
vated sufficiently; as the front of 
the principal entrance does not ap¬ 
pear to be yet unburied: enough, 
however, meets the eye, to form 
one of the most interesting ob¬ 
jects imaginable. This temple is 
an hundred and thirty-four feet 
long, by an hundred and fifteen 
feet wide, its form being qua¬ 
drangular. Its pavement consists 
of beautiful marbles, with which 
the whole edifice appears to have 
been lined: three of its columns 
alone remain standing; and these 
have been robbed of their capi¬ 
tals : each shaft is one solid piece 
of cipollino. Four flights of 
marble steps led to the middle 
part of the Temple ; which part 
was sixty-five feet in diameter, 
and of a circular form • and near 
the site of one of the flights of 
steps arc two rings of Corinthian 
brass, to which the victims des¬ 
tined for slaughter were probably 
fastened : the receptacles for their 
blood and ashes still remain ; as 
do the bathing rooms for the 
priests, which arc nearly perfect. 
The quantity of water in and 
about this Temple, added to the 
circumstance of there being, within 
its walls, upward of thirty small 
apartments, several of which re¬ 
semble baths, induces a belief that 

(o) The water adjoining to this temple is 
now used for medicinal purposes. 

(j>) The earthquake which produced 
Monte Nuovo ingulphed the village of Tri- 
pergole, fdlcd up great part of the Lucrine 
Lake, and probably destroyed the oyster- 
beds for which it was celebrated by the 
Latin poets. 

(q) According to Pliny a dolphin, dur¬ 
ing the reign of Augustus, frequented this 
Lake; and was rendered so tame by a 
boy, that he would sit upon the tish’s back, 
and actually cross the Lake in this manner. 

(r) Supposed to be the crater of an ex¬ 
tinct volcad'o. 


the Sick and Infirm resorted 
hither, to bathe in consecrated 
water, which the priests provided; 
obtaining, no doubt, thereby, a 
considerable revenue °. 

Not having time to visit the 
Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli, we 
embarked in our little vessel, and 
examined the Piers of the an¬ 
cient Mole, a magnificent work, 
supposed to have been constructed 
by the Greeks, and repaired by 
the Roman Emperors, and to 
which Caligula joined bis bridge 
of boats. Then leaving on the 
right, Monte Nuovo, (formed A.D. 
153S, in thirty-six hours, by a 
volcanic explosion p,) we landed 
at the Lucrine Lake T ; between 
which and the Lake Avernus r , 
Agrippa opened a Canal of com¬ 
munication, forming of both the 
Julian Port. Hence we pro¬ 
ceeded to the Lake Avernus, the 
Tartarus of Virgil, described in 
the sixth book of the iEneid; 
and once so noxious, that if 
birds attempted to Hy over it, 
they dropped down dead 3 . We 
observed on its banks, the ruins 
of a Temple, supposed to have 
been dedicated either to Proser¬ 
pine or Pluto ; and then walked, 
through a shady and beautiful 
path, to the Grotto of the Cu- 
mcean Sibyl; which led from Vir¬ 
gil's Tarturus to the Cocytus, 
Acheron 1 , Styx, Elysium, $-c. 

(■<!) Ancient historians assert that no fish 
could exist in this Lake: at present, how¬ 
ever, it abounds with fish; and many 
aquatic birds not only fly over it, but re¬ 
pose unhurt upon its bosom. It was origi¬ 
nally called Aornos, a Greek word, which 

means without birds.- - See Lucret. 

lib. vi. 

( t) The Acheron was the Pains Ache - 
rvsiu of the ancients ; called, by Virgil, 
from the blackness of its water, Palus 
Tenebrosa. The Lake of Fusaro is situated 
on the Palttde Acherusia s and, at cer¬ 
tain seasons, a TraiteUr resides, near tins 
Lake, and supplies Travellers with dinner. 



253 


Oh. XT.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—BALE, §c. 


Phrough this Cavern, (the Grotto 
of Posilippo in miniature,) we 
walked, preceded by men carry¬ 
ing- lighted torches, till we came 
to what are called the Sibyl's 
Baths ; which consist of three small 
Chambers adorned with Mosaics ; 
but now nearly tilled two feet 
deep with water ; so that we were 
obliged to mount our donkey by 
turns, in order to penetrate them: 
having accomplished this, we sent 
the donkey by land to Pauli; re¬ 
embarking ourselves, and rowing 
to Nero's Villa ; where we land¬ 
ed again, to visit the Vapour 
Baths; which are, however, so 
intensely hot, that it is imprudent 
to examine them from motives of 
mere curiosity. They are used 
by the Neapolitans, during sum¬ 
mer ; and the water here boils an 
egg in two minutes. On re-iin- 
barking for Baiae, we observed 
other Hot Baths , which belonged 
to Nero’s Villa; and the steps 
which led from that edifice to the 
sea ; together with the Ruins of 
Caesar's Villa, situated upon the 
north point of the Bay of Baiae. 
Here we again quitted our boat, 
and walked to the Temple of 
Venus Genitrix; a beautiful 
ruin, the outside of which is oc¬ 
tagonal, the inside circular. 7he 
Garden immediately behind this 
temple contains chambers, called 
Le Carnere di Venere, which ex¬ 
hibit remains of stucco Ornaments 
finely executed ; and adjoining to 
these chambers ar eRuins of Pub¬ 
lic Baths. Hence we proceeded 
to the temples of Mercury and 
Diana Baiana ; the first of which 
is a circular edifice, nearly perfect; 
with an .aperture in its dome si- 

(») This building contained Reservoirs of 
purified water, for the use of the Roman 
Fleet : which water, from being purified ere 
it entered the reservoirs, was not liable to 


milar to that of the Pantheon: 
the second is a fine ruin ; and ap¬ 
pears to have been hexagonal 
without; but, like the temple of 
Venus, circular within. Some 
writers imagine these three tem¬ 
ples, as they are now called, made 
part of the public Baths. Getting 
again into our boat, we saw the 
Villa of Marius, and the Pis¬ 
cinae of Hortensius ; the foun¬ 
dations of which may still be 
discerned under water; and then, 
re-landing at Bauli, ascended to 
the Villa of Lucullus; where 
Tiberius expired. The substruc¬ 
tions of this Villa, and the cele¬ 
brated Reservoir, called Piscina 
Mirabile u , consisting of forty- 
eight piers, merit observation ; 
as does the neighbouring Cape of 
Misenum, whose harbour con¬ 
tained the Roman Fleet, com¬ 
manded by Pliny the elder, at the 
time of that eruption of Vesu¬ 
vius which buried Herculaneum, 
Pompeii, and Stabiie. Misenum 
was the principal Port of the Ro¬ 
mans in the Tyrrhene sea; as 
Ravenna was in the Adriatic; and 
from the summit of the hill on 
which stand the ruins of the Villa 
of Lucullus we had a fine view of 
the former Port, the Stygian 
Lake, (for such, according to Vir¬ 
gil, is the Mare inorto, or third 
basin of this harbour,) and the 
Elysian Fields v , situated on the 
banks of the Mare morto. Re¬ 
turning from the summit of the 
hill, we visited the Cento Came- 
relle , supposed to have been a 
prison ; and consisting of a large 
number of small subterranean 
apartments vaulted, and lined 
with plaster. After seeing what 

become putrid when kept in barrels. 

( t ) The Elysian Fields are supposed to 
have been a Roman Burial Ground for per- 
sons of opulence. 


254 


ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—CUM/E, <?-<-. [Ch. XI. 


appears to have been the Guard¬ 
rooms, we descended into the 
Vaults, by the aid of torches; 
and then walked back to the Ma¬ 
rina di Bauli; observing-, on our 
way, a double row of Colum¬ 
baria ; and visiting- lastly what 
is called 11 Sepolcro d'Agrip¬ 
pina ; though probably it was a 
Corridor of the Theatre which 
belonged to her Villa ; for, ac¬ 
cording* to Tacitus, she was pri¬ 
vately buried, after having been 
killed by order of Nero • and the 
identical spot which enclosed her 
remains is unknown w . 

Having refreshed ourselves with 
a cold dinner, which we brought 
from Naples, we embarked for 
Pozzuoli ,* and on arriving there, 
ordered our carriage to be g*ot 
ready, while we visited the Am¬ 
phitheatre. This edifice has suffer¬ 
ed considerably from earthquakes ; 
but is, nevertheless, better preserv¬ 
ed than any other ancient structure 
at Pozzuoli. Its form is an oval 
of two stories high; its arena is 
about an hundred and ninety feet 
long, by an hundred and thirty feet 
wide ; the walls of the building 
are composed of large square 
stones ; and the number of spec¬ 
tators it contained was forty-five 
thousand. Near this spot is a 
subterranean Ruin, called 11 La- 
berinto di Uedalo; but more 
probably a Reservoir for the wa¬ 
ter used in the amphitheatre x . 

(to) Many persons extend this excur¬ 
sion, by visiting the Theatre of Misenum, 
of which part of the Proscenium, the De¬ 
clivity for Seats, and the Corridors re¬ 
main; and by likewise visiting the 
Grotta Traconura , a vast reservoir un¬ 
der the Promontory, and the Fish Ponds 
of Lucullus under its western side. Pliny 
says, the fishes in these Reservoirs, be¬ 
longing to the Roman Villas at Baits, were 
so tame that they fed out of the hand; and 
when called by their feeders leaped out of 
the water; that each fish knew its name; 


EXCURSION TO CUMyE, &>C. 

Again we left Naples at nine in 
the morning, in a carriage hired 
for six hours: and, on arriving at 
the gate of Pozzuoli, engaged a 
Cicerone, with whom we proceeded 
to the Solfatara ; in order to see 
the process of making alum, vitriol, 
and sal-ammoniac, from the volca¬ 
nic substances found in the crater. 
We then visited Cicero's Villa, 
of which a Wine-Cellar alone re¬ 
mains ; the stately porticos and 
spacious gardens described by 
Pliny, being all swept away by 
the hand of Oblivion. Cicero 
called this Villa The Academia, 
from having composed his Acade¬ 
mic Questions here; and in this 
Villa died the Emperor Adrian; 
to whose memory Antoninus Pius 
erected a stately Temple to serve 
the purpose of a tomb. Pro¬ 
ceeding toward the Arco Felice, 
we were presented with an inter¬ 
esting anti picturesque view from 
the banks of the Lake Avernus, 
comprehending Monte Nuovo, the 
Temple supposed to have been 
dedicated either to Proserpine, or 
Pluto ; the Lucrine Lake, with 
part of Baiae, Misenum, Capri, 
fyc., and previous to arriving at 
the Arco Felice avc discovered 
traces of the Aqueduct which con¬ 
veyed water to Cumae, and the 
neighbouring Villas. The Arco 
Felice, or Gate of Cumce, served 

and that several of them were adorned 
with necklaces and ear-rings. 

(x) Our expenses, during this excursion, 
were as follow : 

Carriage, piastres, 3. Buona-mano to 
coachman, carlini,3. Boat, with four oars, 
piastres, 3. Cicerone, piastre, 1. Temple 
of Jupiter Sernpis, carlini, 2. Baths of 
Nero, ditto, 4. Camere di Venere, ditto, 2. 
Cento Camerelle, ditto, 2. Piscina Mira- 
bile, ditto, 2. Donkey and Guide, ditto, 10 . 

It is not necessary to have a boat with 
four oars, unless the party be large. 


Ch.XT.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—LAKE DAGNANO, $c.255 


also for a Citadel and an Aque¬ 
duct ; and its summit, if the day 
be clear, exhibits a fine view of 
the Circean Promontory, and the 
Islands of Ischia, Ponza, and 
Vandolena; the last of which was 
the ancient Pandataria, whither 
Julia was banished. Remains of 
the Via Consularis , leading - from 
Pozzuoli to Cumae, are discover¬ 
able on each side of the Areo Fe¬ 
lice ; after passing - through whu'di, 
and turning to the right, we ob¬ 
served a Ruin, called the Temple 
of the Giants, because some co¬ 
lossal statues were found within 
its walls: here likewise are con¬ 
siderable remains of the Currtaean 
Aqueduct. We proceeded next 
through what appears to have 
been one of the Streets of Cumce, 
to the Castle; which, judging 
from the large stones that com¬ 
pose it, was a Grecian work ; and 
which, during the fifth century, 
when Alaric, King of the Westra- 
goths, subdued this country, was 
ill such good condition that he de¬ 
posited the spoils of his conquests 
here, as a place of strength. After 
examining this Ruin, we ascend¬ 
ed the Hill above it ; where, ac¬ 
cording to Virgil, Daedalus alight¬ 
ed, after his flight from Crete, 
consecrated his wings to Apollo, 
and built a temple to that god: 
but the only antiquities now re¬ 
maining here are Paths and Re¬ 
servoirs for water. From the sum¬ 
mit of this hill the Acheron is dis¬ 
coverable toward the south ; and 
about four miles northward stands 
the Torre di Patria, on the site 
of the ancient Liternum, whither 
Scipio Africanus retired; and 
where he died. After descending 
from the height which exhibits 


this prospect, we visited a Grotto, 
called that of the Sibyls Cumea 
and Cuniana; and then returned 
to Naples by the Lake of Fusaro. 
The last-named Grotto is supposed 
to communicate with that on the 
margin of the Lake Avernus; and 
contains an ancient Staircase , 
leading to several ancient Baths'?. 

EXCURSION TO THE LAKE D’AG- 
NANO, SfC. 

We hired a carriage for four 
hours ; drove to the village imme¬ 
diately beyond the Grotto of Po- 
silipo; inquired for the keeper of 
the Grotto del Cane ; and told 
him we were going thither ; first, 
however, stopping at the Logo 
d' Agnano, once the crater of a 
volcano, as appears by its form; 
and likewise by the volcanic sub¬ 
stances that compose its environs. 
On the banks of this Lake are 
some remains of a Villa which 
belonged to Lucullns, who open¬ 
ed a communication between the 
sea and this lake ; converting the 
latter into a Reservoir for fish. 
Contiguous to the ruins of this 
Villa are the Vapour Baths of S. 
Germano, frequented, during sum¬ 
mer, by persons afilicted with the 
rheumatism. Hence we proceeded 
to the Grotto del Cane, the me¬ 
phitical air of which throws a dog 
into convulsions, extinguishes a 
lighted torch, and prevents a pis¬ 
tol from going off: but the first 
being a cruel experiment, we con¬ 
tented ourselves with witnessing 
the two last. Our next object 
was the Pisciarelli; a rivulet of 
boiling water, issuing from the 
base of the cone of the Solfatara, 
and, in distance, about a mile from 
the Lago d’Agnano. This water 


(v) To the Cicerone who attended us during this excursion we gave ten 
carlini; he furnishing torches for the Grotto of the Sbiyls. 


2 56 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—CASERTA, 8>-c. [Ch. XI. 


l)oils an egg in eight minutes, and 
is strongly impregnated with alum 
and vitriol; the latter of which 
preponderates to such a degree as 
to produce ink, when mixed with 
galls. Every little aperture in 
the earth round this hill exhibits 
sulphur crystallized, sal-ammoniac, 
vitriol, §c. Having satisfied our 
curiosity here, we proceeded to 
Astroni, a romantic crater of an 
extinct volcano, now converted 
into a royal hunting park. The 
crater is walled round at its sum¬ 
mit (to prevent the game it con¬ 
tains from escaping,) and com¬ 
puted to be about four miles and 
a half in circumference. The in¬ 
terior part exhibits solid lava, 
scoriae, tufo, pumice, and other 
productions usually found in ac¬ 
tive volcanos 2 . 

EXCURSION TO CASERTA, SfC*. 

Caserta is about sixteen miles 
from Naples, and so near to mo¬ 
dern Capua that, by sleeping at 
the latter town, we made this ex¬ 
cursion on our way from Naples 
to Rome. On arriving at Caserta 
we ordered a pair of fresh horses 
to take us to the Aqueduct, which 
is about five miles further offh¬ 
and near three hours must be em¬ 
ployed in order to see it well, and 
return to Caserta. The hill we 
ascended on our way, exhibits an 
extensive and beautiful prospect of 
the Campania Felice. On arriving 
at the Aqueduct, the Keeper con¬ 
ducted us along the top of part of 
that structure; showing us the 
course of the water at one of the 
turrets. Hence we descended 
through the passages of the two 

(z) To the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane, 
and Vapour Baths, vve gave six carlini; 
and to the Keeper at Astroni two carlini. 


loftiest rows of arches, and pro¬ 
ceeded to the centre-arch, to read 
the inscriptions ; afterward taking 
a more distant view of this mag¬ 
nificent work, which extends twelve 
miles in a straight line, and twen¬ 
ty-six computing its sinuosities. 
Charles hi. erected it, employing 
as his architect the Cav. Vanvi- 
telli. On our return to Caserta 
we visited the Palace, built like¬ 
wise by Vanvitelli, at the command 
of Charles hi. ; and deemed, in 
point of size and architecture, the 
most splendid royal residence ex¬ 
isting : its form is rectangular ; its 
length seven hundred and forty- 
six feet, its breadth five hundred 
and seventy-six, and its height 
one hundred and thirteen feet. 
The great Court or entrance to 
this edifice is five hundred and 
seven feet in length, and particu¬ 
larly magnificent; so likewise is 
the great Staircase. The Vesti¬ 
bule to the chapel, and the Chapel 
itself, highly merit notice ; and 
the latter contains, in the royal 
gallery, a fine picture by Mengs. 
The large Theatre is adorned with 
twelve columns of basalt, taken 
from the Temple of Jupiter Sera- 
pis, and may vie, in point of size 
and splendour, with several of the 
public theatres of Europe: but 
the royal apartments in this pa¬ 
lace, though vast, and beautifully 
proportioned, are so ill furnished 
as to be little worth attention. 
On our way to modern Capua we 
passed through what is supposed 
to have been the ancient Town , 
and observed a sepulchral Monu¬ 
ment on the left, and another on 
the right; the latter being low, 
and of a circular form, with niches 

(«) It is not necessary to carry a cold 
dinner to Caserta, the inn there being to¬ 
lerably good. 


257 


Ch. XI.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—VESUVIUS. 


for cinerary urns b . The remains 
of the Amphitheatre likewise lie 
on the right, close to the road ; 
and the exterior Wall, the colossal 
Busts in the key-stones of the 
arches, the three Corridors, the 
four principal Entrances, the de¬ 
clivity tor the Seats, the Staircases 
and Arena, are all discoverable. 
Between this Amphitheatre and 
modern Capua are remains of an 
Arch , supposed to have been one 
of the Gates of the ancient town ; 
which, if this be its site, was si¬ 
tuated four miles from Caserta, 
and one mile and a half from mo¬ 
dern Capua, between the rivers 
Volturno and Clanio. 

EXCURSION TO VESUVIUS. 

Wishing- to see a slig-ht erup¬ 
tion of Vesuvius, which happened 
in November ISIS, we hired a 
carriage to go to Resina (five miles 
distant from Naples) ; took with 
us a basket of cold meat, bread, 
and wine, together with six 
torches 0 ; and set out five hours 
before sun-set. When arrived at 
Resina, we drove to the house of 
Salvatore, the best Cicerone of 
the mountain ; and after dismiss¬ 
ing our carriage, and giving di¬ 
rections that it should be ready 

f - (b) Remains of a Crypto-Porticos are 
supposed to be discoverable on this side of 
the road. 

(<•) These torches are eighteen grani each, 
if bought at Naples ; and threecarlini each, 
if bought at Resina. 

( d) Persons who ascend and descend 
Vesuvius by day-light usually give, for 
each donkey and guide, eight carlini; for 
each chaist-d-porteur, with six men, four 
ducats ; and to the Cicerone twelve car¬ 
lini. Sometimes, however, six piastres are 
demanded for a chuise-u-porteur during 
the night, and four piastres during the day. 

Persons who wish to see what is called 
The Grotto , on Vesuvius, should provide 
themselves with a cold dinner; and set 
out, from Naples, about nine in the morn¬ 
ing, for the house of Salvatore, at Resina ; 
thence proceeding on donkejs to the Hcr- 


again in seven hours at the same 
place, to convey us home, we re¬ 
quested Salvatore to provide us 
with mules, g'uides, and one chaise- 
u-porteur; and likewise to un¬ 
dertake to pay the guides himself; 
that we might not be importuned 
for more than the proper price, 
namely, each donkey and guide 
one ducat, and each chaise-a- 
porteur, with eight men, six 
ducats. To the Cicerone it is 
customary to give from twelve to 
fifteen carlini d . From Resina to 
the Hermitage on Vesuvius our 
mules conveyed us in two hours ; 
anti, after resting a short time, 
proceeded with us for about half 
an hour longer ; when we dis¬ 
mounted, and were either carried 
in the chaise-a-porteur, or walked 
up toward the crater. This walk 
was extremely fatiguing, and oc¬ 
cupied a full hour: but when we 
reached the little plain on Vesu¬ 
vius, our labours were richly re¬ 
compensed by the sight of five 
distinct streams of fire issuing 
from two mouths, and tumbling 
wave after wave, slowly down the 
mountain, with the same noise, 
and in the same manner, as the 
melting Glaciers roll into the Val¬ 
ley of Chamouni; indeed, while I 

milage ; and, after dining there, proceeding 
again on donkeys to the Grotto; about an 
hour’s ride, on a good road. Donkeys 
cannot go nearer than the foot of the hil¬ 
lock on which the Grotto is situated : per¬ 
sons, therefore, who resolve to examine 
this curious production of Vesuvius, must 
walk about a quarter of a mile up a very 
steep ascent. When I made this excursion 
I returned, after examining the Grotto, to 
the Hermitage : where I remained, till it 
became quite dark ; viewing the eruptions 
of the mountain ; and then walked down 
to Resina, by torch-light. I paid for my 
donkey and guide twelve carlini; for wine, 
and the use of a room with a fire, twelve 
carlini; and to the Cicerone twelve car¬ 
lini for himself, and six for the use of his 
torches. 


S 


258 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—HERCULANEUM. [Ch. XL 


contemplated this awful and ex¬ 
traordinary scene, I could have 
fancied myself transported to the 
base of the Montanvert, had it not 
been for the crimson glare and ex¬ 
cessive heat of the surrounding 
scoriae. 

After resting ourselves some 
time, we descended, by a path 
knee deep in ashes, to the spot 
where we had left our mules; 
thence proceeding, on foot, till 
within a short distance of the Her¬ 
mitage ; when we mounted the 
mules, and returned to Resina. 

It is advisable for persons who 
ascend Vesuvius to provide them¬ 
selves with strong boots, and stout 
walking sticks ; unless they re¬ 
solve to he carried the whole way 
in chairs ; which, though practi¬ 
cable, is expensive. 

EXCURSION TO HERCULANEUM, 

AND THE MUSEUM AT POR- 

TICI. 

Herculaneum was situated about 
five miles from Naples: and the 
present descent into this entombed 
city is at Resina. We took wax 
torches with us ; because the Ci¬ 
cerone seldom provides a sufficient 
number: and we likewise put on 
thick shoes, and wrapped ourselves 
up ; because the air of Hercula¬ 
neum is damp, and the pavement 
wet in several places. This city, 
according to Dionysius of Halicar¬ 
nassus, was founded by Hercules e . 
The Alexandrian Chronicle men¬ 
tions it as having been built sixty 
years before the siege of Troy • 
Pliny and Floras speak of it as a 
great and flourishing city; and 
some authors conjecture that 

( e ) Perhaps founded in honour of the 
Sun ; as the word Hercules appears to be 
derived from a Hebrew compound, mean¬ 
ing universal fire, and allusive to the at- 


it was the Capua whose luxuries 
ruined Hannibal’s army f . Dion 
Cassius gives the following account 
of its destruction ; which happen¬ 
ed on the twenty-fourth of August, 
in the year seventy-nine. “ An 
incredible quantity of ashes, car¬ 
ried by the wind, filled air, earth, 
and sea; suffocating men, cattle, 
birds, and fishes, and burying two 
entire cities, namely, Herculaneum 
andPompeii, while their inhabitants 
were seated in the theatres.” The 
people of Herculaneum, however, 
must have found time to escape ; 
as very few skeletons, and very 
little portable wealth, have been 
discovered in those parts already 
excavated. Some quarters of the 
city are buried sixty-eight feet 
deep in ashes and lava; others 
above an hundred. This seems, 
from Dion Cassius, to have been 
the first great eruption of Vesuvius 
that the Romans witnessed; though 
there undoubtedly were volcanos 
in the adjoining country, from 
ages immemorial. The last named 
author says, that the ashes and 
dust ejected by Vesuvius darkened 
the sun at Rome ; and were car¬ 
ried by the wind to Egypt: and 
Giuliani asserts, that during the 
eruption ot 1631, the ashes were 
carried to Constantinople in such 
quantities as to terrify the Turks. 
The spot where Herculaneum 
stood was not ascertained till the 
beginning of the last century; but, 
about the year 1713, a peasant, 
while sinking a well at Portici, 
found several pieces of ancient 
mosaic, which happened to be at 
that time sought for by the Prince 
d’Elbeuf, who was building a house 
in the neighbourhood. The Prince, 

tributes of the sun. 

U ) ^*>e Via Appia having passed through 
it, is, I believe, one reason for this con¬ 
jecture. 


Ch. XI.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—HERCULANEUM. 259 


wanting'these fragments of marble 
to compose a stucco in imitation 
of that used by the Ancientsg, 
purchased, of the peasant, a right 
to search for them; on doing 
which, he Avas recompensed with 
a statue of Hercules, and another 
of Cleopatra: this success encou¬ 
raged him to proceed with ardour; 
when the architrave of a marble 
gate, seven Grecian statues, re¬ 
sembling Vestals, and a circular 
Temple, encompassed by twenty- 
four columns of oriental alabaster 
on the outside, the same number 
within, and likewise embellished by 
statues, were the reward of his 
labour: in short, the produce of 
these excavations became consi¬ 
derable enough to attract the at¬ 
tention of the Neapolitan Govern¬ 
ment: in consequence of which, 
the Prince d'Elbeuf was com¬ 
manded to desist ; and all re¬ 
searches were given up, till the 
year 17.3G ; when Don Carlos, on 
becoming King of Naples, wished 
to build a palace at Portici; and 
purchased, of the Prince d’Elbeuf, 
iiis lately erected house, together 
with the ground whence he had 
taken so many valuable antiqui¬ 
ties. The King now made an ex¬ 
cavation eighty feet deep, and dis¬ 
covered buried in the earth an en¬ 
tire city; together with the bed 
of a river which ran through it, 
and even part of the water: he 
also discovered the Temple of Ju¬ 
piter, containing a statue reputed 
to be gold : and afterward laid 
open the Theatre, directly over 
which the peasant’s well was found 
to have been sunk. The inscrip¬ 
tions oil the doors of this Theatre, 
fragments of bronze horses gilt, 
and of the car to which they be¬ 
longed (decorations probably of 


the grand entrance), together with 
a considerable number of statues, 
columns, and pictures, were now 
brought to light; but, nevertheless, 
in the year 1785, not more than 
fifty labourers were employed in 
making these valuable excava¬ 
tions; in 17(h), the number was 
reduced to ten; and, in 17 76, 
to three or four. Resina (an¬ 
ciently Ret inti) and Portici being 
built immediately over Hercula¬ 
neum, the workmen could not 
venture to excavate as they would 
have done had the surface of the 
earth been less encumbered ; con¬ 
sequently the plans of Hercula¬ 
neum and its edifices are not accu¬ 
rate: it is, however, ascertained 
that the streets were wide, straight, 
paved with lava, and bordered 
with raised footways ; that the 
buildings are composed of tufo 
and other volcanic substances ; the 
interior walls adorned with fres¬ 
cos, or stained with a deep and 
beautiful red colour ; the architec¬ 
ture Grecian, and, generally speak¬ 
ing, uniform. The rooms in pri¬ 
vate houses were small, and either 
paved with mosaics, or bricks three 
feet long, and six inches thick. It 
does not appear that the generality 
of the people had glazed windows ; 
though some excellent plate glass 
has been found in Herculaneum ; 
but almost every window seems to 
have been provided with wooden 
shutters, pierced so as to admit 
light and air. The most consi¬ 
derable edifice yet discovered is a 
Forum, or Clialcidicum. This 
building seems to have been a rec¬ 
tangular court, two hundred and 
twenty-eight feet long, and en¬ 
compassed with a portico support¬ 
ed by forty-two columns: it was 
paved with marble, and adorned 


(g ) The first coat of ancient slncco appears to have been made of small pieces of 
brick, or marble, mixed with pozzolana and lime. 

s 2 


230 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—HERCULANEUM. [Ch. XI. 


with paintings. The portico of 
entrance was composed of five 
arcades, ornamented with eques¬ 
trian statues of marble ; two of 
which, the celebrated Balbi, have 
been already described. Oppo¬ 
site to the entrance, and elevated 
upon three steps, was a statue of 
the Emperor Vespasian ; and on 
each side a figure in a curule 
chair: in the wall were niches 
adorned with painting’s, and bronze 
statues of Nero and Germanicus: 
there likewise were other statues 
in the portico. This Forum was 
connected, by means of a colon¬ 
nade, with two Temples, in form 
rectangular ; .and one of them an 
hundred and fifty feet long; the 
interior part being ornamented 
with columns, frescos, and inscrip¬ 
tions in bronze ; and near these 
edifices was an open Theatre, ca¬ 
pable of containing ten thousand 
spectators, and the only building 
now discoverable ; all the other 
excavations having been filled up. 
By a passage close to the Pea¬ 
sant’s Well we descended into 
this Theatre. The front of the 
stage seems to have been deco¬ 
rated with columns, statues, fyc., 
all of which are taken away, two 
inscriptions excepted. The Pro¬ 
scenium was found entire ; and is 
an hundred and thirty feet long. 
Part of the stage, and the base of 
one of the columns of flowered ala¬ 
baster, with which it was adorned, 
were likewise discovered ; and in 
front of the stage, according to 
De la Lande, were bronze sta¬ 
tues of the Muses. Fragments 
also were found of bronze horses, 
supposed to have decorated 
the top of the wall which 
terminated the seats. All, how¬ 
ever, which we were able to dis¬ 


cern was the Stage, the Orchestra, 
the Consular Seats, and Prosce¬ 
nium ; together with the Corri¬ 
dors or lobbies; some parts of 
which exhibit beautiful Arabes¬ 
ques, and Stucco stained with the 
dark red colour already mention¬ 
ed: we likewise saw the impres¬ 
sion of a human Face on the ceil¬ 
ing of one of the lobbies. This 
theatre appears to have been lined 
with Parian marble, and built 
about the same time with that at 
Verona, after the designs ofNu- 
misius. 

Persons who are fearful of en¬ 
countering a damp and oppressive 
atmosphere, should not venture 
down into Herculaneum ; espe¬ 
cially as there is, in the Studii, a 
model of this city ; which, in its 
present state, appeared to us more 
calculated to appal than please ; 
particularly when we heard the 
carriages at Portici rolling over 
our heads like thunder, and felt 
conscious of being buried ourselves 
eighty feet deep in lava h . 

From Herculaneum we pro¬ 
ceeded to the Museum at Portici; 
which, being a part of the royal 
Palace, -cannot be seen without 
an order from the Lord High 
Steward. This Museum consists 
chiefly of Paintings found in Her¬ 
culaneum and Pompeii: and judg¬ 
ing from the heauty of the compo¬ 
sition, and the unskilfulness of the 
execution, many persons think 
that several of them are copies, 
done by common house-painters, 
from the most renowned pictures 
ot antiquity. The composition of 
Apollo and the Muses (now, I 
believe, in Paris,) is said to be so 
exquisite, that were an artist to 
study for years he could not change 
any one fold in the drapery to ad- 


0'0 We gave six carliui between the two guides who accompanied us down into 

Herculaneum. 


261 


MUSEUM OF PORTICI. 


Ch. XI.] 

vantage ; and the execution is said 
to be so bad, that more than an 
hour could not have beenemployed 
upon each figure*. The subjects 
of the most celebrated Paintings 
are supposed to be; Dido aban¬ 
doned by /Eneas !—the seven days 
of the week, represented by the 
seven planets—Theseus with the 
Minotaur dead at his feet—Her¬ 
cules and Telephus—Telephus 
suckled by a deer, or Latinus son 
of Faunus, King of the Abori¬ 
gines, an allegorical painting rela¬ 
tive to the origin of the Romans—■ 
the Centaur, Chiron, teaching 
Achilles to strike the lyre, ascribed 
to Parrhasius ; though, more pro¬ 
bably, copied from a work by that 
artist !—Hercules strangling the 
serpents sent by Juno to destroy 
him—Iphigenia discovering Ores¬ 
tes—Orestes and Pylades chained, 
and conducted, by the soldiers of 
King Thoas, before the statue of 
Diana—a Parrot drawing a car, 
and a Grasshopper driving ; sup¬ 
posed to be a copy from Zeuxis ; 
who was famous for these 'whim¬ 
sical subjects !—a Faun and a 
Bacchante—small pictures ofRope 
dancers, Bacchantes, fyc., one of 
whom holds a musical instrument 
used by the Neapolitans to this 
day—a Bacchante carried off by 

( i ) The pictures found in Herculaneum 
and Pompeii, except those clone on marble, 
and now in the Studii at Naples, were all 
painted on the walls of private houses and 
public edifices; and according to the opi¬ 
nion of \\ inckelmann, not much more an¬ 
cient than the Augustan age; at which 
period Painting was in its wane. This art, 
though the offspring of Sculpture, did not 
take birth till after its parent had reached 
maturity; for the Jupiter of Phidias, and 
the Juno of Polycletes, deemed Ghefs-d’oeu- 
vres of sculpture, existed before the in¬ 
vention of Painting. Apollodorus and his 
disciple Zeuxis, who flourished in the fif¬ 
teenth Olympiad, were the first painters 
who distinguished themselves in the style 
called clair-obscur: and Euphranor, the 
contemporary of Praxiteles, and conse¬ 
quently posterior to Zeuxis, is supposed to 


a Centaur—another Centaur car¬ 
rying off a Youth -small paintings 
representing Children engaged in 
various occupations—quadrupeds, 
birds, fishes, fruits, Sfc .—a female 
Centaur with a Nymph (Zeuxis is 
supposed to have invented female 
Centaurs)—a female Centaur and 
a Youth ; she holds a cymbal of 
gilt bronze ; the thrones of Mars 
and Venus, with their attributes, 
are in the same picture !—Boys 
making wine; this painting exhi¬ 
bits an ancient wine-press—Boys 
engaged in other occupations— 
a naval Combat, ill done, but 
curious, because it exhibits ancient 
galleys, and the mode of fighting 
them—a Landscape with trees, 
and a temple ; in the centre of 
which last is a buckler ornamented 
with the head of Medusa ; it being 
an ancient custom to suspend vo¬ 
tive bucklers in public edifices— 
an Egyptian landscape—a Croco¬ 
dile hunt—Crocodiles and Hippo¬ 
potami—(from the latter, says 
Pliny, man learnt the art ofbleed- 
ing himself; as this animal, when 
too full of blood, presses its foot 
against pointed reeds, by which 
means the operation is performed.) 
The education of Bacchus, sup¬ 
posed to he the copy of a-fine 
original!—Iphigenia ready for sa- 

liave enriched the growing art by the intro- 
Auction of symmetry, shading, and perspec¬ 
tive. Painting, nevertheless, made a much 
slower advance toward perfection than did 
Sculpture; because the latter, from its 
birth, became a necessary appendage to 
heathen worship : whereas the former did 
not acquire the privilege of entering conse¬ 
crated edifices till after it had reached its 
meridian. In course of time, however, 
some of the Grecian temples became Pina- 
cothecae; and, at Rome, the w orks of cele¬ 
brated painters were exhibited in the tem¬ 
ple of peace ; but it does not appear that 
the pictures of heathen deities were ever 
adored like their statues ; and, consequently, 
there is reason to suppose that Painting, 
from want of the same encouragement, did 
not arrive, in ancient days, at the same 
height of perfection with Sculpture. 


232 


MUSEUM OF PORTXCI. 


crifice, supposed likewise to be the 
copy of a tine original!—a Bac¬ 
chanalian ceremony, in which 
three fig's are offered to the g'od ; 
the number three being- sacred and 
typical among - the heathens—a gar¬ 
den ; (it is curious to observe, in this 
and other pictures, that the ancient 
Roman gardens were precisely 
what Italian gardens are now.) 
Four Pictures in one, namely, a 
hare and a fowl, a pheasant, and 
two apples, three birds and some 
mushrooms, two partridges and 
three fishes : (the hare, by ancient 
epicures, was deemed the best 
quadruped, and the thrush the best 
bird.) Diana !—a Citharist, sup¬ 
posed to be Sappho, near whose 
left ear is a flower, the sign of a 
lady of pleasure—Hylas and Ga¬ 
nymede, the latter of whom holds 
a fan of peacock’s leathers, which 
fans were used by the great people 
of antiquity to chase away flies ; 
and are still carried in grand pro¬ 
cessions at Rome, to hinder those 
troublesome insects from annoying 
the Pope—A. Woman looking at 
herself in a mirror of yellow metal 
—(Pliny, however, mentions mir¬ 
rors of green glass, the first of 
which was made at Sidon : Nero 
had an emerald mirror. The Ro¬ 
man ladies are said to have carried 
these mirrors always about them ; 
it likewise appears that they used 
false hair, false teeth, false eye¬ 
brows and eye-lashes, pomatum, 
rouge, and white paint; and they 
frequently stained their hair.) A 
young Female with light hair, the 
sig-n of a lady of pleasure—Bac¬ 
chus—the Grecian horse brought 
into Troy—markets, shops, and 
schools, situated under porticos, 
as was the custom in Greece and 
Rome—a two-wheeled carriage, 
for the conveyance of baggage, 


[Ch. XI. 

with a postilion on one of the 
horses, a mule saddled, and a blind 
man conducted by a dog—a man 
riding one, and guiding three 
horses—(the Romans frequently 
used to ride two, and even four 
horses at once, leaping from one 
to the other with extraordinary 
agility.)'—Five Etruscan Priests, 
three*of whom arc crowned with 
tiaras, the High Priest’s being 
gold—Peace or Peleus, supposed 
to have invented the poniard— 
a Female seated, with two lyres 
and a garland, the lyre being sig¬ 
nificant of harmony, union, and 
conjugal love, perhaps because the 
M use Erato is said to have insti¬ 
tuted marriage.—A theatrical re¬ 
presentation of a Man in a scoffing 
mask making horns, and showing 
them to a woman who hides her 
face ; this was the custom of the 
Greeks—two paintings of theatri¬ 
cal representations, in one of 
which is a Youth in a half-mask ; 
the only thing of the kind yet 
discovered—a Poet, supposed to 
be JEschylus, dictating a drama to 
the tragic Muse—Psyche and a 
winged Genius, with a shoe on his 
head and another in his hand, both 
resembling ours of the present day— 
an Egyptian temple—the worship 
of Osiris—a caricature of the Cae¬ 
sars, representing ZEneas, his fa¬ 
ther, and son, as impure deities with 
dogs’ heads. Drawing in carica¬ 
ture seems to have been common 
among the ancients; who frequently 
compared men to, and represent¬ 
ed them under the forms of, 
beasts k . 

Several of these paintings have 
lately [been removed to the Studii, 
at Naples; whither, according to 
report it is the intention of the Nea¬ 
politan Government to remove 
the whole. 


(/t) The Custode of this Museum expects from three to six carlini, according to the 

size of the party he attends. 


Cli. XL] DESTRUCTION OF TORRE-DEL-CRECO. 263 


EXCURSION TO POMPEII. 

We made the same bargain with 
respect to our carriag e as when we 
went to Caserta ; for though Pom¬ 
peii is only thirteen miles and a 
half distant from Naples, the lat¬ 
ter excursion requires more time 
than the former. We took with 
ns a cold dinner, wine, plates, 
knives, forks, glasses, fyc.; as 
nothing, except water, can he pro¬ 
cured at Pompeii. The road lies 
through Portici, Torrc-del-Greco, 
and Torre-del- Annunziata; in the 
way to the first of which, is the 
Ponte Maddalena, under whose 
arches passes the Sebeto, an¬ 
ciently Sebeth us. The commence¬ 
ment of this drive exhibits gardens 
and vineyards of the most luxu¬ 
riant description: but, nearTorre- 
del-Greco, almost the whole coun¬ 
try has been laid waste by streams 
of lava, which, during the summer 
of 1794, destroyed that town and 
its vicinity. Vesuvius had for 
some time ceased to vomit fire and 
smoke as usual; a circumstance 
that generally presages mischief: 
and late in the evening of Thurs¬ 
day, June the 12th, the inha¬ 
bitants were alarmed by a sudden 
and violent shock of an earthquake, 
which was thrice repeated, conti¬ 
nuing each time about three mi¬ 
nutes and as many seconds. This 
first calamity produced a general 
consternation ; insomuch that the 
people fied from their houses into 
their gardens, and thence to the 
sea-side; where they passed the 
night in dreadful alarm. Next 
morning processions ot men, wo¬ 
men, and children, were seen bare¬ 
footed in the streets of Naples, pro¬ 
ceeding to the Cathedral, to im¬ 
plore the protection of S. Gennaro. 
From Thursday till Sunday the 
weather was tempestuous, the air 


hot, loaded with vapours, and, at 
intervals, suddenly darkened for 
some minutes ; during which pe¬ 
riod there were several slight 
shocks of an earthquake, attended 
by a rumbling sound, like distant 
thunder. On Sunday evening the 
inhabitants were again alarmed 
by a noise so violent that it re¬ 
sembled a continual discharge of 
cannon; when, in a moment, 
burst forth a volcano, not in the 
crater on the summit of Vesu¬ 
vius, but toward the middle of the 
mountain, on the western side. 
The explosion made every edifice 
tremble in Torrc-del-Greco, which 
is only five horizontal miles from 
this new volcano, at whose mouth 
issued a column of smoke, that 
continually mounted, and increas¬ 
ed in magnitude, till it formed it¬ 
self into the shape of an immense 
pine. This column was sometimes 
clearly distinguished; and at others 
obscured by ashes: it continued 
augmenting rapidly in circumfer¬ 
ence, till at length it began to de¬ 
cline downward ; when, from the 
quantity of dense matter which 
composed the column being much 
heavier than the air, the former, 
of course, fell to the ground. Tor¬ 
rents of flaming lava of a por¬ 
tentous magnitude now poured 
down the mountain, principally in 
two directions; one stream, of 
about a mile in breadth, bending its 
destructive course toward Torrc- 
del-Greco, a town said to contain 
eighteen thousand persons, the 
other taking the direction of Re¬ 
sina ; while several small rivulets 
of liquid fire were observed in di¬ 
vers places. Torre-dcl-Greco soon 
fell a prey to the lava ; which, in 
its progress, desolated the whole 
hill leading down from Vesuvius, 
sweeping away every house, so 
that the terrified inhabitants were 


Srtl DESTRUCTION OP TORRE-DEL-GRECO. [Ch. XI. 


compelled to abandon their all, 
and take refuge in Naples. At 
length, the lava, after three hours’ 
devastation, ran into the sea ; on 
whose banks, for one-third of 
a square mile, it raised itself a 
bed from fifteen to twenty Neapo¬ 
litan palmi 1 above the level of 
the water; and as much, if not 
more, above the level of the streets 
of Torre-del-Greco. The reflection 
from this torrent of lava illumi¬ 
nated the whole city of Naples, 
and filled its inhabitants with 
dread ; while the other torrent, 
which flowed toward Resina, on 
arriving at the gate divided itself 
into three streams, one running 
between the gate and the Con¬ 
vent de’ Padri Francescani; the 
second to the Piazza; and the 
third to the Convent del Car¬ 
mine, near Torre del Annunziata. 
Wherever the lava ran, it covered 
the country with a crust from 
twenty to thirty palmi deep: in 
and about Resina it left, for a 
short time, some few isolated 
buildings, namely, the Palazzo- 
Brancaccia, the Chiesa de' Mari- 
nari, and the Convent de’ Fran¬ 
cescani ; but these soon caught 
fire ; and five women with one old 
man, after vainly ringing the church 

(l) A Neapolitan pal-mo is rather more 
than ten English inches. 

(m) I cannot dismiss this subject without 
mentioning an extraordinary circumstance 
■which occurred at Pienza, near Siena, 
just before the destruction of Torre-del- 
Greco. Professor Santi, of Pisa (a gentle¬ 
man whose na:ne 1 have already men¬ 
tioned), resided at Pienza when this cir¬ 
cumstance happened; and to him 1 was 
obliged for the following particulars, which 
may serve to rescue many ancient histo¬ 
rians from the reproach of credulity. 

On the 16th of June a dark and dense 
cloud was discovered at a great height 
above the horizon, coming from the south¬ 
east, that is, in the direction of Vesuvius; 
which may be about two hundred hori¬ 
zontal miles distant from Pienza. At this 
height the cloud was heard to issue noises 
like the discharge of several batteries of 


and convent-bells for assistance, 
saved themselves by flight. The 
Palazzo-Caraceiolo now tell a prey 
to the flames ; as did every other 
building in the neighbourhood ot 
Resina, till the whole surrounding, 
plain exhibited one vast sheet ot 
lava. The town of Torre-del- 
Greco likewise was completely bu¬ 
ried ; some few tops of the loftiest 
buildings excepted; while every 
part of the country through which 
the lava ran became a desert ; the 
trees being thrown down, the 
bouses razed, and the ground, tor 
many miles distant, covered with 
cinders and ashes ; which last lay 
about one finger deep in Naples. 
On the sixteenth of June the air 
was so dense as nearly to obscure 
the mountain ; but, next day, the 
fire made itself new channels; 
which circumstance might, pro¬ 
bably, be the preservation ot se¬ 
veral fine buildings near Resina m . 

The approach from Torre del 
Annunziata to Pompeii is through 
the Suburb anciently called Pagus 
Augustus Felix, and built on each 
side of the Via Appia, which, trom 
the commencement of this Suburb 
to the Herculaneum-Gate, is flank¬ 
ed by a double row of Tombs. 

Pompeii appears to have been 

cannon; it then burst into flames; at 
which moment fell a shower of stones for 
seven or eight miles round; while the 
cloud gradually vanished. These stones 
are volcanic ; being composed of grey 
lava, resembling what is found on Vesu¬ 
vius : and Mr. Santi, who took infinite 
pains to investigate this phenomenon, felt 
confident that the cloud rose from Vesu¬ 
vius, which was, at that moment, disgorg¬ 
ing fires whose force and effects cannot be 
calculated : it could not have arisen from 
Radicofani; because, though this mountain 
is one continued mass of volcanic rocks, 
which bespeak it the offspring of subter¬ 
ranean fire, and though it has been some¬ 
times visited by dreadful earthquakes, still, 
neither history, nor even tradition, records 
that it ejected flames, smoke, or vapour, at 
any period whatsoever. 


Ch. XL] 

populous and handsome: it was 
situated near the mouth of the 
Sarnus, (now called Sarno,) and 
the walls which surrounded the 
city, were above three miles in cir¬ 
cumference, and arc supposed to 
have been originally washed by 
the sea, though now about one 
mile distant from its margin. Pom¬ 
peii (as already mentioned,) was 
buried under ashes and pumice- 
stones, and at the same time de¬ 
luged with boiling water, during 
the year 79, and accidentally dis¬ 
covered by some peasants in 1750, 
while they were employed in cul¬ 
tivating a vineyard near the Sarno. 
The excavation of Herculaneum 
was attended with much more ex¬ 
pense than that of Pompeii, be¬ 
cause the ashes and pumice-stones 
which entombed the latter were 
not above fifteen feet deep, and so 
easy was it to remove them, that 
the Pompeians who survived the 
eruption of the year 79, evidently 
disinterred and took away a large 
portion of their moveable wealth ; 
though, generally speaking, they 
seem to have made no efforts to¬ 
ward repairing the mischief done 
to their houses ; an extraordinary 
circumstance, as the roofs only 
were destroyed n . The most in¬ 
teresting parts, hitherto restored 
to light, of this ill-fated city, have 
been disinterred by the French, 
who uncovered its Walls, Amphi¬ 
theatre, Forum-Civile, Basilica, 
and adjoining Temples, together 
with the double row of Mausolea, 
on the outside of the Herculaneum- 
Gate. Still, however, several 
streets remain buried, but excava¬ 
tions are going on daily ; and, 
were a thousand labourers em¬ 
ployed, it is supposed that the 

(«) Suetonius says, that Titus endeavoured 
to repair the devastation made by Vesuvius 


265 

whole town might be uncovered in 
a twelvemonth. 

The streets are straight, and 
paved with lava, having on each 
side a raised footway, usually com¬ 
posed of pozzolaria and small 
pieces of brick or marble. The 
Via Appia (which traverses the 
town, and extends to Brundusium,) 
is broad, but the other streets are 
narrow ; carriage - wheels have 
worn traces in their pavement, and 
judging from these traces, it ap¬ 
pears that the distance between 
the wheels of ancient carriages 
was not four feet. The houses 
hitherto excavated are, generally 
speaking, small ; most of them, 
however, were evidently the habi¬ 
tations of shopkeepers : but those 
few which belonged to persons of 
a higher class, were usually adorn¬ 
ed with a vestibule, supported by 
columns of brick, each house pos¬ 
sessing an open quadrangle, with 
a supply of water for domestic 
purposes in its centre ; and on the 
sides of the quadrangle, and be¬ 
hind it, were baths and dressing- 
rooms, sitting-rooms, bed-cham¬ 
bers, the chapel which contained 
the Lares, the kitchen, larder, 
wine-cellar, tyc., none of which 
appear to have had much light, 
except what the quadrangle af¬ 
forded, there being, toward the 
streets, no windows. The walls 
of every room are composed of 
tufo and lava, stuccoed, painted, 
and polished, hut the paintings in 
the large houses arc seldom supe¬ 
rior in merit to those in the shops; 
perhaps, however, the ancient 
mode of painting houses, like that 
now practised in Italy, was with 
machines called stamp!; which 
enable the common house-painter 

at Pompeii : but, if lie succeeded, subse¬ 
quent eruptions demolished his work. 


POMPEII. 


265 


POMPEII. 


to execute almost any figure or 
pattern upon fresco walls. The 
ceilings are arched, the roofs flat, 
and but few houses have two sto¬ 
ries. The windows, like those in 
Herculaneum, appear to have been 
provided with wooden shutters, 
and some of them were furnished 
with glass, which seems to have 
been thick and not transparent, 
while others are supposed to have 
been glazed either with horn or 
talc. Every apartment is paved 
with mosaics ; and on the outside 
of the houses, written with red 
mint, are the names of the inha- 
utants, with their occupations, 
including magistrates, and other 
persons of rank : so that if the 
stucco on which these names were 
written had been well preserved, 
we should, at the present moment, 
have known to whom each house 
in Pompeii originally belonged. 
All the private houses are num¬ 
bered : and on the exterior walls of 
public edifices are proclamations, 
advertisements, and notices with 
respect to festivals, gladiatorial 
shows, $c. The public edifices 
were spacious and elegant, and 
the whole town was watered by the 
Sarno, which seems to have been 
carried through it by means of 
subterranean canals. 

I will now mention the objects 
best worth notice, as they lie con¬ 
tiguous to each other. 

Villa of Diomedes. The first 
building disentombed at Pompeii 
was this Villa, the skeleton of 
whose master, Marcus Arrius Dio¬ 
medes, was found here, with a key 
in one hand, and gold ornaments 
and coins in the other. Behind 
him was found another skeleton, 

( o ) One of the apartments in the Villa of 
Diopicdcs has windows looking toward the 
garden. 

(p) A Triclinium means the place where 


[Ch. XI. 

probably that of his servant, with 
vases of silver and bronze: and 
in three subterranean Corridors, 
which appear to have been used 
as cellars, seventeen skeletons 
were discovered, one of which, 
adorned with gold ornaments, is 
conjectured to have been the mis¬ 
tress of the Villa, and the others 
her family. This edifice lias two 
stories. On the ground-floor are 
several rooms nearly in their ori¬ 
ginal state, as are the Garden and 
the Cellars, the first of which is 
surrounded with Colonnades, and 
has a Pergola and a reservoir for 
water in its centre ; the latter, 
wherein the seventeen skeletons 
were found, contain wine-jars, 
filled with, and cemented to the 
walls by, ashes. The upper story 
exhibits Paintings, mosaic pave¬ 
ments, hot and cold Baths, with 
Furnaces for heating water. Part 
of the ancient Roof of this Villa is 
likewise preserved: and, on the 
opposite side of the Via Appia, 
are the Tombs of the Family of 
Diomedes °. 

Building appropriated to the 
Silicernium a fter funerals. This 
is a small Structure (on the right, 
between the Villa of Diomedes and 
the Herculaneum-Gate); its inte¬ 
rior was stuccoed and adorned with 
paintings (now obliterated,) of 
birds, deer, and other ancient em¬ 
blems of death ; it contains a Tri¬ 
clinium, or eating table, whereon 
the Silicernium, or funeral repast, 
was served p. There are places for 
three mattresses round this table, 
and in the wall was a recess, where 
probably the bust of the deceased 
might be exhibited to the guests. 
The recess is now destroyed. 

the Greeks and Romans reposed on mat¬ 
tresses while they ate, and was so called 
because it held three mattresses only. 


POMPEII. 


2G7 


Ch. XI.] 

Repository for the ashes of the 
dead. This edifice, wherein the 
ashes of persons who had not pri¬ 
vate tombs are supposed to have 
been deposited, has, on its sum¬ 
mit, an ornament shaped like an 
altar, and adorned with bassi- 
rilievi emblematical of death. 

Semicircular roofed Seat. On 
the left side of the Via Appia is a 
deep Recess, decorated with stucco 
ornaments: it seems to have been 
a covered seat for foot-passengers; 
and here were found the skeletons 
of a mother with her infant in her 
arms, and two other children near 
her. Three gold rings (one being 
in the form of a serpent,) and two 
pair of ear-rings, enriched with 
fine pearls, were found among these 
skeletons. Opposite to this semi¬ 
circular seat, and at a small dis¬ 
tance from the Via Appia, are 
ruins of a Villa supposed to have 
belonged to Cicero. 

Inn. This appears to have 
been a large building, provided 
with horses, carriages, <^-c.; and 
situated on the outside of the city, 
because Strangers were not per¬ 
mitted to sleep within its w r alls. 
Remains of the wheels of carriages, 
the skeleton of a donkey, and a 
piece of bronze, resembling a 
horse’s bit, were found here. 

Columbarium, called the Tomb 
of the Gladiators. This Sepul¬ 
chre, which stands on the right of 
the Via Appia, particularly merits 
notice ; because its interior is per¬ 
fect, and contains a considerable 
number of places, (shaped like 
pigeon-holes,) for cinerary urns. 

Semicircular Seat , not roofed. 
On the back of this Seat is the 
following inscription, in capital 
letters ; as, indeed, are all the in¬ 
scriptions at Pompeii: “ Mam- 
MliE P.F. Sacerdoti Pvblicae 
LOCVS SeFVLTVRAE DATVS De- 


cvrionvm Decreto.” Behind 
the Seat stands the Tomb of 
Mammia, which appears to have 
been handsomely built, and ele¬ 
gantly ornamented. Further on, 
near the Herculaneum-Gate, is 
another semicircular Bench ; and 
to the left of the Via Appia, on 
the outside of the Gate, is a Path 
leading to a Sally-Port ; by the 
steps of which, it is easy to ascend 
to the top of the Ramparts. 

Here ala ne u m- Gate. There were 
four entrances to Pompeii, namely, 
the Herculaneum-Gate; theSarno, 
or Sea-Gate ; the Isiac-Gate, (so 
called because near the Temple of 
Isis;) and the Nola-Gate: all of 
which entrances were apparently 
devoid of architectural decorations, 
and composed of bricks, stuccoed. 
The Herculaneum-Gate is divided 
into three parts: the middle di¬ 
vision, through which passes the 
Via Appia, is supposed to have 
been for carriages ; and one of the 
side entrances, for foot-passengers 
coming into the city; while the 
other was appropriated to foot- 
passengers going out of it. The 
Via Appia is about twelve feet 
wide, and composed of large vol¬ 
canic stones of various shapes and 
sizes, fixed deep into a particularly 
strong cement. The footways on 
either side of this street are be¬ 
tween two and three feet in width. 

Post-House. This is the first 
Building on the right, within the 
Gate: and as Augustus established 
posts, or what was tantamount, on 
all the Consular roads, making 
Pompeii one of the stations, this 
building probably was a Post- 
House : several pieces of iron, 
shaped like the tire of wheels, 
were found here. In a House on 
the opposite side of the way are a 
Triclinium, and some Paintings 
which merit notice. 


23 8 


POMPEII. 


Built ling commonly called a 
Coffee-house <1; but more probably 
a Thermopolium , or Shop, for hot 
medicated potions. Here we find 
a Stove ; and likewise a marble 
Dresser, with marks upon it, evi¬ 
dently made either by cups or 
glasses ; and consequently the con¬ 
tents of these cups, or glasses, 
when spilt, must have been, (as 
medicated draughts frequently are) 
corrosive. On the opposite side 
of the Street is a House which, 
according- to an inscription nearly 
obliterated, belonged to a person 
named Albinus: and several amu¬ 
lets, representing birds, tortoises, 
dolphins, and other fishes, in gold, 
silver, coral, and bronze, were 
found here 1 ’. Adjoining is another 
Thermopolium. 

House of Cains Ceius. This 
Edifice, which stands opposite to 
a Fountain, and is now occupied 
by Soldiers, appears to have con¬ 
tained public Baths. Not far dis¬ 
tant is an Edifice, adorned with a 
Pavement of tine marble, and a 
good Mosaic, representing a Lion. 
This quarter of the town likewise 
contains subterranean Structures, 
wherein the citizens of Pompeii 
are supposed to have assembled, 
during very hot or rainy weather, 
to transact business. This de¬ 
scription of building was called 
a Crypto-Porticus ; and usually 
adorned with columns, and fur- 

( q ) Coffee is a native of Africa, supposed 
to have been unknown to the Greeks and 
Romans; and not being mentioned by any 
European Writers engaged in the Crusades, 
it seems to have been equally unknown in 
Syria, during the thirteenth and fourteenth 
centuries. It is found wild, from (Jaffa, the 
South province of Narea, in Africa, to the 
banks of the Rile; and was first brought 
from Arabia into Europe about the middle 
of the fifteenth century. It was used at 
Grand Cairo early in the sixteenth cen¬ 
tury ; and first mentioned in the west of 
Europe by a German traveller, who re¬ 
turned from Syria in 1573. Pietro della 
Valle, a Venetian, gays, in a letter of his, 


[Ch. XL 

nished with baths and reservoirs 
for water. 

House called, the Habitation 
of the Festals. Here, according 
to appearance, were Three Habi¬ 
tations under the same roof; and 
likewise a Chapel, with a place for 
the sacred tire in its centre ; and, 
in its walls, three Recesses for the 
Lares. On the Door-sill of one 
of the apartments is the word, 
“ Salve,” (JVelcome,) wrought 
in mosaic: another Door-sill is 
adorned with two Serpents, also 
wrought in mosaic. A room of 
very small dimensions has, in the 
centre of its pavement, a Laby¬ 
rinth, or table for playing at an 
ancient game ; and the pavement 
of another room exhibits a Cornu¬ 
copia. The skeletons of a man 
and a little dog were found here: 
and in the apartment called the 
Toletta, several gold ornaments 
for ladies were discovered. Not 
far distant is an edifice which ap¬ 
pears to have been an Anatomical 
Theatre; as upwards of forty clii- 
rurgical instruments, some resem¬ 
bling those of the present day, and 
others quite different, were found 
within its walls. 

Ponderarium,or Custom-House. 
Here were found a considerable 
number of weights, scales, and 
steelyards, similar to those now in 
use at Naples ; together with one 
weight of twenty-two ounces, 

tliat be intended bringing some of it to 
^ enice, where lie thought it was unknown. 
This berry, which has now made its way 
through the w hole civilized world, was first 
brought into France during the year 1 (>-14; 
anil in 1(371, a coffee-house was opened at 
Marseilles. In 1052, Daniel Edwards, an 
English Merchant, brought with him, from 
Turkey, a Greek servant who understood 
the method of roasting and making coffee: 
and this servant was the first person who 
sold it publicly in Loudon. 

(r) The Ancients wore amulets round 
their necks, to preserve themselves from 
witchcraft. 


POMPEII. 


2,39 


Ch. XL] 

representing 1 the figure of Mer¬ 
cury. Near the Ponderarium is 
an Edifice which, judging by 
tlie materials discovered there, 
seems to have been a Soap- 
Manufactory ; and not far distant 
are two Shops for hot medicated 
potions. 

Public TlaJdng-TIouse. This 
Building contains an Oven ; toge¬ 
ther with Mills for pulverizing 
corn. Shops of a similar descrip¬ 
tion abound in Pompeii. 

Wine and Oil Shop. The 
Vessels which contained wine and 
oil may still be seen here, and in 
many other Shops of the same 
kind. Here likewise are Stoves ; 
with which these Shops seem usu¬ 
ally to have been furnished ; per¬ 
haps for the purpose of boiling 
wine 3 . 

llo use of Cains Sallust. Con¬ 
tiguous to the Wine and Oil Shop 

u 1 

is one of the largest Houses vet 
discovered at Pompeii ; and, ac¬ 
cording to the Inscription on its 
outside-Wall, once the abode of 
Cains Sallust. Here is a Tricli¬ 
nium, with places where mattresses 
appear to have been spread for the 
family to lie down while they ate. 
This Triclinium is in the back 
part of the House ; and, in an¬ 
other part, is a tolerably well pre¬ 
served picture of Diana and Ac¬ 
tion ; and likewise a small room, 
paved with African marbles, and 
adorned with a picture of Mars, 
Venus, and Cupid, well preserved, 
and executed in a style much su¬ 
perior to the generality of frescos 
found at Pompeii. In the Lara- 
rium, or Chapel for the Lares, a 
small statue was discovered ; as 
were some coins, and a gold vase, 
weighing three ounces: bronze 
vases likewise were found in this 

(.f) The Ancients, according; to Cluverius, 
were in the habit of boiling their wines. 


house: and four skeletons, five 
armlets, two rings, two ear-rings, 
a small silver dish, a candelabrum, 
several bronze vases, and thirty- 
two coins, were found in its vici¬ 
nity. 

Academy of Music. This Edi¬ 
fice appears to have been spacious; 
and its Quadrangle is ornamented 
with a painting of two Serpents 
twined round an Altar, above 
which is a Lararium. The large 
rooms exhibit paintings represent¬ 
ing musical instruments; and a 
piece of iron, which apparently 
belonged to a musical instrument, 
was discovered here. 

Jio use of Pansa. This is a 
good house, handsomely decorated 
with marbles and mosaics. In the 
centre of its Quadrangle are a 
Well and a small Reservoir for 
fish ; and in its Kitchen a Fire- 
Place, resembling what we find 
in modern Italian kitchens, and 
Paintings representing a spit, a 
ham, an eel, and other eatables. 
Here were found several culinary 
utensils, both of earthenware and 
bronze: and not far hence is a 
Shop, wherein a variety of colours, 
prepared for fresco-painting, were 
discovered 1 . 

Forum Civile. This is a very 
large oblong Piazza, which ap¬ 
pears to have been bordered with 
magnificent Porticos, supported by 
a double row of tufo and traver- 
tino columns, and paved with 
marble. One entrance to this 
Forum is through two Archways, 
the use of which is not apparent. 
Beyond the second Archway on 
the left, are remains of a Temple, 
supposed to have been consecrated 
to Jupiter, because a fine head of 
that heathen deity was found there. 
Several steps, now shaken to pieces 

( t ) These Colours are now placed in the 
Studii at Naples. 


270 


POMPEII. 


by earthquakes, lead to the Ves¬ 
tibule of this Temple, which seems 
to have been quadrilateral, spa¬ 
cious, and handsome, and its Celia 
is elegantly paved with mosaics 11 . 
On the right of these Ruins stands 
the Temple of Venus, exhibiting 
beautiful remains of its original 
splendour. r Phe shape of the edi¬ 
fice is quadrilateral; its dimensions 
are large, and its walls adorned 
with paintings. The Celia, which 
stands on fifteen steps, is paved 
with mosaics ; and in a contigu¬ 
ous apartment is a well-preserved 
painting of Bacchus and Silenus. 
Here likewise is a small Recess, 
supposed to have been a Larari- 
um. The lowerjiart of the Temple 
contains a Henna, resembling a 
Vestal, together with an Altar, 
(or perhaps the basis of the statue 
of Venus,) which seems to have 
slid from its proper place, in con¬ 
sequence of an earthquake. The 
steps leading to the Celia have the 
same appearance, and all the edi¬ 
fices in this part of Pompeii must 
have suffered more from the earth¬ 
quake which preceded the erup¬ 
tion of the year 79, than from that 
eruption itself, as the repairs go¬ 
ing on at the very moment of that 
eruption evidently prove. Beyond 
the Temple of Venus, and front¬ 
ing the Via Appia, stands the 
Basilica, or principal Court of 
Justice, a majestic structure, of a 
quadrilateral form, in length an 
hundred and ninety feet, and in 
breadth seventy-two. The walls are 
adorned with Corinthian pilasters, 
and the centre of the building ex¬ 
hibits a double row of Corinthian 

(u) Behind the Archways near tli)3 Temple 
are paintings, representative of Mars and 
Juno, a circumstance which induces some 
persons to suppose it was consecrated to 
the latter. 

(v) Antiquaries conjecture, that immedi¬ 
ately after the eruption of the year 79, the 


[Ch. XT. 

columns, twenty-eight in number 
The Tribunal for the judges, 
which stands at the upper end of 
the Court, is considerably elevated, 
and has, immediately beneath it, 
a subterranean apartment, sup¬ 
posed to have been a prison. In 
the court, and frontihg the Tri¬ 
bunal, is a large Pedestal, evi¬ 
dently intended to support an 
equestrian statue : and on an out¬ 
side wall of this structure, (that 
wall which fronts the house of 
Championet,) the word “ Basi¬ 
lica” may be discovered, in two 
places, written with red paint. Be¬ 
yond the Basilica, and fronting 
the Temple of Jupiter, are three 
large edifices, supposed to have 
been dedicated to public uses, and 
that in the centre was evidently 
unfinished, or repairing, when 
buried by the eruption of 79. On 
the side of the Forum, and oppo¬ 
site to the Basilica, arc edifices re¬ 
sembling' Temples; one of which, 
supposed to have been consecrated 
to Mercury, contains a beautiful 
Altar, adorned with bassi-rilievi 
representing a sacrifice. Marbles 
of various sorts, apparently pre¬ 
pared for new buildings, together 
with a Pedestal which seems, from 
the inscription it bears, to have 
supported the statue of Q. Sallust, 
and another Pedestal inscribed 
with the letters, “C. Cvspio C. 
F. Pans/e,” occupy the centre of 
the Piazza: and, judging from 
marks in the pavement, the en¬ 
trance to this Forum was occa¬ 
sionally closed with gates of bronze 
or iron 7 . 

Home of Championet, so called 

inhabitants of Pompeii disentombed the 
Forum Civile, and took away all its best 
statues and other decorations, a circum¬ 
stance which would easily account for the 
small number of moveable treasures found 
here, by' modern excavators. 


POMPETI. 


271 


Ch. XI.] 

because excavated by a French 
General of that name. This Ha¬ 
bitation appears to have suffered 
considerably from the earthquake 
of the year G3: it has a Vestibule 
paved with mosaics, and, in the 
centre of its quadrangle, a Reser¬ 
voir for the rain-water which fell 
on its roof; this Reservoir ap¬ 
pears to have had a covering. At 
the back of the house is another 
Vestibule : and under the sitting- 
rooms and bed-chambers (all of 
which are paved with mosaics, and 
more or less decorated with paint¬ 
ings,) are subterranean Offices, a 
rare thing at Pompeii. Skeletons 
of females, with rings, bracelets, 
and a considerable number of coins, 
were found in this house. 

Crypto-Porticus, and Chalci¬ 
dicum, built by Enmachia. In 
the Via Appia, and near the Fo¬ 
rum Civile, over the entrance to 
what seems to have been a co¬ 
vered passage, is the following in¬ 
scription : 

“ Enmachia. L. F. Sacerd. Publ. No¬ 
mine Suo et M. Nnmistr. 1 Frontonis.Fili. 
Chalcidicum Cryptam Porticus Concordige 
.Augusta; Pietati sua Pecunia Fecit Eadc- 
maque Dedicavit.” 

Just beyond this Passage, and 
leading to what appears to have 
been a Chalcidicum, is the Statue 
of a Female in a Vestal’s dress, 
with the following inscription on 
the pedestal: 

“ Eumachiae. L. F. 

Sacerd. Publ. 

Fullones.” 

This statue still remains on the 
spot where it was discovered in 
the summer of 1820: and, judging 
from the inscriptions, it seems that 
Enmachia, a public Priestess, 
built, at her own expense, in her 
own name, and that of another 

(«’) The Tomb of Eumachia stands just 
beyond the Walls of Pompeii, near the 


person, a Chalcidicum and Crypto- 
Porticus, and likewise paid for 
having them consecrated to the 
use of the Pompeian washerwomen, 
by whom, as a token of gratitude, 
her statue was erected. The 
Chalcidicum fa spacious Piazza,) 
was adorned with Colonnades 
elevated on steps, some parts of 
which are cased with white marble, 
and other parts unfinished: but 
the marble slabs, prepared for 
casing the unfinished parts, were 
discovered on an adjacent spot, 
where they may still be seen. The 
centre of the Chalcidicum evidently 
contained a large sheet of water, 
in which w r ere several Washing- 
Blocks, cased with white marble ; 
these Blocks, and the Channel 
through which the water was con¬ 
veyed into this spacious basin, 
still remain, as does a small 
Temple, fronting the Forum Ci¬ 
vile, from which there seems to 
have been an entrance into the 
Chalcidicum w . 

Continuation of the Via Ap¬ 
pia. On each side of this Street 
are Shops and other buildings, 
which exhibit the names and oc¬ 
cupations of the persons by whom 
they were once inhabited: these 
names, fyc., are written with red 
paint ; and the Wall, fronting the 
Via Appia, and belonging to the 
Chalcidicum, displays the ordinan¬ 
ces of the magistrates, the days 
appointed for festivals, fyc., like¬ 
wise written with red paint. Here 
are Bakers’ Shops, containing 
Mills for pulverizing corn ; Oil 
and Wine Shops ; a House adorn¬ 
ed with pictures of heathen divi¬ 
nities ; and another House ele¬ 
gantly painted, and supposed to 
have belonged to a Jeweller. In 
this Street, and likewise in other 

Hercnlaneum-Gate, and appears to have 
been erected by the public. 


272 


POMPEII. 


parts of the town, are several 
Fountains, which were supplied 
by water brought in a canal from 
the Sarno: and at the lower end 
of the Street, near the Portico 
leading- to the Tragic Theatre, 
was found, in 1812, a skeleton, 
supposed to be the remains of a 
Priest of Isis, with a large quan¬ 
tity of coins, namely, three hun¬ 
dred and sixty pieces of silver, 
forty-two of bronze, and eight of 
gold, wrapped up in cloth so 
strong as not to have perished dur¬ 
ing more than seventeen centu¬ 
ries. Here likewise were found 
several silver vases, some of them 
evidently sacrificial, and belonging 
to the Temple of Isis ; small silver 
spoons, cups of gold and silver, a 
valuable cameo, rings, silver bassi- 
rilicvi, fyc. 

Portico ornamented with six 
Columns of Tufo. The Capitals 
of the Columns which supported 
this Portico appear to have been 
handsome, and its front, according 
to an inscription on a Pedestal 
that still remains, was adorned 
with the statue of Marcus Clau¬ 
dius Marcellus, son of Caius, Pa¬ 
tron of Pompeii. The statue, 
however, has not been found. Be¬ 
yond this Portico is a long Co¬ 
lonnade, leading to the Tragic 
Theatre. 

Temple of Hercules. This 
Edifice, apparently more ancient 
than any other Temple at Pom¬ 
peii, is said to have been thrown 
down by the earthquake of the 
year 63 x , rebuilt, but again de¬ 
molished in 79. The ruins prove, 
however, that it was once a stately 
Doric structure, which stood on a 
quadrilateral platform, with three 
streps on every side leading up to 

(x) This earthquake is mentioned by Se¬ 
neca. 

( y) The Altare, so called, because high , 


[Ch. XI. 

it. The platform still remains, 
and is ninety feet long, by about 
sixty feet wide. Traces of gigantic 
Columns also remain ; and beyond 
the Platform, and nearly fronting 
the east, are three Altars: that in 
the centre is small, and probably 
held the sacred fire ; those on the 
sides are large, low, and shaped 
like sarcophagi: the latter kind 
of altar, called Ara, being, when 
sacrifices were made to the ter¬ 
restrial deities, the place on which 
the victim was burnt y. Behind 
these Altars is a Receptacle for 
the sacred ashes ; near the Temple 
is a Burial-place, and on the left, 
a semicircular Bench, decorated 
with lions' claws carved in tufo: 
it resembles the scats near the 
Herculaneurn-Gate. 

Upper entrance to the Tragic 
Theatre. This wall has been re¬ 
stored, and, beyond it, are steps 
leading down to the Postscenium 
of the Tragic Theatre ; and like¬ 
wise to the Forum Nundinarium ; 
so called because a market was 
held there, every ninth day. Not 
tar hence was the great Reservoir 
of the water of the Sarno, which 
supplied the lower part of the city, 
and particularly the Forum Nun¬ 
dinarium. 

Tribunal, or Curia of Pom¬ 
peii. This is an oblong Court, 
surrounded by Porticos; and con¬ 
taining a Rostrum, built of pepe- 
rino, with steps ascending to it. 
Tribunals were usually placed 
near Forums and Theatres: and 
this Tribunal is supposed to have 
been erected by a family who like¬ 
wise built at their own expense, 
the Tragic Theatre ; and a Cryp- 
to-Porticus, in order to adorn the 
Colony. 

was the place where sacrifices were offered 
to the celestial deities. 


POMPEII. 


273 


Ch. XT.] 

Temple of Isis. It appears, 
from an inscription found here, 
that this edifice was thrown down 
by the earthquake of G3, and re¬ 
built by Numerius Popidius Celsi- 
nus. It is sixty-eight feet long, by 
sixty feet wide ; in good preserva¬ 
tion ; and peculiarly well worth 
notice: for to contemplate the 
altar whence so many oracles have 
issued, to discern the identical 
spot where the priests concealed 
themselves, when they spoke for 
the statue of their goddess, to 
view the secret stairs by which 
they ascended into the Sanctum 
Sanctorum ; in short, to examine 
the construction of a Temple 
more Egyptian than Greek, ex¬ 
cites no common degree of inter¬ 
est 1 . This Temple is a Doric 
Edifice, composed of bricks, stuc¬ 
coed, painted, and polished. The 
Sanctum Sanctorum stands on 
seven steps, (once cased with Pa¬ 
rian marble,) its form being near¬ 
ly a square: its Walls, which are 
provided with niches for statues, 
display, among other ornaments 
in stucco, the pomegranate, called, 
in Greek, Roia , and one of the 
emblems of Isis. The pavement 
is Mosaic. Here, on two altars, 
were suspended the Isiac Ta¬ 
bles : and two quadrangular ba¬ 
sins of Parian marble, to contain 
the purifying water, were like¬ 
wise found here ; each standing 
on one foot of elegant workman¬ 
ship, and bearing this inscription ; 
“ Longinus ii Vir.” On the 
high altar stood the statue of Isis ; 
and immediately beneath this al¬ 
tar are apertures to the hiding- 

( z ) The traffic between the Pompeians 
and Alexandrians is supposed to have given 
rise to the worship of Isis at Pompeii. 

(a) A profound silence was observed 
durin Egyptian sacrifices. 

(b) The priests, in these paintings, are re¬ 


place for the priests ; contiguous 
to which, are the secret Stairs. 
The lower end of the Temple, 
fronting the Sanctum Sanctorum, 
contains the Altars whereon vic¬ 
tims were burnt; together with 
the Receptacles for their ashes, 
and the Reservoir for the purifying 
water. A figure of Harpocrates 
was found in a niche opposite to 
the high altar a . Other parts of 
the Temple contain simaO altars, 
a Kitchen, in which were found 
culinary utensils of creta cotta , 
(containing ham-bones and re¬ 
mains of fishes,) together with the 
skeleton of a priestleaning against 
the wall, and holding in his hand, 
a hatchet. Here also is a Refec¬ 
tory, where the priests were dining 
at the moment of the eruption which 
entombed their city ; and where 
chickens’ bones, eggs, and earthen 
vessels, were discovered: burnt 
bread was likewise found here ; 
together with the skeletons of 
priests who either had not time to 
make their escape, or felt it a duty 
not to abandon their goddess. 
When this Temple was excavated, 
its walls exhibited paintings of 
Isis with the sistrum, Anubis with 
a dog's head, priests with palm- 
branches and ears of corn, and 
one priest holding a lamp b ; the 
Hippopotamus, the Ibis, the lotus, 
dolphins, birds, and arabesques. 
Most of these, however, have been 
removed to Naples ; as have the 
statues of Isis, Venus, Bacchus, 
Priapus, and two Egyptian idols, 
in basalt, which were likewise 
found here. Sacrificial vessels of 
every description, candelabra, tri- 

presented with beads shaved, garments of 
white linen, and woven shoes, through 
which the feet were seen : history, how¬ 
ever, Tells us, that the priests of Jsis w ere 
obliged to walk barefooted. 


T 


274 


POMPEII. 


pods, and couches for the gods, 
were also discovered in this Tem¬ 
ple c . 

Not far hence is an Edifice 
which, judging by the rings of 
iron found in its walls, was pro¬ 
bably the Receptacle for beasts 
destined to be slain on the lsiac 
altars. 

Temple o f JEsculapins. The 
centre of this little building con¬ 
tains a large low Altar, made 
with tufo, and shaped like a sar¬ 
cophagus. The Celia is placed 
on nine steps ; and seems, if we 
may judge by the traces of co¬ 
lumns still discernible, to have 
been covered with a roof. Here 
were found statues of iEscula- 
pius, Hygeia, and Priapus, all in 
creta cotta. 

Sculptors Shop. Several sta¬ 
tues were discovered here; some 
being finished, others half finished, 
and others only just begun. Se¬ 
veral blocks of marble, and various 
tools, now preserved in the Nea¬ 
politan Academy of Sculpture 11 , 
were likewise discovered here. 

Comic Theatre. This Edifice, 
built of tufo, and supposed to have 
been the Odeum for music, is 
small, but nearly perfect; and 
was covered with a roof resting 
upon columns, between which, 
were apertures for light. Here 

(c) One of these couches was made of 
ivory, and too much injured to admit of 
reparation : the other, made of bronze, has 
been restored ; and is now placed in the 
Musco Borbonico, at Naples. 

(d) This academy is under the same roof 
with the Museo Borbonico. 

( e ) The orchestra (°£X eta ® al ) of the 
Greeks is supposed to have been what, in 
modern continental theatres, we call the 
parterre: the Proscenium seems to have 
been what we denominate the orchestra; 
the Scenium was the stage ; and the Post- 
scenium the place where the machinery of 
the theatre was prepared for exhibition, 
and where the actors dressed. 

(/) Roofed theatres were not common 
among the Ancients; whose theatrical re¬ 


[Ch. XI 

arc the places for the Proconsul, 
and Vestals ; the Orchestra 6 ; the 
Proscenium, the Scenium, and 
the Postscenium ; together with 
all the Benches, and Staircases 
leading to them, for male specta¬ 
tors ; and another Staircase lead¬ 
ing to the Portico, or Gallery, 
round the top of the Theatre ; in 
which Gallery the females were 
placed. The Orchestra is paved 
with marble, and exhibits the fol¬ 
lowing Inscription in bronze ca¬ 
pitals. 

“ M. Ocvlati vs M. F. Vervs 
ii Vir pro Lvdis.” 

and on the outside of the edifice 
is another Inscription, mentioning 
the names of the persons at whose 
expense it was roofed { . 

Two admission tickets for the¬ 
atrical representations have been 
found at Pompeii; these tickets are 
circular, and made of bone; on one 
of them is written, “ aicxtaot 
and above this word is marked 
the Roman number, XII., with 
the Greek corresponding numeri¬ 
cal letters, IB, beneath it. The 
other ticket is numbered in a si¬ 
milar manner ; and likewise mark¬ 
ed with the name of a Greek poet; 
both ticketshaving, on the reverse 
side, a drawing, which represents 
a theatres. The Odeum seems to 

presentations appear to have been exhibited 
by day-light. 

(g) Augustus, in order to prevent confu¬ 
sion, with regard to places for the audience 
in theatres, decreed that all the different 
ranks of persons, in the respective cities of 
the Roman empire, should be provided 
with tickets, specifying the part of the 
theatre, and the number of the seat they 
were entitled to occupy. This circumstance 
is related by Suetonius. The arrangement 
of the audience was as follows. Persons 
of Consular rank and Vestals, being few in 
number, occupied the two shortest lines of 
seats, close to the orchestra, and sat on 
portable chairs : Knights, being likewise 
few in number, compared with Plebeians, 
occupied the shortest line* of stone benches ; 


275 


POMPEIT. 


Ch. XI.] 

have suffered from the earthquake 
of 63. 

Tragic Theatre. This edifice, 
which stands upon a stratum of 
very ancient lava, is much larger 
than the Odeum ; and, in point of 
architecture, one of the most beau¬ 
tiful buildings in Pompeii. It was 
composed of tufo, lined throughout 
with Parian marble ; and still ex¬ 
hibits the Orchestra, the Prosce¬ 
nium, the Stage; the Marks where 
Scenes, or a Curtain were fixed; 
the Podium on the right of the 
Orchestra for the chief magistrate, 
where a curule chair was found; 
the Podium on the left, for the 
Vestals, the benches for patri¬ 
cians and knights, in the lower 
part of the Cavea, and those for 
plebeians, in the upper part; the 
Entrance for patricians and 
knights ; the Entrance and Stairs 
for plebeians; the Gallery round 
the top of the Theatre, for ladies ; 
which Gallery appears to have 
been fenced with bars of iron; (as 
the holes in the marble, and the 
remains of lead, used for fixing 
the bars, may still be discovered ;) 
the Stairs of entrance to this Gal¬ 
lery, and the Blocks of Marble 
projecting from its Wall, so as to 
support the wood-work, to which, 
in case of rain or intense heat, an 
awning was fastened 11 . The Stage, 
judging by the niches that still 
remain, appears to have been 
adorned with statues 1 : the Pro¬ 
scenium is enclosed by dwarf walls, 
and divides the stage from the 
Orchestra and seats appropriated 
to the audience. This stage, like 

(these were immediately behind the porta¬ 
ble chairs;) plebeian men occupied the up¬ 
permost, and consequently the longest, lines 
of stone benches ; while the female part of 
the audience, Vestals excepted, were com¬ 
manded, by Augustus, to occupy the portico, 
or gallery ; near which stood the officers 
appointed to keep order. 

(//) The Campanians ! invented awnings 


those of modern days, is more ele¬ 
vated at the upper than the lower 
end; very wide, hut so shallow, 
that much scenery could not have 
been used ; although the ancients 
changed their scenes by aid of 
engines with which they turned 
the partition, called the scena , 
round at pleasure. There arc 
three entrances for the actors, all 
in front; and behind the stage 
are remains of the Postscenium. 

This Theatre stands on the 
side of a hill, according to the cus¬ 
tom of the Greeks ; and on the 
summit of this hill was an exten¬ 
sive Colonnade, (already men¬ 
tioned,) destined, perhaps, to shel¬ 
ter the spectators in wet weather; 
and likewise to serve as a public 
walk ; the view it commands being 
delightful. 

The Comic and Tragic Thea¬ 
tres stand near each other, and 
contiguous to a public Building 
surrounded with Colonnades, and 
supposed to have been, 

The ForumNundinarium. This 
Forum is of an oblong shape, and 
bordered by Columns of the Doric 
order, without bases ; the mate¬ 
rials of which they are composed 
being tufo stuccoed, and painted 
either red or yellow, as was;ii, 
general practice at Pompeii. 
These Columns still exhibit 
figures in armour, and names of 
persons ; traced, no doubt, by the 
ancient inhabitants of this Forum 
to while away their vacant hours. 
Within the Colonnades are Rooms 
of various dimensions, supposed 
to have served as Shops and Ma- 

for theatres, to shelter the audience from 
the rays of the sun : but were, in conse¬ 
quence, called effeminate; a character 
which still seems appropriate to them. 

( i ) The partition between the dressing 
rooms and the stage was called the Scena; 
and decorated with statues, columns, #c., 
for a tragedy; and, for a comedy, with 
cottages, and other pastoral objects. 

T 2 


276 

gazines for merchandize; some of 
the largest being about fifteen 
feet square: and above these rooms 
was a second story, which appears 
to have been surrounded with 
wooden balconies. In one room 
was found an apparatus for mak¬ 
ing soap ; in another a mill for 
pulverizing corn; and in another 
an apparatus for expressing oil. 
On the eastern side of this Fo¬ 
rum were stalls for cattle ; and in 
the Prison, or Guard-housi, were 
found skeletons in the stocks, ar¬ 
mour, and the crest of a helmet 
adorned with a representation of 
the siege of TroyJ. The square 
contains a Fountain of excellent 
water, a small ancient Table, and 
likewise a large modern Table, 
shaded by weeping willows, so as 
to make a pleasant dining place 
in warm weather*. 

Amphitheatre. Iu the centre 
of a spacious Piazza, (probably a 
Circus for chariot-races,) stands 
thiscolossean Edifice; which, when 
disentombed, was so perfect that 
the paintings on the stuccoed wall 
surrounding the Arena appeared 
as fresh as if only just finished: 
but, on being too suddenly expo¬ 
sed to the air, the stucco cracked, 
and fell off; so that very few 
paintings now remain. The form 
of this Amphitheatre is oval ; the 
architecture particularly fine ; and 
a handsome Arcade, once embel¬ 
lished with statues, the niches and 
inscriptions belonging to which 
still remain, leads down to the 
principal entrance. This Arcade 
is paved with lava, and the statues 
it contained were those of C. Cus- 

(j) Ancient Forums were always guarded 
by soldiers ; and therefore the place wherein 
the stocks and armour were found most 
probably was the Guard-house. 

(A) The model of the Stocks, the Skulls 
of the persons whose skeletons were found 
in them, and some of the half-finished 


Ch. XI. 

plus Pansa, and his Son. The Am¬ 
phitheatre rests upon a circular 
subterraneanCorridor of incredible 
strength ; as it supports all the 
seats. An iron railing seems to 
have defended the spectators who 
sat in the first row: and the en¬ 
trances of the Arena appear to 
have been defended by iron grates. 
The walls of the Podium, when 
first unburied, displayed beautiful 
paintings ; but, on being exposed 
to the air, they were destroyed, 
like those in the Arena. Above a 
flight of steps leading to the up¬ 
per seats is a basso-rilievo, (in 
marble,) which represents a cha¬ 
rioteer driving over his opponent; 
and above the seats is a Gallery, 
which was appropriated to female 
spectators: it encircles the top of 
the edifice ; and commands a mag¬ 
nificent prospect of Vesuvius, 
Castel-a-mare, the site of Stabiae, 
the mouth of the Sarno, and the 
beautiful Pay of Naples: and in 
the upper part of the circular 
Wall of this Gallery are Blocks of 
Stone, pierced to receive the poles 
which supported the awning 1 . 

Near the northern entrance to 
the Amphitheatre are remains of 
a Building furnished with a Tri¬ 
clinium ; and therefore supposed 
to have been the Silicernium be¬ 
longing to the edifice. 

City Walls. Pompeii was for¬ 
tified by double Walls built with 
large pieces of Tufo; one Wall 
encompassing the city, the other 
passing through the centre of a 
ditch, made to strengthen the 
fortification: and between these 
Walls is the broad Platform of 

Sculpture discovered iu tlie Statuary's Shop, 
are kept here. 

(0 Skeletons of eight lions, and one 
man, supposed to have been their keeper, 
were, according to report, discovered iu 
this Amphitheatre. 


POMPEII. 


277 


POMPEII. 


Ch. XI.] 

the Ancients ; which, at Pompeii, 
seems to have been twenty feet in 
breadth. The Walls were about 
twenty feet high ; some parts con¬ 
sisting of smooth stones, from four 
to five feet square, and apparently 
not joined by any cement; though 
placed with such skill as to re¬ 
semble one entire mass: while 
other parts arc ill built, with rough 
stones of various shapes and sizes; 
and were, perhaps, hastily piled to¬ 
gether, after the destructive earth¬ 
quake of the year 63. Curious Cha¬ 
racters arc engraved on some of 
these stones. The AValls were 
fortified with low square Towers ; 
and the four Gates of the City 
stood at right angles m . 

No Traveller should neglect an 
opportunity'of visiting Pompeii; 
which exhibits, even now, one of 
the most interesting objects in the 
known world: and when first dis¬ 
entombed, when skeletons were 
seen in the houses ; when lamps, 
candelabra, glass of various kinds 
and shapes, ornamental vases, cu¬ 
linary utensils, and even the very 
bread of the suffocated inhabitants 
were discernible; when the Tem¬ 
ples were filled with statues of 
heathen deities, and adorned with 
all the elegant and costly embel¬ 
lishments of heathen worship, 
what a speculation must this city 
have furnished to a thinking mind! 
—and though the greater part of 
its moveable wealth now enriches 

(m) The number of skeletons hitherto 
found in Pompeii, and its suburbs, is said 
to be less than three hundred; a small pro¬ 
portion of its inhabitants, if we may judge 
from an advertisement,found on theoutside 
of a large private house, and importing, 
that it was to be let for five years, together 
with nine hundred shops, all belonging to 
the same person : and, supposing no mis¬ 
take to have arisen, with respect to the 
import of this advertisement, how great 
must have been the trade, and consequent 
population of a city where one individual 
possessed nine hundred shops! 


the royal Neapolitan Museums, 
still to visit it, even now, is abso¬ 
lutely to live with the Ancients: 
and when wc see houses, shops, 
furniture, implements of husban¬ 
dry, <S)-c.Syc., exactly similar to those 
of the present day, we are apt 
to conclude that customs and man¬ 
ners have undergone but little va¬ 
riation for the last two thousand 
years. The practice of consulting 
augurs, and that of hiring persons 
to weep at funerals, are still kept 
up in the mountainous and se¬ 
cluded parts of Tuscany; and the 
Tuscan cattle, when destined for 
slaughter, are frequently adorned 
with chaplets of flowers, precisely 
as the Ancients used to adorn 
their victims for sacrifice. The 
Roman butchers, likewise, still 
wear the dress, and use the knife, 
of heathen sacrificing priests. The 
old Roman custom of not eating 
above one regular meal a day, 
and that about the ninth hour of 
Italy, (three o’clock with us,) is 
kept up by many of the Italians: 
and, during the month of [May, it 
is common to see peasants dressed, 
as in former times, like Pan, sa¬ 
tyrs, $*c n . I do not, however, 
mean to infer, from what I have 
said, that the modern Greeks and 
Italians equal the Ancients in works 
of art; there being, in this re¬ 
spect, a considerable difference 
between the present race and their 
forefathers °. 

(n) In Tuscany the ancient practice of 
placing herbs, eggs, and what we call a 
whet, upon the table before dinner, is still 
kept up at hotels. 

(a) Persons who intend to enter Pompeii 
by the Herculaneum Gate, should, on ar¬ 
riving at the Villa of Diomedes, send their 
carriage and dinner to the Forum Nundi- 
narium; ordering their driver to be in 
waiting there, an hour before sunset, to 
convey them to the Amphitheatre; and 
thence back to Naples. Put persons who 
drive, in the first place, to the Amphitheatre, 
and then enter Pompeii by the Forum Nun- 


27 $ 


PiESTUM. 


EXCURSION TO 1VTJSTUM. 

The distance from Naples to 
Pffistum is computed to be fifty- 
four miles; and the time em¬ 
ployed in going - , with a light four- 
wheeled carriage and four horses, 
is as follows:—• 

hours 

From Naples to Pompeii 

Salerno.3 

Eboli.3§ 

Passtum.3. 

Persons who are restricted for 
time may accomplish this excur¬ 
sion in two days, by ordering 
their Voiturin to send forward a 
relay of horses to take them from 
Salerno to Passtum : but the more 
eligible plan is to sleep the first 
night at Eboli; the second at 
Salerno; and to return on the 
third day to Naples. The former 
mode of going usually costs from 
thirty-five to forty piastres for the 
horses ; the latter about thirtyP. 
From Salerno to Paestum there is 
a cross road, six or eight miles 
shorter than that which goes 
through Eboli; but not good, 
even during summer; and, at 
other seasons, impracticable. The 
great road from Naples to Eboli 
is excellent. Wishing to sleep 
the first night at Eboli, we set 
out as early as possible from 
Naples; and, on entering the 
valley near the Sea Gate of Pom¬ 
peii, drove through cotton plan¬ 
tations, watered by the Sarno; 

dinarium, should send their dinner to the 
Villa of Diomedes; ordering their carriage 
thither, half an hour before sunset; as vi¬ 
sitants are not permitted to remain at Pom¬ 
peii after the cIo* i of day. We gave to our 
Cicerone here, one piastre--to the person 
who provided us with water, a dinner-table, 
and benches to sit upon, five carlini—to 
the Custode of the Temple of Venus, two 
carlini—and to the Custode of the Temple 
which contains the newly found Altar, 
adorned with bassi-rilievi, one carlino. 

(]>) An English family, consisting of six 
persons, lately paid, for an open carriage 


[Ch. XI. 

thence proceeding to Nocera, an¬ 
ciently Nuceria , a town of high 
antiquity <1; but where nothing 
now remains worth notice, except 
the Church of Santa Maria 
Maggiore r , which is adorned 
with an antique Font, for the im¬ 
mersion of adults, similar to that 
in the Baptistery at Pisa. The 
Church is of an orbicular form ; 
it contains a double circle of Co¬ 
lumns of precious marbles ; and 
seems to have been originally a 
Temple consecrated to all the 
gods. From Nocera we drove 
through a rich vale, exhibiting 
picturesque scenery, to La Cava, 
a large town with porticos on each 
side of the high street, like those 
at Bologna. On quitting La Cava 
we were presented with a sight of 
an ancient Aqueduct, and a 
Villa which stands amidst hang¬ 
ing gardens at the foot of the 
Apennine, in a very remarkable 
situation. We then drove to 
Vietri, built on the side of a 
mountain in the immense and 
magnificent Bay of Salerno, and 
exhibiting views of the most beau¬ 
tiful description. Vietri (which 
has risen from the ashes of the 
ancient Marcina) is not far dis¬ 
tant from Amalfi, the Islands of 
the Sirens, and the Promontory 
of Minerva ; which all lie toward 
the right; while, on the oppo¬ 
site side of the Bay, rises the ce¬ 
lebrated Promontory of Leuco- 

and four horses, only twenty-four piastres, 
buona mano inclusive : they slept the first 
night at Salerno; paying for supper eight 
carlini a head ; anql for beds four carlini a 
head. The next day they visited Pscstum; 
remaining there five hours; and then re¬ 
turning to sleep at Eboli; whence they pro¬ 
ceeded, next morning, to Amalfi, (a water 
excursion, which takes up three hours,) and 
the same evening reached Naples. 

(q) Augustus founded a Roman colony 
here. 

(r) Some writers call this church theiJ/tf- 
donna della Yittvrki 


PiESTUM. 


270 


Ch. XL] 

sia, anciently called Promontorium 
Posidium . Frorn Vietri we drove 
between the sea and the moun¬ 
tains of the Apennine, richly wood¬ 
ed, and embellished with convents, 
villages, and ruins of ancient edifi¬ 
ces, to Salerno, formerly Safer - 
num ; the approach to which is 
enchanting. This town, situated 
about twenty-seven miles from 
Naples, and celebrated by the 
poets of the Augustan age for its 
delightful position, was anciently 
the capital of the Picentes; and 
and is, at the present moment, a 
handsome sea-port embosomed in 
the Gulf to which it gives a name. 
The Precincts of the Cathedral 
here, and the Church itself, con¬ 
tain some antiquities brought from 
Paestum ; among which are Co¬ 
lumns, apparently of Roman 
workmanship, two or three Sar¬ 
cophagi, and the Basin of a Foun¬ 
tain, all placed in the Court be¬ 
fore the edifice, and the last fixed 
the wrong side upward in the 
wall of the Court. Among the 
antiquities within the Cathedral 
are two fine Columns of verde an- 
tico, a mosaic Pavement, and two 
Vases for the purifying water; one 
of which is adorned with hassi- 
rilievi representing the history of 
Alexander's expedition to India ; 
the other with representations or 
the pleasures of the vintage. The 
subterranean Church, beneath 
this Cathedral, is said to contain 
the bones of S. Matthew. Sa¬ 
lerno boasts a tolerably good Inn, 
where we breakfasted, at the same 
time providing ourselves with 
bread, meat, fruit, wine, water, 
every thing, in short, which we 
were likely to require at Paes¬ 
tum ; and being anxious to get 
thither as soon as possible, we 

(■0 The smooth thrashing floors, with 
cattle working in them, in the open fields 


ordered our drivers to take the 
summer road, instead of going 
round by Eboli: this road, how¬ 
ever, we did not reach for above 
an hour ; but kept on the high¬ 
way ; which traverses a rich and 
beautiful country, to us rendered 
doubly interesting by little groups 
of Calabrian farmers, dressed as 
Salvator Rosa frequently por¬ 
trays them, and all armed with 
short swords and fowling-pieces: 
some of these people were walk¬ 
ing ; others riding; others re¬ 
galing themselves in temporary 
arbours close to the road; and as 
the harvest was getting in, when 
we passed this road, we likewise 
had the pleasure to observe the 
Calabrian mode of thrashing corn; 
which operation is accomplished 
by means of a small vehicle, shap¬ 
ed like an ancient car, placed on 
a wooden harrow, and drawn by 
two oxen: in this vehicle sit two 
children, or one man, to guide 
the oxen; who walk round and 
round a circular paved space, en¬ 
closed by a dwarf wall, and strew¬ 
ed with the unthrashed grain; 
which is continually turned by the 
harrow, while the animals thrash 
it with their hoofs. Two or three 
of these vehicles are frequently 
employed at the same moment, in 
each of the above-described en¬ 
closures ». After proceeding from 
six to eight miles through this 
luxuriant and populous country, 
we observed that the farm-houses 
gradually diminished in number ; 
till, at length, on our turning off 
to the right, to take the summer 
road, they totally disappeared • 
while the face of the country be¬ 
came wild, melancholy, and like 
the Pontine Marshes twenty years 
ago. We also found the soil 

of Magna Gracia, arc described by Ho¬ 
mer. 


2S0 

loose and swampy and the crazy 
bridges, made with boughs of 
trees, and thrown over deep 
ditches, which we were compelled 
to cross, frequently endangered 
our carriage and horses, and ob¬ 
liged us to walk. At length, how¬ 
ever, we arrived within sight of 
Persano, a hunting-seat belong¬ 
ing to the King of Naples: but, 
on learning that the bridge in 
this neighbourhood, thrown across 
the Silaro by Murat, was not suf¬ 
ficiently finished for carriages to 
pass over it, we found ourselves 
under the disagreeable necessity 
of fording the river; in order to 
accomplish which we quitted the 
Persano road, and turned off a 
second time to the right, proceed¬ 
ing through woods of tamarisk 
and clumps of myrtle, till we 
reached the banks of the Silaro, 
anciently Silarus, and famed, 
from time immemorial, for the 
petrifying quality of its waters: 
when, having with difficulty pro¬ 
cured a forder to walk at the 
head of our horses, we dashed 
down a sharp descent into the 
stream, which is by no means 
narrow, and rather deep ; though, 
during dry seasons, not danger¬ 
ous : our horses, however, seemed 
inclined to make it so ; for, being 
much heated, and finding their 
situation very refreshing, they no 
sooner got midway through this 
river, than they stopped short; 
thus subjecting us to be driven 
out of our course by the current: 
indeed the poor jaded animals 
were with such difficulty induced 
to proceed, that I began to ap¬ 
prehend we might, like other com¬ 
modities washed by the petrifying 
Silaro,be all converted into stone. 

( t ) This plain is celebrated by Virgil for 
its roses that bloomed twice a year, (in 
May and December j) but the bushes which 


[Cli. XI. 

The strong arm of our forder, 
however, at length compelled the 
horses to continue their journey ; 
and after having gained the op¬ 
posite side of the river, we pro¬ 
ceeded, amidst wide desolation, 
through a vast plain unembel¬ 
lished now with roses t , vainly 
seeking for Paestum; which, from 
its peculiar situation, is so dif¬ 
ficult to find, that I no longer 
wonder at its having, when 
abandoned by its citizens, re¬ 
mained for ages undiscovered: 
after driving four miles without 
seeing a single habitation, or any 
living thing, except one eagle, 
and several herds of that stupid 
swinish looking animal the buf¬ 
falo, we at length approached a 
small patch of cultivation fenced 
with hedges of wild vines ; when, 
turning toward the sea, we be¬ 
held, about a mile distant from 
its margin, and encompassed with 
silence and solitude, three stately 
edifices ; which announced them¬ 
selves as the remains of Pees - 
turn: not, however, such remains 
as seemed to accord with the effe¬ 
minate, though finished taste of 
the rich and luxurious Sybarites— 
on the contrary I could not help 
fancying myself transported to In¬ 
dia, and placed before the simply 
majestic specimens of Hindoo 
architecture represented by the 
pencil of Daniel. There is a 
room in a farm-house, near the 
Temples, where Travellers who 
wish for shelter may eat the din¬ 
ner they bring with them ; but 
its wretched inhabitants can sup¬ 
ply nothing except water; and 
even that is extremely unwhole¬ 
some ; for the aqueducts which 
once conveyed healthy beverage 

produced these flowers are said to have 
been removed while the kingdom of Naples 
was under French government. 


PiESTUM. 


PiESTUM. 


281 


Ch. XI.] 

to the town, are now no more. 
Travellers should neither sleep at 
Paestum, nor approach its environs 
till an hour after sunrise ; neither 
should they remain within its 
walls long 1 enough to encounter 
the dew which falls immediately 
before sunset: and though, tak¬ 
ing these precautions, it may be 
possible to escape the dangerous 
effects of Mai aria, even during 
the months when it is most pre¬ 
valent, (those of July, August, 
and September,) still I would 
counsel Travellers to prefer vi¬ 
siting Paestum in April, May, or 
October. 

This city, supposed to be the 
ancient Poseidonia of a colony of 
Sybarite adventurers, who, on 
landing here, found a town, drove 
its inhabitants to the mountains, 
and established themselves in their 
stead; appears, from its name, 
to have been dedicated to Nep¬ 
tune, called iuo-siSmv by the Greeks. 
The Sybarites, however, were 
supplanted by the Lucanians ; and 
these by the Romans ; under whose 
dominion Poseidonia assumed the 
name of Paestum; and after having 
survived the Roman empire in the 
west, was destroyed by the Sara¬ 
cens, about the commencement of 
the tenth century". Previous to 
describing the ruins of this vene¬ 
rable city it seems expedient to 
remark, that some of these ruins 
appear to be of much higher anti¬ 
quity than others ; probably be¬ 
cause the Sybarites, after having 
banished and succeeded the ori¬ 
ginal inhabitants, supposed to 
have been Etrurians, repaired the 
walls, embellished the temples, 

(u) The temples of Prestum were visited 
by Augustus, as venerable antiquities, even 
in his days; but appear, during modern 
times, to have been totally forgotten, till 
discovered, in 1755, by a young painter ot 


and erected baths, and other 
edifices, congenial to the taste of 
an opulent and luxurious nation : 
and when Poseidonia fell under 
the yoke of the Romans, it is na¬ 
tural to imagine they might have 
introduced Roman architecture. 

Walls of Paestum. These 
Walls, like those of Pompeii, are 
composed of very large smooth 
stones, put together with such 
nicety that it is difficult to distin¬ 
guish where they join v ; they are 
two miles and a half in circum¬ 
ference, and nearly of an ellipti¬ 
cal form; their height seems to 
have been about fifty English 
feet, their breadth, or platform, 
about twenty, and they were forti¬ 
fied by eight low towers, twenty- 
four feet square within, and at 
the windows twenty-three inches 
thick : these Towers are less an¬ 
cient than the Walls ; and some of 
the stones which compose them 
measure five feet in length. 

Gates. Paestum had four Gates, 
placed at right angles ; but that 
which fronts the east alone re¬ 
mains perfect; it consists of one 
simple arch, about fifty feet high, 
and built of stones incredibly mas¬ 
sive. On the key stone of this 
Arch it was easy once to dis¬ 
cern two bassi-rilievi ; the one 
representing the Sirena Pestana 
holding a rose ; the other repre¬ 
senting a Dolphin ; ancient sym¬ 
bols of a maritime people : time, 
however, has so far obliterated 
these symbols that I could not 
discover them. Within the Gate 
was a second Wall; and between 
the two are remains of Soldiers’ 
Barracks ; and likewise of the an- 

Naplcs, who once more brought them into 
public notice. 

(v) The Etruscan walls of Fiesole appear 
to have been of the same description! 
point of architecture. 


2S2 


PiESTUM. 


cient Pavement of the city, which 
resembles that of Pompeii. On 
the outside of the northern Gate 
are several vestiges of Tombs, 
some of which appear to have 
been lined with painted stucco. 
Grecian armour, and vases of 
rare beauty, exhibiting Greek in¬ 
scriptions, were found in many of 
them. 

Temple of Neptune. This 
Edifice, the most majestic, and 
apparently the most ancient here, 
or indeed in any other part of the 
European world, is composed of 
stone, evidently created by the 
torpedo touch of the Siiaro: for, 
like the stone of Tivoli, it con¬ 
sists of wood, and various other 
substances petrified ; and though 
durable as granite, abounds with 
so many small cavities that it re¬ 
sembles cork. The shape of this 
Temple, supposed to have been 
consecrated to Neptune, is qua¬ 
drilateral ; its length, out and out, 
an hundred and ninety-seven Eng¬ 
lish feet; its breadth eighty: it 
has two fronts, both being adorned 
with a pediment, supported by six 
enormous fiuted columns. Each 
side is supported by twelve co¬ 
lumns (those in the angles not 
being counted twice) ; and a Do¬ 
ric Frieze and Cornice encompass 
the whole building. The above- 
named exterior columns, gene¬ 
rally composed of six, though, in 
a few instances, of seven blocks of 
stone, are in height only twenty- 
seven feet; their circumference, 
at the bottom, is twenty feet six 
inches ; but considerably less at 
the top: and the number of flutings 
to each column is twenty-four. 
They have no bases ; but rest on 

( w ) There being only three steps seems 
extraordinary ; because they are so incon¬ 
veniently deep it is scarcely possible to as¬ 
cend them; but as the number three, wa3. 


[Ch. XL 

the third step of the platform on 
which the edifice is erected. The 
capitals are quite simple ; and 
more in the style of Hindoo archi¬ 
tecture than any other. Two 
flights of steps lead to the two 
Vestibules, each of which is sup¬ 
ported by two pilasters with two 
columnsbetween them; the breadth 
of each vestibule being eleven feet 
six inches. The Celia, forty-four 
feet in breadth, is enclosed by four 
dwarf walls, and adorned with 
fourteen columns, disposed in the 
same manner as the exterior row ; 
but less massive ; the circumfe¬ 
rence at the bottom being only 
thirteen feet ten inches, and much 
less at the top ; and the flutings 
to each only twenty in number. 
The situation of the High Altar 
and those on which victims were 
sacrificed and offerings made, is 
discoverable ; and it appears that 
these altars fronted the east. The 
interior columns support an im¬ 
mense architrave; on which rises 
another set of still smaller columns; 
destined, perhaps, to support the 
roof of the portico: five of these 
Columns remain on one side, and 
three on the other. Gigantic steps 
above five feet deep, and three in 
number, lead up to the platform on 
which the temple stands, and en¬ 
compass it on every side w . The 
largest stone of this stupendous 
edifice contains one way thirteen 
feet eight inches ; another way 
four feet eight inches; and another, 
two feet three inches ; making 
altogether one hundred and forty- 
four cubic feet. 

I have already mentioned that 
some authors suppose the Etru¬ 
rians were originally Cananeans; 

as t have already observed, sacred and ty¬ 
pical among tbe Ancients, this might, per¬ 
haps, be the cause why the Pvestum temples 
are surrounded by three steps only. 


ch. xr.i 


PjESTUM. 


2S3 


and if this he admitted, it will ap¬ 
pear probable that when they emi¬ 
grated to the European Conti¬ 
nent, their first landing place 
might be Psestmn: and it seems 
equally probable that, on landing, 
they might erect the stupendous 
Temple I have endeavoured to de¬ 
scribe x . 

Basilica, so called, because no 
appearance is exhibited here, 
either of altars or a cella. This 
Edifice, which stands, like the 
Temple of Neptune, on a quadri¬ 
lateral platform, is in length, out 
and out, an hundred and sixty- 
eight feet six inches; and in 
breadth eighty feet six inches ; it 
has two fronts, each being adorned 
by nine fluted columns without 
bases ; and resting on the third 
step of the platform ; which step 
is five feet two inches deep. Each 
side is adorned by sixteen columns 
(the angular columns not being 
counted twice), resting, likewise, 
on the first step of the platform : 
the circumference of the largest 
columns, at the bottom, is four¬ 
teen feet six inches ; and, at the 
top, much less. Both fronts have 
a Vestibule ; and the interior 
of the building is supposed to 
have been divided into equal parts 
by columns placed in a straight 
line from one entrance to the 
other ; but only three of these co¬ 
lumns now remain ; and they do 
not range with the exterior ones. 
Where these three columns stand, 
the pavement seems to have been 
raised; and probably this spot 
was appropriated to the magi¬ 
strates. The Portico, which is 

(r) An ancient inscription at Palermo is 
■written in Chaldeean characters ; and there¬ 
fore some persons suppose the primitive 
inhabitants of Palermo to have been emi¬ 
grants from Chaldaja and Damascus ; and 
if this conjecture be well founded, the 
Etrurians werepnore probably of ChaicDean 


supposed tohavebeen appropriated 
to the common people, measures, 
in breadth, fifteen feet; and the 
Cross Walk fifteen feet six inches. 
A Doric Frieze and Cornice adorn 
the outside of the edifice. 

Temple o f Ceres. This Tem¬ 
ple, supposed to have been dedi¬ 
cated to Ceres, though smaller, 
and consequently less imposing 
titan that of Neptune, exhibits a 
lighter and more elegant style of 
architecture: its form is quadri¬ 
lateral ; its length, out and out, 
an hundred and eight feet; and 
its breadth forty-eight. There 
are two fronts ; each being adorn¬ 
ed with six columns, which sup¬ 
port a magnificent entablature and 
a pediment. Each side presents 
twelve columns, supporting a si¬ 
milar entablature ; and every co¬ 
lumn is fluted, and rests, without 
base, on the third step of the 
platform on which the temple 
stands : the diameter of each co¬ 
lumn is four feet at the bottom ; 
less at the top ; and the height 
thirty feet. At the entrance is a 
Vestibule, supported by six co¬ 
lumns with plain round bases; and 
beyond are four steps leading to 
the Cella, which is twenty-five feet 
wide, and encompassed, on the 
four sides, by a dwarf wall. The 
Situation of the High Altar, and 
of those whereon victims were sa¬ 
crificed and offerings made, is dis¬ 
coverable ; these altars fronted 
the east. Remains of Sarcophagi 
are likewise discoverable within 
the precincts of this temple; the 
outside of which is adorned with a 
Doric Frieze and Cornice ; and 

than Cananean origin. Another circum¬ 
stance merits notice ; the inside walls of 
the most ancient sepulchral monuments at 
PtEStum exhibit paintings; and we learn 
from the Prophet Isaiah, that the Chaldacans 
were in the habit of painting the walls of 
their apartments. 


284 


PiESTUM. 


[Ch. XL 


all its columns, together with 
those of the Basilica, and the 
Temple of Neptune, appear to 
have been stuccoed. The Pave¬ 
ment of these buildings was Mo¬ 
saic. 

Theatre. This edifice is almost 
totally destroyed ; but the frag¬ 
ments of griffons and fine bassi- 
rilievi, which have been found 
here, evince that it was erected at 
a period when sculpture was rising 
fast to its zenith of perfection. 

Amphitheatre. This Edifice 
likewise is nearly destroyed: it 


appears to have been of an oval 
form, an hundred and seventy 
feet wide, by an hundred and 
twenty long. Ten rows of Seats, 
and some of the Caves for wild 
beasts, may still be traced: it 
stood precisely in the centre of 
the town. 

The great antiquity of Paestum, 
and the uncertainty as to what its 
remaining edifices originally were, 
and to whom they belonged, 
brought to my recollection a cele¬ 
brated Italian sonnet, which may 
be thus imitated. 


“ Say, Time —whose, once, yon stately Pile,” I cried, 

“ Which, now, thou crumbiest, ruthless, with the soil'?”— 
lie answer’d not—but spread his pinions wide, 

And flew, with eager haste, to ampler spoil. 

“ Say, then, prolific Fame, whose breath supplies 
Life to each work of wonder—what were those ?’'— 
Abash’d, with blushes only she replies, 

Like one whose bosom heaves with secret throes. 

Lost in amaze, I turn’d my steps aside; 

When round the Pile I saw Oblivion glide, 

And scatter poppies o’er each vacant shrine— 

“ Speak J” I exclaim’d—“ for once, mute Nymph, reveal— 
Yet wherefore from thy lips remove the seal ?— 

Whose once it was avails not —now ’lis thine !” 


Having dined in the temple of 
Neptune, and at the same time 
enjoyed the most delicious and 
impressive mental feast which Eu¬ 
ropean scenery can furnish, we set 
out to return home by way of 
Eboli; sending our carriage empty 
to ford the Silaro, while we walked 
over the new bridge. We were 
nearly four hours in driving to 
Eboli; and, as it was quite dark, 
I can give no account of the road, 
further than that we found it 
smooth, and apparently excellent, 
except the first four miles. We 
slept at Eboli, where the Inn con¬ 
tains several beds, but an ill-pro¬ 
vided larder; and next morning 
pursued our way to Salerno y. 
Wishing to visit the Benedictine 

(y ) There is at Eboli an inn called La 
Rosa Petrilla, which, though not usually 


Convent of La Trinitii, near La 
Cava, we stopped at the entrance 
of that town, and sent for a light 
carriage and two strong horses, to 
take us up a rocky mountain of 
the Apennine, on which the Con¬ 
vent is situated, at the distance of 
two miles from the high road, and 
in the mule-path to Amalfi. The 
ascent to La Trinita presents fine 
scenery ; and the Convent, which 
is partly hewn out of a rock, and 
partly built upon it, is spacious 
even to magnificence ; but con¬ 
tains nothing particularly worth 
examination ; as the curious re¬ 
cords, once kept there, were re¬ 
moved, when the French sup¬ 
pressed this confraternity. After 
having seen the Convent of La 

resorted to by Travellers, contains good 
beds and a tolerably plentiful larder. 


2S5 


SORRENTO. 


Ch. xr.] 

Trinita, we proceeded to Naples ; 
stopping-, however, at Pompeii; 
through which town we walked, 
while our carriage went round the 
outside of the walls to meet us at 
the Villa of Diomeiles : and, dur¬ 
ing- this walk, we were struck with 
the similitude of shape and archi¬ 
tecture between the Temple of 
Hercules here, and that of Nep¬ 
tune at Paestum. 

EXCURSION, BY WATER, TO 
SORRENTO. 

Sorrento, anciently called Sy- 
rentum, from its enchanting situa¬ 
tion, and supposed to have been 
a Phoenician colony, is between 
five and six leagues distant from 
Naples ; and lies on the left side 
of the bay, beyond Castel-a-mare, 
and near Capri. Persons who 
wish to go and return the same 
day, should set out very early in 
the morning, it being necessary 
to allow four hours for rowing to 
Sorrento; three for refreshing 
the boatmen; and four for return¬ 
ing 2 . This excursion may be 
made by land, through Castel-a- 
mare and Vico ; but, from the 
former place to the commence¬ 
ment of the Piano di Sorrento, a 
distance of six miles, there is only 
a mule-road. 

The Inn at Sorrento being a 
bad one, Travellers should either 
provide themselves with a cold 
dinner, when they visit this town, 
or dine about a mile distant, in 

(z) A bo.it with ten oars, thus hired, 
usually costs three piastres, beside a few 
c.irlim to the boatmen for their dinner. 

(a) Contiguous to, anil on the left of the 
great Arch of the Temple of Neptune, is a 
small Corridor, nearly perfect, though half 
tilled with water; and leading to a large, 
circular, ancient Bath, which, by the aid of 


the Piano, or Plain, at a Lodging- 
house, called La Cocomella ; (ori¬ 
ginally a Convent belonging to 
the Jesuits ;) or at a neighbouring 
Lodging-house, near S. Pietro a 
Majella; both of which habita¬ 
tions are rented by a civil and in¬ 
telligent man, named Guarracino; 
who tarnishes dinners, wine, and 
beds, either by the night, or for a 
longer period: and,generally speak¬ 
ing, Travellers find it more plea¬ 
sant to land on the rocks near the 
Cocomella than at Sorrento ; es¬ 
pecially as the path to the former 
lies through picturesque Caves, 
now a public bathing place; hut 
supposed to have been, in Homer’s 
days, the Temples ot the Sirens: 
and, if we may judge by their 
present appearance, more pro¬ 
bably the scene whence Virgil 
borrowed images for his Tartarus, 
than is the Grotto of the Curnsean 
Sibyl. The upper story of the 
Cocomella boasts a Terrace which 
commands one of the most beau¬ 
tiful prospects existing ; and un¬ 
der the Quadrangle, which con¬ 
tains a curiously constructed Well 
of delicious water, is a Crypto 
Portions. 

The Sorrentine shore exhibits 
remains of a Temple supposed to 
have been dedicated to Neptune ; 
ancient Paths, two of which are 
perfect 3 • considerable vestiges 
of an edifice supposed to have 
been the magnificent Temple of 
Ceres, which once adorned this 
coast; and on the foundations of 

a boat, may be seen through a chasm in the 
clilf; and is said to contain paintings. Be¬ 
tween this Bath and the Marina grande di 
Sorrento, is an ancient Bath of a quadri¬ 
lateral form, in perfect preservation, and 
supposed, by antiquaries, to have made 
part of a Temple consecrated to Venus. 


SORRENTO. 


2S G 

which a modern Villa nowstands b ; 
remains of a quadrilateral edifice 
of reticulated brick work, sup¬ 
posed to have been a Temple con¬ 
secrated to Herc ules ; interesting 
traces of the Villa of Vedius 
Pollio, on the ascent behind the 
Temple c ; and, in a Cove just be¬ 
yond the Marina di Puolo d , con¬ 
siderable vestiges of ancient 
Arches, Corridors, &>c., now call¬ 
ed Portiglione, perhaps a cor¬ 
ruption of the words Porta Leoni ; 
for these Arches, according- to the 
present appearance of the Ruin, 
may probably have been entrances 
to Caves belonging- to a Theatre ; 
and consequently appropriated to 
lions, and (other wild beasts e . 
But the Temple of Minerva, erect- 

(b) The remains of the Temple of Ceres 
are on the Cliff, in an Orchard, once be¬ 
longing to the Guardati-family, and near the 
Villa-Correale : and on the Beach, beneath 
this Temple, pieces of a composition, de¬ 
nominated Sorrento stone, are frequently 
found. The colour of the composition is 
blue; some pieces being opaque, others 
transparent; audit is supposed they made 
pait of the interior decorations of the Sor- 
rentine temples. Emeralds and white Cor¬ 
nelians are also found in considerable num¬ 
bers on the Sorrentine shore; and ancient 
Coins, Lamps, Yases, and personal Orna¬ 
ments, in the ancient public Burial Ground ; 
which appears to have been situated on the 
left side of the high-road leading from Sor¬ 
rento to Ponte Maggiore. There likewise 
are remains of a Columbarium on the Cliff 
near the Capuchin-convent. 

(c) Considerable masses of the Opus re~ 
ticulatum, some of which have fallen into 
the sea, a Terrace with its original pave¬ 
ment remaining, and Corridors under it, 
stuccoed, and in one part painted with the 
deep red colour so prevalent at Pompeii, is 
all now discoverable of the Temple of Her¬ 
cules; the ruins of which edifice form the 
point of the Promontory of Sorrento, once 
called the Promontory of Ceres. The Villa 
of Pollio exhibits remains of a Bridge; two 
Reservoirs for tishes ; in one of which is a 
spring of fresh water: a Kitchen with its 
stoves and fire-place quite perfect; several 
adjoining Rooms, probably offices for ser¬ 
vants } Pavements of ancient stucco, and 
AValls of the opus reticulutum. It is said 
that when Augustus was feasting with Ve¬ 
dius Pollio in this Villa, a slave broke, by 



ed by Ulysses, (if we may credit 
Seneca f ,) on a height denomi¬ 
nated in modern times, La Pnnta 
della Campanella ; the temple of 
Apollo, which stood on the same 
promontory, and several other 
Temples, mentioned by classic 
writers as having once adorned 
the Sorrentine shore, are now 
levelled with the dust, or en- 
gulphed by the Tyrrhene sea; 
which has made such encroach¬ 
ments, that what formerly was a 
fine road, extending from the town 
of Sorrento to the base of the 
cliii crowned by the Temple of 
Ceres, is at present deep waters. 

When Bernardo Tasso came 
from northern Italy to settle at 
Sorrento, he found the streets 

accident, a crystal vase belonging to a cosily 
set; upon which Pollio condemned him to 
be thrown inio the reservoir, and become 
food for the fishes; but Augustus, indignant 
at this cruel order, forbade its execution; 
likewise commanding the whole set of 
crystal to be broken, and thrown into the 
reservoir; and at the same time ordering 
the reservoir itself to be rendered useless. 

(it) It seems probable that Puolo may 
be a corruption of the word Pollio. 

(e) The ascent from the Cove to the Ruins 
above the Arches being steep and dan¬ 
gerous, I would counsel Travellers, after 
having seen the Arches, $c., to row to the 
Marina di Puolo, landing there, and then 
walking to the Cliff, (immediately above 
the Cove;) where,in a Masscria belonging 
to Don Salvatore di Tunis, are Ruins 
which evidently communicated with those 
below called Portiglione. The form of these 
Ruins, and the Arches still visible in that 
part nearest to the Cove, seem to announce 
a Theatre: behind these Ruins are consi¬ 
derable remains of Walls of reticulated 
brick work, which, judging from their 
shape, appear to have enclosed a Circus; 
and in this enclosure a tine column of mar¬ 
ble (probably used instead of an obelisk) 
was recently dicovcred. 

(./) “ Alta procelloso speculator vertice 
Pallas.— See Seneca, Eplst. lxxvii. 

(g) On the side of this road, now inun¬ 
dated by the sea, stands a mass of ancient 
brickwork; which according to tradition, 
was a Monument erected by the Sorren- 
tiiios to the memory of Lyparus, a foreign 
prince, who resided among them; and was 
a great benefactor to their country. 


2S7 


SORRENTO. 


Ch. XL] 

adorned with handsome houses, 
and their inhabitants so kind and 
hospitable to foreigners, that lie 
calls Sorrento “ L'Albergo della 
Cortesia speaks of the deli¬ 
ciousness of the fruit; the variety 
and excellence of the animal food; 
and then adds ; “ L'aere e si se- 
reno, si temperato, si salutifero, 
si vitale, die gl' nomini die 
scnza provar altro cielo ci vivono 
sono quasi immortali and most 
certainly there is no spot in south¬ 
ern Italy so free from reflected 
heat during summer, or so much 
calculated at all seasons to pro¬ 
mote longevity, as the plain of 
Sorrento. This plain, which is 
three miles in length, and one in 
breadth, appears to be the mouth 
of an extinct volcano ; as it con¬ 
sists of deep and narrow glens, 
rocks, caverns, and small level 
spots of tufo: while the surround¬ 
ing mountains are all composed 
of lime-stone h . Sorrento itself, 
though reported to have been once 
a larger city than Naples, is now 
small; but contains, together with 
the neighbouring villages, from 
eighteen to twenty thousand inha¬ 
bitants. The plain is one con¬ 
tinued series of orchards divided 
from each other by lofty walls and 
intersected with houses. These 
orchards, however, arc not of the 
common sort; for the pomegra¬ 
nate, the aloe, the mimosa, the 
mulberry, the apple, the pear, the 
peach, the sorbus, the vine, the 
olive, the bay, the cypress, the 
wide spreading oak, and magnifi¬ 
cent maritime stone-pine, which 
peculiarly marks an Italian land¬ 
scape, are so beautifully mingled 

(h) The tea-tree is said to grow wild oil 
this part of the Apennine. 

( i) These walls appear to have been built 


and contrasted with multitudes of 
oranges and lemons, that persons 
standing on a height and looking 
down upon this plain, might fancy it 
the garden of the Ilesperides. Here 
is one carriage-road three miles in 
length, and formed by means of 
bridges thrown over the ravines ; 
the other public paths are narrow, 
and all lie between lofty walls*, 
which, though injurious to the 
beauty of the country, afford shade, 
even at midday, during summer; 
and shelter from storms of wind 
during winter. 

Sorrento has suffered so severe¬ 
ly from earthquakes, war, and ra¬ 
pine, that few of its antiquities 
remain. Its Fortifications are said 
to have been the first erected in 
Italy for the purpose of having 
cannon planted on them; its 
Streets exhibit ancient pavement, 
and resemble those of Pompeii, as 
does the manner in which its 
houses are constructed. An In¬ 
scription, near one of the Gates, 
in honour of Trajan; another in 
honour of Antoninus Pius ; an¬ 
other, under the Portico of the 
Church of S. Antonino, mention¬ 
ing a Temple dedicated to Venus; 
the Pedestal of an ancient Egyp¬ 
tian Statue, not long since 'per¬ 
fect; mutilated bassi-rilievi ; Co¬ 
lumns, Sarcophagi, and Altars, 
may still be traced in this town : 
and on the outside of the Cathe¬ 
dral, over the great door, is a 
beautiful basso-relievo , executed 
in Parian marble, and taken from 
the Temple of Apollo, which stood 
near the Punta della Campanella, 
originally called the Promontory 
of Minerva, from having been 

to preserve the earth on each side from fall¬ 
ing into the paths ; which were originally 
ravines, formed by the hand of nature. 


288 


SORRENTO. 


crowned with a Temple dedicated 
to that goddess k . But the object 
most interesting* to strangers is 
the paternal Mansion of Tor¬ 
quato Tasso, beautifully situated 
on a cliff supposed to have been 
the site of an ancient Temple. 
On the outside of this mansion is 
a mutilated Bust, in terra-cotta, 
of the immortal Bard ; and, in the 
Saloon up-stairs, a marble Bust 
called Torquato Tasso, though 
it more probably represents his 
father. Here likewise is a fine 
medallion of Alexander the Great: 
and beyond this Saloon is a Ter¬ 
race commanding an extensive 
view of the Bay of Naples: but 
the chamber in which Tasso was 
born is fallen into the sea. The 
Villa now belongs to the Duca di 
Laurito, who descends, in the fe¬ 
male line, from Tasso’s family. 
Near this Villa (and belonging to 
the Palazzo-Mastrolili) is a Gar¬ 
den, through which a path leads 
to the Corridors of the Temple 
of Neptune, terminated by a rc- 
mainingpart of that Temple, which 
exhibits a magnificent Grecian 
Arch. 

Between Sorrento and Meta, 
and very near the former, are 
some Antiquities highly worth no¬ 
tice ; namely, the Greek Piscina, 
(the shape of which, the Crypto- 
Porticus, and the Wells, appa¬ 
rently intended to ventilate this 
reservoir, may all be discovered ; 
though the centre has recently 
been filled with earth, and con- 

(k) The site of llie Temple of Apollo is 
near the village of Torca, (anciently called 
Theorica, from the processions of the gods 
exhibited there,) and not far distant from 
the village of S. Agata. A church was 
erected, during the ninth century, on the 
foundations of this Temple, and adorned 
with some of its columns, which still re¬ 
main; and therefore Travellers who visit 


[Ch. XI. 

verted into a garden;) and the 
R oman Piscina ?, or rather a part 
of the ancient Greek Reservoir, 
repaired by Antoninus Pius, in 
the year IbO, and still quite per¬ 
fect. Here likewise are a consi¬ 
derable number of W ells, appa¬ 
rently designed to ventilate the 
Reservoir, which still supplies 
Sorrento and its Piano with ex¬ 
cellent purified water. The Arches 
of this Reservoir are so skilfully 
constructed as to support a large 
Garden, which contains the loftiest 
Orange-trees in the whole Piano. 
Further on, in the way to Meta, 
is the site of an ancient Temple, 
supposed to have been dedicated 
to Venus ; and here are two myr¬ 
tle-trees, so uncommonly large 
that one could almost fancy them 
co-eval with the Temple. At the 
extremity of the Plain, and imme¬ 
diately under the lime-stone moun¬ 
tains, is Meta; a large Village 
containing a handsome Church, 
beautifully situated, and near 
which are several very old and 
fine Olive Trees, of a kind seldom 
met with in Italy. 

The inhabitants of Sorrento 
and its vicinity still retain the 
character given of them by Ber¬ 
nardo Tasso, with respect to their 
attention and kindness to Fo¬ 
reigners. Hospitable, so far as 
making entertainments goes, they 
cannot be ; having no longer the 
power ; but their fruit, milk, time, 
and best services, are always at the 
command of a Stranger. Three 

S. Agata, should endeavour to see these re¬ 
lics of antiquity. In heathen times a pro¬ 
cession went yearly from the Pantheon at 
Sorrento to the 'temples of Minerva and 
Apollo; and the custom is still observed, 
with tins difference, that the blessed Vir¬ 
gin, and other Christian Saints, are substi¬ 
tuted for the heathen divinities. 


2S9 


SORRENTO. 


Cli. XI.] 

or four generations of one family 
otten live together, under the same 
roof, according to the ancient 
Grecian custom ; and it is not un¬ 
common to see grandfathers and 
grandmothers above ninety years 
old, and perfectly exempt from 
infirmities: with respect to the 
healthtulness of the climate, there¬ 
fore, Bernardo Tasso seems again 
to have judged right; and with 
regard to provisions, beef, veal, 
fish, butter, honey, milk, fruits, 
and water, are all excellent; hog- 
meat so remarkably fine that hogs 
are denominated The Citizens of 
Sorrento; and the wine of this 
district is light and wholesome ; 
♦hough less esteemed by the Mo- 
derns than it was by the An¬ 
cients 1 . Lodging-houses may 
easily be procured at reasonable 
prices in the Plain ; but they are 
generally ill-furnished : the Ifouse 
of Captain S fa race, at S. 
nello, is, however, comfortably 
furnished ; and, what is more im¬ 
portant still, its master unites the 
wish with the capability of assist¬ 
ing Foreigners; insomuch that, 
when under his protection, they 
can never want a friend. He has 
one or two smaller houses. The 
Villa Correale, a beautiful speci¬ 
men of Grecian architecture, si¬ 
tuated near the sea, and sur¬ 
rounded by enchanting scenery, is 
also let as a lodging-house : so 
likewise are the Villa Spinelli, at 
Ponte Maggiore ; the Villa Ma- 
risca, which stands in a Garden, 
near Carrota; and the Villa Serra- 
Capriola, at Meta m . 

( l ) Persons who wish to be enlightened 
with respect to the history and antiquities 
of the Sorrentine Republic, should consult 
a work written upon this subject, by Phi* 
Jippo Anastasio, and entitled, “ Antiquit. 
Surrent ami another work, written by 
his nephew, and entitled, “ Agnelli Ana - 
stusii A nimudversiones” 

(/«) The Cav. Correale has other Villas to 
let, charmingly situated ou a height called 


The mountains which border 
the Piano di Sorrento abound with 
delightful walks and rides. 

The spot called Conti delie 
Fontanclle , e cli Cermenna , and 
between two and three miles dis¬ 
tant from the town of Sorrento, 
is well worth seeing ; as it pre¬ 
sents a magnificent view of the 
Gulphs of Naples and Salerno, 
the Islands of the Sirens, immor¬ 
talized by Homer, and one of 
which contains ruins of an ancient 
Temple ; the coast near Amalfi, 
$c., and during the month of 
September immense nets for catch¬ 
ing quails are erected on this spot, 
below which is the Tunny fishery. 
The excursion to the Conti occu¬ 
pies four hours, if it be extended 
to a stupendous Arch, formed by 
the hand of nature, on the mar¬ 
gin of the Gulph of Salerno, 
which Arch, and the path leading 
to it, furnish fine subjects for the 
pencil 11 . 

Camaldoli, a suppressed, but 
once magnificent Convent, situ¬ 
ated on a summit of the Apennine, 
about two miles from Ponte Mag¬ 
giore, is likewise worth seeing ; 
and the present possessor allows 
strangers, who come provided with 
a cold dinner, to eat it in the re¬ 
fectory. 

The ride from Sorrento to 
Airola, and back, occupies about 
four hours ; and exhibits the most 
sublime and beautiful prospects in 
the whole neighbourhood. On 
reaching the foot of a hillock, 
crowned by the Church of Airola, 
the Traveller should turn to the 

Capo di Monte, and very near the town of 
Sorrento. 

(m) In order to see this Arcli, pass the 
wine-house on the summit of the bill be¬ 
tween the two Gulphs; then turn into the 
second path on the left, through a vine-yard; 
and pursue this path till you reacli the 
cliff; down which follow the goat-track, be* 
tween myrtles and other shrubs, till you 
arrive at the Arch. 


U 


290 


AMALFI 


left; passing through a lane ; and 
thence proceeding, through a per¬ 
gola to a cottage ; on the left of 
which are steps leading to a pretty 
Coppice, composed of arbuti, Me¬ 
diterranean heaths, and other 
shrubs; and at the extremity of 
this Coppice is a Cliff, which 
commands the whole Piano di 
Sorrento, the Bay of Naples, Ve¬ 
suvius, and part of the Gulph of 
Salerno. About four miles bevond 
the village of Airola is that of 
S. Maria del Castello; which 
commands a fine view of Amalfi, 
and the whole Gulph of Salerno; 
but Travellers, who extend their 
excursion to S. Maria del Castello, 
should carry a cold dinner with 
them. 

The ride from Sorrento to S. 
Again , and back, occupies about 
four hours; and exhibits fine 
prospects. 

The ride from Sorrento to 
Massa, a distance of between 
three and four miles, likewise ex¬ 
hibits fine prospects. This last- 
mentioned town, if we may credit 
ancient writers, was the favourite 
abode of the Sirens ; and the 
place where, during the age of 
Ulysses, there was an academy, 
renowned for learning and elo¬ 
quence ; but the students abused 
their knowledge, to the colouring 
of wrong, and the corruption of 
manners; consequently, the Si¬ 
rens were tabled, by the sweet¬ 
ness of their voices, to draw the 
unwary into ruin. Massa dis¬ 
plays vestiges of an Aqueduct; 

(o) A narrow open carriage, similar in 
width to those the wheels of which have 
left traces in the streets of Pompeii; chaises - 
a-porteur ; donkeys; and excellent mules, 
may be hired at Sorrento, and in its envi¬ 
ron?. For the open carriage the usual de¬ 
mand is one piastre per day—for a chaise - 
a-portcur from three to ten carlini, accord¬ 
ing to the distance: and time occupied—for 
a mule and guideto Casiel-a-mare and back. 


[Ch. XL 

and appears to have been once a 
considerable town: it does not, 
however, furnish an inn capable 
of accommodating Travellers; 
though good wine may be pro¬ 
cured at the wine-shops °. 

The excursion from Sorrento to 
Amalfi is particularly interesting, 
and may be accomplished, with 
ease, in the following manner, dur¬ 
ing a cool and tranquil day. From 
the Piano to that part of the Conti 
where begins a descent, called the 
Scaricatojo, Travellers may be 
conveyed either in chaises-a-por - 
tear, or on mules, in about one 
hour ; thence descending the moun¬ 
tain, on foot, to the Gulph of Saler- 
no,where aboat, orderedover night, 
and as large as the Marinella 
affords, should be in attendance p. 
The descent occupies rather more 
than an hour, and, though steep, 
is not dangerous. On reaching 
the Marinella, Travellers should 
embark, without loss of time, for 
Amalfi, passing Positano, a ro¬ 
mantically situated town, peopled 
by rich merchants, and adorned 
with handsome houses. The time 
occupied in rowing from the Ma¬ 
rinella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfi 
is, generally speaking, about three 
hours. The whole coast exhibits 
enchanting scenery, and the situ¬ 
ation of Amalfi is picturesque be- 
yonddescription. This town boasts 
much of its high antiquity ; and 
here, A.D. 1137, a copy of Justi¬ 
nian's Pandects was accidentally 
discovered. The Sea-Gate ap¬ 
pears to be ancient, and the Ca- 

from eight to ten carlini—for ditto, to S. 
Agata, Torca, or Capo-Campanella, six 
carlini—and for ditto, to Camaldoii, Airola, 
the Conti, or Massa, four carlini: but if 
the rider should dismount, and detain the 
mule and guide at any of the above named, 
places, ihe guide would expect at least one 
carlino an hour for this detention. 

(p) Most of these boats are small. 


Ch. XI.] AMALFI—CASTEL-A-MARE—CAPRI. 291 


thedral, a spacious and handsome 
edifice, stands proudly, on the site 
of a heathen Temple, and contains 
an antique Vase of porphyry, now 
the baptismal Font, together with 
two immense Columns of red 
oriental granite, similar to those 
in the church of S. Maria degli 
Angeli, at Rome. The Columns 
which adorn the high altar are 
likewise antique : and, under the 
cathedral, is a Crypt, supposed to 
be part ot the heathen Temple, 
and decorated with excellent Paint¬ 
ings, probably by the Florentine 
school. Amalfi is built in an am- 
phitheatrieal form ; and the upper 
part of the town exhibits magnifi¬ 
cent views, and contains some an¬ 
cient Greek Paintings. No com¬ 
fortable inn can be found here: 
but Travellers who bring their 
dinner with them, are permitted to 
dine in a Garden belonging to the 
Capuchin Convent. Large boats 
and skilful boatmen may be hired 
on the beach at Amalfi : and in 
case of a contrary wind for return¬ 
ing to the Scaricatojo, it is advis¬ 
able to hire one of these large 
boats, instead of going back in a 
small one. Cheap and good writ¬ 
ing paper may be purchased at 
Amalfi, as may wine, ice, fruit, ve¬ 
getables, and fish. Three hours 
should be allowed for rowing back 
to the Scaricatojo; one hour and 
a half for ascending the mountain, 
and about one hour for returning 
to the Piano di Sorrento <i. 

A pleasant water excursion may 
be made from Sorrento to Castel- 
a-mare, whither a Sorrento boat 
usually goes in one hour and a 
quarter, and returns in about two 

(q) The usual price for a mule from the 
town of Sorrento to the descent called the 
Scaricatojo, is fourcarlini; and for the same 
mule from the Scaricatojo to Sorrento, four 
carlini. The usual price for a boat with four 


hours. Castel-a-mare, situated at 
the foot of the hill on which stood 
the ancient Stabiae, is encircled by 
a beautiful country, and embellish¬ 
ed with a Quay, made by the 
French. Here are several small 
Lodging-houses, hut no inns fit to 
sleep at. On the hill above Cas¬ 
tel-a-mare is a Villa belonging to 
the King of Naples, together with 
two or three large lodging-houses, 
delightfully situated in the vicinity 
ol shady walks and rides ; and on. 
this hill it is possible to trace the 
site of Stab ice, but nothing more, 
as the excavations made in that 
village have been filled up. Sculp¬ 
ture, Paintings, and a considerable 
number of Papyri were found in 
Stabite, but very few skeletons ; 
therefore it is supposed the inha¬ 
bitants had time to escape, before 
their dwelling-place was entombed 
by the ashes from Vesuvius. 

Carriages and donkeys may be 
hired at Castel-a-mare to convey 
Travellers to Pompeii, which is 
not four miles distant. 

Another pleasant water excur¬ 
sion may be made to Capri. This 
island, situated about three leagues 
and a half from Sorrento, and 
about eight from Naples, was an¬ 
ciently called Caprecc, and is ce¬ 
lebrated for having been the re¬ 
tiring-place of Augustus, and the 
residence, during several years, of 
Tiberius. It is nine miles in cir¬ 
cumference, and contains about 
nine thousand inhabitants, and two 
towns, Capri and Ana-Capri, the 
latter being situated on the summit 
of a rock, to which there is an ascent 
of above five hundred steps. The 
people chiefly consist of mechanics, 

oars, and places for four passengers,from the 
Marinella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfi, is 
one piastre; and for a boat with six oars, 
and places for six passengers, from Amalfi 
to the Marinella, three ducats. 

u 2 


202 


CAPRI. 


husbandmen, and sailors ; perfect 
equality reigns among them, every 
body appears industrious, nobody 
seems poor, and so salubrious is 
the climate that scarce any mala¬ 
dies visit the island. The most 
comfortable way of managing this 
excursion is to hire a ten-oared 
boat, taking a cold dinner, bread, 
salad, fruit, plates, glasses, knives, 
forks, c3 -c., but no wine : that be¬ 
ing excellent at Capri, and setting 
out very early in the morning, as 
sixteen hours are required for 
rowing to the island, seeing every 
thing worth observation there, and 
returning. When Travellers land, 
donkeys are immediately brought 
down to the beach, for their ac¬ 
commodation r ; and the best mode 
of proceeding is to mount these 
animals, and ride to the Steps 
leading up to Ana-Capri; dis¬ 
mounting at the steps ; walking 
up, and sending the donkeys be¬ 
fore. On arriving at the top of 
the steps, you find a good mule- 
patli, and may therefore remount, 
and ride round Ana-Capri. On 
returning to the steps, it is again 
prudent to dismount, and walk 
down, sending the animals before. 
Having reached the Plain, ride or 
walk to Capri, and then proceed 
to a Villa above the town, on the 
way to the eastern Promontory , 
where stood Tiberius's Palace; 
dine in this Villa, the owner of 
which will give the use of his house 
and kitchen, and provide a large 
party with wine, for two ducats. 
After dinner remount the donkeys, 
and ride to the Piscina of Tibe- 
rius's Palace, called Villa Jovis, 
and supposed to have been erect¬ 
ed by Augustus. Near this Villa 
are ruins of an ancient Light¬ 
house ; beyond which, in consc- 


[Ch, XI. 

quence of a recent excavation, 
small Rooms, and a Corridor, with 
M osaic Pavements, have been dis¬ 
covered. Among the ruins of the 
Villa vestiges of Baths, and a 
Theatre, may still be found; and 
after having examined these, and 
contemplated the magnificent view 
from the summit of the lofty rock, 
once crowned by the Villa, return 
to the Beach. 

Tiberius had twelve Villas at 
Capri, all magnificent, and well 
fortified: but as persons were 
sent hither on the death of the 
tyrant to demolish his works, and 
not leave one stone upon another, 
it is difficult to ascertain where 
all these Villas stood. The Monte 
di S. Michele, however, exhibits 
extensive ruins, and a long range 
of vaulted Apartments, in a semi¬ 
circular form, together with traces 
of an ancient Road leading to the 
summit of the hill. Mosaic Pave¬ 
ments were found on the height 
where the Fortress is placed ; and 
on the northern coast are remains 
of a building still called llPalazzo, 
and supposed to have been one of 
the imperial winter habitations. 

The best water on the Island is 
to be found at the Villa Jovis. 
The town of Capri contains no 
inn, but there is a private house, 
where Travellers may, in case of 
necessity, be provided with beds. 
Immense flights of quails visit this 
Island during the month of Sep¬ 
tember, and are caught in nets by 
the inhabitants, to supply the 
Naples market. 

The usual price of a twelve- 
oared boat by the day, at Sor¬ 
rento, is from four to five ducats, 
including a dinner for the boat¬ 
men, who are deemed the most 
skilful mariners in Italy, and these 

m 9 


(r) Chuises-a-porteur may likewise be procured in the town of Capri. 


PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 


233 


Ch. XI.] 

sons of Neptune celebrate annu¬ 
ally, at Sorrento, on the first Sun¬ 
day in August, a marine Festival, 
particularly interesting 1 to Travel¬ 
lers, because supposed to be now 
precisely the same as in ages of 
remote antiquity. It concludes 
with a dance in the sea, performed 
by mariners, whose dexterity in 
leaping out of their boats, diving, 
and throwing fountains of water 
on each other, is admirable 8 . 

EXCURSION TO THE ISLANDS OP 
PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 

As good accommodations mav 
be procured at Ischia, the most 
comfortable manner of making 
this excursion is to hire a boat at 
Naples for two or three days, vi¬ 
siting Procida first, and Ischia 
afterward. We pursued this plan, 
taking a cold dinner with us, and 
determining to dine at Procida 
and sleep at Ischia. As the wea¬ 
ther was warm, we set out early, 
and, after doubling the Cape of 
Pausilipo, passed a picturesque 
Hermitage, together with several 
ruins of ancient buildings, and, 
among others, those commonly 
called The Schools of Virgil, but 
conjectured to have been a Villa 
belonging to Luc all us. We then 
rowed under the Promontory of 
Misenum , to obtain a good view 
of this great Harbour of the Ro¬ 
mans, and arrived at Procida in 
two hours and a half, from the time 
when we left Naples, the distance 
being about four leagues. Pro¬ 
cida, (called by the Greeks Pro- 
chyta,) though a small island, is 
remarkably populous, and its inha¬ 
bitants are reputed to be rich: the 
women dress in the Greek style, 

(s') We paid for each mule and donkey, at 
Capri, six carlini; to each guide two car- 
lini; to the Cicerone half a piastre ; and to 
the custom-house officer three carlini. 


the men wear Phrygian caps (as 
do all the mariners in the Bay of 
Naples,) and it is said they retain 
many of the ancient Grecian cus¬ 
toms. The grapes, figs, and wine 
of Procida are excellent; the houses 
flat roofed, with terraces on the 
top ; and the staircases generally 
on the outside of the walls. We 
were permitted to dine in a large 
shooting-seat belonging to the 
King of Naples, and delightfully 
situated on the brow of a cliff 
overhanging the sea. From the 
landing-place to this royal Villa is 
a short mile; and after contem¬ 
plating the beautiful views in its 
vicinity, we re-embarked, and pro¬ 
ceeded to Ischia, anciently called 
Inarime, and Pithecusa t , and 
about six leagues distant from 
Naples. According to some opi¬ 
nions Ischia is the offspring of a 
volcano, and certainly it appears 
to have suffered severely from vol¬ 
canic eruptions, though, during 
the last three hundred years, no¬ 
thing of this kind has happened. 
It is eighteen miles in circumfer¬ 
ence, and famed for hot baths, 
which, in summer, are much fre¬ 
quented ; and likewise for mineral 
waters, supposed to have been in 
several cases salutary. The town 
of Furio contains a Chapel which 
merits notice. The whole island 
is beautiful, and from the heights 
of Monte di Vico, and Monte S. 
Nicolo, the Epopeus of the ('las¬ 
sies, the views arc particularly fine. 

Ischia produces some of the best 
wines in the vicinity of Naples, 
and contains a good Lodging and 
Boarding House, belonging to a 
person known by the name of Don 
Tommaso. 

(if) Ischia and Procida are supposed (o 
have been originally united under the name 
of Pithecusa:. 


294 


CHAPTER XII. 

RETURN TO ENGLAND, THROUGH GERMANY. 


Journey from Rome through Perugia to Florence—Objects best worth notice on that 
road—Hannibal’s route into Italy—Journey from Florence to Dresden—Ferrara— 
Rovigo—Padua—Baths of Abano—Arqua—Venice—Objects best worthy notice—Basi¬ 
lica of S. Marco—Palazzo Ex-Ducale—Accademia delle Belle Arti—Chiese de’ Gesuiti 
—dei Carmilitani—del Carmine—di S. S. Giovanni e Paolo—di S. Giorgio maggiore— 
del Redentore—di S. Maria della Salute—Palazzi Pisani-Moreta—Grimani—Barberigo 
—Scuola di S. Rocco—Palazzo-Manfrini—Arsenal—Promenades—Theatres—Hotels— 
Water—Conegliano—Pordenon—Tagliamento—S. Tommaso—Ponteba—Custom-house 
there—Villach—Beds and Provisions in Germany—Table linen—Peasantry—Country 
Towns, 4 C -—Klagenfurt—Friesach—Judenburg—Leoben —Merzhofen — Schottwien— 
Traskirken — Vienna — Custom-house — Hotels — Imperial Residence — Cathedral — 
Churches of S. Peter—S. Michael—the Augustine3—Capuchins—S. Charles and S. 
Rupert—Imperial Arsenal, and other public buildings—Fountain—Imperial Libraries 
—Jewels—Medals—Cabinet of Natural History—Belvedere Gallery of Paintings— 
Xiichtenslein Gallery—Porcelain Manufacture—Prater—Lau Garten—Schoenbrunn— 
Coffee-houses—Water—National Dish—Theatres—Population—Distance from Florence 
—Stockerau—Znairn—Schelletau—Iglau—Steckeu — Czaslau— Planian—Prague — Po¬ 
pulation—Objects best worth notice—Inns—Budin—Lobositz—Aussig—Peterswald—- 
Inns between that town and Dresden—Saxon Peasants—Custom-house—Dresden— 
Population—Architecture—Religion—Character of the Inhabitants—Inns—Objects best 
worth a Traveller’s attention—Mode of obtaining admittance to the Picture Gallery, 
4c‘.—List of some of the most striking Pictures—Treasury—Cabinet of antique Sculp¬ 
ture—Dresden China—Theatres—Distance from Vienna to Dresden—Ditto from Dres¬ 
den to Hamburgh—Voyage down the Elbe to the last named city—Population of Ham- 
Burgh—Description of the Town and Port—Inns—Private Lodgings—Sagacity of a 
Stork—Voyage from Hamburgh to Cuxhaveu—Harwich Packets—Prices—Days on 
which these Vessels sail—Inns at Cuxhaveu. 


Wishing to see the Cascade of 
Terni, and the celebrated Lake of 
Trasymenus, we took the Peru- 
gia-road from Rome to Florence ; 
and found it so very interesting, 
that I shall give a brief account of 
the objects best worth attention. 

Civita-Castellana, supposed by 
some writers to be the ancient 
Veil, though more probably the 
ancient Fescenniuin, was the first 
town which attracted our notice ; 
and is, in point of situation, par¬ 
ticularly strong and beautiful. 

Narni, the next considerable 
town in this road, was formerly 
called Nequinum, from the obsti¬ 
nacy of its citizens ; who, during 
a siege, killed their wives and chil¬ 
dren, in order to save their pro¬ 


visions ; and, when all these were 
consumed, chose rather to lay vio¬ 
lent hands upon themselves than 
surrender. This place gave birth 
to the Emperor Nerva. 

A little beyond Narni, and about 
a mile out of the road, are remains 
of a magnificent Bridge , supposed 
to have been thrown, by Augus¬ 
tus, over the river Nera, (anciently 
the Nm\) for the purpose of unit¬ 
ing two hills. In order to exa¬ 
mine this stately ruin, we made 
our carriages wait in the road to 
Terni, while we walked down the 
hill at whose foot the bridge pre¬ 
sents itself. It consists of large 
stones joined together without any 
cement or iron cramps, and cut, 
on their outsides, into the form of 


CASCADE OF TERNL 


295 


Ch. XII.] 

diamonds. On the dryland, next 
to Narni, is one entire arch, the 
piers of which are above forty 
common paces asunder. The piers 
still remaining* in the water prove 
the immense size of the other 
arches ; which were not, however, 
of an equal diameter. The length 
of this bridge is supposed to have 
been S50 Roman pal mi ; and a Ro¬ 
man architectural palmo is nearly 
nine English inches. The dis¬ 
tance between the piers of the first 
arch is computed to be 100 pal mi, 
and its height 150; the distance 
between the piers of the second, 
ISO palmi ; that between those of 
the third, 150 ; and the last arch, 
which ends on the other side of 
the Nera, is 190 palmi in breadth. 

Term derives its ancient name, 
Jnteramna , from the two arms of 
the Nera, between which it is si¬ 
tuated. Cornelius Tacitus, and 
the Emperors Tacitus and Floria- 
nus, were born in this city, which 
contains the ruins of an Amphi¬ 
theatre in the Episcopal Garden, 
and those of a Temple of the Sun, 
in the church of S. Salvadore. At 
S. Siro, in the cellars of the Col¬ 
lege, are the remains of a Temple 
of Hercules, and in the Casina of 
the Casa-Spada, some ruins of 
ancient Baths u . 

Four miles from Terni is the 
famous Cascade, called Caduta 
delle Marmore, and formed by the 
fall of the Velino, (anciently the 
Velinus,) into the Nera. These 
cataracts are said to have been 
made about the year of Rome 671, 
by Curius Dentatus, who, in order 
to drain the territory of Rieti of 
its standing waters, cut channels, 
through which he discharged them 
into the Velino, and thence into 
the Nera, forming by these means 
a cascade, consisting of three leaps, 


the first computed to be 309 Eng¬ 
lish feet, the two others, united, 
between four and five hundred. 
Wishing to see these cataracts in 
perfection, we set out from Terni 
about ten o’clock of a clear morn¬ 
ing, and ascended the Monte di 
Marmore in calashes, till we ap¬ 
proached the Velino, which an¬ 
nounces itself at a considerable 
distance by its thundering noise. 
We then walked to view the nar¬ 
row pass through which it rushes 
down the fall of 300 feet; and af¬ 
terward proceeded to a temple 
built on a promontory, for the 
purpose of contemplating the three 
leaps together. Here we remained 
till twelve o’clock; when the effect 
of the sun upon water which, from 
the velocity of its fall, rises into 
vapours, resembling millions of 
curled white feathers, is beautiful 
beyond description • indeed, there 
are very few celestial rainbows 
half so brilliant as the terrestrial 
ones at Terni. After having seen 
these, we returned to the bottom 
of the Monte di Marmore ; and 
then dismounted from our calashes, 
and walked to view the cataract 
from below. This walk occupied 
nearly two hours ; it lies through 
a Gentleman’s grounds, of which 
nothing can exceed the beauty, 
except the stupendous cataracts 
by which they are terminated. 

Spoleti, or Spoleto, (formerly 
Spoletum,) is a very ancient citv, 
sit uated on the acclivity of a moun¬ 
tain, and watered by the Clitum- 
nus, celebrated in days of yore for 
the whiteness of the cattle which 
grazed near it. The citizens of 
Spoleto repulsed Hannibal imme¬ 
diately after the battle of Trasy- 
menus ; and they still preserve a 
gate, called Porta-Fuga, with an 
inscription in memory of this event. 


(w) Near Terni stands Rieti, anciently Reate, celebrated for its Yale of Tempe. 


296 


PERUGIA, 


[Ch. XII, 


The Cathedral contains paintings, 
bassi-rilievi, and ancient mosaics. 
The Aqueduct is a beautiful fabric, 
supported by stone arches, and, in 
one part, by a double arcade, said 
to be 390 feet high. 

Between Spoleto and Foligno, 
and close to the road, is the Temple 
of Clitumnus, now converted into 
a chapel, and dedicated to S. Sal- 
vadore. The front toward the 
plain is adorned with four pillars, 
two pilasters, and a pediment: the 
edifice is oblong, and exhibits the 
following words cut in stone: “ T. 
Septimius Plebeius v ." 

Foligno , anciently Fulginas , 
stands on the Via Flaminia ; and 
contains a Cathedral, the altar 
and frescos in which merit notice. 

Between Foligno and Perugia 
lies Assisi, (anciently Assisium,) 
the birth-place of S. Francesco w . 
It is situated on a hill so near to 
the great road, that Travellers 
may visit it with ease. The church 
of S. Francesco, in this city, con¬ 
tains several pictures of the old 
school, which are worth notice. The 
Monastery of Francescan nuns, 
called the nuns of St. Clare, like¬ 
wise deserves attention ; and the 
Church of S. Maria, or the Fili- 
pini, once a temple of Minerva, 
is a beautiful piece of antiquity. 

Perugia, (anciently Augusta 
Perusia,) the capital of the rich 
and charming province of Umbria, 
and once the strongest city of 
Etruria, displays a handsome mo¬ 
dern Gate, (the Porta S. Pietro,) 
and contains antiquities, and paint¬ 
ings of the old school, well worth 
observation; but, exclusive of this, 
Travellers should sleep here, in or- 

( v ) It does not appear certain that the 
present chapel of S. Salvadore was an* 
ciently the temple of Clitumnus. Pliny 
places this temple near the source of the 
river: and £astonius says, that Caligula 
went to Mevania to see the emple of Cli- 


der to avoid passing a night at Tor- 
ricella. Perugia is magnificently 
situated on the summit of a lofty 
mountain of the Apennine, and 
seems by nature almost impregna¬ 
ble: such, indeed, Avas the strength 
of this city, and such the valour of 
its inhabitants, that Hannibal did 
not venture to attack it, even after 
having gained the important battle 
of Trasymenus: and, to this mo¬ 
ment, the Perugians are famed 
for being the most daring and fe¬ 
rocious of the Roman people. 

Between Torricella and Ca- 
muscia, at five miles’ distance from 
the former, is the miserable vil¬ 
lage of Passignano, rendered fa¬ 
mous by the above-named vic¬ 
tory gained near this spot by 
Hannibal, 217years before Christ. 

S ix miles further on, is the Ponte~ 
Sanguinetto, situated below a vil¬ 
lage of the same name, and both so 
called from the effusion of Roman 
blood spilt there. 

Between Passignano and the 
rivulet called Sanguinetto, the site 
of the Roman camp, and the 
Pass through which Hannibal 
came down from the heights, may 
be discovered. 

Four miles further on is Spi- 
longa, a small hamlet on the con¬ 
fines of Tuscany; and three miles 
from Spilonga, stands Ossaia , 
where, on a house in the street, is 
the following inscription:— 

“ Nomen habet locus hie Ursija, ab os- 
sibus illis 

“ Qiuc dolus Annibalis fudit & hasta 
simul.” 

“ This place bears the name 
of Ossaia, from the bones of those 
unfortunate men Avhoin Hannibal 
slew here.” 

tumnus. The small town of Bevagna un¬ 
questionably stands upon the site of the 
ancient Mevania, which lies to the west of 
the liver Timia, and at the influx of the 
Tacarena and Rucciano into the Clitumnus. 

(to) Metastasio also was born at Assisi. 


297 


Cli. XII.] HANNIBAL'S ROUTE INTO ITALY. 


Ossaia is by many writers sup¬ 
posed to have been the actual 
field of battle; though, perhaps, 
it rather was the hill to which the 
small remains of Flaminius’s troops 
retired: because, thirteen miles, 
the reputed dista nce between Pas- 
signano and Ossaia, seems too 
large a space for the contending 
armies to have occupied. Jt is 
impossible to view the country be¬ 
tween Passignano and Ossaia, 
without feeling the highest admi¬ 
ration of the military skill of 
Hannibal ; who contrived, on an 
enemy’s ground, to draw that ene¬ 
my into a narrow, swampy, and 
uncommonly foggy plain, where 
no army, however brave, could 
long have defended itself; for on 
three sides are heights, which 
were possessed by the troops of 
Carthage ; and, on the other, is 
a large unfordable lake. 

On the hill above Camuscia, 
and within the distance of a walk, 
stands Cortona , (formerly Cori- 
tus ,) said to be the most ancient 
of the twelve great cities of Etru¬ 
ria, and famed, in the days of Py¬ 
thagoras, for the bodily strength 
of its inhabitants and the salu¬ 
brity of its air. In the Cathedral 
is a large antique Sarcophagus, 
supposed to be that of the unfor¬ 
tunate Consul Flaminius; and 
representing the battle of the La- 
pithfe with the Centaurs. Many 

(Ancient Names.) 

Septa . 

j Fret uni Erculeum 

Calpe . 

Country of the 

Jiastuli 

Malaca . 

Country of the 

Bastiani 

Cartago-nova . . 


of the churches are curious 
in point of architecture ; r \ and 
most of them contain good pic¬ 
tures, both of the old and new 
school. Several of the private 
houses contain valuable paint¬ 
ings. The ancient Etruscan Walls 
of this city are in some places dis¬ 
coverable ; they were formed of 
immense blocks of marble, with¬ 
out any cement whatsoever; and, 
in the museum of the academy, 
and in those which belong to the 
nobles of Cortona, are other 
Etruscan antiquities. 

Arezzo , (anciently Aretium,) 
is remarkable for the extensive 
view from its fortress; and remains 
of the ancient Amphitheatre are 
still to be seen. Arezzo gave 
birth to Petrarca. 

As the subject of this chapter 
has led me to speak of Hannibal, 
I will subjoin a detail of what ap¬ 
pears to have been his route into 
Italy, which I have traced from 
an ancient map as far as Em- 
bruin upon the river Durance in 
Dauphine, and afterward found¬ 
ed upon the authority of Polybius, 
strengthened by the present ap¬ 
pearance of the ground. 

Hannibal set out in the midst 
of winter U. C. 535, with an 
army of fifty thousand foot, and 
nine thousand horse, beside ele¬ 
phants, from 


(Modern Names.) 

Ceuta, in Africa, a sea-port, and crossed to 
The Straits of Gibraltar ; whence he probably 
proceeded by sea to 

Tariff a, the Pillar of Hercules in Europe ; 

then passed through the 
The Kingdom of Granada, in Spain , to 

Malaga ; and thence proceeded through the 
The Kingdom of Murcia, to the camp of Spar- 
tarius, thence going to 
Carthagena, and traversing the 




SOS HANNIBAL'S ROUTE INTO ITALY. [Ch. XII. 

(Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.) 

r> 'ovince of Con- The Kingdom of Valentia, to 
testanorum 

Alone x ...... Alicant; at which sea-port it seems probable 

that lie embarked his troops, and passed up 
the river 

Sucro ....... Segura, or Xucar, to 

Valencia, thence proceeding' along 1 the river 

Jherus .. . Ebro, through the 

Country of the The Principality of Catalonia, to 
Illercaones 

Tarraco, or Tar- Tarragona, and 
outgo 

Cariago-Vetus Villa-Franca : he then crossed the 
Rubricatus .... The River Llobregat, proceeded to, and cross¬ 
ed, the 

Gerunda ..... The River Gerona, and then came to 

Rhoda . Rosas: though some authors assert, that he 

followed the course of the Gerona to the Py¬ 
renean mountains, and crossed thence into 
Gaul. From Rosas, however, according to 
the map, he went to 

Veneris Fanum . Port Vendres, thence to 

Caucoliberis, or Collioure, in the Province of the Voices Teclo- 

llliberis sages, or Rossiglione ; thence he proceeded to 

Karbo . Narbonne, the Country of the Bebricas , and 

thence to 

Agatha ...... Montpellier and 

Nemausus . Nismes; when, passing through the country of 

the Volccc Arecomii, he proceeded to the banks 
of the 

Rhodanns . The Rhone, down which river he passed to 

Avenio . Avignon; thence traversing 

The Country of the Provence, to Dauphine, the country of the Al- 
Cassuares lobroges; thence he proceeded to 

Augusta Tricas- S. Paul-trois-Chateauoc, and then went by the 

trinonum river 

Druentia . . . . : Durance, to 

Embrodunus . . . Embrun; whence he marched to, and crossed 
Mons Vesulus, or Monte Viso, one of the great Alps, said to be 
Visits 9997 English feet in height, but not so difficult 

of access as are many of those mountains ; it 
lies almost in a direct line with Embrun, and 
the road to it is not strongly guarded by nar¬ 
row defiles, as are many passages into Italy. 
Thence he went to 

Pinarolum .... Pignerol, a city of Upper Dauphine, about 20 

miles from Turin; thence he followed the 
course of the 

(.r) Called, by some authors, Lucenium. 








Ch. XII.] HANNIBAL'S ROUTE INTO ITALY. 299 

(Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.) 

Pad us . Po, then went to 

Alba-Pompeia . . Albe 

Dortona ,. Tortona, and 

Ticinum, . Pavia ; crossed the river 

Trebia, subdued 
Piacenza , 

Parma , 

Regium . The Kingdom of Modena, and 

Mutina . Modena itself; then came to 

Fasula . Fiesole ; thence proceeded to 

Aretium . Arezzo ; and thence to 

Trasimeme .... The lake of Perugia, or Trasymenus. 

Hannibal is supposed to have nibal: moreover, a friend of mine, 
passed through Gaul, to the foot who ascended Viso, told me, the 
of the Alps, in ten days. It seems plains of Italy were discernible 
an impossibility that lie should from its summit. On this point, 
have reached the Fenestrelles, Ce- however, I cannot speak from my 
nis, S. Bernard, or S. Gothard, in own knowledge ; as I only visited 
so short a time. It likewise seems the base of the mountain, 
improbable that lie should have re- From Florence to Dresden we 
jected the passage of Monte Yiso, travelled en voiturier; and though 
which lay directly before him, to our time of setting* out was the 
search for some other at a greater middle of April, yet, even at that 
distance; especially as his only mild season, the wind on the Apen- 
route to that other was through nine, between Florence and Bo- 
narrow and dangerous defiles. He logna, was so piercing, that a lady 
is said, by Polybius, to have passed of our party became, in conse- 
through the country of the Alio- quenee, alarmingly ill: and like- 
broges, over an immense Alp, wise, in passing through Germany, 
whence he saw and pointed out to she suffered severely from stoves, 
his soldiers the rich and beautiful which are universally substituted 
plains of Italy ; after which he for fire-places ; from damp beds ; 
immediately descended into valleys for there are no warming-pans, 
watered by the Po. nor any other machine for drying 

All this exactly describes Monte beds in Germany ; from the keen 
Yiso, on the Italian side of which air of the Alps between Venice 
lie the plains of Piedmont, and and Vienna ; from the severity of 
through these plains runs the Po, the climate in Moravia and Bo- 
which rises at the foot of Mount hernia ; and from the excessive 
Viso. Polybius likewise says, the roughness of the roads between 
first city taken by Hannibal in Prague and Dresden. Neverthe- 
Italy was Turin; and that, too, less, we endeavoured to guard 
might be; for Turin is only twenty against some of these inconve- 
miles distant from Pignerol. niences, by providing ourselves 

When I was at Lausanne, I with fur travelling caps, warm pe- 
consulted Gibbon, who resided lisses, shoes and boots lined with 
there, with respect to this route ; fur and great coats, which we were 
and he seemed to think it might glad to put upon our beds in Mo- 
probably be that pursued by Han- ravia and Bohemia ; where there 









FERRARA—PADUA. 


300 

are no coverlids, except small 
eyder-down quilts, which generally 
slip off ere the night be half spent. 
But, notwithstanding every pre¬ 
caution that prudence can suggest, 
it seems to me impossible for in¬ 
valids, in general, and especially 
those who are afflicted with pul¬ 
monary complaints, to attempt 
taking this journey without risk 
to their lives. 

As I have already given an ac¬ 
count of the road between Flo¬ 
rence and Bologna, I shall only 
say that, after remaining a short 
time at the last-named place, we 
proceeded, in five hours and a 
half, to Ferrara ; through a good 
road, and a remarkably rich coun¬ 
try. Midway between this city 
and Bologna is a neat and pleasant 
inn, the Albergo della Fenice, 
called II Te, where Travellers may 
dine or sleep. 

Ferrara is a fortified town, ce¬ 
lebrated for containing, in its pub¬ 
lic Library, the Tomb of Ariosto, 
his Chair, Inkstand, and hand¬ 
writing ; together with a bronze 
Medallion of that great Poet, 
found in his tomb ; where likewise 
was found an account of his last 
illness and death. This Library 
also contains the original Manu¬ 
scripts of Tasso's Gerusalemme 
Liberata, and Guarini’s Pastor 
Fido, with several Volumes of 
Music, illuminated by Gosmei : 
and in the Hospital of S. Anna, 
Travellers are shewn the Cell 
where Tasso was confined. The 
inn we slept at, (I tre Mori,) is 
large, but comfortless; the climate 
of Ferrara is unwholesome, and 
the water bady. 

Our next day’s journey was to 
Monselice; and occupied ten hours 
and a half; the road being, for 


[Ch. XII, 

some miles, sandy. Soon after 
quitting Ferrara, we crossed the 
Po, on a pont-volant ; and beyond 
Rovigo passed the Adige in a si¬ 
milar conveyance. The Post- 
house at Monselice is a good inn. 
Next day, we proceeded to Mestre 
in nine hours and a half, exclusive 
of the time spent at Padua, in 
seeing that city. 

Padua, the birth-place of Livy, 
is large, and strongly fortified; 
but not handsome, its University 
excepted; which was built by 
Palladio. This University, founded 
by the Emperor Frederick n., in 
opposition to that of Bologna, once 
contained eighteen thousand stu¬ 
dents ; .and still possesses public 
Schools, a chemical Laboratory, 
an anatomical Theatre, a Museum 
of natural history, and a botanic 
Garden. 

The Palazzo della Giustizia 
contains an immense Town-hall, 
the ceiling and walls of which were 
originally painted by Giotto and his 
scholars; and re-touched, in 17G2, 
by Zannoni: the ceiling, however, 
was destroyed, in consequence of 
the roof blowing off; but the 
paintings on the walls remain. 
This apartment contains a Mo¬ 
nument to the memory of Livy, 
and two Egyptian Statues. 

The Palazzo del Podestd con¬ 
tains a painting, by Palma il Gio- 
vane, of our Saviour blessing the 
city of Padua. 

The Duomo contains a modern 
Monument to the memory of Pe- 
trarca ; a Madonna, by Giotto, 
which once belonged to Petrarca; 
and, in the Sacristy, a portrait of 
that Poet .among the other Ca¬ 
nons. 

The Church dedicated to S. 
Antonio di Padova was begun by 


( y ) Boats large enough to accommodate a family may he hired, at Ferrara, to go to 
Venice; and this voyage occupies about twenty hours. 


Ch. XII.J 

Niccolo Pisano, in 1255; and 
finished by Sansovino, in 1307: it 
contains Statues of Cardinal Bem- 
bo, and other eminent Charac¬ 
ters ; bassi-rilievi by T. and A. 
Lombardo, Sansovino, Campag- 
na, Sfc.y a Crucifix, by Dona¬ 
tello; and Frescos, by Giotto. 
The adjoining 1 Scuola contains 
Frescos, by Titian: and in the 
Area, before the Church, is an 
equestrian Statue, by Donatello, 
of the famous General, surnamed 
Gattamelata. 

The Church dedicated to S. 
Giustina, built by Andrea Riccio, 
after the designs of Palladio, and 
deemed a fine specimen of archi¬ 
tecture, is adorned with a cele¬ 
brated painting over the high- 
altar, by Paolo Veronese ; toge¬ 
ther with beautiful bassi-rilievi, 
said to have been executed by 
Ileichard, a French artist: they 
ornament the Stalls in the Choir. 

Padua contains good hotels ; 
the most comfortable of which is 
the Stella d'ora: and from this 
city a public Passage-boat sets out 
every morning, at an early hour, 
for A r enice z . 

The drive from Monseliee to 
Padua is extremely interesting • 
as the road runs parallel with the 
Canal leading to Venice ; and is 
bordered with Villas, built after 
the designs of Palladio, and em¬ 
bellished with a fine view of the 
Rhcetian Alps. The road from 
Padua to Mestre is likewise inte- 

( z ) The village of Abano , anciently Apo- 
nhtm, between five and six miles from 
Padua, is much frequented during summer, 
on account of the Warm Bat!i3 iui»s neigh¬ 
bourhood ; where the Sudatory, and Bug- 
no di Fan go, or Mud-Bath, are said to have 
proved, in many cases,beneficial. It seems 
doubtful whether Pliny, by the Fontes Fa- 
tivini , means the present Baths of Abano ; 
because he reports the former to have emit¬ 
ted smells from which the latter are exempt. 
About six miles from Abano is the Villa 
Cutajo, celebrated for frescos, by Paolo 


301 

resting ; as it exhibits a fine view 
of Venice. 

After sleeping at Mestre, where 
there is a comfortable Hotel, and 
a good remise for carriages, we 
embarked, next morning, in a 
gondola; which conveyed us, in 
about two hours, to Venice, for 
five francs and a half, buona- 
rnano inclusive: we were, however, 
stopped twice on our voyage, by 
Austrian custom-house officers, 
and obliged to present them with 
a couple of francs a . 

Venice, one of the most con- 
derable cities in Italy, and sup¬ 
posed to derive its name from the 
Veneti, who peopled the neigh¬ 
bouring 1 coasts, is built upon piles 
in the midst of shallows, called 
Lagunes, and reputed to contain 
about a hundred thousand inha¬ 
bitants. 

It is scarce possible to discover 
the magnificent edifices of Venice 
floating, as it were, on the bosom 
of the deep, without exclaiming ; 
Singular and beautiful city! of 
whose appearance imagination 
can form no idea, because no 
other work of man is like thee. 
Enchantment seems to have raised 
thy walls for the abode of the 
monarch ot the ocean, when he 
chooses to desert his pearl-paved 
caves, and emerge above the sur¬ 
face of his watery kingdom ! 

Venice is seven miles in cir¬ 
cumference, and composed of a 
large number of small islands, se- 

Veronese. One mile from Catnjo is the 
little town of Bataglia, so named from the 
rapid conflux of two rivulets: and about 
three miles from Bataglia lies Arqua, or 
Arquato, imbosomed in the Euganean hills, 
and famous for having been the residence 
and burial-place of Petrarca. 

(a) Travellers who have no carriage of 
their own, frequently embark at Franco- 
lino, which is five miles from Ferrara; and 
go all the way to Venice by water ; a voy¬ 
age of eighty miles, on the Po, the Adige, 
the Brenta, and the Lagunes. 


VENICE. 


302 


VENICE. 


parated by canals, and re-united 
by bridges: the great canal, which 
is in the form of an S, dividing 
the city into two nearly equal 
parts. The Rialto, the Piazza 
di S. Marco, containing the 
Church dedicated to that Evange¬ 
list, and its Campanile three hun¬ 
dred feet in height, together with 
all the Churches and Palaces 
erected by Palladio, Sansovino, 
Scamozzi, and San Michele, par¬ 
ticularly merit notice ; as does the 
Arsenal, though an empty sha¬ 
dow now, of its former self: but 
what excites most interest at Ve¬ 
nice is to observe how amply and 
conveniently this city is supplied, 
not only with the necessaries but 
the luxuries of life; though it 
possesses naturally neither soil 
nor fresh water. 

The Basilica of S. Marco is 
reputed to be the most ancient 
Christian temple in Italy. On the 
outside, above the principal en¬ 
trance, is a figure of S. Mark 
finely executed in mosaic. The in¬ 
terior of the edifice is completely 
lined with Mosaics ; and those in 
the Chapel of the Madonna are 
particularly well executed: the 
Pavement is Mosaic; and the 
Doors, which were brought from 
Constantinople, are Corinthian 
brass. The celebrated Horses of 
bronze gilt, carried to Paris by 
Napoleon, but now returned, and 
extremely ill placed on the outside 
of the church, are four in num¬ 
ber ; and, according to general 
opinion, the work of Lysippus: 
they originally adorned Corinth ; 
where, it is supposed, they be¬ 
longed to the chariot of the sun: 
from Corinth they were brought 
to Rome by the Consul Mmnmius, 

(b) The Treasury of the Church of S. 
Marco is said to contain the Gosocl of S. 
Mark, written with his own hand j and a 


[Ch. XII. 

(surnamed Achaicus, for having 
sacked the first-mentioned city ;) 
thence they were removed to By¬ 
zantium, and thence to Venice: 
Wmckelmann calls them the finest 
bronze horses extant b . 

The view from the top of the 
Campanile of S. Marco is parti¬ 
cularly well worth seeing ; and 
the ascent particularly easy. This 
Tower was the place where Gali¬ 
leo made his astronomical ob¬ 
servations. 

The Palazzo Ex-Ducale con¬ 
tains, in the great Council Cham¬ 
ber, Tintoretto’s largest easel- 
picture ; which serves to shew how 
entirely great talents may be 
thrown away by want of proper 
attention to methodical arrange¬ 
ment ; the whole performance ex¬ 
hibiting a mass of confusion ; 
though it abounds with fine groups, 
and in some parts is wonderfully 
well executed. On the Ceiling of 
this apartment is a Fresco, by 
Paolo Veronese, representing Ve¬ 
nice crowned by Fame! and among 
the sculpture is a beautiful group, 
in marble, of Ganymedes and the 
Eagle, attributed to Phidias. The 
Hall with four doors, contains a 
painting, by Titian, of Faith, S. 
Mark, §c. The Hall of the Inquisi¬ 
tion is ornamented with a picture by 
the Cav. Bassano! and another by 
the School of Titian. The collegial 
Hall contains Europa, by Paolo 
Veronese! and two pictures by 
Tintoretto. The Cabinet con¬ 
tains a Fresco on its Ceiling, by 
Paolo Veronese; together with 
easel-pictures ; one being by the 
same master, and others by Tin¬ 
toretto. 

The Accademia delle belle Arti 
contains several fine pictures ; 

Missal adorned with Miniatures, by Giulio 
Clovio. 


303 


VENICE. 


Ch. XII.] 

among which are, the Assumption, 
by Titian, originally placed in the 
Church where he lies buried!!— 
the same subject by Palma Vec- 
chio—the resurrection of Lazarus, 
by Bassano ! — the Marriage of 
Cana, by Paduanino—Adam and 
Eve, by Tintoretto — the Holy 
Family, by Paolo Veronese—and 
the Miracle of S. Mark, by Tin¬ 
toretto. 

The Chiesa de' Gesuiti, (a 
handsome edifice, eleg'antly in- 
crusted with Mosaics of verde 
antique, $-c., resembling 1 in their 
effect green damask hangings,) 
contains a picture of the martyr¬ 
dom of S. Lorenzo, by Titian; 
and, in the Sacristy, the Presen¬ 
tation, by Tintoretto. 

The Chiesa dei Carmilitani is 
lined with precious marbles, and 
very magnificent. 

The Chiesa del Carmine con¬ 
tains the best Organ at Venice ,* 
and a picture of the Presentation, 
by Tintoretto. 

The Chiesa di S. Giovanni e 
S. Paolo contains a painting by 
Titian ; another by Perugino; a 
beautiful window of painted glass ; 
and, in a large Chapel adjoining 
the Church, some fine Alti-rilievi. 

The Chiesa di S. Giorgio 
Maggiore was built by Palladio, 
in a style of grand simplicity. 

II Redcntore was likewise built 
by Palladio ; and is, in point of 
architecture, a beautiful Church. 

The Chiesa di S. Maria della 
Salute contains the Descent of 
the Holy Ghost, painted by Titian 
when he was sixty-four ; two pic¬ 
tures by Luca Giordano; and one, 
by Antonio Treva, which was 
buried eighteen years, without 
being materially injured. 

Th e Pala zzo-Pisa ni-Moreta 
contains a picture of Alexander 
with the family of Darius, by 


Paolo Veronese; a work which 
seems composed in defiance to 
classical knowledge and good 
taste ; but, nevertheless, so har¬ 
monious is the colouring, and so 
beautiful the painting, that few 
persons can contemplate this pic¬ 
ture without forgetting its faults, 
and dwelling only on its excel¬ 
lencies. 

The Court of the Palazzo- 
Grimani contains a colossal statue 
of Marcus Agrippa ; which w r as 
originally placed in the vestibule 
of the Pantheon at Rome. This 
statue is Greek workmanship, and 
much admired. 

The Palazzo- Barberigo, in 
which Titian died, contains a pic¬ 
ture of the Saviour, by that great 
artist—the Holy Family, by Tin¬ 
toretto—the portrait of a Vene¬ 
tian Senator, by Titian — the 
Magdalene, likewise by Titian!— 
Venus—Paul in.—and S. Sebas- 
tiano, all by Titian ; who left the 
last unfinished, in consequence of 
his death—Susanna and the El¬ 
ders, by Tintoretto—and the Pro¬ 
digal Son, by Leandro Bassano. 

The Scuola di S. Rocco con¬ 
tains, on the ground floor, a pic¬ 
ture of the Annunciation, and 
other Works, by Tintoretto; who 
painted in this School for thirty 
years: and in a room above stairs 
is a very large and fine picture of 
the Crucifixion, likewise by Tin¬ 
toretto. 

The Palazzo-Manfrini con¬ 
tains a splendid collection of pic¬ 
tures ; which may be seen by 
Travellers every Monday and 
Thursday, from ten in the morn¬ 
ing till four. 

The Arsenal , which occupies 
an Island nearly three miles in 
circumference, is so well defended 
by lofty walls, turrets, fyc., as to 
resemble a fortress. Its principal 


304 


VENICE. 


entrance is adorned, on the out¬ 
side, with the winded Lion of 
Venice ; a colossal Lion in white 
marble, taken from the Piraeus at 
Athens! another Lion, taken 
from Athens; a Lioness, taken 
from Corinth; and another, having’ 
the word “ Attica," marked upon 
it. The object best worth notice, 
within the walls, is the ancient 
Armoury. 

The Rialto, the Piazza di S. 
Marco, and the Street and Garden 
made by Napoleon, (a magnificent 
work,) are the only Promenades 
at Venice. This city contains 
several Theatres ; the largest of 
which is the Fenice: it likewise 
contains good Hotels; namely, 
La Gran-Bretagna — II Lione 
hianco—miidL' Albergo d' Europa: 
the first, though the best inn at 
Venice, is, during winter and the 
early part of spring, cold and 
gloomy ; the last stands in a much 
warmer situation. 

The gold chains made in this city 
are particularly beautiful and the 
wax-candles Temarkably good. 

Persons who arc anxious to 
obtain spring-water, may be sup¬ 
plied daily from the terra firma. 

On the day of our departure 
we dined at the Gran-Bretagna ; 
then went in a gondola to Mestre, 
slept there; and the next morning 
early, set out for Conegliano, 
where we arrived in nine hours. 
About ten miles from Mestre lies 
Treviso. Beyond Treviso we 
passed the Piave; and after cross¬ 
ing the spot where one of Napo¬ 
leon’s great battles was fought, 
proceeded to Conegliano. The 
latter town is rather large, and 
La Post a is a good inn. 

(c) Our Voitiirier paid, for three guides 
and two oxen, one sequin. 

A fine bridge has been lately thrown 


[Ch. XII. 

Our next day's journey was to 
Pordenon, which we were seven 
hours and three quarters in reach¬ 
ing ; the road between this place 
and Conegliano being bad at all 
times, and after rain dangerous, 
as it lies close to the foot ot the 
Alps, from which mountains tor¬ 
rents of water frequently descend, 
and inundate the adjacent country. 
La Posta, at Pordenon, is a good 
inn: here we slept; and next 
morning proceeded in nine hours 
to S. Tommaso. Our road, as 
far as Spilimbergo, lay near the 
Alps, and through the bed of a 
torrent, disagreeable at all times, 
and unsafe after rain. From Spi¬ 
limbergo we descended into the 
Tagliamento, a tremendous tor¬ 
rent after rain, but in dry wea¬ 
ther fordable. It takes a full hour 
to travel through this water, with 
the assistance of oxen and guides 0 ; 
and though the weather, before 
we crossed, had long been dry, 
the different streams of which the 
Tagliamento is composed were 
wide and rapid, insomuch as to be 
very disagreeable. Soon after 
fording this torrent, we passed a 
town called S. Agnello, a little 
beyond which is the village of S. 
Tommaso. The road on this side 
the Tagliamento is good ; the inn 
at S. Tommaso bad. 

Our next day's journey was to 
Ponteba, or Pontafel, whither we 
were twelve hours in going. We 
took the road by Osoppo, that be¬ 
ing deemed the best; though even 
that, as far as L’Ospedaletto, is 
rough and dangerous, especially 
for the first ten miles. At L’Os¬ 
pedaletto, we entered a defile of 
the Alps, which leads to Venzone, 

over the Tagliamento; but is not, I believe, 
yet completely finished. 


CARINTHIA. 


305 


Ch. XII.] 

a pretty town, embosomed in these 
mountains ; and hence to Resiuta 
we found the road, which lies pa¬ 
rallel with the bed of the Taglia- 
inento, excellent, the views sub¬ 
lime, and the Alpine plants, which 
enamel the rocks, particularly 
beautiful. The inn at Resiuta is 
clean and comfortable; but the 
water here, as in most parts of 
the Alps, is bad ; and many inha¬ 
bitants of this country, especially 
women, are afflicted with immense 
goitrous swellings. At Resiuta 
we began to pass bridges made of 
wood, and covered at the top ; 
there are five or six of them in 
this part of the Alps ; and in Ger¬ 
many, likewise, all the bridges 
are made of wood, though not all 
covered at the top. From Resiuta, 
which is somewhat above halfway 
to Ponteba, the road lies through 
defiles of the Alps, near the bed 
of the Tagliamcnto, and is good, 
though too narrow; the views are 
sublime. 

Ponteba, the frontier town of 
Carinthia, is a miserable-looking 
place; and here our luggage under¬ 
went so rigorous an examination in 
the open street, before we were suf¬ 
fered to drive to the inn, that it 
required Argus’s eyes not to be 
plundered of every thing valuable 
our trunks contained, and Hercu¬ 
lean strength to unpack and re¬ 
pack, after the fatigue of a twelve 
hours’ journey: such, indeed, is 
the inconvenience Travellers must 
necessarily be exposed to at this 
custom-house, that I would advise 
nobody to pass Ponteba who can 
possibly go another way ; it being 
the great object of the custom¬ 
house officers to thieve ; for which 

(d) Yonr silks, <&c.,are plumbed; you are 
asked, what road you purpose-taking 1 and 
you then receive an order for the money 


purpose, they endeavour to throw 
small parcels on the ground, under 
the carriages, and even examine 
coach-seats, writing-boxes, and 
letters. They seize gold and sil¬ 
ver lace, snuff, and tobacco ; and 
for unmade silks, gauzes, fyc., 
they oblige you to deposit double 
the worth, to be paid back, how¬ 
ever, when you quit the Imperial 
territories^ They accept no fees; 
and are slower in their operations 
than it is possible to conceive. 

After sleeping at Ponteba, where 
the inn is a bad one, we proceeded 
in ten hours and a quarter to 
Villach, through a wide defile of 
the Alps, and found the road good, 
and the country beautiful, every 
mountain being clothed to its 
summit with noble fir-trees. The 
German villages, however, at the 
foot of the mountains, in some 
measure spoil the beauty of the 
scene, as nothing can be more un¬ 
couth than the wooden buildings 
which compose them, except the 
fences, which are, if possible, still 
worse. The houses are roofed 
with wood ; and the consequence 
is, that these awkward edifices are 
continually burnt to the ground. 
The Germans seldom have awash- 
hand basin in any bed-room of 
their country inns ; and even at 
Villach, a large town, we could 
not find one. The inn we slept 
at, however, (its sign, The Crown) 
is clean and good ; though tall 
people cannot sleep comfortably, 
either here or in any part of Ger¬ 
many ; the beds, which are very 
narrow, being placed in wooden 
frames, or boxes, so short, that 
any person who happens to be 
above five feet high must abso- 

you have deposited to be returned at the 
custom-house on the coniines. 


X 


306 


UPPER-AUSTRIA. 


[Cli. XII. 


lutely sit up all night, supported 
by pillows ; and this is, in fact, 
the way in which the Germans 
sleep. 

With respect to provisions, we 
found no cause for complaint; 
meat, bread, and wine, (some¬ 
what like Hock) beer, soup, and 
bouillie, sonr-crout, stewed prunes, 
coffee, and milk, being excellent ; 
and water, generally speaking, 
good. The usual dinner-hour is 
twelve o’clock; at which time Tra¬ 
vellers may always find something 
to eat at the inns, German cook¬ 
ery being simple and wholesome. 
One requisite to a comfortable 
meal it is, however, very difficult 
to obtain, namely, clean table- 
linen: we, indeed, were obliged 
to purchase table-cloths and nap¬ 
kins on our journey ; so much 
were we disgusted by the dirty 
linen which was produced every 
where, except in the very large 
towns. 

Women, in this country, seem 
to work harder than men ; and at 
public-houses female servants not 
only cook the dinner, and wait at 
table, but even feed the horses. 
The peasantry have fine complex¬ 
ions, with a great appearance of 
health and strength, but their 
countenances seldom express good- 
humour, or quickness of appre¬ 
hension ; they dress neatly, and 
wear high shoes, like those of our 
English Farmers. The women 
are said to be depraved in their 
morals. 

Most of the country towns 
through which we passed consist 
of straight streets, with a large 
square in their centre, adorned by 
an obelisk, statues of the Madon¬ 
na, our Saviour, $c. The Ger¬ 
man horses are remarkably strong 
and handsome ; and the whole 
country, from Ponteba to Vienna, 


wears the face of wealth, more, 
perhaps, than any other part of 
Europe. 

The passing through this part 
of Germany seems like living some 
hundred years ago in England ; 
as the dresses, customs, and man¬ 
ners, of the people precisely re¬ 
semble those of our ancestors. 
Many of their implements of hus¬ 
bandry, also, appear similar to 
our’s ; and their kitchens are fur¬ 
nished with plates, dishes, basins 
and ewers of pewter, and wooden 
trenchers, exactly like those which 
may still be seen among us, in 
old farm-houses. The herbs and 
shrubs also resemble those of 
England, except that barberry- 
bushes are substituted for black¬ 
berries ; while the firs grow so 
luxuriantly, that young plants, a 
few inches high, literally carpet 
the woods. 

The road from L’Ospedalletto 
to Villacli possesses one great ad¬ 
vantage, that of being perhaps 
the only approach to Italy which 
does not lie over the summits of 
the Alps. It is, indeed, remark¬ 
able, that although we were sur¬ 
rounded by these ‘ cloud-clapt ’ 
mountains the whole of the way, 
we seldom, if ever, descended a hill 
steep enough to render a drag- 
chain necessary; neither did we 
perceive any fault in the road, its 
narrowness excepted. 

From Villacli we proceeded to 
Klagenfurt, in eight hours and 
a half, through a good road, 
and a finely cultivated and beau¬ 
tiful country, adorned with a 
noble sheet of water, called the 
Lake of Fel. The vallies are va¬ 
riegated with small villages and 
rustic churches, like those of Eng¬ 
land ; the near mountains clothed 
to their summits with firs and 
other trees, while behind them 


Ch. XII.] 

rise Alps covered with eternal 
snow. 

Klagenfurt, is a large and 
strongly-fortified city ; the houses 
are tolerably neat, and the spires 
of the churches built in the Turk¬ 
ish style, and covered with white 
metal. We slept at The Golden 
Star, a tolerable inn, and next 
day proceeded, in nine hours 
and a half, to Friesach, through 
an excellent road, and a bold, 
finely wooded, and richly cultivated 
country. In the way to Friesach 
lies S. Veit, a handsome town. 
We found The Wolf at Friesach 
a good inn ; and after sleeping* 
there, drove in ten hours and a 
quarter to Judenburg, stopping, 
however, at Neumark, which is 
about midway, to dine. We found 
the road to Neumark smooth, and 
the country well cultivated, though 
less beautiful than before ; but as 
we approached Judenburg it be¬ 
came picturesque and finely wood¬ 
ed. We slept at The Golden Cross 
and Scythe , a clean good inn, and 
went next day, in nine hours and 
a quarter, to Leobcn. Our road 
continued good, winding near a 
meandering stream called the 
Muhr, and the views were beautiful. 
Travellers usually dine about mid¬ 
way at Khraubath. The Impe¬ 
rial Eagle at Lcobcn is a com¬ 
fortable inn, and the town is 
rather handsome, many of the 
houses being built with stone or 
brick. 

Our next day’s journey was 
through Bruck to Merzhofen, 
which we reached in five hours 
and three quarters, and therefore 
might easily have gone further ; 
but hearing that the beds at the 
next Post were engaged, and find- 

( e ) From Mbrzuscblag we took extra 
horses to the summit of this mountain, 


307 

ing the inn at Merzhofen toler¬ 
able, we slept there, and then 
proceeded, in nine hours and a 
half, to Schottwien, passing 
through a good road to Morzusch- 
lag, where we dined, and then as¬ 
cended a very lofty mountain, at 
the foot of which lies Scottwien e . 
The ascent is good, and takes up 
about one hour ; the descent em¬ 
ploys more than double that time, 
and is sharp and dangerous, the 
road being narrow and ill-kept, 
insomuch that waggons ascend on 
the Schottwien side with sixteen 
and sometimes twenty horses. We 
found the country from Merzhofen 
to Schottwien wild, and finely 
wooded ; and previous to our ar¬ 
rival at Morzuschlag we passed the 
town of Krieglach. 

The Post House at Schottwien 
is a tolerable inn. 

Our next day’s journey was to 
Traskirken, whither the drive took 
up ten hours and a quarter. After 
quitting Schottwien we entered an 
extensive plain highly cultivated, 
and passed through Neukirken 
and Neustadt, reaching the latter 
in about six hours and a half. 
Neukirken is a large town, and 
contains good inns. Neustadt also 
is large, contains good inns, and 
is fortified. We dined here, and 
afterward proceeded to Traskir¬ 
ken, through a flat and good 
road, exhibiting, to the right, a 
prospect of Hungary and the 
Danube. 

We slept at Traskirken, (which 
though it may be called a large 
town, does not possess comfortable 
inns ;) and then drove, next morn¬ 
ing, in four hours and a half, to 
Vienna, through a flat country, 
abounding with game, and thickly 

which Travellers should not descend after it 
becomes dark. 

x a 


UPPER AUSTRIA. 


SOS 


VIENNA. 


spotted with villages, but not well 
cultivated. 

On entering Vienna we were 
taken to the custom-house, where 
the officers, though apt to be 
troublesome to foreigners, were 
civil to us. The hotels in this 
city are not so good as might rea¬ 
sonably be expected in the capital 
of a greatempire,and therefore the 
most comfortable mode of living is 
to take a private apartment, and 
employ a Trait ear. 

Vienna, properly so called, and 
built at the confluence of the Da¬ 
nube and the Wien, is small, but 
strongly fortified; its faubourgs, 
however, are immense, and con¬ 
tain finer buildings than the 
town itself ; in which the palaces 
are few, and not spacious ; and 
the want of those splendid streets 
and squares which usually em¬ 
bellish the capital of a great 
empire, prevents it from appear¬ 
ing, to foreign eyes, a handsome 
city. 

Among the objects best worth 
notice are, the Imperial Resi¬ 
dence, the great Chapel belong¬ 
ing to which is adorned with two 
altar-pieces, by Titian— the Ca¬ 
thedral of S. Stephen, a fine 
Gothic structure, containing an 
Ecce Homo, attributed to Correg¬ 
gio, and a crucifix, by Donner; 
the Belfry of this church, and its 
Sacristy—the Church dedicated 
to S’ Peter—the Front of the 
Church of S. Michael, adorned 
with Statues by L. Mattielli— the 
Church of the Augustines, embel¬ 
lished with an altar-piece by Mal- 
bertscli — the Capuchin Church, 
which contains the Burial-place of 
the House of Austria— the Church 
of S. Charles, on the Bennwegg ; 
and the Church of S. Rupert, 
which is the most ancient in Vi¬ 


[Ch. XII. 

enna.— The Imperial Arsenal — 
the buildings of the University, 
and the Imperial Chancery—the 
Panic—the Mint, once the Palace 
of Prince Eugene— the Chancery 
of Bohemia and Austria—the 
Hotel de Ville—the Fountain, by 
Donner, which adorns the Neu- 
Markt — the Imperial Library, 
said to contain 300,000 printed 
volumes, and 12,000 manuscripts, 
and always open to the public 
from eight in the morning till 
twelve, during summer ; and from 
nine to twelve, during winter, 
Sundays and other holidays ex¬ 
cepted. This Library is enriched 
with an ancient Tomb, brought 
from the vicinity of Ephesus; 
an Etruscan Vase, celebrated by 
Winckelmann; and the famous Se- 
natus Consultant, mentioned by 
Livy. The Imperial Private Li¬ 
brary—the Jewels of the Crown 
—the Imperial Cabinet of Me¬ 
dals, which contains a celebrated 
Cameo of Alexander, by Pvrgo- 
teles ; and the Imperial Cabinet 
of Natural History, open every 
Tuesday morning. 

The Imperial Gallery of Paint¬ 
ings at the Belvedere, which con¬ 
tains a large work, by Titian, 
finely executed, though not equal 
to those at Venice—charming pic¬ 
tures by Rembrandt, especially a 
portrait of himself, which, for 
bravura and truth, may be deno¬ 
minated his chef-d'ceuvre /—a fine 
picture by Rubens, representing 
an Emperor receiving pardon for 
some offence against the Holy 
See—Jupiter and lo, by Correg¬ 
gio ! !—Ganymedes, by the same 
master !! The former of these 
last-named works has been re¬ 
touched in the back-ground, but 
is, exclusive of this circumstance, 
pure from the pencil of Correggio 


300 


Ch. XII.] VIENNA. 


—two heads, by Denner; and 
some excellent flower-pieces, by 
\ an Huysum. These pictures are 
on the ground-floor. The rooms 
abovestairs likewise contain paint¬ 
ing's highly worth notice, from be¬ 
ing the works of the very earliest 
masters ot the Flemish and Ger¬ 
man schools. They are in excel¬ 
lent preservation, possess great 
merit, and form a most interest¬ 
ing history of the progress of the 
Art. One ot these pictures, 
an oil-painting, is reputed to 
have been executed during the 
year 1292. 

The Belvedere is open to the 
public on Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays. Many of the pic¬ 
tures once belonged to our unfor¬ 
tunate King, Charles I. It is usual 
to give two florins for seeing the 
whole collection. 

The Gallery of Paintings in 
the Lichtenstein Palace contains 
the story of Decius in seven large 
pictures, by Rubens—S.Sebastia- 
no, by Vandyck—two portraits, by 
Holbein — the Guitar-Player, by 
M. A. Carravaggio—the sacrifice 
of Iphigenia, by N. Poussin—a 
Countryman eating, by Recca- 
fumi—a head, by Seybold, being 
his own portrait—a Madonna and 
Child, by Teniers—another, by 
Hanneman—flower-pieces, by Van 
Huysum, Trechsler, S>c. 

One florin satisfies the Custode 
above-stairs ; and two pauls are 
sufficient for the Porter below. 
This Gallery may be seen at all 
times ; but is much inferior to 
that at the Belvedere. 

The Porcelain - manufacture 
merits notice. 

The Prater is one of the most 
magnificent Promenades in Eu¬ 
rope. The usual time of going is 
after dinner. Coffee, excellent 


milk, beer, bread, $•<?., may be pro¬ 
cured here. 

Lan-Gartcn is a public place, 
near the Prater, somewhat like 
Vauxhall. Here you may dine 
(under the shade of fine horse- 
chestnut-trees,) in the garden ; or 
in a spacious room, with the rest 
of the company, every party, how¬ 
ever, having its separate table : it 
is possible, likewise to get a pri¬ 
vate room. A band of music, 
which plays during dinner, re¬ 
ceives from each party a paid or 
two. Dinner (wine excepted) costs 
one florin per head, and is excel¬ 
lently well served. Here are bil¬ 
liard-tables, a dancing-room, cof¬ 
fee-room, $-c. The waiters speak 
French and Italian. 

Schoenbrunn is another public 
garden, well worth notice, where 
a good dinner may be had for the 
above-named price. 

These two gardens are open for 
dinner-company from the first of 
May to the last of September; 
and during the rest of the year 
the same Traiteur serves, for the 
same price, at Vienna, in his 
own house, where Travellers may 
board. 

There are two remarkably good 
coffee-houses in this city, the 
Cafe de Kramer, and the Cafe 
de Milan. 

Water-drinkers would do well, 
while resident here, to supply 
themselves either at the Ca¬ 
puchin-Convent, in the Place- 
Neuve; or at the Palace of Prince 
Schwarzenberg. 

The national dish in Germany 
is small chickens fried very dry, 
being first cut into pieces, as for 
a fricassee; and this dish is par¬ 
ticularly well served by TraU 
tears . 

There are two Theatres in the 


310 


VIENNA—MORAVIA. 


city of Vienna, and three in the 
suburbs ; none of them large ; 
but the orchestra at the opera- 
house is excellent, and the stage- 
decorations are good. It is diffi¬ 
cult, at this theatre, for foreign¬ 
ers to obtain boxes. Ladies, how¬ 
ever, may sit in the parterre, 
sending beforehand for seats. 
There are frequent and beautiful 
exhibitions of fire-works at Vi¬ 
enna. This city, with its faux- 
bourgs, is said to contain two 
hundred and seventy thousand in¬ 
habitants. 

The distance from Florence hi¬ 
ther is about nine hundred Tus¬ 
can miles ; and the expense of 
barriers and turnpikes for one 
carriage from five to six Tuscan 
sequins f . 

Our first day’s journey from 
Vienna was to Stockeran, a drive 
of five hours and a half, through 
a good but sandy road. On quit¬ 
ting Vienna, we had a beautiful 
view of the Danube, together 
with several royal parks and 
gardens, which, all united, form 
an enchanting scene. The Da¬ 
nube is immensely wide, and at 
the same time so translucent 
as to be a great embellisher of 
every country through which it 
flows. The road to Stockeran 
traverses a vast plain, richly cul¬ 
tivated, and adorned with seve¬ 
ral towns. After sleeping at a 
comfortable inn, (the sign, Our 
Saviour and the woman of Sa¬ 
maria,) we proceeded in two 
hours and a half to MaUehern ; 
where, in consequence of one of 
our party being taken ill, we 

(f) Better carriages are built at Vienna 
than in any other city of the continent; 
ami that sort, known by the name of Jiu- 
tardc, is peculiarly safe and convenient for 
travelling. The usual price, for one of 
these carriages, vachc, trunks, and every 


[Ch. XII. 

were compelled to pass the night 
at a bad inn. The road thither 
is flat and good, but sandy; the 
country richly cultivated, and 
much like the south of France. 

From Mallebcrn we drove in 
six hours to Jezelsdorf, through 
a flat and good road, passing a 
Chateau belonging to the Empe¬ 
ror, and a handsome town called 
Ilollabrunn s. The towns on this 
side Vienna are chiefly built ot 
stone andbriek; the villages con¬ 
sist of neat thatched cottages. 
The country is a rich and exten¬ 
sive plain, planted, near Jezels¬ 
dorf, with a large number of 
vines. The water in the last- 
named town is bad. After dining 
here, we proceeded in three hours 
and a half to Znaim, through a 
good road h , and an immense and 
richly-cultivated plain, abounding 
with corn and vineyards. 

Znaim, the first town of Mo¬ 
ravia, is large, handsome, and 
built somewhat like an Italian 
city. It contains several inns. 
We slept at the Three Crowns, 
and found nothing to complain of, 
except bad water. Next day, we 
drove in five hours and a quar¬ 
ter to Schinta through a very 
rough road, and an immense plain 
abounding with corn. The inn 
at Schinta is almost too bad 
even to dine at: we were, how¬ 
ever, obliged to stop for a couple 
of hours, to rest the mules ; after 
which we proceeded in three hours 
and a half to Schelletan, through 
a very rough road, and an open 
swampy country, rich in corn and 
woods of fir. Our inn here was 

other requisite inclusive, is from five to six 
bundled imperial florins. 

(g) Hollabrunn contains good inns. 

(/i) We had extra-horses to ascend the 
hill beyond Jezelsdorf. 


311 


MORAVIA AND BOHEMIA. 


Ch. XII.] 

the Post-House, which we found 
tolerably good. Next day we 
drove in six hours to Iglau, 
through a good road, and an open 
corn-country, passing Stannern 
and other small villages on our 
way. Iglau, the last city of Mo¬ 
ravia, is handsomely built in the 
Italian style ; and the outsides of 
some of the houses are embel¬ 
lished with curious old paintings. 
Idle square contains good inns. 
The spires of the churches in this 
country, like those of Carinthia, 
are chiefly covered with white 
metal. The dress of the female 
peasants is pretty; but, what 
looks odd to foreign eyes, the 
women wear short petticoats and 
drawers, while the men’s coats 
reach to their shoes. Fur seems 
much worn by both sexes. After 
dining at Iglau, we proceeded in 
two hours and a half to Stecken , 
through a good road, and a 
country richly cultivated with 
corn, and variegated with woods. 
The inn at Stecken is bad, we 
were, however, obliged to sleep 
there ; though better accommo¬ 
dations may be obtained at 
Deutschbrodt, a drive of above 
two hours and a quarter further. 
Stecken is the first post in Bo¬ 
hemia. 

Our next day’s journey was to 
Czaslau, a drive of nine hours and 
three quarters ; we dined, how¬ 
ever, by the way, at Hauvre, 
where the inn is tolerable. Our 
road to Czaslau, (the first part 
excepted, which traverses a hill 
wag rough ; the country abounds 
in corn and woods of fir.—Czas¬ 
lau is a handsome town, with a 
large square and obelisk in its 
centre; the houses are chiefly 
white and tiled at the top ; the or¬ 


naments of the belfries here, and 
in Moravia, consist of five or six 
spires beside a cupola, all covered 
with white metal. We slept at 
the Post-House, a tolerably good 
inn, where the master was re¬ 
markably civil and honest ; for we 
left, at this inn, a pair of pistols, 
which were sent after us. 

Our next day’s journey was to 
Planian, a drive of six hours and 
a quarter, through a tolerable 
road, and a vast plain of corn. 
On our way we went near Mollin, 
a large town, and through Collin, 
which also seems large. There 
are two tolerable inns at Planian, 
where we slept, in consequence of 
illness: but ought to have pro¬ 
ceeded to Boemischbrod, a drive 
of two hours and a half further. 
Next day, however, we reached 
P> ■ague, after travelling ten hours 
in a good road, through a vast plain, 
richly cultivated, and interspersed 
with towns and villages, but not 
pretty. We descended almost con¬ 
stantly for many miles before we 
entered Prague. 

This is one of the handsomest 
cities in Europe, built in the 
Italian style, and famous for its 
bridge ; it size, likewise, is con¬ 
siderable, and its fortifications 
are strong. The inhabitants, 
however, bear no proportion to 
the capaciousness of the town, 
as they do not, according to 
the best computations, amount 
to ninety thousand. The Uni¬ 
versity of Prague has long been 
celebrated. The Cathedral, a 
finely situated Gothic structure, 
and the Church of the Holy 
Cross, are said to be worth no¬ 
tice, but unfortunately we had 
not time to examine them. The 
beautiful Bridge of Prague is 


(i) We ascended this hill with extra-horses. 


312 


BOHEMIA. 


thrown over the Moldau, which 
runs into the Elbe. 

Here are several inns ; we went 
to that called The Prince 
Prussia. The Lion is much re¬ 
commended. 

The Sclavonian language, (a 
dialect of the German) is spoken 
in Moravia and Bohemia. 

From Prague, we drove in four 
hours and a half to Schlan, through 
a good road, generally up hill, and 
over a vast plain, tolerably culti¬ 
vated with corn and hops. We 
dined at Schlan, (where, though 
the town is not small, the inn is 
indilfereut;) and thence proceed¬ 
ed, in five hours, to Budin, through 
a very bad road, the soil being 
loose and boggy: the country, 
however, is rich in corn and game. 
Budin contains two inns, neither 
of which can be called good. Next 
day we drove, in five hours, to Lo- 
bositz, through a boggy, and, 
(after rain,) an extremely dan¬ 
gerous road. To ascend the hill out 
of Budin, it is requisite that every 
carriage should have extra horses ; 
indeed, for the whole post, extra¬ 
horses are useful; and heavy car¬ 
riages should be held up by men. 
Immediately after quitting Budin, 
we crossed the Elbe, and generally 
kept it in sight afterward till our 
arrival at Dresden. Lobositz con¬ 
tains two tolerable inns; the Post- 
House, and the Free-Masons ’ 
Arms(Ctd\edL'Austeria Grande;) 
we slept at the latter, not being 
able to obtain extra-horses in or¬ 
der to proceed. Next morning we 
drove, in five hours and a half, to 
Aussig k , through a road, bad at 
all times, and excessively danger¬ 
ous after rain ; being rocky, in 
some places, to a degree that risks 
breaking heavy carriages to pieces, 


[Ch. XII. 

and so boggy in others, that the 
lightest vehicle can scarcely escape 
overturning, unless held up by 
men. And, to increase the dan¬ 
ger of this road, it lies dose to the 
Elbe, on the brink of a precipice. 

Travellers, whose carriages are 
heavy, should put their luggage 
into a waggon, and themselves 
either upon horses or into a light 
calash, between Lobositz and 
Aussig; and Invalids ought not 
to attempt going any way but on 
horseback, the jolts being so vio¬ 
lent that it requires considerable 
bodily strength to bear them ; as 
a proof of which, two persons who 
went in carriages, at the same 
time with us, broke blood-vessels; 
while others were overturned, and 
nearly killed with fatigue. It 
seems extraordinary that the Em¬ 
peror does not have this road 
mended, as it might be done in a 
short time, and at a small expense, 
especially on the banks of the 
Elbe, where the soil is chiefly a 
rock. He has, however, made the 
following road from Prague to 
Dresden, which is reckoned better 
than that we took: 

Posts 


From Schlan to Ttinitz .1 

Postelberg . l 

Top lit z . 2 

Petersivald . 

Zehist . l 

Dresden. 1 


Perhaps it might be possible to 
go down the Elbe from Budin to 
Dresden; from Aussig, it cer¬ 
tainly would; though, in either 
case, Travellers ought to send 
forward some hours before-hand, 
in order to have a proper boat 
provided. 

The inn at Aussig is small, but 
clean ; and the country from Lo¬ 
bositz thither very romantic. Af¬ 
ter dining at Aussig, we set out 


(Ar) Aussig is famous for its strong sweet wine, called Postkaltzky. 








DRESDEN. 


313 


Ch. XII.] 


for Peterswald, which we were 
seven hours in reaching, as the 
road is bad, even tobe dangerous; 
it traverses a high mountain, to 
ascend which either oxen, or ex¬ 
tra-horses, are requisite. 

Peterswald is the last town in 
the Imperial dominions, and does 
not contain one good inn. But a 
quarter of a mile out of the town, 
at a hamlet called lledorf, or Mi¬ 
le s dor f, there is a clean, comfort¬ 
able public-house, which stands 
close to the high-road, on the 
right, the sign being the Free - 
Masons' Arms. At this house 
we slept; and next morning, drove 
in eight hours to Dresden. On 
quitting Hilesdorf, we ascended a 
steep hill 1 , and then passed a wood 
of fir; after which, we descended 
almost constantly through a rich 
corn-country, till our arrival at 
Dresden. We found the road 
sometimes rough, but, generally 
speaking, good ; the villages neat, 
the peasantry clean ; and, after 
leaving Peterswald, we did not see 
one beggar. 

There is a comfortable looking 
inn not far from Hilesdorf, and 
another at Pirna, about ten Eng¬ 
lish miles from Dresden. 

The dress of the Saxon pea¬ 
sants resembles that worn in Eng¬ 
land some centuries ago; and when 
we spoke English to these people, 
they frequently understood us. 

The approach to Dresden an¬ 
nounces the richness of Saxony ; 
and at the gate of the city we 
found a custom-house officer, who 
attended us to our inn ; where, on 
being presented with a couple of 
florins, he retired without examin¬ 
ing our luggage. 

Dresden, the capital of Saxony, 
is supposed to contain about 50,000 


inhabitants; though some authors 
rate the population at double that 
number. 

The architecture of Dresden is 
simple, light, and elegant; the 
streets are straight, wide, and 
clean ; the squares spacious ; the 
palaces, churches, and other pub¬ 
lic edifices, magnificent; and the 
bridge thrown over the Elbe, which 
divides the old from the new 
buildings, is one of the finest in 
Europe. 

Here are, as it were, three cities; 
the old town, the new town, and 
Frederickstadt. The fortifications 
are strong ; the environs rich and 
beautiful; and the Elbe, though 
not clear, is broad and handsome. 
Lutheranism is the established re¬ 
ligion of the country; but the 
Calvinists have public meeting¬ 
houses, and the Sovereign has one 
Romish church ; he and his family 
being Roman Catholics. 

The inhabitants of Dresden 
are, generally speaking, well con¬ 
ditioned, and very civil to Foreign¬ 
ers ; who live here with comfort, 
at a moderate expense: and Paint¬ 
ers may study with great advantage 
at Dresden; not only on account 
of the precious works of art which 
are submitted to public view, but 
likewise because there reigns 
throughout this town a tranquil¬ 
lity peculiarly favourable to the 
Studious. 

Here are several good inns ; 
and private lodgings also may be 
procured without difficulty. 

The objects best worth a Tra¬ 
veller's notice are —The royal 
Romish Church, which contains 
a celebrated organ, by Silber- 
mann ; and a fine picture of the 
Ascension, by Mengs—(the Bel¬ 
fry of this church is 303 feet in 


(l) We were drawn up this hill by the aid of oxen. 


314 


DRESDEN. 


height )—The Picture Gallery — 
The Treasury, or Jewel-Office — 
The Gallery of Antiques—The 
royal Libraries —and The Col¬ 
lection of Dresden China . The 
Cabinet of Natural History, and 
The antique Armoury , should 
likewise be visited, if Travellers 
have time to spare. 

In order to gain admittance to 
the Picture Gallery, the Treasury, 
the Gallery of Antiques, and the 
Royal Libraries, it is requisite to 
send, over night, your name, coun¬ 
try, and quality, to the respective 
Directors ; together with the num¬ 
ber of persons you intend to bring, 
and the hour at which you mean 
to come. You may either go from 
nine till half-past ten in the morn¬ 
ing, or from half-past ten till 
twelve; from two till half-past 
three in the afternoon, or from 
half-past three till five. To the 
Director of the Picture-Gallery 
each party pays from four florins 
to one ducat, and to the Sweeper 
half a florin; which sum once 
given, you are at liberty to go 
without expense afterward. To 
the Master of the Jewel-Office 
every party pays four florins, and 
to each of his servants half a flo¬ 
rin ; which sum once given, you 
are at liberty to go free of expense 
afterward. The Custode who 
shows the Collection of Dresden 
China expects a ducat, provided 
the party he attends be large. 

Picture Gallery. This immense 
collection, certainly the finest of 
its kind in Europe, contains chefs- 
d'oeuvres , excellently well pre¬ 
served, of the best masters: so 
that it is scarcely possible for any 
person to study the Dresden Gal¬ 
lery, without becoming a real Con¬ 
noisseur. 

Here are, in the Flemish School, 


[Ch. XII. 

Adonis and Venus—a Satyr and a 
Faun—Neptune calming a tempest 
—Meleager presenting the Boar’s 
head to Atalanta—and S. Jerome 
meditating : all first-rate produc¬ 
tions, by Rubens. Several works 
by Netscher (particularly a man 
seated, and writing,) which show 
precisely how small pictures ought 
to be painted. Admirable works by 
Teniers, Ostade, Ruysdaal, Wou- 
vermans, Brughel, Berghem, and 
Paul Potter. The Annunciation—• 
and the judgment of Paris, both by 
Vander Werf—the Madonna with 
the Saviour in her arms, and a 
little naked Boy in the lower 
part of the picture, by Holbein 
—and portraits, of a Burgo¬ 
master and his Wife, by the same 
artist. 

The Italian School contains, 
the Madonna enthroned with the 
Saviour, by Corregio, in his first 
manner—the Madonna enthroned 
with the Saviour, S. George, -c., 
by the same great master—his 
Magdalene, a small recumbent fi¬ 
gure, said to be the most faultless 
picture ever painted—and the Na¬ 
tivity called Correggio's Night, 
and by many persons deemed the 
chef-d'oeuvre of colouring, though 
now injured by having been wash¬ 
ed—the Madonna, the Saviour, 
fyc., called Correggio's S. Sebas¬ 
tian—and a portrait, by Correggio, 
of his Physician—The Tribute 
Money, by Titian, deemed L one 
of his finest pictures—and the 
Madonna, the Saviour, Pope 
Sixtus V., Cherubim, fyc., attri¬ 
buted to Raphael. 

Other celebrated paintings in 
the blemish School are, Noah sa¬ 
crificing after having left the Ark, 
by N. Poussin—Luther and his 
wife, by J. Holbein — a Child 
borne away by an eagle ! (This 


DRESDEN. 


315 


Ch. XII.] 

picture, the work of Rembrandt, 
seems improperly called the rape 
of Ganyinedes)—a portrait of Rem¬ 
brandt, by himself; and another 
of his Mother, weighing- gold, 
likewise by Rembrandt—portrait 
of Salvator Rosa, by himself—* 
Peasants dancing, by Teniers— 
portrait of Henry viii., of Eng¬ 
land, by J. Holbein—a Girl with 
a lighted candle gathering grapes, 
by Gerard Dow!—a head of N. 
Poussin, by himself—Moses found 
in the Nile, by Poussin—Rem¬ 
brandt’s daughter, by Rembrandt 
—a small Madonna and Child, by 
Albert Durer—Fruit and Flowers, 
by A. Minjon — a Landscape, 
by Berghem, and a Landscape 
with Cattle, by Ruysdaal —our 
Saviour raising the Dead, with 
other small but highly finished 
pictures, by Dieterich—a Land¬ 
scape, with Lions, by Rubens ! 
—a Landscape, with a forest and 
a hunted stag, by Ruysdaal and 
Vander Velde ! — Manoah and 
his wife sacrificing, and the Angel 
ascending to heaven, by Rem¬ 
brandt—the Repose in Egypt, by 
Ferdinand Bol! — the feast of 
Ahasuerus, by Rembrandt—a Girl 
standing at an open window and 
reading a letter, school of Rem¬ 
brandt—Narcissus and Nymphs,by 
N. Poussin—the Martyrdom of S. 
Erasmus, by ditto—a Landscape 
with Cattle, by Vander Velde—a 
Cock and Hen endeavouring to 
oppose an Eagle who has seized 
one of their chickens, by Honde- 
koeter ! — a Landscape with a 
Shepherd playing on his pipe, by 
Claude—a Landscape,by Berghem 
—a Battle by Wouvermans !—the 
Madonna and our Saviour, by 
Vandyck!—several exquisitely fi¬ 
nished Heads, by Denner and 
Seybold—a Philosopher reading, 
by Konink !—a Banker convers¬ 


ing with a Peasant who has 
brought him money, by Quintin- 
Matsys—a Forest, Dogs, and Fal¬ 
cons, by Vander Velde and Paul 
Potter — Joseph presenting his 
Father to Pharaoh, by Ferdinand 
Bol — a head of Seybold, by 
himself—the Madonna, the Sa¬ 
viour, and S. Anne, by J. Van 
Eyk, the reputed inventor of oil- 
colours—S. Jerome penitent, by 
Vandyck—a Tooth-Drawer, by 
G. Ilonthorst—Venus seated, and 
Cupid playing with a Dove, by 
Vander Werf—a Banker weighing 
gold and a Woman looking at him, 
by Quintin Matsys—Syrinx and 
Pan, by N. Poussin—Noah sacri¬ 
ficing after the Deluge, and a Bac¬ 
chanalian scene, both by Pous¬ 
sin—a Stable, by Wouvermans— 
and the idolatry of Solomon, by 
Poussin. 

Other celebrated paintings be¬ 
longing to the Italian School, are 
S. Cecilia, by Giulio Romano 
—a recumbent Magdalene, by P. 
Battoni—Parnassus, by Tintoret¬ 
to—a Concert, by the same mas¬ 
ter—the Resurrection of our Sa¬ 
viour, by Paolo Veronese — a 
Woman carried off by a Man, at 
whose feet lies another man 
wounded, by J. C. Procaccini—- 
the repose in Egypt, by Trevisani 
—Head of a man with a cap on, 
by Titian !—Adam and Eve driven 
from Paradise, by Albano!—Mars 
seated, by Benvenuto Garofolo— 
Samson combating the Philis¬ 
tines, by Giulio Romano—Hero- 
dias with the head of S. John, by 
Leonardo da Vinci—the Genius 
of Glory, by Annibale Caracei— 
the Repose in Egypt, by Lodovico 
Caracei—the Madonna and our 
Saviour, by Annibale Caracei—• 
the Woman detected in adultery, 
by Tintoretto—the same subject, 
by Bartolomeo Biscaino !—a re- 


316 


DRESDEN. 


[Ch. xi r. 


cumbent Venus, by Titian, and 
another by Guido — Peace, by 
Dosso Dossi—Justice, by ditto— 
the Saviour in the stable, with 
Angels adoring him, by Albano! 
•—the Saviour crowned with thorns 
and supported by an Angel, by An¬ 
nibale Caracci!—a Bacchanalian 
feast, by Garofolo— a young Bac¬ 
chus by Guido—the Assumption, 
by A. Caracci—S. George and the 
Dragon, by Raphael—an Ecce 
Homo, by Guido—Lot and his 
Daughters, by Guercino — the 
Angel and Tobias, by Titian— 
Titian’s Mistress, by himself— 
the Head of our Saviour, by A. 
Caracci—a Candle-Light piece, 
by R ubens!—a Holy Family,called 
the Madonna with the basin, by 
Giulio Romano—Loves dancing, 
and Venus above, in the clouds, 
by Albano—two pictures of Ga¬ 
latea, by ditto—the Fall of the 
Angels, by Tintoretto—the good 
Samaritan, by Paolo Veronese— 
a Madonna and Child, by Schidone 
—the portrait of Thomas Parr, 
when above an hundred years old, 
by Vandyck—and the Madonna 
and our Saviour in glory, by Ra- 
menghi called Bagnacavallo. 

Cabinet of Drawings in Pastel 
—Portrait of Raphael Mengs, by 
himself—of his Father, by the 
same—and of Cupid, by the same! 
—several other beautiful drawings, 
and some small paintings in ena¬ 
mel. This Gallery is warm. 

Treasury , or Jewel-Office. 
The most striking things here are 
—Second room —a ship of ivory, 
and a vase of the same, with bassi - 
rilievi representing a battle. 
Third room —a chimney-piece 
adorned with all the most valuable 
productions of Saxony, namety, 
china, diamonds, and other pre¬ 
cious stones, pearls, S^c. Fourth 
room —superb pieces of plate, fyc. 


Fifth room —(fitted up with pecu¬ 
liar eleg'ance) fine camel —a basso- 
rilicvo on the shell of a Nautilus— 
another large basso-rilievo repre¬ 
senting a youth travelling into 
foreign countries upon an unbri¬ 
dled horse; but, having Virtue 
for his guide, Vice flies before 
him. Sixth Room —three pieces 
of enamel, by Mengs—antique 
enamel—pearls representing men 
and women about one finger high, 
among which a Potter is much 
admired. Seventh room —a pyra¬ 
mid of precious stones, antique 
carnei , $c., in the centre of which 
is the head of Augustus n. ; and 
at the foot of the column are small 
enamelled figures, in the respective 
dresses of the several European 
nations. This pyramid is said to 
have cost 100,000crowns. Eighth 
room —an onyx, esteemed the 
largest in the known world—the 
Great Mogul seated on his throne, 
and celebrating his birth-day; a 
superb toy—an Egyptian temple, 
likewise a superb toy—the jewels 
of the crown ; being a dazzling 
collection of fine brilliants—a 
large and beautiful green dia¬ 
mond, said to be unique, with se¬ 
veral large red and yellow dia¬ 
monds. ' The rooms are paved 
with marble , and very cold. 

Cabinet of antique Sculpture. 
The most striking things here 
are — a young Bacchus eating 
grapes — Meleager—one of the 
sons ol Niobe, dead—an Etruscan 
statue of Minerva, the drapery of 
which is curious—a bassi-rilievo 
of Artimesia, in jasper, attributed 
to Lysippus—statues of two fe¬ 
male Fauns—zEsculapius and 
Venus, the head of the first par¬ 
ticularly fine—statues of Vestals, 
found in Herculaneum by the 
Prince d’Elbeuf, and by far the 
finest things in this collection ; the 


DRESDEN. 


317 


Cli. XU.] 

drapery being wonderfully exe¬ 
cuted ! !!—a fragment of a Gla¬ 
diator, or Wrestler, going to 
anoint himself, attributed to Phi¬ 
dias !—an Etruscan altar—a Gre¬ 
cian altar, with niches in it—a 
Sarcophagus, with a dog. Here 
are other valuable pieces of sculp¬ 
ture ; but, as most of them have 
been sadly mutilated and ill-re¬ 
stored, artists only can appreciate 
their merits. This Cabinet is cold . 

Under the apartments which 
contain the above-named antiques 
is a collection of Dresden china, 
from its commencement, by J. F. 
Bottcher, in 1701, to the present 
period. The inventor of this china 
was an apothecary's man at Ber- 
lin ; and finding himself suspected 
of being able to make gold, he 
deemed it prudent to retire to 
Dresden ; where, being ordered 
to prepare a powder for the trans¬ 
mutation of metals, he happened, 
in the course of his studies on 
this occasion, to discover the art 
of making Dresden china. The 
rooms which contain this china 
are damp and cold. 

There are two theatres at 
Dresden. 

The distance from Vienna to 
this city is about four hundred 
and fifty English miles ; and the 
expense of ferries and barriers for 
one carriage about three Tuscan 
sequins. The distance from Dres¬ 
den to Hamburgh is about the 
same ; and, in consequence of 
hearing that the road was ex¬ 
ecrably bad, and that the inns 
were very indifferent, we deter¬ 
mined to dismiss our mules and 
go by water, in an excellent boat, 
with three cabins, four beds, a 
place behind for men-servants. 


and another before for baggage. 
Our beds, fuel, kitchen-utensils, 
knives, forks, spoons, glasses, cups, 
saucers, plates, and dishes, were 
found by the master of the boat, 
who paid all the port-duties to the 
princes whose territories lay in 
our route, and maintained himself 
and four watermen, we giving him 
two hundred and fifty-live dollars 
of Saxony, (being florins three 
hundred eighty-two and a half,) 
an extravagant price, as boats a 
very little smaller go for one hun¬ 
dred and twenty-five dollars. In¬ 
deed, I would advise large families 
to hire a couple of these smaller 
boats; by which means, they 
would be better accommodated, and 
pay somewhat less than we did m . 

The Elbe is a remarkably safe 
river as far as Hamburgh, though 
in some places so shallow that 
large boats are apt to touch 
ground; but this does no harm, 
as the bottom is a soft sand. We 
were seven days and a half on our 
passage, the wind being contrary ; 
but with a favourable breeze, or 
indeed none at all, this voyage is 
usually accomplished in less than 
a week; even though you cast 
anchor for a few hours every 
night, in order to avoid the noise 
which the boatmen make while 
going on. We continually passed 
villages where bread, meat, fish, 
vegetables, eggs, milk, butter, 
and g*ood wine, were to be pur¬ 
chased ; and beer we took from 
Dresden. 

The banks of the Elbe are 
finely wooded. The most re¬ 
markable towns we passed near 
were, Meissen, where the Dresden 
china is made, and where there is 
a covered bridge over the Elbe ; 


(m) It is necesssary to have two mattresses for each bed, and curtains to 

all the cabin-windows. 


318 


HAMBURGH. 


[Oh. XII. 


Torgan, where there is another 
covered bridge over the Elbe, (the 
country from Dresden hither 
abounds with vineyards 11 ;) Wit- 
temberg, a handsome town, which 
contains an University, and is fa¬ 
mous for having been the abode of 
Luther, whose Tomb is in the 
Church belonging to the Castle 0 : 
here, likewise, is a bridge thrown 
over the Elbe; and here provisions 
of all kinds, beer, and wine, may 
be purchased better and cheaper 
than in any other place between 
Dresdenand Hamburgh; Cos wide, 
rather a large town, not far from 
which are the celebrated Gardens 
of Verlitzen ; and by landing at 
a place where the boatmen pay a 
tax, and walking to another place 
where they likewise pay a tax, 
Travellers may see these gardens 
without delaying their voyage; 
Magdeburg, a large and strongly- 
fortitied city, belonging to Prus¬ 
sia ; where, however, strangers 
cannot land without having their 
passports examined. We were 
detained here some hours, that our 
boatmen might pay the port-du¬ 
ties, which are heavy. After 
quitting this city, we passed seve¬ 
ral villages belonging to Hanover, 
among which was Lauenburg, ra¬ 
ther a large place, where, though 
the people look robust, there is a 
great appearance of poverty. 

The Elbe becomes immensely 
broad as it approaches Hamburgh, 
which city, supposed to contain 
an hundred and twenty thousand 
inhabitants, is built somewhat in 
the style of an old English coun¬ 
try town. The streets are straight, 
and planted with trees close to 

(«) Of all the excellent wines in this 
neighbourhood, that of Torgau is deemed 
the best. 

( o) Luther was chosen first to teach phi- 


tile houses ; the quay abounds 
with people of every nation ; the 
port is crowded with ships ; and 
the whole city exhibits an appear¬ 
ance of being the world’s ex¬ 
change. Here are no duties to 
pay at the custom-house. The 
inns at Hamburgh are neither 
good nor cheap. Private lodg¬ 
ings may be obtained ; though, 
like the inns, they are bad and 
dear. 

There are large numbers of 
storks on the banks of the Elbe, 
and in the city of Hamburgh; 
and, what is remarkable, these 
birds are held in such veneration 
by the common people, that they 
would probably murder any fo¬ 
reigner who attempted shooting a 
stork. 

The filial piety of this fowl has 
long been celebrated; and its sa¬ 
gacity in other instances seems 
equally extraordinary, judging 
from the following circumstance. 
A wild stork was brought by a 
farmer into his poultry-yard, to 
be the companion of a tame one 
he had long kept there ; but the 
tame stork, disliking the idea of 
a rival, fell upon the stranger, 
and beat him so unmercifully that 
he was compelled to take wing, 
and with some difficulty got away. 
About four months afterward, 
however, he returned to the poul¬ 
try-yard, recovered of his wounds, 
and attended by three other storks, 
who no sooner alighted than they 
fell upon the tame stork and killed 
him! 

From Hamburgh to Cuxhaven 
we went by water in one of the 
boats which usually convey pas- 

losophy, and afterward theology, in the 
University founded by Frederick Elector 
of Saxony, at Wittemberg. 


319 


Ch. XII.] CUXHAVEN—HARWICH PACKETS, fyc. 


senders, each of which is large 
enough to accommodate five or six 
persons; and contains beds, and 
a fire-place for cooking provisions. 
The time of embarkation is regu¬ 
lated by the tide. We were about 
eighteen hours in g'oing; and 
paid to our watermen, three in 
number, seventy marks for the 
boat, and four for drink-money; 
finding provisions for ourselves, 
but not for the watermen P. 

On arriving at Cuxhaven we 
luckily met with a packet ready 
to sail for Harwich. 

Every Cabin, or Whole Passenger 
pays for going from Cuxhaven 
to Harwich in a Post-Office 

(p) Public boats convey Passengers and 
luggage from Hamburgh to Cuxhaven 
every Tuesday and Friday, weather per¬ 
mitting. The price paid by a Cabin Pas¬ 
senger is fifteen marks;—by a Steerage 
Passenger eleven marks and four skillings ; 


packet. 1.5 5 0 

Every Half-Passenger 3 0 0 
Every four-wheeled carriage (the 
charge for shipping it not in¬ 
clusive) ....800 
Female Servants pay as Whole 
Passengers;—Children, under six 
years, as Half Passengers ;—and 
above that age as Whole Passen¬ 
gers q. 

Harwich packets sail to Cux¬ 
haven every Wednesday and Sa¬ 
turday, .about two o'clock in the 
afternoon, weather permitting; 
and return twice a week, if pos¬ 
sible. 

Cuxhaven, though a small town, 
contains clean Inns. 

—and by Servants four marks and twelve 
skillings each. 

(q) As the rates of passengers by post- 
office packets are occasionally altered, the 
best mode of gaining certain intelligence 
on this subject is by an application at the 
General Post-office in London. 














* * « 




* 

■ 



















































■ 





















ch - IJ ] FRANCE. 327 


Dover to Calais, and Boulogne, and 
vice versci, are the same as in Post- 
Office Packets. 

The expense of going from Dover 
to Calais in a Post-Office Packet is 
as follows: 

T _ l . s. (1. 

Ladies, Gentlemen, and fe- 
male Servants, each . 0 10 f> 
Men Servants, each . .050 

Four-wheeled carriages, each 3 3 0 
Horses, each . . 1 1 o 

Dismounting and shipping a 
four-w heeled carriage . 0 10 6 
Shipping trunks, <&c., about . 0 5 0 
Wharfage . . . .040 

Town and Harbour dues .020 

Commissioner . . .050 

The duty on every horse is seven¬ 
teen shillings; which, with other 
charges, amounts to about three 
pounds per horse. 

The expense of going from Dover 
to Ostend in a Post-Office Packet is 
as follows: 

l. s. d. 

Ladies and Gentlemen, each 110 
Servants, each . . . 0 10 6 

Persons who land at Ostend, in¬ 
stead of Calais, save two posts and a 
half on their way to Paris; beside 
an extra-charge of half a post, which 
is paid on leaving Calais. 

Families who sail in a Post-Office 
Packet are expected to give a trifling 
gratuity to the Mariners. 

Post-Office Packets sail from 
Dover for Calais four times a 
week, and for Ostend once a week. 
The passage from Dover to Bou¬ 
logne is somewhat longer than from 
Dover to Calais: but persons who 
land at Boulogne save four posts and 
a ‘quarter on their way to Paris: it 
must, however, be acknowledged, 
that the passage from Dover to 
Boulogne is, generally speaking, less 
favourable than from Dover to Ca¬ 
lais; though, on returning to Eng¬ 
land, the Boulogne packets usually 

* Persons who do not cross the Channel 
in a Steam-Packet, should endeavour to 
reach Calais soon enough to save the tide; 
by doing which, they are enabled to land 
from their vessel on the Quay, instead of 
beiug taken on shore in a French Harbour. 


have a much shorter and better pas¬ 
sage than those which sail from 
Calais. 

The distance between Dover and 
Calais is twenty-six miles and a half; 
and between Dover and Ostend ra¬ 
ther more. 

Passengers find their own pro¬ 
visions*. 

The expense of going from Bright- 
helmstone to Dieppe in a public 
Packet is as follows: 

l. s. d. 

Ladies and Gentlemen, each 1 11 0 

besides three shillings to the Boat¬ 
man who takes Passengers on board; 
and the same to the Boatman who 
takes them on shore at Dieppe. 

s* 

Four-wheeled carriages, each 4 4 0 

Passengers find their own pro¬ 
visions ; and the common passage, 
with a fair wind, is from eight to 
ten hours. 

The expense of going from South¬ 
ampton to Havre in the public Pack¬ 
et is as follows: 

l. ,r. d. 

Ladies and Gentlemen, each 2 2 0 

Servants, each.110 

Children each, if under twelve 
years.110 

Four-wheeled carriage ..550 

which, with other charges, amounts 
to between six and seven guineas. 

Two-wheeled carriage ... 3 3 0 

Horses, each.4 4 0 

Cabin, if a Family take it entirely to 
themselves, 21 1. 

Provisions during the voyage, half a gui¬ 
nea per head. 

The Southampton-Packets usually 
sail twice a week. 

A new and fast sailing Cutter of 
fifty-six tons register, called “ The 
Sarah,” goes from Plymouth to Bor¬ 
deaux every fortnight: and particu¬ 
lars respecting passage-money, fyc., 
may be obtained, by an application 

boat, and obliged to pay four livres and a 
half per head for going. 

Persons who laud in a Harbour-boat at 
Dover, (which is only needful when the 
tide does not serve to bring deck-vessels 
close to the Dover Quay) are charged four 
shillings per head. 




328 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


to Hawker and Sons, Briton-Side, 
Plymouth. 

A Diligence goes periodically from 
London to Paris; and places may be 
taken, and parcels booked, at the 
"White Bear, Piccadilly, in the form¬ 
er city; and at the Messageries Roy- 
■ales de la Rue Notre Dame ties 17c- 
toires, in the latter. The whole ex¬ 
pense usually incurred by each in¬ 
side - Passenger, from London to 
Paris, is about five pounds; and 
cutside-Passengers, of course, pay 
less: they sit with the Conducteur*, 
on a comfortable seat, which holds 
three persons, in front of the Dili¬ 
gence. Every Passenger is allowed 
to take, cost-free, as much luggage 
as weighs fourteen pounds t. 

Dejean, of Geneva, conveys Pas¬ 
sengers from London, through Paris, 
to Switzerland and Italy, allow ing 
them to remain two clays in the last- 
named city; or longer, provided 
they agree to pay an extra-price for 
so doing. Further particulars may 
be obtained by an application at 
No. 33, Hay-Market, London. 

Emery, an excellent Voiturin, 
likewise conveys Passengers from 
London, through Paris, to Switzer¬ 
land and Italy. Further particulars 
may be obtained by an application 
to Recordon, Watch-maker, Cock- 
spur-street, Charing-Cross, No. 33, 
or to Emery himself, at the White 
Bear, Piccadilly. 

The best Inn at Dover is Steriker's 
London Hotel. 

The most comfortable Inn at Ca¬ 
lais is The royal Hotel. L Hotel 
Dessin, and U Hotel tie Bourbon are 
likewise good inns. They all furnish 
travelling carriages, which may be 
either purchased or hired: and a 
carriage hired at Calais to go to 
Paris, remains there, at the disposal 

* The Conducteur has the charge of pas¬ 
sengers and luggage. 

t Coaches corresponding with the Mes¬ 
sageries Jloyalcs, Hue Noire D ime des 
Victoires, at Paris, go every morning and 
evening from The Golden-Cross, Charing- 
Cross ; and also from The Cross-Keys, 
Wood-street, Cheapside. In these Offices 


of the Hirer, during fifteen days; so 
that he may, within that period, re¬ 
turn it to Calais without additional 
expense. A French Cabriolet may 
usually be hired for about four Na¬ 
poleons ; and a coach for five or six. 

Every English carriage, on enter¬ 
ing France, is valued at the Custom- 
House; and one-third of the value 
deposited there, by the Owner; who, 
on quitting France, by the same 
route, receives back about two 
thirds of the deposit: unless he 
stay beyond three years, in which 
case the whole sum is forfeited. 
Should he quit France by a route 
different to that wherebv he entered, 
he must have his Custom-house- 
papers counter-signed at the last 
Frontier- Bureau ; and then, either 
send them to the Custom-house where 
his deposit was made, requesting to 
have the sum due to him remitted to 
his Banker; or, should he design 
passing again through France within 
the specified three years, he may, 
by retaining his papers, and pro¬ 
ducing them at the Custom-house 
belonging to the Port where he em¬ 
barks his carriage, recover the two 
thirds of his deposit. Beside this 
deposit, a duty of twenty francs is 
paid upon every English carriage 
wdien landed in France; and be¬ 
tween thirty and forty francs more 
are usually charged for clearance, §'c. 

English Families on arriving at 
Calais, or Boulogne, generally com¬ 
mission their landlord to clear their 
luggage; and the great Inns at Calais, 
and Boulogne, are provided with 
Commissaries who manage this bu¬ 
siness ; for doing which they expect 
per carriage and family, ten francs. 

Travellers charged with sealed 
letters should not expose them to 
the view of Custom-house-Oflicers ; 

places may be secured to Dover, Calais, 
Paris, and all the great towns of France; 
and likewise to Brussels, Geneva, and 
Milan. 

The Directeur des Messageries, in 
London, engages to convey luggage of every 
description to any part of the Continent, 
either by the Diligence, or the Roulagc. 


Ch. II.] MONEY OF FRANCE—EXPENSE OF TRAVELLING. 329 


and luggage should be plumbed at 
every Frontier Custom-house. 

MONEY OF FRANCE. 

Gold coins most in use are, the 
Napoleon, or new Louis, worth 
twenty francs; the double Napo¬ 
leon, worth forty francs; and the 
old Louis, worth about twenty-three 
francs and a half. 

Silver coins most in use are, the 
piece of five francs; the piece of 
three francs; the piece of two 
francs; the piece of one franc and a 
half; and the piece of fifty cen¬ 
times, being half a franc. Copper 
coins most in use are, the piece of 
two sous, being ten centimes; and 
the piece of one sou, being five cen¬ 
times. Twenty sous make one franc, 
or livre, for they are synony¬ 
mous. 

Accounts are kept in francs and 
centimes, both by Bankers and other 
persons : but, as the different Bank¬ 
ing-houses at Paris vary in the 
prices they give for paper drawn on 
them, it is advisable for Travellers 
to make inquiries, respecting this 
subject, before they leave England. 

Napoleons are the most profitable 
coin a Traveller can take to France : 
and it is, generally speaking, easy to 
exchange English money for Napo¬ 
leons, at Dover, Brighthelmstone, 
and Southampton. 

The expense attendant upon tra¬ 
velling on the Continent greatly de¬ 
pends upon the disposition of the 
Travellers, and the manner in which 
they travel. Persons who go post 
in an English carriage, preceded by 
a Courier, usually disburse a large 
sum of money, without living at all 
more luxuriously than persons who 
travel in a Diligence. At small pro¬ 
vincial Inns, I have often seen better 

* Persons who travel in their own car¬ 
riage are usually charged at the Ilotel- 
Dessin, at Calais, for breakfast, per head, 
2 francs—dinner, 0 francs—coffee, 1 franc- 
bed and sitting-room, 9 francs—and for their 


dinners carried to the Table (T Hote, 
than my Family procured by the 
order of our Courier. We were, in¬ 
deed, sometimes compelled to wait 
for the refuse of the Table cV Hote ; 
probably because the larder at a 
provincial Inn may not always be 
sufficiently well stored to provide 
for Travellers who go post, and are 
therefore accidental Visitors; though 
Diligence-Passengers, being con¬ 
stant Customers, are certain to find 
a good meal prepared for them. 
After this preface, the Reader will 
not be surprised when I subjoin, 
that persons who travel post in 
France, with an Avant-Courier, sel¬ 
dom pay less, per head, than three 
francs for breakfast, and ten for sup¬ 
per and beds : but persons who tra¬ 
vel without parade, (though in their 
own carriage,) seldom pay more, per 
head, than two francs for breakfast, 
three for dinner, and from five to 
six and a half for supper and 
beds*. 

Fees to Servants at public-houses 
are very moderate; a Porter never 
expecting more than twelve sous, 
and a chamber-maid, or Waiter, 
never more than double that sum, 
from each Traveller. Twenty-four 
sous are likewise quite sufficient to 
satisfy the Servant who greases the 
wheels of a travelling-carriage. 
French Inns, some years since, were 
not celebrated for cleanliness, beds 
and table-linen excepted; but now 
they are, on all points, much im¬ 
proved. 

An English Gentleman, who lately 
made an excursion from Plymouth 
to Guernsey, and thence to S. Malo, 
Rennes, Nantes, Tours, and Orleans, 
gives the following account of ex¬ 
penses, §c. 

Passage from Guernsey to S. Malo 
for an Adult, ten shillings English; 

servants, per head, three francs and a half 
for breakfast and dinner: but, at other 
Hotels, some of the charges are more mo¬ 
derate. 


320 


APPENDIX. 


and for a child under twelve years 
of age, five shillings English *. 

The road from S. Malo to Rennes 
is rough ; from Rennes to Nantes 
better; and from Nantes to Tours 
and Orleans excellent. 

The banks of the Loire (anciently 
called the Ligeris), between S. Malo 
and Orleans, are enchanting. Na¬ 
ture, indeed, seems to have borrowed 
the pencils of Salvator Rosa and 
Claude Lorrain, to unite, in one vast 
and ever-varying landscape, the 
boldness and sublimity of the one, 
with all the placid beauties of the 
other. Passage-boats may be met 
with to descend the Loire from Or¬ 
leans to Nantes, one of the most 
delightful aquatic excursions in 
France. The Masters of these boats 
land their Passengers every evening, 
that they may eat and sleep on shore; 
and the fare, from Orleans to Nantes, 
does not exceed fifteen francs. The 
latter is a handsome town, pleasantly 
situated; and containing excellent 
Inns. Good dinners, table-wine in¬ 
clusive, are furnished by the Inn¬ 
keepers here, at three francs a head; 
and a large Family may live very 
comfortably in this part of France 
for five hundred pounds per annum. 
Tours is a handsome town, contain¬ 
ing two excellent Inns, The Boule 
iVor , and The Faison; and, likewise, 
an English Protestant-Chapel. Inn¬ 
keepers at Tours furnish breakfast, 
without tea, for one franc a head; 
dinner, table-wine inclusive, for 
three francs; and a bed for about 
thirty sous. 

The fruit in this neighbourhood 
is delicious, and remarkably cheap. 

PRICE OF POST-IIORSES, 8{C. 

The usual price for every horse is 
one franc and fifty centimes (thirty 
sous) a post; and every French post 
is, generally speaking, from five to 
six English miles in length. 

A driver cannot demand more 
than seventy-five centimes (fifteen 

* A Packet sails from Weymouth to 
Guernsey every Wednesday and Saturday, 


[Ch. II. 

sous) a post; but expects from thirty 
to thirty-five sous for a common 
post, and twice that sum for a post- 
roval. Postillions, indeed, both in 
France and Italy, seem to think they 
have a right to the same sum, per 
post, for themselves, that the post¬ 
masters charge per horse. 

Travellers, on arriving in France, 
ought to purchase the u Etat gene¬ 
ral des Posies a new edition of 
which is printed yearly, and as al¬ 
terations are frequently made in this 
post-book, it is expedient to inquire 
for the last edition. 

The following regulations are 
usually found in the “ Etat general 
des Posies .” 

Two-wheeled carriages, called ca¬ 
briolets, must have two horses and 
one postillion. 

Coaches, called berlines, and post- 
chaises with poles, must always have 
four horses; though never more than 
six ; with two postillions. 

Four-wheeled carriages d limo- 
niete (that is, with shafts, instead of 
a pole), must have three horses and 
one postillion. 

Post-masters at Paris, and within 
fifteen leagues of that city, are for¬ 
bidden to supply a Stranger with 
post-horses, unless the Stranger ex¬ 
hibit a permission to travel post, 
from the Directeur General; which 
permission is delivered, gratis, to 
every person who presents a proper 
passport. 

It is the custom now in Frahee to 
put shafts to every English post- 
chaise ; lashing the pole under the 
perch: because an English post- 
chaise, conveying four persons, is 
permitted to travel with one postil¬ 
lion and three horses (four being 
paid for); provided it have shafts; 
which can always be obtained in 
post-towns for twenty francs: and 
this mode of travelling generally 
costs about fourteen-pence, English, 
per mile, fees to postillions inclu¬ 
sive. 

weather permitting; and the Hotels, in 
both places, are good. 


Ch. II.] FRANCE—PUBLIC CONVEYANCES. 38T 


An English post-chaise, convey¬ 
ing three persons only, is permitted 
to travel with one postillion and 
three horses, no fourth horse being 
paid for, provided the carriage have 
shafts. 

Distances, in this country, are 
computed by leagues; one French 
league being equal to about three 
thousand geometrical paces; and 
stones are frequently placed half a 
league from each other, on great 
roads, to mark distances*. 


tariff of 1822 . 


No. of Per- 
sous. 

1 

2 

3 

4 


CABRIOLETS. 


No. of 
Horses. 
2 
2 
3 
3 


Price per 
Horse. 


Li Francs. 

if 

2 


Sum Total. 

3 Francs. 

3 

4 £ 

G 


LIMONIERES. 

1, 2, or 3 3 

4 3 2 6 


N.B. For every person, exceeding the 
number of four, there is an extra charge of 
one franc and fifty centimes. 


BERLINES. 

1,2, or 3 4 1J G 

4, or 5 6 1A 9 

G G lj 10J 

N.B. For every person, exceeding the 
number of six, there is an extra charge of 
one franc and fifty centimes. 

A berime is not to be drawn by 
more than six horses. 

One child, if under six years, pays 
nothing: and two children, if not 
above that age, are considered equi¬ 
valent to only one adult. 

In cases where permission is 
granted to post-masters to put on 
extra-horses, the third, or extra¬ 
horse, is charged at one franc and 
fifty centimes per post. This per¬ 
mission is sometimes granted for the 
whole year, and sometimes for the 


six winter-months only, commencing 
on the first of November. 

It is customary in ascending the 
mountain of Tartare, near Lyon, and 
the mountain of Echelles, to employ 
oxen; and to pay for them, per pair, 
thirty sous a post. 

It is likewise customary and ad¬ 
visable, at every post, to pay the 
post-master for his horses before- 
they set out. 

The posts in France are well 
served; and the roads, generally 
speaking, good : it has, however, of 
late years, been much the practice 
to travel in Diligences; which go, 
both by land and water, from Paris 
to all the departments of the empire. 
The water-Diligence, called a Coche- 
tVeau, should always be preferred to 
the land-Diligence in those pro¬ 
vinces where the roads are rough, 
and where the Traveller can descend 
a river; to ascend being tedious. 

USUAL PRICE OF PUBLIC CAR¬ 
RIAGES THROUGHOUT FRANCE. 

Oue inside-place, per league, in a 
Diligence . . Sous IG 

One place in the cabriolet, or outside 
seat of a Diligence . . .19 

One place in a Fourgon , or luggage- 
cart . • • . .9 

One place in a Coche-d’eau . 3 

Public carriages in France are 
more convenient and less crowded 
than in England; and the civility 
Foreigners generally receive from 
Conductors of Diligences, Passen¬ 
gers and Inn-keepers, renders this 
mode of conveyance pleasant: be¬ 
side which, luggage of every descrip¬ 
tion is conveyed remarkably safe by 
French Diligences t. 

The Diligence which goes from 
Paris to Brussels contains eight 
places; the distance is sixty-six 


' * As there are no regular toll-gates, either 
in France or Italy, Travellers seldom find 
themselves called upon to contribute to¬ 
ward the expense or repairing the roads; 
except it be on crossing some of the new 
bridges ; (where a toll of from one to three 
francs, per carriage, is paid;) and likewise 
on crossing the Simplon, and the Mont 
Cenis. 


t We experienced this; for, on our ar¬ 
rival at Lyon, we found it necessary to 
send our imperials by the Diligence to Niice ; 
they contained trinkets, lace, <£c., of con¬ 
siderable value; and, owing to inattention 
on tie part of our Courier, were neither 
locked nor corded ; but, nevertheless, ar¬ 
rived at Nice in perfect safety. 


332 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


leagues; and every passenger pays 
three louis-d’ors; being, for that 
sum, provided with dinner, supper, 
half a bottle of table-wine at each 
meal, and a good bed at night. 
■Sometimes, indeed, there are several 
beds in the same chamber; but, for 
twenty sous extra, a room containing 
only one bed may usually be pro¬ 
cured. The Passengers pay the fees 
to servants at inns, who do not, how¬ 
ever, expect more than ten sous 
per night from any person travel¬ 
ling in a Diligence. 

The Brussels Diligence stops on 
the first night at Peronne, on ithe 
second at Mons, and on the third 
arrives at Brussels. 

CANAL OF LANGUEDOC. 

From Bordeaux to Toulouse, 
against the stream, the Merchant- 
boat is ten days in going up the 
Garonne: from Toulouse to Bor¬ 
deaux, with the stream, three days 
in going down. The price, per 
head, in the Merchant-boat, from 
Bordeaux to Toulouse, is twelve 
livres. The price per head in the 
Government packet-boat down the 
Canal, from Toulouse to Beziers, is 
nine livres ten sous; and the accom¬ 
modations are good. Luggage, per 
quintal, costs four livres twelve sous; 
and the time employed in going is 
three days. The voyage, on board a 
Merchant-boat, from Toulouse to 
Cette, generally occupies a week. 
Merchant-boats take carriages; but 
the Government packet boat does 
not. Between Bordeaux and Tou¬ 
louse, during summer, the Garonne 
is occasionally so shallow that boats 
cannot pass. The canal shuts on 
the fifteenth of August, that it may 
be cleansed; and opens again on the 
first of October. 

The towns visited by Travellers 
who pursue this route are, Bor- 

* If Travellers find themselves aggrieved, 
either by an Inn keeper or a Post-master 
in France, they should have immediate re¬ 
course to the Maire or sous-Prefect of the 
district; these Magistrates being bound to 


deaux, Toulouse, Villefranche, Car¬ 
cassonne, Beziers, and Adge; where 
vessels bound for Marseille may be 
heard of daily, by an application at 
the Custom-house. 

Travellers may go from Paris to 
Cette by the inland navigation. 

The passage by sea, for one per¬ 
son, from Cette to Leghorn, costs 
three Napoleons; and from Mar¬ 
seille to Leghorn, five Napoleons. 

MESSAGERIE A CHEVAL. 

In the western and southern parts 
of France persons who choose to 
travel on horseback consign their 
luggage to the Messager-en-chef ; 
who conveys it from place to place 
in a Fourgon or covered cart, set¬ 
ting out himself very early every 
morning; but previously informing 
his Passengers where they are to 
dine; and likewise where they are 
to sleep. He provides them with 
good horses; and does not regulate 
their hour of departure, further than 
to require that they shall reach the 
dining-place by twelve at noon. On 
arriving, they always find a good 
dinner prepared for them, with 
half a bottle of table-wine allotted to 
each passenger. After dinner they 
set out again ; and, on reaching the 
inn where they are to sleep, find a 
good supper ready to be served; 
and, generally speaking, every pas¬ 
senger gets a good bed. The Mes- 
sager seldom takes his little troop 
above six leagues a day: and so 
economical is this mode of travel¬ 
ling that, from Nantes to Paris, a 
journey of ninety leagues, the price 
is only sixty francs, every expense, 
except fees to servants at inns, in¬ 
clusive *. 

The distance from Calais to Paris, 
through Amiens, is computed to be, 

English miles . . . i S 6i 

from Calais to Paris, through Beau- 

vais . . . . . 172 

redress grievances. 

Every Post-master is obliged to keep, 
under the superintendence of the Maire of 
the district, a Register, in which Travellers 
have a right to enter their complaints. 


FRANCE—ROUTES. 


Ch. II.] 


33* 


From Ostend to Paris, through Lille 192| 
From Dieppe to Paris, through 
Rouen .... 123 

From Ha vre-de-Grace to Paris, 
through Rouen . . . I64f 

ROUTE FROM CALAIS, THROUGH 
AMIENS, TO PARIS. 

Posts. 

if Hautbuisson —Road good. An extra¬ 
half-post is paid on quitting Calais. 

1 Marquise —Best inn, Le Cerf. 

if Boulogne —Road paved. When the 
pavement is not well kept, say to 
your postillion, “ Allez sur la 
terre and he will generally take 
the road on the side of the pave¬ 
ment. Parker’s Hotel d’Angle- 
terre, and l’Hotel d’Londres are 
good inns. 

A Packet is established to sail from 
Rye to Boulogne every Monday. 
Price, for each cabin-passenger, 
one guinea. 

2 Sanier—The Tele de Bceuf is a good 

inn. 

J Cormont —Best inn, Le Renard. 

Ah Montrevil —The water here is bad. 
L’Hotel d’ Londrcs, and VHotel 
de l'Europe, are good inns. 

If Nampont 
1 Be may 

1 Nouvoin —The country from Calais 
hither is, generally speaking, open, 
and thinly peopled. 

If Abbeville—A handsome city, seated on 
the Somme, and supposed to con¬ 
tain 20,000 inhabitants. Best inns. 
The Tcte de Bceuf, VHotel d’An- 
gletcrre, V Hotel de l’Europe, 
and VHotel de France. 
li fitly le llaut-Clocher 
If Flu court 
1 Pecquigny 

If Amiens—anciently Atnbianus. I his 
is a large and handsome city, and 
a cheap place for permanent resi¬ 
dence. The Cathedral here (par¬ 
ticularly its nave) is deemed the 
most perfect piece of Gothic archi¬ 
tecture in France; and the best inns 
are, The Post-house, VHotel du 
Rui de Prusse, l’Hotel de I’A- 
breuvoir, and l’Hotel des Atnbas- 
sadeurs. The country from Ab¬ 
beville hither abounds with corn; 
and mauy parts of the road are 
bordered with fruit trees. An ex¬ 
tra-half-post is paid on quitting 
Amiens. 


1 HebZrcourt 
1 Fleurs 

If Bretueil—The Hotel de .S'. Nicolas 
here is a tolerably good inn. 
if Wavigny 

1 St. Juste *—The road from Boulogne 

hither is good ; and lienee to Paris 
paved and in excellent condition. 

2 Clermont—Le point du Jour is a tole¬ 

rable inn. 
if Lingueville 
if Chantilly 
if J/uzarches 

If Ecouen —The Hotel de Lille is a very 
good inn. 
if St. Denis 

1 Paris—An extra-post is paid, both on 

- entering and on quitting this citv. 

34 f posts. 'is J 


ROUTE FROM CALAIS, THROUGH 
BEAUVAIS, TO PARIS. 

This road is less hilly than that 
through Amiens, and in all respects 
equally good. 

I3f Abbeville—See the preceding route, 
from Calais through Amiens, to 
Paris. 

2f Airaines—The Post-house is a good 
inn,; and Le Lion d’or appears 
good, 
if Camps 
if Poix 

if Granvilliers—I A Hotel d’Anglettrre 
is the only tolerable inn. 
if Marseille-sur-Oise — Best inns, Le 
grand Cerf, and L’Epee Royale. 
2f Beauvais—Best inns, L’Ecu de 

France, Les trots Fleurs-de-lis , 
and Le Cygne. 
if Noailles 
If Puiscux 

If Beaumont-sur-Oise —Best inns, Le 
Paon, and Le grand Cerf. 

If Moisclles 
If S. Denis 
1 Paris 

32f posts. 

ROUTE FROM OSTEND TO PARIS, 
THROUGH LILLE. 

2f Tourout 

1 Rousselart 

2 Menin 

2 Lille—The inhabitants of this city 
amount to 65,000 f. The Citadel is 


* The Post-master has a right to put on 
an extra-horse from S. Juste to Clermont. 

+ Lille contains a good School for young 
Ladies, kept by persons of high respecta¬ 
bility ; who teach the French, English, 
German, and Italian languages; together 
with music, dancing, and every kind of 


fancy work, for thirty-five louis d'ors per 
annum, board, washing, and all expenses 
inclusive. They likewise pay great atten¬ 
tion to the health of their Pupils, and are 
celebrated for the cleanliness of their semi¬ 
nary. 


334 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


one of the strongest in Europe. 
The 'principalGate, theTkeatre, 
and the Exchange, merit observa¬ 
tion. U Hotel de Gand, near the 
Diligence Office, is a good inn ; so 
likewise is L’ Hotel de Bourbon. 
An extra quarter of a post is paid 
on quitting Lille. 

H Pont-ii-Marcq 

2f Douay —This town contains a fine 
Arsenal, a Cannon-Foundry, and 
an Artillery-School. The Church, 
the Hotel de Ville, the Grande 
Place, and the Ramparts, de¬ 
serve notice. UHotel de Ver¬ 
sailles is one of the best inns. An 
extra quarter of a post is paid on 
quitting Douay. 

Bac-Aubencheul 

If Cambray—anciently Camara cum. The 
Citadel, though old, is a fine one. 
The Hotel de Ville and the Epis¬ 
copal Palace merit attention ; as 
does the pyramidical Belfry of 
the large Church. 

If Bonavy 
if Fins 

2 Pcronne —This town is seated on the 

Somme. The best inn here is The 
Hotel S. Alar tin. 

If Marche-le-Pot 
1 Fonches 
1 Roye 

If Conchy-les-Pots 

3 Cuvilly 

1 Gournay-sur-Aronde 
If Bois-de-IJhus 
14 Pont S. Maxence 
1-f Senlis 

1 La Chapelle-en-Senal 
If Louvres 

if Bourget 
if Paris 

30f posts. 

ROUTE FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS, 
THROUGH ROUEN. 

Dieppe is a handsome town, sup¬ 
posed to contain 20,000 inhabitants. 
The large Church of S. Jaques merits 
notice; as does the view from the 
Cliff’s. The best inns are, The Ho¬ 
tel de Paris , The Hotel de grande 
Maison, and The Hotel d 1 Angleterre. 
The master of the last-named inn is 
an Englishman, by name, Taylor *. 

2 Onion ville —An extra quarter of a post 

is paid on quitting Dieppe. 


If Totes —The inn here is tolerably good. 

If Cambres 

2 Rouen—This city, anciently called Bo- 
tonwgus, is supposed to contain 
73,000 inhabitants. The Great 
Hall of the Palace—the old Cas¬ 
tle — the large Church—the ci- 
devant Benedictine Church of S. 
Ouen, and its Belfry —and the 
Church belonging to V Ilopital 
Madelaine, merit notice. The 
road between Paris and Rouen 
presents rich and beautiful scenery. 
An extra half post is paid on quit¬ 
ting Rouen. 

If Forge-Ferette 

1 Bourg-Baudouin 

1J Ecouis 

2 Tilliers 

2 Magny 

If Bordeau-de-Vigny 

2 Pontoise — The Church of <S'. Martin 
is celebrated for its architecture ; 
and the Church of S. Mallon con¬ 
tains a famous Descent from the 
Cross. 

If Franconville 

If St. Denis 

1 Paris. 


22j posts. 

ROUTE FROM IIAVRE-DE-GRACE TO 
PARIS, THROUGH ROUEN AND 
S. GERMAIN-EN-LAYE. 

Havre, situated at the mouth of 
the Seine, is a flourishing’ commer¬ 
cial city, which contains 19,600 in¬ 
habitants, and possesses the advan¬ 
tage of a Port accessible during 
almost every wind: its Floodgates 
and Basins, made by Napoleon, me¬ 
rit notice. The largest inn at Havre 
is The Hotel de S. Francois; but 
The Hotel d’ Angleterre is the cheap¬ 
est and most comfortable. The usual 
charge for supper and beds at the 
latter is four francs a head; and for 
dinner, at the table d’ hote , from two 
to three francs. 

2 La Botte —An extra half-post is paid 
on quitting Havre. 

If Bolbec 
If Aliquerville 
if Yvetot 
2f Barentin 
2 Rouen 


* Persons w ho go from Dieppe to Paris, 
and are not anxious to see Rouen, may 
pursue a shorter route, namely, through 
Bois-Bobert, Pommerevel, Forges, Gour • 


nay, Gisors, Chars, Pontoise, and Fran¬ 
conville. Packets from Dieppe to Brwh- 
ton sail every evening from the fifteentlTof 
April till the fifteenth of October. 



FRANCE—PARIS. 


335 


Ch. II.] 

1J Port S. Ouen 
2 Louviers 
li Gaillon 
1} Vernon 
lj Bonnieres 
1-2 Mantes 
2 Me ulan 
1 Triel 

1.} S. Gcrmain-en-Laye 
l.J Nanterre 
l| Paris. 


117% posts. 

Paris (as I have already mention¬ 
ed), is said to contain three hundred 
Hotels, many of which are splen¬ 
didly furnished : some of them, how¬ 
ever, may be with more propriety 
denominated ready-furnished lodg¬ 
ing-houses, than Hotels; as they 
neither provide eatables nor wait¬ 
ers ; though the English custom of 
doing both has lately gained ground : 
but no Hotel provides fire-wood; 
which is an expensive article, and 
can only be purchased reasonably at 
the wood-yards, where it usually 
costs from thirty to forty francs 
a load. The Rue de la Paix , the 
Place Vendome , the Rue de Ri- 
voli, and the Rue de Richelieu , 
contain the best Hotels; among 
which are The Hotel de Londres , 
Place Vendome, the Hotel Meu- 
vice, Rue de Rivoli, The Hotel d’ 
Hollande, Rue de la Paix, and The 
Hotel de IVagram, Rue de la Paix: 
but accommodations for a moderate¬ 
sized family, in this quarter, usually 
cost five hundred francs a month; 
whereas the same accommodations, 
in the Faubourg S. Germain, may 
be obtained for two-thirds of that 
sum ; and near the Messageries Roy- 
ales for still less *. Ready-furnished 
apartments may likewise be hired in 
private houses; and several respect¬ 
able Parisians take Boarders: but 

* The Proprietors of great hotels do not, 
in general, like to receive Travellers by the 
day; but, at the Hotel de Bruxelles, Rue 
de Richelieu, The Hotel d’Angleterre, 
Rue Filles S. Thomas, and The Hotel 
d' Montauban , Rue Glt-le-Coeur, this is not 
the case. The master of the first-named 
house keeps a good Table d’Hote, at which 
Ladies may dine without any impropriety: 
and at all of these hotels families may be 
supplied with excellent dinners in their own 


Families who design to remain some 
time at Paris, and wish to live with 
economy there, should rent an un¬ 
furnished apartment in the Faubourg 
S. Jacques, hiring furniture of an 
upholsterer. Persons who travel in 
a Diligence, may usually procure 
apartments at the Hotel attached to 
the Diligencc-Oilice, or some other 
in the vicinity. 

Eatables and w'ine are good at 
Paris; and Restaurateurs will send 
plentiful dinners to large families at 
four or five francs per head, bread, 
fruit, and wine, not included: but 
single men are better served by 
taking their meals at the house of a 
Restaurateur; which is a sort of ta¬ 
vern, where Ladies likewise may dine 
without the smallest impropriety. 
Ladies are also in the habit, after 
dinner, of frequenting the Cafes; 
where tea, coffee, chocolate, capil- 
laire, §'c. are served in the morning; 
and coffee, liqueurs, beer, lemonade, 
and ices, in the evening. There also 
are Cafes for what is called a de¬ 
jeuner fro id d. la fourchette ; which 
consists of sausages, cold meat, eggs, 
and excellent wines; and as the Pa¬ 
risians seldom dine before five or 
six o’clock, they frequently take 
these meat breakfasts. Very is a 
celebrated Restaurateur, and has 
two houses; one in the Palais- 
Roycd, Galerie de pierre, and the 
other in the Rue de Rivoli; but 
persons who dine at either of his 
houses should take care to order 
only such a number of portions of 
each dish as they are likely to 
eat; every portion being charged 
separately. The carte d manger is 
given into your hands the moment 
you enter these taverns, with the 
price per portion of every dish, 

apartments, for four francs a head, with 
breakfast for two francs a head; with 
wood, per day, for two francs; and with a 
saloon, bed-room, and servants’ rooms, for 
about twenty francs a night. For servants* 
eating, the usual charge is five francs and a 
half per day. 

There is an excellent Hotel at No. 3, 
Rue des Petits Augustins, for very small 
families, or single persons: it is kept by 
Mrs. Bel, au English woman. 



336 APPENDIX. . [Ch.II. 


and a list of the wines and their 
prices*. 

The Cafe des Milles Colonnes, sur 
la place da Palais-Royal, is cele¬ 
brated for the excellence of its ices, 
fyc. The Cafe-Hardy, on the Boule¬ 
vard des italiens, is likewise cele¬ 
brated for excellent ices, and meat- 
breakfasts. 

A good Valet-de-Place, who speaks 
English, may be hired for five francs 
a day, he finding himself in every 
thing. 

A Job-Coach, coachman’s wages 
inclusive, usually costs from eighteen 
to twenty francs per day; and from 
four hundred and fifty to five hun¬ 
dred francs per month : but, if these 
carriages be taken a few miles into 
the country, the coachman expects 
live francs for himself. 

Hackney-Coaches, Chariots, and 
Cabriolets, are paid for either by 
the fare, or by time. For a coach, 
or chariot, the price is thirty sous 
per fare; the driver having a right 
to demand a fare whenever ordered 
to stop; but if he be not ordered 
to stop, he must drive from one ex¬ 
tremity of Paris to the other for the 
above-mentioned price. The fare 
by time is two francs for the first 
hour, thirty sous for every subse¬ 
quent hour, and fifteen for every 
half-hour, unless it be from mid¬ 
night till four in the morning, when 
the price is doubled: and if the 
clock strike twelve immediately be¬ 
fore the dismissal of a hackney- 
coach, the coachman has a right 
to demand ten sous extra. Hack¬ 
ney-Coachmen expect drink-money; 
though they cannot demand it. 

The price in public Carriages 
which go to Versailles, S. Cloud, 

* The price of ready-furnished apart¬ 
ments, and likewise of provisions, at Pajis, 
is rising rapidly, owing to the great influx 
of British Travellers. 

t The French pound, called poids de ta¬ 
ble, is about fourteen ounces and a half; 
and the kilogram about thirty-five ounces. 

X A melancholy proof of this occurred not 
long since at Pisa. Two Ladies were living 
together in that city, when one of them 
complaining of cramp in her stomach, the 
other gave her a wine-glass of Ratafia, 
which happened to be in the house. Shortly 


S. Denis, and other environs of Paris 
is from twenty to forty sous each 
Passenger. The public carriages 
which go to Versailles, S. Germain, 
S. Cloud, and all the western en¬ 
virons of Paris, are stationed at the 
extremity of the Quay of the Tuile- 
ries; and those which go to S. Denis, 
and the other northern environs, in 
the Rue iF Enghien, or the Rue de 
Mably, near the Gate of S. Denis. 

Public Boats go almost every 
hour of the day to Meudon, S. 
Cloud, <Sfc. 

The average price of prime joints 
of butchers’ meat is from ten to 
thirteen sous the poundt—of fowls, 
from thirty-five to forty sous each— 
of the best bread from five to six 
sous the pound—and of common 
table-wine from twenty to twenty- 
five sous the bottle. 

A breakfast d lafourchette, usually 
costs one franc per head; unless tea 
be required, when the price is three 
francs; but, in these prices, wine is 
not included. 

A dinner at a Restaurateur’s may 
usually be procured for two francs a 
head, or even less, exclusive of wine. 

Corcellet, Marchand de Comesti¬ 
bles, au Gourmand, Palais-Royal , 
sells ortolans, game, poultry. Ham- 
burgh-beef,Bayonne-hams,Bologna- 
sausages, Perigord, and other cele¬ 
brated meat-pies, grocery, Italian, 
Swiss, and English cheeses, English 
ale, porter, mustard, tea, Cayenne- 
pepper, curry-powder, and fish- 
sauces; w ines, liqueurs, with almost 
every other article of luxury for a 
table. He likewise sells ratafias; 
but liquors of this kind, whether in 
France or Italy, are extremely de¬ 
leterious J. 

after having swallowed it she died, so evi¬ 
dently in consequence of poison, that strong 
suspicions fell upon her friend; who, to 
prove her innocence, took the same quan¬ 
tity of Ratafia herself, which she had ad¬ 
ministered to the deceased, and expired 
within a few hours. 

Impelled by this circumstance, Professor 
Santi, of Pisa, wrote a beautiful little work, 
to shew that ltatafia has of late years been 
made with Italian laurel leaves ; the extract 
from which is a deadly poison. 


PARIS. 


337 


Ch. II.] 

Meunier, Rue de S. Peres, No. 22, 
sells foreign wines and liqueurs— 
Cliquot, Rue S. Andre des Arcs, 
No. 61, sells good Champagne—and 
Laforet, Rue de Clery, No. 5, sells 
good Bordeaux. 

Good chocolate is to be found 
at Auger's, Rue neuve des Petits 
Champs, No. 91. 

Berthe]lemot, in the Palais-Royal, 
is a good Confectioner. 

One of the best shops for Lyon- 
silks, embroidery, Sfc., is Nourtier’s, 
au Page , Rue Vivienne. French 
figured silks and satins are from ten 
to fourteen francs the aune, which is 
an English ell; Levantines from six 
to ten francs; and Florence-silks 
from four to seven francs. 

One of the best shops for lace is 
Le Sueur’s, Rue de Grammont. 

A celebrated shop for embroidery 
is that of Mademoiselle le Boeuf, cl 
la Balayeuse, Rue neuve des Petits 
Champs; and in the same street 
is a celebrated shop for corsets, 
kept by Mademoiselle Picard, at 
No. 52. 

Madame Leroy, Rue de Richelieu, 
and Madame d’Herbault, Rue neuve 
S. Augustin, are celebrated milliners. 

M.M. Vernier, Rue Vivienne, No. 
19, are good woollen-drapers. 

M.M. Prarond, Rue de la Baril- 
lerie, No. 1, sell good silk stockings. 

Melinotte, in the Rue de la Paix, 
is an excellent Ladies’ Shoemaker; 
and charges, whether for silk or 
leather shoes, six francs the pair; 
for thin boots, from twelve to fifteen 
francs; and for thick boots lined 
with fur, twenty-four francs : Ladies’ 
shoes and boots ready-made, may, 
in other shops, be purchased cheap¬ 
er; and excellent men’s shoes and 
boots, together with Ladies’ shoes, 
called Piqudes (and calculated to 
resist the chill of brick floors, may 
likewise be met with at Paris *. 

Ilalligner, No. 41, Rue Neuve des 

* These Piquees are made sufficiently 
large to be worn over other shoes, and 
lined with calico wadding, or cotton, quilted 


Mathurins, is a good coachmaker, 
and repairs English carriages re¬ 
markably well. 

The highest price usually given to 
music and dancing masters is six 
francs a lesson. 

Galignani, Librarian, Rue Vivi¬ 
enne, No. 18, sells English books; 
and publishes an English news¬ 
paper every morning, Sundays ex¬ 
cepted; the price per month, being 
nine francs; per quarter, twenty- 
four francs; per half-year, forty-four 
francs; and per year, eighty-four 
francs. For one extra franc per 
quarter the paper is franked through¬ 
out France; and for two extra-francs 
throughout Italy, Switzerland, and 
Germany. Subscriptions are re¬ 
ceived by every Bookseller and Di¬ 
rector of the Post-Offices through¬ 
out France, Italy, Switzerland and 
Germany; they must, however, be 
paid in advance. 

Monsieur Sensier, No. 247, Rue 
S. Denis, is a Notary-public, who 
understands English, and transacts 
business for the British nation. 

Persons who require medical aid 
would find a skilful Practitioner in 
Mr. Tupper, Surgeon, Rue de la Paix. 

Neret and Co. Apothecaries and 
Chemists, No. 309, Rue S. Honor6, 
sell English medicines, and prepare 
prescriptions in the English manner. 
English medicines may also be pro¬ 
cured of Fortin, Apothecary, Rue 
lie la Paix t. 

Baudouin, Rue Lepellelier, No. 2 
—Darrac, Rue neuve S. Eustache, 
No. 7—and Poussin, Rue de la 
Verrerie, No. 54, are good Uphol¬ 
sterers. 

The prices at the Opera, or Aca- 
demie Royale de Musique, are as 
follow: Balcony, each person, ten 
fran.es—First row of boxes, seven 
francs and fifty centimes—-Second 
row of boxes, six francs—Third 
row, four francs—Fourth row, three 

into thin white satin. 

t English patent medicines arc sold at 
No. ID, Hue Vivienne. 

Z 



338 APPENDIX. CCli. II. 

I . 


francs and sixty centimes—parquet, 
three francs and sixty centimes*. 

The prices at the Theatre Francais 
are: Balcony, and first row of boxes, 
each person six francs and sixty 
centimes—First galleries, and se¬ 
cond row of boxes, four francs, and 
forty centimes— Parterre, two francs, 
and twenty centimes. 

The Messageries Royales, or Dili¬ 
gence-Office, is in the Rue Notre- 
Dame des Victoires , No. 22: and 
from this office Diligences go pe¬ 
riodically to every town in France 
situated on the great roads. 

The Offices of the Coche d’eau de 
Haute Seine are situated on the 
Quai- Dauphin, lie S. Louis, No. 6— 
Port S. Paul, No. 8—and Rue de 
BretonvilUers, No. 1. 

Voituriers, returning from Paris 
to Switzerland and Italy, may fre¬ 
quently be met with at the Hotel de 
Toulouse, Rue Git-le-Cceur, No. 6, 
near the Pont S. Michel; and at the 
Hotel de Montauban, in the same 
street; and persons going to Switzer¬ 
land, or Italy, would of course be 
able to make a better bargain with 
these men, than with a French Voi- 
turin. 

The Voituriers belonging to Dc- 
jean, and those belonging to Emery, 
may be heard of at the Hotel de 
Toulouse; and their prices usually 
are as follow: 

For each passenger from London 
to Geneva, dinner, supper, and beds 
inclusive, twenty Louis-d’ors—From 
London to Florence, thirty-six Louis- 
d’ors—From Paris to Florence, twen¬ 
ty-six Louis-d’ors—and from Paris 
to Milan, twenty-two Louis-d’ors. 

The expense of breakfasts, and 
the gratuities to servants at inns, 
are paid by the passengers. 

Each Passenger is allowed a cwt. 
of luggage. 

GENERAL POST-OFFICE. 

The office where letters are franked, 
is opened at seven in the morning, 


during summer, and eight during 
winter. Letters for foreign Coun¬ 
tries must be franked before noon; 
and letters for France put into the 
post before two. 

The Poste-Restante is open from 
eight in the morning till seven in 
the evening. 

Letters from Great-Brilain arrive 
late on Mondays, and are delivered 
on Tuesdays; they likewise arrive 
on Thursdays. 

Letters for Great Britain go on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays, and must be franked 
to Dover. 

Letters for the hereditary domi¬ 
nions of the Emperor of Austria, and 
likewise for Austrian Italy, go on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and 
Saturdays, and must be franked. 

Letters for Spain and Portugal go 
on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and must 
be franked. 

Letters for Switzerland go on Mon¬ 
days, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sa¬ 
turdays, via Basle; on Mondays, 
"Wednesdays, and Fridays, via Po- 
rentruy; and on Tuesdays, Thurs¬ 
days, and Saturdays, to Geneva, 
Lausanne, the Valais, Sfc., and must 
be franked. 

Letters go daily, without being 
franked, to the Netherlands, Prussia, 
all the German States not belonging 
to the Emperor of Austria, Den¬ 
mark, Sweden, Russia, and Poland; 
on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur¬ 
days, to the kingdom of Sardinia; 
and on Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Saturdays, to Nice. 

Letters for Parma and Piacenza 
go on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sa¬ 
turdays, and must be franked; and 
letters for southern Italy go on the 
same days, without being franked. 

Letters and parcels of particular 
consequence are ensured, on the 
payment of double postage. Money 
likewise may be conveyed with safety 
per post, on the payment of five per 
cent. 


* Operas are represented only three times a week, namely, on Sundays, Tuesdays, and 

Fridays, 


Ch. II.] FRANCE—PASSAGE OF THE JURA-ALPS. 


All letters delivered from the Ge¬ 
neral Post-Oflice at Paris are charged 
according to their weight ,* and a sin¬ 
gle letter from Great Britain usually 
costs about fourteen sous. 

PETITE-POSTE. 

The Petite-Ponte bags are to be 
found in the Rue des Mauvaises- 
Paroles, No. 12 —the Rue des Bed- 
lets S. Antoine, No. 1— the Rue du 
Grand- Chantier, No. 7 — the Rue 
Beaurec/ard, No. 11 —the RueNeuve - 
du-Luxembourg, No. 3—the Rue de 
l erneuil, No. 20 —the Ruede Conde, 
N°. 8 and the Rue des Fosses- 
Saint- Victor, No. 35. The postage, 
per letter, is three sous in Paris, and 
tour sous in the environs ; and the 
letters are taken out of the bags, 
and distributed every two hours*. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 
THROUGH FONTAINEBLEAU AND 
DIJON. 

1 Villejuif 
If Eromenteau 
1£ Essonne 
l| Ponthiery 
1 Chailly 
1J Fontainebleau 
l A More t 
lj Eos sard 

1 Villeneuve-la-Guyard 
Pont-sur-Yonne 

Sens—A third horse, for the six win¬ 
ter months, both going and return¬ 
ing. 

If J Uleucuvc-.su j'-Yonne 
1 l illevallicr 

1 Joigny 
1.} Jlussou 

2 Auxerre—A third horse, for the six 

winter months, both going and 
returning. An extra quarter of a 
post is paid on quitting Auxerre. 

1 St. JJris — A third horse, for the six 

winter months, both going and 
returning. 

2 Vermanton 

2f Lucy-le-Bois —A third horse, for the 
six winter months, both going and 
returning. 

1 Avallon 

2 Rouvruy—A third horse, all the year, 

from Avallon to liouvray; and 
vice versa, during the six winter 
months. 

2 Maison-neuve— A third horse all the 

* Washerwomen at Paris charge nearly 
the Same price as in London; but persons 
who reside in the provincial towns of France 
may get their linen washed very reasonably. 


year from Maison-ncuve to Rou- 
vray : but not from Rouvray to 
Maison-neuve. 

2 Vitteaux 

If La Chaleur —A third horse all the 
year from Vitteaux hither, but not 
returning. 

1J Pont-de-Pany —A third horse all the 
year from this place to La Cha- 
leur, but not returning. 

2j Dijon—An extra quarter of a post is 
paid on quitting this city. 

2 Gentis 

If Auxonne —A third horse, for the six 
winter months, both going and 
returning. 

2 Dole 

Mont-sous-Vaudrey —A third horse, 
throughout the year, both going 
and returning. 

2i Poligny 

lj Montrond —A third house, throughout 
the year, going, but not returning. 

H Champagnole 

Maison-neuve (Jura)— A third horse 
all the year, both going and re¬ 
turning. 

S. Laurent (Jura)—A third horse 
all the year, both going and re¬ 
turning : a fourth horse going, hut 
not returning. 

lj Morez —A third horse all the year, 
botli going and returning. 

Les Pousses —A third and fourth horse 
all the year going, but not return¬ 
ing. 

If La Vattay 

2 Gcx —This is the last French post. A 
third and fourtli horse all the year 
from Gex to La Vattay ; but not 
returning. 

2 Geneve—A third horse throughout the 

•-year from Geneva to Gex, but not 

G4f returning. 

The price of post-horses between 
Geneva and Gex is the same as in 
Francet. 

The road through Dijon and Po¬ 
ligny to Geneva having been already 
described, I shall add nothing fur¬ 
ther on the subject except this, that 
Travellers ought not to attempt pass¬ 
ing the Jura during winter, nor very 
early in the spring, lest their pro¬ 
gress should be impeded by snow. 

ROUTE FROM LYONS TO GENEVA, 
BY CERDON AND S. GERMAIN-DE- 
JOUX. 

AUrabel 

1 Montluel 

t Sec, under Appendix, Switzerland, 
the continuation of this route, from Geneva, 
by the Simplon, to Milan. 

Z 2 


310 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


1| Meximleux 

it S. Denis — Best Inn, Le Lien d’Or. 
1 8. Jean-le-Vieux 
li Cerdon 

8. Martin-du-Fresne 
1 jNantua 

S. Germain-de-Jonx 

1 Chat i lion 
li Avunchy 
l| Coulonges 

2 8. Genix 
1 Geneve. 


19f posts. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS, THROUGH 
LYONS, TO CHAMBERY. 

29f Bourray —See the route from Paris to 
Geneva, through Dijon. 

1 Roche-en-Berny 

aS aulicu —A third horse for the six 
winter months, both going and 
returning. 

Pierre-Ecrite —A third horse all (he 
year, both going and returning. 

lj Chissey —A third horse all the year 
from Chissey to Pierre-Ecrite; but 
not returning. 

2j Autun—This town contains about 9,000 
inhabitants; and is adorned with 
two gates, The Forte a'Arroux, 
and The Porte 8. Andrt, both of 
which merit notice. Autun was 
anciently called Aiigustoduniim. 
Here are several inns, 5 but L'Ho- 
tel de la Poste is that most fre¬ 
quented. 

2 S. Emilan —A third horse all the year 

from Autun to S. Emilan; and 
vice versa for the six winter 
months. A high and steep hill. 
Country beautiful. 

1J S. Leger —A third horse all the year 
from S. Leger to S. Emilan ; but 
not returning. 

1 Bourgneuf—A third horse all the 
year, both going and returning. 

lj Chalons-sur-Saone—called, by Caesar, 
Cabillonum. This city, situated 
at the mouth of the Central Canal, 
which unites the Saone and the 
Loire, contains 12,000 inhabitants, 
and was considerably embellished 
by Napoleon : its Quay is hand¬ 
some ; and Les trois Faisons is a 
very good hotel. The Hotel de 
Pure, and the Hotel de l' Europe, 
are likewise good inns. A Coche 
d’cuu sets out daily from Chalons 
for Lyons. 


2 

n 


2 

2 


Senccey 

Tournus—A third horse both going 
and returning, for the six winter 
months. Inn, Le Sauvage, and 
good. 

8. Alhin . 

Macon—This city, anciently called Mu- 
tisco, contains 11,000 inhabitants ; 
ami is adorned with a fine Bridge, 
and a beautiful Quay, from which 
the Alps are discoverable. The 
wine of Macon is particularly ce¬ 
lebrated ; and L’Hotel de l’Eu¬ 
rope is an excellent inn. 

2 Maison-Blanclie 
If 8. Georges de Rognains 
If 8. Georges-ii-Anse 
1£ Lhnone t—A third and fourth horse all 
the year going, but not returning. 
l£ Lyon—A third and fouith horse all the 
year from Lyons to Limonest; but 
not from Limonest to Ly ons. This 
city, anciently called Lugdunum , 
said to contain 100,000 inhabitants, 
and, in point of riches, the second 
city of France, is watered by the 
rivers Phone and Safine,(anciently 
the Rhodanus and Avar,) and 
snrrounded by a beautiful country. 
Lyons was considerably embel¬ 
lished by Napoleon, to whom it 
owes its fine iron bridge. The 
Altisoum rnn tains celebrated Draw¬ 


ings, by Poussin; (the subject of 
which is the seven sacraments;) 
together with several paintings, 
among which are the last Supper, 
by Philippe de Champaigne—an 
Allegory, by Rubens—a fine Te¬ 
niers—a wild boar Hunt, by Sney- 
ders—and the Resurrection, by Le 
Drun. Here likewise are several 
antiquities; namely, three fine 
Mosaic Pavements,(one represents 
Chariot-races in a Circus,)—the 
Table on which is engraved the 
speech made by the Emperor 
Claudius Cresar in favour of Lyons 
— the Fragment of a Horse’s leg— 
sacrificial Vases, §c., which seem 
to have belonged to a temple of 
Isis—ancient Lamps—Lares—and 
ancient Armour—all found near 
the city. The Hotel de Ville, the 
public Library, and the Shops, 
merit notice; the Theatre is spa¬ 
cious and handsome, and the Quay 
of the Rhone magnificent. The 
best inns at Lyons are VHotel de 
VEurope, l’Hoteld’Provence, and 
l'Hotel da Parc*. A Diligeuce 


* This is a cheap place for permanent 
residence: but persons who wish to live 
economically, either here, or in any other 
provincial town of France, should lodge 
and board in a private house with a 
respectable French Family. Board and 
lodging for one person seldom costs 
more than thirty pounds sterling per an¬ 


num. House-rent in these towns is cheap; 
as a comfortable family-residence may 
sometimes be procured for twenty-live or 
thirty pounds per annum. Mutton and 
beef are cheap ; the former being from 
three to five pence English, the pound; 
the latter somewhat less. Bread is cheap. 
Fowls and ducks are about two shillings, 



Ch. II.] 

goes daily In four days and a half 
during summer, and in four days 
during winter, from this city to 
Turin. A Diligence goes daily to 
Marseilles; and a Coche d’eau 
three times a week to Avignon. 

The road from Rouvray to Lyons is, 
generally speaking, good. An ex¬ 
tra half-post is paid on entering, 
and a post on quitting Lyons. 

1J Broil —A third horse all the year going, 
but not returning. 

1 S. Laurent-des Mures 

lj La Verpilliere —This village contains 
a tolerable inn. 

l£ Bourgoin —A fine road from Broil 
hither. 

2 La Tour-du-Pin —This town is seated 

on the Bourbre. 

1 Gaz —Immediately beyond La Tour- 

du-Pin, on the right, lies the route 
to Grenoble. 

1| Pont - de-Beauvoisin — Frontier of 
France*. At Gningette, between 
Gaz and Pont-de-Beauvoisin, the 
Rhone, the mountains of Bugey, 
La Chartreuse, and Savoy, are all 
discoverable. Pont-de-Beauvoisin 
is situated on the Guieres. 

2 Eclielles —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning. The 
Guieres, a torrent over which a fine 
bridge has been thrown, forms the 
boundary between France and Sa¬ 
voy ; and about six miles from this 
bridge is the once terrific passage 
of La Chaille: but the present 
road being bordered with a dwarf 
wall, every appearance of dan¬ 
cer has vanished. 

Echeltes is seated on the Guieres, 
whose waters are here seen issuing 
impetuously from the mountains of 
La Chartreuse: and about five 
hundred paces beyond Echelles 
commences the celebrated Chemin 
de la Grotte , made by Charles 
Emmanuel, second Duke of Sa¬ 
voy; and so wonderfully improved 
by the Emperor Napoleon, as to 
be at this moment one of the safest 
and most magnificent roads in 
Europe. 

S. Thibault-de-Coux —A third and 
fourth horse all the year, both 
going and returning. 

Between the Chemin de la Grotte 
and S. Thibault-de-Coux the road 
traverses a lofty mountain; and 

English, the couple; and turkics from two 
to three shillings each : game also is cheap 
and plentiful. 

* Here, Travellers have to encounter a 
French Frontier Custom-house on one side 
Of the Bridge, and a Savoyard Frontier 
Custom-house on the other; the lattcl*, 
however, is not much to be dreaded : but 
the Inn, under the same roof with the 
French Custvsii-hvuse, is a dangerous sleep 4 


311 

near S. Thibault-de-Coux, at a 
short distance from the road, is a 
fine cascade, formed by a stream 
of limpid water, which falls per¬ 
pendicularly from the height of an 
hundred and twenty feet. 
l.J Chainbery—A third horse all the year, 

- both going and returning f. 

74 posts. 

Chambery, the capital of Savoy, 
is pleasantly situated in a fertile 
valley watered by the rivulets Al- 
bano andLeisse; and contains about 
10,000 inhabitants. The Academy 
des Beaux Arts, and the Promenade, 
merit notice; and the heights which 
surround this little city are covered 
with vineyards, pasturages, and fo¬ 
rests of firs. Inn, La Poste, and 
very comfortable. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO LYONS, 
THROUGH NEVERS AND MOULINS. 

Fontainebleau —See the route from 
Paris to Geneva, through Dijon. 

An extra quarter of a post is paid 
on quitting Fontainebleau every 
way, the Moret-road excepted. 

2 Nemours —This little town is well- 
placed, well-built, and watered by 
the river Loing, and the Canal of 
Briare. The new bridge is hand¬ 
some, and the inns are tolerably 
good. 

l£ La Croisiere 
1 Fontenay 
1 Puisla-Lande 
1 Montargis 
lj La Commodity 

1 Nogent-sur-Vernisson 
1£ B ussiere 

H Briare —This town has given its name 
to the Canal which forms a com¬ 
munication between the rivers 
Seine and Loire; the latter of 
which is seen, covered with ves¬ 
sels, from the hill above Briare. 

2 Neuvy-sur-Loire 
lj Cosne 

Fouilly 

l| La Charifc — pleasantly situated on 
the Loire. 

li Pougues —Here are mineral waters. 
l| Ncvers—This city (anciently Nicer • 
num ) is seated at the continence of 

ing-place ; the bed-rooms being so situated 
that all the beds are damp. There is a 
better Inn near the French Custom-house t 
and at Echelles, only two posts distant, 
the post house affords good accommoda* 
tion3. 

t See, under Api’kndiXj Italy, fhb 
continuation of this Route, from Chant* 
feery, by the Mont-Cenis, to Tttrini 


FRANCE—CHAMBERY, 8>c. 


312 


APPENDIX 


[Ch. II. 


the Nievre and the Loire, over 
the latter of which rivers there is a 
fine bridge. The Palace of the 
Dukes (f Nevers is deemed a 
beautiful specimen of Gothic ar¬ 
chitecture. The choir of the great 
Church merits notice. Principal 
inns, L’Hotel Royal, and L’Hotel 
du Lion dor. 

H Magny 

H S. Pierre-le-Moutier 
l| «y. Imbert 
lj Villeneuve 

l| Monlins—This town, situated on the 
Allier, is embellished by a magni¬ 
ficent Bridge; and contains the 
Mausoleum of Montmorency, 
who was beheaded under Louis 
XIII. It is deemed a fine piece of 
sculpture, and stands in the Col- 
Itge Royal. In the environs of 
Bressol, a village near Moulins, 
there is a considerable quantity of 
petrified wood. 

2 Bessay 

2 Varennes — About noon the famous 
mountains, called Puis de Dome 
and Mont d’or, are discoverable 
from this town. 

1^ S. Gerand— The inn here is a good 
one. 

La Patisse 
l| Droiturier 

1 A. Martin —A very high situation. The 
road near this town exhibits fine 
landscapes. 

1 La Pacaudi'ere 
li .S'. Germain I’Epinasse 
1^ Roanne —Hence to Lyons the road is 
very hilly. At Roanne the Loire 
becomes navigable. Best inns, 
L’Hotel de Flandres, and L’Ho¬ 
tel du Renard. 

1 L’Hopitul 

1 .S’. Symphorien 
li Pain-Bouchain 

Tar are —Peasants usually keep oxen 
at the foot of the mountain of Ta- 
rare, to aid carriages in ascending. 
Fine views of llie Alps between 
Tarare and Lyons. 

1 £ Arnas 

2 Salvigny 
1£ Lyon* 


Gi| posts. 


* From La Palisse to S. Gerand a third 
horse all the year going, but not returning. 
— From La Palisse to Droiturier a third 
horse all the year going, but not return¬ 
ing.—From Droiturier to S. Martin a third 
horse all the year, both going and return¬ 
ing.—From Pacaudidre to S. Martin a 
third horse all the year, going, but not re¬ 
turning.—From Pacaudidre to S. Germain 
a third horse all the year, both going and 
returning.—From Roanne to S. Sympho- 
rien a third horse all the year, both going 


ROUTE FROM LYONS, THROUGH 
AVIGNON AND AIX, TO NICE. 

1 S. Pons 

1 S. Symphorien d’Ozon —A third and 

fourth horse all the year, both 
going and returning. 

IJ- Vienne—A third and fourth horse all 
the year, both going and returning. 
An extra quarter of a post is paid 
on entering, and on quitting 
Vienne. This city contains seve¬ 
ral antiquities; among which are 
an Amphitheatre almost entire ; 
the ruins of a triumphal Arch, 
erected in honour of Augustus, 
and a Temple adorned with co¬ 
lumns thirty feet inheightt. 

The wine called Cote-rotie, is made 
near Vienne. 

2 Auberive —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning. 

1 Pcage de Roussillon —A third horse 
for the six winter months, both 
going and returning. 

S. Rambert 

li <S’. Vallier —This town, seated at the 
continence of the Galaure and the 
Rhone, contains a good inn. 

IJ Tain —celebrated for red and white 
wine, called Hermitage. 

2j Valence—A third horse for the six 
winter months, both going and re¬ 
turning. 

Valence, called Valenlia by the 
Romans, contains a University, 
and an edifice, now made into a 
Church, which is supposed to have 
been originally built by the Ro¬ 
mans. Pius VI. died here. Best 
inn. The Post-House. 

li La Paillasse 

l|- Loriol 

1 * Derlucres 

l|- Montelimart— The Post-house here 
is one of the best provincial inns 
on the Continent. 

2 Donzere —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning, 'ibis 
town contains a good inn; and the 
wines of the neighbourhood arc 
excellent. 

2 La Palud —A third horse throughout 
the year from La Palud to Don- 

zdre. 


and returning.—From S. Symphorien to 
Pain-Bouchain a third horse all the year, 
going, but not returning.—From Tarare to 
Pain-Bouchain a third horse all the year 
going, but not returning.—From Arnas to 
Salvigny a third horse all the year, both 
going and returning. 

+ Pontius l’ilate, after having been de¬ 
prived of the office of Procurator of Judea, 
on account of his malpractices, and ba¬ 
nished to Vienne, died there, by his own 
hands. 



343 


FRANCE—AVIGNON—AIX, Sfc. 


Ch. II.] 

1 J Mornas —A third horse, throughout 
the year, both going and return¬ 
ing. 

1 2 Orange —remarkable for a triumphal 

Arch , erected in honour of Ma¬ 
rius and Catulus, and almost en¬ 
tire. 

2 Sorgues —A third horse, throughout 
the year, both going and return- 
ing. 

la Avignon—This city, seated on the left 
bank of the Rhone, and built in 
the Italian style, was anciently 
called Avenio: it contains 23,000 in¬ 
habitants, and a considerable num¬ 
ber of handsome edifices; the 
most striking of which is the Ca¬ 
thedral. The ci-devant Church 
of the Cordeliers contains the 
1'oihb of Laura. The Hotel d'Eu¬ 
rope is one of the best inns France 
can boast; and The Hotel de 
Petrarque et Laura , between 
Avignon and Vaucluse, is cele¬ 
brated by Travellers for its din¬ 
ners, consisting of excellent trout 
and other fish. 

The Fountain of Vaucluse is within 
a few miles of Avignon. 

2.1 1 S'. Andiol —Between this place and 
Avignon a fine wooden bridge has 
been lately thrown over the Du¬ 
rance, anciently JJruentia ; a ra¬ 
pid river, which Travellers were 
formerly compelled to cross in a 
ferry, sometimes at the risk of 
their lives. 

1 3 Orgon —The inn here is good. 

2 Font-Royal —The country, from S. 
Andiol hither, is, generally speak¬ 
ing, Hat and uninteresting. 

2 S. Canat 

2 Aix—A third horse, throughout the 
year, both going and returning. 
The two last stages are hilly. 

Aix, anciently called Aqua-Sextice, 
and the capital of Provence, stands 
in a spacious plain, watered by the 
Arc, is handsomely built in the 
Italian style, and contains 23,700 
inhabitants. The mineral Waters 
and hot Baths here, have long 
been celebrated. The Cathedral 
merits notice; as that part called 
La Rotondo, is adorned with co¬ 
lumns which once belonged to a 
Temple of Vesta; and the Col¬ 
lege-Chapel is embellished with 
an Annunciation, and a Visitation, 
by Puget. 

This is a cheap town for permanent 
residence: its best inns are, IS Ho¬ 
tel du Cours, ISHotel des 
Princes, and La Mule Blanche. 

An extra half-post is paid on quit¬ 
ting Aix. 

* The distance, according to the French 
Post-book, is four posts from Antibes to 
IS ice; but the Italian Post-books call it 


1| Bannettes 

l| La Grande Pag'ere 

2| Tourves —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. Be¬ 
tween La Grande-Pugthe and 
Tourves there is a steep hill; and 
the whole road from Aix to the 
last-named Post is at times rough 
and rotten. 

1| Brignolles —This town is pleasantly 
situated between the rivers Caran- 
cin and Issdle. A third horse, dur¬ 
ing the six winter months, both to 
go and return. 

1| Flass an s —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

1 Luc —A third horse all the year, both 

going and returning. The road 
from Brignolles hither is good. 
The country' abounds with olives, 
vineyards, and corn. 

lj Vidaubah 

1;| Muy —A third horse all the year, both 
going and returning. 

2 Frejus —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning. 

Frejus, called by the Romans Fo¬ 
rum Julii, still exhibits vestiges 
of its ancient splendour ; namely, 
one Arch of the Port made by 
Cresar, and the ruins of an Aque¬ 
duct, &c.: but what must always 
render this town memorable is, 
that Napoleon landed here, on his 
return from Egypt; embarked 
here, when banished to Elba ; and 
landed again, not far hence, after 
quitting that Island. 

The country round Frejus is magni¬ 
ficently wooded. 

2 Lestrelles —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning. The 
mountains from which the last- 
mentioned Post derives its name 
may almost vie in height with the 
Alps ; and are richly clothed with 
myrtles, arbuti, and a great va¬ 
riety of other flow'ering shrubs. 
These mountains exhibit beautiful 
scenery. 

3 Cannes —A third horse all the year, 

both going and returning. This is 
the precise spot where Napoleon 
landed in 1S15. 

2 Antibes —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

Antibes, anciently called Antipolis, 
and celebrated for the elegance of 
its Port, which is adorned with 
circular arcades, somewhat in the 
style of the ancient Port of Ostia, 
likewise contains Ruins of an Am¬ 
phitheatre. 

4* A third horse all the year. 


G6J posts. 

only 2j posts. — Sec, under Appendix, 
Italy, the continuation of this Route 
from Nice to Genoa. 



344 


APPENDIX. 


The country between Antibes and 
Nice is an extensive plain near 
the Mediterranean sea, embellished 
with hedges of pomegranates, 
myrtles, and aloes; and watered 
by the Yar, which divides France 
from the dominions of the King 
of Sardinia. Travellers going to 
Nice were formerly obliged to ford 
the Var, an operation which was 
always unpleasant, and often dan¬ 
gerous; but a long wooden bridge 
is now thrown over that torrent. 

ROUTE FROM LYONS TO AVIGNON, 
BY WATER*. 

Families who wish to descend the 
Rhone from Lyons to Avignon, may 
either take the Coche (Teau to 
themselves for ten Louis d’ors, 
or perhaps less, the expense of 
putting a carriage on board, and 
disembarking it at Avignon inclu¬ 
sive ; or they may, for the same 
price, hire a private boat. We 
pursued the latter plan; and, quit¬ 
ting Lyons about noon, arrived be¬ 
fore six in the evening at Cordreuil; 
where we slept. The views on each 
side of the river, between Lyons 
and Cordreuil, are beautiful. The 
second day we left the last-named 
place about nine in the morning, 
and were presented with views even 
finer than on the preceding day. A 
magnificent chain of lofty rocks 
clothed with vineyards, and crowned 
with ruins of ancient castles, formed 
the great features of the landscape; 
while, here and there, a small vil¬ 
lage, at the water’s edge, and some¬ 
times a large town in a valley be¬ 
tween the hills, added to the rich¬ 
ness of the scenery. Deserted Cha¬ 
teaux, and Convents, placed on the 
pinnacles of craggy rocks, presented 
themselves at every turn of the 
river; while the rocks frequently 
appeared in such wild and extraordi¬ 
nary shapes, that one might easily 
have mistaken them for castles with 
giants striding on their battlements. 
No words, however, can do jus¬ 
tice to this scenery; which is 
rendered doubly beautiful by the 

* The road from Lyohs to Avignon add 
Marseilles being frequently ill bad Condi* 


[Ch. II. 

immense breadth, peculiar clear¬ 
ness, and great rapidity of the 
Rhone. About four o’clock we ar¬ 
rived at Valence; which commands 
a distant view of the Alps, and 
stands directly opposite to a pictu¬ 
resque rock, crowned by the remains 
of a castle. We slept at the Post- 
House, a tolerably good inn, though 
too far from the water. The third 
day we quitted Valence at nine in 
the morning; and found the rocks 
increase in magnitude, and the pro¬ 
spect of the Alps grow more and 
more sublime as we proceeded. 
Early in the afternoon we came in 
sight of the Pont S. Esprit; and 
passed under the middle arch, with¬ 
out experiencing, in consequence, 
any disagreeable sensation. This 
celebrated bridge, three thousand 
feet in length, is built with con¬ 
summate skill and beautiful sim¬ 
plicity. 

The inn at S. Esprit is good. 
The fourth day we left this town at 
eight in the morning, and arrived at 
Avirjnon about twelve. There are. 
two castles, opposite to each other, 
not far from the Pont S. Esprit, 
which form a picturesque view. On 
approaching Avignon we found the 
country flat, and the prospects less 
pleasing than before. 

ROUTE FROM AVIGNON TO NISMES 
AND MONTPELLIER. 

2j La B'cgude de Saze —A third horse 
all the year, both going and re¬ 
turning. 

2^ La Foux —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

1£ S. Gervasy —A third horse all the 
year, both going and returning. 

1J Nismes —This city, anciently called 
Nemausus, and said to contain 
40,000 inhabitants, is adorned with 
handsome modern buildings; but 
more particularly worth seeing on 
account of its Amphitheatre, and 
several other monuments of anti¬ 
quity ; one of which, called La 
Maison Quarrce, and supposed 
to have been a Corinthian Temple, 
erected by the people of Nismes 
about the year of Home 754, in 

tion, It i9 advisable for Travellers to go 
down ths Rhone, if possible 


315 


FRANCE—MONTPELLIER—TOULON, 8fc. 


Ch. II.J 

honour of Cuius and Lucius, sons 
of Agrippa, is in high preserva¬ 
tion. Here, likewise, are remains 
of an ancient Pharos. Best inns, 
Le Louvre , and Le Luxem¬ 
bourg. 

The Fountain of Aismes has long 
been celebrated; and the Pont-de- 
Garde, a Roman Aqueduct, (attri¬ 
buted to Agrippa), 174 Paris feet 
in height, and 728 in length, is not 
quite four leagues distant from this 
city, and well worth notice. 

If Uchau —An extra quarter of a post is 
paid from Nismes hither. 

1 | Lunel— celebrated for its wines. 

1£ Colombi'cres 

If Montpellier—This town, anciently call¬ 
ed Agathopolis, and supposed to 
contain 33,000 inhabitants, has long 
been famed for its climate ; which, 
though unfavourable to weak lungs, 
is in other respects salubrious. 
Rain seldom falls here : snow and 
fogs are equally uncommon; but 
the marin, or sea-wind, produces 
damp: and the vent de bise, which 
continually visits Montpellier, is of 
all winds the most piercing*. The 
principal hotels are Le Cheval 
Blanc, VHotel die Midi, Le 
Petit Paris, and Le Luxem¬ 
bourg : but persons who purpose 
to reside any length of time at 
Montpellier should hire a ready- 
furnished apartment, and have their 
dinner from a Traiteur. Here 
are a Theatre, an Aqueduct, and 
several pleasant promenades. Mont¬ 
pellier and Grasse are famous for 
the best perfumes in France. 

The Mason-Spider is an extraordi¬ 
nary insect, which Naturalists re¬ 
port to be found only near Mont- 

- pellier. 

14f posts. 

ROUTE FROM AIX TO MARSEILLES 
AND TOULON. 

2 Le Grand-Pin —An extra quarter of a 
post is paid on quitting Aix. A 
third horse all the year, both going 
and returning. 

2 Marseille—Between Le Grand-Pin and 
Marseilles, and about half a league 
from the latter, is one of the finest 
views in France. 

Marseilles, anciently called Masilia, 
and one of the largest and safest 
Ports of the Mediterranean, is sup¬ 
posed to contain 111,150 inhabit- 

* The vent de bise prevails so much, in 
all the southern part of France, as to render 
the climate prejudicial to consumptive per¬ 
sons: and beside this objection to the 
ttbyvs’tlicttiionfed CvUntry, there is another, 


ants. The Cathedral, a very an¬ 
cient edifice, is adorned with the 
works of Puget: and La Consigne 
contains a celebrated representa¬ 
tion of the Plague, by the same 
master. The Arsenal merits notice. 
The Theatre is one of the hand¬ 
somest in France; and the Lazza- 
retto one of the finest in Europe. 
The principal inns are L’Hotel des 
Ambassadeurs, Rue Beauveau ; 
La Croix de Malte, Rue des 
Pucelles ; L’Hotel des Etnpe- 
reurs, Rue Stiffren; L*Hotel 
d’Europe, Rue de Pavilion; 
JJHotel a*Franklin, Rue Beau¬ 
veau ; L’Hotel de Pologne, Rue 
Thyar ; and L’ Hotel des Princes, 
Rue Canebicre. The Quay, and the 
environs of Marseilles are beau¬ 
tiful ; but this town, during sum¬ 
mer, is much infested by mosqui¬ 
toes. An extra half post is paid ou 
quitting Marseilles. 

2 Aubagne 
l£ Cujes 

2 Bcausset —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

2 Toulon—A third horse, during the six 
winter-months, from Toulon to 

- Bcausset, but not returning. 

11J posts. 

Toulon is supposed to contain 
26,000 inhabitants. The Ports, the 
Marine-Arsenal, the Hotel de Ville, 
adorned with two colossal Carya¬ 
tides, by Puget, a ceding in the 
house he once occupied, represent¬ 
ing the Fates, the Military-Arsenal, 
the Lassaretto, and the Cathedral, 
are the objects best worth notice in 
this city. 

Near Toulon is the small town of 
Hyeres, opposite to some Islands of 
the same name (anciently called the 
Stcechcules), and about one league 
distant from the Sea. This town is 
so much and so justly celebrated for 
the excellence of its climate during: 
winter, that Valetudinarians are sent 
hither from all parts of France ; but 
during the summer months it is par¬ 
ticularly unwholesome. Oranges, 
lemons, and pomegranates, grow 
most luxuriantly at Hyeres in the 
natural ground •, and sugar canes are 

of almost equal magnitude, namely, tlife 
natives still retain the character given them 
by Horace: 

“ No claque rebus Infidelh AllofowP 


316 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


said to do so likewise, when properly 
cultivated. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX 
AND BAYONNE. 

If Croix dc Bernis 
1 Lonjrnneau 
If Arpdjon 
If Estrechy 
1 Etampes 

1 Montdesir 
11 Anger ville 
If Tonry 

1f Artenay 
1"" Chevilly 

If Orleans—This city (anciently Aureli- 
ani) contains about 40,000 inhabit¬ 
ants*. The great Church me¬ 
rits observation, and the environs 
are delightful. The Fauxbourg 
d’Olivet communicates with the 
city by a Bridge which is much 
celebrated. Orleans is embellished 
with a University, an Academy of 
Sciences, and a public library. 
The Hotel de Ville contains a por¬ 
trait of the Maid of Orleans. An 
extra half-post is paid on quitting 
Orleans, and on entering, by the 
the way of Ferte S. Aubin. 

2f Forte. S. Aubin 

2 Motte-Beuvron 

1 Nouart 

2 Salbris 

1 f La Logo 

2 Vierzon —A small, but ancient town. 
1| ft!assay 

.2 Vatan 
If Epinc-Fauveau 

2 Chateauroux—This town is situated in 
an extensive and beautiful plain. 
Best inn, S. Catherine . 

2 Loftier 
If Argent on 
2 Fay 

2 f Ville-au-Brun 
2f Monterol 
2 Chantcloube 
2 Maison-ronge 

If Limoges—This city (anciently called 
Lemovices) contains 20,000 in¬ 
habitants. The ci-devant Abbey of 
•S'. Martial is interesting on ac¬ 
count of its antiquity. Best inn, 
!,’ Hotel de Perigord. An extra 
quarter of a post is paid on quitting 
Limoges. 

If Aixe 
l| Gatinaud 
If Chains 
If La Coquille 

* Orleans is a remarkably cheap town 
for permanent residence. 

f Third horse throughout the year at 
every post, both going and returning, be¬ 
tween Orleans and Argcnton. 

A third horse throughout the year from 


2 Thiviers 
If Palis sons 
l| Tavernes 

1 f Perigueux—This city (anciently called 

Pretrocorii ) is famed for delicfhus 
meat-pies. Here are some Roman 
Antiquities —and near the town is 
a Fountain, remarkable for the 
daily flux and reflux of its waiters. 
Best inn, L’Hotel de France. 

2f Massoulie 

2 Mucidan 
2 Mont-pont 
2 A'. Mddard 
2f Libonrne 
If S. Pardoux 
2 Carbon-blanc 

2 Bordeaux—An extra half-post is paid 
from Carbon-blanc hither. 

Bordeaux (anciently called Bur- 
digalaj, one of the largest, richest, 
and handsomest cities in France, 
is seated on the Garonne, and 
supposed to contain 99,000 in¬ 
habitants. The objects best worth 
notice are— the Cathedral , adorned 
withtwoextraordinary bassi-relievi- — 
the Exchange—the Church ci-devant 
Chartreux- Convent—the Theatre —• 
the Quays —and the remains of Ro- 
man Antiquities. The wines of Bor¬ 
deaux are excellent. Best inn, Lc 
Marechal de Richelieu. 

If Bouscant —An extra half-post is paid 
on quitting Bordeaux. 

If Cast res 
If Cerons 
If Langon 
2 Bazas 
2f Captieux 
2 ~ Poteau 
2f Roquefort 
If Caloy 

If Mont-de-Marsan 
If Campagne 
2 Tartas 
if Pontons 
If «V. Paul-lcs Dax 
2 S. Gcours 
2 Cantons 
2 Ondres 

If Bayonne—This town is finely situated 
at the confluence of the ftivc 
and the Adour. The Cathedral 
is a venerable edifice. Travelling- 
beds may be purchased at Bayonne. 

-- Best inn, .S'. Etienne. 

109f posts f. 

Argenton to Fay, but not returning. 

A third horse all the year between Fay 
and »S. Pardoux, both going and returning. 

A third horse for the six winter-months, 
both going and returning, between Bordeaux 
and Langon. ^ 


Ch. II.] 


FRANCE—BREST-DUNKIRK. 


317 


ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BREST. 

2^ Versailles— An extra half post is paid 
on quitting this town. 

2 J Pont-chartrain 
lj ha Queue 
Id Iloudan 
1 Marolle 

U Dreux —Memorable for the battle of 
1552, under Charles IX. 

1 -1 Nonancourt 
1' Tillieres 

lj Verne nil —Memorable for the battle 
of 1424. 

2 .S'. Maurice 
2 f Mart ague 

2 Le Mcle-sur-Sarlhe 
lj Mbnilbroust 

lg Alen^on—An extra quarter of a post 
is paid on quitting this town. 

14 S. Denis stir Barton 
H Prez-en-Pail 
2 Bibay 
2 } Mayenne 
2 Martigne 

2 Laval—This town contains 15,000 inha¬ 
bitants ; there are quarries of jasper 
in its vicinity. Best inn, Le 
Louvre. 

2£ Grave lie 

2 Vitro—This is a considerable town. 

2 Chute au-bourg 
\h Noyal 

l|- Rennes—This city (anciently called 
Bedones ) is supposed to contain 
about 29,000 inhabitants. The 
Place-Royale — The Palais de 
Justice —and The Hotel de Villc, 
merit notice. Best inns, Le Tour 
d' Argent, and IJHotel de France. 
1£ Pace 
U Be dee 
l| Montauban 
S. Jean 

1 Broons 
Langoubdre 

2 Lamballe 

2j S. Brieux—This town has a good Port. 
2 Ohatelaudren 
ll Gain gamy 
if Bois-mormant 

1 Bellisle-en-tbrrc 
2} Pontou 

2 Morlaix—The Church of N. D. dcs 

Mers is a singular edifice; the 
Hospital is a fine one, and the 
Port considerable. L'Hotel d’Eu- 
rope is a good inn. 

1 ’ S. Egonec 

1 Landivisiau 

2 Landerneau 

A third horse all the year, both going and 
returning, between Langon and Captieux. 

A third and fourth horse all the year, 
both going and returning, between Cap¬ 
tieux and Potcau. 

A third horse all the year, both going and 
returning, between Poteau and Roquefort. 
A third horse all the year, both going and 


Guipava 

1 Brest*—An extra half-post is paid on en- 
— tering this town, and on quitting it. 

75\ posts. 

Brest, anciently called Privates, is 
supposed to contain 27,000 inhabi¬ 
tants; and its Harbour, one of the 
satest in Europe, is sufficiently ca¬ 
pacious to admit five hundred ships 
of war. The Quays, the Arsenal, 
and the Theatre particularly merit 
notice. The principal hotels are. 
La grande Maison; Le grand Mo- 
narque; La Tour Argentj and Le 
grand Turc. 

Another road from Brest to Paris, 
through Lamballe, Del, Maienne, and 
Alenpon, is five posts shorter than 
the road already described. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO DUN¬ 
KIRK. 

l£ Bourgct 
lg Louvres 
U Chapelle-en-scrval 
1 Senlis 

Pont S. Maxence 
l.j Bois-de-Lihus 
l| Gour nay 
1 Cuvilly 
1 Conchy les-Pots 
U Boye 
1 Fonches 

1 Marche-le-pot 
I5 Peronne 

2 Fins 

lj Bon-A vis 
1Carnbray 
14 Bac-Aubencheul 
It Douay 
2| Pont-d-Marcq 
li Lille 

2 Armentieres 
1.} Bailieul 
2£ Cassel 
2^ Berg-S. TVinox 
1 Dunkerque. 


38^ posts. 

Dunkirk, so called from ori¬ 
ginally containing the Kirk of the 
Duns, is supposed to have 21,200 
inhabitants. The houses are built 
with uniformity, the front of the 

returning, and a fourth horse going, but not 
returning, from Caloy to Mont-de-Marsan. 

A third and fourth horse throughout the 
ear, both going and returning between 
Jont-de-Marsan and Bayonne. 

* Post-masters are allowed to put on a 
third horse at almost every stage between 
Montague and Brest. 



348 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


church of S. Eloi merits notice, and 
the Quay is a fine one. The best 
inns are. The Post-house; The Hotel 
tV Angleterre ; The Hotel du Sauvage , 
and The Hotel du Nord *. 

ROUTE FROM LILLE TO OSTEND, 
THROUGH YPRES. 

2 Warneton 

2 Ypres—The Church of S. Martin — 

and the Canal of Bosingen, me¬ 
rit notice. 

2-2 Dixmu.de 

3 Ostende—See (under Appendix, 

German y) the route from Vienna 
through Ratisbon and Brussels to 

- Ostend. 

V% posts. 

ROUTE FROM LILLE TO BRUSSELS. 

1J Pont-u-Tressain 
i£ Tournay 
2 Leuse 
Ath 

1A Enghien 
if Hall 

]£ Bruxelles—See (under Appendix, 
Germany) the route from Vienna, 
through Ratisbon and Brussels, to 

- Ostend. 

11 posts. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO OSTEND, 
THROUGH BRUSSELS. 

l£ Bourget 
2 Mesnil-Amelot 

1 Daininartin —This place commands a 

fine view, and the ruins of the 
Castle are picturesque. 

If Nanteuil-Haudouin 
14 Levignen 

2 Villers-Cotterelz 
li Vcrte-Feuille 

if Soissons—Anciently called Suessiones. 
The great Church, and the vi¬ 
de van t Abbey of S. Medard, 
where Louis le Debonnaire was 
confined by his children, merit no¬ 
tice. The environs of this city arc 
charming. An extra half-post is 
paid on quitting Soissons. 

2 Vourains 

2 Laon —Prettily situated on the summit 
of a hill. 

2\ Marie 
1J Verrins 

* From Dunkerque to Paris, through 
Calais , Boulogne, and Amiens, is 39 posts ; 
and through S, Omer, Arras, and Pc- 
fonne, 37 posts. 

t Persons who go from Brussels to Pa* 
ris, through Genappe, Valenciennes, 
Mons, Cambray, and S. Quentin, should 
visit at the l<tst*»iamtd town, the Tunnel 
cut through solid rock", and passing three 


2 La Capclle 
2 Avesnes 

2 Maubeuge — When Travellers are 
obliged to send for horses to Don* 
zies, they pay, in consequence, an 
extra half-post. 

2 Mons—The famous battle of Genappe, 
which took place in 1792, was 
fought near Mons —The Castle — 
and the Abbey de ll'autru , me¬ 
rit notice. 

1 Cast erne 

1 J Brainele-Comte 

2 Halle 

lj Bruxelles—There is another road, in 
distance 34g posts from Brussels to 
Paris, through Valenciennes. P.oth 
roads are chietly paved, and tole¬ 
rably good ; though in some places 
they want repair t. 

A sche 
if A lost 
lj Quadregt 

1 Gaud 

2 Alteren 
2 Bruges 
2 Ostende. 


4GJ posts. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS, THROUGH 
REIMS AND SEDAN, TO LIEGE. 

12J Soissons—Sec the route from Faris, 
through Brussels to Ostend. 

Braine 
l£ Fi sines 
1 ^ Jonchery 

2 Reims—This town is said to have 30,000 
inhabitants. The great Church 
is a fine Gothic structure, with a 
beautiful front. The. Church of 
>S. Nicholas, the Place-Boy ale, 
and some remains of Roman An¬ 
tiquities, merit notice. At Cour- 
tagnon and Meri, in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Reims, a large num¬ 
ber of fossils are continually dis¬ 
covered. An extra quarter of a 
post is paid on quitting Reims. 

2 Isle 
2.1 Bethel 
14 Vauxellcs 
li Launoy 

2-f Mezicrcs—An extra quarter of a post 
is paid on quitting this town. A 
third horse all the year between 
Relhcl and Launoy, and Launoy 
and Mezieres. 

2 j Sedan—Here is a good Arsenal and a 

miles under ground, to facilitate the inland 
navigation from Cambray to the capital. 
This Tunnel, one of the most patriotic 
works of Napoleon, is well ventilated, 
lighted by means of lamps, and usually pro¬ 
vided with water about six feel deep. It 
admits one barge only at a time, towed by 
men, who have (t commodious gnllety ib 
Vralh im 





Ch. II.] 


F R A NCE—STR A SBU R G11. 


319 


Cannon-Fonndery. The great Tu- 
renne was bom at Sedan. Best 
inns, La Croix d’Or, and Le Ca¬ 
lais Royal. 

3 Paliseux 
2& Telin 
2 Marche 
2 Bouzin 
2 Nandrin 

2 Liege—See (under Appendix, Geh- 
many,) the route from Brussels, 
45 through Aix-la-Chapelle and Liege, 
to Spa. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO STR AS BURG II, 
THROUGH CIIALONS-SUR-MARNE, 
S. DIZIER, BAR-LE-DUC, NANCY, 
LUNEVILLE, PI1ALZBOURG, AND 
SAVERNE. 

lj Bondy —This town gives its name to 
the neighbouring forest. 

1 Vert-Gulund 

1 C'laye —Between Paris and Meaux is a 

plain, famed for the retreat of the 
Swiss, in 1507,under Pfyffer, who 
escorted Charles IX., Catherine de 
Medicis, and the ladies of her court, 
in safety to Paris, by cutting his 
way through the army of their ene¬ 
mies. 

2 Meaux —This town stands in a beauti¬ 

ful plain, watered by the Marne, 
and was the first place which de¬ 
serted the party of the League, 
and submitted to Henry IV. Over 
one of the gates are these words : 
Henricum prima agnovi. Good 
cheeses are made at Meaux. Best 
inns, La S'irene, and La Croix 
a’Or. 

1] S. Jean 

l~ La Fertc-sous-Joiuirre—A small town 
embellished with pretty walks. 

2 La Ferme-de-Paris 
1] Chdteau Tkivry —The birth-place of 
La Fontaine. 

1 Paroy 
1.] Dormans 
1 Port-il-B bison 
1 La Cave 

1 Epernay — Famed for its wines. 

2 Jda Ions 

1 Mastogne 

1 Chalons-sur-Marne— The. Hotel de 
t itle, the Great Church, and the 
Jard, are the objects best worth 
notice.' Near this city Attila was 
defeated by the Franks and llo- 
mans. Best inns, La Pomme 
d’Or; Le Palais-Royal; La 
Croix d’Or; and La Ville de 
Nancy. An extra quarter of a 
post is paid on quilting this town. 

* A third horse all the year between 
Epernay and Jaalons. 

J)o. between S. Dizier and Saudrupt. 
Do. between Saudrupt and Bar-le-Duc. 
Do. between Ligny and S. Aubin, 


1 Che pi 
1 La Chausie 
1 S. Amend 

1 Vitry-le-Frangais —Built by Francisl. 

2 Jjongchamp 

S. Dizier —Here the Marne becomes 
navigable. 

Saudrupt 

H Bar-le-duc—Famous for sweetmeats, 
trout, and excellent wine. 

2 Ligny 
1 S. A ubin 
14 Void 
1) l.aye 

1£ Tout—The principal Church merits 
notice. The wines of Toul are 
good. 

1J Velaine 

1 \ Nancy—This fine city suffered cruelly 

from a battalion of Republicans, 
w ho passed through it in 1792, and 
destroyed all the chefs-d’oeuvres 
of art they unfortunately met w ith. 
The Place-Koyale merits notice, 
as do the Tombs of the ancient 
Dukes of Lorrain, in the ci- 
devant Franciscan Church. The 
Cloister of the Franciscans au 
bon sccours contains the grave of 
king Stanislaus, the great embel¬ 
lisher of this city. The Theatre is 
pretty, and the IloLcl de petit 
Paris and the Hotel Royal aie 
the principal inns. An extra 
quarter of a post is paid on quit¬ 
ting Nancy. 

2 Dombasle 
1J Luneville 
lj Rena me nil 
2 Blamont 

2 Iteming 

1 Sarrebourg —Here the Sarre becomes 
navigable. 

I Hoinmartin 
l Phalsbourg 

l£ Saverne —The road over the mountain 
of Saverne is much celebrated, and 
does honour to human industry. 

Wasselonne 
l| Ittenlieim 
l| Strasbourg. 

GO*- posts*. 

Strasburgh (anciently called Aryen- 
toratum,) contains 50,000 inhabi¬ 
tants. The objects best worth no¬ 
tice in this city are— The Munster , 
and its famous Tower — the Church 
of S. Thomas, which contains the 
Mausoleum of Marshal Saxe, by 
Pigale— the Arsenal and Cannon- 
Foundery—the public Granaries — 

Do. between Velaine and Nancy. 

Do. between Blamont and Homing. 

Do. between Saverne and Wasselonne. 

A third horse, during the six winter 
months, between lttemheim and Strasburgh. 


APPENDIX. 


350 

the Foundling-Hospital—the Hos¬ 
pital Bourgeois—the Observatory — 
the Matson de Ville — the Citadel — 
the Bridge over the Rhine—and the 
Public Library, which is open on 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. 
Here is an Academie de musique, a 
French, and a German Theatre. The 
Ville de Lyon is a good inn ; as are 
the Hotels de V Esprit, de la Fleur, 
la Matson Rouge, &e. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO STRAS- 
BURGH, THROUGH TROVES, LAN- 
GRES, VEZOUL, BEFORT, AND 
BASLE. 

1 Charenton 
If Grosbais 

\ Brie-ComteRobert 

2 Gnignes 

1 Mormant 
If Nttngis 

If Maison-rouge 
if Provins 

2 Nogent-siir-Seine 
1 Pont-sur-Seiue 
If Granges 

If Grbz 

2f Troyes— This city is supposed to con¬ 
tain about 27,000 inhabitants. The 
Cathedral — the ( hurch of S. 
Etienne— and the C’hdteau (once 
the residence of the Counts of 
Champagne,) are the objects best 
worth a Traveller’s attention. The 
water here is scarcely drinkable. 
An extra half-post is paid on quit¬ 
ting Troyes. 

2} Montiirame 
1* Yandauvre 

2f Bar-sur-Aube — Celebrated for its 
wines. 

Colombey 

1 Suzennecourt. 

2 Chaumont—'The front of the College 

Church is admired. Best inn, La 
Fontaine. 

2 Vesaignes 

2 Langres —This is the highest-situated 
town in France. Several Roman 
Antiquities have been found here. 
The mineral waters of Bonr- 
bonne-les-Bains are only seven 
leagues distant from Langres, 

If Griffonottes 
If Fay-Billot 
if Cintrey 

if Combeau-Fontaine 
If Pant-sur-Saone 

If Vezoul—Celebrated for its wines. Prin- 
cipal inns, Les Diligences ; L'AU 
gle Noir ; La Tele d’Or. At 


[Ch. IT. 

Letigne, a village to the east of 
Vezoul, there is a famous Grotto. 
The mineral waters of Luxeul 
arc only six leagues from Vezoul. 
If Calmoutier 

2 Lure —This town is peculiarly situated 
on an island formed by a pond, 
and surrounded with woods and 
mountains. 

2 f Champagney 

2 Bcforl —A strong town. Principal 
inns, Ee Luxembourg ; La Yille 
de Versailles; Le Suuvage. 

2 Chavanes 
2 Alt kirk 
2 Trois-Maisons 

2 Basle* — Frontier-town of Switzer¬ 
land. (See (under Appendix, 
Germany,) the route from Augs- 
burgh to Constance, Scbaffhausen 
and Basle. Travellers ought to 
avoid arriving late at night here, 
lest the gates of the town should 
be shut. 

1 -S'. Louis-sous-Huningue 
If Gros-Kempt 

2 Bantzenhcim 
If Fessenheim 

If Neuf-Bristtck —Built by Louis XIV. 

The Post-house is out of the town. 

2 Markolsheim 
2f Friesenheim 
If Kraft 

2 Strasbourg—You drive through the 

- beautiful plains of Alsace, and dis- 

74f cover, at a great distance, the Mun- 

ster-Tower of Strasburgh. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BESAN^ON, 
THROUGH LANGRES. 

3-lf to Langres —See “ Route from Paris 
to Strasburgh, through Troyes.” 

If Lonjeau 

3 Champlitle 

2£ Gray —A pretty town. Principal inns. 
La t'ille de Lyon, and Le Cha¬ 
peau rouge. 

If Bonboillon 
If Recologne 
2 Besancon. 


47 posts. 

Besancon, anciently called Veson- 
tio, is a large and handsome town, 
seated on the Doubs, and possessing 
a strong Citadel, erected on a rock 
by Louis xiv. Here are several re¬ 
mains ot antiquity; the most inte¬ 
resting of which are, an Amphithea¬ 
tre of an hundred and twenty feet in 
diameter; a triumphal Arch, and 
the ruins of a Temple. Principal 
inns, L Hotel National , and VHotel 


* Persons who like water-parties should, if possible, go down the Rhine to Strasburgh. 



35] 


FRANCE-GRENOBLE—TOULOUSE. 


Ch. II.] 

des Anciens Sauvages. The environs 
of this town are picturesque; and 
contain celebrated warm Baths. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO GRENOBLE. 

Go£ To Lyon —See the route from Paris to 
Lyons, by Auxerreand Aiitun. 

If Bron* 

l .S'. Laurent-des-MiXres 
1J Verpilliere 
l .l Bourgoin 

1 i Eclose 

2 La Frdle 
If Rites 

If Voreppe 
2 Grenoble 

74 posts. 

This city seated on the Isere, and 
anciently called Gratianopolis , is 
supposed to contain 30,000 inha¬ 
bitants. The objects best worth 
notice are— the General-Hospital — 
the great Church—the Arsenal —and 
a hronxe Hercules, which adorns one 
of the Promenades. The seven Won¬ 
ders in the environs of Grenoble, 
(which, by-the-by, do not quite de¬ 
serve their name), are— La Tour 
sans venin—La Fontaine-ardente — 
La Montagne inaccessible—Les Cures 
de Sassenage—Les Pierres ophtal- 
miques de Sassenage—La Marine de 
Briancon —and La Grotte de N. D. 
de la Balrne f. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO PERPIGNAN, 
THROUGH TOULOUSE. 

4Of Limoges —See the route from Paris to 
Bordeaux. 

* A third horse all the 3 car from Lyons 
to Bron ; but not returning. 

Do. from Bourgoin to Eclosse; but not 
returning. 

Between Eclosse and La Frete, a third 
horse during the six winter months, both 
going and returning. 

A third and fourth horse throughout the 
year from Voreppe to Rives, but not re¬ 
turning. 

t ROUTE FROM G RENO RLE TO GAP, LEAD¬ 
ING TO MONT-GENKVRE; AND THENCE 
TO TURIN; BY WAY OF EMBRUN, MONT- 
DAUPHIN, AND BRIANCON. 

2 Vizille —It is much to be lamented 
that there are no relays of post- 
horses on the direct road from Vi¬ 
zille to Briancon and Mont-Ge- 
n^vre; as a fine road has been 
lately made over this Alp, which 


3 Pierre-Buffibre 
li Magnac 
If Masserb 
2f Uzerche 

2 Saint Pardoux 
t Donzenac 

li Brives 
2J Cressensac 
2 ~ Souillac 
2f Peyrac 
2 f Pont-de-Rhodez 
2f Pelacoy 

2f Cahors — Anciently called Cadurci. 
Here are some remains of a Ro¬ 
man Amphitheatre. 

3 Madeleine 
2 Caussade 

2f Montauban—A handsome town, beau¬ 
tifully situated, on a hill; and con¬ 
taining above 23,000 inhabitants. 
The best inns are, Le Tapis Verd; 
IJHotel des Ambassadeurs ; and 
Le grand Soldi. An extra 
quarter of a post is paid on quitting 
Montauban. 

2} Canals 
1 f V. Jorry 
2f Toulouse 

S2f posts. 

This city, watered by the Ga¬ 
ronne, and anciently called Tolosa, 
contains 55,500 inhabitants. The 
front of the Hotel de Ville and the 
Bridge merit attention ; the latter 
being one of the finest in Europe. 
Toulouse is embellished with a va¬ 
riety of pleasant Promenades. Prin¬ 
cipal inns, VHotels du Nord, and 
de France. 

1 \ Castanet —An extra quarter of a post 
is paid from Toulouse to Casta¬ 
net. 

is considerably lower than Cenis, 
and provided with a Convent for 
the accommodation of Travellers. 
A third horse all the year between 
Grenoble and Vizille. 

1 La Frey —A third and fourth horse 

all the year going, but not re¬ 
turning. 

If La Mure —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

If Souchons —A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

If Corps — A third horse all the year, 
both going and returning. 

2 La Gain get te-de-Boyer 
If Brutinet 

If Gap—The last Post-House established 
on this road is at Gap. Prin¬ 
cipal inns, Hotel de Laved,Hotel 

- de Marchand. 

11 posts. 


352 


APPENDIX. 


U Basstige 
Villefranche 

2| Castelnaudary — This town is near 
the great Canal of Languedoc. 
Ville finte 

1 Alzonne 

2£ Carcassonne—In the upper-town is a 
castle which contains some old 
law deeds, written in a very pe¬ 
culiar manner upon the bark of 
trees. The ci-devant Capuchin- 
church merits notice. Principal 
inns, JV Hotel de L’Ange ; IS Ho¬ 
tel de S. Jean ; and L’Hotel de 
petit Paris. 

2 Barbeirac 

l£ Moux — A plain covered with olives, 
vines, corn, and mulberry-trees, 
and encircled by barren rocks. 

2 Cruscades 

Narbonne — Here are ruins of seve¬ 
ral Homan edifices, and in the 
Cathedral is tiie tomb of Philip 
the Hold. Principal inns, IAHo¬ 
tel de la Daurade, and I.'Hotel 
de France. This city was an- 
•iently called Narbonensis. 

2f Sigean 

2 Fit on 

1 Salces 

2 Perpignan— The great Church de- 
- serves notice. 

100£ posts*. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO LA RO¬ 
CHELLE, THROUGH CHARTRES, 

TOURS, AND POITIERS. 

2 j Versailles 
2 Connitres 

lj liambouillet —Here is a strong castle, 
in which Francis I, expired. 

1J Epernon 

1 Main tenon 

2£ Chartres — Anciently called Carnutcs. 
The great Church and its Belfry 
are worth seeing. 

2 Ini Bourdiniere 
2 Bonne vul 

2 Chateaudun 
1J Cloye 
2 Pcsou 
1J Vendbme 
] ■{ Neuve S. Amand 
Chateau-Regnault 
2 Monnoye 

1|- Tours—Anciently called Tnrones. 
This town, pleasantly situated on 
the Loire, contains 21,000 inha¬ 
bitants. The Mall — the Cathe¬ 
dral — and the Church of S. Mar¬ 
tin, merit notice. The Cathcdral- 

* Post-Masters are authorized to put on 
a third horse at every stage between 
Limoges and Gri/olles : and, at Souillac, 
the post master is authorized to add a pair 
of oxen to every four-wheeled carriage, 
going either to Peyrac or Crcssensac ; 
charging three francs, drink-money for the 


[Ch. II. 

library contain* valuable manu¬ 
scripts. Tours is one of the most 
eligible situations in France for 
a permanent residence; the so¬ 
ciety being good, the surrounding 
country beautiful, and the climate 
particularly salubrious, and very 
seldom visited by the vent de bise; 
added to which, provisions and 
house-rent are cheap. An extra 
cpiarter of a post is paid on quit¬ 
ting Tours, except by way of Mon¬ 
noye. 

1 2 Carres —This country is watered by 
the Loire and the Cher, and famed 
for excellent fruits. 

1 Montbazon 

1 Sorigny 

2 S. Maure 
2 Ormcs 

In grande 
1 Chutellerault 
1 Barres-de-Nintre 
I Iju Tricherie 

1 Clan 

2 Poitiers—This town, formerly called 

Pictavi, is built at the confluence 
of the Clain and the Boivre, and 
said to contain 21,000 inhabitants. 
Here are the remains of an an¬ 
cient Theatre, and a triumphal 
Arch, or Aqueduct, the latter of 
which is now converted into a 
gate. 

1 Croutelle 
2j Lvsignan 

l| Villedieu-du-Perron 

2 S. Maixent 
1 £ La Creche 

Niort—This town contains a Gothic 
Church, which was built by the 
English. Principal inns, Le Rai¬ 
sin de Bourgogne; Les trois Pi¬ 
geons ; IAHotel de la Pair, &c. 
Niort is said to have 15,000 in¬ 
habitants. 
l£ Frontenay 
1 i Mauzc 
1 Laigne 
If Nuaille 
1 - Grolaud 

1 La Rochelle—Here arc the remains of 
a celebrated Dike, which was con¬ 
structed by Cardinal Richelieu. 
La Rochelle contains 18,000 in¬ 
habitants; its harbour is safe and 
commodious: and its principal 
inns are, 1A Hotel des Ambassa- 
deurs, and LA Hotel des Princes. 
The road through Tours and Or¬ 
leans to Rochelle is 61 posts ; and 
that through Vendomc, Tours, 

driver inclusive. 

A thiid horse all the year between 
\ illefranche and Castelnaudary ; for the 
six winter-months between Castelnaudary 
and ^ illepinte; Do. between Carcassonne 
and Barbeirac; and all the vear between 
Narbonne and Perpignan. 



Ch. II.] 


FRANCE—CAEN—CHERBOURG—NANTES. 


S53 


Poitiers, Niort and Saintes, 09 

- posls and a half *. 

Gif posts. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO CHERBOURG, 
THROUGH CAEN. 

1 h Nanterre 

if S. Germain-en-Laye 

if Trie l 

1 Meulan 

2 Mantes 
lk Bonnieres 
2 Pacy 

2 Evreux 

La Commanderie 
2 La Riviere-Thibouville 
1J Le Marchc-neuf 
If L’Hotellcrie 
if Lisieux 
2 Ei tree z 
If Moult 

2 Caen—A large city, remarkable for 
being the burial-place of William, 
the Conqueror of England. Prin¬ 
cipal inns. The Hotels d’Angle- 
terre, de Londres, A' Espugne, 
See. An extra quarter of a post is 
paid on quitting Caen. 

1J Bretteville I’Orgueilteuse 
2 Bayeux 
Vaubadon 
2k S. Lo 
if S. Jean Day 
if Carentan 
if Salute Mere-Eglise 
2 Valognes 

2£ Cherbourg —The improvements made 
in this Harbour by Napoleon 
highly merit notice. Inns, L?Ho¬ 
tel d’Angleterre; Le grave 

- Turc, &c. 

44j posts. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO L’ORIENT, 
THROUGH RENNES. 

44j Rennes—See the route from Paris to 
Brest. 

2 Mordelles 
2.1 Plelan 
2 Campeneuc 
1 Ptocrrnel 

1 Roc-S. Andre 

2 Pont-Guillemet 

2i Vannes—Inns, Le Dauphin, Le Lion 
d’or, and IJ Hotel de France. 

2 Auray —Near this town is a ci-devant 
Chartreuse, which merits notice. 

* A third horse all the year between 
Monnoye and Tours. 

Do. lor six months between Tours and 
Ormes. 

Do. all the year between Poitiers and 
Lusignan. 

Do. all the year between La Creche and 
La Laigne. 

Do. duiing the six winter-months be- 


2 Landevant 
1 k Hennebon 

1£ L’Orient —This is one of the prettiest 
towns in France. Inns, L'Hotel 
de Commerce, and L'Hotel des 

- Etrangers. 

64 posts t. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO NANTES. 

lOf Dreux —See the route from Paris to 
Brest. 

1£ Morvillette 
1 Chiiteuu-neuf 

1 Digny 

La Louppe 

2 Regmalurd 
2 Bellesme 

2 S. Cosmc-de-Vair 
lj Bonnetable 
2 Savigne 

l£ Le Mans—This town, watered by the 
Sarte, contains above 18,000 inha¬ 
bitants : its Cathedral merits no¬ 
tice. Its principal inns are, Le 
Croissant ; Le Dauphin ; and 
La Roule do'r. 

2 Guesselard 

1 Foulletourle 
2 .V La Fleche 
if Durtal 

2 Suette 

2j Angers—A large and populous town, 
seated on the Mayenne. 

2 f S. Georges 
1 Champtoce 
If Varades 
If Ancenis 
If Out/on 
If La Sailleraye 
If Nantes 

43| posts. 

Nantes, the Condivicum of the 
Romans, and one of the most con¬ 
siderable cities in France, contains 
75,000 inhabitants. It is built at 
the confluence of the rivers Erdre 
and Sevre with the Loire, and 
adorned by twelve bridges; most 
of which are handsome. Among 
the best hotels are L' Hotel de 
France , and L' Hotel des Etrangers. 
An extra quarter of a post is paid 
on quitting this city ; 

twe n La Laigne and Nuaille. 

t A third horse, during the six winter 
months, between Rennes and Plelan. 

Ditto, the whole year, between Plelan 
and Ploeimel. 

Do. dming the six winter-months be¬ 
tween lMoermel and S. Andre. 

Do. the whole year between S. Andre 
and Vannes. 




354 APPENDIX. [Ch. II. 


ROUTE FROM NANTES, THROUGH 
RENNES, TO SAINT-MALO. 

1^ Gesvres 
l| La Croix-Blanche 
2 Nozay 
l£ Derval 
lj Breharaye 
u Roudun 
2 Bout de-Lande 
2 Rennes 
2i Hi’de 

Saint-Pierre-de-Plesguen 

Vhdteau-newf 


li Saint-Malo— An 'extra half-post is 
.- paid if the tide be high. 

22 posts *. 

S. Malo is built on a rock, sur¬ 
rounded by sea, and communicating 
with the land by a causey, called 
the Silon. The Ramparts merit 
notice. The best inns are VHotel 
du Commerce; V Hotel de la Pair ; 
V Hotel de France; and V Hotel 
des Voyageurs . 


CHAPTER III. 


SWITZERLAND. 

Post-horses, 4c.—Most advantageous way of seeing Switzerland—Money of that country 
—Geneva—Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers—Expense of living at Geneva— 
Diligences—Hotels—Route, going post, from Geneva, by the Simplon, to Milan, and 
vice-versa—Price of post-horses on that road—Passage of S. Gothard—Passage of the 
Grand S. Bernard—Passage of Splugen. 


Post-horses are only to be met 
with in particular parts of this 
country; but draught-horses may al¬ 
ways be hired of Swiss Voiturins: 
as may saddle-horses and mules f. 
Persons, however, who wish to see 
Switzerland to advantage, should 
travel on foot; a mode so com¬ 
monly adopted that the Foot-pas¬ 
senger is as well received, even at 
the best inns, as if he came in a 
splendid equipage. The expense in¬ 
curred by travelling on foot through 
Switzerland seldom exceeds five shil¬ 
lings, English money, per day, for 
each Traveller : half a crown being, 
on an average, the price of a table- 
d’hote supper, wine, and lodging in¬ 
clusive ; and Pedestrians should 
make supper their principal meal. 

* A third horse, all the year, between 
Nantes and Gesvres. 

Do. during the six winter-months be¬ 
tween La Croix Blanche and Novay. 

Do. during the six winter-months be¬ 
tween Bout-de-Lande and Rennes. 

A third horse, all the year,between Ren¬ 
nes and Hed£. 


Accounts are kept in livres and 
batz ; one Swiss livre being ten batz, 
or thirty French sous. The old Louis- 
d’or, the Napoleon, the French ecu, 
and demi-ecu, are the coins which 
pass best throughout Switzerland. 

GENEVA. 

ARRIVAL and departure of 
LETTER-COURIERS. 

Letters from Great Britain arrive 
on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, 
and Sundays, at six in the afternoon, 
by the French Courier. 

Letters for Great Britain go on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and 
Saturdays, at eight in the morning, 
by the French Courier. 

Geneva is not a cheap place for 

Do. during the six winter-months, be¬ 
tween Hed£ and Chateau-neuf; and all the 
year between Chateau-neuf and S. Malo. 

+ The price, per day, of a pair of draught- 
horses, is from twelve to sixteen florins 
beside half a florin to the driver. The price’ 
per day, ot a saddle- horse, or mule, is au 
ecu-nenf. 



Ch. III.] SWITZERLAND—ROUTE OVER THE SIMPLON. 355 


permanent residence ; but, neverthe¬ 
less, there are Genevese Families 
who take Boarders at four louis- 
d’ors a month ; whereas a person 
who hires a private lodging, and 
dines daily at a table-d' hote, cannot 
spend less than double that sum. 

This town is famous for watches, 
and gold trinkets of all descriptions. 

Diligences go several times a 
week from Geneva to Lausanne, 
Neuchatel, Lyons, Grenoble, and 
Turin, by way of the Mont-Cenis. 

ROUTE, GOING POST, FROM GE¬ 
NEVA, BY THE SIMPLON, TO MI¬ 
LAN : BEING A CONTINUATION 
OF THE MILITARY ROUTE MADE 
BY NAPOLEON. 

The price of post-horses from 
Geneva, by the Simplon, to the 
Frontier of Switzerland, is the same 
as in France; unless, (which some¬ 
times happens) Travellers be im¬ 
posed upon, and made to pay in 
Swiss livres. 

2J Dovaine 
2 Thonon 
if Evian 

Saint Gingoux 
2£ Vionnaz 
24 Saint-Maurice 
2^ Martlgny 
2J Riddes 
Sion 

2 | Sierre 
2) Tourtcmagne 
2} Vidge 
>4 Brigge 
2f Barisello 

3^ Sempione, (village so called) 

Isella 

2£ Domo-d’Ossola 

2 Vogogna 

3 Fariolo, or JJavCn 
2f Aron a 

11 Sesto-Calende 
2 Cascina 
li Ro 
1:1 Milan 

52J posts. 

ROUTE FROM MILAN, BY THE SIM¬ 
PLON, TO GENEVA, ACCORDING 
TO THE IT I N ERA RIO IT A LI A NO, 
PUBLISHED AT MILAN, IN THE 
YEAR 1820. 

1} Ro 

1' Cascina 


2 Sesto-Calende 

1 Arona 

14 Belgirate 
1§ Baieno 

2 Vogogna 

2 Domo-d’Ossola 
2J 1 sella 

24 Sempione, (village so called) 

4J Brigge 
i| Viege 
2 Tourtcmagne 
2 Sierre 
2 Sion 
2 Riddes 
2 Martigny 
2 .S’. Maurice 
2 Vionnaz 
2 S. Gingoux 
2j Evian 
if Thonon 
2 Dovaine 
2f Geneva. 

47| posts. 

PASSAGE OF S. GOTIIARD. 

Previous to the existence of the 
new roads over the Simplon and 
Cenis, this was one of the most fre¬ 
quented routes from Switzerland into 
Italy : and the journey from Fluelen 
to Bellinzone is easily accomplished 
in four days, whether on foot or on 
horseback : neither can this passage 
be called dangerous at any season, 
except while the snow is melting. 
Between Fluelen and l’Hopital, the 
Pfaffen-Sprung, the Cascade , the 
Devil's Bridge, the Schollenen, the 
Urner-loch, and the beautiful pro¬ 
spect presented by the Valley of 
Urseline, are the objects best worth 
a Traveller’s attention. A little be¬ 
yond the village of lTIopitalis(’//os- 
picedes Capuchins, where Travellers 
meet with clean beds, good wine, 
and a hospitable reception ; in re¬ 
turn for which they are expected, on 
going away, to leave a trifling pre¬ 
sent for the support of this useful 
establishment. The summit of S. 
Gothard is a small plain, encom¬ 
passed by lofty rocks; and the height 
of this plain is supposed to be 6790 
English feet above the level of the 
Mediterranean sea. Between l’Hos- 
pice and Bellinzone the views are 
beautiful; and the whole route is 
much embellished by the river Te- 
sino, the forests of firs, the pastu- 

2 a 2 


35G 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. II. 


rag-os, the pretty hamlets placed in 
elevated situations; and the vines, 
poplars, chesnuts, walnuts, and fig- 
trees, which continually present 
themselves to view. 

Travellers who pass S. Gothard 
on foot, or on horseback, usually 
sleep the first night at Ursern; the 
second at Airolo, where the inn is 
good; the third at Giornico; and 
the fourth at Bellinzone. Carriages 
may pass, by being dismounted, from 
Altorf to Giornico; but the expense 
of conveying a carriage over S. Go¬ 
thard is seldom less than twenty-four 
louis-d’ors. 

Travellers may either proceed from 
Bellinzone to Milan, by the Lago 
Maggiore, or the Lago di Como *. 

PASSAGE OF THE GRAND SAINT 
BERNARD. 

Persons who wish to go the short¬ 
est way from French Switzerland 
into Italy, usually cross the Grand S. 
Bernard; there is, however, no car¬ 
riage-road beyond Branchier; though 
English carriages have occasionally 
been dismounted at Martigny, and 
carried over the mountain to Aoste, 
at the expense of eighteen or twenty 
Napoleons per carriage, according 
to its size; the transport of trunks 
not included. The price, per day, 
for every porter-mule employed on 
S.Bernard, is twenty-six batz; guide 
and tax for the Commissary inclu¬ 
sive; though Foreigners pay more. 

From Martigny to L’Hospice is 
about nine leagues. At Luldes , where 
the ascent begins to grow steep, Tra¬ 
vellers commonly pause to see the 
collection of minerals and antique 
medals belonging to the Cure of Ar- 
beley. These medals were chiefly 

* The Lake of Como, anciently called 
Locus Larius, is said to be fifty miles in 
length ; from three to six miles in breadth ; 
and from forty to six hundred feet in depth. 
This Lake, combined with the town of 
Como, anciently Comum, presents a beau¬ 
tiful landscape, Pliny the younger was born 
at Como; and in the front of the Cathedral 
is his Statue. The distance from Como 
through Barlassina to Milan is three posts. 


found on S. Bernard. From Liddes 
to S. Pierre is one league; and the 
latter village contains an Inn : here 
likewise is the military Column , 
placed by the Romans on what they 
deemed the highest part of the Ma¬ 
ritime Alpst. This country is re¬ 
markable for deep hollows bordered 
with rocks, into which hollows the 
Drance precipitates itself with such 
violence as to exhibit a scene by 
many persons preferred to the fall 
of the llhiue at Schaffhausen. From 
S. Pierre to LTIospice is three 
leagues; and every step toward the 
summitofthe mountain increasesthe 
steepness of the path,and the wildness 
of the prospects. AVhite partridges 
are seen here in large numbers. 

About one league beyond S. Pierre 
the road consists of snow, frozen so 
hard that a horse’s hoof scarcely 
makes any impression on it: this 
road traverses two valleys; the first 
being called Les Enfersdes Foireuses; 
and the second La Valleedela Combe ; 
between which spot and l’Hospice 
the quantity of snow decreases.— 
E Hospice is supposed to be the 
most elevated of all human habita¬ 
tions in the old world; and some 
benevolent Monks of the Augustine 
order live here constantly, for the 
purpose of accommodating and suc¬ 
couring Travellers ; several of whom 
owe their preservation to these hu¬ 
mane ecclesiastics; who make a 
practice of searching out every un¬ 
fortunate person lost in the snow¬ 
storms, or buried by the avalanches : 
and in this search they are aided by 
large dogs, who scent Travellers at a 
considerable distance; and, in spite 
of impenetrable fogs and clouds of 
snow, are always able to discover 

t The most elevated point of the Grand 
S. Bernard, namely, Mont-Velan, is sup¬ 
posed to be (as I have already mentioned) 
more than ten thousand English feel above 
the level of the Mediterranean sea : and 
l’Hospice, according to Saussnrc, is eight 
thousand and seventy-four Paris feet (though 
subsequent computations make it only six 
thousand one hundred and fifty Paris feet) 
above the level of the Mediterranean sea. 


Ch. III.] SWITZERLAND—PASSAGE OF S. BERNARD, 8fc. 357 


and pursue the right road. These 
useful animals, (who seldom bark, 
and never bite a stranger,) carry in 
baskets, fastened to their necks, cor¬ 
dials and eatables calculated to re¬ 
vive those persons who are nearly 
frozen to death: and notwithstand¬ 
ing all that has been lately written 
relative to the extinction of this race 
of dogs, they are, at the present 
moment, more numerous than here¬ 
tofore. Every Traveller is cour¬ 
teously received at 1’IIospice; and 
the Sick are provided with good 
medical and chirurgical assistance, 
without distinction of rank, sex, 
country, or religion ; neither is any 
recompense expected for all this 
hospitality; though persons who 
possess the means seldom fail to 
leave a testimony of their gratitude 
in the Poor's box belonging to the 
Church. Travellers should, if pos¬ 
sible, find time to ascend the Col de 
Tenebres, (which is not a very fa¬ 
tiguing excursion,) in order to see 
a fine view of that part of Mont- 
Blanc which cannot be discovered 
from Chamouni. The valley in 
which l’Hospice stands is long, nar¬ 
row, and terminated by a small Lake, 
on the extremity of which the Con¬ 
vent is erected. Near this spot there 
formerly was a temple consecrated 
to Jupiter; and, according to some 
opinions, the Convent stands pre¬ 
cisely on the site of this Temple, 
from which S. Bernard derives its 
ancient name of Mons-Jovis. The 
conventual Chapel here contains a 
Monument to the memory of the 
French General, Dessaix; who is 
represented as being in the act of 
falling from his horse into the arms 
of a Grenadier, and uttering the 
words, “ Allez, dire au Premier 
Consul,” &c. On the Monument is 
the following inscription : “ A Des¬ 
saix; mort ci la bafaille de Marengo.” 
The body was brought hither from 
Milan by order of Napoleon, who 
erected this interesting piece of 
sculpture to commemorate the heroic 

* Sec thie route, under 


death of his Friend. The descent from 
1’ Hospice to Aoste,occupies between 
six and seven hours: and at Aoste 
there are remains of a triumphal 
Arch, built in the time of Augustus; 
the ruins of a Circus, 8fc. From the 
last-named town Travellers may 
proceed either to Turin or Milan. 
The road to the former city passes 
through a beautiful country, and the 
time employed in going need not 
exceed twenty hours *. 

PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. 

Persons travelling from Suabia, 
or the country of the Grisons, to 
Venice, or Milan, will find this the 
shortest route: thoughnobody should 
attempt to cross the mountain of 
Splugen at the season of the ava¬ 
lanches : and, indeed, at all seasons, 
great caution should be used in dan¬ 
gerous places not to agitate the air, 
even by speaking in a loud voice. 
When there is such an accumulation 
of snow that the pointed rocks on 
the summits of the Alps are covered, 
avalanches may be expected hourly. 
The road, so far as Loire, is good; 
but carriages can proceed no fur¬ 
ther : from Coire, therefore, Tra¬ 
vellers must either walk or ride, or 
be conveyed in a traineau, or a 
chaise-d-porteur: and the safest and 
pleasantest mode of passing this Alp 
is under the guidance of the Messa- 
ger, who goes every week from Lin- 
dau to Milan, and undertakes, for a 
certain price, to defray all the ex¬ 
penses of the passage, board and 
lodging inclusive. It is a much 
greater fatigue to cross Splugen than 
Saint Gothard: but the wildness 
and sublimity of the prospects com¬ 
pensate for every difficulty. The 
road between Coire, and the village 
of Splugen, is called Via-Mala; not, 
however, from being a particularly 
bad road, but in consequence of the 
terrific aspect of the country through 
which it passes. One of the most 
striking objects in this route is the 
Paten-Br'ucke; where* by leaning 

ArriiKuix, Italy* 


358 


APPENDIX. 


over the wall of a bridge, the Tra¬ 
veller discovers an abyss which the 
rays of the sun never enlightened, 
and at the same time hears the tre¬ 
mendous roaring of the Rhine, which 
forms, in this place, a circular basin, 
whence it issues, like a silver thread, 
out of a narrow passage in the rocks. 
Beyond the Paten-Briicke is Scham- 
serthal , one of the most romantic 
valleys of the Alps; and in the 
Rheinwald, or forest of the Rhine, 
are firs of so uncommon a magni¬ 
tude, that one of them is said to 
measure twenty-five ells round the 
trunk. The fall of the Rhine , in 
this forest, exhibits one of the sub- 
limest objects in nature, which, 
while it fills spectators with awe, 
affords them the pleasure of contem¬ 
plating scenes in the creation that 
no pencil could imitate. The road 
here is frequently so narrow, that a 
Guide should be sent a-head, in 
order to stop the beasts of burden, 
(coming from the opposite side of 
the mountain,) in places where it 
is possible to pass them; and to 
avoid these unpleasant rencounters, 
and at the same time escape the 
wind which rises about mid-day, 
Travellers should leave Splugen be¬ 


[Ch. III. 

tween two and three in the morning. 
The generality of persons, when they 
ascend this mountain, lie down at 
full length in a traineau, drawn by 
an ox, with their heads next to the 
pole; because the ascent is so steep, 
that their feet would otherwise be 
considerably higher than the rest of 
their bodies. It takes a couple of 
hours to reach the summit, where 
there is a good inn. The descent 
on the opposite side, called the Car¬ 
dinal, exhibits terrific precipices, at 
the bottom of which runs the Lyra, 
with an impetuosity that seems mo¬ 
mentarily to increase. The Tra¬ 
veller is then presented with a view 
of the melancholy valley of S. Jaques ; 
and proceeds amidst broken rocks 
and fallen mountains, in rude con¬ 
fusion piled upon each other, like 
the disjointed fragments of a demo¬ 
lished world; till at length, the hills 
of Chiavenna, covered with peach 
and almond-trees, gradually pre¬ 
sent themselves to view ; and unite 
with the balmy zephyrs of Italy to 
banish fatigue, by exhilarating the 
spirits. 

Travellers usually embark at La 
Riva, and continue their journey, 
either by Como or Bergamo. 



359 


CHAPTER IV. 

ITALY. 


LEGHORN, PISA, AND FLORENCE. 


Italian Posts—Italian Miles—Price of Post-horses in northern Italy—Do. in Tuscany— 
Do. in the Principality of Lucca—Do. in the Ecclesiastical Territories—Do. in the 
Kingdom of Naples—Other particulars relative to travelling post in Italy—Particulars 
relative to travelling en voiturier—Tuscany—Current coins—Bankers’ accounts—Pound- 
weight—Tuscan measure called a braccio—Prices at the principal Hotels—Buona- 
inano to Attendants—Wages of a Yalet-de-place—Leghorn—Price of carriages—En¬ 
trance paid by English Travellers at the Theatre—Articles best worth purchasing— 
Provisions—Asses’ milk — Fruit—Beccafichi—Ortolans—Size of a Tuscan barrel of 
wine—Do. of oil—Do. of a catastre of wood—Public carriage from Leghorn to Pisa— 
Boats—Diligence from Leghorn to Florence—Environs of Leghorn unwholesome— 
Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers—Pisa—Fees to Custom-house Officers and 
Musicians—Winter price of Lodging-houses—Boxes at the Theatre—Entrance-money— 
Expense of Job-carriages—Servants’ wages—Dinner at a Restaurateur’s—-Mode in 
which dinners should be ordered from a Traiteur—Firewood—Mats—Eatables—Milk, 
cream, oil, and wine—Scales and weights for kitchen-use recommended—Music, draw¬ 
ing, and language-masters—Fees to medical Men—Banking-house—Prices for making 
wearing apparel—Bookseller—Tuscany recommended as a cheap country for permanent 
residence—Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers at Pisa—Price for franking letters 
—Price of a seat in the Diligence from Pisa to Florence—Persons going this journey 
advised not to have their baggage plumbed—Hotels and private lodging-houses at Flo¬ 
rence—Winter price of the latter; and where to apply for information respecting them 
—Price of board and lodging in an Italian family—Further particulars relative to 
prices at Inns—Coffee-houses—Restaurateurs—Table-d’Hote—Price per month for a 
carriage and horses—Do. per day—Provisions in general—Asses’ milk, wine, oil, ice, 
medicines—Price of Butchers’ meat, bread, poultry, &£.—Price of table-wine—Best 
Bookseller—Shops for,foreign wine, English porter, tea, medicines, 4c.— Grocer—Silk- 
mercer—Linen drapers—Shoes and boots—Tailors—Ladies’ dress makers—Coach- 
makers—Money changer—Firewood—Fees to Medical Men and Notaries public— 
Prices at the Theatres—Music Masters, S^c. —Sculptors—Painter—Bankers—Arrival 
and departure of Letter-Couriers—Country-houses near Florence. 


LENGTH OF AN ITALIAN POST. 

The length of an Italian post is 
from seven to eight miles: but, the 
miles of Italy differ in extent; that 
of Piedmont and Genoa, being 
about one English mile and a half ; 
that of Lombardy, about sixty yards 
less than an English mile,* that of 
Tuscany, a thousand geometrical 
paces; that of the Ecclesiastical 
State, the same length (which is 
about one hundred and fifty yards 
short of an English mile;) and that 
of the Kingdom of Naples, longer 
than the English mile, by about two 
hundred and fifty yards. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE 
SARDINIAN TERRITORIES. 

Every draught horse, per post, 


one French livre and fifty cen¬ 
times. 

Every carriage furnished by a 
post-master, one livre and fifty cen¬ 
times. 

Every postillion, one livre and 
fifty centimes. 

TARIFF. 

CABRIOLETS. 

No. of horses. Price for each horse 

2 1 liv. 50 cent. 

3 1 50 

3 2 


LIMONIERES. 


1,2,or 3 

3 

1 50 

4 

3 

EERLINES. 

2 

1,2, or 3 

4 

1 50 

4, or 5 

6 

1 50 

6 

6 

1 75 

A child, 
paid for. 

if under six years of age, is not 


No. of persons. 
1 , or 2 

3 

4 


360 

If a Limoniere contain above four 
persons, and if a Berline contain 
above six, an additional charge is 
made of one livre and fifty centimes 
per post. 

PASSAGE OF CENIS. 

From the first of November to 
the first of April the price of every 
draught-horse, from Molaret to 
Lanslebourg, and from Lanslebourg 
to Susa, is two livres per post: and 
from the fifteenth of September to 
the fifteenth of May, the same price 
is charged for every additional horse 
and mule, from Susa to Molaret, 
from Molaret to Mont Cenis, and 
from Lanslebourg to Mont Cenis; 
but not vice versd. To every Ca¬ 
briolet, containing one or two per¬ 
sons, one additional horse is add¬ 
ed—to every Cabriolet , containing 
three persons, two additional horses 
and a postillion—to every Cabriolet, 
containing four persons,three horses 
and a postillion—to every Limo¬ 
niere, containing two persons, two 
horses and a postillion—to every 
Limoniere, containing three or four 
persons, three horses and a postil¬ 
lion—and to every Berline, con¬ 
taining three or four persons, two 
horses and a postillion. 

PASSAGE OF THE ECIIELLES. 

The Post-master here, is obliged 
to furnish, in addition to his horses, 
draught-oxen, at one livre and fifty 
centimes the pair, per post. To 
every Cabriolet d glares, drawn by 
two horses, one pair of oxen must 
be added—to every Limoniere, drawn 
by three or four horses, one pair of 
oxen in summer, and two pair in 
winter—to every Berline, drawn by 
four horses, two pair of oxen—and 
to every Berline drawn by six horses, 
two pair of oxen in summer, and 
three pair in winter. To an open 
Cabriolet containing only one per- 

* The price of Post-horses in the Duchies 
of Parma and Modena, is the same as in 
the Lombardo-Vcnetian realm ; except 
from Fiorcnzola to Cremona, and from 


[Ch. IV. 

son, no oxen are added; but the 
postmaster at Eschelles is authorized 
to add an extra horse to S. Thibault- 
du-Coux. 

ASCENT OF THE SIMPLON. 

The Post-masters at Domo d’Os- 
sola, and Yeselles, are authorized 
to put one additional horse to car¬ 
riages drawn by two or three horses; 
and two additional horses to car¬ 
riages drawn by four horses: but 
they are not authorized to put more 
than six horses to any carriage 
whatever. 

PASSAGE OF THE BOCCHETTA. 

From Novi to Voltaggio, and 
from Voltaggio to Campo-Marone, 
and vice versd, twenty-five centimes 
per post are added to the charge for 
every draught-horse. 

At Turin it is advisable that per¬ 
sons who intend to travel post 
should apply to the Direzione gene¬ 
rate delle Poste, for an order re¬ 
specting post-hores; which order, 
called a Bullet.on, saves trouble, 
and prevents imposition. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE 

LOMBARDO-VENETIAN REALM. 

Every pair of draught-horses, per 
post, five French livres, and fifty 
centimes. 

Every Calesse, furnished by a 
post-master, forty centimes ; and 
every close carriage furnished by a 
post-master, eighty centimes. 

Every postillion, one livre and 
fifty centimes : postillions, however, 
are seldom satisfied with less than 
double that sum *. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN TUS¬ 
CANY. 

Every pair of draught-horses, ten 
pauls a post; except on quitting Flo¬ 
rence, when the price is six pauls 
per horse. 

Oastel San-Glovanni to Pavia, at winch 
places the price is seven livres and fifty 
centimes for every pair of draught-horses. 


appendix. 


361 


ITALY—PRICE OF POST-HORSES, 8fc. 


Ch. IV.] 

The third horse, four pauls. 

Every saddle-horse, five pauls. 

Every postillion, three pauls. 

Hostler, at every post, half a 
paul for every pair of horses. 

Every Calesse, furnished by a 
post-master, three pauls; and every 
carriage, with four places, six pauls. 

A Postillion expects five pauls 
for every common post, and six 
pauls on quitting Florence. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE 
PRINCIPALITY OF LUCCA. 

Every pair of draught-horses, ten 
pauls a post. 

The third horse four pauls. 

Hostler, at every post, half a 
paul for every pair of horses. 

Every saddle-horse, five pauls. 

Every postillion, three pauls. 

Every Calesse, furnished by a post¬ 
master, three pauls; and every car¬ 
riage, with four places, six pauls. 

Travellers, on quitting Lucca, are 
charged fifteen pauls for every pair 
of draught-horses. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE 

ECCLESIASTICAL TERRITORIES. 

Every pair of draught-horses, ten 
pauls a post. 

The third horse, four pauls. 

Every saddle-horse, four pauls. 

Every postillion, three pauls and 
a half. 

Hostler, at every post, half a paul 
for every pair of horses. 

Every Calesse, furnished by a post¬ 
master, three pauls; and every car¬ 
riage with four inside places, (fur¬ 
nished by a post-master,) six pauls 
per post. 

A postillion expects five pauls per 
post. 

Travellers are charged an extra¬ 
half-post on quitting Rome. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE 
KINGDOM OF NAPLES. 

Great roads. Every draught- 
horse, and every saddle-horse, six 
carl ini and a half, per post. 

Every postillion one carlinoand a 
half a horse, per post. 


Hostler, at provincial post-houses, 
half a carlino for every pair of horses 
—hostler, at the Naples post-house, 
one carlino for every pair of horses. 

Cross Roads. Every draught-horse, 
nine carlini, per post. 

Every po#tillion, two carlini per 
post. 

Every carriage with two inside 
places, furnished by a post-master, 
live carlini; and every carriage with 
four inside places, (furnished by 
a post-master,) ten carlini per post. 

A postillion expects six carlini a 
post. 

For a post-royal, in the Neapo¬ 
litan territories, an extra half-post 
is charged. 

Hostlers in Italy are seldom con¬ 
tented Avith less than twice their due: 
and the person who throws water 
over the wheels of travelling car¬ 
riages (a necessary operation in hot 
weather), expects half a paul for his 
trouble. 

An English post-chaise, with 
shafts, conveying two or three per¬ 
sons only, and not heavily laden, is al¬ 
lowed to travel with two, or, at most, 
three horses, in those parts of north¬ 
ern Italy which are not mountainous: 
but, if the carriage convey four per¬ 
sons, it is not allowed to travel with 
less than four horses. A calesse, 
conveying three persons, and only 
one trunk, is allowed to travel with 
two horses. 

In Tuscany, if the road be not 
mountainous, an English post-chaise, 
with a pole, conveying three persons, 
and no trunk, is allowed to travel 
with two horses only: but English 
carriages conveying four persons and 
trunks, are not allowed to travel 
with less than four horses. In the 
Ecclesiastical Territories, a two¬ 
wheeled carriage, conveying three 
persons, and only one trunk, is al¬ 
lowed to travel with two horses; 
but, if it convey more than one 
trunk, three horses are indispen¬ 
sable : and persons who travel with 
more than two large trunks, are sub* 
jectto a tax of two pauls per post fcir 


362 

every extra-trunk, vache,or portman¬ 
teau. A four-wheeled carriage, with 
a pole, conveying six persons and 
one trunk, is allowed to travel with 
only four horses; but if it convey 
seven persons, or six persons and 
two large trunks, six horses are indis¬ 
pensable. A four-wheeled carriage, 
half-open in the German fashion, 
and conveying only two persons, and 
one small trunk, is allowed to travel 
with only two horses. 

To the driver of every extra 
draught-horse, it is customary to 
give two pauls; though he cannot 
demand any remuneration. 

In the Neapolitan Territories, a 
four-wheeled carriage, conveying 
four persons and one large trunk, is 
allowed to travel with four horses 
only; but if it convey six persons, 
and two large trunks, six horses are 
indispensable. A two-wheeled car¬ 
riage, conveying two persons, and 
one large trunk, is allowed to travel 
with two horses; but, if it convey 
three persons and a large trunk, three 
horses are indispensable. 

Every post-master should be paid 
for his horses before they set out. 

Shafts are not used either in the 
Tuscan, Roman, or Neapolitan Ter¬ 
ritories. 

Tire average price paid in Italy for 
accommodations at Inns, by persons 
who travel post, is as follows, 

Pauls. 

Breakfast, per head, in large towns . 3 

—--in small towns . 2 

Dinner, per head, in large towns . . 10 

-- in small towns . . 8 

Beds, from three to five pauls each. 

It is more economical, and less 
troublesome in Italy, to travel en voi- 
turier, than to travel post, but it is 
more fatiguing; because, persons 
who accomplish a long journey with 
the same horses, must, generally 
speaking, travel slower than if they 
changed horses at every post; and, 
therefore, persons who follow the 
latter plan, need not rise so early as 
those who follow the former. If a 
Voiturin have good horses, they will 


[Ch. IV. 

go from forty to fifty Roman miles a 
day; arriving, in due time, at the 
destined sleeping-places. Mules are 
less expeditious, because they seldom 
trot. 

A Voiturin usually expects for 
conveying Travellers, in their own 
carriage, from one part of the Con¬ 
tinent to another, twelve francs a 
day per draught-horse : six francs a 
day for each master; three francs a 
day for each child ; and four francs 
and a half a day for each servant: 
and for this price he furnishes good 
horses, or mules, together w itli break¬ 
fast, supper, and beds; or dinner, 
supper, and beds : but, if he convey 
Travellers in a carriage belonging to 
himself, he seldom expects more 
than three quarters of the above- 
named price; because he can make 
a considerable profit by filling the car¬ 
riage with passengers on his return. 

The buona-mano usually given to 
a Voiturier, if he behave well, is 
about half a Spanish dollar per day. 

The fare, in a public carriage, 
from Florence to Rome, and like¬ 
wise from Rome to Naples, suppers 
and beds inclusive, is from ten to 
twelve scudi; unless it be a voiture 
de retour , in which case the fare is 
about eight scudi. 

If passengers, merely to accom¬ 
modate themselves, require a Voi¬ 
turier to stop one or more days on 
the road, he expects them to pay six 
francs per night, for the sustenance 
of each of his horses. 

A Voiturin commonly pays in Italy 
for his Passengers, the following 
prices at inns: 

Breakfast, per head, from a paul 
and a half, to two pauls—dinner, 
three pauls—supper and bed, five 
pauls: but Foreigners who pay for 
themselves at inns can seldom, if 
ever, make so good a bargain. 

Italian and Swiss Voiturins usually 
pay for their passengers, in France, 
four francs a head for supper and 
beds; and about two francs for 
dinner. Italian and Swiss voiturins 
likewise pay, for permission to travel 


appendix. 




Ch. IV.] 

in France, a tax of five sous a horse, 
per post, unless it be at those post- 
houses where they dine, or sleep. 

As Neapolitan Voiturins are 
deemed the worst in Italy, because 
notorious for breaking their engage¬ 
ments, Travellers should avoid going 
en voiturier, from Naples to Rome; 
unless it be with the Post-master’s 
horses. 

TUSCANY. 

CURRENT COINS. 

English. 

1. s. d, 

JJuspone, equal to about . 1 11 6 

Zecchino . . . . 0 lo 6 

Francescone, or Scudo* . 0 5 o 

Half ditto . . . , 0 2 6 

Piece of three paoli, or pauls 0 16 

Piece of two paoli . . 0 10 

Fir a .0 0 9 

Paolo . . ... 0 0 6 

Mezxo-Paolo . . . 0 0 3 

Piece of two crazie, four of which 
make on e paolo, or paid. 

Crazia, eight of which make one 
paid. 

Quattrino, five of which make one 
crazia. 

Soldo, one of which makes three 
quattrini. 

The one-paul piece of Rome is 
current for one paid of Tuscany. 

The tvvo-paul piece of Rome is 
current for two pauls of Tuscany, 
wanting four quattrini. 

The Spanish dollar is usually cur¬ 
rent for about nine pauls and a half. 
This coin is frequently called a pezzo- 
duro. 

The real value of the ruspone is 
only sixty pauls; but it can seldom 
be purchased under sixty-three; 
owing to the agio on gold: and, 
from the same cause, the zecchino, 
which is worth only twenty pauls, 
can seldom be purchased under 
twenty-one. 

Bankers’accountsthroughout T us- 
cany, arc kept in pezze, soldi, and 
danari s or lire, soldi, and danari. 

* Ten pauls make one Francesconc, or 
scudo; which is five francs and sixty cen¬ 
times of France. 

An Old Louis-d’or is usually current in 
Tuscany, for about forty-two pauls; and a 
Napoleon for about thirty-six pauls ; but the 


363 

Twelve danari make one soldo ; 
twenty soldi make one lira + ; five lire 
and fifteen soldi, or, at most, six lire, 
make the imaginary coin called a 
pezze, or piece of eight; and for 
each of these, a Banker charges so 
many English pence, according to 
the exchange, when he gives cash for 
a bill upon London $. Bankers, ac¬ 
cording to the Tuscan law, are 
obliged either to pay in gold, or to 
allow an agio if they pay in silver: 
the agio varies from week to week 
according to the demand for gold. 

The pound weight of Tuscany is 
divided into twelve ounces; the 
ounce into twenty-four deniers; 
and the denier into twenty-four 
grains. The Tuscan ounce is some¬ 
what less than the English. 

The common Tuscan measure, 
called a braccio, is about twenty-two 
English inches and a half; two brae - 
cia making one ell. 

Prices at the principal Hotels are 
much the same in Leghorn, Pisa, 
and Florence; namely, for a large 
apartment from twenty to thirty 
pauls a day; and for smaller apart¬ 
ments, from ten to fifteen pauls a 
day. For breakfast, from two to three 
pauls a head; for dinner, from eight 
to ten pauls a head; for servants, 
from four to five pauls a head per day ; 
and with regard to buona-mano to 
attendants at inns, the waiter usually 
expects about one paul per day, and 
the chamber-maid still less; that is, 
if Travellers reside at an inn by the 
week or month ; but, if they come 
for a few nights only, they are ex¬ 
pected to pay more liberally. 

The wages of a valet-de-place is 
four pauls per day throughout Tus¬ 
cany, he finding himself in board, 
lodging, and clothes. 

LEGHORN. 

The price of close carriages here 

value of French gold is fluctuating. 

t A lira of Tuscany is one paul and a 
half. 

% If the exchange he, as it usually is, in 
favour of England, every paul costs about 
five-pence. 


ITALY—LEGHORN. 



364 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. IV. 


is rather exorbitant; but, open 
carriages, ealled Timonelli, ply in 
the High Street, like our Ilackney 
coaches, and may be hired on reason¬ 
able terms. 

The price of a box at the Theatre 
varies according to the merit of the 
Performers; but is usually high. 
The entrance-money paid by Eng¬ 
lish Travellers, exclusive of the 
price of a box, is three pauls for an 
opera, and two for a play. 

Tea, coffee, sugar, English mus¬ 
tard, foreign wines, brandy, rum, 
arrack, porter, Bristol-beer, and 
Gorgona anchovies, may all be pur¬ 
chased cheaper at Leghorn than in 
any other city of Italy; so likewise 
may soap, starch, and hair-powder. 

Mecali, in Via-Graride, has a 
magnificent shop, containing a great 
variety of sculpture in alabaster and 
Carrara marble, jewels, trinkets, 
silks, linens, muslins, fyc. ; but the 
persons who serve in this shop 
usually ask much more than they 
take. 

Silks, linens, and muslins, may 
be purchased very cheap of the 
Jews, by the expert in making bar¬ 
gains. 

Persons who wear flannel should 
provide themselves with a stock at 
Leghorn; it being sometimes difficult 
to find this useful article of clothing 
in other parts of Italy. Townley, in 
Via Grande, sells flannel, and other 
English goods. 

Provisions at Leghorn are, gene¬ 
rally speaking, good ; butter and 
oil, however, must be excepted ; as 
both are very indifferent; but it is 
easy to obviate this inconvenience, 
by having Cascina butter from Pisa, 
and oil from Lari. Carriers, called 
Procaccini, go daily to the former 
place ; and from the latter the Pea¬ 
sants come to sell poultry, fruit, Sfc., 
at Leghorn, three or four times a 
week. 

Invalids may be regularly sup¬ 


plied with good asses’ milk at one 
crazia the ounce ; (the usual price 
throughout Tuscany;) goats’ and 
cows’ milk may likewise be pro¬ 
cured with ease; but persons who 
make a point of having the last quite 
genuine, should send into the coun¬ 
try for it; and with respect to asses’ 
milk, it is requisite for some trusty 
person to watch the milking of the 
ass, in order to prevent the infusion 
of hot water*. 

Malta and Genoa oranges, fine 
dates, and English potatoes, may 
frequently be purchased at Leghorn. 
There is an oyster-house near this 
city, and the oysters are good, but 
extremely dear. Figs and grapes, in 
their season, are abundant and ex¬ 
cellent; particularly the white fig, 
and small transparent white grape ; 
the last of which, if gathered dry, 
put into paper bags, and hung up 
in an airy room, may be preserved 
all the winter. The best sort of 
dried figs is generally sold in small 
baskets of about one foot long and 
four or five inches wide. Levant 
figs and Spanish raisins may be pur¬ 
chased at Leghorn ; and about the 
month of September large num¬ 
bers of small birds, resembling the 
English -wheatear, and called in 
Italian Beccafichi, are caught daily 
on the plain near this town. Orto¬ 
lans also abound in southern Italy. 

A Tuscan barrel of wine contains 
twenty flasks, and a barrel of oil 
sixteen flasks. Wood is sold by the 
catastre , the dimensions of which 
should be these : length ,bracelet six; 
breadth, braccia one and a half; 
height, braccia two. 

A public carriage goes daily from 
Leghorn to Pisa. 

Public boats likewise go daily by 
means of the Canal, and the pas¬ 
sage-money in these vessels is six 
crazio, or at most one paul for each 
person. The price of a private boat 
is from ten to twelve livres; and the 


* The man who milks the ass usually mix with the milk so expertly that it is 

carries, Under his cloak, a bottle tilled with difficult to detect him. 

hot water; some of which he contrives to 


Ch. IV.] ITALY 

\ 

price of one place in the Diligence, 
from Leghorn to Florence, thirty 
pauls. 

It is not advisable for Travellers 
to hire a country-residence near 
Leghorn, its environs being rec¬ 
koned unwholesome. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER-COURIERS. 

Sunday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from all parts of 'Pus- 
cany, Elba, Lucca, Naples, Sicily, 
Rome, Lombardy, Venice, Switzer¬ 
land, Germany, and Trieste, and all 
northern Europe. 

Monday afternoon from Pisa, Pie- 
trasanta, Lucca, Massa, Piedmont, 
Genoa, France, Spain, and Portugal. 

Wednesday, at seven in the morn¬ 
ing, from the same places as on 
Sunday, Elba excepted. 

Wednesday afternoon from the 
same places as on Monday; and 
likewise from Great Britain. 

Friday, at seven in the morning, 
from all parts of Tuscany, Elba, 
Lucca, Rome, Naples, Lombardy, 
Venice, and Trieste. 

Friday afternoon, from France, 
Great Britain, Spain, and Portugal, 
Piedmont, Genoa, Lucca, Pisa, and 
Pietrasanta. 

Monday, at half past six in the 
evening, go letters for all parts of 
Tuscany, Elba, Lucca, Naples, and 
Sicily, Rome, Lombardy, Venice, 
Switzerland, Germany, and all north¬ 
ern Europe. 

Tuesday, at half past seven in the 
evening, go letters for Pisa, Pietra¬ 
santa, Massa, Lucca, Piedmont, Ge¬ 
noa, France, Great Britain, ( via 
France,) Spain, and Portugal. 

Wednesday, at half past seven in 
the evening, go letters for all parts 
of Tuscany, Lucca, and Rome. 

Thursday, at half past seven in the 
evening, go letters to the same places 
as on Tuesday. 

Friday, at half past seven in the 
evening, go letters to the same places 
as on Monday. 

Saturday ,’ at half past seven in 


—PISA. SC.5 

the evening, go letters to Pisa, Lucca, 
Pietrasanta, Massa, Piedmont, Ge¬ 
noa, France, Great Britain, Spain, 
and Portugal, via France. 

Letters are usually delivered about 
nine in the morning; and must be 
put into the post-oliice before five 
in the evening, and franked for every 
place beyond Tuscany. 

PISA. 

A custom-house officer follows 
Travellers to their inn, or lodging, 
when they enter Pisa, and expects a 
fee of five pauls. A band of mu¬ 
sicians likewise waits upon Strangers 
at their arrival, and expects from 
three to five pauls. 

BEST LODGING-HOUSES. AVERAGE 
PRICE IN WINTER. 

Casa-Agostini, Lung’ Arno, No. 
722, about twenty sequins per month. 
—Casa-Bertolli, Lung’ Arno, No. 
721, large and handsome apartments, 
a third floor, about thirteen sequins 
a month.—No. 742, Via-Corraia; 
rooms small, but neat, and sufficient 
in number for two persons; price 
moderate.—t ’asa- Lenzi, Lung’ Arno, 
about twenty sequins a month.—No. 
951, Via di Sapienza, two suites of 
handsome apartments. — No. 694, 
Lung’ Arno; one suite of good apart¬ 
ments; thirty sequins a month.—• 
Marble Palace, Lung 5 Arno, fine 
apartments.—Casa-Chiesa, a good 
apartment.—Casa-Rau, fine apart¬ 
ments.—Casa-Panichi, Lung’ Arno, 
No. 716, a neat apartment on the first 
floor, large enough for three persons. 
—No. 887, Via S. Maria, fourteen 
well-furnished rooms, and a small 
garden; twenty sequins a month, if 
taken for half a year. All these 
lodging-houses are well situated for 
Invalids: other apartments, which 
have not this advantage, let at a 
much lower price. Rooms sufficient 
to accommodate a moderate sized 
family may usually be hired at The 
Tre Donzelle for about twenty se¬ 
quins a month. The price of every 
lodging, however, varies from year 


3C6 

to year, according to the number of 
Foreigners. The hire of linen per 
month is generally about five sequins 
for a large family; but linen and plate 
are commonly found by the owners 
of lodging-houses. 

Boxes at the Theatre may be pro¬ 
cured on very moderate terms; ex¬ 
cept it be during the last week of 
Carnival, when the price is con¬ 
siderably augmented. The entrance- 
money paid by English Travellers, 
exclusive of the hire of a box, is 
two pauls. 

The hire of a carriage and horses, 
coachman’s wages inclusive, is from 
eighteen to twenty sequins a month ; 
and the price for an airing, buona- 
mano inclusive, is ten pauls. 

The wages of a Housemaid, 
throughout southern Italy, is about 
three crowns a month and a dinner; 
she finding herself in lodging, bread 
and wine—the wages of a Footman 
from four to eight crowns and a din¬ 
ner; he finding himself in bread and 
wine—the wages of a Housemaid 
who finds herself in bed and board, 
and fetches Fountain-water, is at 
Pisa one lira per day*—and the 
wages of a good Cook, throughout 
southern Italy, is from ten to twelve 
crowns per month and a dinner; he 
finding himself in lodging, bread 
and wine, and an Assistant to wash 
saucepans, dishes, e^ct. 

The price of dinner, per head, at 
a Restaurateur 1 s, table-wine and 
bread inclusive, is from three to 
five pauls. 

Families who have their dinner 
daily from a Traiteur should not 
order it per head, but per dish; spe¬ 
cifying the kind of dinner they wish 
for, and the price they choose to give. 

There are various sorts of fire¬ 
wood at Pisa: that called legna 
dolce is the most wholesome; though 

* By Fountain-Water is meant that con¬ 
veyed to Pisa through the Aqueduct. 

t It is an excellent general rule, either 
not to let your cook market for you, or to 
limit him to a certain sum for dinner, char¬ 
coal, and kitchen-tire-wood : but English 
Travellers, who are accompanied by honest 


[Ch. IV'. 

it consumes very quick : that called 
legna forte is usually burnt in kit¬ 
chens ; but may be mixed with the 
other, for parlour-consumption; 
though I would not advise the burn¬ 
ing it in bed-rooms. Venders of 
wood frequently cheat in the mea¬ 
sure, either by bringing a braccio 
to measure with not so long as the 
law directs, or by placing the wood 
hollow, and thus making it appear 
more than it is. 

The husks of olives serve for fuel, 
and are an excellent substitute for 
charcoal, and in olive-countries very 
cheap. 

Invalids always find it necessary 
to mat their rooms during winter, in 
order to avoid the chill which strikes 
to the soles of the feet from brick 
and marble floors. Mats of all 
lengths may be purchased on the 
Quay; the price is half a paul the 
braccio ; and every mat ought to be 
two braccia and a half wide. 

The, Pisa-market is, generally 
speaking, a good one : though fresh 
fish can never be absolutely de¬ 
pended upon but on Fridays, unless 
it be in Lent. The best fishes are 
the dory, called pesce di S. Pietro; 
the grey and the red mullet, called 
triglia; the turbot, called rombo ; 
the tunny, called t.onno; the lam¬ 
prey, called lampredo; sturgeon, 
called storione ; ombrina , pesce-ca- 
vallo, spadci, dentici, par ago, (all five 
peculiar, I believe, to the Mediterra¬ 
nean ;) the sole, called sogliola; the 
Mediterranean lobster, called gam- 
bero del mare ; prawns and shrimps. 
The fish which comes from Via 
Reggio is generally excellent. The 
tench and carp at Pisa are remarka¬ 
bly fine; so likewise are the pike, 
and other fishes, of the Arno and 
Serchiof. The mutton of Pistoja, 
which may frequently be purchased 

English servants, always find it answer to 
let those Servants market for them. 

} What Italians deem the best fishes are 
distinguished by the appellation of Pesce 
Nobile s the ta.-te of Englishmen, however, 
does not exactly agree with that of the 
Italians in this particular. 


APPENDIX. 


ITALY—PISA. 


367 


Ch. IV.] 

at Pisa, is excellent in point of fla¬ 
vour, and particularly light of di¬ 
gestion. The Lucca-veal, frequently 
sold at Pisa, is excellent. Beef and 
pork are very line; turkeys good; 
capons and fowls indifferent; hares 
excellent; other game plentiful, but 
not always so well flavoured as in 
England. Wild-fowl good and plen¬ 
tiful. Venison may be purchased 
both in spring and autumn, but is 
reckoned best during the latter sea¬ 
son. Wild-boar may be purchased 
during winter and spring. With re¬ 
spect to vegetables, the broccoli 
and salads are particularly good; 
but vegetables in Italy, salad ex¬ 
cepted, should, generally speaking, 
be stewed, or they may probably 
disagree with weak stomachs. Pisa 
is well supplied with grapes, figs, 
pears, apples, and other winter- 
fruits, the best of which come from 
Florence and Pistoja. The butter 
made at the royal Cascina is excel¬ 
lent*. Good cows’ milk and cream 
may be purchased at the above- 
named Cascina. Good oil may be 
bought at some of the palaces; as 
every Tuscan nobleman sells the 
produce of his olive-gardens and 
vineyards. With respect to table- 
wine, that of Pisa is unwholesome ; 
but that of Florence may easily be 
procured by water-carriage, and is 
not only pleasant to the taste, but 
salutary to most constitutions.— 
There are several kinds of Florence- 
wine; and that usually drank as com¬ 
mon table-beverage, costs from a 
paul and a half to two pauls the flask. 

Scales and weights are necessary 
articles of kitchen-furniture in Italy. 

Persons who wish to be instructed 
in music, drawing, and the Italian 
and French languages, may procure 
good masters, upon moderate terms, 
at Pisa. 

The common fee to medical men 
is a scudo from Foreigners; though 
the natives give much less. Some 
of the English Travellers give a se¬ 
quin a visit to Italian physicians. 


Caso - Mecherini, the principal 
banking-house at Pisa, will supply 
Foreigners with money; but it is 
more advantageous to procure it at 
Leghorn. 

The price of common shoes is 
eight pauls the pair, whether for 
men or women. 

The price for making a man’s suit 
of clothes about twenty pauls, all 
charges inclusive. 

The price for making a Lady’s 
dress nine or ten pauls, beside body¬ 
lining. 

Sig. Antonio Peverata, Bookseller, 
No. 694, Lung 5 Arno, is an honest 
man, and very useful to Foreigners. 

Pisa may be called a cheap place 
for permanent residence; as may 
Pistoja, Florence, and Siena; be¬ 
cause, supposing the exchange in 
favour of England, (which it com¬ 
monly is throughout Tuscany,) a 
moderate sized family might, in any 
of the above-named cities, live hand¬ 
somely for six hundred pounds ster¬ 
ling per annum; and even large 
families who visit Italy, either for 
the purpose of educating their chil¬ 
dren, or of travelling from place to 
place in search of amusement, will 
not, if they know how to avoid im¬ 
position, And their disbursements 
exceed one thousand pounds sterling 
per annum. For the purpose of 
education better masters may usually 
be procured at Florence than in any 
other Italian city. 

Sunday morning arrive letters 
from Florence, and other parts of 
Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bo¬ 
logna, northern Italy, Switzerland, 
Germany, the kingdom of the Ne¬ 
therlands, Denmark, Sweden, Po¬ 
land, and Russia. 

Monday evening from Genoa, 
France, Spain, Piedmont, Massa, 
Carrara, Lucca, and Leghorn. 

Tuesday evening from Piombino, 
Porto Ferrajo, Lucca, and Leghorn. 

Wednesday morning from Flo¬ 
rence, and other parts of Tuscany, 
Rome, Naples, Bologna, northern 


* Tiiis butter supplies the Roman Markets, and suffers very little from its journey. 


APPENDIX. 


308 

Italy, Switzerland, Germany, the Ne¬ 
therlands, Denmark, Sweden, Po¬ 
land, and Russia. 

Wednesday evening from Lucca, 
and Leghorn, Genoa, France, and 
Great Britain. 

Thursday evening from Lucca. 

Friday morning from Florence, 
and other parts of Tuscany; Rome, 
Bologna, Ferrara, Ancona, Venice, 
fyc., Genoa, France, Spain, Great 
Britain, Piedmont, Massa, and Car¬ 
rara . 

Friday evening from Piombino, 
Porloferrajo, Lucca, and Leghorn. 

Saturday evening from Lucca and 
Leghorn. 

Monday evening go letters for Flo¬ 
rence, and other parts of Tuscany, 
Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bologna, 
northern Italy, Switzerland, Ger¬ 
many, the Netherlands, Denmark, 
Sweden, Poland, Russia, Piombino, 
Portoferrajo, Leghorn, and Lucca. 

Tuesday evening go letters for 
Genoa, France, Spain, Great Britain, 
Piedmont, Massa, Carrara, Lucca, 
and Leghorn. 

Wednesday evening go letters for 
Florence, and other parts of Tus¬ 
cany; Rome, Naples, Bologna, Fer¬ 
rara, Ancona, Venice, and Lucca. 

Thursday evening go letters for 
Leghorn, Lucca, Genoa, France, and 
Great Britain. 

Friday evening go letters for Flo¬ 
rence, and other parts of Tuscany; 
Rome, Naples, and Sicily, Bologna, 
northern Italy,Switzerland, Germany, 
the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden, 
Poland, Russia, Piombino, Porto¬ 
ferrajo, and Lucca. 

Saturday evening go letters for 
Genoa, France, Spain, Great Britain, 
Piedmont, Massa, Carrara, Lucca, 
and Leghorn. 

Letters must be put into the Post- 
office before five in the afternoon, 
and franked for every place, except 
Florence and Leghorn. The price 
for franking a single letter to Eng¬ 
land is six crazie. 

The price of one place in the Dili¬ 
gence from Pisa to Florence is one 
sequin. 


[Ch. IV. 

Persons going from Pisa to Flo¬ 
rence had better not have their bag¬ 
gage plumbed, it being necessary 
either to undergo an examination, or 
present the custom-house officers in 
the latter city with five or ten pauls, 
according to the quantity and quali¬ 
ty of the luggage. 

FLORENCE. 

The best Hotels, and some of the 
best private Lodging-houses in Italy 
are to be found at Florence; and the 
price of good apartments, compared 
with the prices at Rome and Naples, 
is not exorbitant. 

LODGING-HOUSES. AVERAGE 
PRICE IN WINTER. 

Palazzo S. Clemente, Via S. Bas- 
tiano, two suites of handsome apart¬ 
ments, each thirty sequins a month; 
a good garden ; and the warmest si¬ 
tuation in Florence—Palazzo-Strozzi, 
Via della Scala, a fine house, and 
beautiful garden; sixty sequins a 
month—Palazzo-Corsi, Via-Ghibel- 
lina, two suites of apartments, each 
thirty sequins for one month only; 
but less if taken for a longer term—- 
Palazzo-Quaratesi, Via d’ogni Santi, 
one set of apartments, forty-five se¬ 
quins a month ; another set, twenty- 
eight ditto—Casa-Pucci, opposite 
the Teatro-Goldoni, is a good lodg¬ 
ing—The Palazzo Acciaioli, Lung’ 
Arno, contains several apartments—• 
Casa-Riccasoli, Lung’ Arno, is a 
pretty house for a small family : and 
in the Piazza S. Maria Novella, 
and several other parts of the city, 
small apartments may be easily met 
with. 

Plate and linen are generally found 
in the lodgings at Florence; but, if 
not found, the hire of linen for a 
large family is about five sequins a 
month. Noble apartments unfur¬ 
nished may be hired by the year for, 
comparatively speaking, nothing. 

As the Tuscans take no pains to 
advertise their vacant apartments, 
and it is consequently difficult to dis¬ 
cover them, Travellers would do 


ITALY—FLORENCE. 


369 


Ch. IV.] 

well to apply for information at the 
shops of Molini, Meggit, and Town- 

lev. 

m 

Board and lodging for a Lady, or 
Gentleman, in an Italian family, tea 
and foreign wine not inclusive, 
usually costs about fifteen sequins a 
month: and at the house of Madame 
Merveilleux du Plantis, which con¬ 
tains good apartments, comfortably 
furnished, boarc^ and lodging, tea, 
and common table wine inclusive, 
costs, for a Lady, or Gentleman, by 
the year, fifty pounds sterling; by 
the half year, thirty pounds; by 
the quarter, twenty pounds; per 
month, seven pounds; and per 
week, two pounds. Since the first 
part of this work was printed, Ma¬ 
dame du Plantis has removed from 
No. 4380, to No. 4245, Piazza S. 
Maria Novella. 

At the H6t,el de.s Armes d’ An¬ 
gle terre, kept by Gasperini, a Fa¬ 
mily, consisting of four masters and 
four servants, may have a good apart¬ 
ment, breakfast, excellent dinners, 
tea, wax-lights, and night-lamps, for 
eighty francesconi a w r eek* : and the 
master of the Locanda di S. Luigi 
(by name Luigi Falugi) will supply 
four Masters and four Servants with 
breakfast, dinner, a good dessert, 
and two bottles of table-wine, to¬ 
gether with milk and butter for tea, 
at five scudi a day. 

The price, per head, for breakfast 
at a Coffee-house is about one paulf, 
and the price, per head, for dinner, 
at the house of a Restaurateur, or at 
a table d'hote, is from three to five 
pauls, table-w ine inclusive. 

The price, per month, for a good 
carriage and horses, coachman’s 
wages inclusive, is from twenty to 
twenty-five sequins, according to the 
expense of provender. 

Inn-lceepers usually charge for their 
carriages, by the day, about twenty 
pauls. 

Provisions, in general, are good ; 

* Anti-attrition grease may be purchased 
of Gasperini for five pauls a pot. 


though fresh fish can only be pro¬ 
cured on Fridays and Saturdays. 
Figs, peaches, water-melons, and 
grapes are, in their respective seasons, 
excellent. Good cows’ milk and 
good butter are not to be obtained 
without difficulty; asses’ milk is ex¬ 
cellent ; and the w ine made in the 
neighbourhood of Florence is pa¬ 
latable and wholesome : the best 
sorts, called Vino Santo, Leatico, and 
Artimino, come from the vicinity of 
Fiesole ; where the oil, likewise, is 
particularly good. Ice (or more pro¬ 
perly speaking frozen snow) costs 
two pauls and a half per every hun¬ 
dred pounds. 

The best medicines are sold at the 
Farmacia Form ini, in the Piazza del 
Granduca; and by the Grand Duke’s 
A pothecary. 

The usual price of butchers’ meat 
is from 0 . #e to cix crazie the pound— 
the usual price of the best bread 
about four crazie the pound—a turkey 
costs from five to ten pauls, accord¬ 
ing to its size; a fow l from one 
lira to three pauls—partridges from 
four to six pauls the brace—a bec- 
cafico from three to five crazie—an 
ortolan from six crazie to a paul— 
and the best table wine from a lira 
to two pauls per ilask. 

Sig. Giuseppe Molini, Bookseller, 
has an English Reading Room, and 
a shop containing English books, 
paper, pens, pencils, S;c., in Via 
Archibusieri ; and a much better 
Library at No. 823, Piazza di S. 
Maria in Campo; where he likewise 
has a Printing Office. Meggit, in 
the Piazza del Duomo, sells good 
Foreign wine, porter, tea, English 
medicines, &;c. His black tea is 
twelve pauls a pound ; his green tea 
sixteen pauls. Townley, in the Pa- 
lazzo-Ferroni, S. Trinita, likewise 
sells English goods. One of the best 
Grocers is Caroli, Via della Croce: 
his Levant-coffee is from twenty-two 
crazie to three pauls the pound ; his 

t Every cup of coffee usually costs two 
crazie ; every cup of chocolate something 
more. 

2 B 


370 


APPENDIX. 


West-Indian coffee two pauls the 
pound. The best Silk-mercer is 
Borgogni, near the Piazza del Gran- 
duca. Florence silks are of various 
qualities ;. one sort being from nine 
to ten pauls the braccio; another 
from six to seven ; and the slightest 
from three to five pauls, according to 
the weight. The best linen-drapers’ 
shops are kept by Jews, near the 
Mercato nuovo. Shoes and boots 
are, generally speaking, better made 
at Florence than in any other part of 
Italy : the usual price charged for 
the former is eight pauls the pair; 
and for the latter from thirty to forty 
pauls. Florentine Taylors charge 
for making a man’s suit of clothes 
from twenty to twenty-five pauls. 
Ladies Dress-makers usually charge 
twelve pauls for making a trimmed 
dress, and nine for making a plain 
one. There are several good Coach- 
makers at Florence. Pestellini, Mo¬ 
ney-changer, near the Piazza del 
Duomo, will supply Travellers who 
are going to Rome with dollars and 
Roman scudi at a lower price than 
they are current for in the Ecclesias¬ 
tical State. Fire-wood at Florence 
is from thirty-five to thirty-eight 
pauls the catastre; and charcoal 
from three to four pauls a sack. 

Fees to medical Men are much the 
same as at Pisa: and the sum given 
to a Notary-public, for his seal and 
attestation, is ten pauls. 

A box at the Pergola may gene¬ 
rally be obtained for fifteen, or, at 
most, twenty pauls; but every British 
Traveller pays three pauls for ad- 

* Travellers who purchase alabaster, for 
the purpose of having it sent to Great 
Britain by sea, should deal with the Bro¬ 
thers Pisani; as their punctuality may be 
relied on. 

f Washerwomen in Tuscany commonly 
charge for washing and ironing as follows ; 

Sheets, per pair . . . crazie 12 

Pillow-cases, each . . .1 

Tat.le-cloth, if large ... 6 

Napkin.1 

Towel.1 

Shirt, if plain, crazie 6 ; if frilled . 7 

Shift.4 

Drawers.4 

Pantaloons .... 8 


[Ch. IV. 

mission, beside the expense of the 
box. At the Cocomero, and the 
Teatro-nuovo, boxes usually cost 
from eight to twelve pauls; and 
every British Traveller pays, for ad¬ 
mission at these theatres, two pauls 
over and above the price of a box. 

The best Music-Masters charge 
ten pauls a lesson; other Masters 
do not charge more than five. Sig. 
Morani teaches Italian remarkably 
well. 

The most distinguished Sculptors 
are Ricci, Bartolini, and the Bro¬ 
thers Pisani*. 

Gulflocher, in Borgo-Ogni Santi, 
No. 3951, sells alabaster. 

Ermini is a good Painter; and 
may usually be found at the Royal 
Academy. 

Bankers at Florence give the same 
exchange, and nearly the same agio, 
as at Leghorn. Messrs. Donat Orsi, 
and Co., in the Piazza del Granduca, 
are honourable in their dealings, 
and very obliging to Foreigners; as 
is Sig. Sebastiano Kleiber, in Via- 
Larga. 

The best Padrone di vetfure at 
Florence is Balzani, who may always 
be heard of at the Aquila Nera: his 
horses and mules are good; and his 
drivers remarkably civil t. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF 
LETTER-COURIERS. 

Monday, at nine in the morning, 
arrive letters from Arezzo, Cortona, 
and Castiglion Fiorentino. 

Tuesday, about the same time, ar¬ 
rive letters from Great Britain,France, 


Corset.5 

Pocket handkerchief . . . 1 

Neck-cloth . . * . . 1 

Kitchen-apron .... 2 

Pockets, per pair .... 2 

Sleeping waistcoat ... 4 

Night-cap, if not trimmed . . 2 

Silk-stockings, per pair . . 4 

Cotton-stockings, per pair . . 2 

Plain white dresses, each . . 16 

Petticoats, each .... 8 


Persons who wish to be economical in 
Italy should have their linen washed out of 
the house, and ironed at home. 

Francesca Lambardi, in the Piazza-San 
Spirito, No. 2079 , is a good laundress. 




S71 


ITALY—FLORENCE. 


Ch. IV.] 

Piedmont, Switzerland, Genoa, 
Spain, Sarzana, Pietrasanta, Pisa, 
Leghorn, Lucca, Massa, Piombino, 
Portoferrajo, Perugia, Cortona, 
Arezzo, »$’e. Rome, Viterbo, Siena, 
Poggibonsi, Prato, Pistoja, Pescia, 
and Volterra: 

And Tuesday, about noon, arrive 
letters from Germany, Russia, Prus¬ 
sia, Holland, Trieste, Venice, upper 
Italy and Bologna. 

Thursday, at nine in the morning, 
arrive letters from Great-Britain, 
France, Piedmont, Switzerland, Ge¬ 
noa, Spain, Sarzana, Pietrasanta, 
Pisa, Leghorn, Lucca, Massa, Piom¬ 
bino, Portoferrajo, the kingdom of 
Naples, Rome, Perugia, Cortona, 
Arezzo, S)'c. Siena, Poggibonsi, Prato, 
Pistoja, and Pescia: 

And, about noon, arrive letters 
from Bologna, Ferrara, and Ancona. 

Saturday, at nine in the morning, 
arrive letters from Great-Britain, 
France, Piedmont, Switzerland, Ge¬ 
noa, Spain, Sarzana, Pietrasanta, 
Pisa, Leghorn, Lucca, Massa, Piom¬ 
bino, Portoferrajo, the kingdom of 
Naples, Rome, Viterbo, Siena, Pog¬ 
gibonsi, Prato, Pistoja, and Pescia . 

And, about noon, arrive letters 
from Germany, Russia, Prussia, 
Holland, Switzerland, Trieste, Ve¬ 
nice, upper Italy, and Bologna. 

Tuesday, at one o’clock post-me¬ 
ridian, go letters for Germany, Rus¬ 
sia, Prussia, Holland, Switzerland, 
Trieste, upper Italy, and Bologna. 

And, at five o’clock, post-meridian, 
go letters for Poggibonsi, Siena, Vi¬ 
terbo, Rome, and the kingdom of 
Naples, Great-Britain,France, Spain, 
Piedmont, Genoa, Sarzana, Massa, 
Lucca, Pietrasanta, Pisa, Leghorn, 
Arezzo, Cortona, Castiglion Fioren- 
tino, Prato, Pistoja, Pescia, and Vol- 
terra. 

Thursday, at one o’clock post¬ 
meridian, go letters for Great-Britain, 
France, Spain, Piedmont, Genoa, 
Sarzana, Massa, and Pietrasanta: 

And, at five o’clock post-meridian, 
* for Bologna, Ferrara, Ancona, Por¬ 
toferrajo, Lucca, Pisa, Leghorn, 


Arezzo, Cortona, $'c. Perugia, Rome, 
the kingdom of Naples, Siena, Pis¬ 
toja, Prato, and Volterra. 

Saturday, at one o’clock post-me¬ 
ridian, go letters for Germany, Rus¬ 
sia, Prussia, Holland, Switzerland, 
Trieste, upper Italy, Bologna, Great- 
Britain, France, Spain, Piedmont, 
Genoa, Sarzana, Massa, and Pietra¬ 
santa : 

And, at five o’clock post-meridian, 
for Poggibonsi, Siena, Viterbo, 
Rome, the kingdom of Naples, 
Arezzo, Cortona, Sfc. Perugia, Leg¬ 
horn, Pisa, Piombino, Portoferrajo, 
Lucca, Pistoja, Prato, and Pescia. 

Letters for every country, Tus¬ 
cany excepted, must be franked, 
and put into the Post-Oftice before 
noon, every day except Saturday, 
when they are received till three 
o’clock. 

COUNTRY-HOUSES NEAR FLORENCE. 

Villa-Mattei, near the Porta S. 
Gallo, a large house. 

Villa del Cav. Gerini, on the Bo¬ 
logna-road ; a good house, well fur¬ 
nished, and delightfully situated. 

Villa-Vitelli, at Fiesole, healthy 
and cool. 

Villa-Baroni, at Fiesole, ditto, 
but in too elevated a situation for 
weak lungs. 

Palazza-Bruciarto, near the Porta 
S. Gallo, an excellent house, in rather 
too warm a situation for summer. 

Villa-Careggi de’Medici, a most 
excellent house, in a cool, dry, and 
healthy situation. 

Villa del Nero, at Majano, a most 
excellent house, equally well si¬ 
tuated. 

There are, in the neighbourhood 
of Fiesole, several other Villas, 
which might be hired from Mid¬ 
summer till the commencement of 
the vintage: as the Tuscans seldom 
occupy their country-houses till the 
end of September, when the vintage 
begins. From twenty to thirty se¬ 
quins a month, plate and linen in¬ 
clusive, is the highest price de¬ 
manded for the best Tuscan Villas. 

2 B 2 


872 


CHAPTER V. 

ROME, NAPLES, AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

Money of Rome'—Bankers'accounts—Pound-weight — Measures—Hotels and other 
Lodging-houses—Best water—Best air—Prices of the best Lodgings—Prices charged 
by Traiteurs — Price of dinner per head at the houses of Restaurateurs—of break¬ 
fast at a Coffee-house — of Job-carriages and horses — Expense of .keeping your 
own carriage—Hackney-coaches — Wages of a Valet-de-place—Fire-wood—Butchers’ 
meat, wild fowl, poultry, fish, and other eatables—Tallow candles—Charcoal— 
Best markets for fruit and vegetables—Wines of the country—Foreign wines—Best 
Confectioner — Oil—Honey —Tea — Grocers—Rum—Best Wax-candles—Medicines— 
Woollen cloth—Furs — Roman pearls—Silk Mercer—Milliner—Language Master— 
Music Masters—Dancing Masters—Drawing Masters—Ancient bronzes, 4 'C-—Sulphurs 
—Roman Mosaics—Scajuola, and paintings all’Encausto—Bronze lamps, and silver 
plate—Stationer—Manuscript music—Prints and Drawings—English writing paper, and 
English books—Circulating Library—Calcogratia Camerale —Fees to medical Men — 
Theatres—price of boxes—Unfurnished apartments—Brocaccio from Rome to Naples 
—Best Roman Vetturino—Post-Office—Neapolitan Territories—Passports — Fees to 
Custom-house Officer*—Money of Naples—Exchange—Common Neapolitan measure, 
pound-weight, and rotolo—Hotels and other Lodging houses at Naples—Job carriages— 
Expense of keeping your own carriage —of keeping a saddle-horse—Hackney carriages 
—Wages of a Valet-dc-place—of a Cook—Mode in which persons who keep their own 
cook should order dinner—Price of unfurnished Apartments—Price usually paid by Fa¬ 
milies who have their dinner from a Traiteur—Price per head for dinner at a Restaura¬ 
teur's—of breakfast at a Coffee-house—of Butchers’ meat, fish, poultry, and cheese, 
bread, oil, butter, Sorrento hams, tea, coffee, sugar, ice, and wines made in the Neapo¬ 
litan territories—Firewood, charcoal, wax and tallow candles—English Warehouses— 
Naples silks, gauzes, ribands, 4 'C-—Sorrento silk stockings—Musical instrument strings 
—Circulating Library— Borel’s Library—Stationer—Coachmaker—English Medical 
Men—Music Master—dancing Master—Price of boxes at the Theatres—Arrival and 
departure of Letter-Couriers and Procacci—Expense of franking letters, 4 t\—Piano di 
Sorrento—Price of Lodging-houses—Provisions —Oil, milk, wineof Sorrento and Capti 
—Charcoal and fire-wood—Clotted cream—Quails—Articles not found at Sorrento— 
Boats which go daily from Sorrento to Naples and return the same evening—Passage- 
money—Meta-boats— Best method of conveying a large Family from Naples to Sor¬ 
rento—Post-office—Sorrento recommended as a cheap place for permanent residence—■ 
Physician there—Comparative view of Family-expenses in various parts of the Conti¬ 
nent. 


ROME. 

MONEY OF ROME. 

Doppia . . worth thirty-two paoli and 
one bajoccho. 

Scudo .... ten paoli. 

Mezzo-Scttdo . . live paoli. 

Pi ece of three paoli. 

Piece of two paoli. 

Piece of one paolo. 

Mezzo-Paolo. 

Jlajoccho, worth the tenth part of a 
puolo. 

The old Louis-d’or is current at 
Rome for forty-four pauls—the Na¬ 
poleon for thirty-seven pauls—and 
the Spanish dollar for ten pauls. 

Bankers’ accounts are kept in 
pauls. 


The Roman pound - weight is 
twelve ounces ; the Roman canna 
is. about two yards and a quarter 
English measure; and the Roman 
mercantile palmo is between nine 
and ten English inches. 

HOTELS AND OTHER LODGING- 
HOUSES. 

I have already mentioned the 
names of the principal Hotels at 
Rome. The Masters of these Hotels, 
however, will seldom receive Tra¬ 
vellers lor less than a week: but at 
the Gran Vascello, in Via-Condotti, 
accommodations may be obtained 
by the night. The price of large 


378 


Ch. V.] ITALY—ROME—LODGING-HOUSES, 8fc. 


apartments at the principal Hotels 
is seldom less than a Louis-d’cr per 
day. The charges for breakfast, 
dinner, and servants’ board, are 
much the same as at Florence. 

Almost every house in the Piazza 
di Spagna contains apartmentswhich 
are let to Foreigners; and the best 
of these apartments are in the Casa- 
Rinaldini. Via-San Bastianello, con¬ 
tains good lodgings; as does the 
house called Margariti’s, and si¬ 
tuated on the ascent to the Trinity 
de’ Monti. The Palazzo-Negroni is 
an excellent lodging-house. Via- 
Babuino, Via della Croce, Via- 
Condotti, Via-Frattina, and Via de’ 
due Macelli, contain several lodg¬ 
ings; as do Via-Vittoria, Via-Pon- 
tefici, Via-Condotti, and Via-Bocca 
di Lione: the Palazzo-Canino, in the 
last-named street, is one of the best 
lodging-houses at Rome. The Pa- 
lazzo-Gavotti, the Palazzo-Fiano, 
and the new part of the Palazzo- 
Sciarra, (all on the Corso,) contain 
good accommodations; as do the 
Piazza-Colonna, and the Palazzo- 
Cardella, near Via di Ripetta; in 
which street, likewise, several lodg¬ 
ings may be met with. The Piazza 
de’ Santi Apostoli contains good 
apartments. The Palazzo-Sceva, 
and the Palazzo-Collicola, near the 
Forum of Trajan, contain good 
apartments; as does the Palazzo- 
Maggi, near the Capitol. No. 152, 
Via-Rasella, is a large well situated 
house; as is Casa-Giorgio, in the 
Lavatore del Papa. The Palazetto- 
Albani, and ihe Villa-Miollis, are 
good houses; but unwliolesomely 
situated; especially the latter. 

The best water at Rome is that of 

* Persons who are not anxious to live in 
that part of Rome which the English 
usually prefer, would do well to seek 
apartments in the Strada-Giulia; where the 
rent of two or three good rooms is not 
more than from ten to twelve scudi a 
month. 

t Four or five dishes, sufficiently large to 
supply four Masters and four Seivants 
with a plentiful dinner, bread and dessert 


the Fontana di Trevi, and the Piazza 
di Spagna ; the best air, that of the 
centre of the Corso, the Piazza di 
Spagna, the Trinita de’ Monti, the 
environs of the Fontana di Trevi, 
and the Foro-Trajano, and its en¬ 
virons. The price lately given for 
the best apartments at Rome, plate 
and linen inclusive, has been from 
thirty to fifty Louis-d’ors a month. 
Large and well-situated lodgings 
"Siay, however, be procured for about 
eighty scudi a month; and small 
apartments for half that sum *. The 
best Traiteurs usually charge Eng¬ 
lish Families ten pauls a head for 
dinner, bread and wine not inclu¬ 
sive ; and this dinner usually fur¬ 
nishes the servants with more than 
they can eat: but (as I have already 
mentioned,) persons who get their 
dinner from a Traiteur , should not 
order it per head, but per dish f. 
The Traiteur near the Palazzo-Sci- 
arra, on the Corso, will supply one 
person with dinner for five pauls: 
and at the houses of Restaurateurs 
in general a gentleman may be found 
in dinner, bread, and table-wine, for 
five pauls $. Breakfast at a Coffee¬ 
house usually costs about one paul, 
and the charge for every cup of coffee 
is two baiocchi. 

The price, per month, for a good 
carriage and horses, coachman’s 
wages inclusive, is from sixty to se¬ 
venty scudi, according to the ex¬ 
pense of provender. The price per 
day, from twenty-four to twenty-five 
pauls—and for four hours, either 
morning or evening, twelve pauls. 
A good carriage and horses may fre¬ 
quently be purchased for about one 
hundred pounds sterling; and the 

not inclusive, usually cost from twenty- 
live to thirty pauls. 

I At the Palazzo-Fiano, in the Corso, 
there is a Restaurateur, who serves at a 
fixed price per portion, as is done at Paris ; 
his charge for a plate of good soup being 
baiocchi 2^—a plate of bouillie, with ve¬ 
getables, baiocchi 7 £—a plate of roasted 
meat, ditto—a plate of common fruit 2 or 
3 baiocchi; and a foglietta of good table- 
wine from 8 to 10 baiocchi. 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. V, 


374 

expense of keeping them, coach¬ 
man’s and footman’s wages, with 
grease for wheels, inclusive, is about 
twenty-six scudi per month. A 
coachman’s wages is eight scudi per 
month, he finding grease and oil ; 
.and a footman’s wages six scudi per 
month. They expect liveries once 
a year. 

Hackney carriages may usually be 
hired for four pauls an hour, in the 
Piazza di Monte Citorio. 

The wages of a Valet-de-Place is 
from four to five pauls a day, he find¬ 
ing himself in every thing. 

Fire-wood is sold by the cart-load, 
which, during winter, usually costs 
about twenty-eight pauls,without car¬ 
riage and porterage, and this amounts 
to from five to eight pauls more, ac¬ 
cording to where the wood is taken. 
The best wood may generally be ob¬ 
tained at the Ripetta. 

Rome is better supplied with eat¬ 
ables than any other city in Italy. 
The average price of the best beef 
is from seven to eight baiocchi a 
pound—gravy-beef, from five to six 
baiocchi—mutton, from six to eight 
baiocchi—lamb, six baiocchi—veal, 
from ten to twenty baiocchi—kid, 
ten baiocchi—excellent pork, from 
six to six and a half baiocchi—ex¬ 
cellent wild-boar, from five to six 
baiocchi—wood-cocks, from twenty 
to twenty-five baiocchi each—a wild 
goose, from four to five pauls-—wild 
ducks, ditto, per brace—widgeons 
each, about fifteen baiocchi-—-and 
teale, about one paul—partridges, 
from twenty-five baiocchi to four 
pauls each — small chickens, two 
pauls each—large fowls, three pauls 
each—hares, from three to four pauls 
each—rabbits, twenty-five baiocchi 
each — capons, forty-five baiocchi 
each— turkies (the best poultry in 
Italy,) ten baiocchi a pound, and 
sometimes less—tame ducks, each 
two pauls—pigeons, ditto—quails, 
each four baiocchi—beccafichi, from 
three to four baiocchi each—orto- 

* The carp brought from the Lake of Al- 
bauo to the Roman fish-market, sometimes 


Ians, twelve baiocchi each. Soles, 
turbots, carp*, and other prime fishes, 
are seldom sold for less than from 
fifteen baiocchi to two pauls the 
pound : though common fish rarely 
costs more than ten baiocchi. Dried 
salmon is twelve baiocchi a pound 
—salted cod, three baiocchi. Good 
butter two pauls a pound, generally 
speaking, though it may sometimes 
be procured for fourteen or fifteen 
baiocchi. Cows’ milk, per foglietta, 
five baiocchi — goats’ milk, three 
baiocchi. Parmesan cheese, twenty- 
two baiocchi the pound—Dutch 
cheese, seventeen baiocchi—Brinzi, 
eighteen baiocchi. Household bread, 
two baiocchi and a half—a panetto, 
or roll, always one baioccho • at pre¬ 
sent, three of these weigh eleven 
ounces. Spanish rolls, two baiocchi 
and a half each. Grapes, apples, 
pears, peaches, and apricots, from 
two to four baiocchi the pound. 
Sweet oranges, three or four for one 
baioccho — Seville oranges, six or 
seven for ditto—lemons, each from 
one to two baiocchi—best chesnuts, 
twelve for one baioccho—potatoes, 
one baioccho the pound—beans, one 
baioccho and a half the pound. Eggs 
per dozen, from ten to twenty baioc¬ 
chi. Wax candles, from forty-four 
to forty-five baiocchi the pound— 
Spoleto-tallow candles, twelve baioc¬ 
chi the pound—Roman ditto, ten 
baiocchi. Charcoal, per sack, con¬ 
taining about 1301b. sixty baiocchi. 
The best markets for fruit and vege¬ 
tables are those of the Piazza-Na- 
vona and the Pantheon ; the melons 
of Perugia are remarkably good, as 
is the Roman brocoli. 

The wine of Orvietto usually sold 
at fifteen or sixteen baiocchi the 
small flask, is good, but seldom ge¬ 
nuine : indeed, the Romans are ac¬ 
cused of adulterating their white 
wines with a poisonous metallic sub¬ 
stance. The wines of Albano and 
Gensano, however, may usually be 
purchased at the Scotch College for 

" twenty pounds each ; and are parti¬ 
cularly delicious. 



Ch. V.] ITALY—ROME—PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. 375 


two scudi and a half, or, at most, 
three scudi the barrel; and are 
wholesome, because genuine. A 
barrel contains fourteen large flasks, 
and every large flask five fogliette. 
The foglietta is nearly an English 
pint. Spanish table-wine, which, if 
genuine, is good and wholesome, 
may be purchased in the magazines 
at Ripa-Grande, and usually costs 
from sixteen to eighteen scudi the 
barrel. Spanish white wines may 
likewise be purchased of Don Ra- 
faele Anglada, No. 26, at Ripa- 
Grande ; as may a remarkably good 
sweet wine of Portugal, called Se- 
tubal. Good Marsala, together with 
French wines, spirits, tea, groceries, 
English patent medicines, fish- 
sauces, mustard, <Sfc., are sold by 
Lowe, No. 420, Corso. Foreign 
wines and spirits are likewise sold 
by Freeborn, No. 7, Via-Condotti; 
and by Townley, No. 58, Via-Con¬ 
dotti. Townley sells flannel also, and 
other English goods. French wines 
are sold at No. 40, Piazza di Spagna. 
Spillman, No. 81, Via della Croce 
sells good foreign wines and spirits; 
but his prices are high : he is the 
best Confectioner at Rome, and re¬ 
markably honourable in his mode 
of dealing; the average price of his 
ices (which are excellent) is twelve 
baiocchi the square cake; ices in 
the shape of fruit cost more. Oil 
varies in price from eight to twenty- 
four baiocchi the foglietta, accord¬ 
ing to its quality; but good salad 
oil is not easily obtained. Roman 
honey is good, and seldom costs 
more than seven or eight baiocchi 
the pound. Tea may be purchased 
of all the principal grocers. Black 
tea usually costs, per pound, about 
twelve pauls—green tea, from fifteen 
to eighteen pauls, according to its 
quality — Levant coffee, unburnt, 
about thirty-two baiocchi—Marti¬ 
nique coffee, unburnt, from twenty- 
four to thirty baiocchi—good lump- 
sugar, about two pauls—the best 
powder-sugar, about fourteen bai¬ 
occhi—wax candles, from forty-three 
to forty-five baiocchi — and wax 


torches, forty-two baiocchi. The 
above-named groceries and wax 
lights may be purchased better and 
cheaper at No. 90, in the Piazza di 
Trevi, than at any other shop. Good 
sugar, wax lights, and brandy, (the 
last four pauls a bottle,) are sold at 
No. Ill, Piazza di Monte Citorio. 
Faiella, in the Piazza di Spagna, 
sells good groceries. The brothers 
Cogorni, grocers, in the Piazza Ron- 
donini, sell good rum at six pauls 
the bottle; or, five and a half, pro¬ 
vided the empty bottles be returned: 
they likewise sell good Bordeaux, 
Cyprus, and Malaga. Genuine wine 
of Nice may sometimes be pur¬ 
chased at the Palazzo-Borromeo, for 
four pauls a bottle. The average 
price of Bordeaux l’aftitte is eight 
pauls, and of the inferior sort six 
pauls, the bottle. The average price 
of good Marsala is five pauls; and 
of good Malaga four pauls, the 
bottle. Wine-merchants, in general, 
allow from three to five baiocchi for 
every empty bottle, when returned. 

The best medicines are to be pur¬ 
chased at the Farmacia Marini Bo- 
rioni, Via del Babuino, No. 9S; and 
this shop contains excellent castor oil, 
Epsom salts, pearl barley, oatmeal, 
and sago, and tolerably good bark. 
The Spezieria del Collegio Romano 
likewise furnishes tolerably good 
bark : but if medicines be wanted 
during the night, they can only be 
procured at the Spezieria in the Via 
del Gambero. 

Furs are very good and not dear. 
Roman pearls, if made and sold by 
Pozzi, No. 101, in Via-Pasquino, 
are well worth purchasing: but those 
made and sold in Via-Padella, and 
other places, are of a very inferiorqua- 
lity, and liable to turn yellow. The best 
Silk-mercer is Ciampi, No. 471, on 
the Corso. The best Milliner resides 
in Vie de’ due Macelli, at No. 106. 

The best Language Master at 
Rome is Sig. Guintotardi: the best 
Music-Masters are Signori Sirletti, 
Doria, Moroni, and Confidate. Sig. 
Giuntotardi’s price is one zecchino 
for three lessons. Eminent Music- 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. V. 


876 

Masters ask ten pauls a lesson. 
Dancing-Masters charge from five to 
seven pauls a lesson; and Drawing- 
Masters about five pauls an hour. 
Sig. Sanlarelli, (who may be heard 
of at Mona Id ini’s, in the Piazza di 
Spagna,) is an excellent Drawing- 
Master, and very moderate in his 
charges : and the Cav. Fidanza, (al¬ 
ready mentioned as an eminent Ar¬ 
tist,) teaches landscape painting at 
his own house; though he does not 
go from home to give lessons. 

Vescovali, at No. 20, in the Piazza 
di Spagna, has a large collection of 
ancient bronzes. Vases, Medals, fyc., 
for sale. Sulphurs are sold at No. 81, 
Via-Capo-le-Case, for three scudi 
per hundred: they are likewise sold 
at No. 53, on the Corso ; and in the 
Piazza di Spagna, by Pavoletti, who 
is deemed particularly skilful in the 
art of making pastes and sulphurs. 
Small and beautiful specimens of 
Roman Mosaics may be found in 
the Piazza di Spagna, and its en¬ 
virons. Specimens of Scajuola, and 
Paintings alFEncausto, may be found 
at No. 3, in the Forum Romanum, 
near the arch of Severus. One of 
the best shops for bronze Lamps, 
and silver Plate, is that of Sig. Belli, 
No. 63, in Via-Valle. One of the 
best Stationers’ shops is in the Piazza 
Colonna, and opposite to the Post- 
Oftice. Manuscript Music, both an¬ 
cient and modern, is sold by the 
Abbate Santini, at No. 49, Via- 
Viltoria. Bouchard, Bookseller, at 
No. 69, in the Piazza di Spagna, (a 
very fair Dealer,) sells coloured 
Drawings, Prints, and English Books. 
Monaldini, Bookseller, in the Piazza 
di Spagna, sells English Books, 
English writing and drawing Paper, 
Sec., and Piale, at No. 428, on the 
Corso, has a small circulating Li¬ 
brary, which contains a few English 
Books. The subscription to this 
Library is seven pauls for one month 

* Persons who wish to convey luggage 
by water from Rome to Naples, should 
apply to the Masters of the vessels at Ripa- 
Urande: but as luggage going either by the 


only; and fifteen pauls per quarter. 
Large assortments of Prints, and 
coloured Drawings, are to be found 
on the Corso; and likewise at No. 
19, Via-Condotti, a fair dealing shop. 
The Calcogralia Camerale also con¬ 
tains a considerable collection of 
Prints; the prices of which are spe¬ 
cified in the catalogue; and from ten 
to fifteen per cent is deducted, if a 
large number of prints be purchased. 

The usual fee given, by the Ro¬ 
mans, to their Physicians, is three 
pauls a visit; but Foreigners are 
expected to pay more liberally. 

Rome, (as has been already men¬ 
tioned,) contains six Theatres; 
namely, The Aliherti, which is 
opened for masked Balls during Car¬ 
nival; The Argentina , where operas 
are performed between Christmas 
and Lent; The Valle , where operas 
and plays are performed at the same 
season; The Apollo, or Tordinoni, 
likewise an opera-house; The Pace; 
and The Pallacorda. The price of 
a good box at the Teatro-Aliberti, 
during Carnival, is from fifteen to 
twenty pauls; besides which, every 
person pays three pauls for ad¬ 
mission. At the other Theatres, the 
price of boxes varies according to 
the merit of the performers; but, 
nothing is paid for admission, ex¬ 
cept by those persons who go into 
the parterre. 

Persons who intend to make a 
long stay, and to live economically 
in this city, should endeavour to 
hire an unfurnished apartment, and 
furnish it themselves; furniture 
being very cheap; and the rent of 
unfurnished apartments very low. 

A Procaccio goes every week 
from Rome to Naples, and conveys 
luggage*. 

The best Roman Padrone di Vet- 
ture is Balzani, who may always be 
found, or heard of, at the Locanda 
del Orso; and is the brother and 

Procaccio, or by water, must be taken to 
the Custom-house at Naples, it is not ad¬ 
visable to send books, nor any thing con¬ 
traband, by these conveyances. 


ITALY—NEAPOLITAN TERRITORIES. 


377 


Ch. V.] 

partner of Balzani, the Padrone di 
Vettare, at Florence *. 

POST-OFFICE. 

Letters for Great Britain and 
France go on Mondays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays; and may be franked, 
on Mondays, from nine in the morn¬ 
ing till four in the afternoon; on 
Thursdays, from nine in the morning 
till twelve; and on Saturdays, from 
nine in the morning till half-past 
eight in the evening. 

Letters for the kingdom of Naples 
go on Tuesdays and Fridays; and 
letters for Tuscany on Mondays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays. 

Letters for Tuscany, and the king¬ 
dom of Naples, may be franked 
either before noon, or between five 
and seven in the evening. The ex¬ 
pense for franking a single letter 
to Great-Britain is fifteen baiocchi; 
and for franking a single letter, either 
to Florence or Naples, two baiocchi 
and a half. 

The Post-office is usually open 
from nine till twelve in the morning, 
and from three till seven in the 
evening. 

Letters from Great Britain may 
be expected on Mondays and Thurs¬ 
days. 

NEAPOLITAN TERRITORIES. 

In order to enter the kingdom of 
Naples, it is necessary to procure 
a passport either from the Neapo¬ 
litan Government, or one of its Am¬ 
bassadors. 

Travellers, on quitting Rome for 
Naples, derive no advantage from 
having their luggage plumbed; as, 
at Terracina, the last town in the 

* Washerwomen at Rome commonly 
charge for washing anil ironing as follows: 
Sheets, per pair . . bajocchi 8 

Pillow-cases, each . • • 1 

Tablecloth .... 5 

"Napkins, per dozen . . .12 

Towels, per dozen • • .12 

Shirt, if plain, 6; if frilled . . 7 

Shift. 

Drawers . • • • • 4 

Gorget. 5 


Papal territories, and also at the 
frontier, Custom-house officers have 
a right to examine trunks, 8fc. ; 
but a fee of from five to ten pauls, 
according to the quantity of lug¬ 
gage, always prevents the exercise 
of this right. At Fondi, the first 
town in the Neapolitan dominions, 
six carlini per carriage, given at the 
Custom-house, will generally secure 
luggage from examination. 

MONEY OF NATLES. 

Gold. Piece worth thirty due at i, 
or ducats—ditto, worth fifteen ducats 
—ditto, worth four ducats—ditto, 
worth three ducats—ditto, worth two 
ducats. 

Silver. Scudo, worth grani, orgrains 
132 — Pezzo-duro, worth grains from 
123, to 124 —Piastre, worth grains 
120—Piece, worth grains 66—ditto, 
worth grains 60 —ditto, worth grains 
50—ditto, worth grains 40 —ditto, 
worth grains 30 —ditto, worth grains 
26 —ditto, worth grains 24—ditto, 
worth grains 20—ditto, worth grains 
13— ditto, worth grains 12 —ditto, 
worth grains 10—ditto, worth grains5. 

Copper. Piece worth four grains 
—ditto, worth 3 grains—ditto, worth 
grains—ditto, worth 2 grains— 
ditto, worth 1 grain—ditto, worth 
half a grain. 

One ducato is worth ten carlini , 
and one carlino is worth ten grani. 

Accounts are kept in ducats and 
grains. The exchange upon London 
is fixed every Monday and Thursday 
afternoon; and Neapolitan Bankers 
give so many grains, according to the 
exchange, for every pound sterling. 

The value of French gold varies 
from time to time; but anoldLouis- 

Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen . 12 
Kitchen aprons, per dozen . 12 

Neck-cloth ..... 1 

Tockets, per pair ... 2 

Sleeping waistcoat . . .4 

Neckerchief, if frilled . . 7 

Night-cap, if frilled . • .2 

Plain white dresses, each . . 20 

Petticoats, each . • .5 

Cotton stockings, per pair . . 2 

Silk ditto .... 4 


378 

d’or is usually worth from five hundred 
and forty to five hundred and sixty 
grains; and a Napoleon, from four 
hundred and sixty to four hundred 
and eighty-five grains. 

Messrs. Falconnet and Co., the 
most eminent Bankers at Naples, 
are very obliging to Travellers: and 
Messrs. Reynolds & Co., Bankers,are 
honourable in their dealings, and 
particularly obliging to Travellers. 

The common Neapolitan measure, 
called a canna, is equal to about 
two yards and a quarter English*; 
the Neapolitan pound to about eleven 
English ounces; and the rotolo to 
about thirty-one English ounces. 

HOTELS AND OTHER LODGING- 
HOUSES AT NAPLES. 

From two hundred to three hun¬ 
dred ducats a month have, during 
the last few years, been demanded in 
winter and spring, for the best ready- 
furnished apartments in this city: 
now, however, handsome lodgings 
large enough to accommodate a mo- 
derate-sized Family, may be ob¬ 
tained for an hundred, or, at the 
utmost, an hundred and fifty ducats a 
month, in those parts of Naples 
usually frequented by Foreigners, 
namely, the Chiaja, the Chiatamone, 
and the Strada di S. Lucia : in other 
situations lodgings are much cheaper. 
I have already mentioned the names 
of the best hotels: it may not, how¬ 
ever, be superfluous to add, that the 
situation of the Gran-Bretagna is 
bleak during winter and spring; and 
that the back rooms in the Crocele, 
and other hotels near the tufo-rock, 
are damp and unwholesome. The 
price of apartments at the principal 
hotels is, generally speaking, higher 
than in any other part of Italy. Din¬ 
ner usually costs ten carlini per head 
for masters; breakfast, twenty-five 
grains; and servants’ board, per day, 
from four to six carlini a head. Job- 
men, who supply strangers with car¬ 
riages, usually charge three ducats 


[Ch. V. 

per day; and not much less by the 
month: but a good carriage and 
horses may frequently be purchased 
here for less than one hundred 
pounds sterling: and the expense of 
keeping them amounts to about fifty 
ducats a month, including twelve 
ducats for the coachman’s wages. 
Provender for a coach-horse costs 
about four carlini per day—a stable 
and coach-house four ducats a month, 
and shoeing each horse, one ducat a 
month. Provender for a saddle- 
horse costs about three carlini per 
day. Hackney-carriages of all de¬ 
scriptions are to be met with in 
every quarter of Naples, at the fol¬ 
lowing prices : Carriage with four 
places, a course, four carlini; and if 
taken by the hour, first hour, five 
carlini; and every subsequent hour 
three carlini. Carriage with two 
places, a course, twenty-six grains; 
and if taken per hour, first hour 
three carlini; and every subsequent 
hour, twenty grains. The drivers of 
these carriages cannot demand any 
thing more than the fare, though 
they expect a trifling gratuity. The 
wages of a valet-de-place, is from 
five to six carlini a day, he finding 
himself in every thing: and it is 
difficult to meet with a good Cook, 
who finds his own Assistant, under 
twelve ducats a month. Neapolitan 
Servants expect neither board nor 
lodging. Persons who keep their own 
cook should order dinner at so much 
per head, fire-wood and charcoal in¬ 
clusive : and persons who mean to re¬ 
side long at Naples, and wish to live 
economically, should endeavour to 
procure an unfurnished apartment; 
and either purchase or hire furniture 
themselves. Good apartments un¬ 
furnished may be obtained for four, 
or at the utmost, five hundred ducats 
per annum. Families who have their 
dinner from a Traiteur, are seldom 
well-served under five or six carlini 
a head, Servants inclusive: but a 
well-cooked dish, sufficient for two 


APPENDIX. 


* One canna contains tight Neapolitan palmi; and one palmo is about 10J English 

inches. 


Ch. V.] ITALY—NAPLES—PRICE OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. 379 


persons, may be procured, at a Cook’s 
shop, for five carlini. Persons who 
dine at the houses of Restaurateurs, 
are presented when they enter, with 
the carte d manger ; and the expense 
of dining at these taverns, bread and 
table-wine inclusive, is, generally 
speaking, from three to six carlini a 
head. One cup of coffee at a coffee¬ 
house usually costs five grains; one 
cup of chocolate, eight grains; and 
breakfast altogether, butter inclu¬ 
sive, two carlini. Provisions at 
Naples are good and plentiful. Beef 
on an average costs from twenty- 
four to twenty-six grains the rotolo 
•—mutton about twenty grains—veal 
from thirty to forty grains—pork 
about twenty grains—and fish, from 
three to eight carlini. Naples, 
oysters are good; though perhaps 
not so well fattened as in the days of 
Lucullus. Turkies are cheap and 
remarkably good; a small turkey 
costs from six to eight carlini; a 
fowl from three to four carlini; and 
a small chicken from fifteen to twenty 
grains. Parmesan cheese costs 
about nine carlini the rotolo ; and 
English cheese, about ten carlini. 
Bread of the best quality usually 
costs from six to eight grains the 
rotolo. Oil varies in price; but the 
best usually costs from four to five 
carlini the rotolo. Milk is scarce 
and dear. The only good butter 
comes from Soi'rento,and is six car¬ 
lini the rotolo. The best veal, pork, 
and hams, likewise come from Sor¬ 
rento ; and the last usually cost four 
carlini the rotolo. Green tea on an 
average is twenty carlini the English 
pound ; and black tea sixteen carlini 
—coffee from eleven to thirteen car¬ 
lini the rotolo—loaf-sugar eight car¬ 
lini—and other sorts, from six carlini 
to forty-five grains. Fruit is cheap 
and excellent. (It is supposed that in 
Magna Gracia the ancients iced their 
cherries, figs, water-melons and many 

* Some of the best Calabrian and Sici¬ 
lian wines are those of Piedimonte, Mongi- 
bello, S. Eufcmia, Marsala, and Siragusa. 
Good Malaga may frequently be met with ; 
and is sold by the rubbio, which contains 


other fruits; and the Moderns would 
do wisely by adopting the same plan.) 
Ice, or rather frozen snow, is four 
grains the rotolo ; iced water, two 
grains per quart; ices, in glasses, 
are eight grains each; and ices in 
cakes, twelve grains each. The 
wines of Posilipo, Capri, and Ischia, 
are palatable and wholesome; and 
cost about three ducats and a half 
the barrel, which holds fifty-six ca- 
rafli, or pints. The wines ofPro- 
ceda and Calabria are good and 
wholesome; and cost about four 
ducats and a half per barrel. The 
Sicilian wines likewise are good *. 
Fire-wood usually costs from twenty 
to twenty-two ducats the large can- 
nat; and charcoal fifteen carlini the 
quintal. Wax-lights of the best qua¬ 
lity, called Venice-candles, are about 
six carlini the pound; and tallow 
candles twelve grains the pound in 
the shops, and eleven grains at the 
Fabbrica. Sig. Graindorges has, in 
the Largo del Gastello, an English 
Warehouse, which contains porter, 
ale ; French, Spanish, and Portugal 
wines; excellent Lachryrme both 
white and red, Marsala, brandy, rum, 
Hollands,liqueurs,gunpowder,hyson, 
and black tea; Durham mustard; 
English writing-paper, pens, and 
pencils; fish-sauces; court-plaster; 
English cheese; curry-powder; an¬ 
ti-attrition grease; English razors, 
saddles, and bridles; James’s pow¬ 
der, Epsom and Cheltenham salts, 
soda-pow ders, spirit of hartshorn, and 
spirit of lavender. Strong’s British 
Warehouse, No. 1, Strada-Molo, 
near the Fontana-Medina, contains 
several of the same articles; and Terry, 
in the Strada-Toledo, sells Eng¬ 
lish writing-paper, pens, elastic soles, 
and a considerable variety of other 
English goods. Paturle and Co. 
at No. 329, Strada-Toledo, have a 
large assortment of French silks, 
velvets, gauzes,lace, shawls, ribands, 

about sixteen English quarts. 

t The large canna contains sixty-four pal. 
mi, it being a rule to have the canna square 
every w r ay. 


380 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. V- 


and almost every article manufac¬ 
tured at Lyons. Toro, at No. 12, 
Strada S. Francesco di Paola, is an 
excellent Shoemaker: Cardon and 
Co. at No. 209, Strada de Cliiaja are 
good Milliners and Dress-makers; 
as likewise is Mad eUe - Houlemont, 
at No. 29, Vico lungo San Matteo, 
dirempetto La Trinita de’ Spagnuoli. 
Naples is celebrated for its silks, 
gauzes, ribands, coral and tortoise¬ 
shell manufactures, soap, essences; 
and especially for its silk stockings, 
made at Sorrento, which are remark¬ 
ably strong. Silks for Ladies’ dresses 
are usually sold according to their 
weight: common silks are ot vai ious 
qualities; that called Battavia (two 
palmi and a quarter wide), is twenty- 
four carl ini the canna—that caLed 
Ormismo (four palmi wide), is from 
twenty-four to twenty-eight carlini 
the canna — that called Cattivella 
(seven palmi wide), is from thirty- 
two to forty carlini the canna. 
Richer silks, called the King’s, and 
sold at the Fabbrica re ale, in the 
Strada-Toledo, are morecostly. Thin 
ell-wide silk, called Tafita , is also 
sold at this shop, for about twenty 
carlini the canna. Cottone e setta, 
is strong, warm, cheap,’and said to 
wash well. SilK stockings cost tiom 
sixteen to twenty-live carlini the pair, 
according to their weight and quality. 
Common silks, and Cottone e setta , 
are sold in the streets near the Largo 
del Castello, and in the Strada Sedde 
di Porto Naples is likewise famous 
for musical instrument strings in ge¬ 
neral, and harp strings in particular. 
There is a circulating Library and 
Reading Room, in Strada S. Giaco¬ 
mo, No. 19, near the Strada Toledo, 
and Sig. Borel has a large and valu- 


* Washerwomen at Naples commonly 
charge for washing and ironing as follows: 
Sheets, per pair . . • Grains 12 

Pillow-case 
Table-cloth 

Napkin, and Towel each 
Kitchen-apron . 

Shirt 

Shift • • • 

Drawers 

Sleeping waistcoat 
Nightcap . • 

Petticoat . 


2 

6 

1 

1 

6 

5 

4 

4 


able collection of books for sale, 
near the Church of Trinita Maggiore. 
Sig. Angelo Trani has an excellent 
Stationer’s Shop, in the Largo del 
Palazzo; and Sig. Luigi Tisi Pas- 
cuzzi, opposite to the Fontana di 
Monte Oliveto, is a good Coach' 
maker, and an honest man. 

Doctor Kissock, an English Phy¬ 
sician, resides at Naples ; as do Mr. 
Roskillv, an English Surgeon, and 
Mr. Reilly, an English Apothecary, 
who sells' English medicines. One 
of the most celebrated Music Mas¬ 
ters is Sig. Lanza, who charges a 
piastre an hour; and the most cele¬ 
brated Dancing Master is Sig. For- 
michi, who charges the same. 

For boxes at the Theatres there is 
a fixed price; beyond which nothing 
can be demanded for admission. A 
box, in the third row, at the I eatio 
di S. Carlo, usually costs five piastres; 
in the fourth row, four piastres; and 
in the fifth row, three piastres; and 
seats in the parterre, where Ladies 
may go without the smallest inipio- 
prietv, cost six carlini each. A box 
in tlie third row, at the Teatro del 
Fondo, usually costs three piastres; 
and in the fourth row r , two piastres, 
or, at most, two and a halt. Seats 
in the parterre, are five carlini each. 
The Fondo is better calculated, both 
for seeing and hearing, than is S. 
Carlo. 

A good box at the Teatro de’ Fio- 
rentini may be procured for fifteen 
carlini—at the Teatro della Fenice, 
for twelve carlini—and at the Teatro 
di S. Carlino, for ten carlini*. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER-COURIERS AND PROCACCI. 

Sunday arrive letters from France, 

Corset.p 

Neck-cloth .... 2 

Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen 12 
Stockings per pair (if silk) . 4 

A plain white dress . . 25 

A frill ..... 5 

A muslin cap, if bordered with lace 5 
Stockings per pair (if cotton) . 2 

In the Strada-Vittoria, No. 38, there is a 
good Laundress, by name, Lastrucci: but 
her charges are high. She speaks English 
and French. 




ITALY—PIANO DI SORRENTO, 


SSI 


Ch. V.] 

Italy, and Germany. In the after¬ 
noon goes the Courier of Cilento. 

Monday and every other day, 
Sunday excepted, arrive and go the 
Courier and Procaccio of Salerno, 
and the Courier of Palermo. 

Tuesday arrive letters from Eari, 
Lecce, Foggia, Lucera, and Manfre- 
donia: likewise the Procaccio of 
Melfi, Nocera, Materdomini, and 
Sanseverino. In the evening go let¬ 
ters to Italy, Germany, and Great 
Britain. 

Wednesday arrive the Procacci of 
Rome and Cilento : and on Wed¬ 
nesday go the Procaccio of Melfi, 
and the Courier of Palermo. 

Thursday arrive letters from Spain, 
Italy, France, Germany, Great Bri¬ 
tain, Messina, Palermo, Malta, and 
Calabria; Basilicata, Sora, and Cam- 
po-basso : likewise the Procaccio of 
Bari,Lecce, Foggia, Lucera, Abruzzi, 
Calabria, Basilicata, Sora, and Cam- 
po-basso. 

Friday night goes the Procaccio to 
Rome. 

Saturday morning arrives the Pro¬ 
caccio of Nocera, Materdomini, and 
Sanseverino; and Saturday go the 
Procacci of Bari, Lecce, Abruzzi, 
Foggia, Basilicata, Sora, and Campo- 
basso; and the letters for Sora and 
Campo-basso. At night go the Pro¬ 
cacci of Calabria and Nocera, Ma¬ 
terdomini and Sanseverino, Bari, 
Lecce, Abruzzi, Foggia, Basilicata, 
Sora, and Campo-basso; and the 
letters for Sora and Campo-basso. 
At night go the Procacci of Calabria 
and Nocera, Materdomini, Sanseve¬ 
rino and Monte-Sarchio. At night 
likewise go letters for Italy, Messina, 
Calabria, Palermo, and Malta; Bari, 
Tarento, Lecce, Lucera, Foggia, 
Basilicata, and Abruzzi. 

During summer the Procacci set 
out on the Friday night, instead of the 
Saturday morning. On the first Sa¬ 
turday in every month go letters for 
Ragusa and Constantinople. 

Letters for Great Britain must be 
franked; and the price is fifteen 
grains for every single letter. Letters 


for France must be franked ; and the 
price is ten grains for every single 
letter. 

The office for franking letters is 
open every day, Sunday excepted, 
from nine till twelve in the morning, 
and from four till five in the after¬ 
noon. 

Tuesday and Friday are the best 
days for franking letters addressed to 
Great Britain; and Thursday is the 
only day on which letters from Great 
Britain are received. 

PIANO DI SORRENTO. 

Price of Lodging-houses. 

The price of Lodging Houses de¬ 
pends on the term for which they 
are taken ; and also on the season of 
the year. During summer, from 
eighty to an hundred ducats per 
month are demanded for the large 
V illa-Marisca—from sixty to seventy 
ducats per month for the large apart¬ 
ment in the Villa-Spinelli — sixty 
ducats per month for the Villa-Sta- 
race—from sixty to eighty ducats per 
month for the large apartment in the 
Palazzo-Cocomella; and from forty 
to fifty ducats for the small apart¬ 
ment—sixty ducats per month for 
the upper apartment in the Villa- 
Correale; and more for the lower 
apartment, if a considerable number 
of beds be required. Small apart¬ 
ments calculated to accommodate a 
Lady and her Servant, or a single 
Man, may always be procured for 
fifteen ducats per month; and some¬ 
times for two-thirds of that sum. 
Plate and linen are included in these 
prices. 

AVERAGE PRICE OF PROVISIONS, 

Excellent beef, (prime pieces) from 
twenty to twenty-four grains the ro- 
tolo—excellent veal, from twenty- 
four to thirty grains—delicious pork, 
from fourteen to sixteen grains—ex¬ 
cellent hams, pig’s cheeks and bacon, 
from twenty-four to thirty grains—■ 
excellent butter, sixty grains—bread 
of the best quality, (which is brought 
daily from Castel-a-mare,) seven 


382 


APPENDIX. 


grains—macaroni, from ten to twelve 
grains—fish, from ten to forty grains, 
according to itsquality—fruit from two 
to four grains—clean ice, or, properly 
speaking, frozen snow, to mix with 
wine, two grains—and snow for icing 
liquors, one grain and a half—excel¬ 
lent salad-oil, about thirty grains the 
measure—excellent milk,three grains 
the measure, which is nearly an 
English quart—wine of Sorrento, per 
caraffa, three grains—wine of Capri, 
if it come direct from that Island, 
about thirty carlini the barrel—char¬ 
coal, from twelve to fifteen carlini 
the quintal—and fire-wood, seventy 
carlini the small canna. 

Sorrento and its Piano are famous 
for delicious honey, clotted cream, 
and a dish called, in Devonshire, 
junket: and (what seems extraor¬ 
dinary) the Sorrentines give it a simi¬ 
lar name. Quails, during the month 
of September, are particularly good, 
plentiful, and cheap, in this country; 
but poultry is always scarce, and 
seldom good: fine fish is likewise 
scarce in the Piano di Sorrento; 
though attainable almost every even¬ 
ing at S. Agata; whither it is brought 
from the Gulph of Salerno during 
the day, in order to be sent to Naples 
at midnight *. 

Families who remove from Naples 
to the Sorrentine shore, would do 
well to take with them tea, sugar, 
wax candles, soap, and cheese. Nei¬ 
ther brandy nor rum, nor the wines 
of Spain, Portugal, and France, can 
be purchased at Sorrento : but boats 
go daily thence, and also from the 
Piano, to Naples; and every Master 
of a boat may be trusted to execute 
commissions, and even to bring let¬ 
ters, and money, for Foreigners. The 
Sorrento-boats, and those belonging 
to the Marina grande of the Piano, 

* A fish called by the Sorrentines, Mo- 
rena, may frequently be procured at S. 
Agata. This fish was highly prized by the 
ancient Homans : some of whom, in order 
to augment its bulk and flavour, fed it with 
the flesh of their Slaves. 

Particularly strong Silk Stockings may 


[Ch. V. 

set out soon after day-break, and re¬ 
turn between three and four o’clock 
every afternoon, weather permitting. 
The Meta-boats go more irregularly ; 
there being, at times, a dangerous 
surf upon that beach. The price 
paid by the Sorrentines for going to 
Naples in a public boat, is six grains 
per head; and the best method of 
conveying a Family from Naples 
to Sorrento, is to hire one of these 
public boats, and embark about mid¬ 
day ; at which time the wind is 
usually favourable. A Mariner, by 
name Epifanio, who frequently com¬ 
mands the boats belonging to the 
Marina of the Piano, is remarkably 
well-behaved, and an excellent Pilot: 
and a boat, commanded by him, may 
be hired for three or four ducats, ac¬ 
cording to its size ; and he may gene¬ 
rally be met with at the Molo at 
Naples, from ten in the morning, till 
twelve, every day, Sundays excepted. 

Letters put into the Sorrento Post- 
Office, go perfectly safe to Naples: 
and letters addressed either to Sor¬ 
rento, or any of the Villas in the 
Plain, are delivered with punctuality. 
A large Family, if economical, might 
live comfortably at Sorrento for four 
hundred pounds per annum +. 

Doctor Cangiani, a well-educated 
Neapolitan Physician, resides in this 
town ; and occupies the house once 
inhabited by the Sister of Torquato 
Tasso. 

I will now close my account of the 
average prices of necessaries and 
luxuries, in France and southern 
Italy, by the follow ing comparative 
view of Family-expenses in various 
parts of the Continent. 

Generally speaking, a French franc 
(usually worth about ten-pence) will 
go as far in France as does a shilling 
in England : a Tuscan paul (usually 

be purchased, for a moderate price, at the 
manufactory of Don Filippo Castellano, in 
the Piano di Sorrento: and excellent 
Gauze, for Mnsqnito-nets, may be pur- 
chased very cheap at Sorrento. 

t Washerwomen here are particularly 
moderate in their charges. 


383 


Ch. VI.] ITALY—ROUTE OVER CENTS TO TURIN. 


worth about five-pence) will go as 
far in Tuscany as does a franc in 
France: a Roman paul (usually 
worth about four pence) will go as 
tar in the Ecclesiastical territories as 
does a Tuscan paul in Tuscany : and 


a carlino of the kingdom of Naples 
(usually worth about three-pence) 
will go as far in the Neapolitan do¬ 
minions as does a Roman Paul at 
Rome. 


CHAPTER VI. 


Route from Geneva to Chamb^ry—from'Chamb£ry over the Mont-Cenis to Turin—New 
Road made by Napoleon—Passage of Mont-Genevre—Route from Nice through Genoa 
to Pisa—from Leghorn through Pisa to Florence—from Pisa through Lucca and Pis- 
toja to Florence—from Fisa to Modena—Expense of travelling en voiturier from Lucca 
through Pistoja to Florence—Price charged by Voiturins for conveying Luggage from 
Florence to Rome—Lascia-Passare—Route from Florence through Siena to Home— 
from Florence through Perugia to Rome—from Genoa through Bologna, Rimini, 
Sinagalia, Ancona, Loretto, and Terni,to Rome—from Milan through Bergamo, Verona, 
Vicenza, and Padua, to Venice, Bologna, and Florence—from Milan to Bologna, through 
Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, and Modena—from Milan to Turin—from Aoste to Turin— 
from Turin over the Maritime Alps to Nice—from Turin over the Bochetta to Genoa— 
from Rome to Naples—Passports—Modes of dividing this journey—Bnona-mano usu¬ 
ally given to a Voiturier—Route en voiturier from Pisa to Massa and Carrara—from 
Rome to Florence through Perugia—Caution against travelling through Perugia to 
Rome during the great heats—Route en voiturier from Calais to Rome, during winter 
—from Florence through Siena to Rome—from Rome to Naples—Passports—Route 
from Florence through Bologna, Venice, Vienna, Prague, and Dresden, to Hamburgh 
—from Florence through Mantua, and by the Tyrol to Augsburg and Wurtzburgh—and, 
during summer, from Rome through Florence and Milan by the Simplon to Geneva, 
and over the Jura-Alps to Poligny, Dijon, Melun, Paris, and Boulogne—and likewise, 
during summer, from Florence to Venice, Milan, Turin, and over Mont-Cenis to Pont 
de-Beauvoisin—Passports. 


ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO CHAM- 
BERY. 

2 Eluiset 

2 Frangy Two good inns. 

l£ Mionas 

l| Rumilly —A small Village, placed at 
the junction of the Seran and the 
Nephe. Inn, Les trots Rois. 

li Athens 

li Aix-les-Bains —formerly called Aqun- 
Gratiana. The mineral waters of 
Aix are in high repute; and its 
Baths (supposed to have been con¬ 
structed by the ancient Romans,) 
were repaired by the Emperor 
Gratian. Best inn, La Cite de 
Geneve. 

2 Chamb^ry. 

Ilf posts. 

ROUTE FROM CHAMBERY, OVER THE 
MONT-CENIS, TO TURIN. 

2 Montmeitl/int — The country from 
Chamb^ry hither is well cultivated ; 
and the vineyards near Montm£- 
lian produce good wine. The lat¬ 
ter town is finely situated on the 


Isere. Two bad Inns; but that on 
the Hill is the best. 

Maltaveme 

U Aiguebelle —The country betaveen Mal- 
taverne and this village is barren : 
but the situation of Aiguebelle is 
pleasant; the inhabitants, compared 
with their neighbouring com¬ 
patriots, are wealthy; the Post- 
House, though destitute of a Re¬ 
mise, is, in other respects, a tole¬ 
rably good inn; and VHotel de 
VUnion, (an equally good inn,) 
possesses an excellent Remise. 

2f La grande Matson —The new Road, 
"constructed by order of the Em¬ 
peror Napoleon, commences just 
beyond Aiguebelle, and passes 
through the Maurienne, a narrow 
valley, bordered by some of the 
most gigantic of the Maritime Alps, 
parts of which display barren 
scenery, while other parts are em¬ 
bellished with pasturages, and 
clothed with woods. 

2 *V. Jean de Maurienne — Between 
Aiguebelle and S- Jean de Mau¬ 
rienne are several bridges, thrown 
over a brawling torrent, called the 



APPENDIX. 


384 

Arc, and one of the tributary 
streams to the Is6re. The villages 
of Epierre, La Chapelle, and La 
Chambre, all situated in the Mau- 
rienne, once exhibited a striking 
picture of poverty and disease.— 
Cretins were seen at almost every 
door ; and the inhabitants were 
universally afflicted with Goitres. 
But Napoleon, to secure his new 
road, drained the marshes, and 
confined within its proper channel 
the destructive torrent which con¬ 
tinually flooded the valley: and 
by these means he rendered the 
air salubrious; prevented the in¬ 
crease of C’rhtins ; exterminated 
Goitres; and changed a glen of 
misery into a line of prosperous 
towns and hamlets. 

2 Saint Michel —Beyond S. Jean de Mau- 
rienne the road crosses theArvan 
on a slone bridge; and then traverses 
the Arc on another bridge; facing 
which, is a rivulet of water that 
petrifies every substance it touches; 
and has, consequently, made, for 
itself, a natural aqueduct. Mid¬ 
way between S. Jean de Mau- 
rienne and S. Michel is the hamlet 
of S. Julieu, celebrated for its 
wines. The Hotel de Londres, 
at S. Michel, is a good inn. 

2J Mod one — Two inns; V Hotel de la 

2 Pos te, and l’ Hotel des Voyu- 

geurs; both tolerably good. 

2 La Verney 

2 Lans-le-Bourg —Not far distant from 
Le Verney is the double Cascade 
of S. Benoit, one of the finest 
waterfalls in the Alps; but, though 
near the road, not close to it: and 
between Le Verney and Lans-le- 
Bourg is Termignon, situated on 
the Arc, not far from its confluence 
with the Leisse. Between Modane 
and Lans-le-Bourg, the Emperor of 
Austria is building a strong Fort¬ 
ress, to command the passage of 
Mont-Cenis. 

Lans-le-Bourg, situated at the base 
of Cenis, contains a considerable 
number of inhabitants, most of whom 
are employed in facilitating the pas¬ 
sage of the mountain; by removing 
the new-fallen snow, during eight or 
nine months of the year, from those 
places where, if suffered to accumu¬ 
late, it might block up the road; 
and by affording Travellers every 
assistance they require. 

L Hotel Royal, at Lans-le-Bourg, 
is an excellent inn, built by order of 
Napoleon, for the accommodation of 
his officers; but now kept by an 


[Ch. VI. 

English woman. VHotel de la 
Poste likewise is a good inn, though 
inferior to the other. 

After heavy falls of snow, carriages 
are sometimes from six to seven 
hours in ascending Cenis on the 
Savoy side; and from four to- five 
hours in descending on the 'side of 
Piedmont; and when the snow is 
particularly deep, carriages are dis¬ 
mounted, and put into traineaux : 
this, however, rarely happens ; and 
the only dangerous part of the pas¬ 
sage of Cenis during winter, namely, 
the gallery situated at the base of an 
avalanche, which falls annually, is 
now avoided; by means of a road, 
lately made practicable for carriages, 
from the Italian Barrier to the wild 
and almost terrific Plain ofS. Nicolo; 
and through the centre of that Plain 
to Molaret. This new part of the 
passage, though an excellent road, 
and perfectly exempt from danger 
respecting the avalanche, requires 
fences ; and should on no account be 
passed without a guide, either in the 
dark, or after sudden and heavv snow 
storms ; as it lies close to the brink 
of precipices till it enters the Plain. 

Few scenes can be more astonish¬ 
ing or more truly sublime, than that 
presented to Travellers who cross 
Cenis. Pompey is supposed to have 
been the first person who attempted 
making a passage over this Alp ; 
which, from his days till the year 
1811, could only be crossed on foot, 
on a mule, or in a chaise-d-porteur. 
Napoleon, however, determined to 
make a carriage-road ; and, to ac¬ 
complish his purpose, employed the 
Cav. Giovanni Fabbroni ; who, in 
five months, by the aid of three 
thousand workmen, formed a new 
route, practicable for carriages at all 
Reasons of the year; and not only 
practicable but perfectly safe, (the 
circumstance of the avalanche ex¬ 
cepted,) although it traverses a part 
of Cenis which is five thousand 
eight hundred and ninety-eight Eng¬ 
lish feel above the level of the Medi¬ 
terranean sea. This excellent and 


ITALY—PASSAGE OP THE MONT-CENIS. 


385 


Oh. VI.] 


wonderful road unites the Valley of 
the Arc in Savoy with that of the Do- 
ria-Riparia, in Piedmont; passing-, at 
Lans-le-Bourg, over a fine bridge 
thrown across the Arc; thence 
winding up the side of Cenis, by 
means of six galleries, cut through 
pasturages and forests, to La Ra- 
masse; whence, during winter, ven¬ 
turous Travellers, when coming from 
Piedmont, used, previous to the for¬ 
mation of the carriage-road, to de¬ 
scend to Lans-le-Bourg, (a distance 
of two leagues) in seven minutes; 
each Traveller being seated in a 
traineau, guided by one man only ; 
who, if careless, or unskilful, risked 
the loss of his own life, together with 
that of the person he conducted : at 
present, however, these vehicles may 
be used on the carriage-road with 
perfect safety; though not with their 
former celerity ; the descent being 
so gradual, that it is needless for a 
light carriage to have a drag-chain. 
The most elevated part of the route 
is a plain, two leagues in length, en¬ 
circled by the loftiest peaks of Cenis, 
and leading to the Post-House, (a 
small inn) the Barracks, and La 
grande Croix, another small inn. 
The Plain of Cenis is embellished 
with a beautiful and, according to 
report, an unfathomable Lake; whose 
limpid waters reflect the surrounding 
heights, and contain some of tire most 
delicious trout in Europe. 

Fronting this Lake stands a hamlet 
called Tavernettes, because every 
house receives Travellers : and at 
the extremity of the Lake, on the 
Piedmontese side, and to the left 
of La grande Croix, stands L’ Hospice; 
which was founded by the Emperor 
Charlemagne, for the accommodation 
of Travellers; suppressed at the 
commencement of the French Re¬ 
public, but restored, and rendered 
more than usually flourishing, by the 
Emperor Napoleon. 

One of the best dinners I ever saw, 
consisting of all the eatables Cenis 
produces, was served at LTIospice; 
and w'hat is still more important to 
Alpine Travellers, we had excellent 


wine, likewise the produce of the 
Mountain, and large fires. With 
our dessert, came children, carrying 
salvers filled with the various flowers 
which enamel Cenis ; and the only 
return we w ere allowed to make, for 
this hospitality, was a small contribu¬ 
tion toward the maintenance of the 
establishment. 

The descent from the Italian Bar¬ 
rier into Piedmont displays much 
more stupendous scenery than does 
the ascent from Savoy; and the dif¬ 
ficulty of constructing the carriage- 
road was much greater on the Pied¬ 
montese side than on the other. 
The first gallery which presents it¬ 
self, on this side, is six hundred and 
fifty feet in length, and cut, in se¬ 
veral places, through solid rocks of 
granite. The Plain of S. Niccolo 
is adorned with fine Cascades; and, 
opposite to the hamlet of La Fer- 
riere, is another gallery, above two 
thousand feet in length, and cut 
through a remarkably hard and pre¬ 
cipitous rock of solid granite. Here, 
a wall, nine feet in height and six 
hundred in extent, defends the gal¬ 
lery from earth and loose stones, 
which might otherwise fall into and 
destroy it. The scenery in this part 
of the route is enchanting. NearMo- 
laret rise the fruitful hills of Chau- 
mont, watered by the Doria-Ripa- 
ria, which descends from Mont Ge- 
nevre; and on the left is the beau¬ 
tiful Valley of Cenis, extending to 
Susa. From the Post-House at Mo- 
laret. to the extremity of the pass of 
Gaiglione, the road, generally speak¬ 
ing, is cut through rocks at the 
brink of a precipice flanked by a 
strong dwarf w ? all; and then traverses 
a hill (covered with rich vegetation, 
and exhibiting a distant view of the 
Valley of the Doria, and the moun¬ 
tains near Turin,) till it enters the 
Faubourg of Susa. 

As travellers who pass Cenis are 
liable to encounter fogs, snow¬ 
storms, and dangerous gusts of 
wind, Napoleon established, in the 
most elevated and exposed parts of 
the route, twenty-six small Inns, or 

2 C 


386 


APPENDIX. 


Refuges , provided with bells, which 
during the prevalence of thick fogs 
are rung, to guide Travellers from 
one Refuge to another : and these 
inns are tenanted by Cantonniers, 
whose business it is to keep the road 
in good condition. 

The number of Cantonniers in¬ 
stituted by Napoleon, has been re* 
duced by the King of Sardinia; 
who still, however, preserves two 
companies, amounting to about fifty 
men •. and to assist in defraying the 
expense of keeping the new route 
in repair, and maintaining the esta¬ 
blishment at L’Hospice, there is a 
tax, amounting to two livres for 
every horse, or mule, who passes 
Cenis, three livres for every car¬ 
riage not oh springs, and six livres 
for every carriage with springs— 
small expenses these, compared with 
what was formerly paid for convey¬ 
ing Travellers, baggage and car¬ 
riages over this Alp*. The new 
road is safe and good at every sea¬ 
son. 

The Cantonniers of Lans-le-Bourg 
are robust, intelligent, and honest: 
neither Cretins nor goitrous swell¬ 
ings of any description are seen 
here : and, what seems extraordi¬ 
nary, the Savoyard Peasants speak 
better French than do the Peasantry 
of France. 

3 Post-house on the 'plain of Mont - 
Cenis 

3 Molaret 

2 Susa —This town, anciently called Se- 
gusiam, is watered by the Doria ; 
and was once defended by the 
strong Fortress of La Brunetta, 
which is now destroyed ; but there 
still remains near the town, a tri¬ 
umphal Arch, erected by Cotus, 
the monarch of the Cottian Alps, 
who resigned his sceptre to Au¬ 
gustus. 

In the valleys, between the base of 
Cenis and Susa, the inhabitants 
are afflicted with goitres; which 
they attribute to the chill the throat 
continually receives in conse¬ 
quence of the excessive coldness 

* The last time I passed Cenis, before 
the new road was made, the expense of 
conveying four persons and an .English 


[Ch. VI. 

of the water; which is, generally 
speaking, the only beverage they 
can command : neither can they 
afford to purchase clothes sufficient 
to defend them from the rigours 
of their climate; nor any suste¬ 
nance, except bread, chesnuts, and 
the fish of the lakes and torrents ; 
nay, even salt, the only cordial 
within their reach, cannot be uni¬ 
versally attained, on account of 
the heavy tax laid upon it. 
lj S. Georgio 
1 S. Antonino 
1 | Avigliano 
1 ^ Rivoli 

1§ Turin —The road between Susa and 
Turin is, generally speaking, a 
descent; and, in its approach to the 
latter town, passes through a rich 
country, fei tilized by canals, which 
distribute the waters of the Doria. 
Near Turin this road is heavy. 
The approach to Turin, by way of 
——- Rivoli, is handsomef. 

33j posts. 

PASSAGE OF MONT GENEVRE. 

The distance from Brian^on to 
Mont Genevre is three leagues; and 
the road recently made under the 
direction of the Oav. Giovanni Fab 
broni over this mountain, traverses 
a forest of pines, firs, and larches; 
not, however, by means of long 
and beautiful winding galleries, like 
those of the Simplon and Cenis; 
but by short and numerous turns, re¬ 
sembling a corkscrew, like those of 
the Col-di-Tenda. Forests of larches 
crown the heights above the plain 
of Mont Genevre, which exhibits 
an extraordinary sight in the Alps, 
namely, fields of rye and oats, sel¬ 
dom unproductive, though frequently 
injured by the severity of the cli¬ 
mate ; and here, during the month 
of May, when Cenis still wears his 
winter mantle, spring puts on her 
gayest dress, and exerts her utmost 
activity : Travellers, however, who 
pass the Mont Genevre, should re¬ 
collect that Bears are more common 
here than on Cenis. The plain is 
not so extensive as that of the last- 
named mountain; but contains a 

coach was ten louis-d'ors, from Lans-le- 
Bourg to Novalesa. 

t An extra half post is paid on entering 
and on quitting Turin. 


387 


Cli. VI.J ITALY—PASSAGE OF MONT GENEVRE, 8fc. 


village, and a Convent for the re¬ 
ception of Travellers. From Mont 
Genevre to Cesanne is two leagues 
—from Cesanne to Sestrieres four 
leagues—the descent from Sestrieres 
to Fenestrelles, four leagues—and at 
the latter village there is a tolerable 
Inn. The double Fort of Fenestrelles 
merits notice, both with respect to 
its construction and its situation. 
Hence to Pignerol is eight leagues— 
from Pignerol to None four leagues 
and a half—and from Nond to Tu¬ 
rin the same distance. None con¬ 
tains a tolerable Inn. 

ROUTE FROM NICE, THROUGH GE¬ 
NOA, TO PISA. 

Should the carriage-road ever be 
finished from Nice to Genoa, it will 
enable Travellers to go in carriages 
through France to Italy, without 
crossing the great Alps : and it will 
likewise be a less circuitous route 
than those hitherto frequented. I 
have already mentioned, in the 
former part of this work, (page 105,) 
the present slate of the new road be¬ 
tween Genoa and Pisa: and I will 
now add, that from Nice to Men¬ 
tone, and again from Savona to Ge¬ 
noa, there is a passable road for car¬ 
riages: but the intermediate spaces 
are only practicable for mules. Inns 
maybe found at Mentone,San Remo, 
Oneglia, Albenga, and Savona; and 
it is a very short day’s journey fora 
mule from each of these towns to 
the other. 

6 Mentone 
lj Ventimiglia 

3 San Remo 
5 Oneglia 

4 Alasslo 
4% Finale 
34 Savona 
4% Voltri 

3f Genoa—The Gates of this city are al¬ 
ways shut one hour after sunset *. 

* An extra half post is paid on entering 
and on quitting Genoa. 

t Persons who wish to go either from 
Leghorn or Pisa to Rome, -without passing 
through Florence, may save three posts, by 
taking the direct road through Poggibonsi 
to Siena. This journey en voituritr occu¬ 
pies about six days and a half; and 1 oitu - 


3 Recco 
If Rapallo 
j| Chiavari 
24 Bracco 
if Muttarana 
if Borghetto 
3 Spezia 
24- Sarzana 
if JMvenza 
1 Massa 
1 Pietra-Santa 
l Via-Reggio 
1 Torretta 

1 Pisa—Between Torretta and Pisa Tra* 

- vellers cross the Serchio in a ferry. 

59.J posts. 

ROUTE FROM LEGHORN, THROUGH 
PISA TO FLORENCE. 

2 Pisa 

l La Fornacette 
1 Pastel del Bosco 

l La Scat a— Inn, La Post a, and very 
uncomfortable. 

1 Ambrogiana—lnn, La Posta, and 
very uncomfortable. 

1 La Lustra 

1 Firenze—The whole road, from Leg¬ 

horn to Florence, is excellent, and 
almost totally exempt from hills: 
the inns are bad : but this is of 
little consequence to persons who 
go post; as the jonrney does not 
occupy more than ten hours 
with post-horses. Persons who 
travel en voiturier, and sleep 
upon the road, generally stop at 
Capretia ; which is about mid-way 
between Pisa and Florence ; and 
where the Inn is better than 
those at La Scala and Arnbro- 

- giana +. 

8 posts. 

ROUTE FROM PISA,THROUGH LUCCA 
AND PISTOJA, TO FLORENCE. 

If Lucca—An extra half-post is paid on 
going from Pisa to Lucca ; and an 
extra half-post on quitting Lucca. 

2 Borgo-a-Buggiano 
If Pistoja 

if Prato 
If Firenze. 

8 posts. 

ROUTE FROM PISA TO MODENA. 

5 Pistoja 
1 Piastre 

rins usually convey an English carriage, 
containing four persons, from Leghorn to 
Rome, for about sixteen louis-d’ors. 

The direct road from Leghorn, through 
Pisa, to Poggibonsi, is as follows ; 

Posts 5, to La Scala, 

1 , to Cammiano, 

2, to Poggibonsi, 

2 C 2 


S88 APPENDIX. [Ch. VI. 


I S. Marcella —The Inn here Is tolerably 
good, aiid pleasantly situated on a 
hill. 

1 Piano- Asinutico 

| Bosco-Lungo— Last post of Tuscany. 

1 Piece di Pelago —First post of the 
Modenese. 

1 Batigazzo 
l Monte-Cenere. 

Puullo 

Sen a de' Mazzoni 
1 S. Venanzio 

J Formigine 

| Modena — Travellers are frequently 
charged one post from S. Venanzio 
to Formigine, and the same from 

-• Formigine to Modena. 

J5J posts. 

The journey from Pistoja to Mo¬ 
dena was performed with ease by an 
English Gentleman during the month 
of November, and without an Avant- 
Courier to order horses, within twen¬ 
ty-four hours : or, to speak more 
precisely, he was on the road travel¬ 
ling seventeen hours and a half, and 
stopped for changing horses, 8fc. y 
three hours. The ascents are ju¬ 
diciously formed ; the road is good, 
and well defended from danger; 
but the accommodations are bad. 

The distance from Modena to 
Mantua is five posts and a half. 

Voiturins will take an English 
post-chaise, carrying three or four 
persons from Lucca through Pistoja 
to Florence, in one day and a half, 
for nine scudi, buona-mano not in¬ 
clusive, and they will likewise con¬ 
vey luggage from Florence to Rome 
for two pezzi-duri the hundred 
weight. 

p 

ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH 
SIENA, TO ROME, 

Previous to undertaking this jour¬ 
ney, it is advisable for British sub¬ 
jects, if they travel in their own 
carriage, to apply to the British 
Consul-General at Rome, for a 


Lancia passare for Ponte-Centino, 
and another for the Porta del Po- 
polo at Rome. 

1 i S. Casciano—X post-royal. A third 
horse. 

1 Tavarnelle —A third horse. 

I Poggibonsi —Best inn, 11 Lione rosso. 
The road from Florence hither is 
hilly, and, in general, paved. 

I Castiglioncello —A third horse. Road 
good. 

X Siena—Best inn, L’Aquila Nera , al¬ 
ready mentioned. Road hilly, but 
good *. 

1 Montarone 

X Buonconvento —Road from Siena hi¬ 
ther excellent; though, near Bu- 
onconvento, there is a very steep 
hill. The Albergo del Cavalletto, 
in the last-named town, contains 
good beds ; but the rooms are dirty. 

X Torrenieri —A third horse to Foderina, 
and the same returning. 

1 Poderina 

1 Ricorsi — A third horse to Radicofani. 

X Radicofani —A large and good Inn, 
already mentioned. Road from 
Buonconvcnto hither excellent, but 
hilly. 

| Ponte-Centino —This is the first Cus¬ 
tom-house in the Ecclesiastical ter¬ 
ritories : and Travellers who are 
not provided with a Lascia pas¬ 
sare for Ponte-Centino meet with 
an unpleasant detention here, and 
pay for having their baggage 
plumbed. The road from the Post- 
house on Radicofani to the torrent 
at the base of the mountain is ex¬ 
cellent ; but thence it traverses six 
or seven times the bed of the tor¬ 
rent ; which bed consists of large 
loose stones occasioning continual 
jolts; and, beyond Toricelli, this 
torrent (as has been already men¬ 
tioned,) is, after rain, sometimes 
dangerous: but, in case of neces¬ 
sity , Travellers may sleep at Tori¬ 
celli f. 

1 Aquapendente— The road beyond the 
torrent, to this town, is excellent; 
and the Inn here tolerably good. 

5 San-Lorenzo nuovo —A good inn, al¬ 
ready mentioned. Road excellent. 

1 Bolsenu —Road excellent. A third 
horse to Montefiascone. 

1 Mon/efiascone— Road good, but hilly. 

1 Viterbo—A good inn, already men¬ 
tioned. A third horse to the moun¬ 
tain. 


♦Travellers would do wisely to take wine for which sum the keys are brought to the 

and water from Siena, for the rest of their opposite gate, and delivered up when their 

journey, both being excellent here, and ownersTquit Siena. 

unwholesome in most of the succeeding t The price of oxen per pair, for aiding 
towns. It is likewise advisable to take post-horses to draw heavy carriages from 

truit from Siena. On entering this city, Ponte-Centino up the mountain of Radi- 

Travellers are obliged to leave the keys of cofani, is sixty baiocchi. 
their trunks at the Gate, and pay one lira ; 


ITALY—ROUTES. 


Ch. VI.] 

1 La Montagna —Road good, but hilly. 

1 Bonciglione —Two bad Inns. Road 
good. 

1 Monterosi —Two inns; La Posta the 
best. Road good. 

1 Baccano —Inn, La Posta, and tolera¬ 

bly good. 

1 Storta 

lloma—The road between Monterosi 

~—• and the Ponte-Mollc,from the spot 

23 w here the Loretto and Siena routes 
join, is occasionally rough ; but, 
from the Ponte-Molle to Rome, ex¬ 
cellent. Travellers who are pro¬ 
vided with a Lascia passare for 
the Porta del Popolo, have no 
trouble with respect to Custom¬ 
house Officers; but persons, not 
so provided, are obliged to drive, 
in the first instance, to the Custom¬ 
house ; and give from five to ten 
pauls, in order to save their luggage 
from a tedious examination. An 
extra quarter of a post is charged 
on entering Rome; and an extra 
half-post on quitting it. 

ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH 
PERUGIA, TO ROME. 

Ponte a Sieve — A post-royal. 

lj Incisa 

2 Levane 

2 Arezzo— Inn, La Posta. 

1 jf Castiglion Fiorentino 
§ Camuscia —Inn, La Posta. 

1^ Case del Piano 

1 Magione —A third horse to Perugia, 
and vice versa. 

1J Perugia—Inn, La Corona, and good. 
The road from Florenceto Perugia 
is excellent; unless it be during 
wet seasons ; when the Lake of 
Thrasymenus sometimes overflows, 
and renders this route dangerous. 

1 La Madonna degli Avgeli —A third 
horse to Perugia,but not vice versd. 

1 Foligno —Inn, La Posta, and tolera¬ 
bly good. 

1 Le Vcne 

1 Spoteto —Inn, La Posta, and good. 
A third horse to Strcttura, and 
vice versd. The mountain of La 
Somma, over which the road 
passes, is the highest point in this 
part of the Apennine. La Somma 
is supposed to derive its name 
from a temple dedicated to Jupi- 
ter-Summanus, which stood on its 
summit. 

1 Strettvra 

1 Terni —Inn, La Posta, and very good. 

1 Kami —A third horse from Narni to 
Otricoli, and vice versd. 

1 Otricoli— 'l bis town stands about two 
miles distant from what is supposed 
to have been the ancient Otricu - 
lum, which was seated on the Tiber. 
£ Borghetto —Between this village and 
Otricoli the road crosses the Tiber 


389 

on a fine Bridge, erected during 
the reign of Augustus, and repaired 
by Sixtus V. A third horse from 
Borghetto to Otricoli, but not vice 

versd. 

£ Chita-Castellana—La Croce bianca 
is a tolerable inn, though small. 

1 Kepi —Inn not comfortable as a sleep- 
place. 

| Monterosi 
1 Baccano 
1 Storta 

1 J Roma—The road from Perugia to Rom« 

- is excellent. 

27£ posts. 

ROUTE FROM GENOA, THROUGH BO 
LOGNA,;RIMINI, SINIGAGLIA, AN 
CONA, LORETTO, AND TERNI, TO 
ROME. 

3 Campo-Maronc 

4 Voltaggio 
4 Novi 

Tortona— La Croce bianca is a goo 
inn. 

t Voghera 
Castcggio 

Broni —Best Inn, La Posta . 

2 Castel S. Giovanni —Between this spot 
and Piacenza the road traverses 
the bed of the Trebia. 

2 Piacenza 

2 Fiorenzuola — The Albergo della 
Posta is a good Inn. 

1 S. Donnino 
1 Castcl-Gue/fo 
1 Parma 
1 S. llario 
1 Reggio 
1 Rubiera 
1 Modena 
li Samoggia 

l| Bologna — Between Samoggia and this 
city there is a bridge thrown across 
the Reno. Bologna is famous for 
quinces. 

1J S. Kiccolo— The road crosses the Sa- 
vena on a bridge. 

l£ Jtnola —This town, the Forum Cor - 
nelii of the Romans, is seated on 
the ancient Via Emilia, which leads 
from Bologna to Rimini. 

I Faenza —Between Imola and this 
town the road crosses the Santerno 
on a Bridge. Faenza, anciently 
Faventia, was heretofore cele¬ 
brated for earthenware, to which 
it gave the name of Faience. 
Part of the road between S. Nic- 
colo and Faenza is, during wet 
weather, dangerous. 

I Forli —Anciently Forum Livii. The 
cupola of the Cathedral, painted 
hy Cignani.and the Chapel oj the 
Madonna del Fnrco, together with 
several pictures in other Churches, 
merit notice. The Square is one 
of the finest in Italy; and the Post 4 
house is a tolerable inn. 


390 


APPENDIX. 


lj Cesena— The road, previous to enter¬ 
ing this town, crosses the Savio on 
a magnificent modern bridge. Ce¬ 
sena contains a curious Library 
belonging to the Minor Conven¬ 
tuals, and a colossal statue of 
Puts VJ. Between two and three 
miles from this town, the road 
crosses the Pisatello, which flows 
into the Fiumecino, supposed to 
have been anciently called the Ru¬ 
bicon. Some authors, however, 
assert that the Pisatello itself was 
the stream which divided Cisalpine 
Gaul from Italy. 

1 Savigna.no —Anciently Compitum. 

1 Rimini —The road between this town 
and Fano is the ancient Via Fla- 
minia. Rimini, the Araminium 
of the Ancients, and once a con¬ 
siderable city,still exhibits remains 
of former magnificence. The 
Bridge over the Marecchia, origi¬ 
nally the Arminum, appears to 
. have been either built or repaired 

by Augustus and Tiberius: it is 
situated at the junction of the Via 
Emilia with the Via Flaminia; and 
particularly merits observation. 
On quitting Rimini, the Pesaro- 
road passes under a Triumphal 
Arch, erected in honour of Au¬ 
gustus. 

Ravenna, the seat of Empire under 
Theodoric, is only four posts dis¬ 
tant from Rimini, and merits no¬ 
tice, on account of its antiquities ; 
and likewise because it contains 
the tomb of Dante. Best inn, La 
Fontana. 

lj Cattolica —Previous to arriving at 
this town, the road crosses the 
Conca on a bridge ; but, when the 
Conca rises high in consequence of 
rain, this road is dangerous. Be¬ 
tween Cattolica and Rimini are 
ruins of the ancient city of Conca, 
inundated by the sea; and at a 
distance, on the left, is the little 
Republic of San-Marino. 

1 Pesaro—The great square, which is 
handsome, contains a statue of Ur¬ 
ban VIII. Several antiquities and 
some tine paintings may be found 
in this town. The figs of Pesaro 
are deemed the best in Italy ; and 
the Theatre is remarkably elegant*. 
1 Fano —The modern name of this town 
seems to be derived from a Fano, 
or Temple of Fortune, which once 
stood here. The ancient name, 
according to Vitruvius, was Colo- 
nia Fanestris. The objects best 
worth notice at Fano are the re¬ 
mains of the triumphal Arch of 

* The Villa, once inhabited by the late 
Queen of England , is about a mile from 
Pesaro : and in her pleasure grounds are 
tw'o Monuments* the one erected to the 


[Ch. VI. 

Constantine—the Library—the 
Theatre — and the Cathedral, 
which contains paintings by Do- 
menichino. The Inn here is tole¬ 
rably good. 

1 Marotta —Between Fano and Marotta 
the road crosses the Metro, an¬ 
ciently Metaurus , celebrated for 
the defeat and death of Asdrubal, 
during the second Punic war. 

1 Sinigaglia—So called from its Founders, 
the GalH-Senones. This town is 
enlivened by a celebrated Fair, 
during the last week of July. 

1 Case-Bruciate ‘ 

l£ Ancona—So called from being built in 
an angle resembling an elbow. 
This is a commercial town, with a 
fine Harbour, and a magnificent 
Quay. The triumphal Arch 
erected by the Roman senate, in 
honour of the Emperor Trajan, 
for having improved the Harbour 
of Ancona at his own expense, pe¬ 
culiarly merits notice ; as it is finely 
proportioned, well preserved, and 
composed of larger blocks of mar¬ 
ble than we find in any other an¬ 
cient Roman edifice. Clement 
XII. made Ancona a Free-Port. 

Oblong shell-fish called Ballari, or 
Dattili del mare, are found alive 
in large stones on this coast : they 
were deemed a great delicacy by 
the ancient Romans; and are, ac¬ 
cording to Pliny, so luminous that 
they shine in the mouth of the per¬ 
son who eats them. 

]£ Osimo 

1 Loretto—The road between Ancona 
and Loretto traverses a beautiful 
plain intersected by the rivers Mu- 
sone and Aspido. Few of the ori¬ 
ginal treasures of the celebrated 
Santlssima Casa of Loretto now 
remain: but the liberal donations 
of the Bonaparte Family, and 
other wealthy Roman Catholics, 
have, in some degree, compensated 
for the loss sustained, during the 
Pontificate of Pius VI., by the 
Church of the Madonna at Loretto. 
This Church is magnificent; and 
in its centre, immediately under 
the cupola, stands the Santissima 
Casa, cased with Carrara marble 
finely sculptured ; and containing 
a picture of the Nativity, by Anni¬ 
bale Caracci, and a Holy Family, 
by Raphael; together with nume¬ 
rous treasures of various descrip¬ 
tions. The Piazza, fronting the 
Church of the Madonna, merits 
notice ; as does the subterranean 
Dispensary, which is furnished 

memory of her Father, and the other to the 
memory of her Daughter, the amiable and 
ever to be lamented Princess Charlotte of 
"Wales. 


ITALY—BERGAMO—BRESCIA—VERONA. 


391 


Ch. VI.] 

with three hundred Gallipots, 
painted after the designs of Ra¬ 
phael, or Ginlio Roniaiio. 

§ Recunatl 
f Sambnchcto 

1 Macerata—The Post-house here is a 

f ood inn. The country between 
lOretto and Macerata is beautiful, 
and richly cultivated; and near 
the latter town are rrtlhS of the city 
of Heloia-Ricina, built by Sep- 
tifnius SeVerus. Macerata is fa¬ 
mous for artichokes. 

1^ Tolentino —The Square in this lowh 
exhibits a well-preserved piece of 
ancient Sculpture. Alter quitting 
Tolentir<o,the road traverses a part 
of the Apennines 

1 Valcimara —The number of torrents 
which issue from the eastern side 
of the Apennine is so considerable, 
that Travellers should not venture 
to go by way of Ancona artd Lo- 
retto to Rome, after recent inun¬ 
dations, caused either by hard rain, 
or the melting of snow. 

1 Ponte-la-Trave 
1 Sera va lie 
1 Case-Nuove. 

1 Foligno 

12£ Roma — See the Route from Florence 

-through Perugia to Rome. 

74J posts. 

ROUTE FROM MILAN THROUGH BER¬ 
GAMO, BRESCIA, YERONA, VI¬ 
CENZA, AND PADUA, TO VENICE, 
BOLOGNA, AND FLORENCE. 

1J Colombarolo— The country from Mi¬ 
lan hither is beautiful, 
l Vaprio 
§ Osio 

1 Eergamo — Near Canonica Travellers 
cross the Adda, anciently the Adua, 
in a ferry. The Bergamasco is 
highly cultivated, fertile, and po¬ 
pulous ; the town of Bergamo 
large, well fortified, and adorned 
with a handsome Cathedral, which 
contains paintings of the modern 
Venetian school: but the best pic¬ 
tures are in the Church of S. Ma¬ 
ria Maggiore. Principal inn ,L'Al- 
bergo Reale. Bergamo is called 
the birth-place of Harlequin. This 
town is enlivened by a celebrated 
Fair, during the latter part of Au¬ 
gust, and the commencement of 
September ; and its resident inha¬ 
bitants amount to above thirty 
thousand persons, 
j Cavernugo 
2 Palazzolo 
,i Ospedaletto 

2 2 Brescia—The road from Bergamo hi¬ 
ther traverses a rich plain at the 
foot of the Alps. Brescia is a con¬ 
siderable town, seated at the base 


of a mountain, between the rivers 
Mellaand Naviglio, artd supposed 
to contain forty-fivethousand inha¬ 
bitants ; its Fortifications are strong, 
and defended by a citadel. The 
Palazzo di Glnsiiziti is a remark¬ 
able edifice, built partly in the 
Gothic?, and partly in the Grecian 
style, and contains fine frescos, to¬ 
gether with other good paintings. 
The Cathedral is a handsome mo¬ 
dern structure. The Churches of 
S. Nuzaro at Carmine, and S. 
Afra , contain fine pictures of the 
Venetian school, as do Several of 
the Palaces. The Mazziicthelli 
collection of medals , and the pub¬ 
lic Library, merit notice. The 
Theatre is handsome; and Le 
due Torri is deemed the best inn. 

Ponte S. Marco. 

1 DesenZano —After passing Ponte S. 
Marco, the road lies on the luxu¬ 
riant margin of the Lagb di Garda; 
whose waters resemble a little sea, 
and contain a fish called Carpione, 
which was deemed particularly de¬ 
licious by ancient Epicures. The 
Lagodi Garda, formerly calledpLa- 
cus Benacus, is about thirty-five 
miles in length; and, where widest, 
fourteen in breadth : the Alps in 
great measure surround it, and the 
picture it exhibits is beautiful. 

1^ Castel-Nuovo 

Verona—On quitting the margin of the 
Lago di Garda, the road enters 
the Veronese, which is one of the 
most fertile parts of Italy ; abound¬ 
ing in corn, wine, oil, fruits, mul¬ 
berry-trees, rice, 4:c. Verona, 
pleasantly situated on the Adige 
(anciently Atagis), and one of the 
oldest cities of Italy, is supposed 
to contain 50,000 inhabitants, in¬ 
cluding its suburbs. The fortifi¬ 
cations were constructed by San- 
Micheli. Here is a Triumphal 
Arch, called Porta del Borsari, 
and erected in the reign of Gal- 
lienns; and an Amphitheatre, 
supposed to have been built during 
the reign of Trajan, and almost 
perfect. It contains 23,484 spec¬ 
tators commodiously seated ; and 
is composed of large blocks of 
marble without cement. Near this 
magnificent monument of anti¬ 
quity, is the modern Theatre, 
a fine structure, the entrance to 
which is by a beautiful portico, 
built by Palladio. The tombs of 
the Scaligeri Family merit no¬ 
tice, as does the Palazzo del 
Consiglio, a noble edifice, built by 
San-Sovino. The Chiesa di S. 
Giorgio contains a picture of the 
martyrdom of that Saint, by Paolo 
Veronese ; and the Church of S. 
Bernardino contains the cele- 


§92 APPENDIX. t Ch - YL 


brated Cappella-Yarcsca, by San- 
Micheli. Verona gave birth to 
the Poets Catullus and ^Emilius 
Macrus ; the Historian Cornelius 
Nepos ; Pliny the Elder ; Vitru¬ 
vius, the celebrated Architectof the 
Augustan age ; Paolo Veronese; 
and many other persons of dis¬ 
tinguished abilities. 

The petrified fishes found in Monte 
Bolca, near Verona, are curious. 
Principal inns, Le due Torri, and 
La Torre di Londra*. 
l Caldicro 
1J Monte-Rello 

1J Vicenza—From Verona hither the road 
is bordered by mulberry-trees in¬ 
terlaced with vines; and exhibits 
a view of the Alps which divide 
Italy from Germany. Vicenza, an¬ 
ciently called Vicetta, is delight- 
fully situated on the Bacchiglione, 
contains, including its suburbs, 
above 30,000 inhabitants; and is 
the birth-place of the celebrated 
Architect Palladio, who has adorn¬ 
ed it with his finest works; namely, 
the Olympic Theatre!! the liusi¬ 
lica ; and several Palaces in the 
town, (where the House he once 
inhabited may still be seen;) the 
triumphal Arch leading to the 
Campo Marzo ; and the Church 
of the Madonna del Monte, not 
far distant. The Rotunda of the 
Casa-Cnpra was likewise built by 
Palladio. Best inn, 1 due Rode, 
and very comfortable. The wine 
of Vicenza has the reputation of 
being particularly wholesome; and 
the climate, during summer, is 
one of the best in northern Italy. 

* About half a mile distant from the walls 
of Verona, in a Garden, once the Cemetery 
of a Francescan Convent, is a Sarcophagus, 
called the Tomb of Juliet; and made of 
Verona marble ; with a place for her head, 
a socket for a candle, and two holes for the 
admission of air. Juliet is supposed to have 
died in the year 1303, when Bartolomeo 
della Scala, (or degli Scaligeri,) was Lord 
of Verona: and Shakspeare probably in¬ 
tended to represent one of the Scaligeri, by 
his Escalus. The names of the rival fami¬ 
lies, whom our great Poet has immorta¬ 
lized, were Capello, and Montechio : the 
tomb of the former stood in the Cemetery 
of the Francescan Church, and they had a 
palace in the town of Verona: they were 
highly favoured by the Scaligeri; a circum¬ 
stance which probably offended the Mon- 
techi, a more ancient and affluent family 
than the other, and possessors of the Castle 
of Montechio (situated about fifteen miles 
from Verona,) and likewise proprietors of 
a palace in the Veronetta. After the mar¬ 
riage and fray, Juliet came to the Fran¬ 
cescan Convent, under pretence of confcs- 


1J Slesega— The country from Verona 
hither is beautiful. 

1 Padua— The Stella d’oro has been 
already mentioned as a good inn : 
the Aquila d’oro likewise is a good 
one. 
l£ Polo 

Fusina —Road, from Milan hither, ex¬ 
cellent. 

Venice—by water, five miles. 

Travellers w ho go by land to Fusina, 
usually return by water to Padua; 
whence the distance is— 

1& to Monselice 
1^ ltovigo 
li Polesella 

l| Ferrara—A Procaccio goes twice a 
week from Ferrara to Bologna, by 
water. 
l£ Malabergo 
1 Capodargine 
1 Bologna 

li Pianoro —Hence to Lojano a third 
horse, or oxen, to every calesse : 
and for all the sharp ascents of this 
passage of the Apennine carriages 
which usually travel witli three 
horses must have four, and car¬ 
riages which usually travel with 
four horses must have six, beside 
oxen. 

Lojano 
1 Filigare 
1 Covigliajo 

1 Monte-Carclli— On going from Monte- 
Carelli to Covigliajo a third horse, 
or oxen. 

1 Cafaggiuolo 
1 Fonte Buona 
1 Firenze. 


42J posts. 

sion; and her confessor, Father Lorenzo 
(called, in the Compendio from which this 
account is extracted, Leonardo of Reggio) 
gave her a powerful soporific ; at the same 
time sending to inform her relations that 
she had been suddenly attacked by illness; 
and, as the soporific took effect before their 
arrival, they thought her dead : conse¬ 
quently, she was not removed from the 
Convent; but immediately put into her 
coffin: and, according to a custom which 
still prevails, a lighted candle w r as placed 
in the coffin, near her head ; and, after the 
funeral ceremony, the lid, according to 
usual practice, was put on, in private. 
Father Lorenzo, when resolved to admi¬ 
nister the soporific, sent a letter to Mantua, 
informing Romeo of this resolution; but, 
before the letter arrived, he heard the re¬ 
port of Juliet’s death, left Mantua, scaled 
• the wall of the Cemetery belonging to the 
Francescan Convent, and swallowed the 
poison. Next day Bartolomeo degli Sca- 
ligeri, and the two rival families, assisted 
at the obsequies of the unfortunate Romeo 
and Juliet. 



ITALY—NOVARA—VERCELLI, %c. 


393 


Ch. VI.] 


ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BOLOGNA, 
THROUGH PIACENZA, PARMA, 
REGGIO, AND MODENA. 

11 Melegnano 

l| Lodi Inns, UAlbergo del Sole; 1 
tre Re ; be. • 
lj Casal-Pusterlengo 
2 Piacenza 

12 Bologna—See “ Ponte from Genoa, 
through Bologna, Rimini, Sinaga- 
lia, Ancona, Loretto, and Terni, to 

- Rome.” 

18J posts. 


ROUTE FROM MILAN TO TURIN. 


11 Sedriano 

I Buff a lor a 

3 Novara—This is an episcopal city of 
high antiquity, and its Cathedral 
merits notice. Here are three 
inns, Les trois Rois, La Poisson 
d’or, and Le Fuucon. 

II Or/engo 

l^Vercelli—Between Novara and Ver- 
celli the country is marshy, and 
the air unwholesome. Rice grows 
luxuriantly here, and seems to be 
almost the only grain which is 
cultivated in this neighbourhood. 
Vcrcelli, seated at the confluence 
of the Cerva and the Sesia, is a 
considerable town; and the Por¬ 
tico of its Cathedral merits no¬ 
tice. The principal inns are, Le 
Lion d’or, and Les trois Rois. 

If S. Germano 

2 i C'/glia no 

1J Rondissone 

I Chi v as so 

lj Settimo 

II Turin—Between Settimo ?nd Turin 

the road is excellent, and the coun¬ 
try fertile, well cultivated, and 
watered by the rivers Doria, Stura, 
Molone, Oreo, and Dora-Baltea, 
all of which descend from the 

- Alps. 

18 posts. 

ROUTE FROM AOSTE TO TURIN.* * * § 


3J ChCUillon 
3f Donas 
3 Ivr£e 
2£ Caluse 
lj Chivasso 


* There are no relays of post horses at 
the three first stations. 

f There are no relays of post horses be¬ 
tween Coni and Nice; therefore, on this 
road, it is necessary to travel en voiturier. 

j Betw’een Limone and Scarena it is 
frequently difficult to travel in a carriage. 

§ The Hotel des Etrangers, (though 
not mentioned in the former part of this 
work,) is one of the best inns at Nice. 

|| An extra quarter of a post is paid on 
quilting Alessandria. 


3 Turin 


17£ posts. 

ROUTE FROM TURIN, OVER THE 
MARITIME ALPS, TO NICE. 

2i Carignano 
2| Racccnigi 
1® Savigliano 
2| Centale 

lj Coni—Best inn. La Postal. 

I Borgo S. Dalmazio 
21 Limone j 

4 Tenda 
2-1 Rreglio 
2! Sospello 
‘ 2 % Scarena 

Nice§—Persons going this road should 
provide wine for their journey at 

- Turin. 

27J posts. 

ROUTE FROM TURIN, OVER THE 
BOCC1IETTA TO GENOA. 

II Truffarello 
tl Poirino 

l| Dusino 
l| La Gamhetta 

l| Asti— Inns, La Rosa rossa; and 11 
Leone d’oro. 
l! Annone 
11 Feliciatio 

21 Alessandria—This town contains, be¬ 
side The Albergo vecchio d’Italia, 
already mentioned, two inns, 
namely, 1 tre Re and La Locanda 
d’lnghilterra ||. 

3! Novi V 

4 Voltaggio —A third horse for the pas¬ 
sage of the Bochetta **. 

4 Campo-Marone —Inn, La Posta. 

3 Genoa—The journey from Alessan¬ 
dria over the Bocchetta to Genoa, 
with post-horses, seldom occupies 

- more than ten hours. 

27J posts. 

ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES. 

Previous to undertaking thisjour- 
ney it is requisite for British Subjects 
to obtain passports from the British 
Consul-General, countersigned at the 
Police-Office, and likewise by the 
Neapolitan Minister at Rome. 

II A third and fourth horse all the year 
from Novi to Yoltaggio, and vice versa ; 
together with an extra charge of twenty- 
five centimes per horse, on account of the 
badness of the road. 

** A third and fourth horse all the year 
from Voltaggio to Campo-Marone, and 
vice versa ; together with an extra charge 
of twenty-five centimes per horse, for the 
passage of the Bocchetta. 





394 


APPENDIX. 


Passports originally granted by a 
French Ambassador must be signed 
by the French Minister resident at 
Rome, before they are presented to 
the Neapolitan Minister for his sig¬ 
nature. 


li 


Torre di mezza-via — Hence, to Home, 
the charge is only one post and a 
quarter. 

Alba no 

Genzano—A third horse from Albano 
to Genzano, (but not vice versti;) 
and for a carriage drawn with either 
four, or six horses, two in ad¬ 
dition. 


1 Velletri 


tre 


1 Cisterna 
Torre de' 
Ponti 

1 Bocca di Finme 
1 Mesa 

1 Ponte Maggiore 
1 Tcrracina 


A third horse 
from Velletri to 
Genzano,(but not 
l ice versa;) and 
for a carriage 
drawn by either 
four or six horses, 
two in addition. 
The journey from 
Velletri to Ter¬ 
racina, usually 
occupies from 
four to five hours, 
with post-horses. 


lj Fondi —A third horse in addition to 
every pair, from Fondi to Itri. 

1 ltri 

1 Mola—From Mola to Itri a third 
horse, so far as the Cenotaph of Ci¬ 
cero. The price of this horse is 
ten grains. 

1 Garigliuno —The toll paid for every 
four-wheeled close carriage on 
springs, which crosses the Garig- 
liano, is six carlini; and for every 
open carriage, four carlini. From 
Garigliano to S. Agata a third 
horse is added to every pair. 

1 S. Agata 

1 Sparanisi —A third horse in addition 
to every pair, from Sparanisi to 
S. Agata. 

1 Capua—At the barrier here, four ducats 
are paid for every coach, or post- 
chaise; and two piastres for every 
open carriage on springs. 

1 A versa 

1 Naples—A extra half-post is paid on 

- entering and on quitting this city *. 

20f posts; real distance, 19| posts. 


Persons in robust health, who 
travel post from Rome to Naples, 
may, by setting out very early the 
first morning, reach Terracina be¬ 
fore the close of day ; and again, by 
setting out very early the second 


* Travellers, on entering Naples, are ob¬ 
liged to deposit their passports at the Po- 


[Ch. VI. 


morning, they may reach Naples 
that night. If, however, ill health, 
short days, or any other cause, com¬ 
pel Travellers to sleep two nights on 
the road, the best plan is to go to 
Velletri the first day, to set out soon 
after sunrise on the second day, drive 
to Mola di Gaeta, sleep there; and on 
the third day, by setting out early, 
it is practicable to reach Naples at 
the common hour for dinner. By 
pursuing this plan Travellers pass 
the Pontine Marshes at the whole- 
sornest time, namely, between nine 
in the morning and three in the after¬ 
noon. 

A light Carretella, containing two 
persons only, with but little luggage, 
usually goes from Rome to Terracina 
in ten hours and a half ; and returns 
in nine hours—goes from Terracina 
to Naples in fourteen hours, and re¬ 
turns in eleven hours. 

ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO PjESTUM. 

1J Torre del Annunziata —A post-royal; 
on account of which an extra half¬ 
post is charged, 
lj Nocera 

Salerno—From Nocera to Salerno an 
additional horse to every pair. 

l Vicenza 
l Eboli 

Pas turn, by way of Persano. 


9j posts, including the post-royal. 

ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 

Posts. 

1 from Naples to Caivano. 

1 from Caivano to Caserta. 

J from Caserta to S. Ijeucio. 

1 from Naples to Pozzuoli. 

1 from Pozzuoli to Fusaro, or Licola. 
l from Naples to Astroni. 

\ from Naples to Cupo-ai-Monte. 
l from Naples to Portici, La Favor it a, 
or Torre del Greco. 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM PISA 
TO MASSA AND CARRARA, WITH 
AN ENGLISH POST-CIIAISE, DRAWN 
BY FOUR HORSES. 


Via-Reggio . 
Pietra-Santa . 
Massa . , 

Carrara 


Miles. Hours. 

19 64 

G 'll 

7 14 


lice-Office ; neither can they, till their de¬ 
parture, legally reclaim them. 





ITALY—ROUTES. 


395 


Ch. VI.] 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM ROME 
TO FLORENCE, THROUGH PERU¬ 
GIA, WITH AN ENGLISH COACH, 
DRAWN BY FOUR MULES. 


. Hours. 

Monti-rosi . . 7 

Civita-Castellana . 

Terni . . . 74 

Spoleto . . 54 Between Stret- 

tura and this town, to ascend the 
mountain of La Somma, we had 
two oxen in addition to our 
mules. 

Hours, 

Foligno . . 44 

Perugia . . 54 To ascend the 

mountain on which Perugia stands 
■we had two oxen in addition to 
our mules. 

Hours. 

Torricella . . 44 

Camuscia . . 6 

Arezzo . . 54 

San-Giovanni . 64 

Firenze . . 7 

It is deemed unwholesome to travel 
from Florence through Perugia to 
Rome from the time when the great 
heats commence till after the au¬ 
tumnal rains have fallen : and it is 
almost equally unwholesome to tra¬ 
vel from Rome through Siena to 
Florence, during the great heats *. 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM FLO¬ 
RENCE THROUGH SIENA TO ROME, 


WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISE 

DRAWN BY 

THREE HORSES. 


Hours. 

Poggibonsi . 

. 7—First day. 

Siena . . 

. 4 

Buonconvento 

. 4 

S. Quirico 

. 3—Second day. 

La Scula . 


Badicofani . 

. 3* 

Torricelli 

. 24 — Third day. 

S. Lorenzo-Nuovo 34 

Bolsena 

. 2—From S. Lorenzo 

Nuovo hither the road lies on the 

margin 

of the Lake of Bolsena; 

the air 

of which has been already 

mentioned as unwholesome. 


Hours. 

Montefiascone 

. 34—Fourth day. 

Viterbo . 

• 

Monterosi 

. 7—Fifth day. 

Roma . . 

. 7 


Days. Posts. 

1st 44 Boulogne . *. 

2 d Mmtreuil . 

* Persons who wish to see the Cascade of 
Terni, and avoid sleeping at Torricella, 
where the inn is comfortless, should stop 
the first night at Civil u-Cas tell ana the 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM ROME 
TO NAPLES, WITH AN ENGLISH 
POST-CHAISE. DRAWN BY THREE 
HORSES. 


Hours. 

Velletri ... 6—First day. 
Terracina . . f»4—Second day. 

Fondi . . .2 

S.Agata . . 6—Third day. 

Capua . . .34 

Naples . . 34 

On returning from Naples to 
Rome, British Travellers must have 
passports from their own Ambassa¬ 
dor in the first-named city, counter¬ 
signed at the Police-Office, and also 
by the Roman Consul: and it is 
likewise advisable for persons who 
travel in their own carriage to en¬ 
deavour to obtain from the British 
Consul-General at Rome, a la-scia 
pas.sare for Terracina, and another 
for the Porta di S. Giovanni at 
Rome. Persons who travel from 
Naples to Rome without having a 
Lascia passare for Terracina, are 
compelled, unless they go post, or 
hire horses of the Naples post-master 
for the whole journey, either to allow 
their trunks to be examined at Ter¬ 
racina, or to deposit four piastres 
for having them plumbed. 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM CA¬ 
LAIS TO ROME, DURING THE WIN¬ 
TER OF 1820 , WITH AN ENGLISH 
POST-CHAISE, DRAWN BY FOUR 
STRONG HORSES. 

The Voiturin was Emery; who 
charged, for the horses and two 
meals a day, with three good bed¬ 
rooms every night, for one master 
and two servants, an hundred and 
ten Louis-d’ors; he defraying all 
expenses, except the customary fees 
to Servants at Inns. Had this jour¬ 
ney been undertaken at a more fa¬ 
vourable season, Emery would not 
have demanded so high a price. 


Inns. 

Parker's Hotel d’Angleterre. 
Le Renurd d’or. 


second at Terni —the third at Spoleto —the 
fourth at Perugia —the fifth at Camuscia, 
and the sixth at S. Giovanni; or the Lo- 
canda del Plan della Fonte. 





393 APPENDIX. [Ch. VI. 


Days. 

Posts. 

Inns. 


7 

Bernay ... 

La Poste. 

3d 


Airaines . 

Jjd Poste. 


9 

Granviliiers . 

Hotel d’Angletcrre.+ 

4th 


Beauvais . 

L’ Ecu de France. 


8 

Beaumont ... 

Le grand ('erf. 

5lh 

4 

Paris .... 

Hotel de Montauban. 

Oth 


Montgeron . 

La Vilte de Lyon. 



Melon... 

La Gall'ere.Ar 

7th 


Montereuu .. 

Le Lyon d’or. 


8 

Sens ... 

La Bouteitle. 

8th 


Joigny . 

Les cinq Mineurs. 


7£ 

Auxcrre .. 

Hotel de Beaune. 

9th 


Lucy-le-Bois ... 

Hotel des Diligence $.+ 


H 

Rouvray. .. 

La Poste. 

10th 


Saulieu . 

Hotel de S. Nicolas. 

About 6 

Ernay . 

Hotel de la Croix blanche.Ar 

11th 


La Roche Pot . 

Lcs bons Enfans.+ 

About 7 

Chalons-sur-Saone ...... 

Les trois Faisans. 

12th 


Tournus ... 

Hotel du Sauvage. 



Macon . 

Hotel de l'Europe. 

13 th 


Huit Franche . 

Le Faucon.+ 


Si 

Lyon *. 

Hotel de l'Europe. 

14th 

3J 

La Verpellier .. 

A country Inn, not bad. 

15th 


Le Tour du Pin t ...... 

Le Soldi. 


n 

Les Eschellcs . 

La Poste. 

16th 


Chambery .. 

La Poste. 


5 

Montmeilian . 

Inn on the hill.+ 

17th 


Aiguebelte ... 

Hotel de VUnion. 


n 

S.'jean de Maurienne\.. 

La Poste. 

18th 


S. Michel . 

Hotel de Londres. 


4i 

Modane .. 

Hotel da Lion d’or. 

19th 

4 

Lanslebourg .. 

Hotel Royal. 


Owing to an uncommonly rapid 
and heavy fall of snow upon Mont 
Cenis, it was found needful here, to 
place the bodies of carriages in 
Traineaur, so far as Molaret; 
though the wheels were drawn over 
the mountain without being taken 
off their axles. Voiturins pay from 
twenty to thirty francs for conveying 
the body of a carriage, in this man¬ 


ner, from Lans-le-bourg to Molaret, 
or Susa : and Travellers, to avoid 
stopping at the former place, while 
their carriages are remounted, usu¬ 
ally proceed to the latter. Carriages, 
generally speaking, are five hours in 
ascending in a Traineau from Lans- 
le-bourg to La Grande Croix; and 
five hours in descending from La 
Grande Croix to Susa. 


Days. 

Posts. 


Inns. 

20 th 


La grande Croix . 

Delicious Trout may be procured herc.+ 


8 

Susa . 

La Post a. 

21st 


S. Ambrogio . 

Albergo della Vigna. 


n 

Turin . 

Locanda d’Inghilterra. 

22d 


Cilia Nuova . 

Albergo di S. Marco. 


n 

Asti . . 

II Lione d’oro. 

23d 


Alessandria .. 

Albergo Reale vecchio d’Italia. 


00 

7 'ortona§ . . 

La Croce bianca. 

24th 


Broni . 

La Post a. 


n 

Castel S. Giovanni || .... 

A Ibergo di S. Marco. 

25th 


Fiorenzuola . 

Lu Post a. 


5 

Bor go S. Donino . 

La Croce bianca. 

Beyond Lyon 

the inns do not furnish 

$ Just beyond Voghera a Bridge, which, 


+ French and Savoyard Frontier Custom¬ 
houses between Le Tour du Fin and Lcs 
Esclielles. 

t A tolerable inn, called VHotel du petit 
S. Julien, between S. Jean de Mauricnne 
and S. Michel. 


v«ti vi to VllO* 

|| A frontier Custom-house, belonging to 
Maria-Louisa. Between Castel S. Giovanni 
and Fiorenzuola Travellers ford that cele¬ 
brated torrent, theTrebia; which is some¬ 
times dangerous after heavy rains. 












































ITALY—ROUTES. 


397 


Ch. VI.] 


Days. 

Posts. 


26th 

5 

S. Ilario . 

II abler a ... 

27th 

4 

Cast el Franco* . 

Bologna.. 

28th 

5 

Lojano .. 

Coviel'wjo .. 

29th 

4 

Le Mnschere .......... 

Florence . 


The road over the Apennine, be¬ 
tween Bologna and Florence is so 
well constructed as to be almost 
constantly passable even during 
heavy falls of snow; but on de¬ 


Days. Posts. 


30ih 


Tavernelle . 


3 

Poggibonzi . 

31st 


Siena . 


4 

Buonconventof . 

32d 


Locanda della Scala ,... 


5* 

Torricelli .. 

Torricelli 

is 

situated about six 


miles beyond the mountain of Radi- 
cofani; and Travellers who arrive 
late in the day, during winter, on 
the summit of this mountain, should 
not attempt descending till the next 
morning; as the descent, from being 
rapid, and near the brink of pre- 


Davs. 

Post*. 

33d 

Bolsena . 


4£ Montefiascone 

34th 

Bonciglione .. 


4 Monterosi.... 

35th 

Start a . . 


3;j Roma. 

Tnns good, those marked with a 
Cross excepted. Road, in conse¬ 
quence of heavy rain, very indifferent 
between Lucy-le-Bois and Ernay, 
between La Roche Pot and Chalons, 
between Hu it Franche and Lyon, 
and between Tortona and Broni; 
but, in every other part, perfectly 
good. After heavy winter rain, how¬ 
ever, it is advisable to go from 
Turin to Milan, and thence to Bo¬ 
logna, instead of taking the shorter 
road through Alessandria. 

* A frontier Custom-house, belonging to 
the Pope. 

+ Oxen are requisite, during winter, to 
draw carriages up the hill near Buoncon- 
vento. 

J See, under Germany, the price of post 
horses in that country. 

9 Travellers who take the Klagenfurt- 
road *o from V or den on to S. Paternion; 
crossing, previous to their arrival at tire 


Inns. 

La Postal 
Only one Inn .+ 

Albergo di S. Marco. 

Aider go Imperiale. 

La Posta.+ 

La Posta. 

A single House. 

11 Pellicano. 

scending from Lojano to Florence, 
during frosty weather, it is some¬ 
times needful to chain two wheels 
at the same moment, and always 
necessary to double chain one wheel. 

Inns. 

Merely a resting place for horses. 

11 Lione rosso. 

L’Aquila nera. 

Albergo del Cavalletto.+ 

A single House.Ar 
Only one Inn.+ 

cipices, is dangerous without good 
driving light; though the road, over 
Radicofani, is at all seasons smooth 
and hard : but from the base of the 
mountain to Torricelli, and a short 
distance further, the road from being 
intersected by a torrent, is very 
rough, during winter. 

Inns. 

La Posta. 

La Post a.A- 
Albergo del Angelo.Ar 
La Posta. 


ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH 
BOLOGNA, VENICE, VIENNA, 
PRAGUE, AND DRESDEN, TO 
HAMBURGH J. 

23 Fusina — See “ Route from Milan 
through Bergamo, 4c., to Venice, 
Bologna, and Florence.” 

Venice, by water, 5 miles; and 
thence by water to Alestre, 5 
miles. 

1| Treviso —Principal inn, La Posta. 

1 Spresiuno 
1 Conegliano 
1J Sadie 
1 Pordenon§. 

latter place, the Tagliar.iento, and then 
proceeding to 

posts. 


Villacli 

. . l.i 

Vclden . 

. 1 

Klagenfurt 

, . 1 

S. Veit . 

• • 1 

Friesach . 

. . 1 

Neurnarck . 

. . 1 

Unsmarck . 

. . li 


Judenberg . . 






















398 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. VI 


If Codroipo 
If Udine 
If Nogaredo 
2 Goertz 
1 Cerjiicza 
1 Wippach 
1 P mould 

1 Adelsberg — See, under Germany, 
the route from Vienna to Trieste. 

1 Lasse 
1 Ober-Laybach 

[1 Lay bach See, under Germany, the 
route from Vieuna to Ttieste. 

If Potpetsch 
l .S'. Oswald 
l Franz 
If Cilli 
If Gannoivitz 
1 Freistritz 

1 Mahrburgh —See, under Germany, 
the route from Vienna to Trieste, 
if Ehrenhaussen 
1 _ Lebering 
1 Kahlsdorf 

1 Gratz—See, under Germany, the 
route from Vienna to Trieste. 

If Pegau 
1 Redelstein 
1 Brock on the Muhr 
1 Moerzhofen 
1 Krieglach 
If Moerzuschlag ~ 

1 Schott wein 
1 Neukirchen 

1 Neustudt 

2 Nendorf 
1 Vienna 

1 Enzersdorf 
1 Stoclcerau 
1 Malebern 
1 Holabrunn 
1 Jezelsdorf 
1 Znaim 
1 Freymersdorf 
1 Budwitz 
1 Schelletau 
1 Stannern 
1 Iglau 
1 Stecken 
1 Teutschbrodt 
1 Steinsdorf 
1 Benekau 
1 Czaslau 
1 Kolin 
1 Planian 
1 B'6hrn-brod 
1 Bichowitz 
1 Prague 
1 Sarzedokluk 
1 Schlan 
if [Judin 
1 Lobositz 
If Aussig 
1 Peterswald 
1 Zehist 
1 Dresden 

Judenberg .... If 
Knitte/Jield .... 1 
Graubath .... 1 


I t Meissen 
If Stnuchitz 
If Wermsdorff 

1 Wurtzen 

If Leipzig—See, under Germany the 
route from Hamburgh to Leip¬ 
zig. 

1 | Landsberg 

2 Cot hen 
li Kalbe 

1? Magdeburgh 
2 Burgstail 
2 Stendal 
If Osterburgh 

1 Arendsee 
If Lenzen 
2 f Lubten 

If Boitzenburg 

2 Escheburg 
If Hamburg. 


126 posts. 

ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH 
MANTUA, AND BY THE TYROL, TO 
AUGSBURGH AND WURTZBURGH. 

9 Bologna—See the last route. 

If Samoggia 
If Modena 
If Carpi 
1 Novi 

If S. Benedetto 

If Mantua—This city, which contains 
above24,000 inhabitants, is watered 
by tlie Mincio, anciently Mincius ; 
and, being surrounded with inun¬ 
dations occasioned by that river, 
is very unwholesome during sum¬ 
mer. The Cathedral here was 
built after the design of Giulio Ro¬ 
mano, who painted its ceiling and 
tribuna; and has likewise enriched 
Mantua with more of his works. 
Not far hence stands the Village of 
Pietole, also called Andes, the 
birth-place of Virgil. The prin¬ 
cipal inn at Mantua is La Posta. 

1 Roverbella 
if Villafranca 
If Verona 
If Volurni 
1 Peri 

1 Halla —Inn, La Corona. 

If Roveredo—This town was anciently 
called Roboretum: its principal 
inns are La Rosa and La Corona. 
1 Caliani 

If Trent—From Verona hither the road 
follows the course of the Adige. 
Trent, anciently called Trident wn, 
is placed in a delightful valley, at 
the base of the Alps, between Italy 
and Germany. Its Cathedral, a 
Gothic edifice, contains an ex¬ 
cellent Organ; and beyond the 

Leoben ..... 1 

Bruck.1 




Ch. VI ] ITALY—ROUTES. 399 


Gate qf S. Lorenzo is a fine 
Bridge thrown over the Adige. The 
principal inn here is L’Europa. 

1 La vis 
1^ Salorno 
1 Fgna 
1 Branzolo 

1 Botzen —The country from Botzen to 
Brixen is beautiful. 

1 Deutschen, 

1 Kollmun 
1 Brixen 
1 Ober-Mittewald 
1 Sterzingen 
1 Brenner 
1 Steinach 
1 Schonberg 

1 Inspruck—This city, the capital of the 
Tyrol, and supposed to contain 
10,000 inhabitants, is placed in a 
romantic valley watered by the 
river Inn, anciently called iEnus. 
The Mausoleum erected here, to 
record in bassirilievi the principal 
incidents of the life of Maximilian, 
merits notice. The Eagle, The 
golden Lion, and The Rose, are the 
best Hotels at Inspruck. 

1 Zirl —Few scenes can vie in sublimity 
w ith the passage of the Zirl. 

1 Barwies 
1 Nazareth 
1 Lermos 
1 Reiti 
1 Fussen 
1 Sorneister 
1 Schw'dbich Br'uck 
1 Hohcnivurt 
1 Hurlach 

lj Augsburg—Principal inns, The Three 
Moors, and The While Lamb. 
See, under Germany, the route 
from Frankfort to Augsburgh, 
lj Metlingen 
1 Donawert 
l l Nordlingen 
1^ Dunckelsphul 
1 Creilsheim 
lj Blau/elden 
1£ Mergentheim 
1 Bisvhojheim 

l£ Wurtzburg—Principal inn, The Hotel 
of Franconia. See,'under Ger¬ 
many, the route from Vienna to 

- Ostend. 

65f posts. 

The road through the Tyrol, from 
Trent to Inspruck, was once excel¬ 
lent; and is still good; though it 
has been, of late years, injured by 
the heavy cannon and artillery wag¬ 
gons which have passed over it. 
The views in this country are pic¬ 
turesque, beautiful, and sublime: 

* So little care is now taken of the 
Simplon-road, that I would advise Travel¬ 
lers neither to attempt leaving nor enter- 


and where the road quits the plains 
of Italy to ascend the Rhsetian Alps, 
are two gigantic and extraordinary 
rocks, which seem to have been se¬ 
vered by the hand of Nature for the 
purpose of affording a passage to 
the Adige; whose graceful sinuo¬ 
sities are a material embellishment 
to every scene in which they present 
themselves. 

ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, DURING 
SUMMER, FROM ROME, THROUGH 
FLORENCE AND MILAN, BY THE 
SIMPLON, TO GENEVA; AND OVER 
THE JURA ALPS TO POLIGNY, 
DIJON, MELUN, PARIS, AND BOU¬ 
LOGNE*. 

No British subject, who intends 
going by the above-named route to 
England, should leave Rome with¬ 
out being provided with a passport 
from the British Consul-General; 
which passport should be counter¬ 
signed first at the Police-Office, then 
by the Ambassador of Austria and 
Tuscany, and lastly by the French 
Ambassador. 

From Rome to Boulogne the 
time employed in travelling is about 
thirty-two days, during summer, with 
a light English post-chaise, not hea¬ 
vily laden, and drawn by three strong 
horses. 

First day . Posts 4j Buccano and 
Ronciglione. 

Second day . Posts Viterbo and 
San-Lorenzo nuovo. 

Third day . Posts Radicofani 
and San-Quirico. 

At Acquapendente, the next post to 
S. Lorenzo nuovo, Travellers are 
obliged to shew their passports, 
and to pay one paid per passport 
at the Police-Office there, as already 
mentioned. At the Custom-house 
on Radicofani Travellers usually 
pay from three to six pauls, ac¬ 
cording to the number of their 
trunks, for having them plumbed, 
and thus secured from examination 
in the Tuscan State. 

Fourth day . Posts Montaroni 
and Siena. 

If luggage be not plumbed it is ex¬ 
amined on going into Siena, by the 
Roman gate. 

ing Italy, by this route, sooner in spring 
than June, nor later in autumn than Oc¬ 
tober. 


APPENDIX. 


400 

Fifth day . Posts 5 Barbarino 
and Florence. 

On entering the latter city Travellers 
usually give a few pauls to the 
Custom-house Officers. The A quilu 
Neva is the inn usually resorted 
to by Vetturini. 

Sixth day . Posts Le Mas- 
chere and Pietramala. 

Seventh day . Posts Poggioliand 
Bologna. 

Eighth day . Posts 5 Modena and 

Marsaglia. 

Ninth day . Posts 4 Parma and 

San-Donino. 

Tenth day . Posts Piacenza 

and Casal-Pusterlengo. 

Beyond Piacenza, on the opposite 
side of the Po, is a Custom-house 
where trunks, and even the inside 
of carriages undergo a strict exa¬ 
mination ; but where nothing ap¬ 
pears to be considered as contra¬ 
band, except silks, and other 
wearing apparel not made up. It 
is advisable to have luggage 
plumbed here. 

Eleventh day . Posts Mclegnano 
and Milan. 

Twelfth day . Posts 4f Cuscina and 
Sesto-Calende. 

Thirteenth day . Posts 7 Fariolo and 
Vogogna. 

Travellers, (if the weather be favour¬ 
able, usually send their carriages 
empty from Sesto to Fariolo ; hir¬ 
ing, for themselves, at Sesto, a 
boat, which costs a Napoleon, 
buona-niano to the Boatmen in¬ 
clusive; and which proceeds first 
to Arona, next to the Borromean 
Islands, and then to Fariolo. 

Fourteenth day . Posts 6£ Homo d’Os- 
sola and Simplon. 

Fifteenth day . Posts C Brigg. 

Sixteenth day . Posts 8£ Tourtemag - 

ne and Sion 

Seventeenth day Posts 6| Martigny 
and S. Maurice 

Eighteenth day . Posts S. Gingoux 
and Thonon. 

Nineteenth (lay . Posts 4j Geneva 

Twentieth day . Posts 7^ Gexaud Mo- 
rez 

Travellers are obliged to have their 
passports signed at Gex: and at 
the French Custom-house between 
Gex and Morez trunks are com¬ 
pletely unpacked and rigorously 
examined ; as likewise are the in¬ 
sides of carriages: nothing, how¬ 
ever, seems to be considered as 
contraband by the searchers here, 
except wearing apparel, not made 
up, ltomau pearls, and Geneva 
watches and trinkets for sale. At 
Morez trunks, 4'C*, ate again ex¬ 
amined. 

Twenty-first day . Posts 7 Champagnole 
and Poligny. 

On arriving at Poligny Travellers 


[Oh. VI. 

are obliged to deliver up their 
passports at the Sous-Pretecture ; 
whence they are forwarded to 
Paris; while new passports, (the 
expense of which is fifty sous 
each,) are substituted for iiiose 
left at the Sous-Prefecture. 

Twenty-second day Posts Mont - sous 
Vaudrey and Auxonne. 

Twenty-third day Posts 6J Dijon and 
Pont-de-Pany. 

Twenty-fourth day Posts Vitteauxand 
Rout ray. 

Twenty-fifth day Posts 8j Lucy-le-Bois 
and Auxerre. 

Twenty-sixth day Posts 7£ Juigny and 
Sens. 

Twenty-seventh day Posts 8 Montereau 
and Melun. Inn at the former 
town, The Lion d’Or, and bad ; 
at the latter. The Hotel de 
France, and very comfortable. 
Montereau is a large town, wa¬ 
tered by the Yonne and Seine; 
but much injured in its appear¬ 
ance, by the bridges thrown over 
these rivers having been nearly 
destroyed by the merciless hand 
of war. The hill above Montereau 
commands a fine view of the 
Tonne and Seine. 

Twenty-eighth day Posts Charenton 
and Paris. 

The road from Fossard,through Mc- 
lun, to Paris, contains less! pave¬ 
ment than does that through Fon- 
tainbleau; but is more hilly, and 
not so pleasant. The mode of pro¬ 
ceeding, with respect to passports 
at Paris, has been already men¬ 
tioned. 

Twenty-ninth day Posts 8J Beaumont 
and Beauvais. 

Thirtieth day - . 7| Granvilliers 

and Airaines. 

Thirty-first day . Posts 7\-Nouvion and 
Montreuil. 

Thirty-second day Posts 4j Boulogne. 

This is a handsome town ; in the 
vicinity of which there are several 
■villas, chiefly tenanted by English 
families: and here, likewise, is a 
Protestant School for young La¬ 
dies, kept by Mrs. and Miss 
Dowling. 

It has been already mentioned, that 
the passage front Boulogne to 
Dover is, generally speaking, ac¬ 
complished in less time than from 
Calais to Dover: and Travel¬ 
lers who go to the Hotel de Lon- 
dres, at Boulogne, and embark 
from that inn, are charged as fol¬ 
lows :— 

Breakfast, per head, francs two— 
dinner, francs four—beds, for one 
Master, and one Servant, francs 
four—dismounting and embarking 
a four-wheeled carriage, francs 
sixteen —clearance of ditto, and 
luggage, francs twelve — permit, 


401 


ITALY—ROUTES, 8fc. 


Ch. VI.] 

francs two—passport, francs two 
— porters, from three to six francs, 
according to the quantity of lug¬ 
gage — Commissary (who exone¬ 
rates Travellers both from trouble 
and expense at the Custom-house,) 
francs ten *. 

The Commissary belonging to the 
Lo>idon Hotel at Dover changes 
ten and sixpence for getting an 
English carriage, with the luggage 
belonging to it, out of the packet, 
and then clearing them at the Cus¬ 
tom-house: but, British Travellers, 
who design landing at Dover, 
should be careful not to bring with 
them a single article which pays 
duty, if they would wish to avoid 
detention, fatigue, and needless ex¬ 
pense. 

I travelled from Rome to Bou¬ 
logne in my own landaulet, drawn 
by three horses belonging to the 
Roman Padrone di Vettare, Balzani; 
and I paid for myself, another Lady, 
and two Servants, an hundred Louis- 
d’ors, buona-mano inclusive; toge¬ 


ther with one Louis and a half 
per day whenever I chose to rest. 
Balzani engaged to defray the ex¬ 
pense of barriers and toll-bridges; 
to furnish extra horses whenever 
needful; to provide us with two 
meals a day, a sitting-room, and 
four good beds every night during 
the journey; and likewise during 
days of rest; and also to have taken 
us on to Calais, had we desired it; 
which engagement was so punctually 
fulfilled by his Postillion, who drove 
me, that I gave him three Napo¬ 
leons as a present-!*. 

From Rome I took with me as 
many Louis-d’ors as served to pay 
Balzani; and, as many Napoleons 
as I was likely to want for other 
expenses; and this proved an eco¬ 
nomical measure; because there is 
no agio upon gold at Rome. 


ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM FLORENCE TO VENICE, MILAN, TURIN, AND 
OVER MONT-CENIS TO PONT-DE-BEAUVOISIN, DURING THE SUMMER OF 
1822, WITH AN ENGLISH LANDAULET DRAWN BY THREE HORSES. 

Hours. Pays. Inns. 


Le Maschere .. 3^ .... A single house. 

Pietramala . 4.f .... 1st A single house. 

Pogiole .... .... (Not far beyond Pietramala is the Barrier 

where luggage may be plumbed for 
Venice.) 

II Te . 2§ .... A single house. 

Ferrara ..... 2£ .... 3d I tre Mori. 

For signing every passport at Ferrara the 
charge is five pauls. 

Bovigo .................. 7 La Posta. 

Monselice ... 3J .... 4th La Posta. 

JDolo .... 5 .... La Campana. 

Mestr'e . 4£ .... 5th La Campana. 

Venice . 2£ .... 6th Gran-Bretagna. 

Padua. of .... Stella d'ora. 

Vicenza . 4£ .... 7th I due Rode. 

Villa Nuova .. 4 .... A single house +. 

Verona . 3j .... 8th / due Torri. 

Peschiera... .. 3 .... Inn bad. 

Ponte S. Marco . 3j .... 9th La Posta, and extravagantly dear. 

Brescia . 2 .... I due Torri. 

Antignate . 4£ .... 10th IlPozzo. 

Gorgonzola .. 4f .... AlbergograndealPontc+,extravagantly 

dear. 

Gorgonzola is famous for cheese called 
Stracchini. 


* The charge at Boulogne, for embarking a carriage, depends upon whether it be dis¬ 
mounted or not; and as this hazardous opexation is seldom, if ever, necessary when car¬ 
riages are conveyed from France to England, or vice versd, by Steam Packets, these 
vessels, which may now be found in almost every Port, are the conveyance usually pre¬ 
ferred for carriages. 

t Balzani also paid the tax now levied in France upon foreign Voiturins. 

2 D 






















402 APPENDIX. [Ch. VI. 

Hour*. Days. Intis. 

Milan .. 2 .... nth Gran-Bret a grid. 

Magenta . 3£ .... Albergo grande. 

Novara . 3J .... 12th I tre Re. 

Vercelli . 3^ .... 1 tre Re. 

Cigliano . 5 .... 13th La Corona grossa. 

Chivasso....... . 2£ .... I due Buovi rossi. 

Torino... 3$ .... 14th La buona Donna. 

S. Ambrogio .... 4 .... La Vigna. 

Susa ... 5J .... 15th La Posta*. 

Lans-le-bourg .. 8 .... Hotel d’Angleterre.' 

Alodane . 2i .... 16th Hotel eles Voyageurs. 

S. Jean de Maurienne .... 3§ .... La Poste. 

Aiguebelle .. G .... 17th Hotel de VUnion. 

Chavanne ,. 4 .... A single house+. 

Chambery... 2 .... 18 th La Poste. 

Eschelles . 4j .... La Poste. 

Pont-de-Beauvoisin ...... 2£ .... 19th Le tre Corone. 


The Inus marked thus +, are unfit for sleeping places. 


CHAPTER VII. 


AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 


VENICE, MILAN, VIENNA, 8fC. 

Passports—Money of the Imperial Territories—Bankers’ accounts—Vienna bank-bills— 
Price of Post-horses, $c., in the Austrian-German Dominions—Most profitable money 
Travellers can take from Tuscany to Germany—Persons going from Tuscany to Venice 
should have their baggage plumbed at Florence—Fees to Custom-house Officers at Bo¬ 
logna and Venice—Price of Apartments at Hotels in Venice—of dinner—of a Gondola 
—Wages of a Valet-de-Place—Articles best worth purchasing—Arrival and Depar¬ 
ture of Letter-Couriers—Milan—Lodging-houses—Hotels—Job carriages—Hackney 
coaches—Valets-de-Place—Boxes at La Scaia—Arrival and departure of Letter- 
Couriers—Vienna—Pound weight—Braccio—Charges at Hotels—Price of dinner at a 
table d’Hote—of dinner at a Restaurateur’s—Wages of a Valet-de-Place—Price per 
night of one bed-room at an inn— Hackney coaches—Sedan chairs—Medical Men— 
Shops—Articles best worth purchasing, and their prices—Expense of going into the 
Parterre at the Opera-house—Usual price of a box—Travellers advised to go post from 
Vienna to Dresden—Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers—Diligence—Prague— 
Articles best worth purchasing—Wages of a Valet de-Place—Price of a Job carriage— 
Hackney coaches. 


No Foreigner is allowed to enter the 
dominions of the Emperor of Austria, 
without exhibiting a passport, signed 
by an Austrian Ambassador. 

MONEY OF THE IMPERIAL 
TERRITORIES. 

Souveraiil, florins 6f. 

Ducat, florins 4§. 

Crown, or piece of two florins and 
sixteen kreutzers. 

Piece of kreutzers 34. 

Ditto ofkrilutzers 18. 

Ditto of kreutzers 17. 


Piece of one paul, or kreutzers 12. 

Ditto of kreutzers 10. 

Piece of kreutzers 5. 

Ditto of groschen 1, or kreutzers 3 

Ditto of kreutzers 1. 

An imperial sequin, and a ducat, 
generally are synonymous: some¬ 
times, however, an imperial sequin 
is only four florins and thirty 
kreutzers: other sequins are four 
florins and twenty-eight kreutzers. 
The convention-dollar passes for two 
florins throughout Germany. Sixty 
kreutzers make one florin. 


* Post-horses were put to my landaulet from Susa to the Italian Barrier. 



















Ch. VIT .3 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS—VENICE. 


Bankers’accounts are kept in flo¬ 
rins. It is generally difficult in 
Germany, to procure much gold or 
silver, without paying an agio for it; 
but the Vienna bank-bills, many of 
which are only five florins each, pass 
current every where throughout the 
imperial Territories, and are always 
readily changed into silver. 

PRICE OF POST-IIORSES IN THE 

AUSTRIAN-GERMAN DOMINIONS. 

The price of draught-horses 
throughout the Austrian Dominions, 
and other parts of Germany, is fixed 
in the different monies of the re¬ 
spective countries. 

A German post is, generally speak¬ 
ing, about two German miles; and 
one German mile is about four Eng¬ 
lish miles and a half. 

In Austria and Bohemia (accord¬ 
ing to the tariff) draught horses are 
charged at thirty-fire kreutzers each, 
per mile*: and the legal claim of 
Postillions is as follows : 

SINGLE POST. POST AND A DOUBLE 
HALF'. POST. 

No. of Flo- Kreut. Flo- Krfiut- Flo-Krfeut- 
horses. rins. zers. rins. zers. rins. zers. 

i»i0 dO«..iO 45....1 0 

3_0 45....1 0....1 30 

4....1 0....1 30....2 0 

C....1 30....2 15....3 0 

A German Postillion, like those of 
France and Italy, expects more than 
his legal claim; and seems to think 
he has a right to as much per post 
for himself, as Post-masters charge 
per horse : indeed, if he drive three 
horses, he expects to . receive, per 
post, one third more than the price 
for each horse. 

The expense of greasing wheels, 
if grease be found by the Traveller, 
is-from ten to seventeen kreutzers; 
and Travellers are obliged to pay for 
greasing their wheels at every third 
post. 

A carriage conveying but two per¬ 
sons, and but one trunk, is allowed 
to travel with two horses only; and 
carriages with four inside places, and 


403 

two trunks, are seldom compelled to 
travel with more than four horses. 

In the Empire, the price of every 
draught-horse is from one florin and 
fifteen kreutzers, to one florin and 
thirty kreutzers a post; and the price 
forgreasingwheelsistwelvekreutzers. 

A Caleche de Poste, furnished by a 
Post-master, costs, in the Empire, 
twenty kreutzers per station. 

Persons who intend travelling from 
Rome through Florence, to Venice, 
and thence to Vienna, or any other 
part of Germany under Austrian go¬ 
vernment, should provide themselves, 
at Rome, with as many Napoleons 
as they may be likely to want between 
that city and the confines of Germany : 
and they should also endeavour to 
purchase, of the money-changers at 
Florence, souverains and imperial 
sequins sufficient for the imperial 
Dominions in Germany. 

From the commencement of Saxony 
to the town of Hamburgh, Napo¬ 
leons are the most profitable money 
for Travellers. 

Persons going from Tuscany to 
Venice, should have their baggage 
plumbed at Florence; which opera¬ 
tion usually costs about five pauls. 

At the gate of Bologna the Cus¬ 
tom-house Officers expect a present 
of five pauls per carriage; and at Fer¬ 
rara, on quitting the town, Travel¬ 
lers are expected to make the same 
present. 

VENICE. 

Good apartments, containing from 
six to eight beds, cannot usually be 
procured, either at The Gran-Bre- 
tagna, or The Europa, for less than 
a Napoleon per night. Breakfast, 
for masters, costs two francs a head 
— dinner, five francs — and the 
charge, per head, for servants, by 
the day, is six francs. 

A gondola, with only one gondo- 
liere, costs four francs per day ; and 
contains, in its cabin, four persons; 
who may secure themselves from 
rain; these boats being conveni- 


* Travellers arc sometimes compelled to pay more. 

2 d 2 


404 

ently fitted up with glasses and Ve- 
netian-blinds : they are likewise fur¬ 
nished with handsome lanterns at 
night. 

The wages of a Valet-de-place is 
from four to five francs a day. 

The articles best worth purchasing 
at Venice are, gold chains, seals, Sfc., 
sold by weight, accordingto the price 
of gold—necklaces, and other per¬ 
sonal ornaments, made with very 
small beads of various colours—• 
■—wax candles—Mocha coffee—cho¬ 
colate-books, and maps. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER COURIERS. 

Sunday, at eight in the morning, 
arrives the Courier from Padua— at 
ten arrive letters from V ienna,Trieste, 
Sfc. ; Milan, Verona, Mantua, Bres¬ 
cia, Piedmont, Genoa, Switzerland, 
France, Spain, Great Britain, and 
the kingdom of the Netherlands. 

Monday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from Padua, Vicenza, 
Sfc.—at ten from Vienna—and at 
four in the afternoon from Milan, 
Brescia, Verona, France, Switzer¬ 
land, Spain, Great Britain, the king¬ 
dom of the Netherlands, the Tyrol, 
Germany, Ferrara, the Ecclesiasti¬ 
cal State, the kingdom of Naples, 
and the Dutchy of Modena. 

Tuesday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from Padua, Vicenza, 
Sfc., and at ten from Vienna, Milan, 
Mantua, Sfc., and Tuscany. 

Wednesday, at eight in the morn¬ 
ing, arrive letters from Padua—and 
at ten from Vienna, Trieste, Milan, 
Verona, S(c., Genoa, and Piedmont. 

Thursday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from Padua, and Ro- 
vigo— at ten from Vienna, Milan, 
Verona, $’c.; France, Switzerland, 
Spain, Great Britain, and the king¬ 
dom of the Netherlands—and at 
four in the afternoon from Ferrara, 
the Ecclesiastical State, Naples, 
and Modena. 

Friday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from Padua—and at 
ten from Vienna, Trieste, Sfc.; Mi- 


[Cli. VII. 

Ian, Mantua, 8fc .; Tuscany, the Ty¬ 
rol, and Germany. 

Saturday, at eight in the morning, 
arrive letters from Padua—and at 
ten from Vienna, and Milan. 

Sunday, at three in the afternoon , 
go letters for Vienna, Mestre, Tre¬ 
viso, $’e.; Trieste, Milan, Verona, 
Vicenza, Sfc. —and at five in the af¬ 
ternoon for Padua. 

Monday, at three in the afternoon, 
go letters for Milan, Padua, Vicenza 
Verona, Sfc .—and at six in the after¬ 
noon for Vienna, and the interme¬ 
diate cities. 

Tuesday, at noon, go letters for 
Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State, 
Naples, and Modena— at three in 
the afternoon for Vienna,, and Mi¬ 
lan—and at six in the afternoon for 
Padua. 

tVednesday, at six in the afternoon, 
go letters for Milan, Verona, Man¬ 
tua, Parma, Piacenza, Tuscany, 
Brescia, Bergamo, Piedmont, Ge¬ 
noa, Switzerland, France, Spain, 
Portugal. Great Britain, the kingdom 
of the Netherlands, the Tyrol, Ham¬ 
burgh and Germany, Vienna, Mes¬ 
tre, Treviso, Sfc.-, Trieste, and 
Padua. 

Thursday, at three in the after¬ 
noon, go letters for Vienna, Milan, 
Sfc. —and at six in the afternoon for 
Padua. 

Friday, at noon, go letters for 
Padua, Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical 
State, Naples, and Modena-— at 
three in the afternoon for Milan, Vi¬ 
cenza, Verona, Sfc .—and at six in 
the evening for Vienna, Mestre, Tre¬ 
viso, Sfc., and Trieste. 

Saturday, at half-past eight in the 
evening, go letters for the Ecclesias¬ 
tical State, Naples, Milan, Verona, 
Mantua, Parma, Piacenza, Tuscany, 
Brescia, Bergamo, Piedmont, Ge¬ 
noa, Switzerland, France, Spain, 
Portugal, Great Britain, the king¬ 
dom of the Netherlands, the Tyrol, 
Hamburgh, and Germany; Padua, 
Treviso, Vienna, and Trieste. 

d he Post-office is always open 
from eight in the morning till five in 


APPENDIX. 



405 


Ch. VII.] AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS—MILAN—VIENNA. 


the afternoon; and, on some days 
of the week, till a later hour. 

MILAN. 

Lodging-houses in this city are 
numerous, and not very high priced. 
Hotels are expensive. A job car¬ 
riage usually costs from fifteen to 
sixteen francs per day; and the price 
of Hackney-coaches is the same as 
at Paris. A Valet-de-Place, if hired 
for a very short time, and expected 
to act as a Cicerone, commonly de¬ 
mands five francs per day: and the 
expense of a good box, large enough 
to accommodate four persons, at La 
Scala, on Sundays, seldom amounts 
to less than from twenty-five to thirty 
francs, entrance-money inclusive; 
which is one franc and a half per 
head; but, on other days, a box 
may frequently be hired for ten 
francs. The price per head for ad¬ 
mittance to the Parterre is one franc 
and a half. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER-COURIERS. 

Sunday, arrive letters from Swit¬ 
zerland. 

Monday, from Genoa, Great Bri¬ 
tain, France, Spain, Portugal, Tu¬ 
rin, Venice, Germany, and other 
parts of northern Europe. 

Tuesday, from Naples, Rome, 
Tuscany, Switzerland, Sfc. 

Wednesday, from Genoa, Great 
Britain, Sfc., as on Monday. 

Friday, from Genoa, Great Bri¬ 
tain, Sfc., as on Monday— and from 
Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Venice, 
Germany, other parts of northern 
Europe, and Switzerland. 

Saturday, from Switzerland, and 
the kingdom of the Netherlands. 

Sunday, at eleven in the morning, 
go letters for Switzerland, and the 
kingdom of the Netherlands. 

Monday, at six in the afternoon, 
for Venice, ^c.— at nine in the even¬ 
ing for Genoa, Spain, Sfc. —and at 

* Travellers should endeavour to procure 
old Austrian wine, which is more whole¬ 
some than are the common wines of Hun¬ 
gary. The Germans, if report speak true. 


ten for Turin, France, Great Britain, 
Sfc. 

Tuesday, at eleven in the morning, 
for Switzerland. 

Wednesday, at one in the after - 
noon, for Switzerland, and the king¬ 
dom of the Netherlands— at six in 
the afternoon for Venice, Germany, 
and other parts of northern Europe 
—at nine in the evening for Florence, 
Rome, Naples, Genoa, Sfc. —and at 
ten for Turin, France, Great Bri¬ 
tain, Sfc., as on Monday. 

Thursday, for Switzerland. 

Saturday, at nine in the evening, 
for Genoa, Sfc., as on Monday—and 
at ten for Venice, Germany, and 
other parts of northern Europe; Flo¬ 
rence, Rome, Naples, Turin, France, 
Great Britain, (Sfc., as on Wednesday 

The Post-Office is opened, at nine 
in the morning, every Monday 
Tuesday, and Wednesday—at eleven 
every Thursday—and at nine, every 
Friday, Saturday, and Sunday: and 
it is shut, at six in the evening, every 
Monday—at nine, every Tuesday—■ 
at ten, every Wednesday and Satur 
day—at three, every Thursday and 
Sunday—and at nine, every Friday. 

VIENNA. 

The pound-weight at Vienna is 
eighteen ounces; and the common 
measure, called a braccio, is some¬ 
what longer than that of Florence. 

At one of the best Hotels in Vi¬ 
enna, I paid for six rooms, and din¬ 
ner for three persons, linen, bread, 
beer, and table wine* inclusive, 
eighteen florins per day. 

The price of dinner at a Table 
d’Hote, varies from thirty-four kreut- 
zers to a crown per head; and the 
price of dinner at a Restaurateur's, 
varies from five kreutzers to one flo¬ 
rin per head. 

A Valet-de-Place usually expects 
from thirty-four. kriiutzers to one 
florin ^er day. 

It is seldom possible at Vienna, to 

frequently put a poisonous metallic sub¬ 
stance into their white wines, particularly 
those of the Rhine. 


406 

procure a bed-room at any inn for 
less than one florin per night. There 
are in this city, excellent Hackney 
coaches to be hired by the hour; 
and good sedan chairs, into which 
the sick cannot be admitted. There 
likewise are several good physicians 
and surgeons. 

The shopsat Vienna are richly fur¬ 
nished; and the articles best worth 
purchasing seem to be, eyder-down, 
black lace, furs, household linen, 
Bohemian kerseymere, and broad 
cloth. Eyder-down is usually sold 
at nine florins the pound. Broad 
black lace costs from three to five 
pauls the braccio; kerseymere, if 
dyed in grain, three florins and three 
quarters the braccio; if not so dyed, 
three florins and one quarter only. 

The usual price in the parterre at 
the opera-house is one florin; but, 
upon extraordinary occasions, two; 
the usual price of a box one ducat; 
but, upon extraordinary occasions, 
two. 

It is not pleasant to travel en voi- 
tm'ier from Vienna to Dresden ; be¬ 
cause the Post-masters between the 
above-named cities are so spiteful to 
Voituriers that the latter can neither 
procure extra horses, nor other ne¬ 
cessary accommodations on the 
road. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER COURIERS. 

Monday morning arrives the post 


[Oh. VII. 

from Italy, Spain, France, and Great 
Britain. 

Tuesday morning from Saxony, 
and the northern countries. 

Thursday morning from Italy. 

Saturday morning from Saxony. 

Monday afternoon at three o'clock , 
goes the post to Italy. 

Wednesday evening to Saxony, 
and the northern countries; Spain, 
France, and Great Britain. 

Thursday evening to Italy. 

Saturday evening to Spain, Franee, 
and Great Britain. 

The posts of the Imperial German 
Dominions arrive and depart daily. 

A Diligence sets out for Pres- 
burgh at eight o’clock every morn¬ 
ing ; another, for Italy, at half-past 
seven every Monday morning; and 
another for Prague and Dresden, at 
nine o’clock every Tuesday morning. 
One place in a German Diligence 
usually costs about thirty kreutzers 
per German mile. 

PRAGUE. 

The articles best worth purchasing 
here are, Silesia lawns, table-linen, 
Bohemian lustres, and other kinds of 
glass. 

The wages usually demanded by a 
Valet-de-place is thirty-four kreutzers 
a day; and the price of a job-carriage 
two florins and thirty kreutzers a 
day. 

There are good Hackney coaches 
in this city. 


APPENDIX. 



40 ? 


CHAPTER VIII. 


DRESDEN, HAMBURGH, BERLIN, Sfc. 

Money of Saxony—Price of Post-horses—Dresden—Pound-weight—Common measure— 
Price of apartments in the principal Hotels—Price of dinner at Hotels, and at the 
houses of Restaurateurs—Wages of a Valet-de-Place—Price of job carriages, Sedan 
chairs, wine, and bottled beer—Articles best worth purchasing—Arrival and departure 
of Letter-Couriers—Expense of franking letters for England—Diligence—Hamburgh 
—Money, Bankers’ accounts, 4'C-—Pound-weight—Price per head for dinner at a 
table d’Hote—Price of Claret—Cambrick the article best worth purchasing—Price 
of Post-horses, 4c*> in the Dominions of Prussia, Hesse, Brunswick, and Hano¬ 
ver—Roads in northern Germany—Wienerwagens—Marktschiffs—Private vessels— 
Voyage from Frankfort on the Mein to Cologne—Ditto from Ratisbon to Vienna—■ 
Route from Hamburgh to Berlin—Population of that city, and objects best worth 
notice—Theatres, clubs, 4c*—Promenades—Hotels and Lodging-houses—Wages of a 
Valet-de-place—Job carriages—Hackney coaches—Price of dinner at a Restaurateur’s—• 
Environs—Route from Hamburgh to Leipsic—Population of Leipsic — Objects best 
worth notice—Promenades—Prices at the German Theatre—Best Inns—Fairs—Prices 
at Inns—Wages of a Valet-de-place—Job carriages, and Hacks—Route from Leipsic 
to Dresden—from Leipsic through Gotha to Frankfort on the Mein—from Leipsic to 
Brunswick—from Brunswick to Hanover—from Hanover to Gottingen—from Leipsic 
to Danzick—from Frankfort on the Mein to Augsburgh—from Augsburgh to Constance, 
Schaftausen, and Basle—from Augsburgh to Ratisbon—from Ratisbon to Munich—from 
Ratisbon to Prague—and from Vienna through Ratisbon and Brussels to Ostend— 
Packets from Colchester to Ostend; from Ostend to Harwich; and from Ostend to 
Margate—Route from Frankfort on the Mein through Casscl to Munster—Voyage on 
the Rhine from Mayence to Coblentz—Excursion from Gottingen to Harz—German 
Baths—Carlsbad—Expenses there—Pyrmont—Expenses there—Spa—Expenses there 
Route from Vienna to Carlsbad, through Eger and Zwoda—from Hanover to Pyr¬ 
mont—from Hamburgh to Pyrmont—from Brussels through Aix-la-Chapelle and Liege, 
to Spa—from Vienna to Baaden—from Vienna to Presburgh—fromTeusch Altenburgto 
Belgrade—from Presburgh to Kascliau and Tokay—and from Vienna to Trieste. 


4i 

2 

10 

8 

4 


MONEY OF SAXONY. 

Ducat ..worth florins 

Crown, or convention dollar... .florins 

Florin.,.... .groschen 

Half-florin.groschen 

Quarter-florin ..groschen 

Piece of groschen two, marked.“ 12” 

that number of these pieces making 
one dollar*. 

Piece of groschen one, marked.“ 24” 

that number of these pieces making 
one dollar. 

Piece of half a grosch, marked. “ 48” 

that number of these pieces making 
one dollar. 

Piece of three pfennings. 

Piece of one pfenning. 

Bankers’ accounts are kept in 
dollars and groschen; the former 
being an imaginary coin, worth one 
florin and a half. 

Spanish dollars do not pass here. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES, SfC., IN 
SAXONY. 

For every draught-horse the charge 


is ten groschen per mile ; and every 
postillion, driving three or four 
horses, has a right to eight groschen. 
Couriers, whether travelling in a car¬ 
riage or on horseback, pay twelve 
groschen a mile. Two persons, if 
travelling in their own carriage, are 
obliged to take three horses; but, if 
travelling in a Post-master’s carriage, 
not more than two horses. The 
charge for a Post-master’s carriage 
is four groschen per mile; and the 
charge for greasing wheels from 
three to four groschen. 

DRESDEN. 

The pound-weight of Dresden is 
sixteen ounces; the aune, or com¬ 
mon measure, two feet; and the foot 
twelve inches. 

The best apartments in the prin¬ 
cipal Hotels usually let for one du- 


♦ These are net convention dollars, but those in which Bankers’ accounts are kept. 









408 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. VIII. 


cat per day; and dinner, in these 
hotels, is commonly charged at one 
florin per head ; though Travellers 
may be tolerably well served at 
twelve groschen. Restaurateurs give 
good dinners at eight groschen per 
head. 

The wages of a Valet-de-place is 
one florin per day. 

A job carriage, for the whole day, 
costs about three florins,* for the 
half day, two florins and four gro¬ 
schen. 

The price of a Sedan chair, in 
the old Town, is two groschen for 
going to any part of it; and two for 
returning: in the new Town exactly 
double; and the chairmen charge 
one gro3ch for every quarter of an 
hour, when they are kept waiting. 

Wine of the country is usually 
charged at ten groschen per bottle ; 
and bottled beer at two groschen and 
six pfennings. 

The articles best worth purchasing 
in this city are black and white lace, 
which may be bought of the Lace- 
makers. 

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET¬ 
TER COURIERS. 

Sunday afternoon arrive letters 
from Vienna, Prague, <$*c.; and like¬ 
wise from Great Britain, France, 
Holland, Hamburgh, Amsterdam, 
Belgium, Hanover, Brunswick, Sfc. 

Tuesday morming from Italy, the 
Tyrol, Switzerland, Sfc. 

Wednesday afternoon from Vien¬ 
na, Prague, Sfc. 

Thursday afternoon from Holland, 
Belgium, Hamburgh, Sfc. 

Sunday morning, at eight o’clock, 
the post goes to Hamburgh, with let¬ 
ters for Great Britain, Sfc, 

Monday afternoon, at three o’clock, 
to Holland, and Belgium; and at six 
to Prague, Vienna, Sfc.; Venice, 
Italy in general, and Switzerland. 

Wednesday, at noon, to Holland, 
France, Denmark, Sfc. 

Friday, at one in the afternoon, to 
Prague, Vienna, Sfc. 

Letters must be sent to the post 


one hour, and parcels two hours, 
before the Courier sets out. Letters 
for Great Britain pay eight groschen 
each. ; 

Wednesday morning, at eight 
o’clock, the Diligence sets out for 
Prague and Vienna; and Thurs¬ 
day morning, at the same hour, for 
Hamburgh. 

HAMBURGH. 

Accounts are kept in marks and 
skillings; a mark being from sixteen 
to eighteen-pence, English, accord¬ 
ing to the exchange; and a skilling 
the sixteenth of a mark. Convention- 
dollars do not pass for quite two 
florins at Hamburgh; no money 
being current but that of Hamburgh 
and Denmark. 

The pound-weight is sixteen 
ounces. 

Several of the Inns contain a Table 
d’ Hote, at which the price, per head, 
for dinner, is from twelve skillings to 
two marks. 

Claret is good and cheap; being 
usually sold at two marks a bottle. 

Almost every article of commerce 
may be purchased at Hamburgh; 
but, though exempt from Port- 
duties, things in general are dear, 
cambrick excepted. 

PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS. 

Persons who travel post usually 
pay ten groschen per German mile 
for every draught-horse; and at 
Berlin one mile more than the actual 
distance is charged, it being a post 
royal. The Wagenmeister, or Su¬ 
perintendent of post-carriages, has a 
right to four groschen at every post; 
and Postillions are entitled to three 
groschen per mile. The price for 
greasing wheels is four groschen in 
Capital Cities, and other large 
towns; but, in Villages, only two 
groschen. 

A light carriage, containing only 
two places, is allowed to travel with 
only two horses, provided it convey 
but one person and one trunk : if it 
convey two persons, they must take 


Ch. VIII.] GERMANY-BRUNSWICK—HANOVER. 


three horses; and carriages con¬ 
veying three or four persons must 
have four horses. Every Berlin, or 
carriage with four inside-places, 
must have four horses; and, if it 
contain four persons, five horses; 
but, if it contain from five to seven 
persons, six horses are indispensable: 
and if, moreover, it be heavily 
charged with baggage, Post-masters 
are authorized to put on eight 
horses. 

The price of a Caleche de Poste, 
furnished by a Post-master, is six 
groschen per station. 

Postillions are obliged to drive one 
German mile an hour on well-paved 
roads; one mile in an hour and a 
quarter on good roads not paved; 
and one mile within an hour and a 
half where the road is sandy. 

On quitting Berlin every Traveller 
should have a Passport from Go¬ 
vernment; which the tVagenmeister 
commonly procures. Travellers 
should likewise have their trunks 
plumbed. 

HESSE. 

Persons who travel post pay ten 
groschen per German mile for every 
draught-horse; and for Couriers’ 
horses twelve groschen. If the post 
be from two miles and a half to three 
miles in distance, the postillion is 
entitled to eight groschen, provided 
he drive three or four horses; and 
he is entitled to ten groschen, pro¬ 
vided there be six horses. If the 
length of the post be from one mile 
and a half to two miles only, and the 
Postillion drive three or four horses, 
he is entitled to six groschen ; and 
provided there be six horses, he is 
entitled to eight groschen. 

The legal claim of the JVagen- 
meister at each station is two gros¬ 
chen ; and the charge for greasing 
wheels from three to four gros¬ 
chen. 

BRUNSWICK. 

Persons who travel post pay twelve 


409 

groschen per German mile for every 
draught-horse. 

A Berlin conveying six persons, 
servants inclusive, together with 
trunks not exceeding three quintals 
in weight, is allowed to travel with 
only four horses. A post-chaise 
conveying four persons, servants in¬ 
clusive, is allowed to travel with 
only three horses; and if it convey 
but three persons, it is allowed to 
travel with only two horses. 

HANOVER. 

Persons who travel post pay 
twelve groschen per German mile 
for every draught-horse. 

A postillion who drives two or 
three horses is entitled to six gros¬ 
chen ; if he drive four horses, his 
claim is eight groschen ; and he is 
entitled to sixteen groschen provided 
there be six horses: but, if a post 
be uncommonly long, namely, from 
four to five miles in distance, he is 
entitled to seven groschen, provided 
he drive two or three horses; nine, 
if he drive four horses; and eigh¬ 
teen, if there be six horses. 

The Wagenmeister’s claim is from 
three to six groschen per post; and 
the expense of greasing wheels, from 
three to four groschen. 

In Hanover, the old Louis passes 
for only four crowns and sixteen 
groschen in paying either the post, 
or the tolls; but is current for five 
crowns in paying for grease, Trink- 
geld (drink-money), and expenses at 
inns. 

The roads in the north of Ger¬ 
many are, generally speaking, bad ; 
and the melange of territories is an 
obstacle to their improvement: 
moreover, the distances from place 
to place are not determined with 
precision: and therefore Post-mas¬ 
ters sometimes exact. 

There is a kind of carriage, half 
open, and containing four persons, 
to which, if it be not encumbered 
with much baggage, Post-masters 
have no right to put more than two 


410 


APPENDIX. 


horses, except in the Hanoverian 
territories. This carriage is called 
a Wienerwagen. 

The noble rivers which intersect 
Germany render travelling by water 
practicable and pleasant ,• there 
being on many of these rivers 
Marktschiffs (a sort of Coche d’eau ), 
which travel regularly from city to 
city. 

Private vessels likewise may be 
procured. 

The voyage from Frankfort on the 
Mein to Cologne is delightful; as is 
that from Ralisbon to Vienna*. 

ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO 
BERLIN. 

\\ Eschcnburgh * 

2 Jioitzew'mrgh 
1 J Lubthen 

2J Lenzen —This town is charmingly situ¬ 
ated. A ferry over the Elbe. 

\\ Perleberg 

1 Kleezke 
1J Kyritz 

2 Fehrbellin 
2 Eoetzo 

Berlin 

16| posts. 

Berlin, the metropolis of Prussia, 
and one of the most splendid cities 
in Germany, is watered by the 
Spree, and supposed to contain (in¬ 
cluding its garrison) 151,000 in¬ 
habitants. Some of the objects best 
worth notice here are, The Chateau, 
Royal — Monbijou—the Royal Sta¬ 
bles — the Arsenal , deemed the finest 
building of its kind in Europe; its 
Court contains twenty-one masks, 
representing Death, by Schluter; 
and the Statue of Frederick I, is by 
Schluter and Jacobi— The Italian 
Opera-house, which contains five 
thousand spectators— the Royal Li¬ 
brary built after the design of 
Frederick II— the buildings of the 
Royal Academy—the Theatre and 
Churches in the Place de Gens- 
iVarmes—the Hotel de I dle—the 
Bank—the Governor's Palace—P Ho- 

* A Coche d’eau goes every Sunday 
from Ratisbon, and arrives at Vienna in 
three days, or three and a half, The pas¬ 


[Ch. VIII. 

tel des Cadets—V Hotel des Invalules 
—the Palaces of Prince Henry , the 
Prince Royal, Prince Louis of Prus¬ 
sia, Sfc.—the Cathedral—the Church 
of S. Hedewige—the Church belong¬ 
ing to the Garrison, and containing 
four pictures by Rhode, which re¬ 
present the death of four celebrated 
Prussian Warriors— the Church of 
S. Peter—the Church of S. Mary, 
and its Gothic Tower—the Church of 
S. Nicholas, remarkable for its an¬ 
tiquity, paintings, and sculpture; 
and likewise, for the monument of 
PutYendorff— the Churches of S. So¬ 
phia and S. Dorothy, the latter of 
which contains the monument of 
Count de Mark— the Parochial 
Church—the Place de Guillaume, 
ornamented with statues— the colos¬ 
sal equestrian statue of the Elector 
Frederick- William, deemed the chef- 
d'oeuvre of Schluter— the Pont- 
Royal—the magnificent Branden- 
burgh Gate, built after the model of 
the Propylaeum at Athens— the por¬ 
celain Manufacture —and the Iron 
Foundery. 

To the Italian opera the audience 
are admitted gratis; Foreigners being 
placed in the second and third row 
of boxes. At the butfa-opera, and 
the German Theatre, the price for 
each place in the first row of boxes 
is sixteen groschen; in the second 
row, twelve groschen; in the par¬ 
quet, twelve groschen; in the am¬ 
phitheatre, eight groschen; and in 
the gallery, four groschen. 

Clubs, called Resources, and the 
Fishery at Stralau, on the 24th of 
August, serve to diversify the amuse¬ 
ments of this city. 

The principal Promenades are, 
under the Lime-trees — the Place 
de Guillaume—the Place de Doehn- 
hof—the Park—Le Cercle—Belle¬ 
vue—the Garden of the Royal School 
—and the Coffee and Lemonade 
Gardens. 

Here are three classes of Hotels, 

sage-money, for a gentleman or lady, is a 
ducat; and for a servant, a convention- 
dollar, 


Ch. VIII.] 

in the first of which may be placed 
La Ville de Paris—V Aigle d’Or — 
La Ville de Rome—Le Cerf d?Or -— 
and U Hotel de Russie*. A tariff, 
exhibiting the prices at these hotels 
(which prices are fixed by govern¬ 
ment), is open to the inspection of 
every Traveller. Ready-furnished 
lodgings are advertised in the news¬ 
paper ; and the rent of two rooms 
in a good situation is from eight to 
twelve crowns per month. 

The wages of a Valet-de-Place is 
twelve groschen a day, provided he 
be kept no longer than eight o’clock 
in the evening: and sixteen groschen 
if he remain beyond that hour. 

The price of a job carriage is two 
crowns a day; and the fare in a 
hackney coach from six to eight 
groschen, according to the distance. 

Restaurateurs charge for dinner 
from six to twelve groschen per head. 

The environs of Berlin contain 
several objects worth notice ; among 
which is Sans-Souci; where the 
Gallery of Paintings exhibits a 
sketch of Moses, by Rembrandt—• 
Roman Filial Piety, by Guercino— 
the four Evangelists, by Vandyck— 
and Venus attired by the Graces, to¬ 
gether with the Judgment of Paris, 
by Rubens. 

Persons who like water-parties, 
may go in boats to Treptow r , Char¬ 
iot ten burg, Sfc. 

ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO LEIP- 
SIC. 

7j Lenzen 
li Arendsee 
1 ~ Osterburgh 

Stendal—The Cathedral of S. Ni¬ 
cholas merits notice, 
li Burgstall 

1 Magdebmgh—This city is supposed to 
contain 30,000 Inhabitants. Best 
Hotels, L'Aubtrge d’Allmer, and 
Le Roi de Prusse. 

1 Baize 
1 Kalbe 
Coethen 
1 Zoerbig 
1 La rids berg 
Leipzig. 


411 

This town is supposed to contain 
above 32,000 inhabitants. The ob¬ 
jects best worth notice are, The Pleis- 
senbourg—the Paulinum—the Col¬ 
lege of the Princes, and the Red Col¬ 
lege—the ancient Arsenal—the Hotel 
de Ville—the Cour d*Auerbach in 
Fair time— the Exchange—the Col¬ 
lege of S. Thomas—the Manege—the 
Theatre—the Churches of S. Nicho¬ 
las and S. Thomas—the House of Mr. 
Muller, which contains thirteen ceil¬ 
ings, by Oeser— the Esplanade —and 
the Public Libraries. 

The Promenades are numerous 
and pleasant. The prices at the 
German Theatre are, for a box in 
the first row, four crowns; in the 
second row, three crowns; in the 
third row, eight bons-groschen; 
and, for a place in th e parterre, six 
bons-groschen; unless it be Fair 
time, when something more is paid. 

The three Fairs are held at Christ¬ 
mas, Easter, and Michaelmas; and 
at these Fairs as many books are 
said to be sold yearly as amount to 
500,000 rix-dollars. 

The principal inns are U Hotel de 
Saxe, U Hotel de Baviere, and V Ange 
Bleu. 

The price of a front room, fuel 
inclusive, at an Inn, is one florin 
per day ; and of a back-room, eight 
bons-groschen. The wages of a 
Valet-de-Place is one florin per day; 
unless it be during Fair time, when 
he expects a crown. Job carriages, 
and common hacks may always be 
found before the Gates of S. Pierre, 
and Grimma. 

Leipsic will henceforth be me¬ 
morable for having given its name 
to one of the most important modern 
battles ever fought—a battle in 
which near half a million of men, 
commanded by three Emperors, a 
King, and an Heir-apparent to a 
throne, were engaged during little 
less than an hundred hours—they 
fought in a circle embracing above 
fifteen miles. 


GERMANY—BERLIN—LEIPSIC. 


2Of posts. 


* This is an excellent Inn, and contains a good Table d'Hote, 



412 


APPENDIX. 


ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO DRESDEN. 

1J Wurzcn — The Cathedral here merits 
notice. 

1 Wernsdorf 

1 Stauchitz 

l J Meissen Best inn, Le Sole'll d’Or. 

lj Dresden. 

posts. 

ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC THROUGH 
GOTHA, TO FRANKFORT ON THE 
MEIN: 

1 Lutzen —Near this small town is the 
spot on which Gustavus Adolphus 
perished ; and a stone marks the 
spot where this hero’s body was 
found. 

Charles XII., being in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Lutzen, went to visit 
the field of battle; little thinking, 
perhaps, that treachery would soon 
destroy his life, as it did that of his 
glorious model, Gustavus. 

1 Weisscnfels— The Castle here, and its 
Church merit notice. 

1 Naumburgh— The Cathedral here me¬ 
rits notice. Best inns, The Post- 
house, and Le Cheval. The wine 
of this neighbourhood resembles 
Burgundy. 

1 Auerstadt —Between Naumburgh and 
Auerstadt, the road traverses the 
mountain of Koesen. 

Weimar 

Erfurt—This city is enriched with a 
University. 

lj Gotha—The inhabitants of Gotha are 
estimated at 11,000. The Cha¬ 
teau — the great Terrace — the 
Arsenal — the churches called 
Kloster and Neumarkts Kirchen 
—the English Garden—the pub¬ 
lic Library and that of the So¬ 
vereign—the Royal Collection of 
Paintings , 4c.—and the Gymna¬ 
sium merit notice. 

Best inns, Le N'cgre, and LeGrclot 
d’Argent. 

The road to Gotha is execrable in 
wet weather. 

lj Eisenach — La Klemme , is a good inn. 
The Castle of Wartbourg, which 
stands on the summit of a hill in 
this vicinity, once served as an 
asylum to Luther. 

1 Berka —A bad road from Eisenach to 
Berka. 

I Wach —Pavement from Berka hither. 

1J Hunefeld 

1 Fulde —This city contains 12,000 in¬ 
habitants. The objects best worth 
notice are, The ChcUeav — the Ca¬ 
thedral—the Churches of S. Bo¬ 
niface and S. Michael — the Con¬ 
vent of S. Sauveur—the Bene¬ 
dictine and Franciscan Convents 
—■the Porcelain Manufacture, 


[Ch. VIII 

and the Library belonging to the 
University. 

The celebrated Baths of Bruckenau 
are near Fulde. 

Best inns. The Post-house, and Le 
Cigne. The wine of S. John’s 
mountain, in this neighbourhood, 
is excellent, and sold in sealed 
bottles out of the Prince Bishop’s 
cellar. 

1 Neuhof 
f Schluchtern 
1 Saalmunster 

1 Gelnhausen — Le Soleil is a good inn. 
lj Hanau —A pretty town. The Castle 
merits notice. 

1 Frankfort. 


20jf posts. 

The inhabitants of Frankfort are 
estimated at 43,000, beside near 
7000 Jews, who live detached from 
the rest of the people. 

The objects best worth notice in 
this city are, the Cathedral — the 
Church of S. Catherine — the Convent 
des Predicateurs, containing a cele¬ 
brated Assumption, by Albert Durer 
—the Hotel de Ville—the Teutonic 
Palace—the Palace of the Prince of 
Thurn and Taxis—the Exchange — 
the Arsenals—the Foundery—the 
Hotel-Dieu—the Maison de force — 
the Hospital of S . Esprit—the Theatre 
—and the Bridge , thrown over the 
Mein. 

Inns, La Cour d’ Angleterre — La 
Maison rouge—Le Cigne blanc , 
FrankfortFair is held twice a year ; 
namely, at Easter, and during the 
latter end of Summer. 

ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO BRUNS¬ 
WICK. 

H Groskugel 

1J Halle—Inns, L’Anneau d’Or—Prince 
Royal de Prusse—Lion d’ Ur. 

Among the objects best worth no¬ 
tice here are, the Cathedral, and 
the University. 
lj Kdnnern 

Aschersleben — The Church of S. 
Etienne — the Public School — 
and the ruins of the Chdteau 
d’ Ascanie, merit notice. 

1 Quedlinburgh — The Chdteau — the 
Library — and the Promenade, 
called Le Bruhl, merit notice. 

1 Halberstadt 
1} Roklum 
ljf Brunswick. 


II posts 




Ch. VIII.] GERMANY—BRUNSWICK—HANOVER, 8fc. 


Brunswick is supposed to contain 
28,000 inhabitants. The objects 
best worth attention in this city are, 
the Castle, called Grauen Hof—the 
new Hotel de Ville—the Most-Haus, 
in the Square, before which is an 
antique statue of a Lion— the Build¬ 
ings of Carolinum—the Opera-house 
—the Cathedral—the Hospitals—the 
Fountain, in the Place de Hegen- 
markt — the'Church of S. Nicholas, 
which contains two good pictures— 
the Churches of S. Catherine and S. 
Andrew—the old Hotel de Ville—the 
royal Collection of Natural History, 
Paintings, fyc. —and the Carolinum 
Library. 

Brunswick is famous for a sort of 
beer called Mumme. 

Best inn, V Hotel d?Angleterre. 

At Wolfenbuttel, near this city, 
there is a valuable Library ; and at 
the Chateau de Salzdahlum a good 
collection of Pictures. 

ROUTE FROM BRUNSWICK TO HA¬ 
NOVER. 

1J Peine 

1 Sehnde 

l Hanover. 

3j posts. 

This city contains about 18,000 
inhabitants; and the objects best 
worth notice are the Church belonging 
to the Chateau—the Opera-house — 
the royal Stables—the Maison des 
Oats—the Arsenal—the Mint—the 
Cannon Foundery—the Monument 
of Werlhof, in the public Cemetery— 
the Monument of Leibnitz —and the 
royal Library. The principal Pro¬ 
menades are, The Countess ot Yar¬ 
mouth’s Garden—Ellernreid Wood 
—Count Walmoden’s Garden—and 
the drive to Herrnhausen, and Mont- 
Brillant. 

Best Inns, La Taverne de Londres 
—Prince d’Eutin —and La Maison 
de Strelitz. 

ROUTE FROM HANOVER TO GOT¬ 
TINGEN. 

1 Tiedenwiesen —This road is excellent. 

1 Bruggen 
Eimbeck 


413 

1 Nordhehn —A famous Organ in the 
parochial Church. 

1 Gottingen. 

posts. 

The city contains near 8000 inha¬ 
bitants. The objects best worth no¬ 
tice are, the six Churches — the Build¬ 
ings of the University—the Observa¬ 
tory—the Lying-in Hospital—the 
anatomical Theatre—the botanic Gar¬ 
den — the Manege, and the Library 
belonging to the University. This 
Library contains above 120,000 vo¬ 
lumes; and is deemed the best in 
Germany. 

Inns, La Couronne — Le Rot de 
Prusse, 8fc. 

The environs of Gottingen are in¬ 
teresting; and especially so is the 
excursion to llarz. 

ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO DANT- 
ZICK. 

Miles. 

3 Torgau —The principal Church here 
contains the Tomb of Catherine a 
Boria, Luther’s Wife. 

]£ Herzberg 
1 Hohenbuclcau 
l Luck au 
l Lubben 

Liberosa 
l Bceschow 

1 Muhlrose 

Frankfort on the Oder—This city con¬ 
tains 12,000 inhabitants; and 
among the objects best worth 
notice, are the Churches of S. 
Mary and S. Nicholas — the 
Chartreuse—the Hotel de Ville — 
the Casernes—the Hotel Dieu — 
the Bridge—the Monument of 
Prince Leopold of Brunswick, 
who was drowned in the Oder, by 
attempting to save the lives of 
others — and the Monument of 
Kleist, the Poet. 

There is a University here: and 
among the best inns are, Les trois 
Couronnes, L’Aigle noir —and Le 
Soldi d’or. 

2 Custrin 
2 f Neudamm 
3^ Soldin 

Pyritz 

3 Stargnrd— The Church of S. Mary, in 

this town, merits notice. The best 
inn is Les trois Couronnes, near 
the Post-house. 

2 \ Mas sow 

3 Neugard 
2j Plathoiv 
2 1 Pinnow 
2.| Ley pin 



414 


APPENDIX. 


C'derlin 
3| Coeslin 
3 f Pankenin 
3 A Sclilave 

3j i Stolpe —Famous for the amher found 
in its vicinity. 

Lupoio 
5 Godentau 
3| Neustadt 
3j Katz 
3j Dantzig. 

75 miles. 

This city contains 48,000 inha¬ 
bitants ; and among the objects best 
worth notice are, the Exchange—the 
Cathedral , which is one of the finest 
churches in Europe —the Lutheran 
College—the Hotel de Ville—the Cour 
des Nobles—the Arsenal —and the 
Junker- Garten. 

Inns, La Maison Anglaise—Les 
trois Negres, 8fc. 

ROUTE FROM FRANKFORT ON THE 
MEIN TO AUGSBURGH. 

Posts. 

X Hanau —Philipsruhe and Wilhelms- 
bad, in this neighbourhood, merit 
notice. 

If Dettingen —Memorable for the battle 
of 1743. 

§ Aschaffenburg 
1 Obernburg 
l Miltenburg 
1 Hundheim 
1 Bischofscheim 
1 Mergentheim 
lA Blaufelden 

if Crailsheim — Famous for its China 
Manufacture, and mineral waters. 
1 D'unkelsbuhl — The Church of the 
Carmelites, in this town, is adorned 
with a fine picture. 

\\ Ndrdlingen —A Crucifix, attributed to 
Euonaroti, and an excellent Paint- 
ing, by Albert Durer, embellish 
the principal Church here. 

1 J Donauworth 
if Meidingen 
if Augsburgh. 

18f posts. 

Ausburgh, formerly denominated 
Augusta Vindelicorum, the largest 
city in Swabia, and supposed to be 
the most ancient, is seated between 
the rivers Lech and Wertach, and 
contains 36,000 inhabitants. The 
objects best worth notice here are 
the Cathedral, which comprises 
twenty-four chapels; and is adorned 
with a celebrated picture of the Re¬ 
surrection, by Zoll— the Abbey of $ . 


[Oh. VIII. 

IUric—the Church of S. Anne—the 
Hotel de Ville—the Tower of Perlacli 
—the Arsenal—the House of Correc¬ 
tion—the Gate called Ein lass—the 
public Fountains—some private houses 
which contain antique paintings in 
fresco—and the Libraries belonging 
to the Cathedral and S. Ulric ; the lat¬ 
ter of which possesses the drawings 
and sketches of Albert Durer. 

Augsburgh exhibits vestiges of 
Roman Antiquities. 

Les trois Maures, has been al¬ 
ready mentioned as the best inn; 
E Agneau blanc, in the Fauxbourg, 
likewise merits recommendation. 

ROUTE FROM AUGSBURGH, TO CON¬ 
STANCE, SCHAFFHAUSEN, AND 
BASLE. 

if Schwabmunchen 
1A Mindelheitn 
l A Memmingen 
li Wurzach 
f TVolfek. 

| Ravensberg 

1 Stadelle— The first view of the Lake 
of Constance is enchanting, 
l Moersburg 

X Constance—Travellers who pursue this 
route cross the Lake to Constance; 
and for a four-oared boat, large 
enough to convey a carriage, the 
common price is from three to 
four florins, together with about 
thirty kreutzers to the boatmen for 
drink-money. 

The Cathedral at Constance is a 
fine edifice; and its doors merit 
observation. 

The principal inn is UAigle d’or. 

Travellers should visit the Island of 
Meinau. 
l Zell 

A Singen —Near this place, on the sum¬ 
mit of a rock, originally volcanic, 
is the Castle of Hohentwiel, which 
belongs to the Sovereign of Wur- 
temberg, and now serves as a state- 
prison. 

1 S chaff hausen—The bridge here, con¬ 
structed by a common carpenter, 
named Grubenmann, once merited 
observation : but the ruthless hand 
of War has destroyed it. The 
public Libraries deserve notice. 

About one league from Schaffhausen, 
on the way to Zurich, is the cele¬ 
brated Full of the Rhine; and 
Travellers who wish to see the 
terrestrial rainbow's which this 
stupendous Cataract exhibits, 
should visit it before nine o’clock 
in the morning. 


GERMANY—RATISRON—MUNICH. 


415 


Ch. VIII.] 


2 Wald shut 

1 Lauffenburgh —Here is another Fall 
of the Rhine; but not equal in 
beauty to that of Schaffhausen. 

1^ Rheinfelden —Between Rheinfelden 
and Basle is Augst, anciently Au¬ 
gusta Rauracorum, where re¬ 
mains may be traced of Roman 
Antiquities, 
l Basle. 

18£ posts. 

This is a flourishing commercial 
city, supposed to contain 15,000 in¬ 
habitants. The objects best worth 
notice here are, the Arsenal—the 
Bridge thrown over the Rhine— 
the Cathedral , a Gothic edifice which 
contains some Antiquities, together 
with the Tomb of Erasmus— the 
Hotel de Ville, where there is an 
apartment painted by Holbein, who 
was a native of Basle— The Dance 
of Death, painted on the walls of the 
Cemetery, and supposed to have 
been done by a pupil of Holbein— 
and the public Library , which is 
embellished with paintings by Hol¬ 
bein, Antiquities, Natural History, 
fyc. Basle contains a University : 
and among the best inns are, Les 
trois Rois, and LaCigogne. 

There is a singular custom in this 
city, that of setting all the clocks one 
hour too fast. 

ROUTE FROM AUGSBURGII TO 
RATISBON. 

l J Aicha —The ruins of the two Castles of 
Wittelsbach, from which family 
descend the princes of Bavaria, 
render this small town remark¬ 
able. 

Waidhofen 
1£ GeisenJ'eld 
H Neustadt 
H Saul 
Ratisbon. 

8^ posts. 

Ratisbon is seated on the Danube; 
and contains 22,000 inhabitants. 
The objects best worth notice in this 
city are, its ancient Bridge, three 
hundred and fifty yards in length— 
the Cathedral—the Abbey of S. Em- 
meran — The Hotel de Ville and 
the Library of the Prince of Thurn, 


and Taxis, which is open to the 
public Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Fridays, from ten till twelve in the 
morning, and from two till five in 
the afternoon. Persons who wish to 
see it on other days must apply to 
the Librarian. The town Library — 
and the Library and Cabinet of the 
Abbey of S. Emmeran, likewise 
merit attention. 

The best inn is Les trois Heaumes. 

ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO 
MUNICH. 

1 Eglofsheim 
l Buckhausen 
1 Ergolspach 

lj Landshut—The objects best worth no¬ 
tice in this town are, the Palace 
—the Gothic Tower belonging to 
the Church of S. Martin—the 
Church of S. Job—the Church 
belonging to the Domenican 
Convent—the Abbey of Seeligen- 
thal —and the Matson de Ville. 
l Mospurg 

l Freysing—The objects best worth at¬ 
tention in this town are, the Ca¬ 
thedral—the Benedictine Church 
—the Chapel and Cupola of S. 
Peter’s—the Abbey of Weyhen- 
Stephan—the collegiate Church 
of S. Veit —and the Benedictine 
Lyceum. 

Principal inns. La Charrue, and 
Les sept Glands. 
lj Garching 

f Munich. 

sj posts. 

Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is 
seated on the Iser; and contains 
above 40,000 inhabitants. The 
Royal Residence in this elegant city, 
though unpromising on the outside, 
is magnificent within ; and exhibits 
a fine collection of pictures; among 
which are an hundred and thirty 
Miniatures, each of them being 
valued at two hundred louis-d’ors. 
The Tapestry in this palace, repre¬ 
senting the exploits of Otho de Wit- 
telsback; the great Staircase; the 
Chapel, which contains a painting 
attributed to Buonaroti, together 
with the altar used by the unfortu¬ 
nate Mary, Queen of Scotland, 
during her imprisonment, and a par¬ 
ticularly fine organ, all merit notice; 



416 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. VIII. 


as do the Treasury, (which abounds 
with splendid jewels) and the Anti¬ 
quary*. Other objects which de¬ 
serve attention are, the Cabinet of 
;pictures belonging to the Duke of 
Litchenburg ; ci-devant Beauharnois 
—the Museum of carved ivory—the 
new Theatre—the paintings in the 
Church of Notre-Dame —the Church 
of the Theatins, which containsagood 
picture, by Sandrat, representing the 
Plague at Naples— The Church of the 
English Nuns, who educate young La¬ 
dies gratis— the picture, by Tintoret¬ 
to, (most provokingly cut in two, for 
the convenience of the candle-snuf¬ 
fer), in the Augustine-Church—the 
Church dedicated to S. Peter which 
contains good Pictures— the Libra¬ 
ries of the King, the Theatins, and 
the Academy of Sciences —and the 
royal Cabinets of Medals and Natu¬ 
ral History. 

Principal inns, L’ Aigle—Le die¬ 
ted blanc, &c. 

There are several pleasant Pro¬ 
menades in the vicinity of Munich : 
the royal Villas of Nvmphenburg, 
and Schlesheim, both situated at a 
short distance from the city, merit 
notice : Schlesheim contains a very 
large collection of pictures. 

ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO 
PRAGUE. 

l Kurn 
1 Nietenau 
1 Neukirchen 
1 Roez 

l Walmunchen 
1 Klentsch 
1 Temiz 
1 Storkau 
1 Stuab 

1 Pilsen —Best inn, La Croix (Tor. 

1 Rockizan 
1 Mantli 
1 Czer nowitz 
1 Zditz 

5 Beraun 

* The Statues lately found at Angina, fa 
Greek Island in the Mare vEgeum ,) now 
enrich the collectionof antiquitiesat Munich. 
They originally adorned the pediment of a 
temple consecrated to Minerva ; and all re¬ 
present warriors,one female figure excepted. 


1 Dusnik 
1 Prague. 

16£ posts. 

ROUTE FROM VIENNA, THROUGH 
RATISBON AND BRUSSELS, TO 
OSTEND. 

1 Burgersdorf 
1 Sighurtzkirchen 
1 Perschling 
l A'. Poelten 

1A Moelk—The Abbey here merits notice, 
lj Kemmelbach 
l Avis tet ten 
lj Strenberg 
1 Ems 

1 £ Lintz—The last post in Lower Austria. 
This town contains 20,000 inhabit¬ 
ants. Best inn, L'aigle noir. The 
women of Lintz are celebrated for 
their beauty. 

Efferding — The first post of Upper 
Austria. 

1J Bayersbach 
l Sichurdivg 
1 Sharding 

1 Passau—A fine town. The Cathedral 

and its organ, the Chateau, the 
Library de Lamberg, and the 
jirospect from the Garden of the 
Convent of Mariahilf, deserve 
attention. 

2 Vilzhofen 
2 Platting 

2 Straubing— The collegiate Church, the 
ci-devant Jesuits' College —and 
the Carmelite-Convent, which 
contains the Tomb of Duke Albert, 
merit notice ; as does the Abbey 
Ober-Altaich, which is in the vici¬ 
nity of Straubing. 

1A Psader 
1£ Ratisbon 
1§ Schumbach 
1 Teisuang 
1 Theining 
1 Postbaner 
1 Feucht 

1 Nuremberg—This city contains 30,000 
inhabitants; and the objects best 
worth notice are, the Cathedral, 
dedicated to S. Laurence, and 
adorned wdth beautiful painted 
glass— the Chapel of S. Anne — 
the Church of S. Claire, which 
contains a painting upon glass ex¬ 
ecuted in 1278— the Chapel de 
Mendel, adorned with several 
good pictures— the Chapel Holz- 

Thesc statues form an interesting link in the 
chain of ancient sculpture; as they are su¬ 
perior to the Egyptian style, though inferior 
to that of the most eminent Grecian Sculp¬ 
tors. 


Ch. VlTI.il GERMANY—WURTZBURGH—BRUSSELS, fyc. 4lT 


• schouherienne du S. Sepulcre — 
the imperial Chateau, embel¬ 
lished with valuable pictures ; for 
shewing which, the Custode ex¬ 
pects a florin— The Hotel de Ville ; 
likewise embellished with good 
pictures; for shewing which, the 
Custode expects two kopfstucks— 
—the Bridges—the Arsenal, 
which contains two Cannon dated 
1*199—and the Copper Mills. 

Best inns, Le Chevul Rouge, and 
Le Coq rouge. 

1 Farnbacli 
l Ernskirchen 

1 Langenfeld— The Post-House here is 
a good inn. 

1 Bossenheim 
l.J Kitzingen 

1 Wurtzburgh—The road from Nurem¬ 
berg hither is excellent. Wurtz¬ 
burgh contains 16,000 inhabitants. 
The objects best worth notice are, 
the Chateau, remarkable for its 
staircase — the Citadel, in the 
centre of which is an ancient 
Temple— the Arsenal — the Cha¬ 
pel of S. Mary—the Cathedral — 
the Church belonging to the 
ChapUre de Neumunster —the 
Chapitre de Hang—the Great 
Hospital—the Convent de S. 
Benoit—the Picture-Gallery be¬ 
longing to the Prince-Bishop, 
containing a Magdalene by Fesel 
•—and the Library belonging to 
the University. Best inns, La 
Cour de Franconie—La Paste — 
Le Cygne. The most celebrated 
wines of Franconia grow near 
Wurtzburgh, namely, the Vin de 
Lei-sle, the Vin de Stein, called 
Vin du S. Esprit, and the Vin de 
Caltnus. 

1 Remlingen 
1 Esselbach 
JJ Rohrbrunn 
1 Besenbach 
H Gottingen 
1 Hannau 

1 Frankfort on the Mein 
1 Koenigstein 
l£ IVierges 
13 Limburgh 
1 Walnerod 
1 Freylingen 
1 Gulroth 
1 Weyersbusch 
H Ukerot 
1 Siegburg 

H Cologne—This city is supposed to con¬ 
tain above 30,000 inhabitants ; and 
among the objects best woith 
notice are, the Cathedral the 
Church of the eleven thousand 
Virgins—the Church of the Mac¬ 
cabees—the Chapitre de S. Ge- 
reon—the Archiepiscopal Semi¬ 
nary— the Hotel de Ville—the 


Arsenal—the Hiero-solonitamite 
Chapel, which contains a cele 
brated painting—and the Cathe¬ 
dral Library. 

Cologne is paved with basalt.—One 
of the principal inns is, Le S. 
Esprit. 

1J Berglieim 
lj Linnig 

1 Gangelt 
1J Reckem 

Ton gem 
1£ .S'. Trond 

2 Tirlemont 

2 Louvain—The inhabitants of this town 
are supposed to amount to 40,000. 
One of the principal inns is. The 
Hotel de Cologne. 
lj Cortenberg 

l| Bruxelles—This city, the capital of the 
Kingdom of the Netherlands, is 
watered by the little river Senne, 
and supposed to possess about 
75,000 inhabitants. Its fortifica¬ 
tions are destroyed ; but its ram¬ 
parts, being planted with trees, 
form pleasant walks round this 
city. The Park, or public Gar¬ 
den, is adorned with fountains and 
statues, and encircled by splendid 
buildings. The Palace, in which 
the Austrian Viceroy formerly re¬ 
sided, contains a Picture-Gallery, 
and a public Library, rich in finely 
illuminated Manuscripts. The Ho¬ 
tel de Ville and its Gothic Tower 
—the Theatre — the Church of 
S. Gudule, and the Chapel of 
Notre-Dame—the Church and 
Place de S. Michel —the Place 
de Sablon, and the Canal, merit 
notice. Brussels is celebrated for 
its Manufacture of Lace. Here 
are several good inns; namely. 
The Hotel d’Angletcrre —The Ho¬ 
tel de Belle-vue —The Hotel de 
Flandre, §c. 

This may be called a cheap city 
for permanent residence; though 
house-rent is dear. 

Not far hence, and in the neighbour¬ 
hood of Genappe, a market-town 
on the river Dyle, is the celebrated 
Plain of Waterloo; where a small 
Band of British Heroes vanquished 
the gigantic power of France, and 
put to flight her ablest General. 

If Asche 

Alost 

Quadrecht 

1 Gand 

2 Altercn 
2 Bruges 

2 Ostende— The Hotel de Ville, and 
some Pictures, by Flemish Mas¬ 
ters, which adorn the Churches in 
this town, merit notice. The best 

- inn is, Nicholson’s Hotel. 

86j posts. 

2 £ 



418 APPENDIX. [Ch. VIII. 


Packet* sail every Tuesday and 
Friday, weather permitting-, from 
Colchester to Ostend; and the 
common passage is about twelve 
hours. 

Packets usually sail twice a week 
from Ostend to Harwich; and the 
common passage, with a fair wind, is 
about twenty hours. 

Packets likewise sail from Ostend 
to Margate; and the common pas¬ 
sage is about twelve hours. 

ROUTE FROM FRANKFORT ON THE 

MEIN, THROUGH CASSEL, TO 

MUNSTER. 

l.t Friedberg 
1 Butzbach 

1 Giessen—The University of Giessen 
was founded in 1607. The Library 
—the Pcedagogium—the Chhteau 
—the Arsenal — and the Church 
of S. Pancrace merit notice. 

1 Marburgh — The Library, belonging 
to the University, here, is a fine 
one. The best inn is, the Post- 
House. 

Holzdorf 
1 Jessberg 
1 Wabern 

Cassel—This city is supposed to con¬ 
tain about 20,000 inhabitants ; and 
the objects best worth notice are, 
the Chhteau—the Palace—the 
Place de Frederic and the Statue 
by which it is adorned —the Arse¬ 
nal—the Roman Catholic Church 
— the reformed Church — and the 
Statue of the Landgrave, Charles 
—the Opera-house—the Museum- 
Fredericien — and the Pictures in 
the Hall of the Academy of 
Painting. 

The principal inns are, the Hotel 
d’Angleterre, (already mentioned) 
— Munpin’s — The Stockholm — 
and L’Aigle. 
i Wertuffeln 
1 Ostendorf 
1 Liclitenaii 

1 Paderborn — The Cathedral here— the 

ci-devant Jesuits’ Church —and 
the University, merit notice. The 
source of the river Pader is in the 
middle of the town. 

H Nienkirchen 

2 TVarensdorf 
li Munster. 

18fc posts. 

This city contains 25,000 inha¬ 
bitants; and the Church of S. Lam¬ 
bert—the episcopal Palace—the Ca¬ 


thedral —and the Chapel of Bernard 
de Galen , merit notice. 

VOYAGE ON THE RHINE FROM 
MAYENCE TO COBLENTZ. 

Persons who wish to make this 
excursion, should leave Mayence to¬ 
ward evening: and go either to 
Mittelheim or Langenwinkel. Next 
morning, about half an hour before 
sun-rise, they should walk to Johan- 
nisberg; and from the Balcony of 
the Castle there, contemplate the 
view. 

From Langenwinkel to Geisen- 
heim, the time occupied in going is 
about an hour; and at the latter 
place, Travellers should disembark, 
and visit Neiderwald , a Garden be¬ 
longing to the Count d’Ostein, and 
embellished with delightful pro¬ 
spects. From Geisenheim to S. 
Goaer, the time occupied in going 
is about four hours; and here Tra¬ 
vellers should sleep; rising, however, 
at five o’clock the next morning, in 
order to reach Coblents by nine. 

Two boats, one to convey a car¬ 
riage, and the other to convey Pas¬ 
sengers, usually cost about three Ca- 
rolins; (seventy-two francs;) and for 
five Carolins, Travellers may be 
conveyed to Cologne, provided they 
do not choose to stop at Coblentz. 

The principal inns at Coblentz 
are, Le Roi des Romains, and The 
Post-House; and the objects most 
worthy of attention in this town are, 
the collegial Church of S. Castor 
and the Fort of Ehrenbreitstein , ori¬ 
ginally a Roman work. 

EXCURSION FROM GOTTINGEN to 
THE MINES OF HARTZ. 

Behind Kattlenburg rise the first 
hills which belong to the chain of 
the Hartz. 

Osterode — This town contains 
4000 inhabitants— Klausthal —inn. 
La Couronne. This town contains 
10,000 inhabitants. The richest 
Mines are La Caroline , which is 105 
fathom deep; and La Dorothte , 
which is 102 fathom deep. 


Ch. VIII.] GERMANY—CELEBRATED BATHS. 


The Georgeslollen is a remarkable 
work. 

Ludwiger-Rechenhaus exhibits a 
collection of all the machines em¬ 
ployed in the Mines. 

Two miles from Klaustlial is the 
ancient imperial city of Goslar; 
which has only 7000 inhabitants; 
though it contains from fourteen to 
fifteen thousand houses. This city 
is celebrated for its excellent beer, 
called Gose, of which there are seven 
kinds; and that most esteemed is 
called Beste Krug. Half a league 
from this city is the Rammelsberg, 
the most ancient of the Mines of 
Hartz. 

On the road leading from Isenburg 
to Brocken not far from the Cha¬ 
teau de Stappelnburgh, is a beauti¬ 
ful prospect; and from the summit 
of Brocken a plain is discoverable, 
which extends seventy leagues, and 
contains five millions of people. 

From Brocken Travellers usually 
go to Elbingerode, in order to see 
the Grotto called Bauhmanshole. 
The Stalactites which adorn this 
Grotto are beautiful and various; 
but the objects most interesting here 
are petrified human bones, supposed 
to be antediluvian. At S. Andreas - 
burgh , in this neighbourhood, was 
found a piece of silver, weighing 
eighty pounds. 

This excursion may be easily ac¬ 
complished in a fortnight. 

CELEBRATED GERMAN 
BATHS. 

CARLSBAD. 

Carlsbad contains about 3,000 
inhabitants, and several lodging- 
houses. The price of apartments 
varies according to the number of 
persons who frequent the Baths; but 
a good suite of rooms, with several 
beds, seldom lets for more than ten 
florins a week. 

The best Traiteurs usually charge 
eight groschen per head for dinner. 
At the Salle de Boheme, and the 
Salle de Saxe, breakfast, either of 


419 

coffee or chocolate, costs half ft 
kopfstuck and twelve kreutzers. For 
loading, or unloading a travelling 
carriage, the price is a goulden. To 
the Valet-de-Place, who goes round 
with the visiting-tickets of Itine¬ 
rants, when they arrive, and when 
they depart, the fee is two gouldens. 
For reading the gazettes during 
the whole season, the price is one 
goulden. The drawers of water at 
each spring expect from every cus¬ 
tomer a kopfstuck or two, as a 
farewell present; and the waiters at 
the Salle de Boheme, and the Salle 
de Saxe, expect every person whom 
they have attended, to give them at 
least one goulden as a parting com¬ 
pliment. The entrance-money at 
the balls is one goulden per head; 
and persons who require a physician, 
while they use the Baths, commonly 
give him four or five ducats when 
his attendance ceases. 

The roads in this neighbourhood 
are abominable. 

PYRMONT. 

The Pyrmont season commences 
about the end of June. The new 
lodging-house at the Baths is a good 
one; and the price of each apart¬ 
ment is marked over the door. There 
are several other lodging-houses. 
Dinner costs from eight to sixteen 
groschen per head, according to its 
quality ; and the public amusements 
here are numerous and various. 

SPA. 

The season at Spa commences 
about the end of May. Here are 
lodgings of all descriptions, and all 
prices. Traiteurs send out good 
dinners at four francs a head; and 
persons who like to dine at a Table 
de Hote are particularly well served 
for three francs a head. Saddle- 
horses cost, by the day, from five 
to six francs each. 

Spa, to lovers of gaiety, is plea¬ 
sant ; though, compared with many 
other places on the Continent, ex¬ 
pensive. 


2 e 2 


420 


appendix 


ROUTE FROM VIENNA. TO CALRLS- 
BAD, THROUGH EGER AND ZWODA. 

1 Enzersdorf 
1 Stockerau 
1J Weikersdof 
1 Meisau 
; 1 Horn 
H Goffritx 

1 Schivurzenau 
11 Shretns 

Schtvarzbach 
l| lVittingau 
Budweis 

2 Moldauthein [ 

2 Pise/c 

1 Strakonitz 

1 Horazdiowitn 
l£ Gr'unberg 

2 Pilsen 
2 Miess 

1 Tschernoschin 
1 Plan 
1 Sandau 
1 Eger 
lj Swoda 

Carlsbad—The best road to Carlsbad 

-- is this, through Eger and Zwoda. 

32J posts. 

ROUTE FROM HANOVER TO PYR- 
MONT. 

l£ Springe 

1 Hameln —A strong place. 

1 Pyrmont—The Chariot de Poste goes 

■- from Hanover to Pyrmont during 

3£ the months of June, July, and August. 

ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO PYR¬ 
MONT, 

1 Harburgh 
Tostedt 
Rotenburgh 

I Ottersberg 

II Brbne 
l| Bassum 

1 Barenburgh 
1 Ucht 

Minden—La Ville de Berlin is a 
good hotel. 

1 Rinteln—This town contains a cele¬ 
brated University. 
l£ Pyrmont. 


13j posts. 

ROUTE FROM BRUSSELS, THROUGH 
AIX-LA - CH APELLE AND LIEGE, 
TO SPA. 

l£ Cortenberg 
1 £ Louvain 
2 Tirlemont 
2 S. Trond 
ll Tongres 
1$ Rec/cheim 
lj Sittart 
1 Geilenkirchen 


[Ch. VIII. 

l Julicrs —The principal inn here is La 
Cour Impcriale. 

The distance from Juliers to Cologne 
is two posts and a half. 
l£ Aix-la-Chapelle —This city contains 
above 27,000 inhabitants. The 
Cathedral, wherein is the Tomb of 
Charlemagne— the Hotel de Ville 
—the Baths— and the ci-devant 
Jestiits’ College, are the objects 
best worth notice. Here are se¬ 
veral inns. 

From Aix-la-Chapelle to Maestricht, 
is three German miles. 
l£ Batisse 
1 Liege. 

17^ posts. 

This city is watered by the Maes, 
and supposed to contain above 
80,000 inhabitants: its Citadel com¬ 
mands a magnificent prospect; and 
the Hotel des Etats—the Hotel de 
Ville—the Fountain in the Grande 
Place — the Cathedral, dedicated to 
S. Lambert — the Quay, on the banks 
of the Maes—and the Bridge thrown 
over that river, all merit notice. 
Liege boasts a delightful Prome¬ 
nade, called Coronmaes. 

Among the best inns are, VAigle 
noir, and La Cour de Londres. 

German 

Miles. 

3 Spa. 

ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO BADEN. 

1 Neudorf 

1 Baaden — Celebrated for its mineral 

■- waters. 

2 posts. 

ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO PRES- 
BURGH. 

1 Schwachat 
1 Fischmnent 
1 Regelsbrunn 

1 Teutsch - Altenburgh — The frontier 
town of Hungary. 

1 Pres burgh. 

5 posts. 

This city, in time past the capital 
of Hungary, is not supposed at the 
present moment to contain above 
22,000 inhabitants; though its po¬ 
pulation, previous to the removal of 
the seat of government to Buda, was 
estimated at 28,000. Presburgh is 
finely situated on an eminence over¬ 
looking an immense plain, watered 





421 


Cli. VIIT.] HUNGARY—PRESBURGH—BUDA, 8fe. 


by the Danube ; and, among the 
objects best worth notice here, are 
an equestrian Statue, by Donner, of 
S. Martin, which adorns the paro¬ 
chial Church— another Statue, by 
the same sculptor, in the Esterhasz- 
Chapel— The Governor’s Palace — 
the royal Chancery—The Theatre — 
the Public Granaries—the Caserne 
—the royal Chateau—the Cupola of 
the Church of S. Elizabeth—the royal 
Catholic Academy —and, the Lu¬ 
theran Gymnasium. The public 
amusements consist of operas, Ger¬ 
man plays, concerts, and balls. Here 
are some good private Libraries, and 
Cabinets of Natural History; toge¬ 
ther with a celebrated Collection of 
wry faces. 

The Chateau de Lanscliitz, near 
Presburgh, is worth seeing ; as like¬ 
wise is the Chateau d’Esterhasz. 

ROUTE FROM TEUTSCH-ALTEN- 
BURGII TO BELGRADE. 

1 Kiltsee — A royal Chateau. 

1 Rackendorf 
1 Wieselburgh 

1 Hochstrass —Or, Hogstrass. A post 
and a half is sometimes charged 
here. 

1 Kaab—The population of this city is 
estimated at 13,000. Its Cathedral 
is magnificent. 

1 Goenyo 
1 Ais 

1 Comorn — The Church which formerly 
belonged to the Jesuits merits no¬ 
tice. 

1 Nessmely — Celebrated for excellent 
white wines. 

1 Neudorf 
1 Dorogh 
l£ Wereschtoar 

l Ofen, or Buda — The population of 
Buda, (called by the Germans 
Ofen,) is Estimated at 55,000, in¬ 
cluding the town of Pesth, from 
which it is separated only by the 
Danube. At Buda, the Hungarian 
regalia are kept : and the Crown 
which was presented in the year 
1000, by Pope Sylvester it., to 
Stephen, King of Hungary, is an 
imitation of that worn by the 
Greek Emperors. 

1 Teleny 
Ereschin 
1 A dony 

1 Pentele 
Foeldwar 

2 Paksch 
2 Tolnau 


1 Sckare — Celebrated for its wines; 
which are deemed superior to Bur¬ 
gundy. 

1£ Pobtaszek 
1 Sekescoe 

1 Mohacseh 

2 Baranyauar 

1 Laskajeld —The frontier town of Scla- 
vonia. 

1 Esseck—Vestiges of the ancient city of 
Mursa are discoverable here. 

1 Verra 
1 Wukowar 
1 Oppatowaz 
1 £ lllok 

1 Szuszek 

2 Peterwaradin 

1 Carlowits-Unterleg 
1 Poska 
1 Cserevicz 
1^ Banovze 

1 £ Semlin—This town contains a Health- 
Office for purifying letters and 
merchandize which come from 

- Turkey. 

45^ posts. 

From Semlin to Belgrade the 
time occupied in going is about one 
hour and a half. 

ROUTE FROM PRESBURGH TO KAS- 
CHAU AND TOKAY. 

1 Csekles 
1 Sarfdc 

1 Tyrnau—This town, adorned with 
nine large towers, and several 
churches, makes a handsome figure 
at a distance. The Cathedral — 
the Episcopal Palace—and the 
Academie des Nobles, merit no¬ 
tice. 

1 j Freystddtcl 
1 Rippyn 
1 Nngy-Tapolcsany 
1 Nitra-Sanibokreth 
1 IVestenics 

1 Baymozs —There are Hot Baths in 
this town. 

1 Rudno 

1 Turocz-Sambokreth 
1 Nolscova 

l£ Rosenberg—The Mineral Waters, 
and the College here are cele¬ 
brated. 

1 Pentendorf 
1 Okolisna 
1 Vihodna 
1 Eusivna 
1 Horka 

1 Lentschau — The Hotel de Ville is a 
handsome building: but the town 
is ill supplied with water. 

1 Biaczovez 
lj Berthod 

1 Eperies —Finely situated, and famous 
for its wines. 

1 Lcmesait 

1 Kaschau—A strong town. The Go¬ 
vernor’s House is a handsome 


423 


APPENDIX. 


building. The Baths of Kascbau 
are celebrated ; but the air is un¬ 
healthy. 

1 Szinne 

[ 1 Wilmann 

l£ Taliya —Famous for its wines. 

2 Tokay—On the mountain of S. The- 

r£se, and in the vineyard of Szar- 
warsch, grow the best wines of 
Tokay, which, in stomach com¬ 
plaints, have been found particu¬ 
larly beneficial*. 

Hungary abounds in excellent 
fruit, beef, wild-fowl, and venison; 
and the wines are so good, and at 
the same time so strong, that, to 
foreigners, they sometimes prove 
dangerous. 

In Gallicia, and the Bukovine, 
Travellers ought to carry provisions 
with them; as little beside straw 
can be procured at the inns. 

ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO TRIESTE. 

1 Neudorf 
1 Gunselsdorf 
1 Neustadt 
1 Neuklrchen 
1 Schottioien 
Moerzuschlag 
1 Krieglach 
1 Merzhofen 
l BrucJc 
1 Rettelslein 
1 Peggau 

1 Gratz — This town, the capital of 
Styria, is supposed to contain 
above 33,000 inhabitants; and 
among the objects best worth no¬ 
tice are, the Imperial Chdteau — 
tlce Mai son des Etats — the 
Church de la Cour, and that de¬ 
dicated to S. Catherine—the pa¬ 
rochial Church, adorned with a 
painting by Tintoretto— the ci-de¬ 
vant Jesuits’ College—the two 
Columns, and the Convent in the 

* The Hungarians have eight sorts of 
wine somewhat similar in flavour to To¬ 
kay ; and frequently sold under that name. 
The best Tokay is seldom if ever sold, 
t From Trieste to Fiuine, another Aus- 


[Ch. VIII. 

Fauxhourg of Muer — the Ly¬ 
ceum and its Library —and the 
Johanneeum. The Poor-house- 
which comprehends a general hos¬ 
pital, a lying-in hospital, a found¬ 
ling hospital, an asylum for Lu¬ 
natics, and another for the Aged, 
is a most benevolent and useful 
institution, 

The promenades in and about this 
town are pleasant. 

Best inn, The Sun . 

1 Kalsdorf 
1 Lebering 
1 Ehrenhausen 

lj| Mahrburg—This is the most populous 
town in Styria, Gratz excepted. 

1 Feistritz 
I Gannowitz 
li Cilli 
1 ^ Franz 
1 S. Oswald 
1 Potpetsch 

l£ Laybach — This city, the capital of the 
Duchy of Carniola, is supposed to 
contain about 11,000 inhabitants. 
The Cathedral, dedicated to S. 
Nicholas, merits notice ; as does 
the Church of S. Peter , in the 
Fauxbonrg. 

1 Ober-Laybach 
1 Lasse 

1 Adelsberg — There is a celebrated 
Grotto in this town ; and another, 
called The Grotto of S. Made- 
laine, at a short distance. 

The Lake of Zirknitz is only leagues 
from Adelsberg. 

1 Pr'uwald 
1 Sessana 

1 Trieste t—This is a Free-Port, with a 
spacious and safe Harbour, and a 
population estimated at above 

- 30,000 j. 

32 posts. 

The objects best worth notice here 
are, the Mole — the Lazzaretti 
— the Cathedral — the Greek 
Church — and the Roman An¬ 
tiquities. 

Principal inn, II buon Pastore. 

trian Free-Port, is a distance of five posts. 

1 The population of Trieste did not 
amount to more than 18,000 a few years 
since. 



428 


CHAPTER IX. 

PORTUGAL. 

Expense of going in a Post-Office Packet from Falmouth to Lisbon—Days appointed for 
sailing—Money of Portugal—Lisbon—Hotels—Population—Objects best worth notice 
—Cork Convent —Cintra—Water, eatables, and asses’ milk—Lodgings—Board—Fire¬ 
wood—Garden of the Convent of Necessitades—Public amusements—Price of draught 
horses—Passports, §c .—Route from Lisbon to Oporto—Ditto from Lisbon to Madrid. 


EXPENSE OF GOING IN A POST- 

OFFICE PACKET FROM FAL¬ 
MOUTH TO LISBON. 

Every cabin passenger usually 
pays for passage and board, (wine, 
tea, and sugar inclusive) twenty- 
three pounds, and every steerage 
passenger fourteen pounds. Female 
servants pay as cabin passengers. 
Children, under twelve months old, 
go free of charge; under four years 
old they pay as steerage passengers; 
and above that age as cabin pas¬ 
sengers. 

Lisbon - packets generally sail 
every Saturday; though every Fri¬ 
day is the time when they are order¬ 
ed to sail, from April till October. 

The accommodations on board 
these vessels are excellent. I would 
not, however, advise passengers to 
use the sheets, blankets, and pil¬ 
lows, belonging to the packet; but 
to provide plenty of their own: 
and this not merely to secure 
themselves from cold, and other un¬ 
pleasant circumstances, during their 
voyage; but likewise because blan¬ 
kets and down-pillows are particu¬ 
larly needful at Lisbon. Invalids 
who visit this city during winter 
should wear very warm clothing, 
and live in an apartment which 
fronts the south. 

MONEY OF PORTUGAL. 

1. S. d. 

A Ree 

10 Rees, equal to a half Vintem. 

20 Rees, equal to a Vintem ; in 

English money about ,,001 


5 Vintems, equal to a Testoon.. 0 0 6 

4 Testoons, equal to a Crusade 

of Exchange. 0 2 3 

24 Vintems, equal to a new Cru¬ 
sade . 0 2 8 

10 Testoons, equal to a Milree, 

(1000 Rees). 0 5 7 

48 Testoons, equal to a Moidore 17 0 

64 Testoons, equal to a Joannes 1 15 9 


Accounts in Portugal are kept 
in Rees. 

LISBON. 

Lisbon, anciently called Olisippo, 
and in Portuguese Lisboa, is a flou¬ 
rishing commercial city, seated near 
the mouth of the Tagus, or Tajo, 
embellished by one of the finest 
Harbours in Europe, and supposed 
to contain 200,000 inhabitants. 

Among the objects best worth 
notice in this metropolis and its en¬ 
virons are, the Royal Residence; the 
Exchange; the India- House ; the 
Arsenal; and the equestrian bronze 
statue of Joseph I.; all of which 
adorn the Praca do Commercio — the 
patriarchal Church; and that be - 
longing to the Convent of S. Roche s 
which comprises an Asylum lor 
Foundlings. In the last-named 
Church is a Chapel dedicated to S. 
Roche, and considered as one of the 
most richly-decorated temples of the 
Christian world. The picture above 
the altar is a particularly well exe¬ 
cuted Roman Mosaic ; as likewise 
is another picture on the right side 
of the Chapel : the pavement is 
wrought in Mosaic ; the pilasters 
are formed of porphyry, verde an- 





424 


APPENDIX. 


tique, lapis-lazuli, and other pre¬ 
cious marbles : the doors are bronze, 
beautifully worked and gilt: the 
candelabra and the lamps, are of 
solid silver; and the altar is com¬ 
posed of lapis lazuli, amethysts, and 
gold; and ornamented with a scrip¬ 
tural Group in alto-rilievo, which is 
one entire block of silver*. Other 
objects that deserve attention in Lis¬ 
bon and its environs are, the new 
Church, erected by the late Queen— 
the Quays—the Aqueduct of Alcan¬ 
tara: which consists of thirty-five 
arches: the largest being 249 feet 
in width, and 332 in height. This 
magnificent structure, built of white 
marble. Mas erected by John V.,— 
the Church and Convent of Belem, 
where the Sovereigns of Portugal are 
buried—(Belem exhibits a kind of 
Gothic arabesque architecture, un¬ 
known in other parts of Europe)— 
the Convent of Brancanas, which 
contains a picture of the blessed 
Virgin finely executed— the Cork 
Convent on the summit of Cape S. 
Roche—and Cintra, which con¬ 
tains a good Inn, and exhibits ruins 
of a Moorish Palace. 

Cintra is deemed the best summer- 
residence in the environs of Lisbon; 
but during winter and spring it3 ex¬ 
cessive humidity renders it unwhole¬ 
some f. The Penka verde at Cintra 
is usually visited by Travellers. 

Lisbon possesses excellent water, 
good beef, fish, vegetables, fruit, and 
asses’ milk ; but eligible lodgings 
are scarce and dear; and a lady or 
gentleman can seldom board with a 
Portuguese family under seven shil- 
lings, English money, per day, lodg¬ 
ing not inclusive. 

Fire-wood likewise is dear at Lis¬ 
bon. 

The Garden belonging to the Con¬ 
vent of Necessitades, situated at the 

* When Jun&t commanded at Lisbon, 
this alto-rilievo, together with most of the 
church-plate in the city, was packed up, for 
the purpose of being conveyed to France : 
but, owing to the suddenness and rapidity 
of his retreat, this valuable plunder was left 
behind. 


[Ch. IX. 

foot of Buenos-Aires, affords an 
agreeable promenade; and the pub¬ 
lic amusements of this city are, the 
Italian opera, the Portuguese theatre, 
bull fights, and assemblies at the 
houses of the English merchants. 

Among the principal inns are, 
Barnwell's English Hotel — Owens's 
Hotel — O' Keif’s Hotel — L' Hotel 
Piemontaise — and La Calcada de 
Estrella. 

PRICE OF DRAUGHT HORSES, 

Draught-horses, or mules, in Por¬ 
tugal, are charged at eight testoons 
a pair, per league : the common 
mode of travelling is en voiturier; 
and a calash, containing two places, 
and drawn by two mules, may 
usually be hired for about fifteen 
francs a day, all expenses included. 

Travellers going from Lisbon to 
any other part of Portugal, should 
solicit, from the chief-magistrate of 
the quarter in which they lodge, a 
passport containing the names of the 
Travellers, the number of their 
horses, mules, and attendants; to¬ 
gether with a permission to carry 
fire-arms. 

Persons going to Spain must ap¬ 
ply for a passport from the Spanish 
Minister at Lisbon ; and this last- 
named passport, if presented to 
Spanish custom-house officers, and 
accompanied by a fee, prevents any 
examination of baggage. 

ROUTE FROM LISBON TO OPORTO. 

1 st day Alveria and Castenheda —About 
mid-way there is a feiry over the 
Tagus. The road lies between 
hedges of aloes and olives. 

2 d day Oita and Tagarro —A sandy plain, 
abounding with Indian ligs. 

3d day tenia —These Ventas are inns, 
established by order of govern¬ 
ment, at the distance of four or five 
Portuguese miles from each other. 
Government likewise regulates the 

The Chapel of S. Roche is reported to 
have cost the Portuguese nation a million 
of crusades. 

+ Many persons prefer Bellas to Cintra, 
because it is more quiet, and less liable to 
fogs, than the last-named place. 


PORTUGAL—OPORTO, $c. 425 


Ch. IX.] 

charges at these inns, by a tariff', 
which is always exposed to public 
view. 

4th day Alcobaga. 

5th day Leyria — Travellers may stop, 
during this day’s journey, at the 
Convent of Butalha, which has a 
fine Gothic church, with a beautiful 
Tower. 

The road is good, and the country 
adorned with plantations of olives, 
and forests of cork-trees. 

6th day Pombal and Pondes —Travellers 
should visit the Moorish Castle on 
a hill near Pombal. 

7th day Coimbra and Almaliada —Coim¬ 
bra contains 13,000 inhabitants, and 
a University. Here are a Roman 
Bridge and Aqueduct, almost 
entire. 

8th day A ibergar ia, Antonio, Vent a, and 
Villanova —Travellers, during this 
day’s journey, pass two rivers, 
either on bridges or in a ferry. 

9th day—Oporto—This city, the largest in 
Portugal, Lisbon excepted, is wa¬ 
tered by the Douro, anciently the 
Darius, on which river gondolas, 
like those at Venice, are much 
used. Oporto is supposed to con¬ 
tain 30,000 inhabitants; and has 
long been famed for its wines, of 
which it is said to export yearly 
twenty thousand pipes. The Quays 
here are magnificent. 

Time employed in travelling from 
Oporto to Almeida, 65 hours—from 
Oporto to Salamanca, 27 hours— 
from Salamanca to Valladolid, 36 
hours—from Valladolid to Madrid, 
by Segovia and the Escurial, 50 
hours. 

Segovia is well worth seeing, on 
account of its Aqueduct, a noble 
monument of antiquity, and in per¬ 
fect preservation. Some authors 
suppose it was erected during the 
reign of Trajan; but the Spaniards 
gravely assert, that it was the work 
of Hercules. 

The Cathedral at Segovia is one 
of the handsomest edifices of its 
kind in Spain ; and the Alcazar, or 
Castle, stands beautifully. 

ROUTE FROM LISBON TO MADRID. 
Leagues. 

3 Aldea-Gallega —To thisplace Travellers 
are conveyed on the Tagus, in a 
large boat; but it is not prudent to 
set out if the river be much agi¬ 
tated. 


5 Canna 

3 Ventas-Nuevas — The road crosses a 

brook. 

4 Montemornovo 

3 Aruyolos — The road crosses another 
brook. 

3 Venta del Duque —From Aldea-Gal¬ 
lega to this place the road is toler¬ 
ably good. 

3 Estremos 

3 Aleravizas 

4 Elvas —This is the last town of Portu¬ 

gal. Here travellers are waited 
upon by the Custom-house Officers, 
and desired to declare what articles 
of commerce, and what money 
they have with them, after having 
done which they receive an Al- 
bura. 

One mile from Elvas the road tra¬ 
verses a rivulet, which divides 
Portugal from Spain. 

3 Badojos— -This town, the capital of 
Estremadura, is entered, on the 
Portuguese side, by a bridge thrown 
over the Guadiana,anciently called 
the Annas. It is a place of high 
antiquity. 

Here Travellers are liable to have 
their baggage examined. The road 
from kstremos hither is, generally 
speaking, bad. 

3 Talavera delArrojo 

2 Eobon 

2 A rrorogo de San-Servan. 

2 Merida —This town was built by the 

Romans, and is entered on the 
Portuguese side by a bridge of 
sixty one arches, thrown over the 
Guadiana. Here are several An¬ 
tiquities, among which is an eques¬ 
trian Statue. 

4 Venta del Desblado 

3 Meujadas 

3 Puerta de Santa Crux 

3 Trujillo—The birth-place of Pizarro. 

4 Jarajzejo —One hour distant from Ja- 

rajzejo Travellers are obliged to de¬ 
scend from their carriages, while 
the latter are conveyed, by the as¬ 
sistance of oxen, over a steep and 
rugged road; and after passing the 
river del Monte, on a bridge, car¬ 
riages are drawn by oxen up a hill, 
which belongs to the chain called 
Sierra de Guadelupe. 

Jarajzejo contains considerable ves¬ 
tiges of Moorish architecture. 

4 Casus del Puerto 

2 Almaraz —Half an hour distant from 
Almaraz is a Bridge thrown over 
the Tagus, beyond which river the 
road ascends a hill, thence becom¬ 
ing good, and continuing so the 
whole way to Madrid. 

2 Navalmorul —The first town of New 
Castile, 

4 Calcada de Or opes a 

4 Venta 

4 Talavera de la Reyna 


426 APPENDIX. [Ch. IX. 


2 Sotococliinos 

3 Bravo 

3 Maqueda 

2 Venta del Gallo 

3 Santa-Cruz del Retamar 

2 Valmajado 

3 Naval-carnero 

2 Mostoles —Here stands a Church, the 

inside of which is completely 
covered with gilding. 

3 Madrid — On approaching this city 

- carriages are either driven through 

J03 the Man^anares, or over it, by 

means of the fine B ridge of Segovia. 


The country between Badajoz and 
Madrid is,, generally speaking, un¬ 
cultivated, unless it be in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of towns and villages; 
and exhibits, to the left, a long 
chain of mountains. 

It is practicable so to arrange this 
journey that Travellers may go by 
S. Ildefonso, the Escurial, or Aran- 
juez. 


CHAPTER X. 

SPAIN. 

Money of Spain—Price of Post-horses, &c. —Articles particularly requisite for Travellers 
in Spain—Route from Bayonne to Madrid—Saragossa—Valencia—Valladolid—Burgos 
—Population of Madrid—Objects best worth notice there—Literary Establishments 
—Promenades—Public amusements—Manufactures—Inns—Environs—Job-carriages— 
Gates and Streets—Route from Perpignan to Barcelona—Climate of Barcelona— 
Population—Objects best worth notice—Inns—Promenades—Route from Barcelona to 
Saragossa—from Madrid to Granada—Alhambra, and other objects best worth notice 
in the last-named city—Promenades—Climate—Route from Madrid to Malaga—De¬ 
scription of that city—Route from Madrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz; together 
with a description of the three last-named cities. 


VALUE OF THE MOST CURRENT 
SPANISH MONEY IN FRENCH 


FRANCS. 

Franca 

Doblon . S3 63 

Pistole . 20 91 

Half-Pistole . 10 45 

Piastre . 5 43 

Real de k ocho. 4 35 

Escudo vellon. 2 71 

Real de a qnattre. 2 17 

Peseta Mexicana ........ 1 35 


PRICE OF POST-HORSES, 8fC. 

The common charge, per post, is 
from ten to twelve reals for every 
draught-horse; a post being about 
two Spanish leagues, or three hours, 
in length. A Postillion cannot legally 
demand more than two reals per post; 
but expects a peseta, beside a dinner, 
or extra-money to provide one. For 
a carriage furnished by a Post-mas¬ 
ter, the price is four reals per post. 

On entering and on quitting Ma¬ 
drid, and every other place where the 
King resides, Travellers pay a post¬ 


royal ; which is double the price of 
a common post. 

The post on great roads is well 
served ; and the horses, when speed 
is compatible with safety, go re¬ 
markably quick : but the ro.ids in 
Spain cannot, generally speaking, be 
called good; though, throughout the 
w hole Signory of Biscay, and in some 
districts near Madrid, they are ex¬ 
cellent. 

The custom of taking journevs in 
a Cocke de Colleras with six mules, 
or a Calesa with two, still predo¬ 
minates; but, for one person, a 
more economical way of travelling is 
to accompany the Ordinario , or to 
ride on a Borneo, attended by a 
muleteer on foot. 

Voiturins usually charge for a ca¬ 
lesa with two mules and their driver, 
the keep of mules and muleteer not 
inclusive, about fifteen francs a day: 
or for each mule, provender in¬ 
clusive, two piastres a day. 











427 


SPAIN—VALENCIA, Sfc. 


Ch.X.] 

The common day’s journey of a 
Voiturier is about eight Spanish 
leagues; and each of these leagues 
contains 3400 geometrical paces. 

It is impossible to travel comfort¬ 
ably in Spain without a Servant who 
understands the language ; because 
the Inns are so destitute of eatables, 
that Travellers are compelled to pur¬ 
chase their provisions in the large 
towns through which they pass; and 
likewise obliged, generally speaking, 
to have them cooked by their own 
servant: a pot for boiling meat, with 
a cover and padlock to prevent theft, 
is therefore requisite; and travelling 
beds, in this country, are particularly 
needful. 

Travellers should avoid taking sn uff, 
new muslins, or new printed cottons, 
amongst their baggage as these ar¬ 
ticles are contraband. 

Servants should have fire-arms *. 

ROUTE FROM BAYONNE TO MA¬ 
DRID. 

Miniundo —A beautiful entrance to the 
Pyrenees; and the further the 

» road advances the more pictu¬ 
resque is the scenery. 

S. Jean Pit de Port —Near a spring 
of remarkably fine water, between 
this town and Roncesvalles, is the 
spot which divides Fiance from 
Spain. 

Roncesvalles —The road from Bay¬ 
onne hither being dangerous for 
carriages, it is advisable either to 
go on mules, or to take the road 
by Ostariz, Annoa, Maya, Rev- 
rueta, Lanz, and Ostix, to Pam¬ 
plona. 

The village of Roncesvalles is sup¬ 
posed to be the 3pot where Char¬ 
lemagne’s army was defeated, 
when the famous Roland lost his 
life. 

14 Pamplona—The Inn at Pamplona is 
in the square. This town was an¬ 
ciently called Pomyelo. 

Otriz 

2| Jaffala— A good road, which con¬ 
tinues to Portacillo. 

4 Marailla 

3 Valtierra 

4 Cintronigo 

* Persons who wish to travel expedi¬ 
tiously in Spain should ride on post horses. 
Several saddle-horses are kept at every 
post-house. 

t Murviedro, erected on the site of the 


5 Agreda —Here the baggage of Travel¬ 
lers is visited and plumbed by the 
Custom house Officers. 

3£ Hinojosa 

4 Zamayon 

Almazan —Here the road traverses 
the Douro on a stone bridge, near 
which there is a beautiful Pro¬ 
menade. 

3.J Adradas 

5 Lodares —The road lies over a moun¬ 

tain whose summit exhibits a large 
and well-cultivated plain. 

2| Bujarrabal 
2g Torremocha 
3 Almadrones 
2j Grajanejos 
3 Torija 

3 Guadalaxara 
3j Venta de Meco 

Torrejon de Ardoz —Here the road 
crosses the Xarama on a bridge. 

4 Madrid. 

82| leagues. 

Many Travellers prefer going by 
Saragossa and Valencia; or by Val¬ 
ladolid, Burgos, and Vittoria. 

Saragossa, the capital of Arragon, 
is seated on the Ebro, formerly 
called the Iberus ; and contains a 
Cathedral, and a Moorish Tower, 
which merit notice. 

Valencia, supposed to contain 
above 70,000 inhabitants, is de¬ 
lightfully situated in the most fertile 
part of Spain. Its Cathedral, once a 
Mosque, is adorned with fine paint¬ 
ings. The College of Corpus Christi 
contains a celebrated picture; and 
several of the Convents and Monas¬ 
teries are adorned with good paint¬ 
ings. The Church of S. Nicholas — 
the University — and the public 
Libraries, merit notice. 

This city is lighted with handsome 
lamps, patrolled by watchmen, and 
encompassed with high walls, nearly 
circular. Its climate is so warm as 
to be oppressive during the day, even 
in winter t. 

Valladolid, anciently called Pintia, 
contains a University; and, in the 
Dominican Church of S. Paul, two 
celebrated pictures, by Cardenas. 

ancient Saguntum, which was destroyed 
by Hannibal, is about four leagues distant 
from Valencia; and exhibits several ves¬ 
tiges of antiquity. 


428 


APPENDIX. 


Burgos, the ancient capital of Old 
Castile, is built partly on the acclivity 
of a mountain, and partly on the 
banks of the Arlan^on. Its Cathe¬ 
dral, one of the tinest Gothic struc¬ 
tures in Europe, and some other 
Churches, merit notice. 

Madrid, anciently denominated 
Mantua, is supposed to contain up¬ 
ward of 150,000 inhabitants. It has 
fifteen Gates, all composed of gra¬ 
nite, and most of them handsome: 
its streets are clean, spacious, well- 
paved, and well lighted; and the 
entrance to this city, through the 
gate of Alcala, is strikingly mag¬ 
nificent. 

Among the objects which espe¬ 
cially deserve attention are, the 
Royal Residence, called the new 
Palace, which is sumptuously fur¬ 
nished, and adorned with fine pic¬ 
tures— the Royal Cabinet of Natural 
History *—the Churches of S. Isa¬ 
bella — S. Paschalis — S. Isidoro — S. 
Francesco de Sales —and S. Martino 
■—the Convent of Las Descalzas reales, 
which contains a fine collection of 
pictures— the Church of Las Salesas 
—the Royal Convent of S. Philip, in 
point of architecture one of the 
finest buildings at Madrid— the Do- 
menican Church —and the Bridge, 
thrown over the Mancanares. 

This city is enriched with a Uni¬ 
versity, a royal College, called Es- 
trulios reales, an Academy of Arts, 
and other literary establishments. 

The principal Promenades are, 
the Prado—a fine Street, called Al¬ 
cala—the Gardens of the Casa del 
Campo—and the banks of the Man- 
^anares. 

The Spanish Theatre, the Bull¬ 
fights, the Tertullia, and the Refresco 
(the two last being card-assemblies, 
balls, concerts, or goiitesj, are the 
principal public amusements. 

The Tapestry Manufacture; the 

* This Cabinet contains ancient Peruvian 
pottery, very like that of Egypt. 

+ The books in this Library are placed 
with the edges of the leaves outward; a 
singular method introduced into the Escurial 


[Ch. X. 

China Manufacture at Buen-Retiro; 
and the Glass Manufacture at S. II- 
defonso, merit notice. 

Several of the Inns at Madrid are 
good; and one of the best is the 
Croix de Malte, in the Alcala. 

Provisions are cheap; and the 
common table-wines are those of 
La Mancha and Valdepenas. 

There are no Hackney coaches in 
this city; but job-carriages may be 
hired by the day, for eight or nine 
French livres. 

The objects best worth notice in 
the environs of Madrid are, the 
Buen-Retiro, which is embellished 
with an equestrian Statue of Philip 
IV, by Pietro Tacca— the Palace of 
Aranjues, and its Gardens— the Pa¬ 
lace of S. Ildefonso, its Paintings, 
Sculpture, and Water-works—and 
the Escurial, which is situated about 
twenty English miles from Madrid, 
at the foot of the Guadarama moun¬ 
tains. This Palace, erected by Philip 
II, contains an immense collection 
of Pictures, some of which are 
classed among the finest existing; it 
is likewise rich in sculpture, gems, 
and precious marbles; and among 
its buildings comprises a Church, 
splendidly ornamented; and a Ce¬ 
metery, called the Pantheon, where 
the Sovereigns of Spain, beginning 
with Charles V, are buried. The 
Escurial is likewise furnished with 
a Library particularly rich in He¬ 
brew, Arabic, and Greek manu¬ 
scripts f. 

The road from Madrid hither is 
excellent, and the country beautiful. 

ROUTE FROM PERPIGNAN TO BAR¬ 
CELONA. 

2 Hollo —Near Fort Bellegarcle is the 

Barrier between France and Spain; 
where every Traveller must pro- 
duce a passport. 

This road exhibits a fine view of the 
Pyrenees. 

3 Jonquera 

by a learned Spaniard of the sixteenth cen¬ 
tury. 

The Casa Reale, situated in the Park of 
the Escurial, contains fine pictures. 


429 


Ch. X.] SPAIN—BARCELONA, Sfc. 


3 Flgueras —A sandy soil,and cork-trees. 

Figueras is a fortified town. 

3 Bascara —The road traverses the lofty 
mountain of Cuessa-Regia, the en¬ 
virons of which are beautiful. 

3 Gerona—Anciently Gerunda. The 

Cathedral, and the Arabian 
Batlix, merit notice. 

4 Mallorquinas 

2j Hostalrich —Here Travellers ford a 
river which, after floods, is dan¬ 
gerous. 

2 San-Seloni 

3 La Boca 

2£ Moncade —The road skirts the bank9 
of the sea. 

2 Barcelona—The hedges near this city 
- consist of aloes. 

30 leagues. 

Barcelona, anciently denominated 
Barcino, from Ilamilcar Barcas, by 
whom it was built, is a fine city, 
charmingly situated, in a delicious 
climate, near the mouth of the 
Llobregat; and supposed to contain 
111,000 inhabitants: its Port and 
Mole are handsome. The ruins of 
the Roman town , and the Temple of 
Hercules—the Arabian Baths—the 
Cathedral, a light and elegant Gothic 
edifice— the Church of Sa. Maria — 
the Palace of the Captain- General — 
the Exchange —and the Academy des 
Beaux Arts, merit notice. The Ho¬ 
tels in this city are good- the streets 
well lighted at night; and the Pro¬ 
menades pleasant; especially those 
called the Rembla, and the Espla¬ 
nade. The Capuchin -Garden, at 
Sarria, is worth seeing; and the 
Villas near Barcelona are numerous, 
and well situated. 

ROUTE FROM BARCELONA TO SA¬ 
RAGOSSA. 

3 Martorell — Hannibal’s Bridge, and 

triumphal Arch, render this vil¬ 
lage remarkable: the present 
Bridge, however, was not erected 
by Hannibal; but built with the 
materials of that which he erected. 
A fine and populous country. 

2 San-Felix 

3 Pier a —Close to Piera, and isolated in 

the centre of a plain, rises Mont¬ 
serrat, so called from the word 
Nerrus, a saw; though its peaks 
are more like a multitude of sugar- 
loaves, placed on rocks; which, in¬ 
cluding these peaks, are above 


three thousand feet in height. This 
extraordinarily-shaped mountain 
displays fine grottoes of stalactites : 
and, in its middle region, stands a 
Convent, where every stranger 
meets with a hospitable reception ; 
and where Pilgrims, if poor, whe¬ 
ther men or women, are fed for 
three successive days, whenever 
they visit the Convent; and if 
medical assistance be required, 
they receive it gratuitously. The 
Hermitages of Montserrat, twelve 
in number, merit notice ; as do the 
almost endless variety of ever¬ 
greens, and deciduous plants with 
which the mountain abounds. 

Near the town of Cardona is a lofty 
hill, consisting of one block of 
Gemmae Salt, with which candle¬ 
sticks, boxes, $c., are made: and 
this substance is transparent, like 
rock-crystal. 

3 Igualada —The road traverses the river 
Noya three times. The Inn at 
Igualada is a good one. 

3 Sant a-Maria 

3 Cervera —This town is situated in a 

charming valley, and contains a 
University. 

2 Tarraga —An excellent Inn. The price 

of provisions, and of the Ruido 
de Casa is fixed at every inn by 
the Arancel, or tariff. 

4 Mollerusa 

4 Lerida — Anciently called Jlerda. — 

Near this place Caesar was defeated 
by one of Pompey’s generals. 
There are several Antiquities at 
Lerida. 

5 Fraga 

4 Candasnos 

3 Bujaralos 

3 Vent a de S. Luca 

3 Aguilar —Here the road crosses the 
river Cinca. A fine country, well 
cultivated. Road good. 

3 La Puebla 

3 Saragossa—This town was called by the 

- Romans Ctesar-Augusta. 

51 leagues. 

ROUTE FROM MADRID TO GRA¬ 
NADA. 

8 Aranjues —Viz. 2i leagues to Los 
Angeles, 3 to Espartinas, , 2j to 
Aranjuez, whence to Madrid the 
road is excellent. 

2 Ocarina— Windmills announce to the 
Traveller that he is entering the 
piovince of La Mancha, where 
the customs and manners described 
by Cervantes still prevail; and 
where every peasant talks of Don 
Quixote and Sancho. At the f'enta 
de Quesuda is a well,distinguished 
by the name of the Knight.*— '1 hits 


This well communicates with the subterraneous river Guadiana 



430 APPENDIX. [Ch. X. 


is genius immortalized, even by 
the lowest of the people! 

3^ La Guard/a —The Church here con¬ 
tains celebrated pictures by Angelo 
NarcR. 

2 Tembleque 
2 Canada de la Higuera 

2 Mudridejos 

3 Puerto de Lapiche 

2 Villalta —Here Travellers either drive 
through the Gijuela, or cross it on 
a bridge. 

2j Venta de Quesada 
2| Manganares 
2 N. S. de la Consolacion 
2 Valdepenas —The wines of Man^a- 
nares and Yaldepenas are much 
liked. 

2 Santa Cruz — The plain of La Mancha 
begins near Tembleque, at La Con¬ 
ception de Almaradiel, the first of 
the new villages of the Sierra Mo- 
rena. 

The houses, surrounded with cypress- 
trees, which are seen on this 
road, belong to German families 
who came hither to people the 
country. 

2 A Imaradiel 

3 Las Correderas 
3 Las Carolinas 
2 Guarraman 

2 Baylen 

2j Casa del Rey 
2j And ajar 

5 Jaen — Here Travellers are conveyed 
across the Guadalquivir, (anciently 
the Bcetis), in a ferry. 

3 Cambil 

3 Alcala la real —This place abounds 

with citrons, figs, and oranges; 
and its Abbey is the most amply 
endowed of any one in Spain. 

4 Pinos Puente —Here the road enters 

the celebrated Vega, or plain of 
Granada; and crosses the small 
river Cubillas. 

4 Granada. 

71J leagues. 

Granada, not long; since, was sup¬ 
posed to contain 80,000 inhabitants; 
but now the population is estimated 
at only 50,000. The Cathedral here, 
a large and venerable pile, is em¬ 
bellished with tine paintings, by 
Don Pedro d’Athanasia, Spagnc- 
letto, Risuenno, and John of Seville. 
The Car tux a—Los Angelos — S. Do¬ 
mingo —and the Capuchin Convent, 
possess good pictures; and the Col¬ 
lection of Moorish Antiquities merits 
notice. 

The Paseo is a pleasant Prome¬ 
nade; so likewise is that on the 


banks of the Xenil; and the climate 
is temperate and healthy. 

Alhambra, justly the pride of 
Granada, stands on a lofty eminence 
between the rivers Douro and Xenil, 
and derives its name from the red 
colour of the materials with which 
it is built; the word Alhambra, sig¬ 
nifying the red house. 

This ancient Palace of the Moor¬ 
ish Kings, in point of workmanship, 
perhaps the most beautiful structure 
extant, is so well described by Town¬ 
send, that I cannot do better than 
copy his account of it. 

“ The ascent to this edifice (unique 
in its style of architecture), is 
through a shady and well-watered 
grove of elms, abounding with night¬ 
ingales. You enter first into an ob¬ 
long court of 150 feet by 90, with a 
basin of water in the midst, of 100 
feet in length, encompassed by a 
flower-border. At each end is 
a colonnade. Hence you pass 
into the court of the lions, so 
called because the fountain in the 
middle is supported by lions. It is 
adorned with a colonnade of an hun¬ 
dred and forty marble pillars. The 
royal bed-chamber has two alcoves 
adorned with columns, and a foun¬ 
tain between them in the middle of 
the room; adjoining are two hot- 
baths. The great hall is about 40 
feet square, and 60 in height, with 
eight windows and two doors, all in 
deep recesses. Between this and 
the oblong court is a gallery of 90 
feet by 16. All these lower apart¬ 
ments have fountains, and are paved 
either with tiles or marble, in 
checkers. The idea of the ceilings 
is evidently taken from stalactites, or 
drop-stones, found in the roofs of 
natural caverns. The ornaments of 
the friezes are arabesque, and per¬ 
fectly accord with the Arabic in¬ 
scriptions, which are here suited to 
the purpose for which each apart¬ 
ment was designed. Thus, for in¬ 
stance, over the entrance to the hall 
of judgment, is the following sen¬ 
tence; Enter, fear not ; seek Justice, 


Ch. X.] 

and Justice thou shah find. A hand¬ 
some staircase leads to a suite of 
apartments intended for the winter.” 

Adjoining to Alhambra is a Pa¬ 
lace begun by Charles V., but never 
finished; and near it another Moor¬ 
ish Palace, called Xenalarlife, the 
entrance to which is adorned by two 
cypress-trees, reputed to have flou¬ 
rished during five ages; they are 
immensely large. 

ROUTE FROM MADRID TO MALAGA. 

52 ifAndujar — See the preceding route. 

3 Porcuna 
5 JBajena 

4 Lucena 
Alameda 

3£ Antequera 

3 Vent a de Cantarrajan 

4 Malaga. 

78J leagues 

Malaga, anciently called Malaca , 
and supposed to contain above 45,000 
inhabitants, is adorned with a hand¬ 
some Cathedral, the interior of 
which is beautifully finished; the 
high altar and pulpit are of fine 
marble; and the choir is ornamented 
in a style of peculiar elegance. 

The white wine of the mountains 
near Malaga, and the red wine, 
called vino tinto, are much esteemed; 
and the fruits are excellent. 

Some vestiges of antiquities may 
be discovered here. 

ROUTE FROM MADRID TO CORDO¬ 
VA, SEVILLE, AND CADIZ. 

52£ Andujar —See the route from Madrid 
to Granada. 

Aldea del Rio 
3j Carpio 

2 3 Cortijode Casa Blanca 
2J Cordova. 

64j leagues 

Cordova, anciently denominated 
Corduba, and reputed to contain 
near 30,000 inhabitants, was built 
by the Romans, and subsequently 
became a Moorish capital. It stands 
in a charming situation, and is wa¬ 
tered by the Guadalquivir. A con¬ 
siderable part of the Roman Walls 
still remain ; and the Cathedral, 


43l 

once a mosque, is a splendid, though 
a fantastic edifice. 

According to Strabo, Corduba was 
founded by Marcellus, and the first 
Roman Colony established in Spain; 
it boasts of having given birth to 
Seneca and Lucan. 

3 Cortijo de Mango-Negro 

3 Car lot la 

4 Erija 

3 Louisiana 

3£ Vent a de la Portuguesa 
2 | Carmona 
3 Jarazone la Vieja 
3 Seville. 

89t leagues. 

Seville, anciently denominated 
Hispalis, is supposed to contain 
above 80,000 inhabitants; and pos¬ 
sesses an excellent inn, called The 
Posada de la Baviere. The city 
stands on the banks of the Guadal¬ 
quivir, in a rich and beautiful plain: 
its walls, like those of several Spa¬ 
nish towns, are circular, and seem 
of Moorish construction. Some of 
its gates are handsome; and its 
Cathedral, a magnificent edifice, is 
embellished with a Tower deemed 
a chef d'oeuvre of architecture. In 
the Cathedral are some very fine 
pictures; that called The Gamba, 
and painted by Luis de Vargas, espe¬ 
cially merits notice ; as do those of 
the admirable Murillo, who was 
born at Seville. The Organ is a 
very fine one ; and the episcopal Li¬ 
brary consists of 20,000 volumes. 
The Hospicio de la Caridad contains 
the master-piece of Murillo; and 
the Capuchin Church is likewise en¬ 
riched with several of his works. 
The Church of Santa Crus contains 
a fine picture, by Don Pedro de 
Campanna, of the Descent from the 
Cross; the Franciscan Convent is 
embellished with paintings by 
Murillo; as are many otherConvents, 
Churches, and private houses. The 
Jesuits’ College, now the Inquisition, 
is a handsome structure; the Alca- 
sar, or ancient Moorish Palace, and 
its Garden, deserve notice; as do 
the Exchange, the University, the 


SPAIN—SEVILLE, 8fc, 


4§2 


APPENDIX. 


Cannon-Foundery, the Aqueduct , and 
the Alameda , or public walk. 

One league distant from this city, 
at the ancient Itcdica , are ruins of 
an Amphitheatre. 

2 J Dos Hermanas 

3 Venta viejn de Bran 

4 Caber as 

3i Cortijos de Romaniana 

3j Xeres de la Front era —This town is 
supposed to stand on the site of 
the ancient Asti-Regia; near which 
spot Roderic, last Monarch of the 
Visigoths, lost the battle that put a 
period to their dominion in Spain. 

2j Puerto de Santa Maria 

3 La Isla de Leon 

3 Cadiz. 

113| leagues. 

Cadiz, anciently called Gades, was 
founded by the Phoenicians, and af¬ 
terward became a Roman colony. It 
contains 80,000 inhabitants; is the 
most flourishing commercial city of 
Spain, and possesses a safe and very 
capacious harbour. Among the ob¬ 
jects best worth notice at Cadiz are, 
the new Custom-house—the great 


[Ch. X. 

Hospital — the Capuchin - Church , 
adorned with an Ecce Homo , by 
Murillo— the old, and the new Ca¬ 
thedral—the Theatre—the Mall —• 
and the Ramparts. 

The public amusements consist of 
bull-fights, French, Italian, and Spa¬ 
nish theatrical exhibitions; assem¬ 
blies, balls, concerts, and parties of 
pleasure to Chiclona, a small town 
four leagues from Cadiz. 

The best wines in this neighbour¬ 
hood are Xeres, and Pacaretti. 

Travellers who visit Cadiz should 
take especial care to be supplied 
with water from the adjacent village, 
called Puerto de Santa Maria. 

The churches and convents of 
Spain are peculiarly rich in plate 
and precious stones; but these trea¬ 
sures, however splendidly they may 
decorate an altar, do not deserve to 
be named among the objects most 
worthy of a Traveller’s attention : 
persons who have sufficient leisure, 
however, would do well to examine 
them. 


CHAPTER XI. 


KINGDOM OF TIIE NETHERLANDS. 


PROVINCE OF HOLLAND. 


Money—Post liorses—Treckschuyts, Sgc. —Expense of travelling post from Naarden to 
Amsterdam—Expense of travelling in a Treckschuyt, <!yc-—Dutch Inns—Route from 
Amsterdam to Cleves and Cologne —and from Cleve3 to the Hague, Rotterdam, and 
Helvoetsluys—Prices, per Packet, from Helvoetsluys to Harwich—Days appointed for 
sailing—Route from Amsterdam to Munster—from Amsterdam to Emden—from Am¬ 
sterdam to Utrecht, Bois-le-Duc, and Maestricht—from Amsterdam to Leyden, the 
Hague, and Rotterdam—from Nimeguen to Rotterdam and Helvoetsluys—from Nime- 
gueu to Bois-Ie-Dnc and Breda—from Bois-le-Duc to Anvers—from Bergen op-Zoom 
to Anvers—from Amsterdam to Hamburgh—and from Hamburgh to Amsterdam, by 
Groningen and Leuwarden—Population of Amsterdam—Objects best worth notice— 
Public Amusements—Carriages—Inns—Villages of Broek and Saardam—Dock-yard 
belonging to the latter—Price of a boat to go and return from Amsterdam to Saardam 
— Voy age from Amsterdam to Utrecht. 


MONEY. 

1. s. d. 

A stiver, in English money about 0 0 1 


A gilder, or florin, 20 stivers..0 1 9 

A rix-dollar, 2J florins.0 4 0 

A dry-gilder, CO stivers ,,,,,,,,,,0 5 4 


l. s. d. 

A silver ducatoon, 3 florins, 3stivers 0 5 8 
A gold ducat, 20 florins.1 16 0 

In Belgium the greater part of the 
currency is French money. 







Ch. XI.] HOLLAND—POST-HORSES—TRECKSCHUYTS, Sfc. 433 


POST-HORSES, TRECKSCHUYTS, SfC. 

Persons who resolve to travel post 
through Holland, should endeavour 
to procure from the first post-master 
who furnishes them with horses, a 
paper called Un billet tie paste, which 
enables them to proceed without un¬ 
necessary delays, and precludes dis¬ 
putes relative to the number of their 
horses. 

A Traveller who procures this bil¬ 
let, pays to the post-master who gives 
it the whole expense of his horses, 
from the place whence they set out 
to their journey’s end; and presents 
a few stivers to his secretary. The 
usual price charged by post-masters 
for every draught-horse, is one florin 
an hour*. 

EXPENSE OF TRAVELLING POST 
FROM NAARDEN TO AMSTERDAM, 
(TWO DUTCH MILES IN DISTANCE,) 
WITH THREE HORSES. 

Florins. Stivers. 

Horses . 1‘2 0 

Master of the post-carriages 0 6 

Greasing wheels 0 G 

Driver . 1 0 

Tax for the roads .1 0 

J 14 12 

Travelling post in Holland is al¬ 
ways expensive, and often disagree¬ 
able ; for many of the roads are 
bad: neither ought it indeed to 
be attempted during spring and au¬ 
tumn, on account of the rains and 
fogs, which render almost every 
road so wet and muddy, as to be 
dangerous; and this circumstance, 
united to the exorbitant sums usually 
charged for baggage, makes Dutch 
Diligences uneligible; therefore, the 
general mode of travelling is in 
Treckschuyts, or covered barges. 
These vessels contain two apart¬ 
ments, the after-one, called the roof, 
being neatly fitted up, and appro¬ 
priated to the best company; the 
other, to servants, Sfc. The roof 
holds from eight to twelve persons, 
according to the size ot the vessel; 


the inferior apartment from forty to 
fhty. A Treckschuyt moves pre¬ 
cisely at the rate of four English 
miles an hour; and is drawn by one 
horse, on whose back rides a lad, 
called the Conductor. This lad blows 
a horn as the signal of departure; 
and uses the same instrument when¬ 
ever he wishes to have a draw-bridge 
lifted up; and whenever he descries 
another vessel. Places in the roof 
should be secured a day before they 
are wanted. Places in the inferior 
apartment cost about six stivers 
each, per mile ; and places in the 
roof are something dearer. A roof- 
passenger is allowed to carry one 
hundred pounds weight of baggage, 
cost free. 

The Conductor expects from every 
Passenger about one stiver. 

Persons who wish to travel fru¬ 
gally and pleasantly in Holland, 
should not encumberthemselveswith 
much baggage: for Dutch porters 
are so exorbitant in their charges, 
and at the same time so notoriously 
addicted to theft, that it is necessary 
to make a bargain with them respect¬ 
ing price, before trunks are removed, 
even from one Treckschuyt to an¬ 
other; and equally necessary never 
to lose sight of a trunk while it 
continues in their possession. The 
cheapest way of transporting heavy 
baggage from one town to another 
is by means of vessels called Packet- 
boats. 

Dutch Inns are, generally speak¬ 
ing, clean and good : but it is requi¬ 
site for persons who intend to reside 
long at any of them, to make an 
agreement with the innkeeper for 
the price of apartments, Sfc. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO 
CLEVES AND COLOGNE. 

Naarden —Travellers who come from 
Germauy find the first Treck¬ 
schuyts here. Naarden stands on 
the Zuider-Zee. 

Amersfort —This town is famous for 
its manufactures of dimity and 
bombasins. 


* Two leagues of Holland make one post, and two miles of Holland (about 
nine English miles) equally make one post. 







APPENDIX 


434 

2 Arnheim.-*-Theramparts here are pretty. 

2 Nimeguen — The Maison de Ville, 
where the peace of Nimeguen was 
concluded in 1C78, merits notice ; 
as does the old Chdteau of Fal- 
kenhof, built by Charlemagne. 

2 ClSves— The Castle here—the Hotel 
de Ville —the lofty Totver, from 
the summit of which above twenty- 
four towns are discoverable—and 
the Promenades, all merit notice, 
li Calcar 
1J Xanten 
if Rheinbergen 
1 Hochstras 

1 Undingen 

2 Neus 

2 Dormagen 

lj Cologne— See, under Germany, the 
route from Vienna, through Ra- 

- tisbon and Brussels, to Osteud. 

23 miles of Holland. 

ROUTE FROM CLEVES TO THE 
HAGUE, ROTTERDAM, AND 1IEL- 
VOETSLUYS. 

2 Nimeguen 
2 Wageningen 

5 Utrecht—This is a handsome town; 
and the ruins of its Cathedral 
merit notice; as does its Univer¬ 
sity, (though inferior to that of 
Leyden;) and Ms botanic Garden. 
Utrecht is supposed to contain 
above 30,000 inhabitants. 

4 Alphen 

2 Leyden—The population of Leyden is 
estimated at 48,000. Its streets are 
spacious, clean, and well paved; its 
buildings elegant; and its public in¬ 
stitutions useful. It stands on the 
ancient bed of the Rhine, and the 
street which contains the Stadt- 
house is of an extraordinary length. 
The Stadt-house , and the Hos¬ 
pital, in this street, are fine build¬ 
ings; and the Halls of the former 
exhibit good pictures; the most 
celebrated of which, (by Lucas 
Van Leyden,) represents the last 
Judgment. Another picture, inte 
resting on account of its subject, ’ 
represents the famishing Inhabi¬ 
tants of Leyden, after they had 
compelled the Spaniards to raise 
the siege of the town, eagerly de¬ 
vouring the relief which was 
brought to them by their country¬ 
men. 

* Haerlem is only fifteen English miles 
distant from Leyden; and well worth visit¬ 
ing, on account of the Organ placed in its 
principal Church, and said to be the finest 
instrument of the kind existing. Travellers 
may hear it at any time, by paying a ducat 
to the Organist, and a couple of guilders to 
the Bellows-blowers. 

The length of the largest pips is thirty. 


[Ch. XI. 

The University of Leyden, found¬ 
ed in 1575, is the most ancient in 
Holland ; and has had among its 
professors and scholars some of 
the most learned men in Europe. 
It contains many objects of interest. 
The botanic Garden merits no¬ 
tice ; and the public Library is 
famed for its collection of oriental 
manuscripts. In the centre of 
Leyden is a Tumulus , said to 
have been erected by Hengist, the 
Saxon Prince : it commands an 
extensive view *. 

2 The Hague —This town, or to speak 

more correctly, this village,is sup¬ 
posed to contain near 40,000 inha¬ 
bitants. The Voorhout is a fine 
street, adorned with several ele¬ 
gant buildings, and the Vyver- 
burgh is a handsome oblong square. 
The Hague is paved with light-co¬ 
loured bricks, which are kept re¬ 
markably clean. 

Public entertainments here are re¬ 
duced to the Dutch Theatre, 
opened only twice a week ; and 
the price for admittance to the 
boxes is something more than half 
an English crown. 

About one English mile from the 
Hague, in The House in the 
Wood, is the national Cabinet of 
Pictures; which contains a ce¬ 
lebrated candle-light pieee, by 
Schalken, the subject being a por¬ 
trait of William III., of England. 

Two English miles from the Hague 
is Scheveling, where the Stadt- 
liolder embarked when he fled 
from his country. The road be¬ 
tween the Hague and this village 
is perfectly straight, about twenty 
paces broad, and shaded by 
beeches, limes, and oaks, of so 
extraordinary a magnitude, that 
they form to appearance an impe¬ 
netrable forest. 

3 Rotterdam.—This city, reputed to con¬ 

tain 50,000 inhabitants, stands near 
the confluence of the Rotte Avith 
the Maes. 

The principal streets are intersected 
by canals, deep enough to receive 
vessels of three hundred tons bur¬ 
den ; and the Boom-Quay is a fine 
street: but the buildings at Rot¬ 
terdam are completely Dutch, and 
consequently inelegant. 

The Market place is adorned with 

two feet, and its diameter sixteen inches; 
the Organ has sixty stops, four separations, 
two shakes, two couplings, and twelve 
pair of bellows. 

Haerlem disputes with Mentz and Stras- 
burgh the honour of having invented the 
Art of Printing; and its Bleacheries are 
famed for the whiteness they give to liuen. 
The city is neat and well built. 


4$5 


Ch. XI.] HOLLAND—HELVOETSLUYS, 8fc. 


a bronze statue of Erasmus, who 
was born here. 

Concerts are the favourite amuse¬ 
ments in this city. The Play-house 
is small, but neat. 

4 Helvoetsluys —At this Port Travellers 

- frequently embark for England. 

24 miles. 

PRICES, PER POST-OFFICE PACKET, 
FROM HARWICH TO HELVOET¬ 
SLUYS; AND, VICE VERSA. 

1* St d. 


Cabin, or whole Passenger.. 2 14 0 

Half-passenger .. 1 7 6 

Four-wheeled carriage, the charge 
for shipping, it being paid by 
the owner .... 6 6 0 


After-cabin, if a Family take it 
to themselves, from twenty-five to 
thirty guineas, according to the num¬ 
ber of beds required. 

These rates were established in 
1815 ; but probably they may have 
been recently lowered, like those to 
and from Cuxhaven. 

Provisions for the Passengers, 
wine and spirits excepted, are pro¬ 
vided by the commander of the 
vessel, at his own expense. 

Harwich-packets sail to Helvoet¬ 
sluys every Wednesday and Satur¬ 
day, about two o’clock in the after¬ 
noon, weather permitting; and re¬ 
turn twice a week, if possible. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO 
MUNSTER. 

7 Arnheim 
2 Doesburgh 
2 Lanuweert 
2 Bockhold 
2 Coe sjeld 

4 Borken 

2 Munster—See, under Germany, the 
route from Frankfort on the Mein 

- through Cassel to Munster. 

21 miles. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO 
EMDEN. 

5 Amersfort 
1J Worthluisen 

2 Loo—The Castle here merits notice. 

3 Zwolle— The large Church, in the 

Market-place, is worth seeing. 

4 Hardenberg 
2 Puylen 

2 Sudlar 

3 Schwetz 

2 Hieuschanz 

2 Eniden --The Maison de 


Arsenal—the new Church—the 
great Church— and the Tomb of 

- Count John II., merit notice. 

26^ miles. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO 
UTRECHT, BOIS-LE-DUC, AND 
MAESTRICHT. 

3 Utrecht 

6 Bois-le-Duc— The Maison de Ville is 
a miniature-copy of the Stadt- 
liouse at Amsterdam. 

3 Heydenhoren 
2 Achclen 
1J Bree 
Asch 

2 Maestriclit—This is a strong and flou¬ 

rishing town, seated on the Maes, 
and embellished with handsome 
public edifices, and pleasant Pro¬ 
menades : it also contains a 

- Theatre. 

18 miles. 

A barge goes daily from Maestricht 
to Liege, and accomplishes the 
voyage in six hours. The price of 
each seat in this vessel is twelve 
stivers. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO LEY¬ 
DEN, THE HAGUE, AND ROTTER¬ 
DAM. 

3 Leyden 

2 The Hague —Hence to Rotterdam the 

country is beautiful. 

3 Rotterdam. 

8 miles. 

ROUTE FROM NIMEGUEN TO ROT¬ 
TERDAM AND HELVOETSLUYS. 

3| Thuil 

3 Gorinchem —The Maes, (here called 

the Merwe,) abounds with salmon. 
The’. Cqstle of Lovenstein, not 
far hence, was the prison of Hugo 
Grotius. 

Kruympen 
If Rotterdam 

4 Helvoetsluys 

15J miles. 

ROUTE FROM NIMEGUEN TO BOIS 
LE-DUC AND BREDA. 

2 Grave 

3 Bois-le-Duc 
lj Druynen 

2 Breda— The Palace here is a fine 
-building, well fortified. 

miles. 

ROUTE FROM BOIS-LE-DUC TO 
ANVERS. 

3 Eydnhoven 
8 Tournhout 


2 F2 





436 APPENDIX. [Ch. XI. 


4 Oostmalle 
4 Anvers. 

19 miles. 

ROUTE FROM BERGEN-OP-ZOOM TO 
ANVERS. 

4 Puten 
4 Anvers. 

8 miles. 

ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO 
HAMBURGH. 

11} Zwolle 
4 Hardenberg 
4 Nienkaus 
3 Lingen 

2 Hoselunen—The Castle of Clemens - 
uerth , in this neighbourhood, me¬ 
rits notice. 

2 Loeningen 

2 Kloppenburgh 

3 Wilds hausen 
1 Delmenhorst 
1 Brtme 

1 Obern-Neuland 

1 Fischerhude 

3 Kloster-Seven -y The Convention of 

1757 was concluded here. 

4 Buxtehude 
1J Kranz 

£ Blankensee — The situation of this 
village is picturesque. 

2 Hamburgh—It is necessary to cross 

the Elbe in order to reach Ham- 

-- burgh. 

46} miles. 

ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO AM¬ 
STERDAM, THROUGH GRONINGEN 
AND LEUWARDEN. 

4} Hornburgh 
4 } Bremervoerde 

3 Elsfleth—Here the road crosses the 

Weser. 

7 Barnhorst 
1} Ape 

4 Detron 

1 Nieuschans 
1} Winschoten 

1} Groningen— The Market-place here, 
called the Bree-Markt , is magni¬ 
ficent ; and the Gothic Tower of 
S. Martin’s Church is the loftiest 
building in Holland. The Library 
belonging to the University merits 
notice; and the Plantage is a 
pleasant Promenade. 

A variety of petrifactions are found 
in the vicinity of this town. 

2 Slrohbusch 
t Vockum 

2 Leuwarden 
1 Francker 

1 Harlingen— This is a handsome town. 
14 Amsterdam—In order to retch tUis 


city, it is necessary to cross the 

-- Zuider-Zee. 

52} miles. v 

Amsterdam, situated at the con¬ 
fluence of the Amstel with a rivulet 
called the Wye, is a fortified town, 
about nine miles in circumference, 
and supposed to contain 217,000 
inhabitants. The Stadt-house , a 
justly celebrated edifice, is embel¬ 
lished on the outside with statues, 
among which is a fine colossal Atlas. 
The Hall where criminals receive 
sentence, and the great Hall, together 
with its bronze Gates, merit notice. 
The Burgomasters Apartment con¬ 
tains a fine picture, by Ferdinand 
Bol, representing Fabricius in the 
camp of Pyrrhus; and another of 
Curius at his frugal repast. The 
Council-chamber is adorned with 
paintings; one of which, by Vander- 
lielst, represents the entertainment 
given by the Burgomasters of Am¬ 
sterdam to the Ambassadors ofSpain, 
in consequence of the peace of 
Munster. Another picture, by Van- 
dyck, represents an assembly of the 
States. The Stadt-house stands upon 
piles, in number said to be 13,659. 
'The new Church near the Stadt- 
house, contains Monuments to the 
memory of several distinguished 
Dutchmen; and the old Church , 
called Oudenkirk , is enriched with 
an Organ little inferior, either in 
size or excellence, to that at Ilaer- 
lem. This Church likewise con¬ 
tains fine painted glass, and some 
monuments. Among other public 
buildings, worth notice, are; the 
India House — the West-Indian 
House—the Exchange—the Hank — 
the town-Arsenals—the Admiralty , 
and its Arsenal— and the Orphan- 
Asylum. The Synagogue of the Por¬ 
tuguese Jews is a fine one: and the 
Jews have a Theatre in this city, 
and represent Hebrew plays : there 
is likewise a Dutch Theatre; and 
also a French one; but both are ill- 
attended; Concerts being the fa¬ 
vourite public amusement. The 
streets of Amsterdam are, generally 
speaking, intersected by canals, and 


Ch. XII.] DENMARK—rRICE OP POST-HORSES. 


adorned with trees. The carriages 
commonly used are fastened to a 
sledge, and drawn by one horse; 
and these vehicles may be hired for 
half the price of those which run 
upon wheels. Two of the princi¬ 
pal inns are, The arms of Amsterdam, 
and The Doelen. 

Near this city stand the pleasant 
Villages of Broek and Saardam; 
and in the Dock-yard belonging to 
the latter, Peter the Great of Russia 
worked as a common carpenter. 
The cottage wherein he lived, while 


43T 

thus employed, is still shown to Tra¬ 
vellers. 

A boat, to go and return from 
Amsterdam to Saardam, usually costs 
from six to nine florins. 

The voyage from Amsterdam to 
Utrecht occupies eight hours; and 
is the most pleasing, in point of sce¬ 
nery, that can be undertaken in Hol¬ 
land. 

The Dykes of this country, con¬ 
structed to preserve it from inunda¬ 
tions, are stupendous works, which 
highly merit notice. 


CHAPTER XII. 


DENMARK. 

Money of Denmark—Price of Post-horses, 4c.—Day-book—Passports, 4c.—Route from 
Hamburgh by sea to Helsingoer, and thence by land to Copenhagen—Route by land to 
Lubeck, or Kiel, and thence by sea to Copenhagen—Expense attendant upon crossing 
the Great Belt—ditto upon crossing the Little Belt—Copenhagen—Harbour—Popula¬ 
tion—Naval Arsenal—other objects best worth notice—Inn—Environs—Route from 
Copenhagen to Hamburgh—Route from Copenhagen to Gothenborg. 


MONEY OF DENMARK. 

It St (It 

A skilling, in Eng. money about 0 0 Oj 


1C skillings, called a mark.0 0 9 

A crown,4 marks. 0 3 0 

A rix-dollar, 6 marks.0 4 6 

A ducat, 11 marks.0 8 3 

A hatt-ducat, 14 marks. 0 10 6 


A mark is an imaginary coin. 
The Danes usually keep accounts in 
rix-dollars. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES, $C. 

The customary price of post- 
horses in Denmark is sixteen skil¬ 
lings a horse, per German mile. 

Every postillion is entitled to four 
skillings per German mile; and for 
a carriage, furnished by a post¬ 
master, the price is two skillings per 
German mile. 

In the Isle of Funen the price is 
only ten skillings a horse, per Ger¬ 
man mile, during summer; but, in 
winter, something more. 


In Zeeland the price is fifteen skil¬ 
lings a horse, per German mile. 

In addition to the price of post- 
horses, two skillings and a half per 
mile are paid at every barrier. 

To every English carriage, con¬ 
taining four places, post-masters 
have a right to put six horses; and 
to every English carriage, contain¬ 
ing two places, four horses: but 
three persons going in an open post- 
chariot of the country, and having 
only one trunk, are not compelled to 
take more than one pair of horses. 

Persons who travel post in Den¬ 
mark, and in the Duchy of Hol¬ 
stein, receive, at every post-house, a 
billet, containing the hour, and even 
the moment of their departure from 
that station. Postillions are bound 
to drive at the rate of one German 
mile an hour ; and dare not stop, 
nor even smoke, without permission 
from the Traveller; who, onchang- 








APPENDIX. 


438 


[Ch. XII. 


ing horses, gives his billet to the 
post-master; and at the same time 
mentions whether the postillions 
have behaved well or ill; and, in 
the latter case, they are severely 
punished. 

At every post-house there is a 
day-book, in which the Traveller is 
required to write his name, the hour 
of his arrival, and that of his de¬ 
parture; making, on the margin, 
his observations, and complaints, if 
he think himself in any respect ag¬ 
grieved. 

No inn-keeper can allow a Tra¬ 
veller to leave his house before 
this useful regulation has been com¬ 
plied with; and the day-books of 
every inn are examined once a month 
by Government. 

Passports are always requisite in 
the Danish Islands : they are pre¬ 
sented to the officer on guard, at the 
gate of every city; and, after hav¬ 
ing been inspected and signed, they 
are returned to their owners by a 
soldier, who solicits a trifling gra¬ 
tuity for his trouble. 

Persons who like a sea voyage 
may embark at Hamburgh, in a 
vessel bound to the Baltic, and land 
at Helsingoer; where these vessels 
cast anchor; and where carriages 
returning to Copenhagen, which is 
only five German miles distant, may 
be met with constantly. 

Another way of accomplishing 
this journey is to travel by land either 
to Lubeck, or Kiel; and then pro¬ 
ceed by sea to Copenhagen. From 
Hamburgh to Kiel is twelve German 
miles; from Hamburgh to Lubeck 
eight; and the voyage from the lat¬ 
ter port to Copenhagen is shorter 
than from Kiel: but at Lubeck Tra¬ 
vellers pay for every trunk a tax of 
one rix-dollar; and at Kiel consi¬ 
derably less. 

EXPENSE ATTENDANT UPON PASS¬ 
ING TIIE GREAT BELT. 

Marks. Skilling's. 

Embarkation of a carriage .. 1 8 


Passage of ditto .21 0 

Taxes, a 2 


Marks. Skillings. 
Drink-money for the men who 

embark a carriage . 1 2 

Fees to soldiers who have the 

charge of passports.0 13 

Lauding a carriage, indepen¬ 
dent of drawing it from the 
water side to the post-house 0 12 

Drink-money for the boatmen 1 0 

The length of this passage is 
about four German miles. 


EXPENSE ATTENDANT UPON PASS¬ 
ING THE LITTLE BELT. 

Marks. 

Embarkation and passage of a carriage 9 
Disembarkation of ditto.. 3 

The length of this passage, be¬ 
tween Snoghoe and Middlefart, is 
only half a German mile: but be¬ 
tween Aroe and Assens it is four 
times that distance. 

No Foreigner is allowed to enter 
Copenhagen without exhibiting a 
passport; and, on quitting this city, 
it is necessary to procure, from the 
High-President, another passport, 
which costs three marks. 

Copenhagen, the metropolis of 
Denmark, and called in the Danish 
language, Kiobenhavn, stands on 
the Island of Zeeland; and is de¬ 
fended by four royal castles, and 
embellished with a fine harbour, 
formed by a large Canal flowing 
through the city, and capable of re¬ 
ceiving five hundred ships; though 
it admits only one at a time. 

Copenhagen has suffered much 
from the ravages of war; but, some 
years since, it contained above 90,000 
inhabitants, and a peculiarly fine 
naval Arsenal, which still merits 
notice. Among other objects best 
worth observation in this city are, 
the University, founded in 1745, and 
richly endowed— the Library be¬ 
longing to the University— the Cabi¬ 
net of Natural History—the Royal 
Museum—the royal Library , con¬ 
taining 120,000 volumes— the Church 
dedicated to the Saviour, and that 
dedicated to the blessed Virgin—the 
Seminary for naval Cadets—the Aca¬ 
demy of Painting and Sculpture—the 
Barracks—the equestrian Statue of 
Christian V. — the Exchange — the 







439 


DENMARK—COPENHAGEN, $fc. 


Ch. XII.] 

ruins of the CastleofChristianburgh — 
the Obelisk erected in 1793, to com¬ 
memorate the deliverance of the 
peasants from the chains of feudal 
slavery; which was effected by the 
interest of Frederick vi., when 
heir-apparent to the throne— the 
Statue of Frederick V. — and the 
Theatre *. 

The grand Hotel is a good inn. 

About twenty English miles from 
Copenhagen is Fredericsburgh, the 
most splendid royal Residence in 
Denmark: and near Helsingoer, is 
a royal Villa , supposed to stand 
upon the ground formerly occupied 
by the palace of Hamlet’s father: 
and in an adjoining Garden is shown 
the spot where, according to tradi¬ 
tion, that Prince was poisoned. 

Jaegerspreiss, about six German 
miles from Copenhagen, also belongs 
to the royal Family; and stands in a 
Park, which contains several an¬ 
cient Tombs of northern Heroes; 
together with the Monuments of 
Tycho Brahe and Bernsstorf. 

Marielust, a royal Villa about 
five German miles from Copenhagen, 
commands a remarkably fine view; 
and the road to Eenroom likewise 
exhibits beautiful scenery. 

ROUTE FROM COPENHAGEN TO 
HAMBURGH. 

German 

miles. 

4 Roeskilde— The Cathedral here con¬ 
tains the tombs of the Danish 
Kings: and the water in this town 
is excellent. 

4 Ringstedt — Between Ringstedt and 
Slangense is the celebrated College 
of Sora. 

The principal Church at Ringstedt 
contains the tomb of Canute, and 
is likewise the burial place of 
other Danish Princes. 

* Several of the finest works of the Che¬ 
valier Thorwaldsen are destined to enrich 
the royal Collection of Sculpture at Co- 


German 

Miles. 

4 Slangense 

2 Korsocr— Here Travellers embark upon 
the Great Belt. 

4 Nyborg 

4 Odensee—This is the capital o£ the 

Isle of Funen. 

5 Assens—Here Travellers cross the 

Little Belt. 

2 Ardcsund 

2 Hadersleben 
4j Apenrade 

4| Flensborg —A safe port, capable of 
admitting very large vessels. 

4| Sleswick—This is the capital of the 
Duchy of Sleswick. 

3|- Re7idsborg —Here the Eyder marks 
the boundary between Germany 
and Denmark. 

3 Remmel 
3 ltzcho 

3J Elmshorn 
2 ^ Pinneberg 
3| Hamburgh 



ROUTE FROM COPENHAGEN TO 
GOTHENBURG. 

German 

Miles. 

6 Helsbigborg — Between Copenhagen 
and Helsingborg Travellers cross 
the Sound,and enter Sweden. 

Swedish 

Milesf. 

l Fleminge 
1J Engel holm 

1| Marguretha-Torp —Hence to Karup 
the road is very hilly. 

1 Karup 

l£ Lahohn —Here is a fine fall of the 
Loga-Strom. 

2j Halms tat 
lj Quibille 
li Sloeinge 

1 .T Falkenberg 
1J Murup 

if War berg —This is a safe Port. 

2 Bacha 
Alsa 

1| Kingsbaka 
1 Kjurra 
§ Gothenborg. 

6 German miles. 

21f Swedish miles. 

penhasren. 

t One mile of Sweden is about one mile 
and a half of Germany. 



440 


CHAPTER XIII. 


SWEDEN AND NORWAY. 

Money—Price of Post-horses, S$c, —Route from Stralsund to Stockholm, through Carls- 
crona—Stockholm—Population—Harbour—Streets—Royal Residence—other objects 
best worth notice—Promenades—Public Amusements—Inns—Environs—New Upsala 
—Spot where the Kings of Sweden in ancient times were elected—Iron Mines—Route 
from Stockholm to Upsala—ditto from Stockholm to Gothenborg—Description of that 
town—Prices per Packet from Gothenborg to Harwich—Route from Gothenborg to 
Christiania and Bergen. 


MONEY OF SWEDEN. 

The common currency of this 
country is paper; of which there are 
two kinds, namely Bank-paper, and 
Government - paper, distinguished 
from each other by the word Banco 
being added to the first, and Rix- 
geld to the second. They are of very 
different value ; Government-paper 
having suffered a depreciation of 
above thirty per cent; while Bank- 
paper continues at par. Calcula¬ 
tions are generally made in Govern¬ 
ment-paper ; so that payments either 
in Bank-paper, or copper, go for 
one-third more than their denomina¬ 
tion. 

Gold and silver coins can seldom, 
if ever, be met with; but the fol¬ 
lowing copper coins are in common 
use. 

Rundstychs . . 12 of which make 
1 skilling. 

Stivers .... 4 of which make 
1 skilling. 

Skillings ... 8 of which make 
1 dollar. 

Forty-eight skillings, or six dol¬ 
lars, make one rix-dollar, in value 
from two to three English shillings, 
according to the exchange. 

The Bank notes are of the follow¬ 
ing kinds: 

8 Skillings—12 skillings—24 skil¬ 
lings— 1 rix-dollar—2 rix-dollars— 
8 rix-dollars—and so on, up to 30 
rix-dollars. 

The Government notes are of the 
following kinds : 


16 skillings—32 skillings—1 rix- 
dollar—2 rix-dollars. 

Accounts are usually kept in rix- 
dollars. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES, SfC. 

The charge for every post-horse, 
per Swedish mile (rather more than 
six English miles and a half), is, at 
Stockholm, sixteen skillings Banco 
—in several other towns, twelve 
skillings Banco—but in some of the 
country villages only eight skillings 
Banco. 

Every postillion is entitled to one 
skilling and a half per station; and 
with four skillings they are well sa¬ 
tisfied. 

The hostler at each station is en¬ 
titled to one skilling. 

To heavy carriages post-masters 
frequently put six or seven horses. 

Foreigners who take their own 
carriage to Sweden, should likewise 
take harness; and also be especially 
careful to chain one of their wheels 
when going down hill. 

Foreigners, on arriving in Sweden, 
should provide themselves with a 
passport from the Governor of the 
Province they happen first to enter. 
They should likewise solicit from 
the Governor of the firsttown through 
which they pass, an order for post- 
horses : it is also requisite, in many 
parts of tliis country, to send forward 
a person, called a FGrebud, to be¬ 
speak the number of horses required 
by the Traveller at every post. The 
expense of employing a Forebud, is 


441 


Ch. XIII.] SWEDEN AND NORWAY—STRALSUND, 8fc. 


one silver dollar per station ; though 
it horses thus ordered wait for the 
Traveller beyond the time appointed 
by him, the post-master has a right 
to one silver dollar an hour for ihis 
detention. 

Every post-house contains a day¬ 
book, in which Travellers are re¬ 
quired to enter their name and rank, 
the time of their arrival, the place 
they came from, and whither they 
are going; the number of horses 
they want, their complaints, if they 
have any to prefer against the post¬ 
master, and also the time of their 
departure. This day-book is in¬ 
spected every month by Government. 

The roads throughout Sweden are 
excellent; and no tolls are de¬ 
manded, unless it be on crossing 
bridges; neither do robbers infest 
the highways: but postillions, during 
winter, are apt, in order to save 
ground, to drive over lakes not 
thoroughly frozen; and, during 
spring, for the same reason, to ven¬ 
ture upon sheets of ice beginning 
to thaw; in consequence of which 
practice so many lives have been 
lost, that Travellers should never 
permit their drivers to quit the great 
road. 

Foreigners who take their own 
carriage across the Sound pay high 
for its passage: but travelling car¬ 
riages on sale, may frequently be 
met with at I lelsingborgandGothen- 
borg; and open carriages of the 
country (a sort of cart, hung upon 
springs, and sufficiently large to con¬ 
tain two persons, and one trunk), 
may always be procured for eight or 
ten crowns. 

The rate of posting in Sweden is 
from seven to ten English miles an 
hour. 

Travellers should take provisions 
with them from city to city; because 
the eatables found in small towns 
and villages are not good. 

ROUTE FROM STRALSUND THROUGH 

CARLSCRONA TO STOCKHOLM. 

Persons who design crossing the 


Channel to Ystad should endeavour 
to announce their intention, either 
on a Saturday or a Monday morn¬ 
ing, at the post-office at Stralsund. 
The public packet-boat sails from the 
last-mentioned town toward night, 
and arrives at Ystad next morning. 

The prices per pubfic Packet are— 


Crowns. Skillings. 
For every cabin passenger, 
one trunk, and one port- 


manteau inclusive. 

2 

36 

For every servant. 

2 

12 

For every horse.. 

2 

12 

And for every four-wheeled 




carriage ..4 or 5. 


A private yacht may be hired for 
seventy rix-dollars, drink-money, 
and other trifling expenses not in¬ 
clusive. 

Stralsund contains near 11,000 in¬ 
habitants : its Cathedral merits no¬ 
tice ; as do the Church of S. Mary, 
and its Organ; the Town and College 
Libraries; and the Cabinet of Na¬ 
tural History. 

16 Ystad— This town is small, but well 
built; and the German inn is the 
best. In the vicinity of Ystad is 
the Castle of Marswinsholm. 

| Herrenstad 
1 | Tranas 
l| Andrarum 
l£ JJegeberga 
Nebbelof 

1 Christianstad—This is a strong fortress, 
where Travellers should take care 
to have their passports counter¬ 
signed. 

The gates of the town are shut every 
night at ten o’clock. The trade 
carried on here is considerable; 
and among the objects best worth 
notice are, the Arsenal — the Go- 
ver hot's Residence—the princi¬ 
pal Church —and the Bridge, 

1 Fielding 
\\ Gadenry 
Nor jo 
Assarum 
1 Trensum 
U Moby 
]i- Ronneby 
l.J, Skillinge 

1^ Carlscrona—This town, supposed to 
contain 15,000 inhabitants, pos¬ 
sesses a Harbour, capable of re¬ 
ceiving an hundred ships of the 
line; and is celebrated for its co¬ 
vered Docks ; and likewise for an 
artificial rise and fall of water, 
constructed to remedy the want of 
the ebb and flow of the tide. 






442 

| Rubbetorp 
li Killeryd 
U- Far 
l| Emmeboda 
li Ericksmalu 
l| Kalla 
1^ Lenhofta 
Nybbeled 
l| Stokdorp 
2 Stwettand 

lj Bransmala 
]i Ecksioe—The Church here merits no¬ 
tice ; and between this place and 
Berga are three Stones, inscribed 
with Runic characters. 
lZ Bone, or Berga 
2 Sathella 
2g Hester 
lj Dala 
| Moelby 
if Bankeberg 

1 Linkoping—This town contains a ce¬ 

lebrated College , and a line Ca¬ 
thedral. 
l| Kumla 
lk Brink 

li Norkceping—This is one of the hand¬ 
somest and one of the most com¬ 
mercial towns in Sweden: it con¬ 
tains 5)000 inhabitants. 

3 Qby —xhe lofty marble mountains of 
Kolmorden begin here. 

If Krokek 

If JVreta—At Staffsiee, near Wreta, there 
is a rich iron-mine, 

if Jaeder. 

1| Rikceping — This is a large and hand¬ 
some commercial town. 

2 j Stvardbro 
2 Obu 

If Pilkrog 

If Soedertellje — From Soedertellje to 
Stockholm, Travellers have the 
option of going by water. 

2 Fithie 

If Stockholm—Two roads, the one eighty 
Swedish miles and one-eighth, the 
other eighty-one and seven-eighths, 
in distance, lead from Stralsuud 

- through Jonkoping to Stockholm. 

84 Swedish miles. > 

The site of Stockholm, the me¬ 
tropolis of Sweden, is singular, ro¬ 
mantic, and beautiful. 

This city is built upon seven small 
rocky islands of the Baltic, beside 
two peninsulas: its edifices stand 
upon piles; and the number of its 
inhabitants is supposed to be 76,000. 

The harbour, though difficult of 
access, is extensive and convenient ; 
and of such a depth, that ships of 


[Ch. XIII. 

the largest burthen can approach 
the Quay, which is lined with capa¬ 
cious warehouses. The streets rise 
above one another in an amphithe- 
atrical shape, and are crowned by 
the regal Palace , a large, quadran¬ 
gular, and magnificent structure. 
A long Bridge, composed of granite, 
forms the approach to this Palace ; 
opposite to which (at the other ex¬ 
tremity of the bridge,) is a Square, 
adorned with an equestrian statue of 
Gustavus Adolphus, and containing 
two handsome edifices, namely, the 
Palace of the Princess Sophia, and 
the Italian Opera-house. The fur¬ 
niture of the regal Palace is superb,* 
and among the pictures, several of 
which merit notice, is a celebrated 
Combat of Animals. The Statues 
were collected by Gustavus in. $ 
many of them are antique ; and the 
Endymion belonging to this collec¬ 
tion is particularly admired. 

The Church of S. Nicholas con¬ 
tains a good picture of the last Judg¬ 
ment, and a statue of S. George— 
the Church of Riddarholm contains 
the Tombs of the Swedish Kings ; 
and on that of Charles xii. are a 
Club, and a lion’s skin—characteris¬ 
tic ornaments! Opposite to the Ho¬ 
tel de Ville is the statue of Gustavus 
Vasa; and, on the Quay, that of 
Gustavus in. The Marson ties Nobles, 
and the Arsenal are worth seeing ; 
and the prospect from the Tower of 
S. Catharine is particularly beau¬ 
tiful. 

Stockholm contains a royal Aca¬ 
demy of Sciences ; a royal Academy 
of Painting and Sculpture; a royal 
Cabinet of Natural History; and a 
royal Cabinet of Medals; all of 
which merit notice: as do the roval 

* v 

Library, the Library belonging to 
the Academy of Sciences, and the 
Studio of Sergei, a celebrated Sculp¬ 
tor. 

The principal promenades are, the 
King’s Garden ; the royal Hop-Gar¬ 
den ; the Park, and the Bridge of 
Boats. The public amusements con¬ 
sist of Italian operas, Swedish plays, 


APPENDIX. 


Ch. XIII.] SWEDEN AND NORWAY-STOCKHOLM—UPSALA. 443 


concerts, and balls; the two last 
being given by Clubs, called the 
Amaranth, the Narcissus, 8fc. 

Among the principal inns are, The 
English Tavern ; the Crown; and 
the Cave of Bacchus. The English 
Tavern furnishes Travellers with 
breakfast and dinner; the other inns 
provide breakfast only* : there is, 
however, a Club, called the Sels- 
kapet, which furnishes a dinner daily 
to as many of the members as may 
choose to partake of it. The dinner 
costs about twenty-pence English 
a head; liquors, ice, and coffee, not 
included; and every member has 
power to introduce a Stranger for 
one montht. 

In the neighbourhood of this city 
is the royal Palace of Ulricsdal, 
which contains the Library of Queen 
Ulrica Eleonora ; a Cabinet of Na¬ 
tural History,arranged by Linneeus; 
some paintings, and a statue of King 
Frederick. 

Drottningholm, a very large edi¬ 
fice, finely situated on the banks of 
the Moelar, is another royal Resi¬ 
dence, in the vicinity of Stockholm; 
and contains a Cabinet of Natural 
History, arranged by Linnseus: here 
likewise is a Picture Gallery. 

On the way to Drottningholm 
stands a rock, called The royal 
Hat; and upon which an iron hat is 
now placed in memory of Eric n., 
who, being pursued by enemies, 
jumped off this rock, and thereby 
lost his hat, but saved his life. 

Haga is a small and elegant royal 
Villa, situated very near Stockholm; 
and about forty-five English miles 
from this Metropolis is New Upsala, 
formerly the capital of Sweden, and 
built near, if not actually upon, the 
foundations of Old Upsala, a place 
of high antiquity; and, previous to 

* The price of breakfast at an hotel is 
about two English shillings per head, and 
the price of apartments from ten to fifteen 
English shillings a room per week. 

+ The price paid for washing linen in 
Sweden is exorbitant, and so likewise are 
the wages demanded by travelling servants. 


the introduction of Christianity in 
Sweden, the abode of the high-priest 
of Odin. 

Upsala, so called from the river 
Sala, which runs through it, is a 
well-built town, containing about 
3,500 inhabitants, and the most ce¬ 
lebrated University of northern Eu¬ 
rope, instituted by Steno Sture, in 
1476, and particularly patronised by 
Gustavus Adolphus. Its Library is 
open to the public on Wednesdays 
and Saturdays; and consists of above 
60,000 printed volumes, and about 
1,000 manuscripts; among which is 
the celebrated Codex Argenteus, or 
translation of the Gospels into the 
Gothic language: the leaves are 
stained with a violet colour, the 
letters are capitals, and were all 
originally done in silver, except the 
initial characters, and a few pas¬ 
sages which are done in gold$. 

The Cabinet of Natural History 
and botanic Garden were arranged 
by Linnaeus. 

The Cathedral, begun in the thir¬ 
teenth century, under the direction 
of Bonneville, a Frenchman, is 
deemed one of the handsomest 
churches in Sweden, and particu¬ 
larly deserves attention on account 
of its monuments, ancient and mo¬ 
dern, (among which are those of 
Gustavus Vasa and Linnaeus,) the 
treasures of its Sacristy, and the 
Shrine, wherein rests the mortal 
part of King Eric. 

About seven English miles from 
Upsala is the spot where the Kings 
of this country, in very ancient 
times, were elected: it lies in the 
middle of the plain of Mora; and is 
distinguished by the remains of se¬ 
veral Runic stones; on the largest 
of which, called The Morasten, the 
Sovereigns were enthroned; while 

J Ulphilas, a bishop of the Goths, flou¬ 
rished under the Emperor Valens ; and was 
the first person who translated the Bible 
into the Gothic language: his translation of 
the Gospels is the only part of this work 
now extant. 


444 


APPENDIX. 


their name and the year of their 
election were inscribed upon another 
of these stones. 

Near Upsala is the iron Mine of 
Dannemora, reputed to produce the 
best iron in the world; and upward 
of ninety fathom in depth. 

This mine has been worked for 
near five centuries; and persons 
who wish to examine it descend in a 
bucket to the spot where the miners 
are employed. 

ROUTE FROM STOCKHOLM TO UP¬ 
SALA. 

2 Rotebro 
If Ma'crstadt 
14 A Is ike 
lj Upsala 


7 Swedish miles. 

ROUTE FROM STOCKHOLM TO GO- 
THENBORG. 

14 Barkarby 
l| Tibbie 
2 Gran 
Lisslena 

1 Enkoping—Here are some ruins of 
Convents and Churches. 

1 Nigwarn 

2 Westerns— The Cathedral here and its 

Tower merit attention. 

2 Kolbek 
14 Kiaping 
i Oestuna 

1 Arboga—The Canal of Arboga unites 
the Lakes of Hielmar and Moelar. 
In the environs of Arboga are se¬ 
veral Antiquities,supposed to have 
been the work of very ancient 
northern nations; and a Forest in 
which it is imagined that their re¬ 
ligious ceremonies were performed, 
lj Faelingsbro 
14 Glantshammer 
Orebro 
1 Mosos 

1 Blakstad 

2 Wiby 

2 Bodame 
24 Hosiva 
lij Id'alia 
2 Binneberg 
2 Skiuerf 

1 Skara 

14 Won go. 

2 We dam 

1 5 Sicrfde 
2i A ling.sos 

Ingar id 
l| Lerum 
2 Gothenborg. 


[Ch. XIII. 

This town, supposed to contain 
25,000 inhabitants, is placed in a 
picturesque situation on the banks 
of the Gotha : and among the ob¬ 
jects best worth attention here, are, 
the four Bridges — the Swedish 
Church, and its Cupola— the Ger¬ 
man Church—the Co’lege, and its 
Library— the India House—the little 
Gothic Castle of West-Gotha—the 
Vauxhall—the Promenades of Carls- 
port, and the view from the summit 
of Otterhollen. 

The Hotels at Gothenborg are ex¬ 
pensive, but not good. An apart¬ 
ment, consisting of two rooms only, 
can seldom be obtained under a 
sum equivalent to twenty-five Eng¬ 
lish shillings per week. Breakfast 
costs from eighteen-pence to two 
shillings, English money, per head; 
dinner these hotels do not furnish. 

Harwich-Packets sail to Gothen¬ 
borg every Wednesday and Satur¬ 
day, about two o’clock in the after¬ 
noon, weather permitting; and re¬ 
turn twice a week, if possible. 

1. s. d. 

The price paid by a Cabin-Pas¬ 


senger, unless recently lower¬ 
ed, is... 14 5 6 

The price paid by a Half-Pas¬ 
senger ... 7 13 6 

The price for conveying a four- 

wheeled carriage.... 15 15 0 


ROUTE FROM GOTHENBORG TO 
CHRISTIANIA. 

24 Lahall 
14 Cattleberg 
l| Edet-Luck 
l Forss 
1 Gerdebn 

1 Trolimctta — The magnificent Cota - 
racts and Sluices of Trvlhatttu 
are well worth notice. 

1J Wenersborg 
1 Almas 
1 Baknebo 
1J Herrstadt 
14 Quistrvcm ' 

14 Swarteborg 
1 Batalshed 
14 Stede 
14 Sky all cry d 
\ Wick 
1 Fst 

f Strocmstadt 
14 Stogdal 
l| IIelle 


474 Swedish miles. 







445 


Ch. XIII.] SWEDEN AND NORWAY—CHRISTIANIA, 


\ Fredericshall—Here arc some hand¬ 
some public buildings. 

The spot where Charles XII. ex¬ 
pired is usually visited by Tra¬ 
vellers. 

Guslund 
l| Thune 
Kaelsliuset 
lj M it tinge n 
Soner 
1 Sunbije 
1 Korsegarten 
1 Schut -joryd 
2£ Christiania. 


38j Swedish miles. 

This town, the capital of Norway, 
is situated in a spacious valley, and 
supposed to contain between nine 
and ten thousand inhabitants. 

ROUTE FROM CHRISTIANIA TO 
BERGEN. 

2 Asker —The road leading to Asker is 
excellent; and the situation of that 
place beautiful. 

Here are rocks of a stupendous 
height. 

2 Bragernes 
| Gusmstro 

1;£ Simonstadt 
Sunby 
1J Nordby 
£ Hicmb 
a A sken 
1 Stccholt 
J Hochstedt 

1 Skeen 
Breuig 

H Mg 

a U'allekirch 

3 Krageron 

2 Oster-Riso'Cr 
a Groenesund 
a Moene 


lj Ongestadt 
J Bet ge 
1 IT a age 
1£ Assert 
1 Sousted 
J Nederneskongs 
1 Grimsted 
1 Hogested 
li Mages ted 
l| Birkclund 
1 Obel 

1 l Fee 

2 Christiansund—This is a considerable 

town and Port 
4 Mandal 
H Spangelried 
Pars ha fen 
1 Farsuvd 

1 Bistereid 

2 Hit ter oe 
li Sognedull 

F.ggersund 
lj Sirevog 
l Qualleen 
li lloberstadt 
14 Brune 
| Opevad 
% Ganu 

2^ Stavanger—The Cathedral here is bet¬ 
ter worth notice than any other 
in Norway, that of Drontheim ex¬ 
cepted. 

5 Karsund 
10 Bergen. 


CO Swedish miles. 

This is the largest and most com¬ 
mercial town in Norway, and con¬ 
tains near 20,000 inhabitants: its 
Port is remarkably safe; and its Ca¬ 
thedral—Germ an Ch arch — Castle — 
Hospital —and Magazines , merit no¬ 
tice. Here are public Seminaries; 
and a Society for the encouragement 
of useful enterprises. 





446 


CHAPTER XIV. 

RUSSIA. 

Money of Russia—Price of Post-horses, 4,c.—Podaroshna—other requisites for Travellers 
in Russia—Russian Voiturins—Passports—Route from Riga to Petersburgh—Popula¬ 
tion of Petersburgh—situation of that city—Streets—Admiralty—Admiralty-Quay— 
Isaac-Platz, and equestrian Statue of Peter the Great—Church of S. Isaac—Summer 
Palace—Marble Palace—Winter Palace and its Church—Hermitage—Imperial Collec¬ 
tion of Paintings and Academy of Sciences—Fortress—Church of the Holy Virgin of 
Casan—other Edifices, 4c*> worth notice—Seminaries—Charitable Institutions—Manu¬ 
factories—Cottage inhabited by Peter the Great—Promenade and other public Amuse¬ 
ments—Inns—Cronstadt—Royal Villas—Formalities required before Foreigners can 
quit Peterburgh—Route from Petersburgh to Moscow—account of the latter city— 
Route from Peterburgh to the Frontier of Sweden—Route from Moscow to Grodno— 
Route from Moscow to Riga, and the Frontier of Prussia. 


MONEY OF RUSSIA. 

A copeck . 2 denuscas—in English mo¬ 
ney something less than 
An altin . . 3 copecks 
A grievener . 10 copecks 
A polpotin . 25 copecks 
A poltin . . 50 copecks 
A rouble . 100 copecks 
A Xervonitz 2 roubles. 

A copeck is an imaginary coin. 
Accounts are kept in roubles. 

PRICE OF POST-HORSES, fyc. 

The usual price of post-horses in 
Russia is two copecks a horse per 
verst, (near two-thirds of an English 
mile;) unless it be a verst royal, 
when the price is doubled. 

A Russian postillion cannot de¬ 
mand more than one copeck a horse 
per verst; but Travellers generally 
give five copecks per verst, which is 
deemed liberal payment. 

Post-masters are directed, by the 
last Imperial Ukase, to put three 
horses to every carriage containing 
two or three persons. 

Between Perm and the Govern¬ 
ment of Tobolsk, between that Go¬ 
vernment and Uffa, and likewise on 
the roads beyond these districts, 
only one copeck per verst is paid for 
each horse from October till April; 
and in the Governments of Tobolsk 
and Irkutsk only half a copeck. In 


the territory of Kolhyvano and Vors- 
nesenski the price varies according 
to the season; one copeck being 
charged from April till October, and 
only half that sum from October till 
April. 

No person is allowed to travel post 
without having first obtained an or¬ 
der for post-horses, signed by a Go¬ 
vernor civil or military : and every 
Traveller, on receiving this order, 
which is called a Podaroshna, must 
pay a tax of one copeck per verst 
for every horse mentioned in the 
order. 

The consequence of the low price 
of post-horses is, that Foreigners 
frequently find it difficult to obtain 
them ; but, exclusive of this circum¬ 
stance, the posts are well served. 
The horses go remarkably quick, 
whether harnessed to wheel-car¬ 
riages or sledges; and at every verst 
stands a post, expressing the dis¬ 
tance from the last town to the next. 
During winter it is usual to travel in 
sledges; which proceed with such 
velocity, that a journey of two hun¬ 
dred and fifty versts may be accom¬ 
plished in twenty-four hours. The 
common Russian wheel-carriage, 
for travelling, is called a Kibitka , 
and resembles a cart.- 
Travelling beds and sheets are 


Ch. XIV.] RUSSIA—RIGA—PETERSBURG!!. 


absolutely necessary in this country; 
a bed being a scarce commodity even 
in cities; and always unattainable 
at a country-inn. It is likewise re¬ 
quisite to take provisions from town 
to town. 

Russian Voiturins have fleet 
horses, and a great deal of custom. 
The real, if not the ostensible Voi¬ 
turins are the Post-masters: for 
when their post-horses are not em¬ 
ployed by order of Government, 
they have the privilege of letting 
them out for hire; charging five 
copecks per verst on the great 
roads; but on the cross roads only 
three : and when all the post-horses 
are engaged, they furnish Travellers 
\vith what are called Peasants’ 
horses; charging for these an ad¬ 
vanced price; and demanding much 
more than they take. 

No Foreigner can enter Russia 
without exhibiting a passport signed 
by a Russian Minister : and persons 
who travel in this country, should 
neither leave their carriages un¬ 
locked, nor unguarded; because the 
common people are inclined to 
thieve. 

ROUTE FROM RIGA TO PETERS- 
BURGII. 

Riga, next to Petersburgh, the 
most commercial town of the Rus¬ 
sian Empire, is seated on the Duna; 
and contains within its fortifications 
about 9,000 persons; and in its 
suburbs, about 15,000. Among the 
most remarkable edifices here, are 
The Hotel de Ville—the Exchange — 
the imperial Palace—the Cathedral — 
the Arsenal — S. George’s Hospital — 
S. Peter’s Church — the Russian 
Hospital—the Theatre—and the 
Custom-house . The floating bridge 
thrown over the Duna, and the Gar¬ 
den of Vitinghof, are the principal 
Promenades. 

Riga contains several good private 
lodgings; and two tolerable inns; 
the best of which is, La Ville de 
Fetersbouryi 


447 

Versts. 

11 Neuenmulhun — Government of Riga. 

15 Kilkensfehr —A sandy road. 

Passage of the Aa. 

19 Engelhardshof 

‘21 Hoop —This town is adorned with hand¬ 
some edifices. 

22 Lenzenhof 

18 Wolmar 

18 Stakeln 

21 Gulben 

Passage of the Embach. 

18 Toilitz 

22 Kuikatz 

24 Udder n 

25 Dorp at 

23 Iggafer 

23 Torma 

Lake of Peypus, which divides the Go¬ 
vernments of Riga and Peterburgh. 

25 Nennal —Government of Petersburgh. 

14 Rana-Pungern 

24 Klein-Pungern 

Here Travellers going to Petersburgh 
quit the Lake of Peypus. 

20 Kieu —The Gulf of Finland is disco¬ 

verable here. 

11 Fokenhofs, or Kudley —The road lies 
near the banks of the Gulf. 

IT Waiivara 

22 Narva —Travellers whose passport is 
not sealed by the Emperor, are vi¬ 
sited by the custom-house officers 
here. 

22 Jamburgh 

Passage of the Narotva . 

15 Opolie 

25 Czerkowitz 

22 Kaskowa 

19 Kiepen 

25 Strelna 

17 Petersburgh—Superb villas, and other 
handsome buildings, form the ave- 

-nues to this splendid capital. 

558 versts, about 370 English miles. 

The account given of Petersburgh 
by Mr. James, a modern Traveller, 
is so beautiful, and at the same time 
so accurate, that persons possessed 
of his “ Journal of a Tour in Ger¬ 
many, Sweden, Russia, and Poland,” 
can require no further information 
respecting the metropolis of the 
Russian Empire : but to persons 
who are not fortunate enough to 
possess his work, the following ac¬ 
count may, perhaps, be acceptable. 

Petersburgh is said to contain 
about 200,000 inhabitants, exclusive 
of Cronstadt, a Fortress which de¬ 
fends the entrance of the Neva, and 
is the principal station of the im¬ 
perial navy. Petersburgh stands on 


448 


APPENDIX. 


both sides of the Neva, between the 
Lake Ladoga and the Gulph of Fin¬ 
land; and is built partly upon thecon- 
tinent, and partly upon islands in the 
mouth of the river; the right bank 
exhibiting the old town, and the left 
bank the new one; through which 
pass three Canals, adorned with 
Bridges, and magnificent Quays of 
Granite. The streets of the new 
town are, generally speaking, spa¬ 
cious ; three of them, which meet 
at the admiralty, being of an extra¬ 
ordinary length; and these streets 
are intersected by others embellished 
with handsome esplanades. The 
Admiralty exhibits a facade of more 
than a quarter of an English mile in 
length, adorned by six porticos, and 
surmounted with a gilt dome and 
spire; and at the back of this immense 
structure is the Dock-yard. The 
Admiralty-Quay , erected by Cathe¬ 
rine n., does honour to her memory. 
Among several other objects which 
merit the attention of a Traveller are 
the Isaac-Plats, ornamented with an 
equestrian statue, in bronze, of Peter 
the Great, done by Falconet; and 
representing Peter in the act of 
mounting an eminence, the summit 
of which he has nearly attained : his 
right hand is stretched out, as if he 
were blessing his people; while, 
with the left, he holds the reins. 
An enormous rock of granite which, 
when transported to Petersburgh 
from the morass wherein it was 
found, weighed above fifteen hundred 
tons, forms the pedestal. The statue 
is said to be a striking likeness of 
Peter, and cost the Empress Cathe¬ 
rine ii., by whom it was erected, 
424,610 roubles.— The Church of S. 
Isaac, a magnificent, though a heavy 
edifice of hewn granite— theimperial 
summer Palace (a beautifulspecimen 
of architecture) and its public Garden 
—the marble Palace , built by Cathe- 
rine ii., for Prince Orloff— the im¬ 
perial winter Palace, which contains 
the Jewels of the Crown, and the 
famous diamond purchased by the 


tCh. XIV. 

Empress Catherine of a Greek, to 
whom she paid for it 450,000 roubles, 
and a pension of 100,000 livres- 
tournois for life— the Church belong¬ 
ing to this palace—the Hermitage ; 
which, notwithstanding its name, 
contains magnificent apartments, and 
a summer and winter garden ; the 
first, in the Asiatic style, occupying 
the whole level roof of the edifice, 
the other being a spacious hot¬ 
house, adorned with gravel-walks, 
orange-trees,and parterres of flowers, 
and peopled with birds of various 
climates— the imperial collection of 
Paintings — the imperial Academy 
of Sciences, which contains a Li¬ 
brary rich in Chinese and Scla- 
vonian manuscripts : (here also are 
instructions relative to a code of 
laws, written by the hand of the 
Empress Catherine.) The Academy 
likewise contains a Museum of Na¬ 
tural History particularly rich in 
ores (among which is a mass of na¬ 
tive iron 16561bs. in weight); a col¬ 
lection of Parities, comprising a 
variety of ornaments found in the 
tombs of Siberia, many being of 
massive gold and very elegant work¬ 
manship ; idols brought from Sibe¬ 
ria ; arms and dresses of the various 
inhabitants of the Russian Empire; 
among which are Japanese habits 
and armour, a collection of coins; 
and a waxen figure of Peter the 
Great, the features of which were 
taken from a mould applied to his 
face after death.—The Fortress, or 
Citadel, which is surrounded by 
walls ot brick faced with hewn gra¬ 
nite, and contains the Cathedral of 
S. Peter and S. Paul, a noble edi¬ 
fice adorned with a spire of copper 
gilt. Here are deposited the remains 
of Peter the Great, and most of his 
successors : and in the Fortress is 
preserved a four-oared boat, said 
to have been the origin of the 
Russian navy, and called, by Peter, 
the little Grandsire. The Church 
of the Holy Virgin of Casan; a 
splendid edifice, recently built, and 


449 


RUSSIA, PETERSBURG!!, $e. 


Ch. XIV.] 

supposed to liave cost 15,000,000 
rubles. The architect was a Russian 
slave, by name Woronitchki, and edu¬ 
cated at the imperial Academy— the 
Lutheran Church of S. Anne—the 
Convent and Church of S. Alexander 
Newski — the new Exchange — the 
stables of Suwarrow and Romanzow 
■—the great Theatre—the Quays of 
Newa , Fontaka, and Koika — the 
great Market -the new Rank —and 
the Arsenal, which contains tro¬ 
phies and armour belonging to va¬ 
rious nations. 

The Corps des Cadets, the Couvent. 
des Demoiselles nobles, and the Insti¬ 
tute of Catherine, are excellent semi¬ 
naries for the education of the nobi¬ 
lity, and some children of inferior 
rank. The annual income of the 
first is 30,000/. sterling; and the two 
last are richly endowed ; and 1 ike- 
wise enjoy the advantage of being- 
patronised and constantly inspected 
by the Dowager Empress. 

The general Hospital, the Found¬ 
ling Hospital, the Asylum for the 
Deaf and Dumb, and the Asylum for 
Widows and Orphans, are munifi¬ 
cently endowed, and remarkably 
well conducted charities. 

The imperial cotton Manufactory, 
the imperial plate-glass Manufac¬ 
tory, the imperial tapestry, porcelain, 
and bronze Manufactories, and the 
iron Foundery, merit notice. 

The cottage inhabited by Peter 
the Great, while he constructed the 
Fortress, stands in the old town ; 
and is still shown to Travellers. It 
contains but three rooms, only 
eight feet in height, and the largest 
not more than fiiteen leet square. A 
boat, made by the Czar himself, is 
kept near this cottage. 

The most frequented Promenade 
at Petersburgh is the Boulevards, 
which consist ot three avenues ot 

* The distance from Petersburgh to Cron- 
st idt is, by land, 47 versls. 

From Petersburgh to \ yborg, 139 versts. 

From Petersburgh to Smoiensko, 838 
versts* 

From Petersburgh to Archangel, 1,145 
versts. 


trees carried round three sides of the 
Admiralty : the public amusements 
are concerts, given in the Hall of 
Music, and exhibitions in the The¬ 
atres. 

The best inns are, La Ville de 
Londres—La Ville de Grodno—La 
Ville de Paris —and VHotel de 
Madrid. 

The Fortress of Cronstadt, its 
Arsenal and Docks, merit notice; 
but cannot be seen without permis¬ 
sion from the Governor. 

There are twelve royal Villas in 
the neighbourhood of Petersburgh. 
Tschesme contains portraits of the 
reigning Princes of Europe— Tgar- 
skoe-Zelo, about fifteen English miles 
from the metropolis,contains a room 
incrusted with amber; and a garden 
which merits notice; but the house 
is too gaudy— Peterhof, about five 
miles further distant, is called the 
Versailles of the North. 

It is necessary that Foreigners, 
previous to quitting Petersburgh, 
should have their names advertised 
three times in the gazette; which, 
added to the formalities required for 
obtaining the podaroshna and pass¬ 
ports, occupies some time*. 

ROUTE FROM PETERSBURGH TO 
MOSCOW. 

22 S'. Sophia —District town. Govern¬ 
ment of Petersburgh— A few versts 
from Petersburgh begins the 
-wooden road constructed by Peter 
the Great; and consisting of a 
platform of small trees which, 
when not neatly joined together 
(and this frequently occurs) is so 
rough, that the Russians, in order 
to mitigate the inconvenience, fill 
their travelling carriages with soft 
pillows. 

The country between Petersburgh 
and Moscow is covered, generally 
speaking, with thick forests of 
birch and fir. 

11 Jgiora 

From Petersburgh to Astracan, 1,179 
versts. 

The Almanack published yearly by the 
Academy of Sciences at Petersburgh con¬ 
tains a table of the Russian towns with 
their distances from Petersburgh and Mos¬ 
cow. 

2 G 


450 


APPENDIX. 


[Ch. XIV. 


25 Tossna 

32 Pomerania —Government of Novgo¬ 
rod. 

25 Tischoudovo 
24 Spaskaja-Poliste 
24 P odder ezie 

22 Novgorod—Government-town. Nov¬ 
gorod, supposed to have been 
founded in the fifth century, and 
once so potent as to have been 
called The Resistless , possess¬ 
ed during the plenitude of its 
power, upward of 400,000 inhabit¬ 
ants: and though now depopulated, 
and hastening fast to decay, it 
still exhibits vestiges of former 
magnificence; among which are 
the Walls of the Kremlin, and 
the Church S. Sophia, containing 
the Tombs of Valdomir and Feo¬ 
dor ; together with curious speci¬ 
mens of architecture, and paintings 
supposed to have been executed 
previous to the revival of the Arts in 
Italy. Its brazen Gates are report¬ 
ed to have been brought from the 
Crimea at the time of Valdomir’s 
expedition against the Greek em¬ 
pire. 

35 Bronnitzi 

27 Zuiffova 

31 Krestzi —District town. 

16 Rachino 
22 Jagelbitzi 
22 Zimogorie 
20 Jedrolo 
30 Kotilovo 

36 Wischnei-Wolotze/c —District town— 

Government of Tver. 

33 Widropouskoe 
38 Torjock —District town. 

33 Mednoe 

30 Tver—Government town—handsome, 

very commercial, and seated on 
the Volga. 

26 Wosskresenkoe 

31 Zudivovo —Government of Moscow. 

20 Klin —District town. 

3t Pecheki 
22 Tschernaia-Griasse 

28 Moscow'. 


728 versts, about 520 English miles. 

Moscow, the ancient capital of the 
Russian empire, and thirty-live versts 
in circumference, is watered by the 
Moskwa ; and before the French in¬ 
vaded Russia possessed upward of 
300,000 inhabitants. The Kremlin, 
or Citadel, which stands on an emi¬ 
nence in the centre of the town, is 
a large walled circle, containing a 
gaudy mass of Asiatic, Grecian, and 
Gothic edifices ; and comprehending 
the Holy Gate, through which every 
passenger walks bare-headed ; the 


Trinity Church ; together with those 
of S. Nicholas and the Assumption ; 
the Chapel and Palace of the Czars; 
and the lofty Tower of Ivan Ve¬ 
liki, crowned by a steeple and gilt 
dome. The Palace of the Czars is a 
gorgeous structure in the Hindoo 
style; and was erected about two 
hundred years ago. The domes oi 
the various buildings are many of 
them gilt, the roofs stained either 
green or red, and the walls and 
towers covered with glazed tiles of 
various colours, or adorned with 
paintings which represent scriptural 
histories. 

The imperial palace was gutted by 
the French ; as w as an ancient edifice 
containing an apartment which is 
used as the public hall of audience 
at the coronation of the Russian 
Sovereigns. Part of the walls of the 
Kremlin, and one of the towers near 
the river, the church of S. Nicholas, 
the four great bells of Moscow, the 
walls of the arsenal, and a piece of 
the gate of S. Nicholas, were blown 
up, and the tower of Ivan Veliki rent 
from the top to the bottom, by mines 
prepared and exploded at the com¬ 
mand of Napoleon, when he was 
compelled to relinquish his long- 
looked-for asylum in Moscow', by a 
master-stroke of Russian policy ; 
which reduced the greater portion of 
the town to ashes, and thereby, in all 
probability, saved the empire from 
being conquered by France. 

Moscow is now rising rapidly from 
its ashes, though vestiges of the con¬ 
flagration still remain. The most 
frequented Promenade here is the 
Boulevards; and The German Hotel 
is one of the best inns. 

ROUTE FROM PETERSBURGH TO TIIE 
FRONTIER OF SWEDEN. 

Versts. 

24 Dranichenikovo 

15 Reloostrrfskoe 

25 Lindoula — Government of Vyborg, V 

20 Kampala 

19 Souvenoia 

20 Kemera 

22 Cyborg— Government-town. 

20 Tcrvaioki 



INDEX. 


Page 

Abano, Baths of .... SOI 
Abbey of S. Denis .... 2 

Camaldoli, near Florence . 85 

Del Bosco, near Novi . .110 

Abbeville . . . Appendix, 333 

Adelsberg. ap. 422 

Adrian’s Villa.219 

Agata, S.229 

Agnano, Lake of.255 

Agnello, S.289 

Aicha. ap. 415 

Aiguebelle. ap. 383 

Aix-les-Banies .... ap. ib. 
Aix-la-Chapelle .... ap. 420 
Aix-en-Provence . . . ap. 313 

Albano.224 

Alessandria . 109 

Alicant. ap. 323 

Alphabetical List of Towns, Ri¬ 
vers, $c., with their ancient 
Names .... ap. 452-460 

Alps, Jura chain, passage of, . 28 

Alps, Maritime, ditto . . .106 

Alps, Rheetian, ditto . . ap. 399 

Amalfi ..290 

Amiens. ap. 333 

Amsterdam. ap. 436 

Amphion, source of, .... 37 

Ancient marine Festival at Sor¬ 
rento .2-93 

Ancona. ap. 390 

Angers. ap. 353 

Antibes. ap. 313 

Antiquities between Baccano 
and Rome . . . . 121-123 

Anvers. ap. 436 

Aquapendente.121 

Arboga. ap. 444 

Arcy, Grottoes of,.27 

Arezzo ..297 

Arona.4 5 

Arqua.301 

Aschersleben .... ap. 412 


Page 

Assens. ap. 438 

Assisi.296 

Asti. 1 Q 9 

Astroni.256 

Avalon. .27 

Avernus, Lake of,.252 

A versa, Lunatic Asylum at, . . 230 
Austrian Dominions—Passports 
■—Money—Post-horses—Best 
Money to take from Tuscany 
into Germany . . ap. 402, 403 

Avignon. c ,p. 343 

Augsburgh. a p. 414 

Augst. ap. 415 

Auray. 353 

Aussig. 312 

Autun. ap. 340 

Auxerre.27 

Auxonne . 28 

Baaden. a p. 420 

Baccano.123 

Badajos. ap. 425 

Bagni di Lucca. 114 

BagnidiPisa. 99 

Baia, excursion to, ... . 250 

Bank-notes, where to exchange 
them for Napoleons . ap. 325 

Bargains with Innkeepers ap. ib. 

Bar-le-Duc. ap. 319 

Barcelona .... ap. 323, 429 

Basle. ap. 415 

Bataglia. 30 1 

Baths, German, namely, Carls¬ 
bad, Pyrmont, Spa . . ap. 419 

Baveno. 44 

Bayonne. ap. 316 

Beauvais. 2 

Bellinzone. ap. 355 

Belgirata .... ... 46 

Benoit, S., Cascade of, . . ap. 384 

Bergamo. ap. 391 

Bergen. ap. 445 

Berlin. ap. 410, 411 





























462 


INDEX. 


Page 

Bernard, S., passage of, . ap. 356 

Besan^on. ap. 350 

Best road from Calais to Paris 
through Beauvais . . ap. 333 

Bocchetta, passage of, ap. 360, 393 
Bois-le-Duc . . i . . ap. 435 

Bologna, description of that city 
and its Environs—Masters 
for the Instruction of young 

Persons.54, 55 

Bolsena, Lake of,.122 

Town of, . . . .121 

Bonneville.32 

Bordeaux. ap. 346 


Borgo, S. Donino . . . 


Borromean Islands . . 

. . 45 

Boulogne, .... ap. 

333, 400 

Breda. 

ap. 435 

Brescia. 

ap. 391 

Brest «•••••• 

ap. 347 

Brieux, S. 

ap. ib. 

Brigg. 


Bris, S. 


Bronze Statues first broug 

lit to 

perfection in Etruria . 

. . 61 

Brunswick, price of Post-horses, 

••••••• 

ap. 409 

Brunswick, description of that 

city. 

ap. 413 

Brussels, description of, . 

ap. 417 

Bud in . 


Buonconvento . . . 

. . 121 

Burgos. 

ap. 428 

cilllZ ••••••• 

ap. 432 

Caen. 

ap. 353 

Cahors. 

ap. 351 

Calais. 


Calais, distance from, to Paris, 

ap. 332 

Cambray. 

ap. 334 

Campo-Marone . . . 

. . Ill 

Camuscia . 

ap. 389 

Canal of Languedoc . 

ap. 332 

Capri, description of. 

. . 291 

Capua, modern, 

Capua, ancient, . . . 

. . 229 

. . 256 

Careggi de’ Medici . . 

. . 83 

Carignano. 

. . 108 

Carlscrona. 

ap. 441 

Carrara. 

. . 102 

Cascade of Tern i . . . 

. . 295 

Caserta, excursion to, 

. . 256 

Castel-a-mare .... 


C'assel . 

ap, 418 


Page 

Cattolica. ap. 390 

Cava, La ... ... 278 

Cenis, Mont, passage of, ap. 360,383 
Chaldee Inscription at Palermo 283 
Chalons-sur-Marne . . ap. 349 

Chalons-sur-SaOne . . ap. 340 

Chambery. ap. 341 

Chamois, its agility and sagacity 36 
Chamouni, Valley of, ... 33 

Champagnole.29 

Chapeau, excursion to, . . . 34 

Charity, a peculiar trait of it, . 248 

Chartres. ap. 352 

Chateau of Fontainbleau . . 25 

Chateauroux .... ap. 346 

Chaumont. ap. 350 

Cenotaph of Cicero .... 228 


Chede, Cascade and Lake of, 33 

Cherbourg. ap. 353 

Chiandola, La,.106 


Christiania. ap. 445 

Christianstad .... ap. 441 
Christiansund .... ap. 445 

Civita Castellana.294 

Cleves . ap. 434 

Climates of the Continent ap. 321 

Cluse.32 

Coffee, when first known as a 

beverage,.268 

Coimbra. ap. 425 

Col de Tenures . . . ap. 357 

Cologne. ap. 417 

Como, Lake of, ... ap. 356 

Coni.107 

Conegliano.304 

Constance, Lake and Town 

of,. ap. 414 

Copenhagen, and its environs, 
description of, . . ap. 438,439 

Cora . 227 

Cordova. ap. 431 

Corneto.122 

Cortona.297 

Cretins and Goitres, by what 
means diminished in the 
Maurienne, .... ap. 384 
Cum®, excursion to, . . . . 254 

Custom-house between Gex and 

Morez. a p. 400 

Custom-house near Piacenza ap. ib. 
Custom-houses at Pont-de-Beau- 

^ voisin. ap. 341 

Custom-house at Ponteba . . 305 
Cuxhaven.319 






























INDEX. 


463 


Page 

Czaslau.311 

Dantzig. ap. 414 

Dejean and Emery, Voturinser/ 2 . 328 
Denmark, Money—Price of 
Post-horses—Passports, fyc. 

ap. 437,438 

Dieppe. ap. 334 

Dijon. . 28 

Diligence from London to Pa¬ 
ris . ap. 328 

Doccia, Monastery of, . . . 84 

Dole.28 

Domo-d’ Ossola ..... 44 

Dovaine, Frontier Custom-house 36 
Douay ....... ap. 334 

Dover, best Inn, . . . ap. 328 

Dover, Custom-house, ap. 401 
Dresden, Population, Architec¬ 
ture, Religion, Character 
of Inhabitants, Inns, objects 
best worth notice, . . .313 

Royal Gallery of Pictures . 314 

Treasury.316 

Cabinet of antique Sculpture 
and China . . . .316,317 

Distance from V ienna to Dres¬ 
den, and from Dresden to 

Hamburgh.317 

Dresden, [Appendix.] Money of 
Saxony—Price of Post-horses 
-—Weights and Measures—• 
Prices at Hotels—Restaura¬ 
teurs—Wages of a Valet-de¬ 
place — Carriages — Sedan- 

chairs, 8)C. -Articles best 

worth purchasing—Post-Of¬ 
fice—Diligences—Expense of 
franking Letters for Great- 


Britain. 407,408 

Dunkelsbuhl .... ap. 414 

Dunkerque. ap. 347 

Eboli.284 

Echelles, passage of, ap. 341, 360 

Ecksioe. ap. 442 

Eger. ap. 420 

Elvas. ap. 425 

Emden. ap. 435 

Emissario, near Albano . . 224 

Enkoping. ap. 444 

Environs of Florence ... S3 

Erfurt. ap. 412 

Esseck. ap. 421 


Etrurians, the first comedians 

who exhibited in Italy . . 85 


Page 

Evian .36 

Excursion from Geneva to Cha- 

mouni, 8fc . 32 

from Plymouth to Or¬ 
leans . ap. 329 

Expense attendant upon conti¬ 
nental travelling . . . ap. ib. 

Faenza. ap. 389 

Family expenses in various 
parts of the Continent, com¬ 
parative view of, . . . ap. 382 

Famine in the Apennine . . 116 


Fano. ap. 390 

Ferrara.. . 300 

Fiesole.84 

Fiorenzuola.51 


Florence, origin of that city . 57 

Palazzo-Vecchio .... ib. 


Loggia.58 

Piazza del Granduca . . . ib. 

Royal Gallery of Sculpture 
and Paintings, . . . 58-65 

Palazzo-Pitti .... 65-67 
Giardino di Boboli .... 67 

Museo d’lstoria Naturale . . ib. 

Duomo, Campanile, and Bap¬ 
tistery . 68 , 69 

Church of S. Marco ... 69 

S. S. Annunziata ... 70 

S. Maria Maddalena dei 

Pazzi.71 

Santa Croce.72 

S. Lorenzo, new Sacristy, 
old Sacristy .... 74 

Capella de’ Medici .... ib. 
Libreria Mediceo-Laurenziana 75 
Church of S. Maria Novella . ib. 
Orsanmichele . . . . 76 

San Spirito. ib. 


Carmine.77 

S. Trinitit.78 


S. Ambrogio. ib. 

S. Gaetano. ib. 

Reale Accademia .... ib. 
Oratorio dello Scalzo . . . ib. 

Palazzi Gerini, Riccardi, 
Corsini, Mozzi, Buonaroti, 
Strozzi, Uguccioni ... 79 

Casa dei Poveri.80 

Spedali di Bonifazio, S. Maria 
nuova,degl’ Innocenti—Co¬ 
lumns, Bronze Wild Boar, 
and other Sculpture. . . ib 

PonteSantaTrinita-—Theatres 






















464 


INDEX. 


Page 

(Florence.)— Mosaic Work — 
Accademia della Crusca— 
Hotels—Markets — Wine, 
Water — Climate — Eng¬ 
lish Physician—Boarding¬ 
houses . 81 

List of objects best worth 
notice, as they lie conti¬ 
guous to each other . . 82 

Festivals. ib. 

Character of the Florentines . 85 

Tuscan Peasantry . . . 86 , 87 

Anecdote relative to a poor 
Foundling. . . . 88,89 

Florence, [Appendix.] Price of 
apartments at Hotels — Pri¬ 
vate Lodging-houses—where 
to apply for information re¬ 
specting the latter—Boarding¬ 
house—prices of various ar¬ 
ticles —- shops — Firewood— 
Fees to medical men—Mas¬ 
ters—Artists—Bankers—Best 
Padrone di Fetture —Post-of¬ 
fice— Country houses near 
Florence. 868-371 


Foligno.296 

Fondi . ■.228 

Fontainbleau, forest of, . . 25 


Forli. ap. 389 

France, tax on English car¬ 
riages . ap. 328 

Money of France . . ap. 329 

Price of Post-horses . ap. 330 
Public Diligences, ^ c. ap. 331 
Canal of Languedoc—Mes- 
sagerie a Cheval—distance 
from Calais to Paris . . 332 

Distance from Ostend to Paris 
—Dieppe to Paris—Havre 

to Paris. ap. 333 

Frangy.ap. 383 

Frankfort on the Mein . ap. 412 
Frankfort on the Oder . . ap. 413 

Frascati, excursion to . . . 222 

Fredericshall. ap. 445 

Frejus. ap. 343 

Frey sing. ap. 415 

Fulde. ap. 412 

Gaeta.229 

Garda,Lake of, .... ap. 391 

Garigliano.229 

Geneva, description of that 

town.30, 31 

Geneva, Lake of,.31 


Page 

Geneva, [Appendix.] Draught- 
horses—Money — Post-office 
•—Expense of livingat Geneva 
-—Diligences—Price of Post- 

horses . 354, 355 

Genoa, description of, . 103, 104 

Hotels—Provisions—Climate 
—Character of the Genoese 105 

Genlis .28 

Genzano, and the Festival of 

Flora.226 

Genevre, Mont, passage of, ap. 386 

Gerona . ap. 429 

Gex, passports .... ap. 400 

Giessen. ap. 418 

Gingoux, S.37 

Gotha . ap. 412 

Gothard, S., Passage of, . ap. 355 
Gottingen, description of, ap. 413 
Gottingen, excursion thence to 
Hartz .... ap. 418, 419 

Gothenborg . ap. 44 4 

Granada, description of that 


city and the Fortress of Al¬ 
hambra . ap. 430 

Gray. ap. 350 

Gratz. ap. 422 

Grenoble. ap. 351 

Grodno. ap. 451 

Groningen. ap. 436 

Grotto-Ferrata. 222 

Hague, the. ap. 434 

Halle. ap. 412 

Hamburgh, description of, . 318 


Hamburgh, [Appendix.] Money 
— Bankers’ accounts, ttyc .—■ 
Pound weight—price of din¬ 
ner at a table d’hote—price 
of Claret—Cambric, the ar¬ 
ticle best worth purchasing 408 

llanau. ap. 412 

Hanover, price of post-horses, 

§c . ap. 409 

Hanover, description of . ap. 413 
Hannibal’s Route into Italy . 297 

Helvoetsluys .... ap. 435 
Herculaneum .... 25S-260 
Hesse, price of post-horses, 


#c. 


409 

Ilollabrun. 


310 

Horace’s Farm .... 

• 

221 

Hours when Churches and 

Pa- 

1 

laces in Italy are shewn 

• • 

47 

IIveres . 


345 

Jglau. 


311 






















INDEX. 


465 


Page 

Imola .ap. 389 

Inspruck.ap. 399 

Ischia, description of that island 293 

Itri. ap. 228 

Jezelsdorf.310 

Juden burgh. 307 

Juliers. a p. 420 

Kaschau. ap. 421 

Kingdom of the Netherlands, 
Holland — Money — Post- 
horses— Treckschuyts, — 
Expense of travelling- post— 
expense of travelling in a 
treckschuyt—Dutch inns ap. 
. 432, 433 


Klagenfurt . . *.306 

Krieglach.307 


Lago-Maggiore.43 

Landshut. ap. 415 

Lands-le bourg .... ap. 384 
Lariccia, or Alicia .... 226 
Lascia passare, ap. 388, 389, 395 

Laval. ap. 347 

Lauffenburgh, fall of the Rhine 

ap. 415 

Laundresses, their prices at 

Paris .339 

at Florence.370 

at Rome.377 

at Naples.389 

Lavinium.226 

Laybach. ap. 422 

Leghorn, description of that 
town and Port—Inns—Pro¬ 
testant Chapel . . . Ill, 112 

Leghorn, [Appendix.] Prices 
of various articles — Things 
best worth purchasing—Pro¬ 
visions—Public conveyances 
from Leghorn to Pisa—Post- 
office . 363-365 


Leipsic, description of that city 
—prices at the Theatre—fairs 
—Hotels—wages of a Valet- 


de-place—Carriages 

ap. 

411 

Length of an Italian post 

ap. 

359 

Lenzen . 

ap. 

410 

Leoben » . 

ap. 

307 

Lerida. 

ap. 

429 

Leutschau. 

ap. 

421 

Leuwarden. 

ap. 

436 

Leyden ...... 

ap. 

434 

Liege. 

ap. 

420 

Lille ....... 

ap. 

333 


Page 

Limoni.107 

Limoges. ap. 346 

Linkoping. ap. 412 

Lintz . /. ap. 41G 

Lisbon, description of the city, 
and its environs—water—eat¬ 
ables — lodgings — board — 
firewood—amusements—Ho¬ 
tels . ap. 123, 124 

Lodi.50 

L’Orient .... . ap. 353 

Louvain. ap. 417 

Lucca, description of thatcity— 

Inn.112 114 

Marlia—Road to the Bagni 

di Lucca.• 114 

Peasantry—mode of cultiva¬ 
ting this part of the Apen- 
nine—Villas between the 
Baths and the city . 116, 117 

Price of Post-horses in the 
Lombardo- V enetian Realm, 
Tuscany, the Principality 
of Lucca, the Ecclesiastical 
territories, and the King¬ 
dom of Naples . ap. 360, 361 

Liitzen. ap. 412 

Lyon, description of that city ap. 340 

Macon. ap. ib. 

Madrid, description of that city 

and its environs . . ap. 428 

Maestricht. ap. 435 

Magdeburgh . 318, and ap. 411 

Maglan, Valley of, .... 32 

Malaga. ap. 431 

Mans, Le, ...... ap. 353 

Mantua . . . . . ap. 398 

Marburgh. ap. 418 

Mahrburgh. ap. 422 

Marengo, Plain of . . . . 110 

Marino, San, Republic of, ap. 390 
Martorell . .... ap. 429 

Marseille . ap- 345 

Martigny.38 

Massa di Carrara . . . .102 

Massa di Sorrento .... 290 

Maurice, S.37 

Means of preserving health 
during a long journey . ap. 325 
Meillerie, Rocks of, ... 37 

Meissin . . . 317, and ap. 412 

Melun . . .... ap. 400 

Mere de Glace .... 34, 35 

Merida .... • • a P* ‘125 

2 II 
























46C 


INDEX. 


Page 

Merzhofen .307 

Mestre ... .... 301 

Midi, Dent du,.38 

Milan, description of that city 


and its environs, . . . 47-50 

Milan, [Appendix.] Lodging- 


houses—Hotels—Carriages— 


Valets-de-place—boxes 

at La 


Scala—Post-Office 

• • 

405 

Mile, German, length of, . 

ap. 

403 

Minturnum .... 


229 

Misenum . . . * . 

• • 

253 

M ittau. 


451 

Modena. 


Moelk. 


416 

Mola di Gaeta .... 

229 

Molaret. 

ap. 

386 

Montanvert .... 


35 

Montauban. 

ap. 

351 

Mont Blanc .... 

• • 

34 

Monte di Fo .... 


56 

Montefiascone . . . 

• a 

122 

Montmelian. 

ap. 

383 

Monte Nuovo . . . 

• . 

252 

Montereau . . * . . 

ap. 

400 

Montpellier .... 

. ap. 

345 

Monterosi, Lake of, . . 

• • 

123 

Mont Rose .... 


45 

Montserrat. 

ap. 

429 

Monza. 

50 

Morcles, Dent de, . . 

. # 

38 

Moscow, description of, . 

ap. 

450 

Moulins. 

. ap. 

342 


Munich, description of, ap. 415, 416 

Munster. ap. 418 

Nancy. ap. 349 

Nant d’Arpenas, Cascade of, . 32 

Nantes. ap. 353 

Naples, situation, Bay, §c. . 230 

Studii Publici .... 231-239 
Naples—Museo Borbonico, 
when open to the public 239 
Naples — Travellers advised 
to obtain an introduction 
to the Canonico Don An- 


dreadiJorio. 

ib. 

Palazzo Reale. 

239 

Chiesa di S. Ferdinando . . 

ib. 

Castel Nuovo .... 

240 

Castello dell’ Uovo . . . 

ib. 

Chiesa di S. Maria del Parto 

ib. 

diS. Brigida .... 

ib. 

di S. Giovanni di Fioren- 


tini. 

ib. 


Page 

Chiesadi l’lncoronata . . . 240 

della Pieta de’Torchini . . ib. 


di S. Maria della Nuova . ib. 
di Monte Oliveto . . . ib. 

di Gesu Nuovo .... ib. 
di S. Chiara .... ib. 

di S. Giovanni Maggiore 241 
del Salvatore .... ib. 

di S. Domenico Maggiore . ib. 

dello Spirilo Santo . . ib. 

di S. Maria della San it a . ib. 


di S. Giovanni a Carbonara ib. 
de’S. S. Apostoli . . . ib. 

Arcivescovado . . . . 242 

di S. Filippo Neri . . 243 

di S. Paolo Maggiore . . ib. 

di S. Maria Maggiore . 244 

di S. Pietro a Majella . . ib. 

Cappella di S. Severo . . . ib. 

Chiesa della Nunziata . . . ib. 

di S. Maria del Carmine . 245 

di S. Martino de’Certosini ib. 


Castello di S. Elmo . . . 246 

Palazzo-Berio. ib. 

Albergo de’Poveri .... ib. 

Theatres. ib. 

Promenades.247 

Forum Nundinarium . . . ib. 

Monument to the memory of 

Eustace. ib. 

Water. ib. 

Climate of Naples .... ib. 

Society and Festivals . . 248 

Hotels. ib. 


Character of the Neapolitans, ib. 
List of objects best worth no¬ 
tice as they lie contiguous 
to each other .... 249 

Naples,[Appendix.] Passports— 

Fees to Custom-house Officers 
—Money of Naples—Ex¬ 
change ..377 

Bankers—Common measure 
— Weights — Hotels, and 
other lodging-houses, prices 
at, and situation — Car¬ 
riages — Servants’ wages— 
price of various articles— 
English warehouses—Eng¬ 
lish medical men—Masters 
— Boxes at Thea tres—Post- 

office . 378-381 

Narbonne. a p. 352 

Nam i, Augustus’s Bridge at, . 294 


















INDEX. 


467 


Naumburgh. ap. 4 ]2 

Jj e pi. ap. 389 

Neptune, Grotto of, at Tivoli 220 

Nero, Baths of.253 

Nevers. ap. 34] 

Neukirken.. 

New road from Genoa through 
Lucca to Pisa . . . . . 102 

New road from Genoa through 
tile Val di Scrivia to Turin, 
avoiding the Bocchetta . . 109 

Nice, description of that city 
and its climate . . . \ 106 

Nikoeping. a p. 442 

Nimeguen. a p. 434 

Niort. ap , S52 

Nisida ..251 

Nismes. ap. 344 

Nocera.278 

Nordheim. ap. 413 

Nordlingen. ap. 4\4 

Norkoeping. ap. 442 

Novara. ap. 393 

Novgorod. ap. 450 

Nuremberg. ap. 416 

Oden see. ap. 439 

Ofen, or Buda .... ap. 421 

Oneglia.106 

Oporto. ap. 425 

Orange. ap. 343 

Orleans. ap. 346 

Orvietto.122 

Ossaia ..296 

Osoppo ..304 

Ostend . ap. 417 

Otricoli. ap. 389 

Packets from Cuxhaven to Har¬ 
wich .319 

Falmouth to the Mediterra¬ 
nean . ap. 322 

London to Calais . ap. 326 
Dover to Calais . . ap. 327 

Dover to Ostend . . ap. ib. 

Brighton to Dieppe . ap. ib. 
Southampton to Havre ap. ib. 
Plymouth to Bordeaux ap. ib. 
Plymouth to Guernsey ap. 329 
Colchester to Ostend ap. 418 
Ostend to Harwich . ap. ib. 
Ostend to Margate . ap. ib. 
Helvoetsluys to Harwich ap. 435 
Falmouth to Lisbon ap. 423 
Stralsund to Ystad . ap. 441 
Paderbom. ap. 418 


Page 

Padua.300 

Paestum, excursion to, . . 278-285 

Paintings found in Herculaneum 
and Pompeii—Painting, Art 
of, its rise and progress . .261 

Palestrina, excursion to, . . 223 

Pollone, game of,.83 

Pamplona. ap. 427 


Paris, improvements in that city 3 

Mus£e Royal.4-16 

Mus6e du Luxembourg . . 16 

Ecole Royale des Beaux Arts ib. 
Bibliotheque du Roi . . . ib. 

Mazarine. ib. 

de S. G£nevi6ve . . .17 

de 1’Arsenal. ib. 

delaVille. ib. 


du Mus£e d’Histoire Natu- 

relle ib. 

de la Faculte de M6d6cine ib. 

Mus£e d’Histoire Naturelle 
and Jardin du Roi . . 17,18 

Theatres ..... . 18 

Manufacture Royale des Glaces ib. 

Manufacture Royale des Ta- 
pisseries. ib. 

Colonnede la Place Vendome ib. 

Arc de triomphe de l’Etoile . ib. 

Port S. Denis. ib. 

Port S. Martin. ib. 

Tribunal du Corps Legislatif 19 

Basilique de Notre-Dame . ib. 

Pantheon. ib. 

Garde Meuble. ib. 

H&tel Royal des Invalides . ib. 

Institution Royale des Sourds- 


Muets.20 

Hospice de la Salp£triere . ib. 


llopital des Enfans-trouv£s . ib. 

Observatoire. ib. 

Palais du Temple .... ib. 
Palais de la Bourse . . . 21 

Greniers de Reserve . . . ib. 

Abattoirs. ib. 

Halle au B16. ib. 

Halle au Vins. ib. 

March6 a la Volaille . . . ib. 

Bridges. ib. 

Fontaine du Boulevarde deBondi22 

des Innocens. ib. 

de Grenelle. ib. 

de la Bastille ..... ib. 
Cimetieres and Catacombes 22,23 
S. Cloud. ... 23 


2 II 2 





















468 


INDEX. 


Page 

(Paris.)— Sevres.23 

Versailles. ib. 

Present state of Society at 

Paris.23,24 

Paris, [Appendix.] Hotels, 

—Eatables and wine—Res¬ 
taurateurs .335 

Caff£s—Wages of a Valet-de¬ 
place—Carriages — Public 
boats—Provisions— Shops 
•—Masters — English Li¬ 
brary and newspapers — 
Notary public — English 
Surgeon — Apothecaries, 
Chemists, Sfc. — Prices at 
the Theatres—Messageries 
Roy^iles — Offices of the 
Coc^e d’eau—Voiturins 
— General Post-office — 
Petite Posle . . . 336-339 

Parma.51,52 

Particulars relative to travel¬ 
ling in Italy . . . ap. 361-363 

Passau . ap. 416 

Passignano.296 

Passports, how to proceed re¬ 
specting them on leaving 
London for Paris . . ap. 323 

Passports, how to proceed re¬ 
specting them previous to 
quitting Paris; and how, on 
quitting England, to prevent 
detention at Paris respecting 


them.24 

Passports for returning from 

Rome to England . . ap. 399 

Pavia.. 50 

Peasants’ ball at Careggi de’ 

Medici.87 

Posilipo, Grotto of, . . . .251 

Perigueux. ap. 346 

Perpignan. ap. 352 

Perugia.296 

Pesaro . ap. 390 

Pescia.117 

Petersburgh and its environs 

ap. 447-119 

Peterswald.313 

Peypus, Lake of, ... ap. 447 

Piacenza.50 

Pietole, birth-place of Virgil ap. 398 

Piperno.227 

Pisa, description of that city 


and its environs . . . 90-100 


Page 

Character of the Pisans—Ho¬ 
tels—Fountain water—Thea¬ 
tre—and Battle of the Bridge 100 
Illumination in honour of S. 

Ranieri.101 

Carnival. ib. 

Climate. ib. 

Pisa, [Appendix.] Fees to Cus¬ 
tom-house Officers, 8)'c .— 
Lodging-houses — Prices of 
various articles — Masters— 

Fees to medical men, $'c .— 
Post-office — Diligence from 
Pisa to Florence . . 365-36S 

Pisevache, Cascade of the, . . 38 

Pistoja, description of that city 117 
Poggibonsi . . . ,. . ap. 388 

Poggi-a-Cajano, near Florence 117 
Poggi Imperiale, near Florence 84 

Poitiers. ap. 352 

Poligny, passports . . ap. 400 

Pompeii, excursion to, and de¬ 
scription of, that city . 264-277 

Ponte Centino.121 

Ponte de Beauvoisin . . ap. 341 

Ponteba, Custom-house there 305 

Ponte Molle.123 

Ponte Mammolo . . . . 219 

Pontine Marshes.227 

Ponte Sanguinetto .... 296 

Pordenon.304 

Portici.260 

Porto Venere.103 

Portugal, money of, . . ap. 423 

Price of draught-horses, 

$'c . ap. 424 

Prato Fiorito, near Lucca . 115 
Pratolino, near Florence . . 84 

Prague, description of that city 

—Inns.311,312 

Prague[Appendix.] Articles best 
worth purchasing—Wages of 
a Yalet-de-place—Carriages 406 

Presburgh. a p. 420 

Prices at Inns in France ap. 329 
Prices at Inns in Italy . . ap. 362 

Prices usually demanded by 
Voiturins . . . . . a p. ib. 

Procida .293 

Prussian dominions-—Price of 
Post-horses, &fc. . . ap. 408 

Passports. a p. 409 

Quedlinburgh . . . . ap. 412 

Rank 4 . ap. 421 























INDEX. 


469 


Radicofani... 

Ratafia, a deadly poison, as now 
made in France and Italy ap. 336 

Ratisbon. ap. 415 

Ravenna. a p . 390 

Reggio.52 

Reims . ap. 348 

Rennes. a p. 354 

Requisites for Invalids, and 
other Travellers, on leaving 
England ..... a p. 323 
Rhine, Fall of, in the Rhine- 
wald . . . . . . ap. 358 

Rhine, Fall of, at Schauffhausen 

ap. 414 

Riga. ap. 447 

Rimini. a p. 390 

Ringsted. ap. 433 

Rinteln. a p. 420 

Ro, Church there, .... 46 

Road from Genoa to Nice . 105 

Rochelle, La, .... ap. 352 

Roeskilde.ap. 439 

Rome, MaFaria .... 

Best situations, .... 

Society, . 

Excavations made by the 

French . 123-125 

Travellers advised to visit 
the Ruins for the first 
time by moonlight, . . 126 

Roman filial piety . . . 158 

Antiquities within the walls of Rome, 
namely: 

Foro Romano.126 

Tempio di Giove Tonante . . ib. 

Tempio della Concordia . . ib. 

Arco di Settimio Severo . . ib. 

Tempio di Saturno .... 127 
Colonna di Phocas .... ib. 
Tempio di Antonino e Faustina ib. 
Tempio di Giove Statore . . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Maria Liberatrice ib. 
Tempio di Remo . . . . 128 

della Pace . ib. 

di Venere e Roma . . ib. 

Arco di Tito.129 

Colosseo.129, 130 

Arco di Coslantino . . . 130 

Chiesa di S. Teodoro . . . ib. 

Arco di Settimio Severo in 

Velabro.131 

Arco di Giano Quadrifronte . ib. 


Antiquities of Rome, &fc. Page 

Cloaca Maxima. ib. 

Chiesa di S.Maria in Cosmedin 131 
Tempio di Vesta .... 132 

della Fortuna Virile . . ib. 

Palazzo de’Cesari . . 132-134 

Circus Maximus .... 134 

Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul 
Monte Celio .... 135 

Ter me di Tito. ib. 

Sette Salle. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte ib. 
Chiesa di S. Pietro in Vincoli 136 
di S. Maria della Navicella ib. 


di S. Stefano Rotondo . ib. 
Obelisk of the Piazza del Po- 

polo.137 


of the Trinita de’ Monti . ib. 

Villa Medici. ib. 

Statues and Obelisk in Piazza 
di Monte-Cavallo . . . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Bernardo . . ib. 

di S. Maria degli Angeli . 138 

The Pope’s oil cellar . . 139 

Obelisk of S. Maria Maggiore ib. 
Column in Piazza di S. Ma¬ 
ria Maggiore . . . . ib. 

Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore ib. 


Obelisk di S. Giovanni in La- 

terano.140 

Battisterio di Costantino . . ib. 

Basilica di S. Giovanni in La- 
terano. ib. 


Scala Santa—Triclinium . 141 

Anfiteatro Castrense . . . ib. 

Basilica di Santa Croce in Ge* 

rusalemme. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Bibiana . . . 142 

Tempio di Minerva Medica . ib. 
Arco di Gallieno .... ib. 
Remains of Aqueducts . . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Prassede . . ib. 

Campidoglio. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Maria d’Aracoeli 144 
di S. Pietro in Carcere ib. 
Palazzo del Senatore . . .145 

Palazzo de’Conservatori 145-147 
Museo Capitolino . . 147-151 

Travellers advised to visit the 
Museums by torch-light; 
and how to obtain per¬ 
mission for so doing . .147 

Tempio di Pallade . . . 151 

Tempio e Foro di Nerva . . ib. 

Foro e Colonna Trajana . .152 

Dogana Pontilicia .... ib. 









INDEX, 


4 TO 

Antiquities of Rome, fyc. Page 
Obelisk of Monte Citorio . 153 

Colonna Antonina .... ib. 
Mausoleo d’Augusto . . . ib. 

Campo Marzo. ib. 

Mausoleo-Adriano .... 154 

Tempio del Sole. ib. 

Obelisk in Piazza S. Maria sopra 

Minerva . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Mi¬ 
nerva .155 

Pantheon . 155-157 

Bagni d’Agrippa.157 

Piazza Navona. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Agnese, Piazza Na¬ 
vona . ib. 

Teatro di Marcello .... 158 

Portico d’Octavia. ib. 

Tempio d’Esculapio .... ib. 
Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Traste- 

vere.159 

Basilica di S. Maria in Traste- 

vere.. . . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Prisca .... ib. 
di S. Sabina . . . .160 

di S. Alessio ... . ib. 

Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio . . . ib. 

Terme di Caracalla .... ib. 
Sepolcro de’ Scipioni . . .161 

Porta S. Sebastiano . - . ib. 

Antiquities near Rome, namely, 
Basilica di S. Sebastiano alle 

Catacombe. ib. 

Circo di Caracalla . ... 162 

Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella . 168 

Public Ustrina. ib. 

Basilica di S. Paolo .... ib. 
Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre Fon- 

tane.164 

Excavations. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Urbano .... ib. 
Fontana della Dea Egeria . . 165 

Tempio di Redicolo .... ib. 

Porta Pia. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Agnese fuori di 

Porta Pia. ib. 

Chiesa di S. Costanza . . . ib. 

Mons Sacer.166 

Porta S. Lorenzo. ib. 

Basilica di S. Lorenzo . . . ib. 

Porta Maggiore. ib. 

Tor de’Schiavi.167 

Porta S. Giovanni .... ib. 
Temple of Fortuna Muliebris . ib. 
Roma Vecchia. ib 


Antiquities of Rome , fyc. Page 

Porta Angelica.167 

Porta Latina. ib. 


Porta Pinciana . . . 

• • 

ib. 

Porta Portense 

• • • 

ib. 

Porta di S. Pancrazio 

• • • 

ib. 

Pons J51ius, nowfPonte S 

Angelo 

168 

Pons Triumphalis 

• • • 

ib. 

Ponte Sisto .... 


ib. 

Pons Fabricius, now Ponte dei 


Quattro Capi . . 

• • 

ib. 

Pons Cestius . . . . 


ib. 

Pons Palatinus 

• • • 

ib. 

Pons Sublicius . . 

• • • 

ib. 

Basilica di S. Pietro . 

. 169- 

■ 174 

Vaticano .... 


174 

Cappella Sistina . . 

• • 

175 

Cappella Paolina . 

• • • 

ib. 

Stanze di Raflfaello, 

. 175- 

179 

Easel-Paintings . . 

• • • 

179 

Method of seeing the 

Statues 



of the Vatican Museum by 


torch-light.180 

Museo Chiaramonti, . . 180-182 

Pio-Clementino . 182-188 
Libreria Vaticano . . . 188-190 

Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini . 190 

Palazzo-Barberini. ib. 

Chiesa diS. Maria della Vittorial91 
Fontana di Termine . . . ib. 

Chiesa di S. Andrea a Monte 

Cavallo. ib. 

Palazzo-Pontiticio .... 192 
Palazzo Rospigliosi . . 192, 193 

Fontana di Trevi .... 193 
Chiesa di S. Maria del Popolo ib. 
di S. Carlo al Corso . . ib. 

di S. Lorenzo in Lucina 194 
di S. Ignazio .... ib. 
de’ S. S. Apostoli . . ib. 

di S. Maria di Loretto . ib. 

di Gesil. ib. 

di S. Andrea della Valle 195 
della Trinita de’ Pelegrini ib. 
di S. Carlo a Catenari . ib. 
di S. Giovanni de’ Fio* 
rentini ..... 196 
di S. Maria in Vallicella ib. 


di S. Maria della Pace ib. 
di S. Agostino . . . 197 

Palazzi Borghese. ib. 

Sciarra.198 

Doria. 199 

Bracciano.200 


Colonna ...... 201 



















INDEX. 


171 


Antiquities of Rome, 8fc. page 
Palazzi Giustiniani .... ib. 

Massimi. ib. 

Braschi.202 

Farnese. ib. 

Spada ....... 203 

Mattei. ib. 

Costaguti.204 

Falconieri. ib. 

Farnesina.205 

Corsini. ib. 

Accademia di S. Luca. . . 206 

Villas near Rome, namely, 

Villa Olgiata 206 

Borghese. ib. 

Ludovisia.207 

Albani. ib. 

Mattei.209 

Doria-Pamlili .... ib. 

Madama.210 

Hospitals. ib. 

Mosaic Manufacture .... ib. 
Basilic®, when open — Pa¬ 
laces, Villas, and Mu¬ 
seums, how to obtain ad¬ 
mittance when they are not 


open to the public, and 
what fees are expected by 
the persons who shew them ib. 

Artists.211 

Bankers. ib. 

Theatres. ib. 

Carnival. ib. 

Remnant of the ancient Satur¬ 
nalia . ib. 


Amusements during Lent . 212 

Ceremonies of the Holy Week, 
Easter-day, fyc., . . 212-216 

Promenades—Hotels . . 217 

List of objects best worth no¬ 
tice as they lie contiguous to 

each other . ib. 

Rome, [Appendix.] Current 
coins—Bankers’ accounts — 
Weight—Measures — Hotels 
and other Lodging-houses— 
water—air—prices of various 
articles—Confectioner—Me¬ 
dicines — Roman pearls — 
Masters—Best shops for anti¬ 
quities, modern works of art, 
fyc. —Theatres— Unfurnished 
apartments — Procaccio — 

Best Voiturin—Post-office 372-377 
Ronciglione ...... 122 


Rosenberg . . , . ap. 421 

Rotterdam. ap. 434 

Roveredo . ap. 398 

Rovigo .300 

Rubicon. ap. 390 

Russia, Money—Price of Post- 
horses — other requisites for 
Travellers—Russian Voitu- 


rins—passports . 

ap. 446, 447 

Salenche .... 


Salerno . . . . 


S. Jean de Maurienne 

. . ap. 383 

S. Lorenzo nuovo 

. . . 121 

S. Malo .... 

. . ap. 354 

S. Quirico . 

. . . 121 

S. Quentin, Tunnel at, 

. . ap. 348 

Samogia . 

. ap. 389 

Saorgio .... 


Saragossa 

ap. 427, 429 

Savigliano . 

. . . 108 

Scarena .... 

. . 106 

Schaflfhausen 

. . ap. 414 

Sc h lan. 


Schottwien . . 

. . . . 307 

Sculpture, Art of, its 

rise and 

progress . . . . 

... 4 

Secheron .... 

. . . 32 

Sedan . 


Segovia. 

. . ap. 425 

Seml'in. 


Sesto-Calende . . , 

. ... 46 

Sestrieres, Col de . 

. . ap. 387 

Seville. 


Siena, Wine — Water — Eata- 


bles—Character of the Sanesi 
—Objects best worth notice 
—Maremma . . . .118-121 

Sierre.39 

Simplon, The, passage of . 40-44 
Price of post horses to ascend 
the mountain . . . ap. 360 

Sion.39 

Sleswick. ap. 439 

Smolensko. ap. 451 

Soedertellje. ap. 442 

Soissons. ap. 348 

Sorrento, description of that 
city, and its Piano . . 285-290 

Sorrento, [Appendix.] Lodging- 
houses—Provisions—Boats 
—Best mode of conveying 
a family from Naples to 
Sorrento—Post-office . 381-382 
Physician.382 





























INDEX. 


472 

Pase 

Sospello . 106 

Spain, Money of—Price of Post- 
horses, §'c. — Requisites for 
Travellers in that country, 

ap. 426, 427 

Spilimbergo.304 

Spilonga.296 

Splugen, passage of . . ap. 357 

Spoleto.295 

Stargard. ap. 413 

Stavanger. op. 445 

Stendal. ap. 411 

Stockerau.310 

Stockholm, description of that 
city and its environs ap. 442-444 
Stones, shower of, at Pienza . 264 

Stralsund. ap. 441 

Strasburgh. ap. 349 

Straubing. ap. 416 

Susa. ap. 386 

Sweden, Money of—Price of 
Post-horses, §c. . . ap. 440, 441 
Switzerland, Post-horses, fyc. — 

Rest mode of travelling— 

Money, 8fc . ap. 354 

Tagliamento, Torrent so called 304 
Tavernettes. ap. 385 


Temple of Clitumnus . . . 296 

Tenda, Col di.107 

Terracina .227 

Terni . 295 

Thrasymenus, Lake of, 296, and 

ap. 389 

Tivoli, excursion to, . . .218 

Tokay, wine of, . : . . ap. 422 


Torgau . .... ap. 413 

Torre del Greco, destruction of, 263 
Torre della Nunciata . . . 264 

Torre di tre Ponte .... 227 

Torrecelli .121 

Tortona .... ap. 396 

Toulouse . .... ap. 351 

Tours . .... ap. 3.52 

Tourtemagne, Cascade of, . . 39 

Trask irken.307 

Trebia, Torrent so called, 51, 

and ap. 389 

Trent . .... ap. 398 

Treviso . 304 

Triest. ap. 422 

Trolhaetta, Cascades of . ap. 444 

Troyes. ap. 350 

Tver . .... ap. 450 


Page 


Turin, description of that city— 
Hotels — Climate — W ater— 


Environs . 

. 108, 109 

Tuscany, currentcoins— 

-weights 

—measures—Prices at Hotels 

wages of Valet-de-place ap. 363 

Tusculum .... 

. . .222 

Tyrnau. 

. ap. 421 

Valencia .... 

ap. 323, 427 

Valence. 


Valladolid .... 


Vall-Ombrosa . . . 


Vannes. 

. . ap. 353 

Velleia, Ruins of, . . 

... 52 

Velletri. 

. . . 226 


Venice, objects best worth no¬ 
tice there — Promenades — 
Theatres — Hotels — Water 

301-304 

Venice, [Appendix.] Price of 
apartments and dinner at Ho¬ 
tels—Price, per day, of a 
gondola—wages of a Valet- 
de-place—articles best worth 
purchasing—Post-oflice 403-405 
Vercelli ...... ap. 393 

Verona, description of that city, 
and of Juliet’s death and 
Tomb .... ap. 391, 392 

Vesuvius, excursion to, . . 257 

Vezoul. ap. 350 

Vicenza, description of, . ap. 392 

Vico, Lake of,.122 

Vienna, Custom-house—Hotels 
—Objects best worth notice 
— Coffee-houses — W ater — 
National dish — Theatres — 
Fireworks — Distance from 

Florence . 308-310 

Vienna, [Appendix.] Pound 
weight, and braccio—Prices 
at one of the Hotels—Res¬ 
taurateurs—Wages of a Va¬ 
let-de-place — Carriages and 
Sedan-chairs—Medical men 
—Shops—Articles best worth 
purchasing — Prices at the 
Opera-house — Post-office— 

Diligences. 405, 406 

Vienne. ap. 342 

Via-Reggio. ap. 387 

Vietri.278 

Villach.305 

























INDEX. 


473 


Pa»e 

Vionnaz . a p, 355 

Viterbo.]22 

Voltaggio. HI 

Voltaire’s Villa at Fernay . . 31 

Voyage from Amsterdam to 

Utrecht . ... op. 437 

from Bordeaux, up the Ga¬ 
ronne, to Toulouse op. 332 
from Dresden, down the 
Elbe, to Hamburgh 317, 318 
from Ferrara to Venice . 300 
from Frankfort on the Mein 
to Cologne . . . ap. 410 

from Francolino to Venice 301 
from Genoa to Leghorn . Ill 
from Genoa to Nice . 105, 106 
from Guernsey to S. Malo 

ap. 329 

from Hamburgh, down the 
Elbe, to Cuxhaven 318, 319 
from Leghorn to Pisa, by 
the Canal . . . ap. 364 

from Lyon, down the 
Rhone, to Avignon op. 344 
from Mayence, down the 
Rhine, to Coblentz ap. 418 
from Naples to Procidaand 


Ischia.293 

from Naples to Sorrento . 285 
from Sorrento to Amalfi . 290 
from Sorrento to Castel-a- 

mare.291 

from Sorrento to Capri . ib. 


from Orleans, down the 
Loire, to Nantes . ap. 330 
from Ratisbon, on the Da¬ 
nube, to Vienna . ap. 410 
from Toulouse, on the Ca¬ 


nal of Languedoc, to Be- 


ziers . . . . 

. ap. 332 

Upsala . 


Utrecht . 


Water Diligence 

. ap. 331 

Weissenfels . . . . 

. ap. 412 

Wurtzburgh .... 

. ap. 417 

Wurzen . 

. ap. 412 

Xeres de la Frontera . 

. ap. 432 

Yeselles, or lsella . 

. . 44 

Y stad. 


Zirl, passage of, . . . 

. ap. 369 

Znaim . . . . ^ 

. . . 310 

Zwolle. 



Pagc 

APPENDIX—ROUTES. 
FRANCE. 


From Calais, through Amiens, 

to Paris. 333 

Calais, through Beauvais, 

to Paris . ib. 

Ostend, through Lille, to 

Paris. ib. 

Diepe, through Rouen, to 

Paris.334 

Havre, through Rouen, to 

Paris. ib. 

Paris, through Dijon, to 

Geneva.339 

Lyon to Geneva, by Cerdon 
and S. Germain-de-Joux ib. 


Paris, through Lyon, to 

Chambery.340 

Paris, through Nevers and 
Moulins, to Lyon . .341 
Lyon, through Avignon and 
Aix to Nice .... 342 
Avignon to Nismcs and 
Montpellier .... 344 
Aix to Marseilles and Tou¬ 
lon .345 

Paris to Bordeaux and Bay¬ 
onne .346 

Paris to Brest ... . 347 

Paris to Dunkirk . . . ib. 

Lille, through Ypres, to 

Ostend.348 

Lille to Bruxelles . . . ib. 

Paris, through Bruxelles, to 

Ostend. ib. 

Paris, through Reims and 
Sedan, to Liege . . . ib. 

Paris, through Chalons-sur- 
Marne, to Strasburgh . 349 
Paris to Strasburgh, through 
Troyes, Langres, Vezoul, 
Befort, and Basle . . 350 

Paris, through Langres, to 

Besan<;on. ib. 

Paris to Grenoble . . .351 

Paris, through Toulouse, to 

Perpignan. ib. 

Paris, through Chartres, to 
La Rochelle .... 352 
Paris, through Caen, to 

Cherbourg.353 

Paris, through Rennes, to 
L’Orient. ib. 


















474 


INDEX. 


Page 

From Paris to Nantes . . . 353 

Nantes, through Rennes, to 
S. Malo.354 

SWITZERLAND. 

From Geneva, by the Simplon, 

to Milan.355 

ITALY. 

From Geneva to Chambery . . 383 
Chambery, over the Mont 
Cenis, to Turin . . . ib. 

Nice, through Genoa, to 
Pisa, with an account of 
the Bridle-road . . 387 

Leghorn, through Pisa, to 

Florence. ib. 

Pisa, through Lucca and 
Pistoja, to Florence . . ib. 

Pisa to Modena . . . ib. 

Florence, through Siena, 
to Rome ... . 388 

Florence, through Perugia, 

to Rome.389 

Genoa, through Bologna, 
Rimini, Sinagalia, An¬ 
cona, Loretto, andTerni, 

to Rome. ib. 

Milan, through Bergamo, 

Verona, Vicenza, and Pa¬ 
dua, to Venice, Bologna, 
and Florence . . . 391 

Milan to Bologna, through 
Piacenza, Parma, Reg¬ 
gio, and Modena . . 393 

Milan to Turin .... ib. 
Aosto to Turin . . . ib. ' 

Turin, over the Maritime 
Alps, to Nice . . . ib. 

Turin, over the Bocchetta, 
to Genoa .... ib. 
Rome to Naples . . . ib. 

Naples to Prestum . . 394 

Environs of Naples . . ib. 

En voiturier. 

From Pisa to Massa and Car¬ 
rara .394 

Rome to Florence, through 

Perugia.395 

Florence, through Siena, 
to Rome. ib. 


Page 

From Rome to Naples . . 395 

Calais to Rome, during the 
winter of 1820 . . . ib. 

Florence, through Bologna, 
Venice, Vienna, Prague, 
and Dresden, to Ham¬ 
burgh .397 

Florence, through Mantua, 
and by the Tyrol, to Augs- 
burgh and Wurtzburgh 398 
Rome, through Florence 
and Milan, and by the 
Simplon, to Geneva; and 
over the Jura Alps to 
Poligny, Dijon, Melun, 
Paris, and Boulogne, 
during summer . . . 399 

Florence, during the sum¬ 
mer of 1822, to Venice, 
Milan, Turin, and over 
Mont Cenis, to Pont de 
Beauvoisin . . . .401 

GERMANY. 

From Hamburgh to Berlin . . 410 

Hamburgh to Leipsic . .411 

Leipsic to Dresden . . .412 

Leipsic, through Gotha, to 
Frankfort on the Mein . ib. 
Leipsic to Brunswick . . ib. 

Brunswick to Hanover . 413 
Hanover to Gottingen . . ib. 

Leipsic to Dantzick . . ib. 

Frankfort on the Mein to 
Augsburgh ... 414 

Augsburgh to Constance, 
Schaffausen, and Basle . ib. 
Augsburgh to Ratisbon . 415 

Ratisbon to Munich . . ib. 

Ratisbon to Prague . 416 

Vienna, through Ratisbon 
and Bruxelles, to Ostend 

416, 417 

Frankfort on the Mein, 
through Cassel to Mun¬ 
ster .418 

V ienna to Carlsbad,through 
Eger and Zwoda . . 420 

Hanover to Pyrmont . . ib. 

Hamburgh to Pyrmont . ib. 
Bruxelles, through Aix-la- 
Chapelle and Liege, to 
Spa. ib. 







INDEX. 


A+f •* 
1(0 


Page 

From Vienna to Baaden . . 420 

Vienna to Presburgh . . ib. 

Teutsch Altenburgh to Bel¬ 
grade .421 

Presburgh to Kaschau and 
Tokay .... ib. 

Vienna to Trieste . . . 422 


PORTUGAL. 

From Lisbon to Oporto . . 424 

Lisbon to Madrid . . . 425 


SPAIN. 

From Bayonne to Madrid . . 427 

Perpignan to Barcelona . 428 

Barcelona to Saragossa . 429 
Madrid to Granada . . . ib. 

Madrid to Malaga . .431 

Madrid to Cordova, Seville, 
and Cadiz . . . 431, 432 


NETHERLANDS. 

From Amsterdam to Cleves and 

Cologne.433 

Cleves to the Hague, Rot¬ 
terdam and Helvoetsluys 434 
Amsterdam to Munster . 435 

Amsterdam to Emden . . ib. 

Amsterdam to Utrecht, 
Bois-le-Duc, and Maes- 

tricht . ib. 

Amsterdam to Leyden, the 
Hague, and Rotterdam . ib. 


Page 

From Nimeguen to Rotterdam 

and Helvoetsluys . . . 435 

Nimeguen to Bois-le-Duc 

and Breda. ib. 

Bois-le-Duc to Anvers . . ib. 

Bergen-op-Zoom to An¬ 


vers .436 

Amsterdam to Hamburgh ib. 


Hamburgh to Amsterdam, 
by Groningen and Leu- 
warden .. ib. 

DENMARK. 

From Copenhagen to Ham¬ 
burgh .439 

Copenhagen to Gothen¬ 
borg . ib. 

SWEDEN AND NORWAY. 

From Stralsund, through Carls- 

crona, to Stockholm . 441 

Stockholm to Upsala . . 444 

Stockholm to Gothenborg ib. 
Gothenborg to Christiana ib. 
Christiana to Bergen . . 445 

RUSSIA. 

From Riga to Petersburgh . 447 

Petersburg!! to Moscow 449,450 
Petersburgh to the Fron¬ 
tier of Sweden . . . 450 

Moscow to Grodno . . .451 

Moscow to Riga, and the 
Frontier of Prussia . . 452 





LONDON: 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES, 
Northumbcrland-couit. 


ERRATA 


Page. 

Line. Column. 

70 

22 

2 

for “ Andreo," read Andrea. 

108 

19 

2 

for “ del," read di. 

130 

5 

1 

for “ approp/rated,” read appropriated. 

187 

19 

2 

for “ Phocian,” read Phocion. 

197 

47 

1 

for “ Muziana,” read Muziano. 

275 

last line. 

1 

dele exclamation-point. 

289 

16 

1 

after “ meat,” insert is. 

297 

29 

2 

for “ brum,” read brun. 

328 

4 

2 

for “ return it,” read return in it. 

340 

61 

2 

for “ d' Provence,” read de Provence. 

345 

17 

2 

for “ d' Franklin," read de Franklin. 

346 

29 

2 

for “ Church ci-devant," read Church of the ci devant. 

375 

50 

2 

for “ Vic,” read Via. 



































. 

»■ 

. 

.o 4| *• 











































, * 

' 


■ 






SUPPLEMENT TO THE APPENDIX. 


FRANCE. 


ROUTE FROM PARIS TO PLOM- 
BlERES. 

Po»t*. „ 

21 Chalons-sur-Marne—See page 349, 
Appendix. 

2 La Chauss'ce 
2 Vitry-sur-Marne 
2 Longchamp 
14 Saint Dizier 

Saudrupt— A third horse, through- 
out the year, going and returning. 
14 Bar-le-Duc—A third horse, throughout 
the year, going and returning. 

2 Ligny 

2b Houdelaincourt 

2| Domretny—A third horse, throughout 
the year, going and returning. 

H Neufchdteau 
l| Chatenoy 

3 Mirccourt 

2i Darnieutle —A third horse, during 
the six winter months, going and 
returning. 

1 4 Epinal 

2 ' Xertigny— A third horse, throughout 
the year, going and returning. 

14 Plotnbieres —A third horse, through- 

_the year, going and returning. 

514 posts. 

Plombi&res, seated on the river 
Angronne, between two steep hills, 
and reputed to contain about 1,100 
inhabitants, is famed for its Warm 
Mineral Waters, and Baths. 

ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BARREGES. 

77 Bordeaux—See page 346, Appendix. 
1| Bouscaut— A third horse, during the 
six winter months, going and re¬ 
turning. 

1| Cast res 
i4 Cerons 

14 Langon —A third horse, duung the 
six winter months, going and re¬ 
turning. 

2 , Bazas —A third horse, throughout the 
year, going and returning. 

24 Captieux—A third horse, throughout 
the year, going and returning. 

2 Poteau —A third and fourth horse, 

throughout the year, going and 
returning. 


24 Roquefort —A third horse, during the 
six winter months, going and 
returning. 

2 Villeneuve-de-Marsan —A third and 
fourtli horse, throughout the year, 
going and returning. 

24 Aire —A third horse, throughout the 
year, going and returning. 

2 Gar tin —A third horse, throughout 

the year, going and returning, 

14 Auriac —A third horse, throughout 
the year, going and returning. 

24 Pau—A third horse, throughout the 
year, going and returning. 

Pau, the birth-place of Henry IV., of 
France, is supposed to contain 
about 9,000 inhabitants. 

3 Lestelle —A third horse, throughout 

the’year, going and returning. 

2 Lourdes 

24 Pierrefttte—A third horse, through¬ 
out'the year, going, but not re¬ 
turning. 

2 Lux—A. third and fourth horse, 
throughout the year, going and re¬ 
turning. 

1 Barreges—A third and fourth horse, 
throughout the year, going and re- 
turning. 

1234 posts. 

Barrages, situated in a moun¬ 
tainous country, and containing 
about 700 inhabitants, has long 
been famed for the efficacy of its 
Mineral Waters, in diseases of the 
liver, rheumatic complaints, and 
gunshot wounds: and not far fiom 
this town is Bagnires de Bigorre , 
seated on the river Adouv ; and ce¬ 
lebrated for its Mineral M aters and 
Warm Baths ; which were held in 
high estimation by the ancient Ro¬ 
mans, and still retain their celebrity. 

Spring and autumn are the sea¬ 
sons when Invalids frequent Bar¬ 
rages, and Bagndres. 



SUPPLEMENT TO THE APPENDIX. 


GERMANY. 

Persons who travel, with their 
own carriage, in those parts of Ger¬ 
many where the roads are rough, 
and the ruts deep, should be careful 
have their axle-trees precisely 
th_ same length with those of post¬ 
carriages belonging to the country. 

ROUTE FROM INSPRUC'K TO MU¬ 
NICH. 

14 Seefeld 

15 Mittenwald 
15 tVallensee 

1 a Benedictbeuern 

2 Wolfratshausen 
2 Munich 

10 posts. 

ROUTE FROM MUNICH TO RATIS- 
BON. 

5 Garching 
1| Frising 
I . Mospurg 
1 Land shut 
15 Ergolspach 
l Buch-huusen 
1 Eglofsheim 
I Ratisbon 


8^ posts. 

ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO BAY¬ 
REUTH. 

Stanholtz 
I h Schivandorff 
Amberg 
1 Hambach 
1J Kirchen-Tumbach 
i Creissen 
I Bayreuth 

9 posts. 

ROUTE FROM BAYREUTH TO LEIP¬ 
ZIG. 

L Berneck 
1 Moncliberg 
I Hoff 
1J Plauen 
l£ Reichenbach 
1 Zwickau 
lj Gosnitz 
Pima 


l£ Leipzig 


ll£ posts. 

ROUTE FROM LEIPZIG, THROUGH 
WITTENBERG, TO BERLIN. 

2 D'uben 
2 Wittenberg 
1 Grobstadt 
1 Treuenbrietzen 
1 Bielitz 

1 Saarmund —As Saarmund is not al- 
. ways well provided with post- 

horses, Travellers usually prefer 
going from Bielitz to Potzdam. 

1 Teltoio 

1 Berlin 

10 posts. 

ROUTE FROM LEIPZIG, THROUGH 
DESSAU, TO BERLIN. 

2 Holzweissig 

1^ Dessau—This town contains about 8,000 
inhabitants ; and is adorned with 
a Bridge thrown over the Elbe. 

I Coswig 
1 Postorf 

Treuenbriezen 
1 Bielitz 

1 Potzdam—This town contains near 
30,000 inhabitants ; and among the 
objects usually visited by Travellers 
are, its Royal Chdteau—Long 
Bridge—Church dedicated to the 
Holy Ghost—Church of St. Ni¬ 
cholas—Church frequented by 
the Court and Garrison— and the 
Roman Catholic Church , embel¬ 
lished with Paintings by Pesne. 

1 Zelilendorf 
I Berlin 

10| posts. 

ROUTE FROM BERLIN TO DRES¬ 
DEN. 

IJ Mittenwald 
14 Baruth 
l| Luckau 
1 Sonnenwald 
Elsterwerda 

1 Grossenliayn 

2 Dresden 

10 posts. 


ADDITION to the ERRATA. 

Page 312, lines 8, 9, and 10, first column, instead of Text, read ; The 
vulgar tongue, in Bohemia and part of Moravia, is a dialect of 
the Sclavonic. 








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